Evangeline Trail

A Grand Pré Winery vineyard

Visitor Information Centres Experience the Annapolis Royal K3, 532-5454 Bear River K3, 467-3200 Belliveau Cove L1, 837-7100 Phenomenal Bay of Fundy Berwick J5, 538-9229 Bridgetown J3, 665-5150 From the seaport of Yarmouth, the tides of Fundy rise until they reach a high of Digby K2, 245-5714 ≈ Digby K2, 245-2201 up to 16.5 metres (54 feet) at the headwaters of the Bay of Fundy’s Minas Basin. Hantsport J6, 684-9302 The Evangeline Trail parallels the Fundy coast, passing through some of North Kentville J5, 678-7170 America’s earliest European history and the delightful villages and orchards of the Kingston/Greenwood J4,765-6678 Annapolis Valley. It’s a journey that spans 400 years of settlement, a journey Middleton J4, 825-4100 Tiverton L1, 839-2853 that will take you past forts, farms and fishing villages, a journey rich in culture, Weymouth L2, 837-4715 diversity, charm and natural beauty. Windsor J6, 798-2690 Phenomenal Fundy is also rich in natural history, particularly migrating shore Wolfville H5/6, 542-7000 birds, whales, shad and other marine life. In late July and early August, before Yarmouth N1, 742-6639 ≈ Yarmouth N1, 742-5033 flying non-stop to South America, over two million semipalmated sandpipers Most Visitor Information Centres refuel on the mud shrimp exposed by the receding Fundy tides. The power of are open mid-May to mid-October (subject to change). Call the above nature is evident all along the magnificent Fundy coast, with its world-famous numbers or 1-800-565-0000. tides and ever-changing landscape of rocky shores, fertile farmlands, salt marshes ≈ Provincial Visitor Information Centre and broad sandy beaches. It’s a naturalist’s dream! www.evangelinetrail.com www.aboutyarmouth.com 49 Travel through the picturesque Acadian The town’s waterfront park is a great place fishing villages that dot the coast of St. to enjoy views of the harbour. Nearby, the Mary’s Bay. Visit Digby, home port to the Killam Bros. Shipping Office Museum offers l i

a world’s largest scallop fleet. Take a side trip a look at coastal shipping businesses of the r on Digby Neck for some of Nova Scotia’s type that were prevalent along this coast in T

e best birding and whale watching. the 1800s and the Sweeney Museum gives n

i At Port Royal, explore the reconstructed visitors the feeling of a working fishing dock l

e French Habitation, site of the first perma- (see p. 99). Yarmouth is also home to the g

n nent European settlement in Canada. Be Yarmouth Arts Centre (Th’ YARC), which a

v sure to visit Fort Anne at nearby Annapolis offers a variety of entertainment in its 350-

E Royal, and walk among the heritage plant- seat theatre on Parade Street (see p. 102). y

a ings of the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens. Yarmouth has been a major point of w

l At the Tidal Power project, see the world’s arrival for visitors to Nova Scotia since its e

v highest tides harnessed for electricity. early days when the docks bustled with traf- a

r Journey on through the patchwork quilt fic from “the Boston States.” Today this tra- T

c of fields, dykes, orchards and vineyards of dition continues with two marinas and a car i

n the Annapolis Valley, Atlantic Canada’s rich- ferry: a high-speed catamaran, The Cat, to e c est agricultural region, with its magnificent and from Bar Harbor. S Victorian homes of 19th-century merchants ¥Stop at the Nova Scotia Visitor Infor- and sea captains. Visit Grand Pré National mation Centre, 228 Main Street (up the hill Historic Site of Canada, which commemo- from the ferry terminal), for information rates Acadian history and culture. And for and travel literature about Nova Scotia. An The stately Cape Forchu lighthouse stirring vistas of the Annapolis Valley, Minas excellent brochure describes a self-guided Basin and Fundy’s record tides, hike the trails walking tour of 26 historic buildings and welcomes visitors from the U.S. of Blomidon. This is the land immortalized heritage sites, including the Collins Heritage arriving by ferry. in Longfellow’s epic poem Evangeline: A Conservation District. Tale of Acadie. Follow Route 1, the Evangeline Trail, cross- 304 One of Yarmouth’s most scenic drives province through historic Hantsport and Wind- leads to the magnificent lighthouse at Cape sor, on to Mount Uniacke, site of Uniacke Forchu; turn onto Vancouver Street, Route House Museum. Discover the soothing, pas- 304, to Overton and Cape Forchu. The toral charms of this 18th-century estate while original Yarmouth Light, built in 1839, was strolling its extensive nature and hiking trails. replaced by the current towering structure in the early 1960s. The lighthouse features Yarmouth was settled in 1761, and picnic facilities, a gift shop, and an interest- 1 the town’s proximity to the ports of ing interpretive centre that highlights the New England and lucrative trade with the region’s colourful seafaring history, and the West Indies brought a prosperity that can park-like grounds offer impressive ocean still be seen in the town’s splendid architec- views in every direction (see p. 100). Walking ture. Yarmouth today has the salty romance trails around the cape provide superb photo- of a working seaport. graphic and bird-watching opportunities. Yarmouth’s great shipping heritage is A few kilometres beyond Yarmouth on reflected in the exhibits of the Evangeline Trail lies the tiny picturesque

y e ll the Yarmouth County Muse- fishing village of Sandford, whose scenic To Digby via a 1 V Clare/Acadian Shore s y li o b um, which includes one of harbour is spanned by the world’s smallest p ig H a D ibe n rni a a St. n i Canada’s largest collections wooden lift-bridge. A v V a uver o nco St. T of ship paintings, as well as d oa R e 340 203 v exhibits on the early Acadian Near Deerfield, off Route o r Yarmouth G and English settlements of the 340, Ellenwood Lake Provincial Park is an 304 101 area (see p. 99). attractive oasis of green with camping and S 103 tar Another of Yarmouth’s picnic facilities and a supervised swimming rs R oad To Cape r To u delightful surprises is the Fire- area. Route 203 traverses a wilderness t Forchu o e South Shore e b Firefighters’ r r t via a Museum S Shelburne fighters’ Museum. Dedicated region of woods, lakes and rivers, passing H

