Kgalagadi Central

Travel COMPANION

KGALAGADI / CENTRAL “Half the fun of the travel.. is the aesthetic of lostness” Ray Bradbury Welcome to Botswana

Botswana is widely regarded as Dog, Cheetah, Brown Hyena, Cape having some of the best wilderness Vulture, Wattled Crane, Kori Bustard, Band wildlife areas on the African and Pel’s Fishing Owl. This makes continent. With a full 38 percent your safari experience even more of its total land area devoted to memorable, and at times you will feel national parks, reserves and wildlife simply surrounded by wild animals. management areas - for the most part The fi rst – and most lasting unfenced, allowing animals to roam impressions – will be of vast expanses wild and free - travel through many of uninhabited wilderness stretching parts of the country has the feeling of from horizon to horizon, the sensation moving through an immense Nature of limitless space, astoundingly rich wonderland. wildlife and bird viewing, night skies Botswana is a rarity in our over- littered with stars and heavenly bodies populated, over-developed world. of an unimaginable brilliance, and Untamed and untameable, it is one stunning sunsets of unearthly beauty. of the last great refuges for Nature’s As well, with more and more magnifi cent pageantry of life. cultural tourism options on off er, Experience here the stunning you will be charmed by the people beauty of the world’s largest intact of Botswana, visiting their villages inland Delta - the Okavango; the and experiencing fi rst-hand their rich unimaginable vastness of the world’s cultural heritage. second largest game reserve – the But perhaps most of all, Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve; the greatest gift is its ability to put us isolation and other-worldliness of the in touch with our natural selves. It Makgadikgadi – uninhabited pans the off ers that vital link so keenly felt by size of Portugal; and the astoundingly inhabitants of the developed world, prolifi c wildlife of the Chobe National a pervasive void we feel but often Park. cannot name – our connectedness Botswana is the last stronghold with Nature and the astonishing for a number of endangered bird and diversity of plants and animals to be mammal species, including Wild explored. About Us... BOTSWANA TOURISM BOARD

The Botswana Tourism Board TO plan, develop and implement TO set performance targets and (BTB) was established by an Act of tourism marketing and promotion to design programmes aimed at TParliament in 2003. Its mandate is to strategies aimed at creating and facilitating the continued growth and market and promote Botswana as a sustaining a positive image of development of tourism; premier tourist destination of choice, Botswana as a tourist and investor TO develop and implement to promote Botswana as a tourism destination; appropriate strategies for achieving investment venue, and to grade and TO plan, formulate and implement annual work plan objectives and to classify accommodation facilities in strategies for promoting sustainable set performance targets aimed at the the country. The Board commenced tourism development in collaboration promotion of tourism business in its operations in January 2006. with the tourism industry’s private Botswana; A Board of Directors, consisting sector, local authorities, local TO investigate any matter that has a of 15 members and appointed by the communities and Non-Governmental negative eff ect on the tourism industry, Minister of Wildlife, Environment and Organisations (NGOs); and to make recommendations Tourism, governs the BTB. The Board TO determine policies for giving thereon to the Government; is comprised of the Chairperson and eff ect to the objects and purposes of TO manage and co-ordinate the Vice Chairperson, a representative the Act that established the BTB; Botswana’s tourism promotional and from the governing Ministry, and 12 TO advise Government to change, publicity programmes; members from the public and private review or formulate policy and TO provide market research sectors in the tourism industry. strategies where necessary; information and market intelligence BTB holds a broad portfolio TO implement Government on tourism; that touches nearly all aspects of policies and programmes aimed at TO promote the expansion of tourism development in the country, facilitating the continued growth and existing and new investment in including: development of the tourism sector; Botswana’s tourism sector;

2 LOCAL OFFICES

Headquarters Private Bag 275 Gaborone, Botswana Tel: 267 391-3111 Fax: 267 395-3220 [email protected] www.botswanatourism.co.bw

Gaborone Mall Branch Tel: 267 395-9455 Fax: 267 318-1373

Maun Offi ce Tel: 267 686-3093

Kasane Offi ce Tel: 267 625-2211

OFFICES AND AGENCIES ABROAD

TO establish and expand local recreational and leisure tourism, Germany as well as international travel trade and to bring them to the required c/o Interface International networks to promote and sell marketable standard. Karl-Marx-Allee 91 A Botswana; The grading system serves as a 10243 Berlin, Germany TO market and promote the means to protect the consumer and [email protected] establishment of joint tourism business guarantee quality accommodation www.botswanatourism.de ventures between citizen and foreign and services in Botswana. It also assists Contact: Frank Hoff mann investors; the accommodation establishment to f.hoff [email protected] TO grade and classify accomm- benchmark its performance against odation facilities in the tourism set standards. United Kingdom industry; Additionally, the grading system c/o Botswana High Commission TO promote the improvement is a useful tool to indicate to travel 6 Stratford Place of tourism industry standards, in the agents, tour operators and tourists the London, W1C 1AY areas of service standards and a code general quality of accommodation Contact: Dawn Parr of ethics; facilities in the country. This can serve [email protected] TO conduct tourism awareness as a guide for tourists planning their campaigns within and outside destinations in Botswana. United States of America Botswana; and The system also provides a c/o Partner Concepts LLC TO develop and improve existing framework to industry investors so that 127 Lubrano Drive, Suite 203 tourism opportunities, and to diversify they are able to design their facilities to Annapolis, MD 21401 the sector to include other forms of attract the desired market segments. Tel: 410-224-7688 tourism, such as cultural and heritage BTB is funded through grants Fax: 410-224-1499 tourism, eco-tourism, entertainment, received from the Government. Contact: Leslee Hall [email protected] Kgalagadi / Central Highlights

Experience the ultimate adventure – a Witness the magnificent zebra Traverse the vast Makgadikgadi on quad self-drive safari through the Kgalagadi; migrations of the Makgadikgadi. bikes. Experience the immense wilderness see the unique birds of the desert. Explore the pans on walks with the San. of the world’s second largest game reserve. Travel COMPANION KGALAGADI / CENTRAL

INTRODUCTION Welcome to Botswana 1 About Us 2 Highlights 4

DESTINATIONS Indulge in arts and crafts shopping, See the rare black-maned The Kgalagadi 6 including world-class basketry and San Kalahari lions, and a host of Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve 9 jewellery and artifacts. other desert animals. Nxai Pan National Park 12 Central Kalahari Game Reserve 14 Khutse Game Reserve 16 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park 18 Ghanzi 20 Khama Rhino Sanctuary 22 Serowe 23

REGIONAL MAPS Makgadikgadi Pans 18-2 Central Kalahari Game Reserve 18-3 Botswana fold out Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park 18-4

INFORMATION Botswana at a Glance 24 Visitor Information 25 Emergency Numbers 32 Distance Chart 33 Your Notes 34

Produced by: Botswana Tourism Board, Gaborone April 2009

Writer/Editor: Linda Pfotenhauer Graphic Design: Sarah Banks, Kolobe Botswana Cartography: Department of Surveys and Mapping Travel COMPANION to... The Kgalagadi

Covering a full 84 percent of A land of singular, often hidden, Following a season of good rain, Botswana’s land area, the semi-arid beauty, the Kgalagadi is intensely the desert is transformed, covered with Kgalagadi terrain dominates most of alive with an astonishing diversity of lush, green grasses, and fl ooded pans Cthe country. plant and animal life. It has broad – a source of rebirth and rejuvenation Refuting the classical perception variations in vegetation, supporting for both humans and animals. of desert as a barren, vegetation-less, several savanna types, namely grass, Many desert animals, including useless land, the Kgalagadi (Kalahari) shrub and tree savanna. springbok, gemsbok, eland, and is rich in natural resources. These The Kgalagadi landscape often even the Kalahari lion, are supremely include its sweeping grasslands that appears as grassy plains dotted with adapted to its semi-arid conditions, feed not only its wildlife populations, low shrubs, interspersed with trees or and can live without water, though but also its swelling cattle herds belts of trees, which often stand on they will drink if water is available. (numbering approximately 2 million), sandy ridges. Though a newcomer’s fi rst Antelope derive their moisture by thus supporting the country’s third impression may be one of ‘sameness,’ feeding at night and early morning largest industry - cattle ranching, and there are subtle topographical (when plants regain moisture), by its mineral wealth, namely diamonds, interruptions to the desert’s essentially eating succulent plants (such as wild which have fostered and sustained fl at surface, including channels, watermelons or wild cucumbers), and dramatic economic growth for the fossil valleys, dune features and pan by remaining inactive during the heat past 35 years. depressions. of the day to conserve body moisture.

