NORTHERN BOTSWANA “Half the Fun of the Travel

Home , Chobe National Park, Moremi Game Reserve

Travel COMPANION

NORTHERN BOTSWANA “Half the fun of the travel.. is the esthetic of lostness” Ray Bradbury Welcome to Botswana

Botswana is widely regarded as Dog, cheetah, Brown Hyena, cape having some of the best wilderness vulture, Wattled crane, Kori Bustard, Band wildlife areas on the African and pel’s Fishing Owl. This makes continent. With a full 38 percent your safari experience even more of its total land area devoted to memorable, and at times you will feel national parks, reserves and wildlife simply surrounded by wild animals. management areas - for the most part The fi rst – and most lasting unfenced, allowing animals to roam impressions – will be of vast expanses wild and free - travel through many of uninhabited wilderness stretching parts of the country has the feeling of from horizon to horizon, the sensation moving through an immense Nature of limitless space, astoundingly rich wonderland. wildlife and bird viewing, night skies Botswana is a rarity in our over- littered with stars and heavenly bodies populated, over-developed world. of an unimaginable brilliance, and untamed and untameable, it is one stunning sunsets of unearthly beauty. of the last great refuges for Nature’s As well, with more and more magnifi cent pageantry of life. cultural tourism options on oﬀ er, Experience here the stunning you will be charmed by the people beauty of the world’s largest intact of Botswana, visiting their villages inland Delta - the Okavango; the and experiencing fi rst-hand their rich unimaginable vastness of the world’s cultural heritage. second largest game reserve – the But perhaps most of all, Botswana’s central Kalahari Game Reserve; the greatest gift is its ability to put us isolation and other-worldliness of the in touch with our natural selves. it Makgadikgadi – uninhabited pans the oﬀ ers that vital link so keenly felt by size of portugal; and the astoundingly inhabitants of the developed world, prolifi c wildlife of the chobe National a pervasive void we feel but often park. cannot name – our connectedness Botswana is the last stronghold with Nature and the astonishing for a number of endangered bird and diversity of plants and animals to be mammal species, including Wild explored. About us... BOTSWANA TOuRiSM BOARD

The Botswana Tourism Board TO plan, develop and implement TO set performance targets and (BTB) was established by an Act of tourism marketing and promotion to design programmes aimed at Tparliament in 2003. its mandate is to strategies aimed at creating and facilitating the continued growth and market and promote Botswana as a sustaining a positive image of development of tourism; premier tourist destination of choice, Botswana as a tourist and investor TO develop and implement to promote Botswana as a tourism destination; appropriate strategies for achieving investment venue, and to grade and TO plan, formulate and implement annual work plan objectives and to classify accommodation facilities in strategies for promoting sustainable set performance targets aimed at the the country. The Board commenced tourism development in collaboration promotion of tourism business in its operations in january 2006. with the tourism industry’s private Botswana; A Board of Directors, consisting sector, local authorities, local TO investigate any matter that has a of 15 members and appointed by the communities and Non-Governmental negative eﬀ ect on the tourism industry, Minister of Wildlife, Environment and Organisations (NGOs); and to make recommendations Tourism, governs the BTB. The Board TO determine policies for giving thereon to the Government; is comprised of the chairperson and eﬀ ect to the objects and purposes of TO manage and co-ordinate the vice chairperson, a representative the Act that established the BTB; Botswana’s tourism promotional and from the governing Ministry, and 12 TO advise Government to change, publicity programmes; members from the public and private review or formulate policy and TO provide market research sectors in the tourism industry. strategies where necessary; information and market intelligence BTB holds a broad portfolio TO implement Government on tourism; that touches nearly all aspects of policies and programmes aimed at TO promote the expansion of tourism development in the country, facilitating the continued growth and existing and new investment in including: development of the tourism sector; Botswana’s tourism sector;

2 LOcAL OFFicES

Headquarters private Bag 275 Gaborone, Botswana Tel: 267 391-3111 Fax: 267 395-3220 [email protected] www.botswanatourism.co.bw

Gaborone Mall Branch Tel: 267 395-9455 Fax: 267 318-1373

Maun Oﬃ ce Tel: 267 625-2211

Kasane Oﬃ ce Tel: 267 686-3093

OFFicES AND AGENciES ABROAD

TO establish and expand local recreational and leisure tourism, Germany as well as international travel trade and to bring them to the required c/o interface international networks to promote and sell marketable standard. Karl-Marx-Allee 91 A Botswana; The grading system serves as a 10243 Berlin, Germany TO market and promote the means to protect the consumer and [email protected] establishment of joint tourism business guarantee quality accommodation www.botswanatourism.de ventures between citizen and foreign and services in Botswana. it also assists contact: Frank Hoﬀ mann investors; the accommodation establishment to f.hoﬀ [email protected] TO grade and classify accomm- benchmark its performance against odation facilities in the tourism set standards. united Kingdom industry; Additionally, the grading system c/o Botswana High commission TO promote the improvement is a useful tool to indicate to travel 6 Stratford place of tourism industry standards, in the agents, tour operators and tourists the London, W1c 1Ay areas of service standards and a code general quality of accommodation contact: Dawn parr of ethics; facilities in the country. This can serve [email protected] TO conduct tourism awareness as a guide for tourists planning their campaigns within and outside destinations in Botswana. united States of America Botswana; and The system also provides a c/o partner concepts LLc TO develop and improve existing framework to industry investors so that 127 Lubrano Drive, Suite 203 tourism opportunities, and to diversify they are able to design their facilities to Annapolis, MD 21401 the sector to include other forms of attract the desired market segments. Tel: 410-224-7688 tourism, such as cultural and heritage BTB is funded through grants Fax: 410-224-1499 tourism, eco-tourism, entertainment, received from the Government. contact: Leslee Hall [email protected] Northern Highlights

Enjoy enchanting mokoro rides through the Discover spectacular wildlife Experience our national monuments; Okavango Delta, and experience unique including Africa’s incredible San rock paintings at Tsodilo and photographic opportunities. Big Five. spelunking caves at Gcwihaba. Travel COMPANION NORTHERN BOTSWANA

iNTRODucTiON Welcome to Botswana 1 About us 2 Highlights 4

DESTiNATiONS Travel through 12 iBAs Take a cruise on the chobe River - enjoy Okavango Delta 6 (important Bird Areas) and inspiring scenery, rich concentrations of Moremi Game Reserve 10 enjoy fantastic birding. wildlife and breathtaking sunsets. Linyanti, Selinda & Kwando 12 Maun 14 Tsodilo Hills 16 Gcwihaba caves & Aha Hills 18 chobe National park 20 Kasane 22

REGiONAL MApS Okavango Delta 18-2 chobe National park 18-3 Botswana fold out Distance chart 18-4

iNFORMATiON Botswana at a Glance 24 visitor information 25 Emergency Numbers 32 your Notes 33

produced by: Botswana Tourism Board, Gaborone November 2008

Writer/Editor: Linda pfotenhauer Graphic Design: Sarah Banks, Kolobe Botswana cartography: Department of Surveys and Mapping Travel COMPANION to... Okavango Delta

