Registered with the Reg. No. TN/CH(C)/374/18-20 Registrar of Newspapers Licenced to post without prepayment for India under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-506/18-20 Publication: 1st & 16th of every month Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) INSIDE G Short ‘N’ Snappy G Bookshop on the footpath G Willingdon statue G 2 pages of Madras Week G Remembering TKR

WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS CHENNAI

Vol. XXVIII No. 10 September 1-15, 2018 Looking for the Colonial in Madras Week

G by The Editor

et another edition of tels, a service apartment chain Madras Week has come and a couple of boutique restau- Y Children from Jagannath Vidyalaya, Kelambakkam, displaying their paintings at the art contest held as part of Madras and gone. We have had the rants. We had one programme Week celebrations. usual chorus of hallelujahs and on contemporary miniatures of also an equal number of heritage buildings in the city, a naysayers who have been pre- celebration of the Gaana- the talk on the bronzes and other you could include a tour of the temples of Chennai or a revival dicting for the past 14 years, music of North Chennai, a pre-British era masterpieces at Theosophical Society as a third. of games people played by tak- ever since Madras Week began, golden jubilee of a hotel that the Madras Museum, and a But let us not forget that the ing them to Metro Stations and that it is all a flash in the pan was built AFTER indepen- chronicle of how a nature- Fort is now the seat of our ad- other public areas? that will soon peter out. But the dence, a programme on Hindi loving couple bought a farm ministration, the Nawabs were The next set of whiners have strangest of the lot are the ones films made in Madras (post outside the city and converted here before the British and the problems with the date for Ma- that keep harping that the 1947), the story of a Dubash’s it into a forest. Where among Theosophists continue practis- dras Day and its nomenclature. events are all a celebration of will that funds education here these are we celebrating the co- ing their faith. How would you Madras is much older than Au- the colonial period of Madras. and now in Tamil Nadu, the lonial rulers? classify walks focusing on gust 22, 1639 they say. Nobody Let us do a quick analysis. tale of how a bunch of slum There were some heritage temples of Velachery, the has any arguments with that. Take for instance the eight children were taken by a city- walks that were admittedly heritage of our harbour, or trac- The city is made of various parts Madras Musings lecture series based NGO earlier this year to focused on relics of the colonial ing the origins of the Dravidian that go much beyond that date. that this magazine hosted in Washington DC to participate era – Fort St George was one, movement? How should we Butquality do we of ask life? for any historical collaboration with several ho- in a festival of choral music, a the Nawabi trail was another, define talks on lesser-known When(Continued the area on was page expanded 2) to 1,189 sq.km, Government rea- soned that a large area was needed to find the best possible location for employment, afford- able housing and relocation of Need to make deep sea fishing acceptableslums and developing connecti- vity. This was primarily to be t has taken over forty years to families. Even as we write this, mented jointly by the Central to the water. The project has achievedmarketing, by creatingloan servicing, satellite Itake concrete steps towards 27 fishermen have been and State governments with 60 passed from the policy phase to townsworker and supervision peripheral andring moneyroads. resolving the fishing rights dis- arrested by the Sri Lankan per cent capital subsidy (40 the stage of fine engineering of management.Of five proposed That towns, is a onlybig pute between Tamil Nadu authorities. from the former and 20 from the its features to match ground twojump. – ManaliWhile it and is gratifying Maraimalai that fisherfolk and the predomi- The deep-sea fishing project, latter) towards cost of deep-sea realities. In terms of value, Nagartechnical – were training accomplished. sessions This are nantly Tamil fisherfolk of the launched by the Central fishing vessels each priced at 80 1,200 crores may be a small hasheld not at been different adequate locations, to arrest Northern Province of Sri government in 2017 at the fraction of the state budget but thetraining rising on overcrowding business aspects in Lanka. Though through an repeated appeals of the State for removing an irritant in our Chennaiappears neglectedcity. The and object should of exchange of letters in 1976, Government, has certainly G by A Special relations with an important makingbe corrected. housing in suburbs an India and Sri Lanka agreed to offered new hope to this vexing Correspondent neighbour and securing the attractiveThe new option business has notmodel been is stop fishing in each other’s issue. It is a bold step involving livelihood and prosperity of our realised.alien to Reports the fisherfolk. from residents They waters, Tamil fishermen, know- major capital subsidy to potent- lakhs. The beneficiary is fisherfolk it is of high impor- inmust outlying not only areas get indicate to know thathow ing no international borders in ially 2,000 fishermen. It seeks to