1 P Th’YARC Exhibition 3 to the history of firefighting through Kemptville, East Kemptville, Upper arade St. Park T Art Gallery of N.S. o and firefighters in the province, Ohio, Middle Ohio, and Lower Ohio, and P Western Branch Yarmouth u b County n h ic the museum’s extensive col- joins the Lighthouse Route near Shelburne. t Museum d o u a o Forest o

R lection includes several horse- m r e t

n n a i t

a a drawn pumpers, steam The Port Maitland Beach Provincial Park e Y y Park s M e e r a l 1 , t r e a o S l

b P pumpers and historic firefight- has a picnic area by a lovely beach. r H a n i Argyle S Yarmouth H a treet r a M International ing equipment from the 19th The Municipality of Clare, often referred B

o Airport t

t t d n

y e a and early 20th centuries (see to as the Acadian Shore, hugs Baie Ste- e e

r o

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F S R s i l p. 99). Marie midway between Yarmouth and Digby. l

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e n i l e g n a v E y a w The Baie en Joie Dancers Waterways of Kejimkujik National Park The beautiful Annapolis Royal l e v

performing in the region of Clare. and National Historic Site. Historic Gardens. a r T

c i n e c S

Cape Bay of Fundy Split Halls Evangeline Harbourville Harbour Blomidon Park Trail Cape Blomidon

y Minas Basin

r

r North Hills Aylesford e Kingston 101 Berwick

FFerry Museum Middleton Prescott House Museum rive Bridgetown ic D Fort Anne 1 cen Wolfville ds S Port-Royal Oaklawn Kentville Grand Pré slan & I Macdonald Greenwood Farm Zoo eck Digby Annapolis Military Acadia by N Museum Randall Dig Royal Historic Museum University ry Upper House er St. Bernard Clements Gardens Hantsport FFerry Bear River Museum Long Island Church Park Mickey Hill y Fort Edward err Windsor FFerry Church 12 Belliveau Point Cove 8 Brier Island 14 Shand 1 St. Mary’s Church 10 House St. Mary’s Bay Bangor Sawmill Museum Mount 1 New Uniacke 101 Kejimkujik Haliburton 101 Meteghan Scenic Drive Ross House Maitland Bridge Uniacke Mavillette Museum Estate Kejimkujik Museum Cape National Park and St. Mary Park National Historic Site Caledonia of Canada To Halifax

Yarmouth FerryFe Firefighters’ Museum rry Ferry Yarmouth County Museum Don’t Miss!

Approx. touring distances Port-Royal L’Acadie en Fête along scenic route: and Fort Anne Celebrate our French heritage Fall Harvest Festivals along the Acadian Shore. Yarmouth–Church Point 62 km Visit two National Historic Sites Cheer on the Pumpkin Church Point–Digby 37 km —celebrate 400 years of history. Regatta, sample a Ciderfest or Kejimkujik National Digby–Brier Island 75 km Winefest, celebrate the Bear River First Park and National bounty of the Valley. Digby–Annapolis Royal 27 km Nations Heritage Historic Site Annapolis Royal–Kentville 100 km & Cultural Centre Commune with nature North Hills Museum Kentville–Wolfville 10 km Share in Mi’kmaq traditions among pristine lakes, rivers Appreciate the fine collections Wolfville–Halifax 95 km and knowledge. and forests. of 18th century antiques.

Oaklawn Farm Zoo Whale Watching Seafest Encounter exotic animals Meet these gentle giants Taste the sea! Yarmouth and endangered species. of the sea in the waters offers great seafood off Digby Neck. & festivities in July. 51 Route 1 passes through twelve picturesque engineering marvel, St. Mary’s was con- French-speaking villages between Beaver structed between 1903 and 1905 in the River and St. Bernard. The bilingual inhabi- form of a cross 58 m (190 ft.) long and 41 l i tants along this shore are descendants of m (135 ft.) wide. The spire rises an impres- a r

T the first European settlers, who came from sive 56 m (185 ft.) above the surrounding

e France in the early 1600s. Scattered over countryside. From May to mid-October, a n

i eastern North America by the Deportation bilingual guide is available for tours of the l

e of 1755, many of Nova Scotia’s Acadians church and its small museum (see p. 100). g

n came to this area several years later to build St. Mary’s Church is located on the cam-

a new communities, turning from farming to pus of Université Sainte-Anne, a centre of v E

the sea for their livelihood. Acadian music Acadian culture and Nova Scotia’s only French-

y and culture are presented at festivals and language university. The university is also the a

w restaurants throughout the district during site of the oldest Acadian festival in the l

e the summer months. Atlantic Provinces, Festival Acadien de Clare, v a

r This is a region of handmade quilts, held here during the second week of July. T smoked fish and Stella Maris, the tri-coloured The village of Grosses Coques is named c i

n Acadian flag with a single star that proudly for the large clams found there, which are e