6 Kalahari lions appear to gain their moisture from the body fl uids of their prey. Other common Kgalagadi animal species include wildebeest, zebra, kudu, red hartebeest, duiker, steenbok, and the predators, lion, cheetah, leopard, and both spotted and brown hyena. The Kgalagadi is essentially a basin into which sediments have continually been deposited and covered with sand. It is a region of great ecological, vegetative, geomorphological and climatic diversity. At its northern reaches (Gabon, Congo and Zaire), the Kgalagadi lies in the humid tropics and is dominated by parts of the Congo drainage system. At its core, in Botswana and neighbouring countries (South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Angola), it is an arid to semi-arid region with little surface water. The Kgalagadi is the largest continuous area of sand on earth, touching nine African countries. With an approximate area of 2.5 million sq kms, it extends through 30 degrees of latitude and embraces several ecological zones. Within Botswana, the Kgalagadi embraces two unique geographical regions: the Makgadikgadi Pans, which research reveals to have been a huge prehistoric lake, suggesting that the Kgalagadi was at one time much wetter than it now is, and the wetland delta system of the Okavango. Human occupation of the Kgalagadi goes as far back as the Early Stone Age. Its Middle Stone Age inhabitants, the San, developed survival strategies superbly adapted to – and in harmony with - their environment, masterfully extracting food resources from both the land and animals. Today, settlements, including cattle farms, dot many areas of the desert. Five game reserves and national parks have been set aside in Botswana’s vast share of the Kgalagadi. These are: Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Khutse Game Reserve, Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve, Nxai Pan National Park, and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. All are remotely situated, separated by vast distances; and for many visitors, the sensation of unending space and pure isolation are the principle attractions; they are, in eff ect, the ultimate wilderness destinations.

Travel COMPANION to... Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve

Imagine – if you will – an area the fl amingos at Sowa and Nata Sanctuary. suggests that the Makgadikgadi is size of Portugal, largely uninhabited Flamingo numbers can run into the a relic of what was once one of the by humans. Its stark, fl at, featureless tens – and sometimes – hundreds of biggest inland lakes Africa has ever I terrain stretches – it would seem – thousands, and the spectacle can be had. to eternity, meeting and fusing with completely overwhelming. Africa’s most famous explorer, a milky-blue horizon. This is the The rainwater that pours down on Dr. David Livingstone, crossed these Makgadikgadi – an area of 12 000 sq the pans is supplemented by seasonal pans in the 19th century, guided by kms, part of the Kalahari Basin, yet river fl ows – the Nata, Tutume, a massive baobab, Chapman’s Tree – unique to it – one of the largest salt Semowane and Mosetse Rivers in the believed to be 3 000 to 4 000 years old, pans in the world. east, and in years of exceptional rains, and the only landmark for hundreds For much of the year, most of this the Okavango via the Boteti River in of miles around. Seeing this amazing desolate area remains waterless and the west. tree today, you are given entry to an extremely arid; and large mammals During this time, the pans can era when much of the continent was are thus absent. But during and be transformed into a powder blue uncharted, and explorers often risked following years of good rain, the two lake, the waters gently lapping the their lives navigating the wilderness largest pans – Sowa to the east and shorelines, and fl owing over the on oxcarts through rough and grueling Ntwetwe to the west – fl ood, attracting pebble beaches – a clear indication terrain. wildlife – zebra and wildebeest on the of the gigantic, prehistoric lake the The Makgadikgadi is in fact a grassy plains – and most spectacularly Makgadikgadi once was. Research series of pans, the largest of which are

9 Sowa and Ntwetwe, both of which are surrounded by a myriad of smaller pans. North of these two pans are Kudiakam Pan, Nxai Pan and Kaucaca Pan. Interspersed between the pans are sand dunes, rocky islands and peninsulas, and desert terrain. No vegetation can grow on the salty surface of the pans, but the fringes are covered with grasslands. Massive baobab trees populate some fringe areas – and their silhouettes create dramatic landscapes against a setting sun. The Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve – with an area of 3 900 sq kms – incorporates the western end of Ntwetwe, extensive grasslands and acacia woodland. At its northern boundary, it meets the Nxai Pan National Park, separated only by the Nata- Maun Road. In the wet season, this reserve can off er good wildlife viewing, particularly when large herds of zebra and wildebeest begin their westward migration to the Boteti region. Other species include gemsbok, eland and red hartebeest, as well as kudu, bushbuck, duiker, giraff e, springbok, steenbok, and even elephant, with all the accompanying predators, as well as the rare brown hyena. Humans have inhabited areas of the pans since the Stone Age, and have adapted to geographical and climatic changes as they have occurred. Archaeological sites on the pans are rich with Early Man’s tools, and the bones of the fi sh and animals he ate. Human inhabitation has continued to the present day; and a number of villages, including Mopipi, Mmatshumo, Nata, Gweta and Rakops, are situated on the fringes of the pans.

KUBU ISLAND

One of the most popular destinations on the Makgadikgadi is Kubu Island, a rocky outcrop near the south-western shore of Sowa Pan. This crescent-shaped island is about one kilometre long, and its slopes are littered with fossil beaches of rounded pebbles, an indication of the prehistoric lake’s former water levels. Many rocks on the island are covered in fossilised guano, from the water birds that once perched here.

10 Fantastically shaped baobabs communities – Nata, Maphosa, In the peak season, birding, and perch on the island, and they are Sepako and Manxotae. It is a good even game viewing, can be good. surrounded by the white salt surface example of a non-consumptive When there is water in the pans, of the pan, making for a unique other- means of wildlife utilisation that thousands of fl amingos, pelicans, worldly atmosphere. brings direct fi nancial benefi t to local ducks and geese congregate, and the Apart from the eerie isolation of communities. Proceeds from tourism scene is indeed awe-inspiring. An this remote area - and its awesome activities in the sanctuary are shared elevated hide provides an unbeatable beauty, Kubu is rich in archaeological by the four communities for whatever panorama of the pans. and historical remains that chronicle development projects they decide both early human inhabitation and they want and need. more recent history. About 3 000 head of cattle belonging Stone Age tools and arrowheads to members of these four communities can still be found today along the were voluntarily moved out of the area ACTIVITIES shorelines of this tiny island; and a for the establishment of the sanctuary. circular stone wall and stone cairns Nata Sanctuary opened its gates to the Game drives suggest that Kubu may have been public in 1993, and in the same year Birding part of the outer reaches of the Great was awarded the Tourism for Tomorrow Zimbabwe empire that was centred at award for the southern hemisphere. Walks with the San Masvingo in modern-day Zimbabwe. Covering an area of 250 sq kms – Walks with the meerkats comprising both grasslands and pans, Quad-biking the pans NATA SANCTUARY in an important environmentally Historical sites sensitive area – the sanctuary Botswana’s fi rst community-based off ers easy access to the pans, and Archaeological sites conservation project is managed pleasant, reasonably priced camping Village tour of Gweta and staff ed by residents of four local facilities.

