Issue No. 218 Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO City prepares Master Tech-savvy YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 for a month shoemaker Tesla-inspired [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 of New Year’s reboots the play premieres BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 celebrations family business in Belgrade

Page 5 Page 6 Page 13 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Serbian Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Brawling MPs leave EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser savers - - - Serbs feeling shamed keepNEWS faith with

Serbia’s parliament NEWS is turning into a banks and

bear pit, marked by “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: property party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. violent arguments, insults and curses Despite the

- leaving many dismally low page 10 citizens wondering interest rates on where this will all savings, most

end. hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

Serbs still keep a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Natalia ŽABA their spare cash in June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, n the month of November alone, the banks or invest Serbia’s parliament was the scene of a series of scandalous in real estate, page 5 events that saw ruling and oppo- sition MPs on the brink of coming partly because Ito blows. Debates on important laws as well as they fear – or do on the latest European Commission re- conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the port were marred by images shown live not know about – After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party on TV of MPs throwing insults, waving E pictures of belly dancers and cursing the alternatives. one another. While MPs from all parties trade blame over who provokes such inci- Stevan

VELJOVIĆFriday • June 13 2008 dents, ordinary people are becoming DISCLAIMER ever more disillusioned in their repre- In the previous issue of Belgrade Insight, published on No- or most Serbs with cash, sentatives. vember 18th, the photo caption on the front page incorrectly analysts say, keeping stated that the person in the image was Serbian Prime Minis- ter Aleksandar Vučić, when it was Aleksandar Đorđević, the their money safe is far THIS ISSUE OF Continued on pages 2 and 3 head of the Security Information Agency, or BIA. more important than Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED The president of the assembly, Maja Gojković. Photo: Beta making potential gains. on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic That is why holding which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T savingsF in banks and in real estate is still preferred to riskier alternatives, or to alternatives that require a deeper Puhalo: Bosnian Salafists’ knowledge of financial services. The stock market in Serbia offers few opportunities for the average investor terror tag is ‘malicious’ due to the perception of high risk. Other alternatives, such life insur- After spending two months with members habis and Salafis. They simply call This hardline Muslim movement, ance policies and pension and invest- themselves ‘Muslims,’” Puhalo said. a fundamentalist strain of Islam that ment funds are also still in develop- of the Salafi movement in Bosnia, social Puhalo conversed over lunch with adheres strictly to the Prophet Mu- ment as attractive option for people Salafis in Maglaj. In Ključ, a Salafi fam- hammad’s teachings, has been feared seeking to profit from their savings. psychologist Srđan Puhalo says it is time ily welcomed him into their home. In in Bosnia since the 1990’s war, but has One secure but low-yield alternative to stop demonizing the community as Sarajevo, he enjoyed a risotto with 20 recently become notorious throughout to savings is state securities, which are a Salafi members. In Ošve, they took Europe after a number of its followers common choice for institutional inves- terrorists. selfies together. In Maglaj, he attended left to fight in Syria and Iraq. tors, such as banks, insurance compa- a Jumu'ah, a regular Friday congrega- But Puhalo says the fear of Bosnian nies and private pension funds. Maja GARAČA ĐURĐEVIĆ Ključ, Ošve and Maoča - into a land- tional prayer. Salafis is largely misplaced. “People at- mark book, “Salafis in Bosnia and Her- “I have to disappoint you – I didn’t tribute negative characteristics to this SAFETY FIRST, PROFIT SECOND leading Bosnian social zegovina”. meet a single terrorist,” Puhalo said. community, so any mention of Salafis psychologist has turned Srđan Puhalo’s aim was to collect as The idea that Salafis threaten Bos- arouses fear and suspicion. Accom- In October, Serbian citizens kept a the two months he spent much information on them as possible nia’s national security is wrong, Puhalo panied with biased media reporting, total of about 1,100 billion dinars [€8.97 meeting 130 Bosnian and enable Bosnians to see beyond the told BIRN. it leads to a perception that Salafis are billion] of savings in banks, more than members of the Salafi terrorist tag that Salafis are often land- Ignorance, fear, media reporting, gen- eager to blow themselves up and kill in 95 per cent of which is held in foreign movementA - in the municipalities of ed with, he told BIRN in an interview. eral insecurity and the closed nature of acts of terror. currency. Jablanica, Sarajevo, Zenica, Maglaj, “This is not a book about Salafism. It the Salafi community all affect people’s Bočinja, Tuzla, Gračanica, Sanski Most, is about the people referred to as Wah- perception of them, he said. Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Brawling MPs leave Serbs feeling shamed

and overruled by the majority in the as- people who think differently,” Božović sembly. said. “There has always been a mess there, The recent scenes from parliament but it was never as bad as it is now,” he represent “a total defeat of our nation,” said. “Society feels bitter about this he continued. situation. I haven’t met one person who “If minority thinking … doesn’t exist would say they are happy about it.” even in the parliament, it doesn’t exist at all. There’s a dreadful atmosphere CURRENT SITUATION there, with no space for discussion,” he WORSE THAN FARCE concluded. Zoran Stojiljković, professor of po- Ratko Božović, professor of sociol- litical sociology at Belgrade University’s ogy in Podgorica, Montenegro and for- Faculty of Political Sciences, said that mer chair at the Faculty of Political Sci- some parliamentarians respect the re- ence in Belgrade, says the word “farce” sponsibility that comes with the post. hardly fits the present situation of Ser- But the others saw their time there bia’s parliament. only as an opportunity to fight for pow- “A farce provokes laughter and joy, er. but here, if we analyse this situation, “This second group doesn’t like inde- there’s no space for such a thing,” he pendent institutions or different think- said. ing and see no problem in autocratic “It has long been clear that our parlia- employment – ‘I can do what I want’ is ment is not a safe place for critical and their credo,” Stojiljković said. intellectual reasoning and with equal- According to him, people are becom- ity for all those in it,” he added. ing more and more tired of “cheap dem- Božović said that those who are al- agogy”, however, which only a minority ready pushed to the margins in public appreciates. life and in the government-backed me- “Most citizens expect MPs to behave dia are additionally marginalised in better than the average man, and dis- parliament as well. approve of inappropriate behaviour,” Opposition parties have long com- Stojiljković observed. plained that they do not a get fair share Bozović has no faith that parliament of space in the media and public to pre- will turn into an arena where MPs de- sent their standpoints. bate decently in the best interests of the “They are a constant object of criti- country and the people. cism, just like all the other minorities. “The situation might change some- It is hard to say whether they [the rul- time, but at the moment this “some- ing parties] are just creating a desirable time” seems like it will never happen,” image of society or [just wish to] terrify he concluded. Zoran Stojiljković. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade

Marijan Rističević. Photo: Beta

xperts say the lack of se- The meeting ended in insults and “This is an authentic photograph. Earlier still in the month, on Novem- postponed due to objections from both rious debates between with one opposition Radical Party MP, This is the reason for domestic vio- ber 10th, the head of the EU Delegation to the Radical Party and from the nation- politicians holding dif- Nemanja Šarović, shouting: “Shame on lence,” Rističević said, waving the print. Serbia, Michael Davenport, was unable alist movement Dveri, who insisted on ferent views reflects the you, he [Martinović] is crazy”! When a wife sees such evidence, she to present the EU report on Serbia’s pro- the report being written in Serbian, not lack of room generally While all the opposition parties invariably wants revenge on her hus- gress to parliament following objections English. for critical voices to ex- criticised Martinović for this fracas, he band and turns violent, he added. from right-wing opposition parties. Epress themselves freely in Serbia. blamed the opposition MPs for alleged- Tatjana Macura, from the opposi- “Davenport has no right to partici- PEOPLE FEEL DISAPPOINTED They also believe the rowdy scenes ly trying to “destroy the credibility and tion party Enough Is Enough, censured pate in the work of this Board. However, BUT IMPOTENT in parliament are undermining demo- dignity” of parliament, denying that he Rističević with the words, “Shame on he could be called to the special ses- cratic and moral standards in the coun- stopped MPs seeking to speak. you.” sion of parliament,” Radical MP Marko When BIRN questioned passers-by try, and fear parliament is being used as Earlier, on November 16th - ironically But then she received a warning Šarović said. in Belgrade about the events, they saw a mere stage for the ruling majority. the International Day of Tolerance - a about her words from the president He and other Radical MPs also said no excuses for the MPs concerned, and In the current parliament, elected debate on draft laws and amendments of the assembly, Maja Gojković, who Davenport could not take up a seat re- many had only bitter comments to in April, the ruling Serbian Progressive to laws on fighting organized crime and defended her Progressive Party col- served for the Chairman of the Board, make about the state of one of the coun- Party and its minor coalition partners corruption and domestic violence also league. and should be seated in the gallery of try’s most important institutions. hold 131 of the 250 seats. The main jun- ended in a near-brawl. “There’s no greater illustration of vio- the parliament as a guest. Belgrader Nenad Živanović said par- ior partner in the ruling coalition, the The atmosphere was tense by noon lence against women than this [the one Eventually, the session of the parlia- liamentarians wantonly abuse their Socialist Party of Serbia, has 29 seats. but worsened after Vojislav Šešelj, head that Rističević showed] where food is ment's Board for EU Integration was positions but are never sanctioned for of the far-right Serbian Radical Party, served on naked their misbehaviour. SESSIONS TURN took the floor. women’s bodies “They misuse their positions and INCREASINGLY WILD Initially, the arguments concerned and money is It has long been I’ve lost my trust completely, but I am Šešelj and Zoran Živković, head of an- put in their not interested in following what hap- The unruly behaviour of deputies other opposition formation, the New bra,” Gojković clear that our pens there every day because I don’t in Serbia’s parliament has made head- Party. opined. want to waste my energy on it,” this lines in the media several times in the While Živković told Šešelj, “Shame Gojković parliament is not 50-year-old told BIRN. last month. on you,” the leader of the Radicals re- later claimed A secretary who asked not to be On November 24th, a session of the sponded threateningly: “If I come over that she saw a safe place for named said she felt ashamed to have parliament’s administrative committee there, you’ll be silenced.” Macura spit at Rističević, which the MP to witness such behaviour. almost ended in a punch-up. After a five-minute break intended to denied. critical and intel- “It’s savage behaviour but I don’t This occurred after the chair of the calm the atmosphere, another incident Two days later, Rističević triggered know what could stop it,” the 42-year- committee, Aleksandar Martinović, soon followed. another row by commenting on Twit- lectual reasoning old said, adding that she would gladly from the ruling Progressives, refused to Marijan Rističević , another deputy, ter about the funding of expensive take part in peaceful protests against allow opposition MPs to speak, ignor- took out an old photograph of opposi- medical care for the child of an opposi- and with equality such actions. ing their raised hands. tion Democratic Party member Dragan tion Democratic Party MP. Petar Nikolić, who works at a book- Aleksandra Jerkov, from the opposi- Šutanovac in an unknown bar with His controversial claim that the Dem- for all those in it.” store in the centre of Belgrade, says tion Democratic Party, said Martinović women dancing around him. ocrats deliberately refused to allow the that as an activist, he already takes clearly pretended not to see opposi- The problem of domestic violence, Serbian state to pay for the child’s treat- part in peaceful protests against main- tion deputies, while Progressive MPs according to Rističević , needed to be ment - in order to make political capital Ratko Božović, stream political culture. followed Martinović’s order to vote de- discussed with the aid of such visual out of the case and raise more money professor of Nikolić said it was disturbing that spite objections from the other parties. materials. - generated anger and disgust. sociology the minority was routinely humiliated 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Belgrade to honour slain PM Zoran Đinđić, the Serbian Prime Minister assassinated in March 2003, will finally be commemorated with a monument in downtown Belgrade.