One of the most sought after ecosystem, the largest intact inland the caprivi, then later spills over the wilderness destinations in the world, delta in the world. vast, fan-shaped Delta. the Okavango Delta gives entrance The Okavango Delta is situated The timing of the fl oods is uncanny. Oto the spectacle of wild Africa such deep within the Kalahari Basin, and is just as the waters from Botswana’s as dreams are made of – the heart- often referred to as the ‘jewel’ of the summer rains disappear (April, May), stopping excitement of big game Kalahari. so the fl oodwaters begin their journey viewing, the supreme tranquility and That the Okavango exists at all – – 1300 kilometres of which is through serenity of an untouched delta, and deep within this thirstland – seems Kalahari sands – revitalising a vast evocative scenes of extraordinary remarkable. Shaped like a fan, the and remarkably diverse ecosystem of natural beauty. Delta is fed by the Okavango River, plant and animal life. A journey to the Okavango Delta – the third largest in southern Africa. The water’s fl ow, distribution and deep into Africa’s untouched interior – it has been steadily developed over drainage patterns are continually is like no other. Moving from wetland the millennia by millions of tonnes changing, principally due to tectonic to dryland – traversing the meandering of sand carried down the river from activity underground. As an extension palm and papyrus fringed waterways, Angola. of Africa’s Great Rift valley, the passing palm-fringed islands, and Swollen with fl oodwaters from the Okavango is set within a geographi- thick woodland, resplendent with summer rains, the Okavango River cally unstable area of faults, and lush vegetation, and rich in wildlife – travels from the Angolan highlands, regularly experiences land movements, reveals the many facets of this unique crosses into Botswana at Mohembo in tremors and minor quakes.

6 By the time the water reaches corridor-like shape is contained Many of the smaller islands are Maun, at the Delta’s southern fringes, within two parallel faults in the Earth’s grandiose termitaria built by fungus- its volume is a fraction of what it was. crust. Here the river runs deep and growing termites, one of 400 termite As little as two to three percent of wide and the swamps are perennially species in Africa, whose fantastic the water reaches the Thamalakane fl ooded. The dominant vegetation structures are a source of refuge and River in Maun, over 95 percent lost to is vast papyrus beds and large food for many animals. evapo-transpiration. stands of phoenix palms. The main The Delta region of the Okavango But the fl ow doesn’t stop in Maun. tourist attractions of the panhandle can vary in size from 15 000 square it may continue east to the Boteti River, are fi shing, birding and visiting the kilometres during drier periods to a to fi ll Lake xau or the Makgadikgadi colourful villages that line its western staggering 22 000 square kilometres pans, or drain west to Lake River to fi ll fringes. during wetter periods. its dominant Lake Ngami. At Seronga, the fan-shaped Delta plant species are reeds, mokolwane There are three main geographical emerges, and the waters spill over palms, acacia, sycamore fi g, areas: the panhandle, the Delta, and the Delta, rejuvenating the landscape sausage trees, raintrees and African dryland. and creating stunning mosaics of mangosteen. The panhandle begins at the channels, lagoons, ox-bow lakes, At the Delta’s lower reaches, Okavango’s northern reaches, at fl ooded grasslands and thousands the perennial swamps give way Mohembo, extending down for upon thousands of islands of an to seasonal swamps and fl ooded approximately 80 kilometres. its endless variety of shapes and sizes. grasslands. To the southeast the third

7 vegetation region becomes evident, at approximately 35, and Black eff orts and initiatives of camps and as it changes to true dryland. There Rhino at 4. lodges in its concessions, the recently are three major land masses here: the Major species to be seen include: launched Okavango Development Matsebi Ridge, chief’s island and the elephant, buff alo, giraff e, zebra, Management plan (ODMp) and its Moremi tongue. Here the vegetation hippo, crocodile, rhino, red lechwe, status as a Ramsar site, under iucN, is predominantly mophane, acacia waterbuck, reedbuck, duiker, an agreement that limits its utilisation and scrub bush and the land is dotted impala, kudu, steenbok, wildebeest, and development. with pans. it is to this region that large hartebeest, sable, roan, tsessebe, numbers of mammals retreat during lion, leopard, cheetah, genet, serval, the dry winter months. and caracal, along with an immense Major tourist attractions in the variety of birds – land and water, AcTiviTiES Delta and the dryland areas are game resident and migratory, some of which Game drives viewing, birding and boating, often in are rare and endangered. Safari walks the traditional mokoro. The diversity it should be noted, however, that and numbers of animals and birds game viewing very much depends Bird watching can be staggering. A recent overview on season, and water and food Boat cruises of the Okavango records 122 species availability. Elephant Back Safari of mammals, 71 species of fi sh, 444 The Okavango is a proposed Horse riding species of birds, 64 species of reptiles World Heritage Site. its long-term and 1300 species of fl owering plants. conservation is ensured through Mokoro A successful rhino reintroduction government policy and regulations photography programme in the Okavango now (though only Moremi Game Reserve puts the population of White Rhino has an offi cial protected status), the

9 Travel COMPANION to... Moremi Game Reserve

This gem of a national park has to proclaim Moremi a game reserve This makes for spectacular game garnered a number of important in 1963. viewing and bird watching, including distinctions. in 2008, it was voted the it is the only oﬃ cially protected all major naturally occurring herbivore T‘best game reserve in Africa’ by the area of the Okavango Delta, and as and carnivore species in the region, prestigious African Travel and Tourism such holds tremendous scientifi c, and over 400 species of birds, many Association at South Africa’s premier environmental and conservation migratory and some endangered. Both tourism fair, indaba. importance. Black and White Rhino have recently it is the fi rst reserve in Africa that And, undoubtedly, Moremi ranks been re-introduced, now making the was established by local residents. as one of the most beautiful reserves reserve a ‘Big Five’ destination. concerned about the rapid depletion in Africa, possibly in the world. contained within an area of of wildlife in their ancestral lands – Moremi Game Reserve is situated approximately 3900 sq kms, here due to uncontrolled hunting and cattle in the central and eastern areas of the land and Delta meet to create an encroachment – the Batawana people Okavango, and includes the Moremi exceedingly picturesque preserve of Ngamiland, under the leadership of Tongue and chief’s island, boasting of fl oodplains – either seasonally or the deceased chief Moremi iii’s wife, one of the richest and most diverse perennially wet, waterways, lagoons, Mrs. Moremi, took the bold initiative ecosystems on the continent. pools, pans, grasslands and riparian,

10 riverine and mophane forests. This terrain makes driving Moremi’s many loops and trails both delightful and, at times, totally inspiring. Moremi is a very popular destination for the self-drive camper, and is often combined with the chobe National park to the northeast. The rustic Third Bridge campsite, situated near the pretty Sekiri River, fl anked with thick stands of papyrus, is a favourite, creating lasting memories of resplendent Okavango sunsets. Travel COMPANION to... Linyanti, Selinda & Kwando

At the extreme northern reaches of the Swamps then fi lls the Linyanti The reserves string along the Botswana – the caprivi just on the other River, which courses east into the rivers, with the Kwando to the Aside – lie three of the most splendid, chobe River. northwest, Selinda (1350 sq kms in wild and secluded destinations the The swamps that fan out from the area) south and Linyanti (1250 sq country has to off er. rivers carry the same magnifi cent kms in area) east. A small area of the Sandwiched between the chobe natural history as the Okavango chobe National park juts up to meet National park to the east and the – picturesque channels, lagoons, the Linyanti River and swamps; it Okavango south, the extensive papyrus stands and reedbeds. has a government campsite and Kwando, Selinda and Linyanti Riparian forest lines the waterways, facilities for the self-drive camper, concessions off er superb wildlife giving rise to magnifi cent, towering while the concessions offer private viewing – and terrain to rival the trees. Dry riverbeds – the Selinda camps. physical beauty of the Okavango. Spillway and the Savuté channel This is real African big game And no wonder – both share – meet the swamps, their lack of country, and during the dry season geographical similarities. Like the fl owing water possibly determined the permanent waters of both the Okavango River, the Kwando River by faulting underground that halts Kwando and Linyanti Rivers serve as fl ows south from Angola across the the course of the waters. interestingly, important migration points for wildlife caprivi Strip and into Botswana. faults in this area are believed to be from much of northern Botswana – Like the Okavango, it slowly fi lls the the southernmost point of Africa’s including large herds of buff alo and Linyanti Swamps. The outfl ow from Great Rift valley. elephant, wildebeest and zebra.