11 Travel COMPANION to... Nxai Pan National Park

Part of the great Makgadikgadi Common species to be sighted are Thomas Baines, are situated on a complex, Nxai Pan National Park zebra, wildebeest, springbok, impala, promontory or island overlooking Pcovers an area of 2 100 sq kms, and gemsbok, hartebeest, giraff e, lion, and surrounded by the white, crusty comprises several larger pans – Nxai cheetah, wild dog, brown hyena, bat- Kudiakam Pan. Pan, Kgama-Kgama Pan and Kudiakam eared fox, and sometimes elephant Baines stood here over a hundred Pan, which were once ancient salt and buff alo. years ago and painted this other- lakes. These larger pans are now The park is one of the more worldly scene. It has essentially grassed, and are scattered with islands accessible areas of the Makgadikgadi, remained unchanged. of acacia trees, and smaller pans that a mere 50 kms from the Nata-Maun Thomas Baines was an explorer, fi ll with water during the rainy season Road. artist, naturalist and cartographer. He – thus providing rich resources for and fellow explorer James Chapman wildlife. BAINES’ BAOBABS travelled through this area during Wildlife viewing is seasonal, and their two-year journey from Namibia dependent on if and when the rains Approximately 30 kms from the Nxai to Victoria Falls (1861-63). come, and when animals migrate. Pan National Park entrance, Baines’ They travelled in horse-drawn There are several artifi cial watering Baobabs are a highlight for any visitor wagons and on foot, accompanied and points. If the rains have been good, travelling this area of Botswana. led at diff erent times by Hottentots, December to April is the best time to Seven huge, gnarled baobab trees, Damaras (a tribe from Namibia) and San. visit. named after the 19th century explorer They encountered numerous diffi culties,

12 including the harshness of the desert, Baines’ painting of the small island thirst, hunger, illness, and more than of baobabs shows covered wagons, once, desertion by their guides, who people tending their horses, and a made off with their supplies. huge baobab bursting with leaves. Despite all this, Baines’ account of ‘We walked forward to the big tree, the journey is fi lled with appreciation the Mowana at Mamu ka Hoorie, and of the beauty of Africa. ‘I confess,’ he found the country much improved,’ wrote, ‘I can never quite get over the Baines wrote of the gloriously shaded feeling that the wonderful products area. of nature are objects to be admired Baines’ diaries, sketches, drawings rather than destroyed; and this, I am and paintings provide fascinating afraid, sometimes keeps me looking fi rst-hand documentation of that most at a buck when I ought to be minding decisive era in the history of southern my hindsights.’ Africa.

13 Travel COMPANION to... Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Nothing prepares you for the remotely situated reserve in southern the draw. immensity of this reserve, nor its Africa, and the second largest wildlife The landscape is dominated by Nwild, mysterious beauty. There is the reserve in the world, encompassing silver terminalia sandveldt, Kalahari immediate impression of unending 52 800 sq kms. sand acacias, and Kalahari appleleaf, space, and having the entire reserve During and shortly after good interspersed with grasslands, and to yourself. summer rains, the fl at grasslands of dotted with occasional sand dunes, Waist-high golden grasses seem to the reserve’s northern reaches teem pans and shallow fossil river valleys. stretch interminably, punctuated by with wildlife, which gather at the best CKGR is unique in that it was dwarfed trees and scrub bushes. Wide grazing areas. These include large originally established (in 1961) with and empty pans appear as vast white herds of springbok and gemsbok, as the intention of serving as a place of stretches of saucer-fl at earth, meeting well as wildebeest, hartebeest, eland sanctuary for the San, in the heart of a soft, blue-white sky. At night the and giraff e. the Kalahari (and Botswana), where stars utterly dominate the land; their At other times of the year, when the they could live their traditional hunter/ brilliance and immediacy are totally animals are more sparsely distributed, gatherer way of life, without intrusion, arresting. the experience of travelling through or infl uence, from the outside world. The Central Kalahari Game truly untouched wilderness, of The reserve was closed for about Reserve (CKGR) is the largest, most seemingly unending dimensions, is 30 years, until in the 1980s and

14 1990s, both self-drive and organised tours were allowed in, albeit in small, tightly controlled numbers. The Botswana Government has initiated plans to develop tourism away from the Okavango and Chobe areas, and has allocated concessions for lodge construction, both at the peripheries of and inside the reserve, allowing for fl y-in tourists. The northern Deception Valley is one of the highlights, principally because of the dense concentrations of herbivores its sweet grasses attract during and after the rainy season (and of course the accompanying predators). It is also the most travelled area of the reserve, with a number of public campsites, and proximity to the eastern Matswere Gate. The other two gates are completely at the other side of the reserve, at Xade and Tsau, where public campsites are also available. Other worthwhile areas to drive are Sunday and Leopard Pans, north of Deception Valley, Passarge Valley, and, further south, Piper’s Pan. Travel COMPANION to... Khutse Game Reserve

Because of its proximity, and relative northeast to fi ll the prehistoric Lake at artifi cial waterholes at Moreswa accessibility, to the nation’s capital, Makgadikgadi. Khutse’s pans and dry and Molose, making for good game BKhutse Game Reserve is a favourite river valleys are remnants of this river viewing year round. retreat for Gaborone visitors or system. Animals commonly sighted residents. The 240 kms drive takes Offi cially declared a protected include springbok (often in the traveller through a number of area in 1971, Khutse (meaning ‘place abundance), gemsbok (often common), interesting Kalahari villages, including where you can kneel down and giraff e, wildebeest, hartebeest, kudu, the ‘Gateway to the Kalahari,’ drink’) was the second game reserve black-backed jackal, steenbok, duiker, Molepolole. in Botswana to be established on and the accompanying predators lion, Adjoining the Central Kalahari tribal land (Moremi Game Reserve in leopard, cheetah, smaller cats, and Game Reserve to the north, and with the Okavango was the fi rst). the endangered brown hyena. no fences separating the two, the There is a series of rather There are several delightful loops terrain of the 2 500 sq kms reserve picturesque pans (signposted) where worth driving through the reserve. combines most types of Kalahari wildlife often congregate, particularly The shorter drive is the northern loop habitat – rolling grasslands, river during and following good rains; around Sekhushwe and Mohurusile beds, fossil dunes and grassed and and indeed game drives are focused Pans, approximately 24 kms from the bare pans. around the pans. These include the reserve headquarters. The longer drive The reserve is part of an ancient Motailane, Moreswa and Molose is to Moreswa Pan, about 64 kms from river system that once fl owed Pans. Sometimes water is pumped the headquarters, or a 120 kms loop.

16 The San and Bakgalagadi peoples – the Kgalagadi’s original inhabitants – live in small villages on the periphery of the reserve. Their traditional arts and crafts can usually be purchased here; and walks with the San can be arranged at the Khutse Kalahari Lodge, about 10 kms before the reserve entrance.

