Frankie Roll ( with Aloo (fried potatoes with , Sabudana Khichdi (tapioca pearls with egg, , and chutneys) tamarind, and mint ) peanuts and pomegranate seeds)

Gol Guppa/Pani (semolina puffs stuffed with potato, garbanzo beans, and spicy mint-cilantro water) SNACKSNACK

Muttar (fermented Chai (black tea cooked flatbread with spicy pea curry) with spices and milk)

Dahi Papdi Chaat (flour crisp topped with Aloo Puri (spiced potato curry yogurt, tamarind chutney, and spices) served with deep-fried bread)

Salty, sweet, crunchy, savory are chef Maneet CITYCITYChauhan’s favorite things about . Kulfi (eggless cardamom- XIAO LINDA (OPPOSITE): PHOTOGRAPHY and-pistachio ice cream with rose-soaked falooda noodles) MAY 2020 85 WHEN I GO TO A MARKET IN MUMBAI,

THE FIRST THING that hits me is the combination of smells and sounds. There’s always somebody making pav , a Mumbai specialty consisting of a soft, buttered roll served with spicy MANGO-CASHEW POPS mashed vegetables, clanking his metal spoons and calling “Come buy !” to attract customers. Other vendors might be Kulfi, a super-creamy, eggless Indian ice cream that making , sending the smell of butter sizzling on the griddle often comes in ice pop form, is perfect for eating while through the air. You can taste the entire country of in wandering around a bazaar. My kulfi recipe involves just one market—one stand might serve Mumbai-influenced soaking cashews overnight, draining them, and blend- mutton while the next one over has from . ing the nuts with condensed milk, mint, and cardamom There could be chow mein from Eastern India, seeds. The liquid that’s extracted from this cashew mix- (spiced chickpeas with puffy fried bread) from the north, and ture gets whisked together with more condensed milk, dosas from the south. And there are newer creations, too, like mango pulp, heavy cream, saffron, and salt, and then veggie burgers with fries. Everywhere, there are people selling frozen into ice pop molds. The sprinkling of pistachios bangles and local artifacts. It’s absolutely the most beautiful adds a fun crackle and extra nuttiness. Recipe p. 116. chaos on the planet. To me, the markets are about indulgence. Last spring, when I was in Mumbai, I met up with my college friends at Mohammed Ali Road, a snacker’s paradise near the Chippi Chawl area. It’s one of Mumbai’s most famous khau gallis (“eat streets”) and is lined with food stalls. My friends and I went from one to another, tasting anything that came our way: baida (an egg-fried roti with mutton filling), mutton kheema pav (minced meat served with warm buttered buns), and, of course, chaats galore. Chaat is a category of that roughly means “snacks.” The word “chaat” is Hindi for “to lick.” This is a literal

translation: The flavor combinations of chaats are so amazing SPRING PEA CHAAT WITH LEMON MASALA PANEER KATHI ROLLS that you’re licking your plate, your bowl, your hand! I love that One of my favorite chaats is muttar chaat, a savory, When you buy a kathi roll—usually a in a fresh there’s so much variety within chaats. crunchy pea salad with lots of different textures and flatbread—at a market in Mumbai, it’s wrapped in foil Chaats and the world of that you find at the mar- flavors. (“Muttar” means peas.) I put my own spin on and meant to be eaten on the go: a true street food. The kets throughout India (pictured on the previous spread) are the traditional muttar chaat with this three-pea version best part about a kathi roll is the contrast in inspiration for my newest restaurant, Chaatable, in Nashville, and for my forthcoming cookbook, Chaat: Recipes from the that includes sugar snap peas, snow peas, and shelled textures, which are highlighted in my vegetarian Kitchens, Markets, and Railways of India (Clarkson Potter, English peas, all cooked together until tender. The peas version. There’s soft, warmed cheese in a spiced yogurt October 2020). They can be sweet or savory, crunchy or creamy, are topped with a tangy lemon raita and a spicy, herba- marinade, charred bell peppers and onion, and a cool, spicy or salty ... though to tell you the truth, many of my favor- ceous mango-mint chutney. The tartness and sweetness crunchy, tangy cabbage salad. It’s all held together ites—as in the recipes that follow—are all of those things at once! of the toppings are what make this chaat really fun. by the wrap: a flaky, chewy, still-toasty-from-the-oven —AS TOLD TO NINA FRIEND Recipe p. 116. paratha flatbread. Recipe p. 116. FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: THOM DRIVER STYLING: PROP COX; TORIE STYLING: FOOD

