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Home , Beceite, Cantavieja, Guadalope, Lower Aragon, Teruel

Alcañiz: Nearby drums

“He who was born in a fortunate hour did not delay, lands of Alcañiz he is laying waste to them and all around he loots everything; and on the third day from where he left, there he is returned.”

Cantar de Mío Cid

he March and April air is filled with the sound of the drums. We T can hear the waters of the , the Martarraña and the Martín rivers. We can discern the cry of the wounded wild boar in the Val LCAÑIZ del Charco caves in Agua Amarga. There is a smell of olives. We glimpse AAnd Its Parador La Estanca lake, we feel the harmony… We are in Alcañiz. Here the hills dip down and the lands of slope to the east, descends, and Arabs, Jews and Christians rest. It is said that long ago, some 1680 years before Christ, King Brigo, great-great-great-grandson of Noah, great-great-grandson of Japhet, great-grandson of Tubal, grandson of Iberius and son of Aubaldo, here founded a town that was later to be known as Hercábrica. In the languages of the Phoenicians, Scythians, Egyptians and Caldeans: the town of Hercules, where, it is said, he was born.

The Romans rebuilt the town, calling it Ergávica, and it became a war zone in the struggle between the Empire and the Carthaginians. Neyo granted its inhabitants the immunity of Latin rights, and gave the town its own statutes. Coins even came to be minted here. This was a time of splendor for the town, surrounded by its impenetrable walls, where the old canal and the hills separate, and where with time the sanctuary of San Sebastian and Alcanit would be built.

But if there is history in Alcañiz, and to be sure, there is, it came with the settlers who stayed the longest: the Moors. The very name of the town comes from an Arabic word meaning ‘wicker’ or ‘cane’. And from the Jewish settlers who stayed until the year the Americas were discovered.

By the 12th century, Alcañiz was feeling the call of freedom, but this desire was left unsatisfied due to the Encomienda Mayor de Calatrava. Previously, Ramón Bereguer IV, the true historic soul of the town, had granted it a people’s charter. Its fighting spirit finally overcame all limitations and by the 15th century, the community was flourishing and growing. Such exemplary buildings as the Exchange and the Town Hall were built during this time. They display a harmonious blend of styles: late Gothic and the ever elegant Renaissance.

Art and artists, wise men and scholars. A century later, the streets of Alcañiz would be trod by Juan Sobrarias, Pedro Ruiz de Moros, Bernardino Gómez Miedes, Juan Lorenzo Palminero and a long list of others. It saw poets of the Cinquecento influenced by the schools of and Italy. Topics ranging from law and medicine to poetry, painting and architecture were debated. Churches were built and work was done on the famous Academy of Alcañiz.

Though a town since 1652, we should not forget the countryside with its fields of olive trees. They have no reason to envy those of Jaén. This is the best olive oil in the world, or so they say… Not even the 18th-century War of Spanish Succession was able to stop the town and its population from

ALCANIZ AND ITS PARADOR 1 prospering. We see palaces, churches, sanctuaries and temples, and the birth during their leisure hours in music and theater. Here we find the origins of of traditions. We hear drums at dawn. The air resounds with them from the Sociedad Liceo de la Unión, from drama to comedy, from classics to Good Friday. The sound is steady and continuous, solemn and dense. Is it farce. In this way the 19th century came to an end, and the 20th began. one drum or a thousand? A thousand drums sound as one. Thus Holy Week We see the arrival of the railway. Newspapers are published: some as in March and April has been from then to now. There are drums and niches, short-lived as La Alianza, as outspoken as El Eco del Guadolope, or as in almost equal numbers, the established as Tierra Baja, and former hung around the political journals such as townsfolk, the latter scattered Democracia, Izquierda and throughout the town. This is one Amanecer. All made demands: way, or better said, the way, to more trains, more water, better pay tribute to the best loved and education, more culture. respected saints. Alcañiz is not content to rest Those who were not loved, and it never has been. It rebels and were certainly not respected, against injustice and takes great were the French as they plagued pride in itself and its people. the town. Alcañiz resisted These men and women have through years of pillage and always defended what was destruction. Then came the rightfully theirs. They have great Battle of Pueyos in May 1809. feeling for the arts and sciences, Jovellanos has recalled it for us. and are natural conciliators. Not in vain is Alcañiz known as the The Carlists found no support home of the Concordia. in the area. The established bourgeoisie was busy with other things. Peasants, traders, administrators, and liberal craftsmen found relaxation