Ivana NIKOLIĆ reconstruction of the city centre. His plan was immediately accepted by the city’s memorial commission. he monument will be Members of the Belgrade City Assem- located at the Student bly adopted a decision to erect a Đinđić Square on Vasina Street, monument after Serbia’s current PM Alek- across the monument sandar Vučić announced in late May that dedicated to Petar II a memorial would be erected by 2018, the Petrović Njegoš, a 19th cen- 15th anniversary of Đinđić’s assassination. Ttury prince-bishop and renowned poet, However, Vučić’s plan caused a storm the City of Belgrade confirmed in a written within Đinđić's old party, which called the response to BIRN. gesture inappropriate. Key members of The statue will be placed between the the Democratic Party said Vučić stood for Faculty of Philosophy where the assassi- very different values than Đinđić. nated PM was educated, the University of "It is very rude and disgusting of Alek- Belgrade building and the Student Square St sandar Vučić, after all his statements about Đinđić was killed on March 12th, 2003. Photo: Beta number 10, where Đinđić spent much of his Đinđić, to announce that he will raise the life. That part of the downtown Belgrade is monument to him," the chairman of the ber of the Democratic Party and one-time in front of his office on Belgrade’s Neman- war-crimes charges, incurring the lasting slated for reconstruction and Vasina Street Belgrade City Board of the Democratic chief of staff in Đinđić's cabinet, accused jina Street on March 12th, 2003. Jovanović enmity of hard-line nationalists. will become a pedestrian zone. An existing Party, Balša Božović, told BIRN in May. the Democrats of making a political issue was jailed for 40 years in May 2007 for the Although it started out as a right-wing trolley turnaround is to be removed. "Vučić will never understand the poli- out of the planned monument. murder. nationalist party, Vučić’s Progressives Apart from honouring him with a cies and ideas of Zoran Đinđić, nor the ep- “Instead of publicly supporting the idea Đinđić was among the 13 founders of have since adopted many of Đinđić's key monument, Đinđić’s apartment may also och which he marked," he added, noting of Prime Minister Zoran Đinđić getting a the Democratic Party, which spearheaded policies, especially concerning Serbia's EU Belgrade streets are already shining. Photo: BIRN/Ivana Nikolić become part of his legacy, some Serbian that "an initiative to build a monument to monument in Belgrade, they are making a revolt against the regime of Slobodan destiny. media reported. commemorate ten years since the murder it a political issue - and only because they Milošević in October 2000. He became Vučić is now an ardently pro-EU The idea to place the memorial in of Đinđić was rejected by Vučić and his were not able to build a monument to him Prime Minister in 2001. politician, claiming to be dedicated to downtown Belgrade was proposed by the Serbian Progressive Party." while they were in power,” Vesić said. After coming to office, he played a -piv reconciliation in the region and has architect Boris Podreka, who was hired However, a senior official from the Pro- Zvezdan Jovanović, a member of “Ze- otal role in the arrest and extradition of distanced himself from his former hard- by the Belgrade authorities to work on the gressive Party, Goran Vesić, a former mem- mun” criminal clan, shot PM Đinđić dead Milošević to The Hague Tribunal to face line views. City prepares for a month of