86 MAY 2020 Food Photography by Victor Protasio MAY 2020 87 Strawberry-Rhubarb Chaat MANEET’S ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 45 MIN STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB CHAAT MUMBAI SERVES 4 You do not get strawberry-rhubarb chaat in India—this Chaat is no single dish or recipe; it encom- is completely my take on it. This sweet and spicy salad passes a range of snacks with a riot of tex- adds several other flavors into the mix, like mint leaves, FLY tures and flavors. Here, tart rhubarb plays fresh ginger, and red chile powder. The rhubarb chutney off the sweetness of strawberries; puffed TRAVEL NONSTOP gives sweetness. The masala boondi, a puffed chickpea chickpea cereal (boondi) delivers that Delta Airlines recently Ghatkopar cereal, gives crunchiness. When possible, I like to use started offering daily non- essential crunch. half red strawberries and half white strawberries to pro- stop flights between New York and Mumbai, joining Chembur 1 lb. fresh rhubarb stalks vide another layer of sweetness (and an additional pop Khau Galli United Airlines and Air India 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil of color), but the key is to use the freshest ones avail- in serving Mumbai from New 1 1/2 tsp. panch phoron (Indian whole York City. able. Recipe at right. five-spice blend) (such as Swad Panch Puran)

STAY 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar MUMBAI 2 Tbsp. grated peeled fresh ginger SOHO HOUSE Between a rooftop perfect 1 tsp. white vinegar