12 virtually all naturally occurring antelope and predators can be seen in these concessions, depending, of course, on the season, and food and water availability. These include waterbuck, reedbuck, giraﬀ e, impala, kudu, and with any luck the rare and shy sitatunga, and accompanying lion, hyena, leopard, cheetah, jackal, serval and caracal. But perhaps the greatest attraction of this part of Botswana is the feeling it gives of extreme isolation, and being completely removed from the world as we know it. The camps are small and private, with perhaps only twenty or so guests present at one time. There’s nothing else out there – except you, the bush and a fascinating contingent of wild animals – just waiting to be discovered, and explored. Travel COMPANION to... Maun

Botswana’s tourism capital lies on then Tsao and fi nally, in 1915, in Frequently, the ‘people’ side of the southern fringes of the Okavango Maun. the Okavango is overlooked, with Delta, and still, despite recent Ngamiland District comprises a tourists merely using Maun as a Bmodernisations, carries the feeling of a fascinating variety of ethnic groups: transit point to embark for the Delta. dusty, frontier town. For many tourists, the Hambukushu, Basubiya and However, exploring the traditional Maun is the point of entry into the Bayei – all of central African origins, villages along the western fringes Delta, and often into Botswana, with who know the Okavango intimately, of the Delta, in the panhandle direct fl ights from both johannesburg having expertly exploited and area, is worth the time and effort, and Gaborone. utilised its abundant resources for and for many tourists, becomes Maun is the administrative centre centuries. There are also the Banoka a real highlight of their travels in of Ngamiland District and the seat – the River Bushmen, who are the Botswana. of power of the Batawana people. Okavango’s original inhabitants, The dramatic surge in the numbers The Batawana are an oﬀ shoot of the the Bakgalagadi, and the Baherero, of tourists coming to Botswana in Bangwato of Serowe. Following a who originate from Namibia, and the 1980s brought equally dramatic chieftainship dispute in the late 18th whose women can be seen wearing changes to Maun. Safari companies century, Kgosi (chief) Tawana and brightly coloured victorian style abound, and their signposts dot the his people left Serowe and settled dresses as they stroll along the town sandy parking lots. Modern malls, in Ngamiland, fi rst establishing their roads, or sit outside their traditional shops, hotels and guesthouses capital at Lake Ngami, then Toteng, rondavels. have sprung up everywhere; and

14 now virtually any food item – from NATuRAL HiSTORy champagne, French cheeses, and chocolates down to commonplace NHABE MuSEuM necessities – can be purchased. This small but interesting museum has Today you can enjoy wilderness displays on the arts, crafts and natural and wildlife by day and watch high history of Botswana. tech DvDs by night, or walk into old government offices straight out ARTS AND cRAFTS of the colonial era. Meanwhile, the timeless Thamala- Shopping options are constantly kane River meanders lazily through expanding in Maun, and it hosts a the town, setting the scene and mood number of conventional arts and crafts for what lies ahead. shops that sell a variety of products from Botswana and other African WiLDLiFE viEWiNG countries. Most are situated in the metalwork and silver jewellery. it also centre of Maun or at the airport. MAuN WiLDLiFE EDucATiONAL has a coﬀ ee shop selling home-made At the town’s outskirts, there are pARK breads and cakes; situated on the cottage industries where visitors can This small reserve, situated on the Shorobe Road at the Okavango River shop and watch village craft-makers Lodge turn-oﬀ . outskirts of the town, holds a variety at work. of antelope and small mammals, but no predators; visitors do their game- BOTSWANA QuALiTy BASKETS DuNE Dune sells locally made clothing, viewing on foot. Shoppers can watch village basket- jewellery and accessories; situated in makers at work, and buy quality OKAvANGO SWAMpS cROcODiLE Maun’s old Mall. FARM hand-woven baskets; situated at Adult, juvenile and baby crocodiles Matlapaneng, just outside Maun. can be seen up close and personal SiBANDA’S cRAFTS AcTiviTiES at this commercial farm about 15 Sibanda’s crafts produces hand- camel riding (Boro) kilometres from Maun, on the Sehitwa painted, hand-stitched cotton tex- Moremi day trips Road. tiles, such as tablecloths, table Okavango scenic fl ights cuLTuRAL TOuRS runners, cushion covers, placemats, rugs and wall hangings; situated on Sixaxa cultural village tours BAyEi cuLTuRAL TOuR the Shorobe Road, just before the Tsodilo day trips Sedia Hotel. A two to three hour tour to Sixaxa, a Mokoro rides Bayei village about 30 minutes drive OKAvANGO cERAMicS crocodile Farm visits from Maun, familiarises visitors with pottery, both hand-made and hand- panhandle village tours traditional village life; they are invited painted, along with paper and soaps Fishing to participate in typical chores, such provide an unusual array of products; island bush walks as pounding maize or cooking over an situated on the Shorobe Road. open fi re. Demonstrations are given Basket weaving (Etsha 6, on traditional tool-making, craft- THE vELvET DuST MiGHT Gumare, Tsau) making, basket-making, music and This factory produces a wide range Arts and crafts sales dance, and visitors may be invited to of hand-dyed cotton clothing, Gcwihaba tours try traditional cuisine. household items, bead and wire arts,

15 Travel COMPANION to... Tsodilo Hills

Rising abruptly, and dramatically, symbolism remain a mystery even to and traded copper jewellery from the from the Kalahari scrub bush – the today. congo, seashells from the Atlantic, rock face turning a copper colour in Exploring the three main Hills and glass beads from Asia, probably Rthe dying sun – the magnetic power – Male, Female, and child – is a in exchange for specularite and furs. of Tsodilo Hills both captivates and journey into antiquity. Archaeological There was a great deal of interaction mystifi es. There is an undeniable research – ongoing for the past 30 between diﬀ erent groups, and trade spiritualism about the Hills that years – estimates that Tsodilo has been networks were extensive. immediately strikes the visitor. inhabited for the past 100 000 years, Excavations also reveal over 20 indeed for the people who live making this one of the world’s oldest mines that extracted specularite – a at the Hills – the San, the original historical sites. pottery, iron, glass glittery iron-oxide derivative that was inhabitants, and the Hambukushu beads, shell beads, carved bone and used in early times as a cosmetic. who have periodically occupied the stone tools date back 90 000 years. Rock paintings are nearly every- hills for the past 200 years – Tsodilo The Early iron Age Site at Tsodilo, where – representing thousands of is a sacred, mystical place where called Divuyu, dates between 700- years of human inhabitation, and are ancestral spirits dwell. in earlier times, 900AD, and reveals that Bantu amongst the region’s fi nest, and most their ancestors performed religious people have been living at the hills important. There are approximately rituals to ask for assistance, and for for over 1000 years, probably having 4 000 in all, comprising red fi nger rain. They also put paintings on the come from central Africa. They were paintings and geometrics. it is almost rock face; and their meaning and cattle farmers, settled on the plateau, certain that most paintings were done