ACTIVITIES

Game drives Camping Bush walks with the San Arts and crafts shopping Travel COMPANION to... Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

History was made when Botswana This immense wilderness (37 000 depart in the other. The main entry and a newly liberated, democratic sq kms) is now shared by both and departure point between the `HSouth Africa signed in 1999 a treaty countries as a protected area, and two countries is at the Two Rivers/ to form the fi rst transfrontier peace is jointly managed. The entire park Twee Rivieren gate, which also has park in Africa. is completely unfenced, allowing camping facilities, chalets, shops and Plans to formalise the joint for wildlife to move freely along the a restaurant. management and development of ancient migration routes so necessary The national boundary with South South Africa’s Kalahari Gemsbok for their survival in the desert. Africa is along the dry Nossop River National Park and Botswana’s Situated in the extreme southwest bed; and three quarters of the park lies Gemsbok National Park were corner of Botswana, and adjacent within Botswana territory. Currently, proposed as early as 1989, but to South Africa’s Northern Cape KTP is mainly visited by self-drive no such partnership was possible Province, the Kgalagadi Transfrontier campers, with a few operators off ering during South Africa’s dark years of Park (KTP) is run as a single ecological mobile tours. apartheid. Following South Africa’s unit, and gate receipts are shared. At the time of going to print, the independence in 1994, and with the Tourist facilities, however, are still run Botswana government had allocated support and encouragement of the autonomously. fi ve fi xed lodge sites for development Peace Parks Foundation, negotiations Immigration and customs facilities by the private sector. concretised; and in May 2002, the have been designed to allow travellers There are three main areas to park was offi cially opened. to enter the park in one country and explore: the Nossop River valley,

18 along the South Africa/Botswana border, the wilderness trails on the Botswana side, and what was once the Mabuasehube Game Reserve, now incorporated into KTP at its most northeastern reaches. To maintain KTP’s pure wilderness experience, there are strict limits as to the number of vehicles that can travel the wilderness trails, how many nights a camping party can stay at a campsite (usually limited to one night), and how many people can camp at each campsite. Hence booking well in advance is essential. Self-drive campers must comprise reserve. Campsites dot the various at least two vehicles; well-equipped pans, and many are situated on slight 4x4s are required for the rough, sandy promontories, giving almost unimpeded roads. vision, thus making for good game KTP’s very beautiful terrain viewing right from your camp-side comprises fossil river valleys dotted chair. with dwarfed trees and bushes, Three of the largest pans lie along grasslands and diff erent coloured sand the main road; these are Bosobogolo, dunes. Wildlife is abundant, and the Mpayathutlwa and Mabuasehube. animals are attracted to waterholes Others, like Leshologago, Khiding along the otherwise dry riverbed. and the fossil valley complex called Several species of antelope, Monamodi, are linked to the larger pans including the ubiquitous springbok by sand tracks. and gemsbok, hartebeest, and eland Each pan is diff erent. The fl oor of can be seen, as well as the famous Mabuasehube Pan is bare clay that is black-maned Kalahari lion, jackal, rich in salts, and this attracts animals brown hyena, and wild cats. that come to lick the surface, deriving Rich birding is always part of the essential minerals from it. The fl oor experience. Over 170 species of birds of Bosobogolo Pan is short, shrubby have been recorded here, and it is grassland, which antelope frequent not uncommon to see over 30 bird to graze, accompanied, of course, by species within a few kilometres of the predators. campsite. All of the major predators can be At Mabuasehube, the terrain is a seen at Mabuasehube, including the mixture of typical Kgalagadi tree and Kalahari black-maned lion, cheetah, shrub savanna with patches of wide leopard, brown hyena, bat-eared fox, open grass savanna. lynx, and silver fox. Small mammals, This area of KTP comprises a like the Cape fox, aardwolf and black- series of exceptionally large pans, footed cat can be seen at the pans in the which are the principle focus of the evening. Travel COMPANION to... Ghanzi

Ghanzi is the centre of the cattle inhabitants), the Herero, the Batawana, who share their ancient way of life that farming industry in Botswana. and the Afrikaaners who fi rst settled in masterfully and respectfully exploited GOver 200 cattle farms, comprising the area in the late 1800s. Afrikaans is the food and water resources of the approximately six percent of the the lingua franca, and you might feel desert. national land, are backed one against that you are in a tiny South African Some lodges off er up-market the other in largely fenced holdings. dorp in the northern Cape. accommodation in rondavels or This part of Botswana is regarded East of this extensive area of farms chalets, whilst others give tourists as one of the best cattle ranging areas lies the vast Central Kalahari Game the opportunity to experience the in the world, renowned for the high Reserve (CKGR); and in between lies traditional way of life of Kalahari quality, free roaming beef it produces. a 58 kms ‘no man’s land,’ a buff er hunter/gatherers – sleeping in grass In fact, Ghanzi farmers provide 75 zone between wildlife and the farms, huts, albeit with amenities. percent of the beef that the Botswana and between Kalahari predators and The Kuru Dance Festival, held Meat Commission (BMC) exports, livestock. every year in August, features the primarily to the United Kingdom and Several cattle farmers have traditional song and dance of Kalahari the European Union (EU). Beef is the developed game ranches and wildlife dwellers, and brings visitors from all third largest industry in the country. concessions – land allocated near over the world. The Ghanzi community is a their farms – and tourists come for The festival is organised by the conglomeration of ethnic groups – wildlife viewing, excursions to CKGR, Kuru D’Kar Trust, part of the Kuru the San and Bakgalagadi (the original and desert walks with the San people, Family of Organisations (KFO, seven

20 in all) which state their goal as the promotion of San culture. This trust also sponsors and promotes the paintings of very gifted San artists, many of whom have exhibited and sold overseas. Nature, and humans’ relationship to it, is an over-riding theme in these wildly colourful and imaginative oil paintings. An elderly woman named Dada, recently deceased, was the group’s most internationally acclaimed painter. Another Kuru Family organisation, Gantsicraft, aims to create income generation opportunities for rural dwellers in the district by promoting and marketing (locally and internationally) their arts and crafts. It houses a shop in the centre of Ghanzi and off ers quality, authentic San arts and crafts, including ostrich eggshell jewellery and belts, hunting sets, fi re sticks, leather items, carvings, and traditional musical instruments.

21 Travel COMPANION to... Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Aff ording the opportunity to see both KRS was established in 1989 due more rhinos came from the North West black and white rhino - as well as an to growing concern over the then National Parks in South Africa. abundance of other wildlife species escalating rhino poaching situation in The highly endangered black rhino A– the Khama Rhino Sanctuary (KRS) Botswana. Both black and white rhino was re-introduced in 2002. is a delightful stopover for tourists – once abundant in Botswana – were The gamble paid off , and both travelling by road to Botswana’s during the early 1980s on the brink of species are doing well, under the northern reserves, or an ideal weekend local extinction, despite their having watchful eye of sanctuary staff as well getaway for Gaborone or Francistown been granted protected status as far as the Botswana Defence Force (BDF), visitors or residents. back as 1922. who assist with the constant patrolling A mere 20 kms from the historically Led by the Bangwato Paramount of the sanctuary’s borders. important village of Serowe, the Chief, the then Lt. Gen. Seretse Khama To date, KRS has 35 white rhino, accessibility of KRS is also a draw. This Ian Khama, and other conservationists, and is serving as a source for their community tourism project, managed the people of Serowe conceived the re-introduction back to the Moremi and staff ed by local village residents, idea to form a sanctuary to protect Game Reserve, the Makgadikgadi, off ers game drives, birding, bush walks, the remaining rhinos in Botswana, the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, and and arts and crafts shopping. It also and hopefully give them safe haven to elsewhere. And - much to the credit of has an education centre where many reproduce and gain numbers. KRS staff – the male and female black young children from all over Botswana The fi rst four white rhinos were re- rhinos have mated, and the sanctuary’s come for environmental education, as introduced into the sanctuary from the fi rst baby black rhino was born in well as a fun time in the bush. Chobe National Park in 1992. Eight 2008!