c flies from many homes and public buildings. said to be the largest on the eastern S The architecture of Clare’s older seaboard. Just past the Grosses homes reflects the New England Coques River Bridge, a left turn post-Deportation influence. The Aca- leads to Major Point Beach, where dians built magnificent churches and a cairn and small chapel have been every visitor should make time to erected to mark the site of the first stop in at least one of these cele- Acadian cemetery of the region. brated edifices. This is the starting point for an inter- One of the region’s most popu- pretive seaside walking trail, a 5- lar sand beaches can be found by km (3-mi.) loop trail along the rocky taking a turn off Route 1 in Mav- shore and past freshwater wetlands illette, to Mavillette Beach Provin- to the well-protected harbour at cial Park. Mavillette Beach, a lovely ¥Belliveau Cove (L’Anse-des- 2-km (1.2-mi.) expanse of sand and Belliveau).This former lumbering dunes, provides interpretive panels, and shipbuilding community fea- guided tours, and a bird-watching tures a picturesque lighthouse and platform on the marsh. wharf, a park with guided tours, In the village of St. Alphonse, and a beach that is a popular clam- l’Église St. Alphonse is one of the ming location when the tide is out. most charming of the Acadian At St. Bernard, an awe-inspiring churches along this shore. Inside the church, granite church which seats 1,000, was con- the walls are covered with extensive murals structed between 1910 and 1942 by local and, in one corner, a trickle of springwater residents. Guided tours are available, and flows across a grotto of “stones” that are classical music concerts are held here (see actually carved from wood. p. 103). Further along the Evangeline Trail, Smug- Weymouth, settled in 1783 by United glers Cove Provincial Park affords a splendid Empire Loyalists, is a quiet town on the Sis- place for a picnic lunch, with inspiring views siboo River with its roots in lumbering. The of the coastal cliffs and St. Mary’s Bay. A Weymouth Historical Society has restored small path leads down to a pebble beach St. Thomas Anglican Church for use as a and a natural cave. Interpretive panels and museum and cultural centre (see p. 100). guided tours tell about the rum-running past. An interpretive centre tells the story of New Meteghan, settled in 1785, is the Aca- France, the first community in the area to dian Shore's busiest port, home to scallop have dynamo-powered lights (see p. 103). draggers, trawlers, herring seiners, and cod Outdoor enthusiasts can explore the area by and lobster boats. Ask for directions to the canoe or kayak on a wilderness excursion. nearby Bangor Sawmill Museum, a restored water-powered sawmill (see p. 100). At Gilbert Cove, there is a restored 101 In Saulnierville, visit historic Église Sacré lighthouse which provides picnic Coeur (c. 1880), local craft studios, and the facilities and excellent views of the bay in wharf, then enjoy a challenging round of Top: St. Mary’s Church at Pointe every direction (see p. 100). Another place golf at Comeauville. de l’Église (Church Point). to enjoy the beauty of the area’s seashore One of the finest and most celebrated is Savary Park, a provincial picnic park on of the Acadian churches is St. Mary’s Church Centre: Mavillette Beach Park, the left near Plympton. This is a fine beach- at Pointe de l’Église (Church Point). An near Meteghan. combing area, and groves of white birches 52 Bottom: Balancing Rock, Tiverton. and evergreens overlooking a tidal pool The Bay of Fundy’s great tides have cre- tours. Boar’s Head lighthouse is a great place make it a pleasant setting. ated a rich ecosystem that supports an abun- to gaze out over the Bay of Fundy. The Islands dance of wildlife, including great numbers Museum and ¥visitor information centre is l 303 Digby was founded in 1783 by Loy- of whales and seabirds. The area has located in the village (see p. 100). It provides i a r

alists from the New England colonies led by become famous for its whale- and seabird- local information and displays on island life, T

Admiral Robert Digby. The town overlooks watching tours, and the land is an environ- including the voyage of Joshua Slocum, the e n the magnificent Annapolis Basin and the mental treasure that offers spectacular first person to sail around the world alone. i l

Digby Gut, which opens out into the Bay of panoramas of rocky headlands and tide- Halfway along Long Island, a well-marked e g

Fundy. Digby is home port of one of North carved coastline. The road winds through hiking trail with magnificent views along the n

America’s largest scallop fleets, harvesters of timeless small fishing villages such as Sandy spectacular rugged shoreline leads to the a v E

the world-famous Digby scallop. For a great Cove, Mink Cove and Little River. Sandy much-photographed “Balancing Rock,” a

view of the colourful scallop-draggers go to Cove is a particularly charming village with large column of basalt rock that balances y a

Digby’s floating marina, which rises and falls a boat-filled bay, several historic buildings, delicately at the edge of the shore. w l almost 9 metres (3 storeys) every few hours. and cliffs with volcanic ancestry. A right turn At the other end of the island is Freeport, e v a

The stairs are steep at low tide! This historic in Sandy Cove offers a short, scenic drive founded in 1784. Freeport is a fishing village r T waterfront is lined with shops, cafés, and across the peninsula to a bay where a fish- blessed with natural beauty. Wildflowers are c i restaurants, and in summer there is live enter- ing weir can be seen just offshore. The weir profuse, there are shorebirds in the cove, and n e tainment at the bandstand next to the mari- takes advantage of the extraordinary high there are many areas for hiking. A breath- c na. Visitors can stroll past the fishing boats tides to trap fish as the tide goes out. taking look-off over the Bay of Fundy is a S tied up to the fishermen’s wharf, take a har- Long and Brier Islands, off the end of great place to watch the whales from the bour cruise, wander through the marina, or Digby Neck, are reached by short ferry cross- shore. Dartmouth Point is a wonderful place observe an active boatyard. ings. Both ferries operate hourly, 24 hours for a hike, with its basalt columns and views At the end of the boardwalk a restored a day, year-round (car $4 round trip, pedes- of the surging tide. Whalewatching tours, 28-m (92-ft) scallop dragger, the Lady Vanes- trians free, STC). deep-sea fishing cruises, and fine seafood sa, has been made into a private museum There are numerous whale-watching dining are available in Freeport. highlighting the local fishery and scallop- cruises available on both islands from June Another ferry crosses on the hour from dragging. Along the street, one block from to September (see Tour Operators section). Freeport to Westport, on Brier Island. the municipal ¥visitor information centre, Sightings of finback, minke, and humpback Just 6.5 km (4 mi.) long and 2.5 km (1.5 visitors can enjoy a wealth of history on the whales and Atlantic white-sided dolphins mi.) wide, Brier Island is renowned as a sen- area and on the scallop industry at the Admi- are common. You may also see endangered sitive ecological treasure, with rare wild ral Digby Museum. The museum also has North Atlantic right whales. The islands are orchids among the profusion of wildflowers an extensive genealogy research facility. (See located on the Atlantic Flyway, a major on the island. Brier Island is a paradise for p. 100.) Two blocks uphill from the museum, migration route for many species of sea hikers and walkers, with easy-to-moderate the Trinity Anglican Church highlights the birds, shorebirds, and waterfowl, and in the trails that lead along the island’s shore to town’s shipbuilding heritage. Built in 1878, spring and fall birdwatchers flock from all places like Seal Cove, where you can sit and the church is thought to be the only one in over North America and Europe. Both islands watch a seal colony. Walkers can also enjoy Canada built entirely by shipwrights. Their have restaurants, accommodations, gas a visit to the island’s lighthouses: the Western unique handiwork shows in the laminated stations and convenience stores. Light and the Northern Light. Westport, the arches, braces and handwrought ironwork The first ferry leaves East Ferry on the only village on the island, is a major fishing common to sailing ships built a century ago. half-hour for Tiverton on Long Island. Tiver- port and a busy tourist centre with several On the way to enjoy a round of golf at ton, settled in 1785, is an unspoiled fishing vil- whale-watching cruises. a classic Stanley Thompson-designed golf lage that is home to several whale-watching course, turn on Lighthouse Road for a The Evangeline Trail continues to To Mount N.S.–N.B. Car Ferry 1 side trip to Point Prim Lighthouse, on Pleasant Smith’s Cove, a favourite resort the Bay of Fundy. This rocky shore is an area with excellent accommodations.