for watching sunsets and 1/2 tsp. Kashmiri red chile powder or a prime location overlook- Hungarian hot paprika ing Juhu Beach, all housed 1/4 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste within a stunning 11-story townhouse, Soho House is 2 cups halved fresh strawberries a fun, chic place from which 1 Tbsp. roughly torn fresh mint, plus to explore Mumbai. (Rooms small mint leaves, for garnish from $90, sohohouse 1 1/2 tsp. fresh lime juice (optional) mumbai.com) Chowpatty Beach 1/4 cup masala boondi (such as Anand) 1 Mohammed Ali Road or /4 cup crisp rice cereal (such as WHERE TO EAT Rice Krispies) Zaveri Bazaar 1/4 tsp. chaat masala (such as MDH THE BOMBAY CANTEEN SNDT to Chef Floyd Cardoz’s Bombay Cross Maidan Chunky Chat Masala) Canteen is a hybrid café and Khau Galli bar that serves local classics 1. Thinly slice about half of 1 rhubarb stalk and great cocktails. (Pro tip: MUMBAI into 1/8-inch-thick half-moons to yield 1 Check out Cardoz’s other cup. Set aside. Chop remaining rhubarb Mumbai restaurant, too, a stalks into 1/2-inch pieces. Goan and Portuguese spot called O Pedro.) 2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. (thebombaycanteen.com) Add panch phoron; cook, stirring often, until sizzling and fragrant, about 2 min- MASQUE MOHAMMED ALI ROAD utes. Stir in chopped rhubarb, brown Masque, one of Food & This bustling avenue in a sugar, ginger, vinegar, and chile pow- Wine’s and Travel + Leisure’s Muslim community is the der. Reduce heat to low; cook, stirring 2019 World’s Best place to sample India’s meat- Restaurants, offers a occasionally, until mixture is jammy and heavy . It 1 10-course chef’s tasting reduced to about 1 /3 cups, about 25 min- especially comes to life after menu. Chef Prateek Sadhu, utes. Stir in salt. Transfer chutney mixture sunset during the month of a Noma and Alinea alum, to a bowl. Let cool, then refrigerate until WHERE TO SNACK Ramadan (this year, April cooks food rooted in Indian Chef and Chopped judge Maneet Chauhan co-owns four 23–May 23). ready to use. flavors with a focus on restaurants in Nashville: Chaatable, Chauhan Ale & Masala CHEMBUR KHAU GALLI . 3. Toss together strawberries and torn House, Tànsuŏ, and The Mockingbird. Punjabi and Sindhi food are SNDT TO CROSS MAIDAN (masquerestaurant.com) mint in a medium bowl; if strawberries the draw at this khau galli KHAU GALLI are sweet, add lime juice. Season to taste (“eat street”) near Between Shreemati Nathibai SHREE with salt. Ghatkopar East. I go for Damodar Thackersey Wom- BHOJANALAY , or leavened flat- en’s University and Cross Shree Thaker Bhojanalay, 4. To serve, spread 1 tablespoon chutney breads, and pakwan, Maidan, a public park, is this PAV BHAJI another spot on our World’s in a 4-inch circle on each of 4 plates. which are chickpeas with street market with the best Best Restaurants list in Arrange strawberry mixture evenly on top Mumbai is known for its pav bhaji. “Pav” is the roll, fried bread. Bombay (an 2019, has been serving Guja- of chutney; top with rhubarb half-moons epic grilled with and “bhaji” is the mixture of vegetables. In Mumbai, rati vegetarian food since CHOWPATTY BEACH vegetables and chutney). and masala boondi. Sprinkle with chaat 1945. Go here for all sorts of pav bhaji vendors cook the bhaji on a big griddle. They I head to the city beach masala; garnish with mint leaves. chutneys, breads, and veg- toast the bread in a dollop of butter to caramelize the for the bhel puris—savory ZAVERI BAZAAR centric dishes, and come MAKE AHEAD Chutney can be refrigerated chaats usually made of This market in the old outside and garnish the platter with masala, cilantro, ready to eat. (facebook in an airtight container up to 5 days. puffed rice and vegetables. Kalbadevi neighborhood and onions. At Chaatable, we make our own pav, but .com/ShreeThaker1945) specializes in Gujarati food. I BEER Tart Belgian lambic beer: store-bought works just as well. Our bhaji is a mixture GHATKOPAR love the , which are Lindemans Framboise of seasonal vegetables, like cauliflower, cabbage, green Near Ghatkopar railway savory pastries stuffed with station, I love to order a lentils or peas. NOTE For more information on the spices peppers, peas, potatoes, and tomatoes, plus lots of jeera masala soda, which is and ingredients, see “Maneet’s Pantry” spices. And lots of butter. Recipe p. 117. infused with Indian spices. on p. 117. PORTRAIT (OPPOSITE): LINDA XIAO XIAO LINDA (OPPOSITE): PORTRAIT TAFT MAP: WINSLOW