Ivana NIKOLIĆ The plan to return trams to city square. Work on the fountain is sup- streets is part of the city’s current posed to begin over the weekend, City centre Belgrade City Manager Goran Vesić huge revamp, which also includes officials said. New Year’s celebrations announced plans to re-install the the long-awaited reconstruction Vesić said that the installation of th historical tram line 1 – which first of the Belgrade’s busiest square, tram lines will come in the second to get “19 started operating in 1892 – to connect Slavija. phase of reconstruction, but did not Some events have already started, and 1980s. The organisers also an- and will offer many other things such SANTA RACE Slavija Square and Kalemegdan Park. The monument to late Serbian and say exactly when that would be. Once As 2017 like the 'Open Heart Square,' a Christ- nounced a so-called musical castle at as sport events, concerts and DJs. The proposed tram will travel through Yugoslav socialist Dimitrije Tucović, the works are over, Kralja Milana St will mas fair, which opened on December the Tašmajdan Park. Belgrade’s ninth traditional race of century look” approaches, st st Kralja Milana Street, Terazije and Re- which stood in the middle of the be available only for trams, taxis and 1 and will run through February 1 . SAVA RIVER PROMENADE Santa Clauses takes place on December public Square, all the way down to the square for decades, has recently been pedestrians. the City of Republic Square is now covered with FAIRYTALES SQUARE 25th in downtown Belgrade. According Kalemegdan, Vesić said. removed. While his remains are to be Tram line number 1 was the very mini wooden houses selling various One of the most beloved river banks to organisers, there will be a total of As part of a revamp, Belgrade “Trams fit in the concept of the pe- reburied in the Alley of the Great in first line of the public transportation Belgrade’s plans holiday souvenirs, jewellery, orna- This kids-oriented show kicks off on in Belgrade will host a bunch of New 3,000 Santas running or simply walking destrian zone [throughout the route], mid-December, a new statue honour- system in Belgrade, which kicked ments, toys, food and beverage as well December 15th and ends on January Year’s-related events from December down Kralja Milana Street. Under the downtown Kralja Milana St will get and [they] will bring back to Terazije ing him is supposed to be located in the off as early as 1892. Back then, eight for welcoming as sweets. 15th, 2017. It will take place at the pla- 16th till February 15th aimed at adults slogan “Santa Clauses Bestow Lives” the magnificent look it lost 70 years park near the National Bank of Serbia horse-drawn trams connected Slavija Every Saturday and Sunday teau in front of the Cultural Institution and children, including concerts, there will also be voluntary blood tram lines reminiscent of the late ago when the rails were removed and building on Slavija. and Kalemegdan. However, in 1947 the the New Year throughout December, the Children’s Vuk Stefanović Karadžić at Bulevar humanitarian actions, fireworks, vari- donation. the trolleys installed,” the city manager Instead of Tucović’s statue, a huge trams were replaced by the current Cultural Centre will perform theatre Kralja Aleksandra 77a St. The House of ous competitions and distribution of 1890s, officials promised. recently told the media. fountain will sit in the middle of the trolley system. range from open- plays and various other programmes Fairytales offers children the opportu- Christmas gifts. NEW YEAR’S EVE for the youngest Belgraders. Organisers nity to see and hear Serbian national air skate rinks have also announced the sale of New fairytales as well as famous fables writ- KIDS’ NEW YEAR The main celebration ringing in 2017 Year’s cups with all the revenue going ten by the Brothers Grimm. The spot will take place on December 30th-31st in and concerts to charity. will also host a small puppet theatre as This free event runs from December front of the National Parliament, also the If you are in Belgrade over the well as stands featuring classic Serbian 16th-30th at the Belgrade Fair. It includes site of the entire “Belgrade Winter” mani- to the now- holidays, don’t miss the traditional craftworks. as many as 39 different programmes festation. On December 30th you can If a picture is worth a thousand breaking of česnica, a homemade loaf including 11 theatre plays, 18 musicals, expect the famed Yugoslav rock band words,imagine the full 27 experience traditional Santa with a coin baked inside, which will 'OPEN HEART STREET' and eight so-called Gala New Year’s Bijelo Dugme to perform along with folk take place at the 'Open Heart Square' programmes with famous actors, star Aca Lukas, while on the last evening race through the on Orthodox Christmas, January 7th. Traditionally, this humanitarian hosts, singers, choirs, ballet troops and of 2016 rock bands Bajaga i Instruktori And don’t skip the celebration of the event is aimed at the youngest citizens. orchestras. and Plavi Orkestar will perform. capital. Orthodox (or Serbian) New Year on It will take place on January 1st and turn January 13th, happening in front of the Svetogorska Street all the way down to Old Palace building in central Belgrade. Strahinjića Bana Street into an open air carnival for parents and children. Apart ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Restoran 27 ICE@TAŠ at Tašmajdan from the centre of Belgrade, 'Open Heart ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Istarska 27, Senjak Ivana NIKOLIĆ Street' will also be present at several RESTAURANT KOVAČ 011/2651831; 060/3692079 A Winter Festival called “Ice@Taš“ other municipalities: Čukarica, Rakovica, modern ethno restaurant [email protected] nder the name runs from December 15th to February Surčin, Mladenovac, Obrenovac and www.restoransezam27.rs “Belgrade Winter” or 15th, 2017, and promises fun for ice- Savski Venac. Beogradska Zima, skating enthusiasts. Ice-skating at the a month-long New Tašmajdan sports centre will be free NIKOLA PAŠIĆ Year’s party officially during certain skating sessions. There OPEN-AIR SKATING kicks off on Decem- will also be a music programme every Uber 15th and ends on January 15th, day along with shows for kids, includ- In one of the city’s longest running New 5% discount with some events extending well into ing magicians. Year’s events, a traditional skating rink if you bring along a copy of Belgrade Insight February, the Tourist Organisation of Every Friday there will be “Retro opens on December 15th and runs until Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com Belgrade, TOB, recently announced. Party Night“ with themes from 1970s February 1st. The rink is open every day 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS Master Continued from page 1 shoemaker Serbian savers keep faith reboots with banks and property he low interest rates of the key "Bigger investors have always invested banks in the world have, how- part of their money in real estate, and today ever, lowered the interest rates it is the same case," he explained. the family on loans and savings in Serbia When banks become far safer as places as well. to keep money than increase its value, peo- TOver the last three years, the interest ple seek other alternatives as well. rates for loans fell to 4.4 per cent for loans in Those inclining to more secure invest- business euros and 8.8 per cent for loans in dinars on ments might be tempted to put their cash average, which is 10.1 per cent and 2.8 per in state bonds, which are the safest invest- cent lower than the 2013 rates respectively. ment of all, albeit with correspondingly low around the Belgrade neighbourhood of While the result is cheaper loans, the in- yields. Fed up with just Karaburma. terest rates have also dropped on deposits, For example, the yield on one-year state The snug workshop is separated into meaning smaller earnings for those who securities is below 1 per cent, and 3.6 per fixing shoes, two parts: a room where Bane makes keep their money in the banks. cent on the same securities held in the na- veteran cobbler shoes in the traditional way, and a room Interest rate for savings in euros dropped tional currency. where his son, and heir to the Bane from around 3 per cent in 2013 to only 0.6 "These yields are low but they are still Branislav Stajić shoe empire, learns the craft. per cent in 2016. For deposits held in dinars, slightly higher compared to savings in "My son is taking over the shoe re- the rates fell from 7-11 per cent in 2013 to banks," Gujaničić noted. decided to pair shop. He was unemployed like only 3.1 per cent today. Grubišić said investors today have more many young people here, and this job Although most people hold their savings possibility to choose among securities, but resurrect classic guarantees him existence and inde- in foreign currencies, Zoran Grubišić, pro- with lower yields. pendence," Bane says as we enter his fessor at the Belgrade Banking Academy, Between 2002 and 2004, earnings of shoemaking part of the workshop, proud of the fact says dinar savers are better off. up to 15 or even 20 per cent were available that his son, now in his twenties, is the "The inflation rate in the last three years from trading in foreign currency savings techniques fourth generation of the shoe-loving was 2 to 2.5 per cent, and the projection bonds, he recalled. and teach the family. for 2017 and 2018 is 1.5 per cent," he noted. "Today, government securities issued for The tiny room is cluttered