In The Heights Of The Castle: The Parador De La Concordia

“M artin, King of Aragon, Catalonia, Valencia and Mallorca, died should move to rebuild Alcanit. The same family names may still be found in 1410 leaving no direct heir to the throne. The nobles of these here today: Baquero, Blasco, Castellón, Castillo, España, Ferrer, Font, regions decided to discuss the different claims in order to reach an Mañes, Monforte, Moragrega, Romero, Ram, Ripoll, Satapau, Vespines and agreement regarding the succession. The respective parliaments chose Vallés. Entire families came to repopulate the area, attracted by the representatives, who met with the ambassadors of Castile, France and privileges granted in June 1126. Sicily in this very castle. In 1412, the historic agreement (Concordia) was signed in the presence of a representative of the Pope. The matter was This is a strategic point, first governed by the brothers Fruela and thus resolved, setting an excellent example to all nations of how to solve Pelayo, with ten years of Christian rule preceding the Moorish invasion. this type of problem without resorting to arms, bloodshed, and the horrors Ramón Bereguer IV won the town for himself and then ceded it to Alfonso of war. The final choice of heir was decided by the representatives’ vote II. He, in turn, gave it to the Order of Calatravos, which established the (Villa de Caspe) and the throne was ceded to Don Fernando, Prince of headquarters for its lands in Aragon here. Castile, who had conquered Antequera, defeating the Moors. He was proclaimed Fernando, king of all the realms of the kingdom of Aragon, by Jaime I once lodged within these walls, before the campaign in Valencia, San Vicente Ferrer.” as did those called to the Cortes here in The story is 1250, 1371, 1436, recorded on one of and 1441. San walls of the castle, Vicente Ferrer today a Parador, preached here, located high on gaining several Pui-Pinos hill. This converts from among is where the the Jewish conqueror and community. The founder of the Magna Carta of 1526 town recommended freed the town and that the settlers castle from the

2 ALCAÑIZ AND ITS PARADOR powerful Order of Calatravos. Carlos V himself, on his way to Monzón, of Calatrava and the deer of the Cervellóns. Its arches and walls contain granted it privileges and tax exemptions. For some this has been a castle, frescos which are not easy to interpret. Over the entrance is a regal figure, for others a home, a palace, a prison, or ruins. a king in three different positions, each one with For eight hundred years it has watched over an inscription: Regnabo, regno, and regnavit. Pui-Pinos: eight centuries defending the town. Past, present, and future.

“The coat of arms of Alcañiz, There are people and animals: a troubadour, a that amazed the Moorish king, fox, a cock, a lawyer, a king on horseback, a boasts four bars on a golden field thresher, a dolphin… Only the authors of this late and a stone castle with two canes. 14th century work know its meaning for sure. The latter extol the fertility of its fields, and the former, its bravery; what sweet- A spiral staircase leads from the first to the throated swan second floor and an arched window framed by a shows its treasures, the golden fields, large pointed arch. Here one gets a view of Alcañiz and these glories are the glories of . and Aragon, seeking a glimpse of the sea, the Alcañiz not only prides itself Mediterranean. A sea as warm as the paintings, as on its ancient, noble, and warrior-spirited quiet as the tower. traits, but also on its justice, wisdom, and strength. The church lies below. Its Romanesque Roman in its arms, and Greek in its words, entrance resembles that of the cloister. Its stark without a doubt you merit your reputation. interior consists of a single nave and no transept. It is dedicated to Santa May your good fortune last a thousand centuries!” María Magdalena and was the original parish church. There are two tombs and a pantheon. The plateresque tomb of Don Juan de Lanuza is fine (Verses by Fray Tomás Domingo Simón) alabaster. At the time, 1537, its maker, Damián de Forment, was paid twenty thousand “sueldos jaqueses” for his work. It is an example of The castle’s façade was constructed in the 18th century by order of the Renaissance classicism in Italian alabaster. The two statuettes from its Prince, Don Felipe. An Aragonese-style palace, it is flanked by towers on sides, representing strength and temperance, are kept safe in the Town either side. The interior is smooth, but the central section has four Hall, away from thieves and pillagers. In the past, these have been balconies on each side, with one additional balcony on each tower. At the responsible for the disappearance of a rosette, moldings, and lions, among center of the façade, there is a semicircular arch set on pilasters with the others things. prince’s inscription on the archivolt. There have been many legends over the course of time: legends of The cloister is early ogival style, made up of eight pointed arches, two mysterious passages from the castle to the town’s forts, or deep mines on each side, which rise directly from the ground. For centuries it was a filled with gunpowder ready to destroy it in a moment of crisis. But what cemetery, a pleasant and quiet place where warriors and travelers could was once a military castle, a barracks, a prison, and a cemetery has now rest. become a proud, generous, friendly place for the comfort of visitors to Alcañiz, congenial travelers who engage with others. For this is the place At the far end there is the tower, the Torre de Alzañiz and Bajo Aragón, where peace was achieved, where the Concordia was signed. the keep. The first tier is Gothic and has a large window with the crosses