required to provide 10 percent tance. Failure cannot be localto manage roads have it but, not beforebeen put com- in eking out a living, have been convert a problem into an op- – 8 lakhs and the balance – 24 afforded. placemitting nor to it,has know the itssupply financial of transgressing international bor- portunity by persuading our lakhs – is to be loaned by banks. Fisherfolk till now used to servicedimplications. land for The middle beneficiary and is ders, exposing themselves to jail fisherfolk to take to more The value of the project is 1,600 trawling in shallower waters risking 32 lakhs – 8 lakhs as his by Sri Lankan authorities. Over sustainable deep-sea fishing. crores. should be prepared to take on equity and 24 lakhs as borrow- the years, hundreds of our fish- Monies have been released in Conceptually, monetarily what is now a business venture ing to repay which he is liable. ermen have had to undergo jail record time and much energy is and for speed of response, the – managing a 80 lakh venture, He should know what he is sentences causing loss of liveli- in evidence in implementation. scheme cannot be faulted; but managing production, pre- likely to get out of it and hood and hardship to their The project is to be imple- there is more to taking the horse processing, storage, pricing, (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2018 Looking for Colonial in Madras Week MMM gets email adras Week is over. Or is thereby indicating that a very It was in pessimistic vein (Continued from page 1) worthy features, then what else Mit? The Man from Madras diffident voice was at the other that MMM confided his would be? Musings has his doubts for end. It eventually mustered troubles to his good lady, also basis for celebrating Mother’s there is no sign of the enough courage and asked if it known as She Who Must Be Day, Father’s Day or for that Let’s face it – Madras Week programmes abating. MMM is was MMM speaking. On being Obeyed. Having mulled over matter Friendship Day? Social is a celebration of the city. still getting invites for break- replied to in the affirmative the it, she came up with what was Media is full of Days like that. Rather than finding ways and fasts, lunches and dinners voice went silent thereby indi- a winner – get the hotels to Those who question Madras means of criticising it and where he is expected to hold cating that whoever it was at hand over pre-served plates to Day do not appear to have any predicting its demise, it is high forth on Madras, Madras the other end was mulling over the attendees she said. The problem with those other Days. time people responded to it Week, Madras Month and so the matter. MMM was just idea came to her on day 5 of As for the name, it really makes positively. It is a day/week/ on. At the end of all that eat- about to hang up when the Madras Week this year. Day 4 fortnight/month when positive ing, MMM is quite certain that voice, having revived, enquired had in particular been very no difference. Let it be Chennai there will be enough of him for if this was the MMM who did bad, with Owl managing to Day. But let us celebrate the energy is spread. There is no two or three MMMs. walks. MMM said yes. There balance eight gulab jamuns, city. It has been our home. It politics in it and money/com- With that MMM draws a was a dead silence again. But seven paneer pakodas and six has ranked in the top 52 desti- merce does not play any role. In curtain over his speaking and this time MMM did not hang sandwiches on a small tiffin nations of the world to travel to. short it is a sure formula for in- eating engagements and goes up and was duly rewarded. The plate. It has a UNESCO Creative City creasing everyone’s happiness on to deal with another subject voice, said the voice, was in quotient. So let us continue cel- – a heritage walk that he con- possession of a pamphlet that The good lady’s plan was tag. It tops the tourism footfalls implemented on Day 6 and in the country and it makes ebrating our Madras, our ducted at Fort St. George. It said MMM was conducting a was a free tour, with prior reg- heritage walk between 7.00 it went like a dream. The more vehicles than Detroit. If Chennai, our city, year after foragers were baffled. They year. istration being mandatory, this and 9.00 am at Fort St George these are not celebration- to be done by email. There was on a particular day and it was withdrew into a shell and a record turnout both for reg- for free. It wanted some clarifi- remained morose throughout istration and actual participa- cations it said. MMM asked it the presentation. The next Making deep sea tion. Now why should the to proceed, wondering if it was day saw them in reduced fishing acceptable SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY (Continued from page 1) the responsibility, through its agencies or by privatising it, to registration numbers not be about toilet facilities at the numbers. But the event on whether it compensates his buy-back the boats and auction the same as those who landed Fort. But no, the voice had Day 8 was at a hotel known additional effort and risk ad- them – treating the boats taken up you may well ask. But other queries – was it true it for its cuisine. And so they equately. As fishing in deep over as payment towards the MMM’s experience has been asked that MMM was conduct- were back in full