article and photos by Jan Napier BLAZING THE TRAIL IN NOVA SCOTIA In Canada’s second ook up, way up, because Glooscap is a giant in Atlantic Canada’s Mi’kmaq culture. This almighty being was of such gargantuan proportions that the smallest province, a province of Nova Scotia was his bed and Prince Edward Island his pillow. larger-than-life demigod, Ancient legends of the mythical creator live on, and there’s no better place Lto explore them than the spectacular Glooscap Trail in northwestern Nova Scotia. over-the-top scenery and The trail stretches 227 miles, all told, but our itinerary focuses on a 125-mile the world’s highest tides segment between Truro and Joggins. It’s a laid-back, mostly coastal drive, beloved by those in the know. set the stage for RV The Mi’kmaq (pronounced Meeg-mah), an indigenous people native to travels on a grand scale Canada’s Maritime Provinces and the Gaspé Peninsula of Quebec, once lived freely in this region. Silas Tertius Rand, a Baptist missionary who traveled among the Mi’kmaq in the mid- to late-1800s, documented their stories featuring the heroic Glooscap. He “lived like other men ... but he never died, never was sick, never grew old,” wrote Rand. “He could do anything and everything.” Traveling RVers can learn more about Mi’kmaq myths and culture, and stand — dwarfed — beneath the demigod’s towering bronze likeness, at the Glooscap Heritage Centre, less than 5 miles from Truro in Millbrook. If you’re lucky, Climb Five Islands Lighthouse Program Director Gordon Pictou or a heritage interpreter will be on hand to for panoramic views of the Bay of Fundy, Minas Basin and the share some of the Mi’kmaq creation stories, like the one about Five Islands. quintet of islands created by The tale begins with a giant beaver building a colossal dam, which eventually the mythical Glooscap. fl ooded the region, Pictou told me. In anger, Glooscap threw handfuls of mud
April 2015 TRAILER LIFE 31 BLAZING THE TRAIL IN NOVA SCOTIA PHOTO BY WALLY HAYES/NOVA SCOTIA TOURISM
and boulders at the gushing water. Bay. They serve huge portions in a He swung his huge paddle into the fun outdoor boatlike setting. dam, causing the timber to fl y and Carrying on to the town of Bass allowing the river to fl ow once again. River, pay your respects at Veterans “On the other side of the bay,” Pictou Memorial Park and stop in at the explained, “the rocks that were thrown Dominion Chair general store. as the beaver made his getaway began Although the company no longer man- to sprout roots and grass, and they are ufactures wooden chairs, it’s worth a known as the Five Islands.” visit to all three fl oors of the unique Heading west from the Glooscap furniture and gift store. Heritage Centre, make a pit stop at At the Glooscap Country Bazaar Masstown Market. You can stock your in Economy, a local cooperative sells RV’s larder and refrigerator with fresh fresh food items, baked goods and produce, meats and baked goods at handmade jewelry, crafts and gifts. this local landmark. It’s hard to resist Time it right and you’ll meet the the fabulous fresh fi sh and take-out T-Shirt Lady wearing one of her many seafood at the market’s Catch of the witty tops with sayings like “Heaven
(Left) The world’s highest tides ebb and fl ow at Old Shipyard Beach Campground on Spencer’s Island. (Above, top to bottom) Take a breathtaking hike at Cape Chignecto Provincial Park, stand in the shadow of mighty Glooscap in Millbrook and browse the Glooscap Country Bazaar in Economy.
32 TRAILER LIFE April 2015 PHOTO BY SCOTT MUNN/NOVA SCOTIA TOURISM B RU planet happen here (not a legend, this planet happenhere(notalegend,this and Pinnacle.Thehighesttidesonthe created: Moose,Long,Diamond,Egg see allfi a pieceofparadisewhereyoucan the cheeseshop. the goudaandDragon’sBreathBluein won’t wanttoleavewithoutsampling heritage farmanimals.Ofcourse,you trails toseethedelightfulcollectionof Willem vandenHoek’smeandering Brown Roadentrance).Takeawalkon Dutchman’s Farm(bigrigscanusethe heart attacksandcaraccidents. Take Over.”She’sasurvivorofcancer, Doesn’t WantMe,andHell’sAfraidI’ll NSW 866-638-4118, www.novashores.com NovaShores Adventures Chignecto ProvincialParkandthe ThreeSisters. novices andseasonedpaddlers aliketoCape Harbour provideswatercraftand guidestotake on board,NovaShoresAdventures inAdvocate For thosewhodon’ttravelwithaseakayak towering naturalwondersisfromthewater. Sisters seastacks.Thebestwaytoseethese bothersome dogsintostone,creatingtheThree Five Islands.Hewassaidtohaveturnedatrioof The legendaryGlooscapmademorethanthe HEY, SOULSISTERS SWS Five Islands Lighthouse Park is Five IslandsLighthouseParkis A must-stopinEconomyisThat W ICK ve islands that Glooscap ve islandsthatGlooscap GLOOSCAP TRAIL • Joggins • Parrsboro NONNOV VVA • Truro S REACH 52FEETABOVE LOW TIDE BASIN, HIGH-TIDEWATERS CAN IN THEBAY OFFUNDY’S MINAS CO tale ortwo. you inonlocalfolkloreandaghost Campground. She’llbehappytofi Carson, ownerofDiamondShores visitors comeheretofi striped bass.