A Steep Trek Through History

1. La Lonja (The Exchange). A 15th and 15th-century civil building. 4 2. The Town Hall. Classical-style façade. 7 3. Collegiate Church. Baroque, comparable 9 to cathedral. 5 4. Palace of Justice. 5. Municipal Theatre. 6 11 6. Church of the Escolapios. Built in 1770 3 1 2 on the site of a former chapel. 13 12 7. Church of el Carmen. 8. Ardid House. From the late Middle Ages. 8 9. Franciscan Convent. Baroque façade. 10 10. Almudines Square. 11. Herrerías Gate. 12. Infanzonia Street. 13. Medieval passages. (Tourist office)

ALCANIZ AND ITS PARADOR 3 Generous Dishes For Grateful Stomachs

T eruel’s food is well suited to the of the region: rich Borage with Clams, Aragonese-style Broad Beans, or the typical local starters, tasty main courses, and sweet desserts. There is a strong Mixed Vegetable Dish, accompanied, of course, by the excellent ham. emphasis on meat and stews, lean pork being the most common ingredient. But the best known and most respected meat of the area is its cured ham, The Parador’s kitchens produce superb desserts of their own invention still cured in the cold winter air using traditional or discovery. There are Peaches in Wine, Pears in Cariñena Red Wine, methods. Tortas del Alma –aniseed cakes with sweet pumpkin filling–; Almendrados -biscuits made with almonds and egg whites–, –a Yet we should not forget the products of the Matachín, as the pig type of French toast with honey, particularly popular for regaining slaughter is known in these parts. Products such as pork loin, black pudding, strength during the hectic activity of Holy Week, between drum beats, that Butifarra sausage and chorizo sausage are all carefully cured with unique is; and custard-filled Buñuelo fritters. There are also more sophisticated seasonings, giving them a special aroma and fine flavor. dishes such as Orange Wafers in Cointreau, or more traditional offerings such as Tronchón Cheese with Honey or One eats well in Alcañiz, and at the Parador Samper, a cured goats-milk cheese. An ever- de la Concordia, exquisitely. The dishes on its reliable choice is Rice Pudding, slightly different menu are exquisite, as are the views from the from any you’ve ever had before… And to wash huge dining room. Below flows the Guadalope them down, wines from Cariñena and and alongside, the tapestry-covered walls show Somontano. Light with excellent color. the great figures of the town. The table is laid with an endless list of possibilities: local Teruel All those who have stayed in one of the Parador Soup al Perolico, made from such simple, yet de la Concordia’s twelve cozy rooms or eaten in its tasty, ingredients as bread, garlic, paprika, egg, grand dining room know its charms well. The and ham; Eggs al Salmorejo, a mixture of most illustrious visitor has been the world-famous Longaniza sausage, pork loin and asparagus; man of Aragon, from neighboring Calanda, the - fried breadcrumbs with ham and creator of Viridiana, Luis Buñuel. There have been longaniza sausage. people from the world of cinema, show business, music and politics: from the respected, late Mayor We must make difficult choices: meat or of , Professor Tierno Galván, to the Duke fish, Roast Lamb from or of Suarez and Pujol, incurable romantics like Hake Fillets a la Baturra. And Romina and Albano, and classic stars of the stage between these, Chicken in Chilindrón such as Piquer and Massiel. Tomato and Pepper Sauce and Lamb a la Pastora, with potatoes, asparagus, artichokes, and thyme. They have all come here, to Alcañiz on the banks of the Guadalope, in the shade of almonds and junipers, with the sanctuary of Pueyos nearby, There are dishes from the mountain areas, which are common on surrounded by caves and the remains of years gone by. And at the highest Teruel tables, when the season permits. Among these are Wild Boar, point there is the castle, our home during our stay, a refuge for well- sometimes made into a ham and sometimes salt cured to make the unique meaning travelers. This is a place to rest and talk. It is not called La dense and dark Cecina. There is also rabbit and hare, partridge and Concordia for nothing. This is why we will come again. quail, prepared in many different ways. There are river fish – and always f Alcañiz itself holds a variety of wonderful surprises in store, trout, and dried cod and conger, always welcome on any table. The vegetable garden also produces good vegetables for dishes such as