16 by the San, and some were painted by of certain images. Many are isolated has ablutions and water, while the the pastoral Khoe who later settled in fi gures and over half depict wild and three other smaller campsites have no the area. The red paintings were done domestic animals. in fact, there is a facilities. Because of its tremendous mainly in the fi rst millennium AD. higher incidence of domestic animals historical and cultural importance, Two of the most famous images than at other sites in southern Africa. Tsodilo was declared a uNEScO are the rhino polychromes and the Some are scenes, but few seem to tell World Heritage Site in 2002. Eland panel, the latter situated on a a story. Many are outlined schematic soaring cliﬀ that overlooks the African designs and geometrical patterns. wilderness. indeed the inaccessibility There are walking trails – the of many of the paintings may be linked Rhino Trail, Lion Trail and cliﬀ Trail, to their religious signifi cance. and others; and it is recommended AcTiviTiES The fact that Tsodilo is totally that you take a guide to walk the Rock art removed from all other rock art sites trails and see the paintings. Both San Bush walks in southern Africa adds to its aura and Hambukushu live near the hills, Museum visit of magic. The nearest known site is and guides from their villages can be 250 kilometres away. What’s more, easily arranged. cultural experience at local the paintings at Tsodilo are generally There is a small museum at villages unlike others in the southern African the entrance to the site; the main region – in both style and incidence campsite at Museum Headquarters

17 Travel COMPANION to... Gcwihaba caves

certainly one of the wildest – clouds of screeching, fl eeing bats million years. it was formed during and most remote destinations in winging through the dusty darkness. the pleistocene Age when the area was Botswana, Gcwihaba is a fascinating Some caverns are up to 10 metres much wetter. There have been dramatic `cunderground labyrinthe of caverns high, some are so tiny that one needs climatic variations alternating very and pits, linked passages, fantastical to squeeze, or crawl on the belly, to wet with very dry periods. stalagmite and stalactite formations, get through them; and some stalactites unique ecosystems of fl ora and beautifully coloured fl owstones measure up to six metres in height, and fauna have been recorded that appear like waterfalls of rock. meeting their cousin stalagmites to at Gcwihaba. These include the Moving from the more commonly form organic columns that seem to Namaqua Fig, only found at these hills used northern entrance, you’ll fi rst support the entire cave roof. and easily recognisable by its long come across thousands of bats The main cavern is called trailing roots, the endemic aloe, tent hanging upside down from the cave ‘Drotsky’s cavern,’ named after the tortoises, barking geckos, Ruepel’s walls. The most common species are Ghanzi farmer Martinus Drotsky, who parrot (also unique to this region) and the commerson’s Leaf-nosed Bat – the was the fi rst European to be shown barn owls which live in the caves. largest insectivorous bat in southern the caves by the !Kung San in 1934. Archaeological evidence suggests Africa, the tiny Dent’s Horseshoe Bat Situated on a sand ridge that the area was inhabited by and the Egyptian Slit-faced Bat. They set amongst undulating dunes, foraging peoples thousands of years are harmless, but as you approach, be Gcwihaba has been part of the ago. Late Stone Age tools, burnt prepared for a possible mass exodus Kalahari ecosystem for almost three ostrich eggshells, animal bones, even

18 a fossilised primate skull, have been unearthed in the region. indeed the caves hold important clues to the way prehistoric peoples related to their environments. Gcwihaba is a designated National Monument and a proposed uNEScO World Heritage Site.

AHA HiLLS Straddling the Botswana/Namibia border, the Aha Hills lie about 50 kms northwest of Gcwihaba, and are visible from it. The Aha Hills are mostly rough and jagged, having been split by weathering into numerous faults and fractures. They cover an area of approximately 245 sq kms, mostly in Botswana. Travel COMPANION to... chobe National park

Whether arriving by air or road, the in the park: the chobe Riverfront, Driving the loops that hug the fi rst glimpse of the river – deep and the Ngwezumba pans, Savuté and river’s edge, you may see up to dazzling in the sandy terrain – is always Linyanti. 15 diff erent species of animals on Wbreathtaking. it appears as a swathe The most accessible and frequently any one game drive, including of brilliant, peacock blue ribbon, visited of Botswana’s big game waterbuck, lechwe, puku (this is the winding its way through the tiny town country, the chobe Riverfront is most only part of Botswana where they of Kasane, and ensuing wilderness – famous for its large herds of elephants can be seen), giraff e, kudu, roan and the chobe National park. and cape Buff alo, which during the sable, impala, warthog, bushbuck, undoubtedly one of Africa’s most dry winter months converge upon monkeys and baboons, along with beautiful rivers, the chobe supports the river to drink. the accompanying predators lion, a diversity and concentration of During this season, on an leopard, hyena and jackal. wildlife unparalled anywhere else in afternoon game drive, you may see Take a river cruise – and you’ll the country. hundreds of elephants at one time. experience the park, and the animals, Established in 1968, the park you may be surrounded by elephants, from another vantage point. Here covers approximately 11 7 00 sq kms, as the main Serondella road becomes you’ll get up close and personal with encompassing fl oodplains, swamps impassable and scores of family hippo, crocodile and a mind-boggling and woodland. The chobe River herds cross the main road to make array of water birds. forms its northern boundary. There their way to the river to drink, bathe Over 460 bird species have been are four distinct geographical areas and play. recorded in the park, making it one

20 of Africa’s premier venues for bird particularly lion, cheetah and hyena, safaris. common species to be seen of which there are large resident include the Sacred ibis, Egyptian populations. Geese, the ubiquitous cormorants The Savuté channel fl ows from and darters, Spur-winged Geese, pel’s the Linyanti River for about 100 Fishing Owl, carmine Bee-eaters, kilometres, carrying water away from most members of the kingfi sher family, the river and releasing it into a vast all the rollers, the unmistakable Fish swampland called the Savuté Marsh, Eagle, the Martial Eagle, and many and further south onto the Mababe members of the stork family. Depression, which is also fed by the The chobe River rises in the Ngwezumba River from the northeast. northern Angolan highlands, travels The Mababe – immense and fl at and enormous distances before it reaches fringed by thickets of trees – was once Botswana at Ngoma. Like the part of the Makgadikgadi super-lake. Okavango and Zambezi rivers, the When fi lled with water, it becomes chobe’s course is aﬀ ected by fault the venue for thousands of migratory lines that are extensions of the Great birds and animals, particularly large Rift valley. These three mighty rivers herds of zebra. carry more water than all other rivers Geographically, Savuté is an area in southern Africa. of many curiosities. One of its greatest mysteries is the Savuté channel itself, which has over the past 100 NGWEZuMBA pANS year inexplicably dried up and recommenced its fl ow several times. The Ngwezumba pans lie This irregular water fl ow explains the approximately 70 kms south of the numerous dead trees that line the chobe River and comprise a large channel, for they have germinated complex of clay pans, surrounded by and grown when the channel was mophane woodlands and grassland dry and drowned when the channel plains. During the rainy season, the fl owed again. pans fi ll with water, then attracting wildlife that move away from the LiNyANTi permanent water sources of the Linyanti and chobe Rivers. During the dry winter months, game- viewing at the permanent waters of SAvuTÉ the Linyanti can be excellent. The area that falls within the chobe National Truly at the interior of the park, Savuté park, which has a public campsite, is boasts most of the chobe species, sandwiched between photographic except for water-loving antelope. concessions to the west and hunting it is best known for its predators, concessions to the east (see map). Travel COMPANION to... Kasane

