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Im Wohnmobil Durch Nova Scotia Kanada Mai 2016 Im Wohnmobil durch Nova Scotia Kanada Mai 2016 Halifax II Nova Scotia • Atlantik-Kanada Halifax Reiseroute Mustertext Reiseroute Mustertext Landung britischer Truppen in Nova Scotia um 1749 – Wandbehang in den alten Hafenhallen in Halifax Wohnmobilreise 2016 III Die Reise Halifax/Nova Scotia ............................................ 1 Cape George ...................................................... 92 Prince George Hotel Halifax................................ 8 Elche ................................................................... 94 Mexikanisches Segelschulschiff ........................10 Tourkarte Nova Scotia ....................................... 12 Cape Breton Island NS ...................................... 96 Nova Scotia – Muss man da hin?..................... 14 Inverness ............................................................ 99 Chéticamp .........................................................101 Motorhome C22 ................................................. 21 Kosten Wohnmobil ............................................ 22 Lobsterfischer ziehen Kreise ...........................102 Lobster...............................................................107 Peggy‘s Cove ...................................................... 24 Lunenburg – Kanadas älteste deutsche Cabot Trail – Panoramastraße fast am Siedlung ............................................................. 26 Ende der Welt ....................................................108 Bluenose II .......................................................... 30 Cabot Trail – die Strecke ................................... 111 Kejimkujik Nationalpark ................................... 36 Cabot Trail – Ostküste.......................................116 Im Kejimkujik Nationalpark .............................. 40 Arbeiten im Park ................................................ 44 Baddeck ............................................................ 120 Alexander Graham Bell ................................... 124 Die Mi’kmaq ....................................................... 46 Sydney Nova Scotia ........................................ 132 Louisbourg – Ort und Festung ....................... 134 Parkers Cove und der blaue Lobster ................ 48 Geschichte der Festung Louisbourg .............. 140 Annapolis Royal ................................................. 50 Leuchtturm-Trail............................................... 150 Fort Anne Port Royal ......................................... 53 Sächsische Bäckerei in Annapolis Royal ......... 56 Bras d’Or Lake and St. Peter`s Bridge ............ 163 Gezeitenkraftwerk Annapolis ........................... 58 Campgrounds – Cape Breton Island .............. 167 Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens ................... 60 Antigonish .........................................................170 Fahrt nach Pictou ..............................................176 Digby und Westport – Whale watching ........... 66 Pictou .................................................................179 Wale in der Bay of Fundy .................................. 68 Evangeline Trail von Digby nach Windsor ........ 71 Noch mal in Halifax/Nova Scotia ....................184 Ein Schiff verschwindet ...................................187 Wolfville ...............................................................74 Die HMS Titanic und Halifax ............................191 Von Windsor über Truro nach New Glasgow .. 80 Anmerkungen zu Halifax ................................194 Camping in Canada ........................................... 84 Unterwegs.......................................................... 88 Anschriften und Links ..................................... 200 Arisaig und der Fischer mit seiner Tochter ...... 90 Index ................................................................. 202 Halifax IV Nova Scotia • Atlantik-Kanada Halifax/Nova Scotia Eines der Wahrzeichen von Halifax – die Town Clock von 1803 vor der Zitadelle. Sie sollte die Bürger zur Pünktlichkeit erziehen. Wohnmobilreise 2016 1 Im Herbst 2013 haben wir Nova Scotia bereits ein- Zeitung, der „Halifax Gazette“ gegründet, die eben- mal besucht. Mit dem Schiff sind wir damals von falls bis heute erscheint. Drei Jahre später, also Quebec aus über Corner Brooks (Neufundland), 1755 wurde in der aufstrebenden Stadt das erste Sydney (Nova Scotia), Halifax, St. John, Bar Harbor kanadischen Postbüro eröffnet. nach Boston gereist. Die Fahrt mit dem Schiff war 1758 fand die erste Abgeordnetenversammlung ereignisreich und beeindruckend. Vor allem die Re- statt und noch im selben Jahr begann die Geschich- gion Nova Scotia hat uns gefallen und wir wussten te von Halifax als bedeutende Hafenstadt mit dem damals, dass wir zurückkommen werden. Bau der ersten Werft. 