strength. waters is susceptible to mon- beneficiary’s equity. A standard that for free walks, the enthu- ing a walk at Fort St George on This time they decided that soon on the eastern coast of siasm to actually turn up for a particular date between 7.00 price per boat can be fixed for after polishing off a pre- peninsular India, productive the event, especially on a Sun- and 9.00 am? MMM said yes served plate they could stand the buy-back allowing the voyages may be limited to a few day morning, is nowhere near whereupon the voice said it in the queue once more. But fishermen the option to take months of the year. Allowing the excitement displayed at was glad for it had read as MMM was too quick for any better deal outside. This for this, the yield during the the time of registering. In much in the pamphlet but was them. Having noticed that procedure would make disposal short, the spirit is willing but remaining fishing periods must wanting to make sure. It then they had already tanked up easier and speed up enrolment. the flesh is weak. It was how- asked MMM if it was likely to he made bold to ask them not be high enough to justify the Waiting for hundreds of indi- ever gratifying that such was rain on the day of the walk. to crowd around the tea investment. This should be vidual negotiations to fructify not the case in this instance. MMM said he did not know. service and take their seats. demonstrated to the target may delay the scheme by years. MMM enjoyed taking the How hot would it be if it did This was not to the liking to audience. The suggestion here Unlike the earlier operation, people around. But what gave not rain asked the voice, at Bald-Headed Eagle, which is that the potential beneficiary him greater joy and much which point MMM hung up. vented its ire on MMM for for deep-sea fishing, running a must be given a financial “one mirth, was reading the regis- Incidentally it did drizzle just not being hospitable. If this heavy vessel with cold storage page” easy-to-understand pro- tration emails. Firstly, there before the walk and an overcast was the way MMM contin- etc. for several days on the seas, file – showing operating was the title – variously sky made for a very comfort- ued to behave said Eagle, it there are operating expenses to expenses per voyage, likely written as Fort George walk, able walking tour. had no option other than to be incurred before getting the St. George Fort walk, George boycott Madras Week catch per voyage, likely money fruits thereof. Where is this re- Town walk and in one celebrations it said. It had, it realisation for the catch, likely Mass feeding coverable money to come from? instance – just George walk. said, been a keen supporter number of voyages in a year, the Such advance outgo is required One email just said Fort St. s you are well aware, from day one, year one, but monthly EMI to be met, the Madras Musings cel- voyage after voyage. A continu- George Resignation. And then A now there was a niggardly sum he must set apart for repair the mail contents – I am a ebrates Madras Week by ous rotating capital for operat- spirit that was creeping up and replacements and the group of one ran a particular organising eight lectures, all that was completely deplor- ing expenses is as important as surplus that would be his. He email. Yet another had MMM open to the public and each able. In the midst of all this, the capital support for the should not be allowed to leap puzzling for long over it. In held at a different upmarket lo- MMM saw out of the corner vessel. Without operating sup- cale in the city. The hotels and into the unknown. fact, you will not be far wrong of his eye that Mammoth had port, the high-value asset will in assuming that the riddle is boutique restaurants give their Some fear that they cannot managed to salt away some lie idle or would be sublet to an yet to be resolved, for it went venues gratis and out of the food in a plastic bag. The last furnish collateral security to get intermediary, reducing the thus – Please refer the flooring kindness of their heart also word in the epic battle of the bank loan. If as our enqui- intended beneficiary to the sta- details as entry details for the provide refreshments for free MMM vs the foragers is yet ries show that banks will not tus of a worker in his own ves- Fort George Walk. to everyone who attends. But clearly yet to be written. seek any collateral other than this has over the years begun to sel. Working capital is best Some others decided that perhaps the vessel itself, this this was the best opportunity attract a certain variety of free- given by the same bank that Tailpiece preferential treatment should to display their writing skills. loader who thinks that he/she gives him the term loan for a be made widely known. There were whole paragraphs has to stock up during Madras he Police, so it seems, better hold on the borrower and It is too much to expect the describing all their other social Week in the manner of camels Tcelebrated Madras Day in to offer him a single window to see them through till August style. Or at least they gave us a fishermen to handle the sophis- engagements and how this facility. The working capital Fort Walk clashed with it and next year. gift for posterity that has The ticated operation of monetising must cover the waiting period so could MMM please The Man