Situated on the banks of the chobe for travellers wishing to stay and BAOBAB TREE River, Kasane is both the administrative enjoy the park. Some are splendidly Behind the Kasane police Station lies centre of chobe District and gateway situated, with wonderful views of the an absolutely immense baobab tree, Sto chobe National park. it also is an river and its wildlife. with a hollow big enough for humans important point of debarkation for Often visitors opt to have a morning to enter; it was once used as a prison the nearby victoria Falls in Zimbabwe game drive and an afternoon boat by colonial administrators. and Livingstone in Zambia, and cruise, with an afternoon game drive Namibia’s caprivi Strip. the following day, as this is the time SNAKE pARK Kasane is situated a few kilometres of day when elephants are usually Kazungula’s Snake park holds about 50 from the chobe River’s confl uence spotted. Many visitors also tack on snakes (17 species) in pleasant garden with the Zambezi, where the four a day trip to victoria Falls, which is surroundings. They run the gamut from countries of Botswana, Zambia, about 80 kilometres from Kasane. the harmless Brown House Snake Zimbabwe, and Namibia meet. Kasane now boasts small shopping to the deadly Boomslang and Black At Kazungula, a few kilometres malls where all basic commodities Mamba. cARAKAL, the NGO that runs away, there is a ferry crossing between can be purchased, and arts and crafts the park, is a community-based project Botswana and Zambia. shops. While its main attraction is the that runs educational programmes On the main road that runs along park that lies a mere 10 kilometres for Batswana children, and a training the river, and further inland, there are away, there are nevertheless attractions programme to involve Batswana in the a number of lodges and guest houses in and around the town. tourism industry.

22 cHOBE DiSTRicT LANDMARKS area ideal for camping and walking safaris, especially around the pans. LAKE LiAMBEZi KAZuNGuLA FERRy The people of the chobe Enclave will always have fond memories of this dry The chobe and Zambezi Rivers meet lake. For here was where they used at Kazungula, 10 kms from Kasane, to derive their livelihood with ease. where a ferry connects Botswana with Hope of it fi lling up will never die, Zambia. and that day will be met with great KAZuMA FOREST RESERvE celebrations. Kazuma Forest Reserve boasts the LESOMA MEMORiAL MONuMENT world’s busiest elephant corridor in 1977, the brutal civil war in the then that joins two of the world’s greatest Rhodesia spilled over into Botswana. parks: the chobe National park in in the process, 15 Botswana Defence Botswana and Hwange National park Force soldiers died; however, the in Zimbabwe. ideal for camping and incident only strengthened Botswana’s walking safaris. national resolve to remain a peace- MAiKAELELO FOREST RESERvE loving nation. The pans in this reserve oﬀ er lodging KASANE HOT SpRiNGS and campsites. The warm and salty waters of this KASANE FOREST RESERvE natural spring are believed to hold medicinal powers. This is also where a Lesoma valley oﬀ ers campsites, wildlife corridor between the villages walking safaris, and night game drives of Kazungula and Kasane is situated. by local tour operators. SEBOBA WATER RApiDS AND REcREATiONAL pARK AcTiviTiES These rapids occur when the waters Boat excursions of the mighty chobe River meet an Sunset boat cruises undulating rock base that blocks the water’s passage. The resulting rapids Fishing and beautiful natural setting give rise Game drives to the trees from which Kasane derives Day excursions to victoria Falls its name. Seboba Water Springs SiBuyu FOREST RESERvE Kgotla visit To the ancient San hunters and Lesoma Memorial Monument gatherers, this was a land of plenty impalila and Kasika village that teemed with game, and held cultural tours abundant water, and wild fruits and vegetables. Today the only traces of cultural activities through human existence and pre-historic Mowana Lodge activity lie at the ruins at Nunga. An Botswana at a Glance

Location: Botswana is a land-locked country situated in southern Africa. It borders South Africa, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Approximately two-thirds of the country lies within the Tropics. Country Size: Botswana covers an area of 581 730 square kilometres – about the size of France or Kenya. Topography: Most of the country is flat, with some small hills in the eastern areas. Kalahari sands cover 84 percent of the surface area. With the exception of the northern areas, most of Botswana is without perennial surface water. Capital: Gaborone Urban centres: Francistown, Lobatse, Selebi-Phikwe Tourism centres: Maun, Kasane Independence day: 30 September 1966 Government: Multi-party democracy Head of State: His Excellency Lt. Gen. Seretse Khama Ian Khama Population: 1.85 million, with an average annual growth rate of 2.4 % (2006 statistics) National language: Setswana Official language: English Currency: Pula Main exports: Diamonds, copper nickel, beef, soda ash, tourism Major crops: Maize, sorghum, millet visitor information

Accommodation 30 Firewood 32 National parks – central Botswana 31 Banks and Banking Hours 29 Fishing 32 National parks – Northern Botswana 31 Boats (importing) 27 Gaborone Game Reserve 31 National parks – Southern Botswana 31 central Kalahari Game Reserve 31 Gazetted Border posts 26 National parks – Western Botswana 31 chobe National park 31 Getting Around in Towns 26 Nxai pan National park 31 communications 28 Getting There 26 Oﬃ ce Hours 29 consumer Goods (importing) 28 Health 29 pets (importing) 27 credit cards 29 Hiv/AiDS 30 plants (importing) 28 crime 30 importation of Goods 28 Restricted Goods (importing) 28 currency 29 Khutse Game Reserve 31 Safety 30 customs 27 Luggage Restrictions 27 Self Drive camping 32 Diamond purchase 29 Makgadikgadi pans Game Reserve 31 Shopping 30 Distance chart 18-4 Malaria 30 Sun and Heat-Related problems 30 Drinking Water 30 Mannyelanong Game Reserve 31 Time 29 Drivers’ Licenses 27 Maun Educational park 31 Trans-Kalahari Frontier park 31 Duty Free Allowances 27 Meat / Dairy products (importing) 28 Travel insurance 29 Electrical Supply 29 Money 29 vaccinations 27 Emergency Numbers 32 Moremi Game Reserve 31 value Added Tax 30 Entry Formalities 26 Motor vehicles (importing) 27 What to Bring 28 Firearms & Ammunition 29 National parks & Reserves 31 What to Wear 28