88 MAY 2020 MAY 2020 89 SNACK CITY from p. 89

Cover each bowl; refrigerate at least 30 min- 1/4 cup sweetened condensed milk, plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 small fresh serrano chiles, seeds and high. Reduce heat to medium; simmer, stir- utes or up to 8 hours. more if needed 1 tsp. cumin seeds ribs removed, chopped ring occasionally, until vegetables are very 1/4 cup heavy cream 1 1/2 tsp. chopped peeled fresh ginger tender, about 15 minutes. Drain; set aside. 2. Preheat oven to 500°F with oven rack 6 1/2 tsp. brown mustard seeds 1 1 3 inches from heat source. Spread marinated /4 tsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. grated peeled fresh ginger /2 tsp. kosher salt 2. Melt /4 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter in vegetable mixture in an even layer on a a large, deep skillet over medium-high until 1 Tbsp. chopped raw pistachios 1 Tbsp. chaat masala (such as MDH Place cilantro, mint, mango pulp, lime juice, 2 rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum Chunky Chat Masala) butter is bubbling. Add onion, garlic, and gin- foil. Roast in preheated oven until mixture 1. Place cashews in a small bowl; add water tablespoons water, chiles, ginger, and salt in ger; cook, stirring occasionally, until onion 1 small fresh serrano chile, stemmed is just charred in spots, about 12 minutes, to cover by 1 inch. Refrigerate at least 8 a blender. Process on low speed, gradually is translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in toma- and finely chopped (unseeded) stirring once halfway through cook time. hours or up to overnight. Drain; discard increasing speed to high, until smooth, about toes, serrano chile, and remaining 1/2 cup Kosher salt, to taste Remove from oven. Increase oven tem- soaking liquid. Set cashews aside. 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a small airtight water; cook, stirring occasionally, 3 minutes. perature to broil. Stir marinated paneer into Black pepper, to taste container; press a piece of plastic wrap on Stir in tomato paste, red chile powder, and 2. Cook milk, mint, and cardamom seeds in vegetable mixture on baking sheet. Return mixture. Cover with a lid; store in refrigerator remaining 1 tablespoon pav bhaji masala; Masala Paneer Kathi Rolls a small saucepan over low, stirring occasion- ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS to oven, and broil until paneer is cooked until ready to use. cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is the PHOTO P. 87 ally, until mixture just comes to a simmer. 3 Tbsp. Spicy Mango-Mint Chutney through and vegetables are crisp-tender, 6 consistency of chunky tomato sauce, about 1 Remove from heat; let steep, uncovered, 15 (recipe follows) MAKE AHEAD Chutney can be stored in an ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN minute. Remove from heat. Add drained cau- to 8 minutes. Transfer mixture to a medium minutes. Transfer mixture to a blender; add airtight container in refrigerator up to 2 days. SERVES 6 Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish liflower mixture; mash using a potato masher bowl; toss with salt. Cover to keep warm; set drained cashews. Process until gritty but Pea shoots, for garnish until mixture resembles the consistency of aside. Reduce oven temperature to 200°F. mostly smooth, about 30 seconds. Thicker than tortillas but thinner than , Pav Bhaji chili, adding water as needed to loosen. 3. Make the cabbage salad: Rinse onion flaky are the perfect vehicles for 3. Place saffron threads in a liquid measur- 1. Make the lemon raita: Stir together PHOTO P. 88 under cold water; drain. Stir together onion, 3. Stir lemon juice, cilantro, and remaining these vegetarian wraps filled with warmed ing cup; place a fine wire-mesh strainer yogurt, lemon zest and juice, sugar, and salt cabbage, lime juice, jaggery, salt, and pepper TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN; SERVES 6 3/4 teaspoon salt into vegetable mixture in paneer, crunchy cabbage salad, roasted mari- over cup. Pour warm milk mixture through in a small bowl. Store in an airtight container in a medium bowl. Set aside. 