from Madras Man from Madras Musings still an existing asset, not any longer for a good price and should not consider doing it again on Musings has been at his wits chuckling. On that day they needed by him, and paying up cease immediately upon catch. some other date? Kindly advise end on how to deal with these filed an FIR against a political their share of the capital cost for pests. He is thinking in particu- leader for unruly behaviour. No separate security should be admission and registration the deep-sea deal. When procedure went yet another, lar of Vulture, Owl, Raccoon, The document stated that he demanded other than the hundreds of boatmen are in the when all of that was already Jackal and Woolly-Headed had created a ruckus under stored catch. At present, there market to sell their boats, the provided in the announce- Mammoth, all of whom go wild the statue of Marilyn Monroe, seems to be no arrangement for price offered would be forced ment itself. But what took the on seeing a buffet spread. which stood on the Island. working capital. This short- Woolly-Headed Mammoth in down by ruthless middlemen. cake was a phone call. The They meant Sir Thomas coming could become a major whole conversation lasted 15 particular has begun to pack Munro of course. Being an Simultaneously, the pressure to impediment and must be recti- minutes or so and MMM will things away in a bag to take equestrian statue, Lady conclude the new deal paying 8 fied immediately. just give you a précis. home, no doubt to see him Godiva would have perhaps lakhs would also mount. To MMM having answered the through the long Madras been more appropriate. save them from these pressures, (To be concluded call heard several false starts winters. –MMM government must undertake next fortnight) September 1-15, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

The day MGR died VINCENT’S JOTTINGS

hennai shut down quite But you must pay me Rs 100.” Saar at the temple. Then take Madras Week, then & now The first day of August. completely on August 8, Okay, I said. us where we want to go. C Ruminations. 2018, the day after former Chief The rickshaw had gone just I was dropped at the temple Many many years ago, when the ‘Madras Day’ idea came to Minister Karunanidhi died. No a few yards, when the driver let – for an unscheduled encounter shop, office, factory or school with Goddess Meenakshi. life; the idea that city historian S. Muthiah kept tossing about out a curse. A gang of loud- and friend Sasi Nair and I said, “Time to roll this Chief” was open, nothing moved on talking roughs was advancing Friends of mine later were the roads. No one had to com- unanimous that the Goddess An idea that was simple – celebrate the city – its history, its toward us, quite menacingly. people, its institutions. In simple ways. And voluntarily. pel any one to shut shop. The driver did what was most had taught me a lesson – I This reminds me of my should have planned to visit the My enthusiasm flowed from the exciting experience of having prudent. He stopped the rick- curated, by then a few editions of the annual Mylapore Festival experience when then Chief shaw, got down and fled! temple before doing anything – which began as a Margazhi season kolam contest held at the Minister MGR died on else. The gang came up, its ring- playground of Lady Sivaswamy School. December 24, 1987. The death After darshan at the temple, leader stared at me, I returned And what a significant launch that ‘Madras Day’ was. occurred early morning. I was I was reluctant to risk another the stare. A 7 a.m. Walk inside Fort St. George, followed by daylong not aware of it when I took a cycle-rickshaw experience. I “Where is the rickshaw- events at the grand Rajaji Hall, Government Estate (for many flight to Madurai. I was sched- walked back to my hotel – years in the 60s and 70s our playground in the backyard of our uled to take a taxi from there to karan?” he asked. “He ran away hungry and tired. Peanuts from neighbourhood). on seeing you,” I replied. Kanyakumari to interview the a roadside vendor, bananas Much to our surprise, people kept streaming in all through fishermen community there for “Find him, he must be from another vendor, were life- the day, and that night we had the families of the dubash who is a UN fisheries project, which I around,” the ring-leader told his savers. The vendors were said to have brokered the ‘Fort land deal’ between the English served as Information Officer. henchmen. True enough, the careful to conceal their wares and the region’s chieftain. It was when I got into the rickshaw guy was crouching in under a piece of cloth. Over these years, ‘Madras Day’ has evolved, expanded,veered plane that I learned that MGR a lane nearby. Two henchmen I was reminded of a staff dis- and blossomed. It has also been sniggered at, challenged, had died. “There’s nothing you dragged him, quaking and cussion the previous week at my debated. . . that’s the way it has to be! But it now has a life of its can do in Madurai,” fellow quivering, to the ringleader. office. A few colleagues own. passengers told me. True Ringleader: What happened to grumbled that at remote fishing I call it a work in progress. enough, Madurai airport was at you? Aren’t you ashamed of villages in Tamil Nadu and Because the way it works is fascinating for someone who is a standstill. Taxi