25 Travel COMPANION

South African Express By RAiL GETTiNG THERE Tel: 267 397-2397 From South Africa or Zimbabwe, Web: www.fl ysax.com Botswana can be reached via a railway By AiR line that runs along the eastern part of Air Botswana, Botswana’s national and By ROAD the country, passing through Lobatse, only airline, provides international Botswana is accessible by tarred road Gaborone and Francistown. Tickets for fl ights to johannesburg, and Harare and from South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia various classes of passenger travel can be domestic fl ights to Francistown, Maun and Namibia. vehicles are driven on purchased at any of the station oﬃ ces or and Kasane. the left hand side of the road. A valid on the train. Reservations can be made at international driver’s license, along the railway station in Gaborone 267 395- Air Namibia fl ies to Maun everyday of with vehicle registration documents, 1401 and Francistown 267 241-3444. the week except Tuesday and Thursday. are required to drive in Botswana, and Air charter services are also available. drivers should always carry them. For more information consult: The Botswana Railways website: Both Air Botswana and South African Most major roads in Botswana are tarred www.botswanarailways.co.bw Express have daily fl ights to Gaborone. and driving conditions are generally Air Botswana has daily fl ights from good. The main roads to established GETTiNG AROuND iN TOWNS johannesburg to Maun. South African areas are regularly graded. Four-wheel Taxis are normally a convenient way to get Express will begin johannesburg to Maun drive is required when travelling in the around in towns and are reasonably priced. fl ights in 2009. national parks and reserves, as well as They are easily identifi ed in designated in remote areas. stations or can be contacted by telephone. Most major international airlines Taxis to Gaborone are also available from Sir from Europe, the united States, Asia car and four-wheel drive rental services Seretse Khama international Airport. and Australia fl y into johannesburg, are widely available in major tourist South Africa, where connecting fl ights centres, airports and hotels. can be booked to Sir Seretse Khama ENTRy FORMALiTiES international Airport in Gaborone or to By BuS Maun. There are scheduled bus services viSAS across borders between Botswana and citizens of most European and common- For fl ight details contact: South Africa, Zimbabwe, Namibia and wealth countries do not require a visa for Air Botswana central Reservations Zambia, as well as good internal bus entry into Botswana. Tel: 267 395-1921 services linking major and minor towns Web: www.airbotswana.bw and villages across the country. visitors should check with Botswana embassies or consulates, or their travel agents, before departure. GAZETTED BORDER pOSTS visitor visas are normally granted for 30 Ramatlabama 06h00–22h00 BOTSWANA /NAMiBiA days, but can be extended for a total of pioneer Gate 06h00–00h00 three months. Mamuno 07h00–00h00 Mccarthy Rest 08h00–16h00 Ngoma 06h00–22h00 it is vital for visitors to carry a valid Mohembo 06h00–18h00 BOTSWANA/ ZiMBABWE passport and suﬃ cient funds to facilitate Kazungula 06h00–18h00 their stay. BOTSWANA / SOuTH AFRicA pandamatenga 08h00–17h00 pont Drift (Tuli) 08h00–16h00 Ramokgwebana 06h00–22h00 Note: For countries with whom Botswana Martin’s Drift 08h00–18h00 has no diplomatic representation, visa Tlokweng Gate 06h00–00h00 BOTSWANA / ZAMBiA information and processing is available Ramotswa (Bridge) 07h00–19h00 Kazungula (Ferry) 06h00–18h00 through British Embassies and High commissions.

26 LuGGAGE RESTRicTiONS However, it would be wise to have an DuTy FREE ALLOWANcES it is advisable to adhere to the luggage updated TpD (tetanus, polio, diphtheria) restrictions for both scheduled international, vaccine, and a Hepatitis A vaccine. domestic and charter fl ights: 20kgs (44lbs) customs duties are not charged on on domestic fl ights, 12kgs (26lbs) on light cuSTOMS the following goods imported as aircraft (including Okavango Delta charter All goods acquired outside Botswana must accompanied or unaccompanied fl ights), and 20kgs (44lbs) on international be declared when you enter the country. passengers’ baggage: fl ights. BOATS Wines ...... 2 litres vAcciNATiONS No boat, mokoro or aquatic apparatus Spirituous*...... 1 litre if you are travelling to Botswana from may be imported into Botswana, unless areas infected with yellow Fever, the owner is in possession of an import cigarettes ...... 200 you must have a valid yellow Fever permit issued by the Department of cigars ...... 20 vaccination certifi cate. Otherwise, Water Aﬀ airs. no other immunisations are required. Tobacco** ...... 250 gms perfume ...... 50 ml For more information contact: Department of Water Aﬀ airs Toilet water...... 250 ml cuSTOMS OFFicES p/Bag 0029, Gaborone Tel: 267 360-7100 * includes all other alcoholic HEADQuARTERS beverages private Bag 0041, Gaborone pETS ** includes cigarette and pipe Tel: 267 364-2100 / 392-2855 The importation of animals is closely tobacco Fax: 267 392-2781 regulated for public health reasons and also for the well being of the animals. Note: Duty will be payable at the REGiONAL OFFicES Domestic pets and livestock may be applicable rates where travellers SOuTH REGiON imported subject to animal health import goods exceeding the above p.O. Box 263, Lobatse restrictions. allowances. Travellers importing Tel: 267 533-0566, goods for business or commercial Fax: 267 573-32477 purpose will not qualify for the above For more information contact: allowances. SOuTH cENTRAL REGiON Director of Animal Health & production private Bag 00102, Gaborone p/Bag 0032, Gaborone Tel: 267 364-2100 / 392-2855 Tel: 267 395-0500 Fax: 267 392-2781 iMpORTATiON OF MOTOR vEHicLES Note: A valid certifi cate of identity, Non-residents visiting Botswana and cENTRAL REGiON rabies vaccination and movement permit coming from a country outside the p.O. Box 129, Selebi phikwe issued in Lesotho, Malawi, South Africa, Southern African common customs Tel: 267 261-3699 / 261-0627 Swaziland, Namibia or Zimbabwe will be Area for a limited period are normally Fax: 267 261-5367 accepted at the time of importation into required to produce a carnet or bill of NORTH REGiON Botswana. entry (any duty liability thereon being p.O. Box 457, Francistown secured by bond or cash deposit) in Tel: 267 241-3635 DRivERS’ LicENSES respect of their motor vehicles. For Fax: 267 241-3114 Drivers are required to carry their further information, please contact licenses at all times. Licenses from Department of customs. NORTH WEST REGiON neighbouring countries are accepted p.O. Box 219, Maun in Botswana. if not written in English, a Note: The Southern African common Tel: 267 686-1312 certifi ed written translation is required. customs Area comprises Botswana, Fax: 267 686-0194 international drivers’ licenses are Lesotho, South Africa, Swaziland and accepted in Botswana. Namibia.

27 Travel COMPANION

WHAT TO BRiNG iMpORTATiON OF GOODS Binoculars, torch, insect repellent, lip salve, sunscreen, sunglasses. cosmetics, cONSuMER GOODS For more information contact: Ministry of Agriculture, Enquiries medications, and cigarettes are all The following consumer goods may available in the major towns, but if p/Bag 003, Gaborone be imported for private use without Tel 267 395-0500 specifi c brand names are needed, it is an import permit, provided they do best to bring enough to last your stay. not exceed the maximum allowable MEAT / DAiRy pRODucTS quantities. The regulations on importing meat However, care needs to be taken to Key: pp-per person. pF-per family comply with international aviation products change frequently, because security regulations for items in carry they are based on disease outbreaks on luggage. contact your airline for pRODucT MAx in diﬀ erent countries. Always ask details. TypE QuANTiTy customs oﬃ cials upon arrival what are the specifi c regulations. MEAT For more information contact: WHAT TO WEAR Red meat, goat/lamb 25 kg pF poultry meat 5 kg pp Ministry of Agriculture, Enquiries Tinned poultry meat 20 kg pp p/Bag 003, Gaborone in summer, lightweight, light-coloured Tel 267 395-0500 cottons are preferable. Garments of neutral colours that blend with the DAiRy bush and forest are advisable for safaris Eggs 36 eggs pp RESTRicTED GOODS and game viewing. Avoid synthetic Fresh milk 2 litres pp These are goods that can only be materials and black clothing, as they imported with a license or permit. OTHERS increase perspiration and discomfort. • Narcotic, habit forming drugs and Maize / maize products 25 kg pp Bring a lightweight jacket and/or jersey related substances in any form; for unexpected temperature changes or Wheat 25 kg pp rain. pulses (beans, peas, lentils) 25 kg pp • Firearms, ammunition and Sorghum / sorghum 25 kg pp explosives; products in winter, wear trousers, long-sleeved • indecent and obscene material shirts and blouses and jerseys. From such as pornographic books, May – August, night temperatures can cabbage, Onions 1 bag pp potatoes, Oranges, magazines, fi lms, videos, DvDs fall below zero degrees celsius, so warm and software. jerseys and jackets are vital, especially Tomatoes, chimolia, on early morning and evening game Rape, Spinach drives. Bread loaves 6 per week closed, comfortable walking shoes or cOMMuNicATiONS gym shoes are a must in all seasons. pLANTS Most of Botswana is networked by Special attention should be given to plants may be imported subject to automatic telephone exchanges, with protection from the sun. Bring a sunhat, plant health restrictions, and South public telephones in even the most good quality sunscreen, sun lotion and African transit permits may also be remote places. polarised sunglasses. required in respect of plants shipped through South Africa. The international access code in Wide brimmed hats are preferable to Botswana is 00. When calling baseball caps. international to Botswana, dial + 267.