with "With low inflation, the only remaining financing the budget deficit and state debts traditional shoes: old, new and unfinished ones, Bane started his own shoe repair shop in 1985. Photo: BIRN/Ivana Nikolić risk is a change in the exchange rate, and have lower, but still stable, yields," he noted. templates for shoemaking, machines, with low and stable inflation [rates] in the "However, it is possible to diversify the methods to various working equipment and black GETTING BACK TO BASICS took up the shoemaking lessons. Every nice things. It all depends on the overall eurozone, there is no reason for dramatic investment … to include, for example, three- and white photos of his family mem- student has a specific reason for taking political and economic situation in the changes," Grubišić said. year securities in dinars or euros." others – an idea bers. It is nice and cosy, and smells like After years of only doing repairs, classes, the master adds. country, he claims. With interest rates on bank savings fall- The yields on three-year securities on re- leather and glue. Bane admits that he got sick and tired of "My last student was a mechanical "For me it is the best when the living ing significantly in recent years, more peo- cent auctions were around 2.5 cent for euro that’s proved "My grandfather got his shoe repair fixing other people's shoes. He needed engineer working for a foreign compa- standard is high." ple are turning to real estate, which has long securities and around 5 per cent for those surprisingly education even before World War II, something else, a pursuit that would ny, who has a very good salary and who While the end of 1980s – when he been an option for savers in Serbia. held in the national currency. and he started working after the war make him feel happy and alive. So, simply came here to learn how to make opened up his business – was the best "With lower interest rates in the banks, Serbian citizens kept a total of about 1,100 billion dinars [€8.97 billion] of savings in banks. Photo: Beta popular. ended," Bane explains, adding that his three or four years ago he decided to shoes. He is interested in everything of times, he recalls that 1993 with its hy- real estate this year has again become RETURN OF father also followed in his father's steps. start making shoes on his own. – shoes design, template production, perinflation was by far the worst year attractive for depositors holding higher OPTIMISM UNLIKELY "Apart from the risks common for any As Gujaničić points out, apart from de- "Pension and investment funds are the "So, I grew up in a workshop and "I saw all over the Internet that shoe- sewing and putting it all together in the for him and his business. amounts in banks," Nenad Gujaničić, a bro- stock market, our stock market is known posits, the other investment alternatives smallest financial institutions in the domes- I learned how to do it [repair shoes]. making is popular and well-paid world- end," Bane says. "The prices changed constantly and ker from Wise Broker agency said. Experts agree that Serbia's financial mar- for its small turnover and poor protection are all underdeveloped. tic financial market, while insurance com- Ivana NIKOLIĆ But, I was not really into the craft," the wide. And I neglected that [custom "His motive is his love for shoes and people could barely make ends meet. Srđan Vujičić, director of the property ket is unlikely to see a return of the kind of of minority shareholders," he noted. The total insurance premium at the end panies have failed to gain a more significant master says, arguing he had no plans shoe making] because I thought no one the fact that he wants to be able to make Some of my clients would bring me sacks company Real Estate Operations of Core- the optimism that was typical of the years "This means that when investing, in ad- of second quarter of 2016 was 45,2 billion place in the market with their services," ocated near the Sinđelić of pursuing the family business as a is interested in it anymore," Bane says. a pair for himself," Bane adds. of potatoes, pens and planners as they side, says his company had recently in- before the global financial crisis. dition to the usual things, the investor must dinars [€366 million], which was 9.9 per Gujaničić said. Football Club at Vojislava young man. Even though his new vocation is only There is also one younger man who had no money to pay me," he recalls. creased its activities in finding new real "The peak of optimism was in 2007, pay attention to the character of the majority cent higher compared to the year before. Like the stock market, investment Ilića 82 Street, "Obućar But he had no other option but to be- getting started- clients for customized is a bookkeeping boss at a Belgrade- Back in 1993, Bane admits he had to estate, mostly shops, for known customers. when investment funds started to operate, owner or the dominant shareholder," he said. However, while the share of life insur- funds are also stagnant. The most promi- Bane," or Shoemaker come a shoe repair master due to his shoes are still hard to come by- he says based company who loved the course. buy materials at junk yards as there "The rate of return on real estate is higher the stock market reached its maximum Grubišić agreed that while there is no ance as a form of personal savings in the to- nent funds invest in deposits and the Bane, is easy to find. A poor performance at school, he admits. he is enthusiastic and plans on tireless- "For them, making a shoe is like a were no other places apart from those. "I than the bank interest rates," he noted. value, and when 20,000 to 30,000 peo- magic cure for the stock market, it could be tal premium increased to 22 per cent, it was money market. "There are not many qual- sign reading "OBUĆAR" However, right after he finished ly pursuing his dream. It takes about dream come true. They are truly happy would buy soles from military boots and "Such things don't happen for one reason ple [in Serbia] engaged in trading shares," revitalized by possible involvement from still lower than mandatory car insurance, ity alternatives for investments right now," Lsights on the huge fence separating a schooling and got his shoe repair de- four or five days to finish a single pair of and amazed with what they've done," tracks' tires and use them," Bane claims. but for a number of reasons," he added. "For Gujaničić recalled. major companies such as Telekom or EPS. for example, at 32,4 per cent. Gujaničić conceded. private yard from the noisy intersec- gree, Bane got his very first job. tailor-made shoes, the master explains, Bane claims. While it did get better sometimes example, the stock market [in Serbia] barely The financial crisis that followed un- The challenge in strengthening the fi- The net assets of all private pension "For example, we don't have the oppor- tion. Upon entering, I easily spot Bran- "Back then, a job was waiting for you and the average price is around €140. "I feel fulfilled when they [his stu- in the mid-1990s, the master says the exists and is not developed, while gold and masked all the deficiencies of the local nancial market is both on the demand and funds in Serbia are 30.7 billion dinars [€249 tunity to invest in the corporate bonds of islav Bane Stajić, a man in his fifties, ap- when you finish education. I spent 12 But apart from making shoes on his dents] are happy." tough times are back again. other valuables are not always available," market, however, including the low level of supply side. million], but the clients of these funds make the best domestic companies, which would proaching me with a huge smile. years working for Belgrade Shoes In- own, Bane also decided to offer public "It indeed is bad now. Now people said Vujučić, adding that lack of knowledge protection of minority shareholders as well On the demand side, most people do not up less than 10 ten per cent of all workers. give higher yields than state securities," he His workshop shares the yard with dustry," he recalls. shoemaking lessons and the turnout GOOD AND BAD TIMES have to choose whether to buy bread or trust in intermediary agencies might as corporate scandals. have sufficient knowledge about possible Also, of a total number of over 185,000 noted. his family home and has been here When the company started collaps- was a bit unexpected. A lot of elderly, or fix shoes. Of course they will go for play a role in investors' caution, too. Gujaničić argues that good money can options to invest their surplus cash, while clients, only a third of these are actually The offers on municipal bonds are not since 1985. Before that, the Stajić fam- ing, Bane decided to start his own shoe well-educated and financially well- During all these years, Bane admits bread; there is not much to think about," "But real estate is a more traditional, con- still be made on the Belgrade stock market, on the supply side, the main obstacle is paying their contributions regularly, and good, either, he added. "For example, the ily moved frequently a lot, mostly repair shop, a business that is still alive. situated people answered his call and he has seen it all – both nice and not-so- the master concludes. servative type of investment, which focuses as on any other market, but the investors the modest offer on the domestic financial the average size of their savings is only City of Belgrade never issued this kind of on low risk and on stability," Grubišić said. must be aware of the risks. market. 190,000 dinars [around €1,500]. securities," he explained.

ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight

LAZAR LUX APARTMENTS HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL Address: Stjepana Ljubiše 31 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Smetanina 12 MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA SKVER 44 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 Požeška 44a Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 Address: RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 INTERGALACTIC DINNER HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ĐORĐE Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 CAFE CAFFE LOUNGE Address: Moravska 10 Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85A Address: Vase Pelagića 48 CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac MIXER HOUSE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Karađorđeva 46 Address: Temišvarska 19 KOLARAC Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT PIZZERIA ALO-ALO KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Svetozara Markovića 19a Address: Cara Lazara 10 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 9 REGION FACES

Continued from page 1 Puhalo: Bosnian Salafists’ ‘Maths doesn’t have terror tag is ‘malicious’ all the answers’ ut this view of Salafis same opportunities as other citizens in Leading Serbian - and and Salafism is far Bosnia and Herzegovina. Realistically, from reality. It is not who would hire a Salafi and endure a world - mathematician honest and can even visit from SIPA every 10 days?” he said, be considered mali- referring to the intelligence agency. Stojan Radenović “Bcious,” the Banja Luka-based social psy- Salafis, on the other hand, under- chologist explained. stand the predicament employees find shrugs off awards Puhalo added that none of the Salafis themselves in. They are frustrated, but he met with justified the killing of civil- also aware that this is a consequence of as ‘nothing special’ ians or terrorism. the lifestyle they choose. Society functions and survives on In terms of the popular belief that and surprisingly the fear of “the other” and the different, Salafis in Bosnia are funded by Saudi he opines. Arabia to live within the guidelines of says having fun is “Serbs, Croats and Bosniaks once this ultra-conservative movement, Pu- used to cause fear. However, since they halo says he saw no evidence of this. more important than have become familiar, new groups are “When I asked them about this, they sought to keep society in fright,” he said. asked me to introduce them to these peo- crunching numbers. Puhalo warned also that by de- ple who are allegedly funding people to monizing the community, society risks wear the niqab and short pants, because pushing them deeper into isolation and they need the money. I did not get the im- towards extremism. pression that they have a lot of money or Natalia ŽABA Before setting out on his unusual that they are rich,” Puhalo said. journey, Puhalo admits he too knew Like many ordinary citizens in Bos- tojan Radenović, 68, a professor very little about the Salafis and their nia, they have to come up with ways to emeritus at Belgrade University’s version of Islam. earn money to support their families. Faculty of Engineering, is the only His colleagues told him he was em- Puhalo reiterated that it is important Serbian scientist included on the barking on an impossible feat. Some to learn about the Salafi community in Thomson Reuters list of “World's were appalled by the idea, and others Bosnia, and talk about them, but also to Most Influential Scientific Minds” and advised him to see a psychiatrist. listen to them. isS the author of more than 250 academic articles. “Today, I am immensely proud of the “You cannot have a discussion if you Although he agreed to speak with BIRN just one results of the research,” Puhalo said. consider the other side to be the enemy, day after his brother died, he was calm and col- To be accepted into their community, terrorists, and inferior, and if you belit- lected. Puhalo says he informed his exami- tle their choices,” Puhalo clarified. “My brother was old, to die is a normal thing, nees of his intentions from the onset. Looking back at the past few months, only you and young people give such a big mean- “I promised them that I would be he says it was more difficult to voice his ing to death,” he explains, as we walk to his small fair, would not be malicious, and that decision to write the book than to actually basement office. they would get the chance to talk work in the field and talk to these people. Inside, the room is dark. No natural light reaches about themselves anonymously,” he Puhalo concluded that his experi- down here, and piles of papers and books clut- explained. ence with Salafis has taught him to re- ter his desk. “My wife scolds me for the mess,” “It is important to note that I accepted Puhalo says the fear of Bosnian Salafis is largely misplaced. Photo: Courtesy of Srđan Puhalo act with great reservation to everything Radenović says. them for who they are and at no time that is said about the community. “To think about complicated theories, you have did I condemn them, or their way of terpretation of Islam. Of course they lent subject for [media] spin. With a few pray to and in which manner,” Puhalo “I am fully aware that among them to exclude yourself from the outside world,” he interpreting Islam. I was not there to differ from Bosnian Muslims in ap- good headlines on the Salafis, you can judged. there are all kinds of people, just like explains. While the “real world” is full of injustices, educate them or convert them,” Puhalo pearance, the way they dress and their always distract people’s attention from The moment they break the law they us. But I observe them primarily as peo- Radenović takes comfort from the world of math- added. attitude to women, but the essential real issues,” Puhalo noted. must face the consequences like all other ple and then as Salafis. I do not idealize ematics, which is governed by formulae and cer- Radenović likes to throw the rulebook out the window when it comes to his teaching style. Photo: BIRN/Natalia Žaba He found that although at first sight difference lies in their willingness to Because of this widespread fear, citizens, he reiterates, adding that the no- them, far from it, but I do not want to tain outcomes. “It’s closed they look different from the average subordinate their lives to Islam in a way about 40 per cent of Salafis say they tion that they live above the law is false. take part in their demonization”. but it’s full of elegance,” he “When I was a pupil, professors would exercise to struggle for material things and for wealth, but Bosnian citizens, they are beset by they feel is right,” he said. have been victims of verbal, emotion- “Children in Maoča go to school like In a short summary of his book, says. I personally feel very with us because they had love towards their subject to live fairly and freely. much the same problems as everyone People’s view of this community is al, physical or even sexual attacks, he all other children in BiH,” Puhalo de- Puhalo wrote: “The world is not black Born in 1948 in Dobra and pupils, and saw that we enjoyed this,” he says. “Humankind is greedy. And I’m greedy too,” he else. too often shaped by sensationalist me- found out. scribed, referring to one of their well- and white and we cannot ignore all the Voda, a small village in happy when my “Today many parents send their children for Ol- says. “[But] when I work on theorems and discover Salafis believe their practice of Islam dia reports, which portray Salafis as ter- Many have been arrested based on known bastions. shades of green that exist. I will always southern Serbia near ympiads and contests, but there’s no love in it, only the answer it makes me a better man.” is authentic, original and the only cor- rorists, religious fanatics and as people their looks, long beards and trimmed He added that due to the misconcep- defend their right to practice Islam in the border with Kosovo, students feel free to greed.” Radenović has just received confirmation that rect way to worship Allah. They behave who see themselves above the law, he pants, despite not having committed a tions surrounding their community, any way they wish, as long as it is their Radenović fondly re- Among the qualities that this grandfather to two he is going to remain on the Reuters list of the most in accordance with these teachings said. But, by allowing this, we are sub- crime. Salafis face obstacles in getting work, personal choice and as long as they members his birthplace swear in my presence young girls values most is modesty. influential scientific minds in the world for a sec- and, in doing so, differ from the Bosnian jecting ourselves to an obscure version “Does our fear of them, either objec- which adds to their isolation. A third of do not threaten my right to believe in as “probably the most beautiful place in Europe,” “I’m proud of my success, but I know that I’m ond year in a row. Muslim tradition that people are accus- of reality, he added. tive or subjective, give us the right to Bosnia’s Salafis are jobless, Puhalo’s re- something else, or not to believe at all. a quality that he believes stems in part from its re- and have an argument nothing special. There are a lot of people in the But, in keeping with his modesty, he shrugs off tomed to, Puhalo said. “It seems to me that they are an ex- carry out violence against them? As search shows. If and when they try to impose it on mote location and detachment from civilization. world who work more than I do,” he says. the honour as “nothing special”. “Their attitudes, behaviour and as- cellent scapegoat for everything that citizens of BiH they should have equal “They have to earn money to sur- me – in me they will find their biggest Like the mathematics professor who was born with me." According to the mathematics professor the key “Next time you come, we can talk about death,” ceticism can be explained by their in- is wrong in Bosnia. They are an excel- rights, regardless of which God they vive, but I'm not sure that they have the enemy.” there, Dobra Voda is said to possess extraordinary to success, happiness and motivation in life is not he suggests by way of a goodbye. qualities. Radenović claims that the ordinary rules of gravity are suspended on one small slope in the village for unknown reasons. “If you throw a ball, it will go uphill, not down!” he says, incredulously. pizzeria One of eleven children, Radenović was fasci- Although strict laws and formulae govern his Published by nated with mathematics from a young age. After field of study, Radenović likes to throw the rule- finishing his university studies, he worked first as book out the window when it comes to his teach- a teacher and then as a professor in Krajugevac ing style. before moving to Belgrade University in 2000. According to him, the key to success for a pupil caffe Radenović’s first work was published in 1976 is not to spend extra hours studying but to focus when he was just 28. Since then, he has written on having fun. He also says students should be A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO dozens of academic papers and been quoted in encouraged to criticise their fellows, teachers, and NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM the works of colleagues more than 3,000 times. parents. CONTENT It is partly as a result of Radenović’s work that “I personally feel very happy when my students IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE Belgrade University was included in the prestig- feel free to swear in my presence and have an ar- for in-depth analysis, ious Shanghai list of the world’s top 300 academic gument with me,” he says. investigative reports, institutions in 2016, the first time the university In another break with academic convention, features, interviews, had ever received such recognition. Radenović has opted not to join the Serbian Sci- commentary and profiles However, while the professor has spent most of ence Academy. on the latest business and his life in the world of numbers, he does not think “Many mathematicians don’t understand what political headlines. that mathematics can provide all the answers to life. maths really is. If the Serbian Academy wants WE DO CATERING FOR ALL KINDS OF CELEBRATIONS “We cannot explain the world. The sun and the me as a member, I can join it, but I won’t apply for stars have been present long before us,” he says. membership and allow them to vote on me,” he OTHER SERVICES: “For a long time we thought that the earth wasn’t says. Beograd,Svetozara Markovica 19a round, but now we say it’s round and even claim The professor is also critical of his fellow aca- tel. 011/3246 947,323 88 88 that it orbits around the sun!” he says, pointing out demics’ lack of passion for teaching their subject that people in science are often wrong. to the next generation. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY War tourism Science Festival: From flourishes Mars to the seafloor This year’s in Bosnian Science Festival creates a world capital where visitors can walk on Mars, As official figures show tourist numbers rising in Bosnia explore lost cities and Herzegovina, conflict-themed attractions in Sarajevo on the seafloor, like the War Hostel and Tunnel of Hope show that the telepathically 1992-95 siege continues to fascinate visitors. drive a Star Wars spaceship or Eleanor ROSE They are considered the first Sarajevo create music by victims of the siege, and this plaque is in mid a boom in tour- their memory. movement. ist numbers in Bos- nia, the country’s SARAJEVO’S ‘ROMEO wartime history AND JULIET’ has continued to at- tract and fascinate On the bank next to Vrbanja Bridge is Gordana ANDRIĆ visitors,A according to owner of Sarajevo's another famous site. War Hostel Arijan Kurbašić. It was on May 19th, 1993, that Admira he tenth annual interna- The War Hostel has recently captured Ismić and Boško Brkić tried to cross tional Science Festival media attention for offering an immer- Vrbanja Bridge – which by then was no- will be held at Belgrade sive experience simulating living condi- man’s-land – to reach Serb-occupied ter- Fair from December 15th tions during the siege of Sarajevo, which ritory in Grbavica. to 18th. Over the Festival’s ran from April 1992 to February 1996 The young couple, both 25, are known four days, visitors will as Bosnian Serb forces surrounded the as the Romeo and Juliet of Sarajevo be- Thave the opportunity to see 60 different city, bombarding civilians and cutting cause Ismić was a Bosnian Muslim and programmes showcasing the adventur- off supply lines. Brkić a Serb. ous side of science. At the hostel, the host – who goes by According to a report by Kurt Schork The festival gathers hundreds of scien- the code name Zero One – greets guests from Reuters news agency, sources on tists from different faculties and scientific in a military uniform. both the Bosnian Army and Serb side ac- institutions from across Serbia, as well as Rooms are lit by light bulbs run on car knowledged they had made agreements guests from abroad. Together, they will batteries, and a tape plays background to let the couple pass after 4pm. hold thousands of experiments, work- sounds of bombs falling all night long. It is not known who fired the shots that shops, lectures and science shows for The hostel, described by one traveller killed them. festivalgoers. on the reviews site Tripadvisor as "like The couple lay unmoved for eight This year, National Geographic will The festival gathers hundreds of scientists from different faculties and scientific institutions from across Serbia, as well as guests from abroad. Photo: Courtesy of Science Festival nothing I'd ever come across", opened in days since it was too dangerous to recov- present a virtual reality encounter with June last year and during the summer er their bodies. future travel to Mars. The interactive pres- Organisers announced that the first walk on Mars, virtual reality landing use to solve crimes and catch crimi- playground, guests can make differ- months this year was "pretty full", said The bullet-riddled building seen above entation allows guests to experience the two days of the festival will mainly be for on the planet and a place where they nals at a simulation of a crime scene. ent compositions by manipulating Kurbašić. has not yet been renovated. sensation of walking in Mars’ low gravity hosting group visits from schools across can take a photo in Mars look-alike light objects, movement which is then Official statistics show that in the atmosphere and offers a simulation of a the country, while December 17th and 18th ambient. December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm translated by a computer into different first nine months of 2016, there were BEEF STRIFE landing on the red planet. are reserved as family days. December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm sounds. 1,896,915 overnight stays by tourists in The Geological and Hydrometeoro- The Science Festival has grown every December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm Bosnia – a 10.8 percent increase on the The famous ‘Tunnel of Hope’ is about half a mile long. Photo: Flickr/Jennifer Boyer This monument, which has by now logical School Milutin Milanković and year. In 2015 it hosted about 28,000 peo- December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm FROM EQUATOR December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm same period in 2015. seen some wear and tear, was offered as Mining-Metallurgical Faculty will present ple, including 20,000 students from 350 TO NORTH POLE December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm The topic of Bosnian war of 1992 to THE OLD JEWISH CEMETERY for a novel by Peter Munch, reporter for calling Mladic a “war criminal” and say- an ironic thank-you from the citizens of an exhibition about the most dangerous elementary and high schools. ANIMALS’ ANATOMY 1995 – which fits into the genre of so- German daily Suddeutsche Zeitung. ing that it sent a “bad message”. Sarajevo for humanitarian aid products. places on earth for people to live, where If you have ever wondered how it physical- JEDI POWERS called ‘dark tourism’ – is a significant Sarajevo’s Jewish cemetery, the A plaque was placed in one of Sara- A humanitarian airlift to Sarajevo op- volcanoes are still active and devastating SCIENCE FESTIVAL The programme will present lectures ly feels to live in different parts of the world, draw, particularly for visitors from Eng- second-largest of its kind in Europe, is jevo’s narrow residential side-streets RESIN ROSES erated between July 3rd, 1993, and Janu- earthquakes, tornados and hurricanes HIGHLIGHTS on different animals and the simi- you’ll have the chance to feel it on your skin Those focused enough can try lish-speaking countries. perched part-way up Mount Trebević. by her family. It says: “Dear Nina, on this ary 9th, 1996, was the longest-running of are common. larities and differences of their bone during the Science Festival. There will be moving a hologram of a Star Wars Kurbašić said this strand of tourism Its vantage point over the front line street you went to school and from this Craters still scar the streets of Sarajevo, its kind in history. As this year marks the 160th anniversa- GRAND SCIENTIFIC structures with the help of different simulations of weather in equatorial, desert spaceship with the help of sensors had grown over time due to greater meant that during the war it was used as street you went in eternal peace. You will formed by the impact of mortar rounds. City residents, however, say the food ry of Nikola Tesla’s birth, the Science Fes- LASER SHOW life-size skeletons, including those of a and sub-polar climate zones. placed on their heads. If that turns awareness and openness about the an artillery position by Bosnian Serbs. live in our minds.” Marks from explosions that resulted in was sometimes years out of date and tival will have several exhibits highlight- horse and a lion. out to be too demanding, you can use topic. Through the gates is a clear view to deaths were famously filled with red res- tasted disgusting. ing his significant and influential body of Visitors to the laser show are treated to December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm your brain waves to try to move little “The more time passes, the easier it the Holiday Inn – where foreign journal- COMMEMORATING in by artists and called ‘Sarajevo roses’. The plaque on this sculpture, raised work. onstage physics experiments, includ- December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm plush ears. gets for people to talk about it,” Kurbašić ists holed up during the siege – and the MLADIĆ Estimates suggest that on average, 300 in 2007 and known as the ICAR Canned Visitors will have the chance to virtu- ing breaking a wine glass with sound December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm told BIRN. parliament building, which was famous- shell rounds were fired into the city per Beef Monument, says it is from the “grate- ally enter Tesla’s world just by sitting in 4D waves and creating explosions with ALL THE COLOURS OF December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm According to him, to avoid giving ly pictured in flames after being hit by This plaque, in the Vraca neighbour- day during the war. ful citizens of Sarajevo”. special chairs that will instantly take them simple chemical combinations. The SECRETS OF THE SEA PHYSICAL CHEMSTRY December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm subjective impressions, a tour operator tank fire. hood above Sarajevo, on territory that More than 35,000 buildings were de- According to Reuters, Dunja Blažević back in time to stand next to Tesla in his show finishes with a spectacular light must be thoroughly informed and avoid This cemetery, which serves as the fi- lies inside the Bosnian Serb entity Re- stroyed during the siege and over 11,000 of the Centre for Contemporary Art said hydropower plant on Niagara Falls or to display featuring over 1,000 lasers. Experienced divers and underwater The scientists will introduce visitors to EXPLODING assigning blame. nal resting place for the 17th-century first publika Srpska, was put up in June 2014 people were killed. at the time: “The ICAR canned beef is visit his room in the New Yorker Hotel. archaeologists will present different the minutie that makes up the world. DISCOVERIES “Otherwise you’re just talking pain, rabbi of Sarajevo, was not demined until by a union of war veterans from Eastern Some ‘roses’ have been removed re- remembered by the people of Sarajevo Guests will also see how Tesla pro- December 15th artefacts discovered deep under the They’ll demonstrate how one mol- you’re not talking education,” he said, 1998. Sarajevo. cently, replaced by fresh asphalt. with disgust. Cats and dogs did not want duced electricity from vegetables, built 10am, 11.30am, 1pm, 2.30pm sea’s surface and introduce you to ecule can simultaneously transport The festival offers insight into the adding: “I don’t blame anybody.” A report written by a sergeant from the It reads: “In this place, on May 19th, 1992, This one, in front of the BBI shopping to eat it and people had to.” an electro-magnetic train, created the December 16th wondrous tales of lost cities, fortresses, electricity but also reveal whether a world of fires and explosives that are Sarajevo’s Historic Museum, amongst NATO-led stabilisation force, SFOR, said the commander of the Republika Srpska centre close to a monument to children first remote control and have the oppor- 10am, 12pm, 1pm, 2.30pm ships and whole civilisations discov- solution is acidic or basic, and how one not only used for destruction but for others, features an exhibit about the 15 mines were discovered in the cem- Army Main Headquarters, Ratko Mladić, killed in the siege, has so far been pre- TUNNEL OF HOPE tunity to learn about more of his greatest December 17th ered underwater. electron means the difference between good. For example, hundreds of grams siege, and the War Childhood Museum etery in the first few days of work alone. mustered two battalions of self-organ- served. discoveries at the Nikola Tesla Museum’s 10.30am, 12pm, 1.30pm, 3pm a liquid and solid state. of explosive and highly poisonous so- set to open in December will also dis- ised people from the Novo Sarajevo mu- The famous ‘Tunnel of Hope’ – about exhibition. December 18th December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm dium are built into car airbags with the play stories from the war told through PLAQUE FOR NINA nicipality.” SUADA AND OLGA’S BRIDGE half a mile long – looks like an ordinary Tickets for the Science Festival cost 10.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm December 15th- 16th: 10am – 6pm aim to save lives. This and many other personal objects and testimonies. Mladić has been on trial before UN war house from the outside. 450 dinars [about €3.6] per person, while December 17th- 18th: 10 am – 8 pm interesting facts from the long history But sites of interest are not limited to Nina Zeljković was 12 when she was hit crimes tribunal in The Hague since 2012, Suada Dilberović, a 23-year-old Croa- But the facade hides the entrance to an children under the age of five can visit the MARS UP-CLOSE CRIME SCENE SCIENCE of explosives, along with different institutions and galleries, since plaques by a grenade near her home in August charged with terrorising the population tian studying medicine in Sarajevo, and underground passage dug in 1993 to link festival free of charge with their parents. CATCH THE LIGHT explosive experiments, will be shown around the city mark important spots, 1995. She died on September 2nd, mak- of Sarajevo during the siege, amongst Olga Sučić, a 34-year-old civil servant, the city to Bosnian Army-held territory The only event that will cost extra will Visitors will have the chance to learn The national crime tech centre show- during the last two days of the festival. and the scars of the siege are still easily ing her one of the last of more than 1,000 other things. were attending a peaceful protest on Vr- beyond the neutral zone of the airport, be the laser show prepared by Lund Uni- interesting facts about Mars and the cases how detectives work in the 21st On the Austrian Circus Lumineszenz visible on many buildings around the children killed in the siege. The diary she Sarajevo Mayor Ivo Komšić issued a banja Bridge on April 5th, 1992, when they allowing food and weapons to come versity. That ticket costs additional 100 possibility of intergalactic travel. The century by introducing you to the tech- stage, music is created as visitors December 17th: 6pm capital. kept up until her death became the basis statement after the plaque was raised, were shot dead by Serb snipers. through, and fleeing citizens to leave. dinars [less than one euro] per person. organisers prepared a simulation of a niques, methods and machines they move through laser lights. At the light December 18th: 5.30pm 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ARTS