drivers abandoning your rickshaw Andhra Pradesh, also in into it but also steps away from it. laughed when I said I needed a and running away? Did you Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, All that a bunch of us, calling ourselves catalysts do is to drive to Kanyakumari. “We think of your passenger? where our project helped fisher send out a hundred-odd e-mails to people we believe are inter- can’t operate even within communities, there was nothing ested in the city and love to do things. That sets the ball rolling. Madurai,” they said. Rickshawman: No, Ayya, I just to eat all day, and they had to Simple things happen – as they have this season. No cell phones those days. went to the lane to relieve fast. My Swedish boss The promoter of two restaurants wants to gift Madras post- Indian Airlines didn’t allow me myself. responded sweetly “Most of us cards to his diners that they can post to friends. A foodie to use their phone – but did so Ringleader: That’s all? Do you overeat most of the time. We wonders why she does not locate any Food Walks on our after some cajoling and plead- know the big news? should grab every opportunity calendar and then volunteers to curate one in her neighbourhood. ing. I called my office and was Rickshawman: Yes Sir, Puratchi to fast and get back to shape.” advised to fly back to Chennai Thalaivar is no more. And that’s what I did. For- The Madras Local History Group hosts a series of talks – cinema-politics, Kannadasan and trees are themes. And an immediately. But the first Ringleader: Then why are you tunately, a taxi was available available flight was only next next morning for the airport. It architect who takes a paper on ‘Urban Chennai’ for students at working? Do you want us to a premier architecture school is arranging a lecture and a Walk morning. beat you black and blue? was the airhostess in the for the young ones. I persuaded a cycle rickshaw Madurai-Madras flight who I am not going to list ‘achievements’. Or make claims. at the airport to take me to a The rickshaw guy turned out broke my fast by offering me a hotel nearby. It was a nonde- to be quite smart at thinking on cup of coffee. Madras Day/Chennai Dhinam is a celebration. script hotel with the most basic his feet. He came up with “Saar After the Madurai experi- And if you have to express it any which way – a city of ours facilities. The only thing I could has come all the way from Ma- ence, I decided I would make that is unique, a people so colourful – do it this month. do in my hotel room was read. dras to pray at the Meenakshi sure that before I travelled On your Tees, in your FB posts and pictures, in your conver- Around lunch time, I hailed temple. Since he mentioned anywhere, all VIPs who sation, in the way you live and work and unwind in this city. a cycle rickshaw for a trip to a God, I decided to do an act of mattered in Tamil Nadu were in Be proud. Why mumble and grumble ever too often? good restaurant for a bite. The service. In fact, you check with good health. Say it – Namma Chennai. My Madras. cycle rickshaw driver haggled. Saar, I told him I would not take More than 30 years later, And here – www.themadrasday.in – you will find all the “You know the situation. I’ll be a single pie from him.” when Karunanidhi died, I events for August. – (Courtesy: The Mylapore Times.) risking my life to take you any- Ringleader: Ok, we are get- prudently stayed home. More Madras Week information on pages 7 and 8. where. I’ll do it for your sake. ting into your rickshaw. Drop – S.R. Madhu A 150-year-old book on Madras

marking the centenary of the that the St. George’s Cathedral church now stands and says From India’s Digital Archives Vepery Mission. was constructed as a church pri- that it is the first footing of The Madrasian is divided marily for the aristocracy or the Christianity in the neighbour- – Karthik Bhatt into four parts. The first con- “big wigs of Madras” as he called hood of Madras. As regards the tains brief profiles of the them, as other churches were St. Andrews Kirk, which came The Digital Library of India (DLI) project, an initiative of the churches and chapels in the city mostly out of bounds for them, up on the site known as “Ellis’s Central Government, aims at digitising significant artistic, literary while the second deals with the though not officially. The site Cutcherry” Munro strangely and scientific works and making them available over the Internet history of public places and chosen was suitable, being “as makes no mention of the for education and research. Begun in 2000 by the Office of the Prin- monuments such as The Pan- central as possible to the resi- unique well foundation, while cipal Scientific Advisor to the Government of India and later taken theon, The Mint, Banqueting dences of those for whose use it he dwells long on acoustical over by the Ministry of Electronics and Information Technology, it Hall, Brodie’s Castle, the Ceno- was principally intended”, al- issues it was faced with thanks has to date scanned nearly 5.5 lakh books, predominantly in Indian taph, etc. Part 3 is titled luding to the owners of the to the steep dome and calls it languages. Archaeological Notes and con- grand garden houses on the the “worst in Madras as to the tains Taylor/Munro’s writings Choultry Plain. He hails its pil- essential point of hearing”! he book featured