28 cellular phone coverage is provided Travellers’ cheques and foreign currency of an import permit must be licensed by three mobile networks in Botswana: may be changed at banks, bureaux de immediately upon arrival in Botswana. Mascom, Orange and be Mobile. change, and authorised hotels. The importation of fi rearms that do not Mobile Sim cards are available in most have the manufacturer’s serial number supermarkets and service stations. All The uS dollar, Euros, British pound and or other number by which they can major towns in Botswana are network the South African Rand are the most be identifi ed, stamped or engraved on covered, as well as portions of the easily convertible currencies. a metal part of the weapon is totally national highway. prohibited. Automatic teller machines accept Mobile networks in Botswana oﬀ er foreign visa cards, but are mostly found it should also be noted that police various services to their subscribers, in larger towns and cities. cultural sites permits for fi rearms are issued on a including internet access, fax, and and community art and craft outlets limited quota basis, and there can be a international Roaming. it is always usually only accept cash. considerable delay in obtaining a permit, important to seek advice about network particularly on fi rst importation. it is services so as to choose one that will BANKS advisable for intending importers to make work for you. Six main commercial banks, as well as applications well in advance of dispatch, a number of foreign exchange bureaux, so that unnecessary inconvenience and using a cellular phone whilst driving is operate in Botswana. expenses can be avoided. against the law in Botswana, and liable to a p300 fi ne. Earphones or hands-free BANKiNG HOuRS: police permits for fi rearms are issued by: devices are recommended. Monday to Friday 8:30-15:30 central Arms, The Registry Saturday 8:30 to 10:45. p O Box 334, Gaborone. For further information on the network Tel: + 267 391-4202, +267 391-4106 providers in Botswana, consult the cREDiT cARDS following services: Major credit cards, such as Mastercard and visa, are accepted throughout the DiAMOND puRcHASE MAScOM www.mascom.co.bw country, in most hotels, restaurants, ORANGE www.orange-botswana.co.bw retail outlets and safari companies. visitors to Botswana have the BTc www.btc.co.bw However, shops in remote areas and opportunity to purchase diamond be Mobile www.be-mobile.co.bw service stations may only accept cash. jewellery from authorised dealers. A strict certifi cation system is in place to inform the buyer of the origin of OFFicE HOuRS TiME the diamond, and the stated value and Government Oﬃ ces / Departments quality is verifi ed. GMT plus 2 hours 7:30 - 12:45 and 13:45 - 16:30 Business 8:00 - 13:00 and 14:00 - 17:00 HEALTH Shops 9:00 - 18:00 Monday to Friday, ELEcTRicAL SuppLy 9:00 - 15:00 Saturday 9:00 - 13:00 Sunday Botswana is one of the healthiest Electricity is supplied at 220/240v. Both countries in sub-Saharan Africa, with square and round wall plugs are used. good primary health care facilities MONEy available throughout the country. However, the following health cuRRENcy FiREARMS & AMMuNiTiON precautions are advised. The Botswana currency is the pula (meaning ‘rain’ in Setswana). it is The issue of fi rearms licenses in TRAvEL iNSuRANcE divided into 100 thebe (meaning Botswana is strictly controlled, and all it is essential for visitors to remote areas ‘shield’ in Setswana). fi rearms imported under the authority of Botswana to have a comprehensive

29 Travel COMPANION medical insurance policy, to provide and as certain strains can become drug should be more than p5 000. in such coverage for the treatment of serious resistant, it is best to seek medical cases, the following is required: a tax illnesses/accidents, and if required, advice before your departure and take invoice stating vAT paid, your passport medical evacuation. personal eﬀ ects any medication prescribed. pregnant or number and your bank account details. insurance is also advisable. very young children are not advised to travel to malarial areas. it is always advisable to keep a copy of check that your insurance policy will the vAT form as a record for any follow- be accepted by service providers in Other precautions are: to wear long up on the transaction. Botswana. Ensure that you are treated sleeves, socks, closed shoes, and by licensed medical personnel to enable generally keep the body covered, to vAT claims usually can be made at all you to provide your insurance company sleep with a mosquito net and to use major border posts and airports. with appropriate documentation and mosquito coils and repellent. receipts. SuN AND HEAT-RELATED pROBLEMS SAFETy Reasonably priced medical services Always take preventive measures that are available at government clinics include wearing a wide-brimmed sunhat The self-drive camper driving the open and hospitals throughout the country. and sunglasses, liberally applying roads in Botswana should always private medical practitioners are sunscreen every three or four hours, drive at a reasonable speed, and avoid available in the cities and major towns, regularly taking rehydration mixes, over-taking, except when absolutely such as Gaborone, Francistown and drinking plenty of water and fruit juices necessary. Maun. Gaborone private Hospital is (at least three litres of liquid daily), the largest private hospital in Botswana. avoiding prolonged exposure to the cRiME The hospital requires medical coverage, sun, and avoiding excessive amounts of Botswana remains a relatively safe place or cash payment in advance where alcohol, which causes dehydration. to visit or live. Take the normal precautions medical coverage is not available. you would take anywhere else:

DRiNKiNG WATER SHOppiNG • Always lock car doors; Tap water throughout the country is • Always lock hotel rooms; safe to drink. Bottled mineral water is All major towns in Botswana, including • Don’t leave valuables in cars or readily available in most shops and Maun and Kasane, have shopping hotel rooms; supermarkets, and at camps and lodges. centres and supermarkets, and all basic • Take care with your bags in shopping Tourists travelling by road are advised to commodities can easily be purchased. centres and other crowded places, carry suﬃ cient water at all times. Many regional chain stores operate in and after coming out of banks or Botswana. in addition, there are 24- ATM kiosks; Hiv/AiDS hour convenience shops at most fuel • Avoid walking alone at night. visitors are advised to take the necessary service stations. precautions against Hiv/AiDS and other AccOMMODATiON Sexually Transmitted Diseases. There is an increasing range of local arts and crafts on sale in Gaborone, Maun All major towns and villages in the MALARiA and Kasane and other tourist areas; they country have hotels, lodges, motels Malaria, including cerebral malaria, is include Botswana’s renowned world- and guesthouses, catering to a range common in northern Botswana, in the class baskets, woodcarvings, jewellery, of budgets, and some have camping Okavango and chobe areas, particularly pottery, tapestries, fabrics and clothing, facilities. in and around parks and during and immediately following the glassware, and San crafts. reserves, there are a variety of lodges, as rainy season, from November to April. well as camps in private concessions. vALuE ADDED TAx As the strains of malaria, and the drugs To claim 10% vAT refund for total value camping facilities are widely available used to combat them, frequently change, of goods purchased, the amount spent around the country, both at private