3 skillet. Cook over medium, stirring often, nated vegetables, and sweet-spicy mango- strainer to measure /4 cup liquid, press- in refrigerator until ready to use, up to 3 days. Pav bhaji is a classic Indian street food of a until mixture is warmed through, about 4 mint chutney. Assemble them for your guests, 4. Cook parathas according to package ing on solids to extract liquid. (If mixture 2. Make the spring pea chaat: Bring a large lightly spicy mashed-vegetable-and-tomato minutes. Season to taste with salt. Divide or let them roll their own. For tips on sourcing directions. Transfer parathas to a baking yields less than 3/4 cup, add condensed milk pot of salted water to a boil over high. Fill a sauce seasoned with warming spices, ser- among 6 bowls; top each with 1 tablespoon ingredients, see “Maneet’s Pantry” at right. sheet; place in preheated oven to keep warm. as needed to total 3/4 cup.) Discard solids. large bowl with ice water. Add English peas rano chiles, and ginger and served with but- butter. Garnish with additional red onion and Whisk together mango pulp, condensed milk, 5. Assemble the rolls: Remove 1 paratha to boiling water; cook 4 minutes. Add snap tery toasted rolls. It makes a satisfying snack cilantro, and serve with dinner rolls. FILLING heavy cream, salt, and saffron-milk mixture from baking sheet. Place an 8-inch square peas; cook 2 minutes. Add snow peas; cook and is hearty enough for a vegetarian main. in a bowl until thoroughly combined. (There MAKE AHEAD Bhaji vegetable mixture can be 3/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt piece of aluminum foil on a work surface; until all peas are crisp-tender, about 30 sec- should be about 2 cups total.) 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped cauliflower covered and chilled up to 2 days. 1 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic place paratha on foil so that paratha is half onds. Using a spider, remove pea mixture florets WINE Fresh, zesty rosé: 2018 Emiliana 1 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh on foil and half on work surface. Spread 4. Divide mango mixture evenly among 6 from boiling water, and plunge into ice water; 1 1/2 cups chopped green bell pepper ginger 1 tablespoon spicy mango-mint chutney (3-ounce) ice pop molds; sprinkle with pis- let cool 3 minutes. Drain well; transfer to a Natura 1 3 tachios. Insert 1 craft stick into each pop. 1 1/2 cups chopped carrots 2 tsp. garam masala (such as MDH) evenly over paratha. Spread / cup cabbage medium bowl. salad in center of paratha; top with about 1/3 Freeze at least 8 hours or up to overnight. To 1 cup chopped green cabbage 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice serve, rinse ice pop molds under cold water 3. Heat oil in a small skillet over medium- cup filling. Sprinkle lightly with chaat masala. 1 cup fresh or thawed frozen English 1 tsp. chaat masala (such as MDH high. Add cumin seeds and mustard seeds; Roll up paratha -style, folding bot- to release pops from molds. peas Chunky Chat Masala) toast, stirring constantly, until very fragrant, MANEET’S PANTRY tom up and sides in toward center, using foil MAKE AHEAD Ice pops may be frozen in 1 cup chopped peeled russet potato 1/2 tsp. ground turmeric 40 seconds to 1 minute. Stir in ginger, chaat to secure. Repeat process using remaining molds up to 2 weeks. For making these recipes at home, masala, and chile to form a thick paste. 6 1/2 cups water, divided, plus more if 1 medium-size red onion, sliced parathas, chutney, cabbage salad, filling, and Maneet Chauhan keeps the following NOTE Canned mango pulp is available at Remove from heat; add to pea mixture in needed ingredients at hand. In Indian cuisine, 1 medium-size red bell pepper, sliced chaat masala. Indian markets or online at amazon.com. bowl, and toss to combine. Season to taste 2 Tbsp. pav bhaji masala (such as MDH), “masala” refers to a blend of spices. While 8 oz. paneer (fresh Indian cheese) or WINE Fruit-forward, juicy Pinot Noir: 2018 with salt and pepper. Refrigerate, uncovered, divided many chefs and home cooks prepare firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes J. Lohr Estates Falcon’s Perch custom masalas, MDH is a high-quality Spring Pea Chaat with until chilled, about 10 minutes. 