in this played an important role in the on topics of philosophy and lars and the portico, which was Amongst the many interest- T issue, The Madrasiana analysis and cataloguing of the theology while the last section then a novelty in Madras. ing descriptions of the various (W.T. Munro, 1868) turns 150 Mackenzie Manuscripts in the is a miscellaneous collection. Writing of the Luz Church, he public spaces is that of The Pan- this year. It is an interesting 1830s. Some of his other works Parts 1 and 2 contain vivid alludes to the well-known leg- theon, which has a history dat- compilation of all things signifi- include a memoir of the descriptions of the various end of a light coming to the res- ing to the 1770s, when it was cant in the Madras of its time. Amaravati sculptures titled On structures as they stood then cue of Portuguese sailors caught the residence of a civil servant. W.T. Munro was the pseud- the Elliot Marbles and A Memoir and the stories behind their ori- in the rough seas and guiding In the 1790s, it served as the onym of Rev. William Taylor, a of the First Centenary of the Ear- gins. For instance, he writes them to the spot where the missionary and orientalist who liest Protestant Mission at Madras (Continued on page 6) 4 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2018 September 1-15, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 5

whose residents all along thought dinner tonight was basically of the ‘born again’ variety. You also have to hope that LOST LANDMARKS OF CHENNAI Alexa, we need to talk… your particular ‘assistant’ isn’t the one with the glitches. ‘She’ is – SRIRAM V (Note: The Chief has ruled that she plays music for you; she’s Aunt Chalk-screeching-across- Nope ….doesn’t work. day. programmed to ‘crack jokes’ too, ‘Alexa’ needs an explanation, efficient with alerts and remind- the-blackboard, who could give Then, realisation dawns, and Listening to ‘Baa Baa Black apparently, but you’ve heard sto- especially for the rotary-dial tele- ers; she can tell you the weather a piercing train whistle a run for you pronounce: “Play Do-Re- Sheep’ fifty-seven times in a row ries of some of them eerily break- phone generation. ing into unexplained, completely According to Wikipedia, Alexa, as it is at the moment in any part its money, reducing it to tears in Mi” can be injurious to health. At the a virtual assistant developed by of the world; she can answer all a second.) And Maria dances into the least, you may be reduced to try- unprovoked, laughter – an image The Willingdon statue Amazon, is a wireless speaker and ‘G K’ questions, and she can Wait, you are told. The cre- room, while your grandchild re- ing to take a large bite out of the so blood-curdling, you quietly voice command device with work your house for you. ators have picked up on this wards you with a grin and a hug. stuffed penguin, and warning the tip-toe right past that out-of- integrated artificial intelligence, You have to admit – this tech- whiff of criticism, and a more See? You have to get the teddy bear that if he stares at you Stephen-King scene. capable of voice interaction, music nology is pretty…er… ‘Amaz- varied, keeping-up-with-these- question just right. again, he might lose an ear. Of course, such an expanse of playback, setting alarms, providing skill-based choices can bring out weather, traffic, sports, news, and ing’. (You see what I did there?) delicate-politically-correct-times It gets even more exciting and Grandparents getting used to on the Island The tech-savvies have taken list of voice options is apparently unpredictable when you com- sharing their space with an ‘as- the clown in some people. other real-time information….and to her with ease and noncha- now being offered. mand music closer home. Song sistant’ have to put in extra hours Which perhaps explains why is was an unparalleled rise became Freeman Freeman- retirement, was made a Marquis. Cooum, came to be known as much, much more.[2] Alexa can also be used as a home automa- lance. But for the rest of us, that Very wise. titles get lost in translation, with of learning to avoid inadvertent you thought it a bright idea to in the British aristocracy, Thomas by deed poll, the first He died in 1941. Some said he Willingdon Bridge. It is today H tion system. moment when you first ‘instruct’ It seems simple, doesn’t it? the ‘assistant’ politely pointing unpleasantness. ask ‘the assistant’ what wine goes equalled only by an unmatched step in upward mobility. He be- was exhausted by his wife, who named after Periyar. Still going ‘Huh?’ her can prove nerve-wracking. Ask – and ye shall receive all the out that she doesn’t ‘…know Like the time you didn’t best with thayir saadam, grinning tenure of Government Houses came ADC to his father-in-law lived well into the 1960s. Understandable.) Willingdon remained safely A bit like being at one of answers you seek. what you mean’. realise ‘she’ was ‘active’, and used Cheshirely in the process, only to all over the British Empire and its in 1897, when the latter was ap- The Willingdons were very on his perch outside the those science exhibitions your Not really. Tempers can then get a bit a sentence that included the turn around and find your son dominions. In the history of pointed Governor of Victoria, ‘Virtual Assistant’. open in showering favours on Gymkhana well after