“Mostofmyregular fi place toexplore,andyou’llwantyour reach 52feetabovelowtide. Minas Basin,high-tidewaterscan not betrue).HereintheBayofFundy’s controlled them(OK,thatpartmight part istrue),andGlooscapmagically shing rodandreeltodropalinefor The townofFiveIslandsisagreat TI A sh,” saidNita heads northeast along Chignecto Bay to Joggins. heads northeastalongChignectoBaytoJoggins. from TruroalongCobequidBayandMinasBasin,then This waterystretchoftheGlooscapTrailtravelswest FUN TIMESONTHEBAYOFFUNDY ll to do,andthere’satouristoffi theater town,Parrsborooffersplenty behind. Awhimsicallittlearts-and- their towvehicleandleavetrailer for RVerswholiketotakedaytripsin good destinationtosetupbasecamp Bait andTackleShop. check outFiveIslandsFishMarketand fi can takeupto100clamsaday.For popular, andnoncommercialdiggers mudfl shing and clamming paraphernalia, shing andclammingparaphernalia, Like Five Islands, Parrsboro is a Like FiveIslands,Parrsboroisa Clam diggingontheexpansive ats at low tide is likewise ats atlowtideislikewise April 2015
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Shubenacadie River as the tide rushes in. When you’re not busy hanging on, watch the eagles soar overhead. You’ll experience the power of Glooscap like nowhere else. q
RV CAMPING IN GLOOSCAP’S SHADOW Because of occasional sharp turns, one-lane bridges and rough patches along the Glooscap Trail, some owners of large travel trailers and fi fth-wheels prefer to unhitch at an RV park and take day trips in their tow vehicle. Others tow their RVs along the entire trail. Plenty of campgrounds for big rigs can be found on or near the stretch between Truro and Joggins, a sampling of Walk the trails, pet the sheep and sample the award-winning gouda at That Dutchman’s Farm which appears below. Most are open in Economy, all while drinking in magnifi cent views of the Bay of Fundy. from late spring through early fall. Check the websites or call directly the local Fundy Geological Museum. meal, head across town to Wild for dates and rates. Park on the beach near Harbour View Caraway Restaurant and Café where ADVOCATE HARBOUR Restaurant where you can eat in or Chef Andrew Aitken and Sarah Griebel ADDA Fundy Tides Campground take out — be sure to try the deep-fried serve a locally sourced menu “for 902-392-2816 (seasonal), 902-392- clams. Partridge Island, the fabled everyone, everyday.” 2124 (winter), www.advocate home of Glooscap’s grandmother, is a Then follow the coast up to the harbour.org/campground great spot for beachcombing or a hike. famous Joggins cliffs, a UNESCO Cape d’Or is a must-do for breath- world natural heritage site where rock FIVE ISLANDS taking views of the Bay of Fundy and and fossil fi nds are world-renowned. Diamond Shores Campground across to where Glooscap made his Here, the history of 300 million 902-254-2903 (seasonal) home at Cape Blomidon. Then visit years gone by comes to life. Visit the Five Islands Ocean Resort Driftwood Beach on Advocate Harbour, museum, watch the fi lm and make and RV Campground laden with a bizarre array of fl otsam your own geological discoveries. 877-454-2824, www.fi veislands.ca in a beautiful panoramic setting. All All along the Glooscap Trail, you’ll along the Fundy shore, each tide cycle fi nd plenty of other places worth a Five Islands Provincial Park exposes new treasures, from sea glass stop: museums, craft and antique 888-544-3434, www.parks.gov.ns and fossils to semiprecious stones like shops, galleries, the new Fundy Ocean .ca/parks/fi veislands.asp amethyst and agate. Research Centre, golf courses, res- The RiteStop in Advocate Harbour taurants, hiking and horseback trails, GLENHOLME is a friendly place to gas up and grab waterfalls and no shortage of beaches. Hidden Hilltop Family Campground 866-662-3391 a bite. Owners Mike and Sarah Berry If your travels take you to the other www.hiddenhilltopcampground.com are more than happy to answer your side of Truro, try the roller-coaster questions. If you want a really great river-raft ride on the tidal bore of the PARRSBORO Glooscap Campground and RV 902-254-2529 GETTING TO THE GLOOSCAP TRAIL SPENCER’S ISLAND For RVers visiting from south of the Old Shipyard Beach Campground Canadian border, a fi rst-class ferry, the 902-392-2487 (seasonal), www.old Nova Star, makes the 10-hour crossing shipyardbeachcampground.com from Portland, Maine, to Yarmouth, MORE CAMPGROUND INFO Nova Scotia, in style. Nova Scotia Tourism Nova Star Cruises www.novascotia.com/places- 866-864-6295, www.novastarcruises.com to-stay/campgrounds
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