1 Tbsp. plus 3/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided, 1 tsp. kosher salt plus more to taste brand; look for their spice blends at NOTE Look for parathas in the freezer Lemon Raita 4. Transfer spring pea chaat to a serving Indian markets or at amazon.com. CABBAGE SALAD section at your local Indian or Asian market. platter; drizzle with spicy mango-mint chut- 1 1/4 cups unsalted butter (10 oz.), divided PHOTO P. 86 PANCH PHORON: A blend of seeds, 1 1 1 cup very thinly sliced red onion ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 50 MIN ney and /4 cup lemon raita. Garnish with 1 /2 cups chopped red onion, plus more for including mustard, nigella, cumin, fennel, garnish 1 cup very thinly sliced green cabbage Mango-Cashew Kulfi Pops SERVES 4 cilantro leaves and pea shoots. and fenugreek 1 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice PHOTO P. 86 MAKE AHEAD Lemon raita may be covered CHAAT MASALA: A powdered blend of This fresh and crunchy chaat stars a trio of 1 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh 1 tsp. jaggery powder or dark brown ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN, PLUS 16 HR and chilled up to 3 days. spices often sprinkled over chaat for a fin- SOAKING AND FREEZING spring peas punched up with a tempered ginger ishing tart, sweet, and spicy punch sugar WINE Bright, herbal, Indian white: 2017 Sula SERVES 6 mixture of whole cumin seeds, mustard 2 cups chopped tomatoes KASHMIRI CHILE POWDER: A mild chile 1/2 tsp. kosher salt Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc seeds, chiles, and ginger. The tart lemon raita 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh serrano chile powder 1/4 tsp. black pepper brings a welcome cooling element; spoon the Canned mango pulp works better in these 1 Spicy Mango-Mint Chutney /2 cup tomato paste PAV BHAJI MASALA: A mixture of a ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS frozen ice pops than fresh mangoes because extra over rice, naan, or fresh fruit. multitude of spices, including coriander 2 tsp. Kashmiri red chile powder or of its concentrated flavor, which helps cut TOTAL 15 MIN; MAKES 1 CUP seeds, ground chile, and mango powder 6 (6-inch) frozen parathas, whole-wheat Hungarian hot paprika flour tortillas, or white pita rounds through the rich cashews and sweetened LEMON RAITA 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice GARAM MASALA: A popular blend of condensed milk. Use leftover pulp in the Fiery hot with a balancing sweetness from 6 Tbsp. Spicy Mango-Mint Chutney 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt warm spices that often includes cumin, Spicy Mango-Mint Chutney (recipe p. 117). the mango, this versatile condiment adds a 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro leaves (recipe p. 117) 2 tsp. grated lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. cinnamon, and cloves welcome punch to both the Masala Paneer and tender stems, plus more for Chaat masala, for serving fresh lemon juice garnish PANEER: A fresh Indian cheese with a 1/2 cup cashews Kathi Rolls (p. 116) and the Spring Pea Chaat 3 texture similar to firm tofu /4 tsp. granulated sugar 12 Soft dinner rolls (such as Martin’s 3/4 cup whole milk with Lemon Raita (p. 116). 1. Make the filling: Stir together yogurt, gar- 1/4 tsp. kosher salt Dinner Potato Rolls or King’s Hawaiian BOONDI: A crunchy cereal and snack 1 lic, ginger, garam masala, lemon juice, chaat /3 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves Original Hawaiian Sweet Rolls), split, made from puffed chickpea flour SPRING PEA CHAAT 1 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves masala, and turmeric in a medium bowl until 8 green cardamom pods, smashed, pods buttered, and toasted 1 cup packed fresh mint leaves JAGGERY: A dark, unrefined form of combined; measure 1/4 cup yogurt marinade discarded, and seeds reserved 8 oz. fresh English peas sugar made from palm or sugar cane 1/2 cup canned mango pulp (such as Deep into a separate small bowl. Add onion and 1/8 tsp. saffron threads, plus more for 4 oz. fresh sugar snap peas, trimmed 1. Place cauliflower, bell pepper, carrots, Alphonso Mango Pulp) MANGO PULP: Pureed canned mango; bell pepper to remaining marinade in garnish and halved on an angle cabbage, peas, potato, 6 cups water, 1 table- Kesar mango pulp is slightly sweeter than 1 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice medium bowl; toss to coat. Add paneer to /4 3/4 cup canned mango pulp (such as Deep 4 oz. fresh snow peas, trimmed and spoon pav bhaji masala, and 1 tablespoon Alphonso mango pulp, which has a deli- cup marinade in small bowl; toss to coat. Kesar Mango Pulp) thinly sliced lengthwise 2 Tbsp. water salt in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over cate, rich flavor.

116 MAY 2020 MAY 2020 117