t. excellent vantage point for viewing 303 m S W The Smith’s Cove Historical Museum ia ill a t

W e splendid sunsets. r Annapolis Basin is located in the centre of the village, ce V S in i t r c r P t e North on Route 303, there is a o e in the Old Meeting House (1834) and t r i To Brier Island a S ¥visitor information centre near the 217 t Temperance Hall (see p. 100). and Digby Neck r e Admiral Digby Museum e terminal of the MV Princess of Acadia and Islands t k St. A scenic detour off the Evangeline rwic Scenic Wa ferry, which carries vehicles between Drive Trail, at Highway 101, Exit 24, leads to Digby and Saint John, New Brunswick. Bear River, “The Switzerland of Nova Scotia.” The town is best known for 217 Digby is the gateway to one of Digby its many outstanding artists and crafts- Nova Scotia’s most spectacular natu- people whose attractive shops line the ral regions. The Digby Neck and The Joggins Smiths Cove main street. The town’s unique archi- Islands Scenic Drive, Route 217, fol- tecture has a European flavour and 1 lows the narrow ribbon of land 303 Exit waterfront buildings have been built between the waters of the Bay of 25 on stilts to stay above the dramatic To Exit Annapolis Fundy and St. Mary’s Bay, along Digby 26 high tides. The ¥visitor information s Royal

n i Neck to Long Island and Brier Island. To Yarmouth g and interpretive centre is located in a 101 g and Acadian i g To B o Shore To Hillgrove J Lansdown 53 l i a r T

e n i l e g n a v E

y a w l e v a r T

c i Bear River First Nations Whale watching off Digby Neck. n e

c Heritage and Cultural Centre.

S windmill in the Waterfront Park. The Bear food outlets and other attractions (see p. River Heritage Museum offers a look at the 103). Across the highway, the Upper town’s rich history of shipbuilding and trad- Clements Wildlife Park offers forested trails ing (see p. 100). that allow visitors a closeup look at some of At the Bear River First Nation Heritage Nova Scotia’s native animals (see p. 103). and Cultural Centre, the traditions of the Mi’kmaq are shared through hands-on The 115-km (71-mi.) long Kejimku- 8 workshops (see p. 103). jik Scenic Drive crosses southwest- Bear River is also home to the award- ern Nova Scotia, following Route 8 from winning Solar Aquatics Treatment Facility, Annapolis Royal through the peaceful rural an innovative waste treatment facility in a countryside of Nova Scotia’s interior to Liv- greenhouse environment where effluent is erpool, on the other side of the province. cleaned using a biologically balanced envi- Leaving Annapolis Royal the drive climbs ronment of aquatic plants and creatures. the slope of South Mountain to the attrac- The facility has attracted international inter- tive village of Lequille. On the left between est among environmentalists. Lequille and South Milford is Mickey Hill Pocket Wilderness, a picnic park on Lamb’s Continuing on Route 1 from Smith’s Lake with a 1-km (0.5-mi) walking trail that 1 Cove, the Evangeline Trail passes follows the forested banks of Ten Mile River, through Cornwallis, where the military crossing a stream via a swinging bridge that museum is worth a visit (see p.100). Just off children will enjoy. the Evangeline Trail at Clementsport, the Maitland Bridge is at the entrance to old church of St. Edward, Kejimkujik National Park and National His- 2 To Parkers Cove 1 consecrated in 1797, is now toric Site of Canada, a renowned 381-km To Bridgetown a museum (see p. 100). Sur- (147-sq.-mi.) wilderness preserve (see Out- rounded by its historic ceme- doors section). tery, the church is situated on Granville a high hill. From the tower Annapolis Royal offers a captivat- Ferry 1 River there is a magnificent pano- ing blend of heritage and charm that

is rama of the Annapolis Basin. has made it a favourite stopping place along ol Tidal Power p Interpretive Centre North Hills a Visitors with children may the Evangeline Trail. The town contains n . Museum n t S A od want to stop and enjoy Upper over 150 heritage buildings, including the y o n o w h d n a t e Clements Park in Upper oldest wooden house in Canada, the o Annapolis e n A R r

t t G n r o Clements, where they’ll find deGannes-Cosby House, built in 1708. Two i e a b S l Royal T To Port A fun for kids of all ages. This is other houses of great historic value in the Royal Sa e int Fort Anne c Geo n rg i e S National r tr a bright, modern 10-hectare town are the Adams-Ritchie House (1712), P Historic ee Historic Site Gardens t 201 (25-acre) park, where the and the Runciman House (1817). theme is Nova Scotia’s heri- Today, Annapolis Royal is a town of gra- tage and music. In addition to cious large homes, colourful gardens and 1 Allains Creek Lequille exciting rides and activities, broad tree-lined streets. The town is also 8 there are several historic known for its unique shops, fine inns, artists’ Lequille Generating buildings that house displays, studios and galleries, and golf course. Station To Upper entertainment, handcrafts, Clements Park To Kejimkujik & Liverpool