1759 war Halifax die Basis für Besonders Halifax hat uns 2013 gut gefallen. britische Operationen gegen das französische Fort Halifax ist mit etwa 370.000 Einwohnern die größ- in Louisbourg, das wir auf unserer Reise noch be- te Stadt der kanadischen Atlantikprovinzen und suchen werden. besitzt den zweitgrößten Naturhafen der Welt. Die 1756 – 1763 dauerte der in Nordamerika als Stadt ist ein bedeutender Containerumschlagplatz Franzosen- und Indianerkrieg (french and indian und größter kanadischer Marinestützpunkt und hat war) bezeichnete Konflikt, bei dem von Halifax aus daher viele militärisch ausgerichtete Werften. Zu- die Angriffe auf das französische Fort Louisbourg gleich ist es auch das kulturelle Zentrum der Atlan- gestartet wurden. Die Auseinandersetzung ende- tikprovinzen. te letztlich mit der Zerstörung des französischen Halifax liegt an der Südostküste der Halbinsel Stützpunktes 1758 und leitete die militärische Nie- Nova Scotia am Atlantik. Obwohl die Stadt Dreh- derlage der Franzosen in Kanada ein. scheibe für Handel, Verwaltung und Kultur in den Atlantikprovinzen ist, hat sie sich eine liebenswür- Halifax Zitadelle dige und entspannte Atmosphäre bewahrt. Der Naturhafen und die Halifax Zitadelle (Befesti- gungsanlage) spielten in der Geschichte Kanadas Historische Anmerkungen immer wieder eine militärisch wichtige Rolle. So Am 9. Juli 1749 landete Captain General Edward nutzten die Briten die Zitadelle als Zeichen ihrer mi- Cornwallis mit 2500 Siedlern auf der Chebucto litärischen Stärke gegenüber den Franzosen wäh- Halbinsel, um einen befestigten Ort als Vorposten rend der Kolonialzeit. Die Zitadelle ist gewaltig und für das britische Militär zu errichten. Diese Siedlung wurde nie eingenommen. wurde nach Lord Halifax (1716–1771) benannt, dem Zu Zeiten der Auseinandersetzungen mit den Präsidenten der britischen Handelskammer. aufständischen Kolonien der heutigen Vereinig- Ein Jahr später, im Jahr 1750, wurde „Dart- ten Staaten, spielte Halifax eine wichtige Rolle als mouth“ gegründet, das nach der Stadt Dartmouth Zufluchtshafen der britischen Handelsmarine bzw. in England sowie zur Ehre von Sir William Leg- Landungshafen für die durch britische „Privateers“ ge, dem zweiten Grafen von Dartmouth, benannt erbeuteten Schiffsladungen amerikanischer, franzö- wurde. 1752 wurde eine Fährverbindung zwischen sischer, spanischer und portugiesischer Schiffe. Halifax und Dartmouth eingerichtet, die heute als Auch während des ersten und zweiten Welt- „Dartmouth Ferry“ die älteste permanent in Betrieb kriegs diente Halifax als Versorgungsbasis und befindliche Salzwasserfährverbindung in Nordame- Ausgangspunkt für Schiffskonvois aus Nordame- rika ist. Bereits 1752 wurde die erste kanadische rika nach Europa. Während des zweiten Weltkriegs Halifax/Nova Scotia Halifax/Nova 2 Nova Scotia • Atlantik-Kanada wurde auch der Flughafen Halifax gewaltig ausge- baut, da von hier aus die Strecke nach Europa für Flugzeuge am kürzesten war. Halifax Explosion Eine der größten Katastrophe in der Geschichte von Halifax war die Halifax Explosion. Am 6. De- zember 1917 kollidierte der französische Muniti- onsfrachter „Mont Blanc“ mit dem norwegischen Versorgungsschiff „Imo.“ Der daraus entstandene Brand auf der „Mont Blanc“ entzündete die hoch- explosive Ladung und führte zu einer der gewal- tigsten, nicht-nuklearen Explosionen in der Ge- schichte der Menschheit. Die traurige Bilanz der Katastrophe waren über 2.000 Tote und etwa 9.000 Verletzte. Die enorme Druckwelle entwurzelte Bäu- me, verbog Eisenbahnschienen und zerstörte die meisten Gebäude in unmittelbarer Nähe des Hafen- beckens. Heute erinnern noch einige Denkmale in der Stadt an diese Katastrophe. HMCS Sackville Die kanadische Korvette HMCS Sackville liegt als Museumsschiff der Royal Canadian Navy in Hali- fax und kann besichtigt werden. Es dokumentiert den Einsatz Kanadas im Zweiten Weltkrieg zur Si- cherung der alliierten Geleitzüge. Die kanadische Marine hatte beim Kriegseintritt 11 Kampfschiffe, 145 Offiziere und 1674 Mann, bei Kriegsende über 95.000 Angehörigen und 400 Schiffe, davon 270 solcher Geleitschiffe. Eines ist übrig geblieben. Halifax und sein Naturhafen Halifax hatte mit dem zweitgrößten Naturhafen der Welt seine größte Bedeutung eigentlich immer während militärischer Auseinandersetzungen. Sydney in Australien weist den größten Natur- hafen der Welt auf, Halifax teilt sich den Titel des Wohnmobilreise 2016 3 Halifax Hafen Halifax Museumsschiff HMCS Sackville im Hafen von Halifax. Eine Besichtigung lohnt sich. 4 Nova Scotia • Atlantik-Kanada zweitgrößten Naturhafens mit Maó, der Haupt- stadt der spanischen Baleareninsel Menorca. Wer tatsächlich den zweitgrößten Naturhafen der Welt aufweist ist wohl etwas umstritten. Trotzdem: Der Hafen von Halifax
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