Indepen- school used to drag you to, where Don’t run away with the idea frayed, and feelings wounded, es- term ‘rain sounds’ …..resulting gazing at you in a pained, pitying colonialism, no other person had Australia. Returning in 1900 he prominent Indians who took dence. There were however That’s the buzz. That’s what’s you filed past various exhibits that it’s just about tossing ques- pecially if you are insecure in the room being immediately manner, while your daughter-in- a career akin to that of Freeman joined the Liberal Party and their fancy. Lawyers who played rumblings about a colonial a-happenin’. and prayed fervently your tions at an inert object, which enough to feel that your articu- awash with the soft sound of law, being kinder, pretended she Freeman-Thomas, 1st Marquis served as a middling MP for ten tennis with His Excellency administrator being allowed to If you felt a vague sense of teacher would not choose you to has no other duty but to obey swishing rain. Ideal for medita- hadn’t noticed your slight lapse of Willingdon. It was not as years. In 1910, he was made became Judges. His interference remain in the open. In August déjà vu with that line, then operate something, or “ask-a- tion, you have since been told, from dignity. though he was a spectacularly Baron Willingdon of Ratton and in matters concerning cricket 1957, there surfaced a plot to use clearly, you are of a vintage for question, child….yes, you, except, in this case, the sound If you are the sort who brilliant administrator. It was just the next year, appointed was well known. There were electric bombs to blast the whom the presence of a ‘virtual standing there giggling with your G by happens to be the official lullaby, hyperventilates at smart phones, that he was tenacious enough to Lord-in-Waiting to King George rumours of some financial deals Willingdon and Munro statues, assistant’ will feel like an old sci- friends….PAY ATTENTION!!” and signal, for bedtime. Only how are you supposed to deal hang on, and was aided and abet- V. The monarch it was said, Ranjitha Ashok with Indian businessmen as well. both on the Island. The Chief ence fiction short story you read This ‘virtual assistant’s’ voice problem, it was 5 pm, and you with ‘smart homes’, under the ted by a pushy spouse who knew found Willingdon to be the best The country may not have liked Minister, K. Kamaraj was decades ago has come alive. is calm, gentle - and very female. now had to deal with an irate thumb of the ‘assistant’? when and where to apply pres- tennis partner he ever had. this man but to British adminis- informed by a letter of this plan, And you are not too sure how There is a distinctly demure your command – a bit like a ge- lation is being judged. grandchild in complete melt- Imagine this. Both genera- sure to make things happen. There was no looking back trators he and his wife were all which also said that it was un- you feel about this yet-another- touch to the manner in which nie released from a magic lamp. If your grandchild asks you to down, protesting loudly at being tions of children have left for the Born in 1866 as plain Free- thereafter. In 1913, Willingdon that was ideal. India was liberally thinkable that statues of English- tech-marvel. she answers every question and There are lessons to be learnt, play a favourite nursery rhyme, bundled off to bed way ahead of day…it is peaceful, quiet….but man Thomas, he was from a rela- became Governor of Bombay dotted with several places, parks men should remain standing There you are, self- is so willing to multi-task at your as with everything else tech-re- make sure you get the first line time, declaring this betrayal at its you are scared to pull that foot- tively middle-class background. and at the end of that tenure, and institutions named after the when the centenary of the First consciously dipping a very tenta- command, so much so you begin lated these days, right. worst. rest closer to put your feet up. His mother made it possible for Governor of Madras. On return- Willingdons by the time they left. War of Independence was being tive toe into the ‘taking selfies’ to wonder if there’s something a the crucial one being: ‘How to You really don’t want to get It isn’t just grandparents. Ev- What if that noise is in itself a him to study at Eton and Cam- ing to England in 1924, he was In Madras and Delhi the adula- observed. Members of the whirlpool, (and making a touch sexist about this? phrase your question’. into a stop-start argument with eryone had better be a little care- trigger, and the next thing you bridge where his sporting talents elevated as Viscount Willing- tion took the form of a statue. Forward Bloc were arrested and complete hash of it – how come Apparently, her creators re- Especially in a three-pronged the virtual world, and you can’t ful around an activated ‘assis- know you are in the middle of an came to the fore. He then en- don. His rule in India had seen The latter, after Willingdon had sentenced to rigorous imprison- you never realised that one side searched, studied, analysed and interaction which includes you, run amok with a hard-bound tant.’ episode of Law and Order? listed in the army and was given him try and contain the freedom retired as Viceroy, was done by ment. Willingdon’s statue was of your face is higher than the concluded that most people, of