54 At the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens Continuing on, you come to Port-Royal visitors can enjoy 4 hectares (10 acres) of National Historic Site. One of the most his- beautiful, tranquil gardens, including several torically important sites in North America, l theme gardens, collections, and displays Port Royal offers a fascinating insight into i a r

spread along more than 1.5 km (1 mi.) of early European settlement of the new world. T

winding pathways, most of which are A colony and fur-trading post built in 1605 e n wheelchair-accessible. The marshland adja- by Sieur de Monts, the Port Royal Habita- i l cent to the garden is a popular birdwatch- tion was the earliest European settlement e g

ing area that can be accessed by paths along in North America north of Florida. The pres- n the top of the dykes (see p. 103). ent Habitation is a reconstruction based on a v E

Fort Anne National Historic Site overlooks detailed drawings made by Samuel de

the mouths of the Annapolis and Allain rivers. Champlain. Inside the Habitation, costumed y a

The fort features well-preserved earthwork interpreters bring to life the hard daily exis- w l fortifications, a museum in the officers’ quar- tence of these early adventurers in the New e v a

ters and a gunpowder magazine. Built in World (see p. 101). r T 1708, the magazine is the oldest building in c i any Canadian National Historic Site (see p. A short drive from Port Royal n e

100). Vibrant colours and lively vignettes in leads to Delap’s Cove, where excellent hik- c the Fort Anne Heritage Tapestry illustrate ing trails lead along the rocky splendour of Savour S four centuries of the history of the site and the Bay of Fundy shore to a lovely 13-m (43- area. The present fort is the fifth built on this ft.) waterfall. The road then traces the location, and its park-like ambiance makes it magnificent tide-carved coastline, passing Nova Scotia a good place to stroll and contemplate what through several picturesque fishing villages wine & cuisine life was like for the young soldiers who along the way, including Parker’s Cove, defended it. In summer months, an enter- Young’s Cove, and Hampton. taining candlelight graveyard tour is offered The Evangeline Trail is often referred by the local Historical Society on Sunday, From Granville Ferry, the Evangeline to as the “bread basket” of Nova 1 Tuesday and Thursday evenings. Trail continues through the Annapo- Scotia. A strong agricultural community After visiting Fort Anne, take time for a lis Valley. Known as “Canada’s first bread- has been built upon the fertile soil walk along lower St. George Street, the old- basket,” this historic fertile valley has been est town street in Canada. Here you will farmed for over 300 years. Today, the orchards that the early Acadians reclaimed find the O’Dell Inn Museum (c. 1869), open and rolling farmlands comprise one of the from the sea using a network of daily during the summer (see p. 100), and most celebrated apple-growing regions in the dykes built along the shores of tidal ARTsPLACE, where visitors can get a taste world. Graced with attractive towns and vil- rivers. The orchards and fields offer a of the work of the area’s artists (see p. 103). lages and threaded with gently winding rivers, bounty of fresh produce—apples, the valley extends from Digby to Windsor— 201 Along this stretch of the Annapolis an area 160 km (100 mi.) long and from 8 pears, cherries, melons, strawberries, Valley, Route 1, the Evangeline Trail, follows to 24 km (5 to 15 mi.) wide. The valley is shel- corn, tomatoes, lettuces, carrots, the north side of the river while Route 201 tered on both sides from heavy winds and pumpkins, squash and potatoes. The follows the south side. Tupperville, 16 km the Bay of Fundy fog by the North and South vineyards of Blomidon Estate Winery, (10 mi.) east of Annapolis Royal on Route mountains. Sunshine and rich red soil combine 201, is the location of the Tupperville School to produce excellent fruit, and a trip through Domaine de Grand Pré, Gaspereau Museum, a country school over 100 years the country during apple blossom time (late Winery and Sainte Famille Wines yield old (see p. 101). May or early June) is memorable. their harvests to produce award- Bridgetown was once the busy head winning white, red, fruit, sparkling In Annapolis Royal on Route 1, you’ll of navigation on the Annapolis River where 1 find the Annapolis Tidal Power Project, the produce of the valley was gathered to be and ice wines. And of course, the first of its kind in North America. The facil- shipped to the rest of the world. Today, wherever you are in Nova Scotia, ity generates hydroelectric power from the Bridgetown has an abundance of small- you’re never far from great seafood. force of the Fundy tides at the Annapolis River town charm with colourful shops, accom- Digby, hailed as the scallop capital Causeway (see p. 103). A ¥visitor informa- modations and numerous services. Walking of the world, is home to the tion centre is also located at this site. tours of heritage homes and the Historic To reach Port Royal, follow the Evange- Cyprus Walk highlight Bridgetown’s rich his- world’s largest scallop fleet and is line Trail (Route 1) to Granville Ferry then tory. The James House, built in 1835 by the internationally renowned for the turn left. At Granville Ferry the North Hills merchant Richard James, is now a museum, succulent shellfish. Enjoy an authentic Museum, in a beautifully restored late 18th- tea room and local gallery (see p. 101). Nova Scotia cuisine experience. century home, houses the lifetime collection Jubilee Park on Granville Street (Route 1) of celebrated antique dealer Robert Patter- has picnic tables, a bandstand, a play area, For more great cuisine choices log on son. The collection includes an exceptional a boat ramp and wharf on the Annapolis to www.tasteofnovascotia.ns.ca array of fine Georgian furniture, ceramics, River, and a ¥ visitor information centre. or www.edining.ca. glass, silver and period paintings (see p. 101). There is a beautiful golf course nearby.