22 Travel COMPANION to... Serowe

In many ways, the sprawling village/ Today you can visit the then London At the kgotla – the traditional town of Serowe is an important Missionary Society (LMS) church, its meeting place and customary court, custodian of Botswana’s contemporary tall steeple still an important landmark situated below Serowe Hill, there I history. for the town, as it was for missionaries, stands an impressive statue of Sir During the days of the prospectors and explorers who came Seretse Khama, erected to mark the Bechuanaland protectorate (1885 from far and wide. The massive church tenth anniversary of his death. onwards), it was a point of settlement was reconstructed with the original The Khama III Memorial Museum – for European missionaries and stones it had fi rst been built with in named after Seretse’s father, who died traders. Two giant leadwood trees – Old Palapye. when Seretse was young – is housed still standing near the dirt trail once Serowe is the birthplace of the in a red Victorian building, recently used by early travellers – were road country’s founding father – and fi rst restored, and containing a fascinating markers. President – Sir Seretse Khama. And collection of furniture, uniforms, Serowe was a place of refuge for much of the drama of his controversial correspondence and photographs that the Ngwato nation, who migrated marriage to an Englishwoman, Ruth chronicle the legacy of the Khama from Old Palapye in 1902 to the green Williams, was played out in this village. family, and the history of Serowe. and fertile region that was surrounded Today their graves are situated near For arts and crafts lovers, there are – and thus protected – by hills. It the Ngwato totem, the duiker (phuti in shopping opportunities at the Boithselo grew to such a size that for years it Setswana) in the royal cemetery. (You Project where the Bakgalagadi and was called the largest village in sub- must obtain permission to visit these San peoples manufacture attractive Saharan Africa. sites). and unique products.

23 Botswana at a Glance

LOCATION: Botswana is a land-locked country situated in southern Africa. It borders South Africa, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Approximately two-thirds of the country lies within the Tropics. COUNTRY SIZE: Botswana covers an area of 581 730 square kilometres – about the size of France or Kenya. TOPOGRAPHY: Most of the country is flat, with some small hills in the eastern areas. Kalahari sands cover 84 percent of the surface area. With the exception of the northern areas, most of Botswana is without perennial surface water. CAPITAL: Gaborone URBAN CENTRES: Francistown, Lobatse, Selebi-Phikwe TOURISM CENTRES: Maun, Kasane INDEPENDENCE DAY: 30 September 1966 GOVERNMENT: Multi-party democracy HEAD OF STATE: His Excellency Lt. Gen. Seretse Khama Ian Khama POPULATION: 1.85 million, with an average annual growth rate of 2.4 % (2006 statistics) NATIONAL LANGUAGE: Setswana OFFICIAL LANGUAGE: English CURRENCY: Pula MAIN EXPORTS: Diamonds, copper nickel, beef, soda ash, tourism MAJOR CROPS: Maize, sorghum, millet Visitor Information

Accommodation 30 Firewood 32 National Parks – Central Botswana 31 Banks and Banking Hours 29 Fishing 32 National Parks – Northern Botswana 31 Boats (importing) 27 Gaborone Game Reserve 31 National Parks – Southern Botswana 31 Central Kalahari Game Reserve 31 Gazetted Border Posts 26 National Parks – Western Botswana 31 Chobe National Park 31 Getting Around in Towns 26 Nxai Pan National Park 31 Communications 28 Getting There 26 Offi ce Hours 29 Consumer Goods (importing) 28 Health 29 Pets (importing) 27 Credit cards 29 HIV/AIDS 30 Plants (importing) 28 Crime 30 Importation of Goods 28 Restricted Goods (importing) 28 Currency 29 Khutse Game Reserve 31 Safety 30 Customs 27 Luggage Restrictions 27 Self Drive Camping 32 Diamond Purchase 29 Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve 31 Shopping 30 Distance Chart 33 Malaria 30 Sun and Heat-Related Problems 30 Drinking Water 30 Mannyelanong Game Reserve 31 Time 29 Drivers’ Licenses 27 Maun Educational Park 31 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park 31 Duty Free Allowances 27 Meat / Dairy Products (importing) 28 Travel Insurance 29 Electrical Supply 29 Money 29 Vaccinations 27 Emergency Numbers 32 Moremi Game Reserve 31 Value Added Tax 30 Entry Formalities 26 Motor Vehicles (importing) 27 What to Bring 28 Firearms & Ammunition 29 National Parks & Reserves 31 What to Wear 28

25 Travel COMPANION

South African Express BY RAIL GETTING THERE Tel: 267 397-2397 From South Africa or Zimbabwe, Web: www.fl ysax.com Botswana can be reached via a railway BY AIR line that runs along the eastern part of Air Botswana, Botswana’s national and BY ROAD the country, passing through Lobatse, only airline, provides international Botswana is accessible by tarred road Gaborone and Francistown. Tickets for fl ights to Johannesburg, and Harare and from South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia various classes of passenger travel can be domestic fl ights to Francistown, Maun and Namibia. Vehicles are driven on purchased at any of the station offi ces or and Kasane. the left hand side of the road. A valid on the train. Reservations can be made at international driver’s license, along the railway station in Gaborone 267 395- Air Namibia fl ies to Maun everyday of with vehicle registration documents, 1401 and Francistown 267 241-3444. the week except Tuesday and Thursday. are required to drive in Botswana, and Air Charter services are also available. drivers should always carry them. For more information consult: The Botswana Railways website: Both Air Botswana and South African Most major roads in Botswana are tarred www.botswanarailways.co.bw Express have daily fl ights to Gaborone. and driving conditions are generally Air Botswana has daily fl ights from good. The main roads to established GETTING AROUND IN TOWNS Johannesburg to Maun. South African areas are regularly graded. Four-wheel Taxis are normally a convenient way to get Express will begin Johannesburg to Maun drive is required when travelling in the around in towns and are reasonably priced. fl ights in 2009. national parks and reserves, as well as They are easily identifi ed in designated in remote areas. stations or can be contacted by telephone. Most major international airlines Taxis to Gaborone are also available from Sir from Europe, the United States, Asia Car and four-wheel drive rental services Seretse Khama International Airport. and Australia fl y into Johannesburg, are widely available in major tourist South Africa, where connecting fl ights centres, airports and hotels. can be booked to Sir Seretse Khama ENTRY FORMALITIES International Airport in Gaborone or to BY BUS Maun. There are scheduled bus services VISAS across borders between Botswana and Citizens of most European and Common- For fl ight details contact: South Africa, Zimbabwe, Namibia and wealth countries do not require a visa for Air Botswana Central Reservations Zambia, as well as good internal bus entry into Botswana. Tel: 267 395-1921 services linking major and minor towns Web: www.airbotswana.bw and villages across the country. Visitors should check with Botswana embassies or consulates, or their travel agents, before departure. GAZETTED BORDER POSTS It is vital for visitors to carry a valid Ramatlabama 06h00–22h00 BOTSWANA /NAMIBIA passport and suffi cient funds to facilitate Pioneer Gate 06h00–00h00 their stay. Mamuno 07h00–00h00 McCarthy Rest 08h00–16h00 Ngoma 07h00–18h00 Note: For countries with whom Botswana Mohembo 06h00–18h00 BOTSWANA/ ZIMBABWE has no diplomatic representation, visa Kazungula 06h00–18h00 information and processing is available BOTSWANA / SOUTH AFRICA Pandamatenga 08h00–17h00 through British Embassies and High Pont Drift (Tuli) 08h00–16h00 Ramokgwebana 06h00–22h00 Commissions. Martin’s Drift 06h00–22h00 Tlokweng Gate 06h00–00h00 BOTSWANA / ZAMBIA Ramotswa (Bridge) 07h00–19h00 Kazungula (Ferry) 06h00–18h00