15th annual Book Opera, Ballet CLUBBING Night in Serbia Tech-savvy Tesla- and Classical All Delfi and Laguna AND LIVE MUSIC bookstores in Belgrade SATURDAY DECEMBER 3rd and 20 other Serbian inspired play premieres Cinderella Quartet, Ilija M. Kolarac FRIDAY DECEMBER 2nd • Danijel Čerhanov, Dooshan • Woodie / Joma Maja / Marko cities will be open until

Arts in brief Arts in brief Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm and Goran Starčević, Brankow, Vuković, DOT, Francuska 6, midnight on December Opera: Il Trovatore (Verdi), The 16th for the 15th annual • Inigo Kennedy (Token/ Crnogorska 12, 11pm 11pm in Belgrade National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm Book Night. As usual, Asymmetric), Drugstore, • Fatir feat Radieux, Mladost, • Vinyl Set, Plastic, Takovska 34, th people who show up at SUNDAY DECEMBER 4 Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm 11pm TRA T T O R I A any of the participating 11pm • Cojke, Ludost, Karadjordjeva • Hang on until the party Kolarac Podium of Chamber PIZZER I A stores will be treated • Begefank party + Cjofo MC, 44, 11pm is over, Mr Stefan Braun, Music/Rocher Band, Ilija M. Kolarac to huge discounts on Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa • Nexie and Dee, Gadost, Nemanjina 4, 11pm just about every title Bavarian Chamber Orchestra, Ilija M. 22,11pm Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Bokee, Marko Vuković available. The event will Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, • Nineties - DJ Alex Tic, • DJ Prema - RNB Night, and Joma Maja, Mladost, 8pm Nebojsina 8 also be held in several Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Bosnian and Montene- MONDAY DECEMBER 5th 11pm 11pm • Miss Millie, Ludost, 011/3863-999 [email protected] grin cities this year as • DJ Lacosta, Jimmy Woo, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm th • Hang on until the party well. Concert on The Occasion of 260 is over, Mr Stefan Braun, Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm • DJ Alex Tic- - Flashback, www.restoranamici.rs Anniversary since Mozart’s Birth and th Nemanjina 4, 11pm • STEREO BANANA, Božidarac Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, Commemoration of 225 since death of Swan Lake on Ice a Renowned Composer, Ilija M. Kolarac • Dee, Peppe & Miloš Starčević, Cultutal Centre, Radoslava 11pm at Sava Centre Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Grujića 3, 8pm • Go Deeper with Emanuel Momčilo Petrović, paino, Belgrade • Dušan Kačarević feat Jan • Repetitor, Dom Omladine, Satie, Gadost, Karadjordjeva 44, Cultural Centre Gallery, Knez Mihailova Led by choreographer 6, 9pm Kinčl and Alessandro Crimi, Makedonska 22, 9pm 11pm Konstantin Rasadin, the Mladost, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Pips, Chips & Videoclips, • Tranzit Resident DJs, Tranzit, Russian State Ice Ballet TUESDAY DECEMBER 6th • Bege Fank and Dooshan, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Braće Krsmanović 8, 11pm KOLARAC from St Petersburg will Ludost, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Ritam Nereda, Klub Fest, • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, Strahinjića be in Belgrade perform- Ballet: Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky), Zemun Gradski Park 2 Bana 47, 10pm The National Theatre, Francuska 1, • Naissus Fest Promo Party: PROGRAMME ing Swan Lake on Ice at 7.30pm Phill & Dansmore, Nic • Jinx, Ljubičice, Magacin Depo, the Sava Centre main Lawyer and Mande, Gadost, SUNDAY DECEMBER 4th Travnička 3, 9pm hall on December 14th. WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 7th Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Straight Mickey and the Boyz, Tickets for the event • Mancha & MarkPanic, KPTM, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Opera: Un Ballo in Maschera (Verdi), • Tranzit Weekend Fever, cost between €15 and The National Theatre, Francuska 1, Tranzit, Braće Krsmanović 8, Žorža Klemansoa 22,4am • Presing, Lutke, Halftones, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 3rd Sreten Manojlović, bass-baritone €25. 7.30pm 11pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, Dorćol Platz, Dobračina 59, 9pm Concert Hall, 8pm (Austria/Serbia) Nemanjina 4, 11pm , Halftones, THURSDAY DECEMBER 8th • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, Strahinjića • Presing, Lutke Quartet Cinderella Programme: Mozart, Belgrade lawyer Dorćol Platz, Dobračina 59, 9pm Bana 47, 10pm Admission free Ticket price: 300, 500 dinars presents first art Biljana Gorunović, piano, Ilija M. th • DJ Disco House, Witch Bar, MONDAY DECEMBER 5 • GistroPop, Grad Cultural Centre, exhibition Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, Pariska 13, 10pm Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 4th WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 7th 8pm • Kristali, VIS Limunada, Herz, • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan Concert Hall, 11am Concert Hall, 8pm Not an artist by profes- FRIDAY DECEMBER 9th Božidarac Cultutal Centre, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 10th Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Mozart’s Night sion, Nenad Milovanović Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm • Wrekmeister Harmonies Chamber Music Conductor: Vladimir Mili is a lawyer who will be Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, • The Tronic Lab: & Tamerlan, Elektropionir, • Fraktal /// Phuong Dan, Rocher Band exhibiting his paintings Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski WYRDSISTERS, Grad Cultural Cetinjska 15, 8pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Concert to Remember No2 Soloist: Darko Kodžas, violin in Belgrade for the first Trg 5, 8pm Stefana 115, 11pm Programme: Nichifor, Miller, Schlesinger Orchestra Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, • Slobodan Trkulja and time. A lawyer since SATURDAY DECEMBER 10th 8pm Balkanopolis, Bitefartcafe, • Danijel Čerhanov, Dooshan Brown, Santana, Production: Music Centre 1987, Milovanović has • FoodforyaSoul Ffys and Mitropolita Petra 8, 9pm and Goran Starčević, Brankow, Gilberto, Day, Samone, Mancini, been painting since St. Ephraim Male Chamber Wonder, Ellington th Spacewalker, Grad Cultural Crnogorska 12, 11pm THURSDAY, DECEMBER 8 2007 and this is his first Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Special guest: Madam Piano Concert Hall, 8pm Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, TUESDAY DECEMBER 6th • Saturday Night Fever - Dj`s exhibition, called “22 Biljana Gorunović, piano Dušan Panajotović, violin, 11pm Boško Pešić & George, Mr Pictures of Alternative Guarnerius, Džordža Vašingtona 12, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 4th Production: Music Centre • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Reality.” The exhibition 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm rd SATURDAY Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Danijel Čerhanov and th opens on December DECEMBER 3 Bavarian Chamber Orchestra FRIDAY, DECEMBER 9 th 12th at KC Grad and will SUNDAY DECEMBER 11 • DJ Night, Jimmy Woo, Luminous, Mladost, Artistic Manager and Principal Concert Hall, 8pm • Z-Cat live! :: Phanatic live!, Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Violin: Sreten Krstić Belgrade Philharmonic run through December Trio Ude: Katarina Ude, violin, Sanja th This year marks several important anniversaries for Tesla’s legacy. Photo: Flickr/Thierry Ehrmann IMAGO CUK, Dečanska 14, 11pm • Planet of Zeus, Dom Omladine, • Cojke, Ludost, Karadjordjeva Soloist: Nataša Veljković, piano Orchestra 15 . Ude, cello, Mihael Ude, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, • Party at Four | Boža Makedonska 22, 9pm 44, 11pm F. Chopin, F. Bridge, For Adventurers 2 Programme: 8pm Podunavac & Mirko • Slobodan Trkulja and • Nexie and Dee, Gadost, L. van Beethoven Conductor: Zoltan Kocsis Zagreb soloists year is 1943, soon after Tesla’s death on He said that about 70 percent of what Lazarević, KPTM, Žorža Balkanopolis, Bitefartcafe, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Ticket price: 800, 1.000, 1.200 Soloist: Boris Brezovac, viola at Kolarac MONDAY DECEMBER 12th A new multime- th Klemansoa 22,4am Mitropolita Petra 8, 9pm • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, dinars Programme: H. Berlioz, R. Strauss January 7 , 1943. The great inventor’s is presented about Tesla in his new Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Production: CEBEF Production: Belgrade This will be the first death sparks a race begins between play is true and only about 30 percent Ballet: Coppelia (Delibes), The • Saturday Night Fever - Dj`s dia play about National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm th Philharmonic time in over 30 years secret governmental organizations as fiction. Boško Pešić & George, Mr WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 7 • Obojeni Program, Anita Tomašević Stavru, paino, th they scramble to find documents and Another major aspect of the play Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm MONDAY, DECEMBER 5 that the Zagreb Solo- famous inven- Belgrade Cultural Centre Gallery, Knez th information regarding a secret weapon that makes it so interesting is the sce- • KPTM Drumming, KPTM, • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, Mr • Rebel B and Vandal Steve, Concert Hall, 8pm SUNDAY, DECEMBER 11 ists will be playing in Mihailova 6, 9pm which could have a very profound ef- nography, which is very technology- Žorža Klemansoa 22,11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Mozart: “REQUIEM”/ Concert Concert Hall, 11am Belgrade. The ensemble tor and scientist on The Occasion of 260th Trio Uhde fect on the outcome of World War II that heavy. WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 14th • Oysha, Ludost, Karadjordjeva Krsmanović 4, 11pm was created in 1953 Anniversary since Mozart’s Programme: Schumann, Dvorak Tesla reportedly designed. The play is full of multimedia. In- 44, 11pm and has continued to Nikola Tesla Ana Simonuti, piano, Belgrade Birth and Commemoration of Katharina Uhde, violin th feature only the best While the plot takes place after Te- stead of the typical stationary scenery, City Hall Congress Hall, Dragoslava • Belgrade Funk Combo, SUNDAY DECEMBER 11 th 225 since death of a Renowned Sanja Uhde, cello blends historical sla’s death, he is still very much present 3D technology is used to project each Jovanovića 2, 8pm Grad Cultural Centre, Braće instrumentalist that the Composer Michael Uhde, piano in the play. In fact, the play highlights new scene on a screen backdrop. In to- Aleksandar Madžar, paino, Ilija M. Krsmanović 4, 9pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, Zagreb classic music Choir “Orfelin” (Novi Sad) Production: Media Centre scene has had to offer. fact with specula- some of Tesla’s most important life tal, five state-of-the-art video projectors Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 8pm New Symphony Orchestra Admission free events, from his birth in the Austrian and intelligent robotic lighting are being th They will finally be back , The National THURSDAY DECEMBER 8 • Rogi, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, “Makris” tive fiction. Opera: Tosca (Puccini) in Belgrade, playing Empire town of Smiljan, in what is now used to provide the scenery on stage. Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm 9pm th Conductor: Predrag Gosta (US/ SUNDAY, DECEMBER 18 at the Ilija M. Kolarac modern Croatia, to his schooling and “We wanted to experiment a bit with • RNB Thursday Delight, Serbia) Concert Hall, 11am Endowment on Decem- first important scientific discoveries modern technology. We are projecting Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm MONDAY DECEMBER 12th Soloists: Cycle: Kolarac Podium of ber 4th. Tickets costs David GALIĆ made on European soil, to his reloca- very realistic photographs of New York Exhubitions Ana-Marija Brkić, soprano Chmaber Music • Sky High – Hip Hop and RNB, tion to America and the many achieve- streets onto the screens behind the ac- FREE COPY (Austria) Piano Duo Elmazi between three and and events Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan new play entitled ments and failures that he experienced tors. With one click of the computer, the Dragana Popović, mezzo- Programme: Schumann, Grieg, seven euros. 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm ‘FBI – The Tesla there before his death. entire scene changes from Tesla’s hotel Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. soprano (Serbia) Rachmaninoff FRIDAY DECEMBER 2nd • Don't touch the models, DOT, Files’ premiers at Karajlić has long been a prominent room to a completely different place,” Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade th Roberto Jachini Virgili, tenor Production: Music Centre International Francuska 6, 11pm TUESDAY DECEMBER 13 Belgrade’s Sava figure of the Yugoslav cultural scene. Karajlić said. Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 (Italy) Admission free Queer Film Balkan Art Fashion Event: Zip It, • Straight Mickey and the Boyz, Centre’s main hall He is best known as the leader of Sara- Young actor Nikola Rakočević was Zepter Apart hotel, Terazije 10, 8pm Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić Festival back for Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, th Auteur Film Festival, Sava Centre, BIRN editorial team: eighth year on December 18 . jevo-based band Zabranjeno Pušenje given the role of Tesla. He said that he • Amira Medunjanin, Sava Nemanjina 4, 11pm Milentija Popovića 9, 10am Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, AWritten by Nele Karajlić, a popular (and its more-recent incarnation, Emir was thrilled to get the call from Karajlić, Centre, Milentija Popovića 9, rd [email protected] Merlinka, Serbia’s first Yugoslavian musician, writer, perform- Kusturica and the No Smoking Or- adding that Karajlić’s “Surrealists” SATURDAY DECEMBER 3 th Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović 8pm WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 14 er and overall Renaissance man, the chestra) and sketch comedy troupe played a big role in his upbringing. queer film festival, was Rakia Fest: Balkan Urban • Marky Ramone’s Blitzkrieg, play premiered in November in Novi Nadrealisti (Surrealists). He said at a “With my performance in this play, I Phone: +381 11 4030 302 established in 2009 and Experience, Mikser House, [email protected] Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, Mr continues to promote Sad and has now taken up residence in press conference for the play that his would like to make the audience aware Karađorđeva 46, 2pm Subscription & Distribution: 9pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm the best and most Sava Centre. research on Tesla led him to many cor- of the fact that great scientists and in- BeFem Workout - Excersize your Goran Knezevic • Perspective Alt/Shift - • DJ Night, Jimmy Woo, 2016 marks several important anni- respondences the great inventor had ventors are regular people, they are feminism!, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine influential films deal- Krsmanović 4, 2pm +381 11 4030 303 Phobos / Sounterfate / SOL, Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES ing with LGBT issues versaries for Tesla’s legacy. It’s his 160th with members of the media as well as not gods, and that their success was [email protected] Grad Cultural Centre, Braće • CANNONBALL & COLTRANE every year. This year, birthday this year and the 80th anni- letters from his sisters in Serbia. achieved through curiosity born out of MONDAY DECEMBER 5th Krsmanović 4, 9pm TRIBUTE, Grad Cultural Centre, the festival starts on versary of his naming as an honorary “Tesla was a very interesting char- a love for what they do,” Rakočević was Delicatessen Monday: IMAGEteam, Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm th citizen of Novi Sad. The play starts sym- acter. He was a very funny person, he quoted as saying at the press confer- December 8 and lasts Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight th FRIDAY DECEMBER 9 until December 14th. For bolically at 8.21pm, to remind people played billiards very well and he loved ence by daily Blic. 4, 7pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 THURSDAY DECEMBER 15th a full programme, visit that Novi Sad has won candidacy as a to gamble,” Karajlić said, adding that he Tickets for “FBI – The Tesla Files” Circulation: 4,000 th • Marko Milosavljević all Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs the festival’s official European Capital of Culture for 2021. was so inspired while researching Te- cost in between €15 and €25 depending TUESDAY DECEMBER 6 night long, Drugstore, Bulevar • SkyHigh, Mr Stefan Braun, Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade website: www.merlinka. However, the play’s plot unfolds far sla that he ended up writing the play in on seating and can be purchased at the Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. Exhibition: Sanja Tomašević, Dom Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm com. from the Balkans – in New York City. The verse. Sava Centre box office. Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT Strogi Centar, club capturing city’s pulse Seasonal traders hope