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e Water fun at Upper Clements Park, Clementsport. Some of the scallop fleet at Digby Wharf. v a r T From the centre of Bridgetown, a road to paradise, featuring a lighthouse, old fishing tended orchards and farms, where apples, c i

n the north off Route 1 leads across North shacks, a waterfall, and spectacular sunsets blueberries, strawberries, and a host of veg- e

c Mountain to the Bay of Fundy, 10 km (6 over long stretches of pebble beach. In an etable crops are grown. Numerous U-pick S mi.) away. Valleyview Provincial Park, situ- old fish shack near the village wharf, a co- farms and orchards offer a great way to ated on the brow of North Mountain, offers operative studio gallery displays the work of enjoy the outdoors and take along some of picnic and camping facilities and provides artists from the area, and visitors are able to the valley’s delicious produce. a panoramic view of the valley. watch an artist at work. Fundy Folk, in East On the second Saturday of July, Kingston Margaretsville, hosts some unique live musi- is the site of Nova Scotia’s largest steer barbe- The Evangeline Trail continues to cal and theatrical events. cue, boasting the best beef you’ll ever taste. 1 Lawrencetown, where the Annapo- North of Kingston is the coastal village of lis Valley Agricultural Exhibition is held each From Middleton, Route 10 offers a Morden, location of the French Cross hon- 10 August. The Centre of Geographic Sciences scenic cross-province tour to the ouring Acadians who perished there after has an international reputation in survey- LaHave River Valley and Bridgewater on the the Deportation of 1755. ing, mapping, and computer sciences. A lit- Lighthouse Route. In New Albany, about tle further along at Brickton, a road on the 20 minutes from Middleton, the Albany 201 Off Route 1 on Route 201, the village left climbs North Mountain to Mount Han- Community Church is an example of the of Greenwood, settled by Planters and Loy- ley, then continues to Port George on the transition between early 19th-century meet- alists, is now a bustling commercial centre Fundy shore, where Cottage Cove Provin- ing houses and late 19th-century churches. with the largest enclosed mall west of Hal- cial Park offers picnic facilities and, at low Further down the road, the Loyalist Ceme- ifax. Adjacent to the village are 14 Wing tide, tidal pools to explore. tery has tombstones dating back to 1774, Greenwood Air Base, a golf course open to and the Pine Grove Cemetery is one of the the public, and Greenwood Military Avia- ¥Middleton, known as the “Heart most picturesque in the province. tion Museum, which presents the fascinat- 1 of the Valley”, is a small town with a ing history of the base’s role in the growth big past. Historic buildings dating back to the ¥ Kingston is a quiet, friendly coun- of Canadian Aviation. (See p. 101.) 1 17th century, shops, and activity parks can all try village in one of the most fertile be found on the tree-lined streets. The old- and abundant regions of the Annapolis Val- Aylesford is the home of a golf course 1 est consolidated school in Canada and the ley. Scenic country roads wind past well- and one of Nova Scotia’s most popu- railway station are now museums that lar attractions, Oaklawn Farm Zoo. make learning fun (see p. 101). Next To Halls Harbour To Canning This modern zoological park features to Town Hall, watch the interesting 359 hundreds of exotic and domestic ani- A 341 ld workings of North America’s first water- ad e mals, including jaguars, tigers, zebras, Ro s anz rs l To L h o o h Brooklyn t c . run town clock. The newly restored Old R i e llamas, a pride of lions, and comical d N v

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i d bi r tio n k To Port a in North America, is an excellent exam- n w St. with the younger set (see p. 103).

O Williams reet a er St l l h i c s l e ple of Colonial church architecture (see S Off Route 1, ¥Berwick, known

t B To Starr’s ornw Ave . C allis R yn . Point p. 103). Riverside Park provides oppor- iv Brookl as the “Apple Capital of Nova Scotia”, er een d tunities for canoeing, kayaking, fish- ster r combines small-town friendliness with To eb e Main b W ing or just relaxing on the riverbank. Middleton A St. Old Kings Court House the bustle of a busy commercial centre. 1 Heritage Museum

At dusk throughout the summer The Apple Capital Museum displays

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months, birdwatchers can enjoy the n To the history of the apple industry. The e v a Wolfville A a r n aerial acrobatics of hundreds of chim- e town’s beautiful parks, Rainforth and st A Kentville e v Agriculture h e ney swifts flying in formation. C Canada Centennial, are great spots for fami- Research T A side trip on Route 362 leads from 12 o Station lies or sports-lovers. The town is sur-

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the seaside village of Margaretsville. w n orchards on the valley floor and on the e a N a n o Margaretsville is a photographer’s T gentle mountain slopes. 56 360 For a picturesque side trip, take Route ists who come to walk the beach, birdwatch 360 north to Harbourville and enjoy the and kayak, the harbour is also popular with delightful fishing village, with a restaurant, valley residents seeking cool breezes on hot l gift shop, cabins, and a lobster pound. summer days. The village has accommoda- i a r

tions, several artists’ studios, hiking trails, a T

Continuing on Route 1, the Evangeline walking trail and a restaurant/lobster pound. e 1 n

Trail enters Kentville. The largest com- Just beyond Hall’s Harbour, a side road i l munity in the Annapolis Valley, ¥Kentville leads to four colourful and highly unusual e g

retains lots of home-town charm, with pubs, small cottages built of concrete in the 1920s n colourful shops and galleries. The Kings by Charles Macdonald. a v E

County Museum on Cornwallis Street focuses

on the social and natural history of Kings The Evangeline Trail continues. New y 1 a

County and contains an extensive collection Minas is the major shopping area of w l of genealogical records (see p. 105). Centre- the Valley, with two malls and numerous e v a

Stage Theatre has been entertaining audi- shops, restaurants and service businesses. r T ences for over 20 years (see p. 103). The Lockhart and Ryan Memorial Commu- c i