26 LUGGAGE RESTRICTIONS However, it would be wise to have an DUTY FREE ALLOWANCES It is advisable to adhere to the luggage updated TPD (tetanus, polio, diphtheria) restrictions for both scheduled international, vaccine, and a Hepatitis A vaccine. domestic and charter fl ights: 20kgs (44lbs) Customs duties are not charged on on domestic fl ights, 12kgs (26lbs) on light CUSTOMS the following goods imported as aircraft (including Okavango Delta charter All goods acquired outside Botswana must accompanied or unaccompanied fl ights), and 20kgs (44lbs) on international be declared when you enter the country. passengers’ baggage: fl ights. BOATS Wines ...... 2 litres VACCINATIONS No boat, mokoro or aquatic apparatus Spirituous*...... 1 litre If you are travelling to Botswana from may be imported into Botswana, unless areas infected with Yellow Fever, the owner is in possession of an import Cigarettes ...... 200 you must have a valid Yellow Fever permit issued by the Department of Cigars ...... 20 vaccination certifi cate. Otherwise, Water Aff airs. no other immunisations are required. Tobacco** ...... 250 gms Perfume ...... 50 ml For more information contact: Department of Water Aff airs Toilet water...... 250 ml CUSTOMS OFFICES P/Bag 0029, Gaborone Tel: 267 360-7100 * Includes all other alcoholic HEADQUARTERS beverages Private Bag 0041, Gaborone PETS ** Includes cigarette and pipe Tel: 267 363-8000 / 363-9999 The importation of animals is closely tobacco Fax: 267 392-2781 regulated for public health reasons and also for the well being of the animals. Note: Duty will be payable at the REGIONAL OFFICES Domestic pets and livestock may be applicable rates where travellers SOUTH REGION imported subject to animal health import goods exceeding the above P.O. Box 263, Lobatse restrictions. allowances. Travellers importing Tel: 267 533-0566, goods for business or commercial Fax: 267 533-2477 purpose will not qualify for the above For more information contact: allowances. SOUTH CENTRAL REGION Director of Animal Health & Production Private Bag 00102, Gaborone P/Bag 0032, Gaborone Tel: 267 363-8000 / 363-9999 Tel: 267 395-0500 Fax: 267 392-2781 IMPORTATION OF MOTOR VEHICLES Note: A valid certifi cate of identity, Non-residents visiting Botswana and CENTRAL REGION rabies vaccination and movement permit coming from a country outside the P.O. Box 129, Selebi Phikwe issued in Lesotho, Malawi, South Africa, Southern African Common Customs Tel: 267 261-3699 / 261-0627 Swaziland, Namibia or Zimbabwe will be Area for a limited period are normally Fax: 267 261-5367 accepted at the time of importation into required to produce a carnet or bill of NORTH REGION Botswana. entry (any duty liability thereon being P.O. Box 457, Francistown secured by bond or cash deposit) in Tel: 267 241-3635 DRIVERS’ LICENSES respect of their motor vehicles. For Fax: 267 241-3114 Drivers are required to carry their further information, please contact licenses at all times. Licenses from Department of Customs. NORTH WEST REGION neighbouring countries are accepted P.O. Box 219, Maun in Botswana. If not written in English, a Note: The Southern African Common Tel: 267 686-1312 certifi ed written translation is required. Customs Area comprises Botswana, Fax: 267 686-0194 International drivers’ licenses are Lesotho, South Africa, Swaziland and accepted in Botswana. Namibia.

27 Travel COMPANION

WHAT TO BRING IMPORTATION OF GOODS Binoculars, torch, insect repellent, lip salve, sunscreen, sunglasses. Cosmetics, CONSUMER GOODS For more information contact: Ministry of Agriculture, Enquiries medications, and cigarettes are all The following consumer goods may available in the major towns, but if P/Bag 003, Gaborone be imported for private use without Tel 267 395-0500 specifi c brand names are needed, it is an import permit, provided they do best to bring enough to last your stay. not exceed the maximum allowable MEAT / DAIRY PRODUCTS quantities. The regulations on importing meat However, care needs to be taken to Key: PP-per person. PF-per family comply with international aviation products change frequently, because security regulations for items in carry they are based on disease outbreaks on luggage. Contact your airline for PRODUCT MAX in diff erent countries. Always ask details. TYPE QUANTITY customs offi cials upon arrival what are the specifi c regulations. MEAT For more information contact: WHAT TO WEAR Red meat, goat/lamb 25 kg PF Poultry meat 5 kg PP Ministry of Agriculture, Enquiries Tinned poultry meat 20 kg PP P/Bag 003, Gaborone In summer, lightweight, light-coloured Tel 267 395-0500 cottons are preferable. Garments of neutral colours that blend with the DAIRY bush and forest are advisable for safaris Eggs 36 eggs PP RESTRICTED GOODS and game viewing. Avoid synthetic Fresh milk 2 litres PP These are goods that can only be materials and black clothing, as they imported with a license or permit. OTHERS increase perspiration and discomfort. t Narcotic, habit forming drugs and Maize / maize products 25 kg PP Bring a lightweight jacket and/or jersey related substances in any form; for unexpected temperature changes or Wheat 25 kg PP rain. Pulses (beans, peas, lentils) 25 kg PP t Firearms, ammunition and Sorghum / sorghum 25 kg PP explosives; products In winter, wear trousers, long-sleeved t Indecent and obscene material shirts and blouses and jerseys. From such as pornographic books, May – August, night temperatures can Cabbage, Onions 1 bag PP Potatoes, Oranges, magazines, fi lms, videos, DVDs fall below zero degrees celsius, so warm and software. jerseys and jackets are vital, especially Tomatoes, Chimolia, on early morning and evening game Rape, Spinach drives. Bread loaves 6 per week Closed, comfortable walking shoes or COMMUNICATIONS gym shoes are a must in all seasons. PLANTS Most of Botswana is networked by Special attention should be given to Plants may be imported subject to automatic telephone exchanges, with protection from the sun. Bring a sunhat, plant health restrictions, and South public telephones in even the most good quality sunscreen, sun lotion and African transit permits may also be remote places. polarised sunglasses. required in respect of plants shipped through South Africa. The International access code in Wide brimmed hats are preferable to Botswana is 00. When calling baseball caps. international to Botswana, dial + 267.

28 Cellular phone coverage is provided Travellers’ cheques and foreign currency of an import permit must be licensed by three mobile networks in Botswana: may be changed at banks, bureaux de immediately upon arrival in Botswana. Mascom, Orange and be Mobile. change, and authorised hotels. The importation of fi rearms that do not Mobile Sim cards are available in most have the manufacturer’s serial number supermarkets and service stations. All The US dollar, Euros, British Pound and or other number by which they can major towns in Botswana are network the South African Rand are the most be identifi ed, stamped or engraved on covered, as well as portions of the easily convertible currencies. a metal part of the weapon is totally national highway. prohibited. Automatic teller machines accept Mobile networks in Botswana off er foreign visa cards, but are mostly found It should also be noted that police various services to their subscribers, in larger towns and cities. Cultural sites permits for fi rearms are issued on a including Internet access, fax, and and community art and craft outlets limited quota basis, and there can be a International Roaming. It is always usually only accept cash. considerable delay in obtaining a permit, important to seek advice about network particularly on fi rst importation. It is services so as to choose one that will BANKS advisable for intending importers to make work for you. Seven main commercial banks, as applications well in advance of dispatch, well as a number of foreign exchange so that unnecessary inconvenience and Using a cellular phone whilst driving is bureaux, operate in Botswana. expenses can be avoided. against the law in Botswana, and liable to a P300 fi ne. Earphones or hands-free BANKING HOURS: Police permits for fi rearms are issued by: devices are recommended. Monday to Friday 8:30-15:30 Central Arms, The Registry Saturday 8:30 to 10:45. P O Box 334, Gaborone. For further information on the network Tel: + 267 391-4202, +267 391-4106 providers in Botswana, consult the CREDIT CARDS following services: Major credit cards, such as MasterCard and Visa, are accepted throughout the DIAMOND PURCHASE MASCOM www.mascom.co.bw country, in most hotels, restaurants, ORANGE www.orange-botswana.co.bw retail outlets and safari companies. Visitors to Botswana have the BTC www.btc.co.bw However, shops in remote areas and opportunity to purchase diamond be Mobile www.be-mobile.co.bw service stations may only accept cash. jewellery from authorised dealers. A strict certifi cation system is in place to inform the buyer of the origin of OFFICE HOURS TIME the diamond, and the stated value and Government Offi ces / Departments quality is verifi ed. GMT plus 2 hours 7:30 - 12:45 and 13:45 - 16:30 Business 8:00 - 13:00 and 14:00 - 17:00 HEALTH Shops 9:00 - 18:00 Monday to Friday, ELECTRICAL SUPPLY 9:00 - 15:00 Saturday 9:00 - 13:00 Sunday Botswana is one of the healthiest Electricity is supplied at 220/240v. Both countries in sub-Saharan Africa, with square and round wall plugs are used. good primary health care facilities MONEY available throughout the country. However, the following health CURRENCY FIREARMS & AMMUNITION precautions are advised. The Botswana currency is the Pula (meaning ‘rain’ in Setswana). It is The issue of fi rearms licenses in TRAVEL INSURANCE divided into 100 thebe (meaning Botswana is strictly controlled, and all It is essential for visitors to remote areas ‘shield’ in Setswana). fi rearms imported under the authority of Botswana to have a comprehensive