looking for a fun, relaxed and unique Strogi Centar Belgrade experience. The bar isn’t easy to find. There are (Strict Centre) is no signs in front announcing its exist- for bountiful winter ence, so it’s best that you either go with “right in the heart” someone who has already been there The city’s Republic or study the map on their Facebook of Belgrade and is page and try to find it on your own. It’s Square is steadily located on the first floor of a residential about more than building and, as previously stated, you getting cluttered with walk into it as if you were walking into huts offering souvenirs, an address; it’s also someone’s home. The space is truly fantastic. It’s a large sweets and drinks – and the vibe that the flat made up of several separate rooms, all exquisitely decorated with very their owners are hoping club is going after. eclectic and interesting art: a repur- posed Miles Davis poster in one room, for a more prosperous exotic lamps, strange paintings, an as- David GALIĆ sortment of non-matching chairs and winter season this year. tables in another. The decor looks both remember quite a few bars of as if it was thrown together using what- Ivana NIKOLIĆ this nature from my early and ever the owners had lying around and mid-20s, but not so many in re- as if every element was meticulously leksandar Alamassi is a regular cent years. Strogi Center is basi- picked and placed. vendor at Republic Square each cally a repurposed flat located Considering that just about every bar year. Every December for the past in the central neighbourhood of and club in Belgrade today is all about three years has been the same UpperI Dorćol. The flat is the definition stripped, brick walls and minimalist in- for him: he sells souvenirs, fridge dustrial design, Strogi Centar’s appear- magnets,A clocks with Belgrade themes, rakija Aleksandar Alamassi. of what you would expect to see in an older building in this classic Belgrade ance is a breath of fresh air. bottles and figurines of famous Serbs until the The patrons are younger Belgraders, between 25 and 40. Photo: Facebook/Strogi Centar neighbourhood – very spacious with The main room is where bands play beginning of February. impossibly high ceilings. and people dance. The stage is surpris- looks fantastic and is a pleasure to be but there’s no shortage of beer, wine, tele. Since it’s not in clear view, there are Alamassi hopes that this year at what is And although Strogi Centar is a very ingly large, considering that bands in. liquor and non-alcoholic drinks on the not many people wandering into the called the ’Open Heart Square’ will be better than the previous one. Usually people mostly enjoyable place to party, it’s hard to get smaller stages in actual clubs and If you’re showing up to Strogi Centar menu. The prices are also cheaper than club at random, making the vibe very buy small fridge magnets, he said. imagine the club lasting very long, con- this is still, in essence, an apartment. on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday, there you’ll see anywhere else in the neigh- familiar and relaxed. “Last year was OK. We didn’t earn much, but we sidering that not many clubs situated There’s high seating throughout the is a cover charge but it’s only about one bourhood.§ Overall, there are very few clubs and still earned something,” he said as he took souve- in residential buildings exist anymore. main room. The bar is located in the euro to get in. On most days of the week, While Strogi Centar stays open until bars right now that personify the true nirs out of a box and placed them on a stand. Whether it’s the space not translating next room. It’s a good room to relax especially at the end of the week, there 2-3am on the weekends, it might not spirit of downtown Belgrade as well “Besides, the competition is fierce,” he added, well for summer crowds or neighbours in, but most people will congregate will be live bands playing – blues, jazz be the ideal place for people who want as Strogi Centar does. Highly recom- looking around the square, full of stalls like his getting tired of the noise and making a where the band is playing and simply and pop/rock bands. As expected from to party well into the morning, but it is mended. own. He admitted that the only way to compete habit of calling the police, most similar wait to be served by the staff, who are such a bar, there’s no Serbian folk music a perfect place to get the party started. was to lower his prices. bars and clubs seem to be short-lived. very cordial and fast with their service. or even much electronic music of any The patrons are younger Belgraders, “Clients can bargain! And we won’t sell things But we wish Strogi Centar the best There’s also a coatroom and a “chill kind on the programme. between 25 and 40, and once you walk Strogi Centar without bargaining,” he said. and we certainly advise you to head zone,” room with more comfortable The drink selection isn’t spectacular, into the flat, you pretty much know Address: Gospodar Jevremova 43 How do you combat the cold, I asked. over there as soon as possible if you’re seating provided. Frankly, every room but it’s adequate. Don’t expect cocktails, what you’re going to get from the clien- Contact: +381 64 199 61 29 “We drink boiled wine and boiled rakija,” Ala- massi replied, smiling and getting back to work. Not far from Alamassi’s stand was another Jellies and Turkish delight. one, but this time covered with sweets: Turkish delight for all tastes, halva and jellies. There was Two nights of Slobodan Sevdalinka queen Amira almost a queue of clients wanting to buy some of these products, which were all hand-made. Trkulja & Balkanopolis Medunjanin back in Belgrade Ljiljana, the owner, said this was the second time her stall had come to the “Open Heart ue to popular demand, Musicology Barcaffe Sessions have put to- evdalinka is Bosnia’s most famed traditional song form and there Square”. She said last year was “fabulous” in gether a two-night event for Slobodan Trkulja & Balkanopolis. This are not many, if any, out there who perform this style better than terms of revenue and that she expected the concert series is extremely special because Trkulja and his en- Amira Medunjanin. These slow-tempo, spiritual and emotional same this year as well. semble rarely play smaller “bar concerts” and often play much songs create a very melancholic atmosphere that Medunjanin “This is a Sarajevo recipe. We produce D S everything ourselves,” she said of the wares on larger venues. knows how to evoke perfectly. This will be her third time performing at her stall. The Bitefartcafe is the perfect place to witness Trkulja’s fantastic take on Sava Centre, which she sold out in 2014 and 2015. She admitted that it was a bit cold, but added Balkan music in an intimate environment. Trkulja has been fascinating fans Expect to hear brand new material this time around as well as songs that she that the City of Belgrade had allowed each hut for many years now with his music. Based on jazz, pop and traditional Bal- has never sung before in Belgrade. Medunjanin also announced that this concert to have electricity, and said she hoped that the kan music, Trkulja creates a very unique musical experience with his band. will be significantly longer than her last two in Belgrade, so that she can present weather would not be that bad this December. He not only plays a large array of instruments, but sings as well. The two shows new material and sing older songs that Belgraders were expecting the last two times “Last year, we stayed two weeks longer here, are scheduled for December 5th-6th; both with start at 9pm. Tickets for each concert but didn’t get to hear. Tickets for the December 8th show cost between eight and €20 de- free of charge. I honestly hope the City will give are ten euros. pending on seating. us the same thing now,” she said. All the products are hand-made. Photos: BIRN/Ivana Nikolić

AIRLINE TICKETS FOR THE WHOLE WORLD Last remaining Ramone in Belgrade Planet of Zeus back in Belgrade Dropkick Murphys announce Belgrade Funk Combo at KC Grad Belgrade show The last surviving member of the Wrekmeister Harmonies Thrilled with their last show in Belgrade legendary Ramones, Marky Ramone, at Elektropionir several years ago, Greek stoner rock Wednesday nights at KC Grad are still Legendary Boston hardcore band will be playing with his band Blitzkrieg band Planet of Zeus is coming back to reserved for great jazz shows and the Dropkick Murphys are playing Belgrade in Belgrade on December 8th at Mikser Featuring members of influential post the Serbian capital. This time, they will Belgrade Funk Combo are playing on at Dom Omladine on February 8th. Yet House. 2016 marks the 40th anniversary rock masters Godspeed! You Black be promoting their new album “Loyal December 7th. The band is made up of another legendary hardcore group of punk rock music, a genre that the Emperor, Wrekmeister Harmonies cre- to the Pack” and will be supported by musicians who have been active on – Slapshot, will accompany them on Ramones will forever be considered ate very somber and emotional music two local hardcore bands, Few Reasons the Belgrade jazz scene for a long time. tour. Known for their huge sing-along the forefathers of. Expect to hear many influenced by modern classical music Why and Last Thrill. The concert They play originals and cool covers of choruses that are directly influenced classic Ramones songs along with and contemporary rock. They are play- takes place on December 6th at Dom classic funk tunes with lots of improvi- by their Irish heritage, the Murphys are tracks spanning the drummer’s long ing at Elektropionir on December 5th. Omladine. Tickets cost eight euros at sation and interaction on stage. It costs always fun to see live. Tickets cost €25 www.flyflytravel.com career. Tickets cost €16 at the door. Tickets cost €12 at the door. the door. less than two euros to get in. at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 02 - Thursday, December 22, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

Find your copy of Belgrade Insight here:

The Best National & International Cuisine in BALKAN INVESTIGATIVE REPORTING the Heart of Belgrade NETWORK Skadarska 34 11000 Belgrade Kolarčeva 7 Serbia 11000 Beograd Tel. +381 63 1872222 Serbia Email. [email protected] www.malivrabac.rs

pizzeria

"allo-allo" TEL AVIV HUMMUS HOUSE - ISRAELI caffe CUISINE RESTAURANT 46 Karađorđeva Street Working hours: 00-24 Working hours: Evening events: Food delivery: 09-21 mon – sun thu – sat Picerija Caffe ALO ALO Carice Milice 3, 069/2632 224 09 am – 11 pm 09 pm – 04 am Svetozara Markovića 19a Kičevska 21, 064/58 63 821 Tel: 011 3246 947, 323 88 88 +381 11 26 26 068 FB:facebook.com/Tel Aviv Hummus House mikser.rs telavivhummushouse.com fаcebook.com/mikser.belgrade