One of the town’s most popular places nity Park, at the northeast end of town, fea- n e for enjoying the outdoors is the Kentville Trail tures ball fields, soccer fields, tennis courts, c System, which follows the Cornwallis River a picnic area and a playground. New Minas S from the bird sanctuary at the western edge is popular with golfers who enjoy the attrac- of town to the ravine on the east side. Near- tive and challenging 18-hole golf course. by is the Kentville Agricultural Research Sta- tion which includes Blair House, an on-site 358 Side trips off the Evangeline Trail lead museum devoted to the history of both the to some of the area’s most fascinating “off- agricultural centre and the Valley apple indus- the-beaten-path” attractions and scenery. try (see p. 101). In June the spectacular dis- One of the region’s outstanding scenic drives play of rhododendrons is well worth a visit. is described in the Orchards and Tides Every spring, at the end of May, Kentville brochure under the Port Williams–Blomidon– is the centre of the Apple Blossom Festival, Lookoff Loop. Tides, dykeland, farms and great which is celebrated throughout the valley. beaches abound on this route. At Greenwich The Festival marks the appearance of the turn left on Route 358 to Port Williams, Valley’s famous apple blossoms, which her- where a sixth-generation family farm produces ald the start of another growing season. a variety of artisan cheeses (see p. 104). Another popular Kentville celebration takes Acadian Dyke Drive winds along the coast via place in October, when the often-humorous Starr’s Point, Kingsport and Pereau to Blomi- lawn displays known as “Pumpkin People” don and The Look-off. This verdant farmland appear in profusion, adding a bright note to was claimed from the sea by means of dykes, an already colourful fall tour of the area. which were built by the Acadians and later extended by the New England Planters. From the centre of Kentville, Route 12 12 travels across the province to Chester Take time at Starr’s Point to visit the impres- Basin on the Lighthouse Route. The Ross Farm sive Prescott House Museum, an elegant Living Museum of Agriculture is located at Georgian-style house built in 1814 by New Ross on Route 12 (see p. 372). Charles Ramage Prescott and now superbly furnished with period antiques (see p. 101). 359 North of Kentville, Route 359 leads Prescott was a businessman and horticul- through Centreville over North Mountain to turist who introduced many new varieties Hall’s Harbour. Over 400 Bald Eagles spend of apples into Nova Scotia, and the lovely winters in Kings County, and can be viewed grounds and gardens around the house daily in communities such as Sheffield reflect his love of nature and gardening. Mills, just east of Centreville. In Centre- This road continues, offering tantalizing ville, visit the golf course and the Charles views of the Minas Basin and the dramatic Macdonald House, a museum dedicated to headland of Cape Blomidon, until it the achievements of one of the region’s most reaches Blomidon Provincial Park. The park is colourful residents. Charles Macdonald was renowned for its spectacular scenery and for an artist, ship’s carpenter, avid socialist and Top: Deep Roots Music Festival, the hiking trails that lead along the towering businessman. The house and the sculptures Wolfville. seacliffs of Blomidon, offering unforgettable on the grounds are unique in that they are Centre: Farmers’ markets are a views of the Minas Basin. The ebb and flow all made of concrete (see p. 101). of the world-famous 15-m (50-ft.) tides move Saturday morning ritual in many Hall’s Harbour is a lovely natural har- over fourteen billion tons of seawater twice bour and picturesque fishing village on the communities from spring to late fall. daily. The trails also lead to beaches where upper Bay of Fundy. A favourite with natural- Bottom: Hall’s Harbour at low tide. rockhounds hunt for agates and amethysts. 57 58 Scenic Travelway Evangeline Trail Grand PréNationalHistoricSite. T o T K o e n K tv e il n le t v

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p from view oftheAnnapolisValley andMinasBasin spend sometimeenjoyingthebreathtaking

l ofthecentury.large citiesattheturn river ing ships,builtalongthebanksofthisnow-lazy major portfortheregion. Large woodensail-

e to themajesticshore ofthe Minas Basin. valley’s rolling farmlands,orchards andwoods Lookoff provides apanoramicviewofthe m (600ft.)abovethefloorofvalley Trail’s mostpopularattractions.Situated200

A and atidalgauge. Park featur Scotia’ array ofcolourfulshops,andsomeNova tecture. DowntownWolfville ishometoan that isevidencedbythetown’ Wolfville hasaflavourofhistoric elegance stately trees andbeautifulheritage homes.

Resear arts andsciences.TheEnvironmental Sciences and otherdisciplinesaswellfacultiesin ate schools,withschoolsofmusic,divinity University ical garden, greenhouses, andagenebankof

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n é r es interpr on MainStr mation centr Minas Basin. f which causetheworld- is partofthephenomena swimming. Thispromontory i adise, andwhere thewater rockhound’spar- is another whose longcrescentbeach an attractiveseasidevillage W ated asamuseumbythe Street, builtin1815,isoper- Atlantic Regionflora. available atthe Wolfville’s heritagehomesis guided walkingtourof the ar and theLoyalistswhosettled of theNewEnglandPlanters tions thatreflect thehistory features displaysandcollec- s oftenwarmenoughfor e hasasix-acre nativebotan- amous hightidesinthe T leads across toRoute358. Stewart MountainRoad o therightlies olfville HistoricalSociety Randall HouseonMain A shortdistanceback, , oneoftheEvangeline etive panels,agazebo, ea (seep.102).Aself- Canning e oftownisAcadia eet. e inW ¥ visitor infor- S was oncea s richar cots Bay illow Park Wolfville , The chi . It , - ated ontheA tours ar of theChurchill &SonsShipyards. Guided was builtin1860byEzraChurchill, owner Churchill House(seep.102).Churchill House the MarineMemorialRoom,locatedin of Hantsport’s seafaringpastare ondisplayin few naturaldr the mightyMinasBasintides,ithasoneof tradition ofshippingandshipbuilding.Dueto and amphibians can beseenatBlueBeach. for braveryandgallantry. the highestaward givenbytheBritishmilitary first NovaScotiantoreceive Cross, theVictoria to W grounds oftheBaptistChurch isamemorial testimony toHantspor streets, isfurther ofMainandWilliam corner “The Captain”,awoodcarvinggracingthe tive for gr indomitable spiritoftheAcadians.Thechurch the Deportationcametorepresent the whose perseveranceduringthehar ine ofLongfellow'simmortalepicpoem, tures astatueofEvangeline,the fictionalhero- Deportation (seep.102).Thesitealsofea- contains aninteresting exhibit aboutthe of onetheoriginalAcadianvillages,and 1755 to1763.Thechurch is built onthesite homes andfar Acadians whower the to ful stonechurch standsasa memorial award-winning wines(seep. 104). tia’s oldestoperatingwineryandtastetheir thr nAainwell,andablacksmith’san shop. Acadian to theriver Gaspereau Avenue 2km(1.5mi.)outoftown the Gaspereau Riverinaninnertube.Follow mer istakingacoolandrelaxing ridedown reached byawalkingtrailfrom downtown. Minas BasinandCapeBlomidon.Itcanbe t 30-acre parkwithtwoponds,aperimeter dramatic beautyofCapeBlomidon. o by theAcadians.Thisspotoffers superbviews there are dykeswhichwere builtinthe1600s to theirnestseacheveningjustbefore dark. t Wolfville’s ChimneySwifts,theaerobatic birds Street offers aninterpretive displayon hat flyinspectacularformationastheyreturn rail, apicnicarea andspectacularviewsof f thedykelands,BayofFundy, andthe ounds are peacefulandlovely, withattrac- Near Hantspor ough At Grand-PréNationalHistoricSite,agrace- Continue alongtheEvangelineT In A popularsunny-dayactivityinearlysum- Off PleasantStreet isReservoirPark,a At theendofFront Street, bytheharbour, The RobieTufts Nature Centre onFront illiam Hall,thefirstBlackmanand the Grand Pré e availablethr mal A , where localoperatorsrent tubes. vonport gardens, ancientFrench willows, von River y docksintheworld.Ar ms duringtheDepor , takeatourofNovaSco- e forcefully exiledfrom their t, fossilsofplants,fish, to oughout thesummer , Hantspor t’s heritage.Onthe ¥ Hantspor t hasarich tation from dships of t . Situ tifacts rail - . The Robert Pope Foundation Gallery North America’s oldest agricultural fair, displays a haunting series of paintings. the Hants County Exhibition, has been held At Falmouth, visitors can play a round in Windsor for more than 230 years. l of golf on a first-class 18-hole course or tour Windsor Playland Park, featuring a i a r