29 Travel COMPANION medical insurance policy, to provide and as certain strains can become drug should be more than P5 000. In such coverage for the treatment of serious resistant, it is best to seek medical cases, the following is required: a tax illnesses/accidents, and if required, advice before your departure and take invoice stating VAT paid, your passport medical evacuation. Personal eff ects any medication prescribed. Pregnant or number and your bank account details. insurance is also advisable. very young children are not advised to travel to malarial areas. It is always advisable to keep a copy of Check that your insurance policy will the VAT form as a record for any follow- be accepted by service providers in Other precautions are: to wear long up on the transaction. Botswana. Ensure that you are treated sleeves, socks, closed shoes, and by licensed medical personnel to enable generally keep the body covered, to VAT claims usually can be made at all you to provide your insurance company sleep with a mosquito net and to use major border posts and airports. with appropriate documentation and mosquito coils and repellent. receipts. SUN AND HEAT-RELATED PROBLEMS SAFETY Reasonably priced medical services Always take preventive measures that are available at government clinics include wearing a wide-brimmed sunhat The self-drive camper driving the open and hospitals throughout the country. and sunglasses, liberally applying roads in Botswana should always Private medical practitioners are sunscreen every three or four hours, drive at a reasonable speed, and avoid available in the cities and major towns, regularly taking rehydration mixes, over-taking, except when absolutely such as Gaborone, Francistown and drinking plenty of water and fruit juices necessary. Maun. Gaborone Private Hospital is (at least three litres of liquid daily), the largest private hospital in Botswana. avoiding prolonged exposure to the CRIME The hospital requires medical coverage, sun, and avoiding excessive amounts of Botswana remains a relatively safe place or cash payment in advance where alcohol, which causes dehydration. to visit or live. Take the normal precautions medical coverage is not available. you would take anywhere else:

DRINKING WATER SHOPPING t Always lock car doors; Tap water throughout the country is t Always lock hotel rooms; safe to drink. Bottled mineral water is All major towns in Botswana, including t Don’t leave valuables in cars or readily available in most shops and Maun and Kasane, have shopping hotel rooms; supermarkets, and at camps and lodges. centres and supermarkets, and all basic t Take care with your bags in shopping Tourists travelling by road are advised to commodities can easily be purchased. centres and other crowded places, carry suffi cient water at all times. Many regional chain stores operate in and after coming out of banks or Botswana. In addition, there are 24- ATM kiosks; HIV/AIDS hour convenience shops at most fuel t Avoid walking alone at night. Visitors are advised to take the necessary service stations. precautions against HIV/AIDS and other ACCOMMODATION Sexually Transmitted Diseases. There is an increasing range of local arts and crafts on sale in Gaborone, Maun All major towns and villages in the MALARIA and Kasane and other tourist areas; they country have hotels, lodges, motels Malaria, including cerebral malaria, is include Botswana’s renowned world- and guesthouses, catering to a range common in northern Botswana, in the class baskets, woodcarvings, jewellery, of budgets, and some have camping Okavango and Chobe areas, particularly pottery, tapestries, fabrics and clothing, facilities. In and around parks and during and immediately following the glassware, and San crafts. reserves, there are a variety of lodges, as rainy season, from November to April. well as camps in private concessions. VALUE ADDED TAX As the strains of malaria, and the drugs To claim 10% VAT refund for total value Camping facilities are widely available used to combat them, frequently change, of goods purchased, the amount spent around the country, both at private

30 lodges and/or hotels, and within the NORTHERN BOTSWANA CENTRAL BOTSWANA government parks and reserves. CHOBE NATIONAL PARK CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE A park abundant in wildlife, off ering a The world’s second largest reserve, Visit www.botswanatourism.co.bw for safari experience of a lifetime. holding vast open plains, scrub bush, salt graded accommodation facilities. Size: 11 700 km2 pans, ancient riverbeds, and sand dunes. When to visit: all year round Size: 52 800 km2 Rainfall: 600mm per annum When to visit: all year round NATIONAL PARKS & RESERVES Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level Climate: Hot, dry conditions Rainfall: 150mm per annum Botswana’s extensive system of national MOREMI GAME RESERVE Altitude: 600m to 1600m above sea level parks and game reserves comprises Described as one of the most beautiful approximately 17% of national land wildlife reserves in Africa. KHUTSE GAME RESERVE area. A further 18% of national land Size: 5 000 km2 Characterised by undulating plains is allocated as Wildlife Management When to Visit: all year round and dry Kalahari bush savannah, with Areas which act as buff er zones around Climate: Temperatures range from an extensive mineral pan system in the the parks and reserves. about 14o Celsius (July) to 24o Celsius reserve, which attracts animals. (January) Size: 2,500 km2 The parks are primarily unfenced, Rainfall: 525mm per annum, varying When to visit: all year round allowing wildlife to freely roam, are Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level situated in a variety of habitats and for WESTERN BOTSWANA the most part are well managed. NXAI PAN NATIONAL PARK KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK Once part of a prehistoric lake that Famous for its large antelope herds, Camping facilities are available in all covered central Botswana, this park this is Africa’s fi rst peace park, where national parks and reserves. Campsites is now transformed into fossil pans animals roam freely across the national typically have standpipes and ablution covered with grassland that attract an borders of Botswana and South Africa. blocks, with toilets and showers. abundance of game. Size: 36 000 km2 Size: 2 578 km2 When to visit: all year round All camping in the national parks and When to visit: all year round Climate: Hot, dry conditions reserves is in designated campsites, Climate: Hot, extreme daytime Rainfall: 200mm per annum, varying and campers are not allowed to camp conditions Altitude: 900m to 1100m above sea level elsewhere in the parks. MAKGADIKGADI PANS GAME RESERVE SOUTHERN BOTSWANA Reservations for camping in national Part of one of the world’s largest saltpans GABORONE GAME RESERVE parks and reserves should be made and prehistoric lakes. Nestled in the city and a popular spot 2 prior to departure. Size: 12 000 km for city residents, the park off ers game When to visit: all year round and bird viewing, picnic sites and an For park camping reservations, contact: Climate: Hot, extreme daytime education centre. Department of Wildlife & National Parks conditions Size: 500 Hectares Gaborone Offi ce: P.O. Box 131, Gaborone Rainfall: 500mm per annum When to visit: all year round Tel: 267 318-0774, Fax: 267 391-2354 Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level Rainfall: 510mm per annum Maun Offi ce: P.O. Box 11, Maun Altitude: 970m above sea level Tel: 267 686-1265, Fax: 267 686-1264 MAUN EDUCATIONAL PARK Situated on the eastern banks of the MANNYELANONG GAME RESERVE Offi ces can be emailed on [email protected] Thamalakane River, the park is an The name of the park derives from the education centre for schoolchildren; it Cape Vulture, an endangered bird that Note: If you cannot honour your has a variety of wildlife species that can is protected; the area is fenced and the reservations, please cancel well in advance be viewed from game hides. birds can only be viewed from afar. to give others a chance. When to visit: all year round When to visit: all year round