30 lodges and/or hotels, and within the NORTHERN BOTSWANA cENTRAL BOTSWANA government parks and reserves. cHOBE NATiONAL pARK cENTRAL KALAHARi GAME RESERvE A park abundant in wildlife, off ering a The world’s second largest reserve, visit www.botswanatourism.co.bw for safari experience of a lifetime. holding vast open plains, scrub bush, salt graded accommodation facilities. Size: 11 700 km2 pans, ancient riverbeds, and sand dunes. When to visit: all year round Size: 52 800 km2 Rainfall: 600mm per annum When to visit: all year round NATiONAL pARKS & RESERvES Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level climate: Hot, dry conditions Rainfall: 150mm per annum Botswana’s extensive system of national MOREMi GAME RESERvE Altitude: 600m to 1600m above sea level parks and game reserves comprises Described as one of the most beautiful approximately 17% of national land wildlife reserves in Africa. KHuTSE GAME RESERvE area. A further 18% of national land Size: 5 000 km2 characterised by undulating plains is allocated as Wildlife Management When to visit: all year round and dry Kalahari bush savannah, with Areas which act as buff er zones around climate: Temperatures range from an extensive mineral pan system in the the parks and reserves. about 14o celsius (july) to 24o celsius reserve, which attracts animals. (january) Size: 2,500 km2 The parks are primarily unfenced, Rainfall: 525mm per annum, varying When to visit: all year round allowing wildlife to freely roam, are Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level situated in a variety of habitats and for WESTERN BOTSWANA the most part are well managed. NxAi pAN NATiONAL pARK TRANS-KALAHARi FRONTiER pARK Once part of a prehistoric lake that Famous for its large antelope herds, camping facilities are available in all covered central Botswana, this park this is Africa’s fi rst peace park, where national parks and reserves. campsites is now transformed into fossil pans animals roam freely across the national typically have standpipes and ablution covered with grassland that attract an borders of Botswana and South Africa. blocks, with toilets and showers. abundance of game. Size: 36 000 km2 Size: 2 578 km2 When to visit: all year round All camping in the national parks and When to visit: all year round climate: Hot, dry conditions reserves is in designated campsites, climate: Hot, extreme daytime Rainfall: 200mm per annum, varying and campers are not allowed to camp conditions Altitude: 900m to 1100m above sea level elsewhere in the parks. MAKGADiKGADi pANS GAME RESERvE SOuTHERN BOTSWANA Reservations for camping in national part of one of the world’s largest saltpans GABORONE GAME RESERvE parks and reserves should be made and prehistoric lakes. Nestled in the city and a popular spot 2 prior to departure. Size: 12 000 km for city residents, the park off ers game When to visit: all year round and bird viewing, picnic sites and an For park camping reservations, contact: climate: Hot, extreme daytime education centre. Department of Wildlife & National parks conditions Size: 500 Hectares Gaborone Offi ce: p.O. Box 131, Gaborone Rainfall: 500mm per annum When to visit: all year round Tel: 267 318-0774, Fax: 267 391-2354 Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level Rainfall: 510mm per annum Maun Offi ce: p.O. Box 11, Maun Altitude: 970m above sea level Tel: 267 686-1265, Fax: 267 686-1264 MAuN EDucATiONAL pARK Situated on the eastern banks of the MANNyELANONG GAME RESERvE Offi ces can be emailed on [email protected] Thamalakane River, the park is an The name of the park derives from the education centre for schoolchildren; it cape vulture, an endangered bird that Note: if you cannot honour your has a variety of wildlife species that can is protected; the area is fenced and the reservations, please cancel well in advance be viewed from game hides. birds can only be viewed from afar. to give others a chance. When to visit: all year round When to visit: all year round

31 Travel COMPANION

away all rubbish until you get to the allowed in designated areas of the SELF DRivE cAMpiNG next town. national parks, and only with an offi cial permit. Embarking on a camping trip in • cigarette butts should be well Botswana requires a good deal of extinguished and placed in a rubbish For fi shing permit enquiries, contact: planning and preparation. you will be bag, not thrown on the ground. Department of Wildlife & National parks going to remote areas, accessible only • Make sure the campfi re is well Gaborone Offi ce: p.O. Box 131, by four-wheel drive, where water, petrol extinguished at the end of the Gaborone or food may not be available. you may evening, or after use, and cover it Tel: 267 397-1405, Fax: 267 391-2354 often be driving on rough terrain, and with sand. Maun Offi ce: p.O Box 11, Maun through heavy sand, in conditions very Tel: 267 686-0368, Fax: 267 686-0053 diff erent from those you are used to. • Don’t sleep on bridges or animal Kasane Offi ce: p.O. Box 17, Kasane paths, particularly those of elephants Tel: 267 625-0486, Fax: 267 625-1623 As a general rule, take all food and hippos. Note: permits must be applied for in requirements to last your stay. Take person. Both monthly and annual permits • Bury all faecal matter and burn all are issued. at least 20 litres of water per person, toilet paper. preferably more; for desert destinations, • Don’t bathe or drink from still bodies FiREWOOD carry between 50 and 100 litres. carry Firewood is defi ned as wood that is at least 100 litres of petrol in long-range of water; there is the danger of bilharzia. both dead and fallen and which can tanks or in metal jerry tins. Take spare be removed without the use of tools. vehicle parts for breakdowns. • in the Okavango, don’t swim in Self-drive campers should use fi rewood lagoons or streams; there is the sparingly and only when necessary. As campsites within game reserves and danger of crocodiles and/or hippos. national parks are usually not fenced, it is important for campers to take necessary • children must be constantly precautionary measures to ensure their supervised. Never leave them alone safety, and to abide by the information in the campsite. Never allow children provided by wildlife offi cers. to nap on the ground or in the open. EMERGENcy NuMBERS • Don’t stray far from the campsite, The following basic camping rules or walk in the bush, unless with a Ambulance 997 (toll free) should be strictly heeded: qualifi ed guide. police 999 (toll free) • Only camp in designated campsites. The general rule of thumb for camping Fire Brigade 998 (toll free) in Botswana is - take only memories, • Always sleep in your tent, roof tent leave only footprints. Medical Rescue 911 (toll free) or vehicle. Make sure your tent zips Medical Air Rescue 390-1601 up well. FiSHiNG • Don’t sleep with legs or arms in the panhandle area of the Okavango, Mascom 122 protruding from the tent. there are a number of camps and lodges Orange 112 that specialise in fi shing excursions. • use rubbish receptacles at the Fishing can also be done on the chobe be mobile 1333 campsites; if there are none, carry River, outside the park. Fishing is only

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35 credits:

Cover photo montage: ‘Buffalo at Sunset’, Beverly Joubert; ‘Poler’, David Luck; ‘Waterlily’, Warren Briggs.

Inside front cover: Fabio Chironi. Inside back cover: Anon.

Pages 2-3: David Luck. Page 4: Top left: Greg Hughes; Bottom left: Fabio Chironi; Middle: Grant Atkinson; Right: Fabio Chironi. Page 5: clockwise from top left: Vic Horatius; Anon; Greg Hughes. Pages 6-7: David Luck. Page 8: David Luck. Page 9: Left to right: Greg Hughes; Grant Atkinson; Greg Hughes. Page 10: Grant Atkinson. Page 11: Top: Vic Horatius; Bottom: David Luck. Page 12: Grant Atkinson. Page 13: Top left: Brian Rode; Top right: Grant Atkinson; Middle: MOA; Bottom: Grant Atkinson. Page 14: Stuart Arnold. Page 15: Stuart Arnold. Page 16: Botswana National Museum. Page 17: Fabio Chironi. Page 18: Botswana National Museum. Page 18-1: David Luck. Page 19: Botswana National Museum. Page 20: Grant Atkinson. Page 21: Fabio Chironi. Page 22: Anon. Page 23: Fabio Chironi. Page 24: Fabio Chironi. Page 25: David Luck.

Maun activity listing on page 15 reprinted from Discover Botswana, 2007, courtesy of Imprint Botswana.

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The defi nitive travel guides to Botswana