a vineyard located on the site of an Acadian thrilling waterslide, is located adjacent to T

village. The Sainte Famille Cemetery is a pre- the Exhibition Grounds. e n

Deportation Acadian burial site. i l

Windsor is a bustling town with a num- From Windsor, Route 14, right, leads e

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ber of interesting attractions. Lovers of Cana- cross-province to Chester on the Light- n da’s favourite sport will be delighted to find house Route, 57 km (36 mi.) away. Route a v E

that the “Little Town of Big Firsts” is the 14 follows the course of the Avon River to

birthplace of hockey. The game was first Windsor Forks, an agricultural area also y a

played around 1800 by students of Kings- known for magnificent fall foliage. Martock, w l

Edgehill School, the first independent school a popular ski area, offers rides on the ski lifts e v a

in the British Commonwealth. While Long in the fall to view the exuberant colours. At r T Pond, on the Dill property, is considered to be Vaughan, a side road leads to Ross Farm c i the actual heritage site, the Windsor Hock- Living Museum of Agriculture at New Ross n e ey Heritage Centre downtown has displays (see p. 372). c on the origins of hockey and unique articles Windsor is at the junction of the Evange- S from the game’s early years (see p. 104). line and Glooscap trails. The Glooscap Trail Next door to the hockey centre is (see pp. 105–130) follows Route 14, left, Mermaid Theatre of Nova Scotia (see p. 104). at Garlands Crossing. Tidal View Farm, at The theatre’s wide variety of stage produc- Newport, offers an excellent vantage point Finding the perfect pumpkin at the tions by and for young people have toured for watching the tidal bore. Dill farm in Windsor. around the world. The West Hants Historical Museum and Between Windsor and Mount Uniacke 1 Genealogy Centre (see p. 102) focuses on on Route 1, the gypsum underlying the cultural history of one of Nova Scotia’s much of this area can be seen as dramatic oldest communities. The Centre houses an white cliffs along the St. Croix River. extensive library and archives. Near Newport Corner on Route 215 Thomas Chandler Haliburton, the first there is a nine-hole golf course. widely-recognized writer of humour in North Mount Uniacke was named for the sum- America, was born and lived in Windsor. His mer residence of Richard John Uniacke, who fast-talking, wise-cracking creation, Sam Slick, became Attorney General of Nova Scotia in known for such sayings as “the early bird 1797. His large colonial-style country home, gets the worm” and “quick as a wink”, lends Uniacke House, built in 1813, is now a provin- his name to an annual festival. His home, cial museum (see p. 102). The museum boasts “Clifton” (see p. 102), is now a provincial an outstanding collection of original furnish- museum furnished in period antiques. ings and is considered one of Canada’s most Another favorite son, and an official interesting examples of colonial architec- Goodwill Ambassador for the province, is ture. The Church of the Holy Spirit, built in Howard Dill, who developed a world-famous 1845, is an architectural gem. Mount Uni- variety of pumpkin, the “Dill Atlantic Giant”, acke is a naturalist’s dream with many kilome- some of which have grown to over 657 kg tres of excellent walking trails (1,446 lb.). These gargantuan gourds are leading through woodlands, St. Croix River

r showcased at several autumn events. wetlands, and meadows. e v i R Exit 6

Shand House Museum is a Victorian There is an abundance of lakes

lle lfvi Wo To t. home featuring the latest innovations in that are headwaters for rivers S r n Fort Edward te o a v National Historic Site household conveniences and styles at the flowing to the ocean and to W Ki A ng To Burncoat t. S S tr Head ee turn of the century (see p. 102). The dis- Minas Basin, and opportuni- T 1 n t o o Fa v lm A entworth Exit plays and collections reflect Windsor’s history ties for fishing, canoeing, cross- ou Shand House W th Road 5A Museum . as a major shipping port. country skiing and golfing. t S

Haliburton n a i The blockhouse at Fort Edward National The Evangeline Trail con- House r B Clifton Museum O ' 101 Historic Site is the oldest such structure in tinues on Route 1 through Ave. K

i n North America. An interpretive display pro- the suburban areas of Upper, g S t Windsor r e vides details of the fort’s history (see p. 102). Middle, and Lower Sackville, e t Downtown, visitors can enjoy the water- and ends in Bedford in the ad o R T r o front, shops, services, Victoria Park and the Halifax metropolitan area. e st T e r h u C 1 r old homes that line Windsor’s tree-shaded o Curry’s Corner 14 streets, and a ¥visitor information centre. 14 Nature lovers will enjoy the three walking Exit To 5 trails and Shell Environmental Park. Martock To St. Croix To Halifax 59