Por las Sendas del Bajo Aragón

S we can say no less of its surroundings, from the nearest to the most Also near the town we distant: distant in time and near in space. There is the Val de find La Estanca, the Charo cave in Agua Amarga. Inside is a four-meter frieze of the most image of Alcañiz reflected interesting cave paintings in all of Lower Aragón. These are examples of the in its still waters. This is so-called Levantine art showing hunters and the hunted in the battle for the ideal place to escape survival. There are archers and their prey, great wild boars being chased by the hustle and bustle of the men of the time, the former inhabitants of the Alcañiz area. Their legacy town amongst the woods is their courage. and hills. This is a place where the waters go still

4 ALCAÑIZ AND ITS PARADOR and time moves slowly. The Drum Monument on its bank brings art and nature together with the symbol of the Holy Week in Lower Aragon. The Matarraña Route, in a radius of 45 kms. First, Valderrobles, with the Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor and a 14th- The drum is an instrument with deep roots in the area. There has century castle. Then the beautiful town of , and nearby, Beceite, a always been a drum-making industry in Alcañiz and a tradition of renting nature reserve where the Iberian goat is protected. There are views over El drums with the corresponding tunic for prices that at one time ranged Parrizal and San Bartolomé. On a clear day, you can see the between five and fifteen pesetas, depending on the type of drum. There Mediterranean in the background. And finally, , with its houses were instruments to suit all tastes at an average price of twenty adorned with heraldic shields, its Porticoed Square and the Chapel of pesetas…long before devaluation. San Antonio.

The Sanctuary of the Virgin de los Pueyos, patron saint of the town The Route of the Drum, 31 kms. along the road to Saragossa is Hijar, is located to the northwest of Alcañiz, two with a porticoed square and an arched kilometers from the Guadalope. The stone colonnade. On the hill are the ruins of the building dates back to the 17th century, Castle of the Dukes of Hijar and below, the but a statue of the Virgin Mary inside has Church of Santa María la Mayor, the been revered and respected since the early Duke’s House, the House of the Arases, a 12th century, when a local shepherd chapel, several shrines and the Church of named Lucio had a vision of the Virgin San Antonio Abad. surrounded by angels while he was watching his flock. When she saw the A little further on is the Cabezo de Alcalá humble shepherd she told him, “go to the archaeological site at , with remains town and make my wishes known. I want from the Iberian, Celtic and Roman periods. you to honor my image in this place for as The Rueda Monastery is in Escatrón and long as water flows in the Guadalope and has a late-Gothic the fields bear crops…” The fields and the castle and palace. river are still active, as is the townspeople’s devotion. If you have a little more time, there is a 150 km. route (there and back) to The Molinos Route, 35 kms. Heading towards Teruel we come to heading towards Castellón via Morella, where there is a , with its porticoed square and 17th-century Gothic-baroque fortified settlement, and . parish church. There are also archaeological remains in the area. Molinos is 10 kms. further on in the Guadalopillo river basin. The cave, known as But if what you prefer is the town, the roar of engines and the smell of Glass Cave, displays to the visitor the artistic effect created by nature over petrol, then the Ciudad de Alcalñiz Grand Prix at the Guadalope the centuries: stalactites and stalagmites in perfect harmony. The beautiful Circuit is a must-see. It is held every year in the streets of the town. entrance of the 15th-century Gothic Church of Las Nieves has six archivolts.

Parador de Alcañiz La Concordia Castillo Calatravos, s/n. 44600 Alcañiz (Teruel) Tel.: 978 83 04 00 - Fax: 978 83 03 66 e-mail: [email protected] Central de Reservas Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Textos: Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar

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