31 Travel COMPANION

away all rubbish until you get to the allowed in designated areas of the SELF DRIVE CAMPING next town. national parks, and only with an offi cial permit. Embarking on a camping trip in t Cigarette butts should be well Botswana requires a good deal of extinguished and placed in a rubbish For fi shing permit enquiries, contact: planning and preparation. You will be bag, not thrown on the ground. Department of Wildlife & National Parks going to remote areas, accessible only t Make sure the campfi re is well Gaborone Offi ce: P.O. Box 131, by four-wheel drive, where water, petrol extinguished at the end of the Gaborone or food may not be available. You may evening, or after use, and cover it Tel: 267 397-1405 often be driving on rough terrain, and with sand. Fax: 267 391-2354 / 393-2205 through heavy sand, in conditions very Maun Offi ce: P.O Box 11, Maun diff erent from those you are used to. t Don’t sleep on bridges or animal Tel: 267 686-0368, Fax: 267 686-0053 paths, particularly those of elephants Kasane Offi ce: P.O. Box 17, Kasane As a general rule, take all food and hippos. Tel: 267 625-0486, Fax: 267 625-1623 requirements to last your stay. Take Note: Permits must be applied for in t Bury all faecal matter and burn all person. Both monthly and annual permits at least 20 litres of water per person, toilet paper. are issued. preferably more; for desert destinations, t Don’t bathe or drink from still bodies carry between 50 and 100 litres. Carry FIREWOOD at least 100 litres of petrol in long-range of water; there is the danger of bilharzia. Firewood is defi ned as wood that is tanks or in metal jerry tins. Take spare both dead and fallen and which can vehicle parts for breakdowns. t In the Okavango, don’t swim in be removed without the use of tools. lagoons or streams; there is the Self-drive campers should use fi rewood As campsites within game reserves and danger of crocodiles and/or hippos. sparingly and only when necessary. national parks are usually not fenced, it is important for campers to take necessary t Children must be constantly precautionary measures to ensure their supervised. Never leave them alone safety, and to abide by the information in the campsite. Never allow children provided by wildlife offi cers. to nap on the ground or in the open. EMERGENCY NUMBERS Don’t stray far from the campsite, The following basic camping rules t or walk in the bush, unless with a Ambulance 997 (toll free) should be strictly heeded: qualifi ed guide. Police 999 (toll free) t Only camp in designated campsites. The general rule of thumb for camping Fire Brigade 998 (toll free) in Botswana is - take only memories, t Always sleep in your tent, roof tent leave only footprints. Medical Rescue 911 (toll free) or vehicle. Make sure your tent zips Medical Air Rescue 390-1601 up well. FISHING t Don’t sleep with legs or arms In the Panhandle area of the Okavango, Mascom 122 protruding from the tent. there are a number of camps and lodges Orange 112 that specialise in fi shing excursions. t Use rubbish receptacles at the Fishing can also be done on the Chobe be mobile 1333 campsites; if there are none, carry River, outside the park. Fishing is only

32 Distance Chart (kms)

Baine’s Drift

275 Francistown

418 436 Gaborone

1083 769 665 Gantsi

561 286 722 483 Gweta

580 597 162 503 986 Jwaneng

817 828 399 265 748 238 Kang

508 525 90 581 811 78 316 Kanye

766 492 927 786 402 1089 1051 1017 Kasane

766 552 117 541 1024 215 276 143 1044 Letlhakeng

490 507 72 631 793 128 366 50 999 188 Lobatse

247 235 201 858 521 362 593 268 726 317 272 Mahalapye

113 274 331 989 560 493 723 421 766 448 403 134 Martin’s Drift

764 490 887 279 204 782 544 860 507 820 959 687 726 Maun

469 486 51 607 772 149 342 77 978 66 122 251 382 938 Molepolole

462 188 623 581 98 785 846 713 304 740 695 423 462 302 674 Nata

475 229 528 636 1069 696 902 618 703 645 600 327 366 357 579 399 Orapa

223 163 272 930 449 434 664 362 655 389 344 72 111 615 323 351 256 Palapye

661 386 822 1073 297 983 1339 912 105 938 893 621 660 500 872 198 597 550 Pandamatenga

497 515 79 639 801 136 374 58 1007 196 8 280 411 967 130 703 607 352 901 Pioneer Gate

611 385 660 506 251 822 772 750 653 777 732 459 498 227 711 350 130 388 548 739 Rakops

539 557 121 672 843 169 407 91 1048 238 49 322 452 1008 172 744 649 393 943 57 781 Ramatabama

452 469 34 668 755 217 403 93 961 151 58 235 365 921 84 657 562 306 856 66 694 108 Ramotswa

129 146 407 1028 432 568 799 497 638 523 478 206 151 749 457 334 390 134 532 486 522 528 441 Selibe-Phikwe

268 208 317 849 494 478 709 407 699 433 388 116 155 570 367 396 211 45 594 396 343 438 351 179 Serowe

1141 866 1263 524 580 1027 789 1105 982 1065 1155 1063 1102 376 1131 678 734 991 877 1163 603 1196 1192 1012 947 Shakawe

934 952 516 628 1111 355 362 433 1444 570 483 717 848 907 504 1140 1044 789 1338 491 1176 524 520 923 833 1152 Tsabong

26 248 392 1087 534 553 784 482 740 508 463 202 86 808 442 436 449 193 634 471 581 513 426 102 238 1184 908 Zanzibar

33 Notes

34 Notes

35 CREDITS:

Cover photo montage: “Kalahari Lion” & “San Bushman”, courtesy of Grassland Safari Lodge; “Meercat”, Fabio Chironi.

Inside front cover: Jan Broekhuis. Inside back cover: David Luck.

Pages 2-3: Gert Stephan. Pages 4-5: Top left to right: Gert Stephan; Greg Hughes; Greg Hughes; Fabio Chironi; Gert Stephan; Bottom left to right: Gert Stephan; Fabio Chironi; Gert Stephan. Page 6: Jan Broekhuis. Page 7: Top to bottom: Gert Stephan; Fabio Chironi; Jan Broekhuis. Page 8: Gert Stephan. Page 9: Clifford Ferreira. Page 10: Top to Bottom: Lee Whittam; Greg Hughes; Moamogedi Monwela. Page 11: Left: Graham McCulloch; Right: June Liversedge. Page 12: Fabio Chironi. Page 13: Fabio Chironi. Page 14: Gert Stephan. Page 15: Gert Stephan. Page 16: Gert Stephan. Page 17: Left: Gert Stephan; Right: Sarah Banks. Page 18: Ignatio de las Cuevas. Page 18-1: Jan Broekhuis. Page 19: Jan Broekhuis. Page 20: Fabio Chironi. Page 21: Top left: Fabio Chironi; Top right: David Clift. Bottom: Fabio Chironi. Page 22: Fabio Chironi. Page 23: Caroline Banks. Page 24: Jan Broekhuis. Page 25: Greg Hughes.

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