the ‘assistant’, and your grand- children’s book, forgetting which You don’t want to come flail- So much to know, learn, keep the rank of Captain, later rising movement with an iron hand. Sir W. Reid Dick, while the immediately removed and sent other?!!), when along comes this all age groups, respond positively child. era you are now in. Spanking, ing out of bed like an octopus re- up with – and remember. Huge to Major. The turning point Two years after his return home, former, executed in 1930, was a for safekeeping to the Fort creature whom you can talk to a soft female voice...especially “Doe-a-deer”, the little one even what your old teacher used ceiving an unexpected prod from challenges for Vintage-ers. came when he married Marie, Willingdon was made an Earl bronze entrusted to M.S. Museum, where it still remains, to….and she talks back!!! one, you guess, that gives off demands. to call ‘non-living beings’, is no an electric eel because an alarm “I don’t know what you the daughter of Baron (later and appointed Governor Nagappa, by then fast emerging in close proximity to the giant those all-knowing vibes, promis- “Sing Doe-a-deer.” you in longer allowed. rings unexpectedly at 3am, all mean,” the ‘virtual assistant’ of- Earl) Brassey, a colonial admin- General of Canada. In 1931, he as a talented sculptor. one of Lord Cornwallis. The ped- And so politely. ing to soothe your brow and be turn command. If your grandchild sweetly because you carelessly used a ten says, somehow conveying the istrator. Freeman Thomas became Viceroy of India and on It was a remarkable likeness. estal stayed behind on the Island. She is just yea-high, as they the eternal ministering angel. ‘She’ answers sweetly that she lisps: ‘Again, pleathe…’, think combination of words that con- message that the fault lies with The statue depicted a standing Also spared was the statue of Sir say, less than 10” tall. You find yourself thinking can’t, and offers you a palliative long and hard. vinced the ‘assistant’ that’s what the questioner, not the Willingdon, one arm on his hip Thomas Munro, chiefly because Her name is Alexa, and this that’s a bit of a surprising stereo- dose of a few lines. Because if you say “Loop” you wanted. questionee. while the other carried an Earl’s he was an enlightened adminis- ‘virtual assistant” apparently type for this century. (And also, “Doe-a-deer”, you repeat, (with slightly self-conscious pride There have been reports of Well, a whole bunch of us coronet. On him were his vari- trator who sympathised with knows Everything. incidentally, that it’s a good tension rising as your grandchild at being so familiar with current un-ordered food landing up at don’t know what most things ous decorations, including the Indians. She tells you what time it is; thing they never met your Grand steadily loses faith in you. jargon), you just might rue the the doorsteps of mystified homes, mean, or how they work, any- Knight Grand Commander of In 1961, the Congress Party more. the Order of the Star of India. decided to honour K. Kamaraj, One foot was extended, almost with a bronze statue. It was un- as though he was just going to thinkable till then that a living walk off the pedestal. In terms of Indian could be so honoured. From Madras to Singapore for the INA animation, this was a far better The statue, also by Nagappa, was (Continued from and I shared a bungalow in be spared if he confessed and Stracey built a marble memorial Stracey had this to say about Stracey was, in British parlance, statue than the one that New placed on Willingdon’s erstwhile Delhi got. That was in marble last fortnight) Singapore. Stracey met Bose a few provided details of his mission. on Connaught Drive, an obelisk the Japanese and the INA. The a JIFF (Japanese Indian or Japa- pedestal. Pt Jawaharlal Nehru, times and interacted with him Durrani was arrested in 1944 and 25 feet high, honouring the INA Japanese found in the Indian nese inspired fifth column). Af- and the Viceroy appeared to Accounts of his life in the overcoming his dislike of personally. tortured. Some British investiga- personnel who died. As is quoted army POW’s a very useful ter the British had routed the have caught some of the Raj’s INA hierarchy during the Bose honouring the living with stat- Two incidents relate to tors felt that Stracey and often, Stracey, produced a num- weapon to help them achieve INA and the Japanese, their task coming gloom. It was described days are scarce (his family con- ues, came to Madras to unveil it. Stracey in the INA, one indi- Kasliwal knew about this and ber of models for the memorial. what they were setting out to do: was to round up the JIFFs and as “all right” by one critic while sidered him lost or dead!) and The ceremony took place on rectly and one directly. The first perhaps condoned it (the case at Bose approved one of the models the greater co-prosperity sphere prosecute them to the extent others felt it was “over lifelike”, Eric agrees: It was at this stage that October 9, 1961. Like is the case of M.K. Durrani, an the Red Fort involving them was and asked Stracey if he would be of Asia. They were of course very possible. “overdressed and heavily Cyril played a prominent part as its Willingdon, Kamaraj too has one Indian POW who later turned able to complete a sea-facing tactful and they always quoted Coincidentally, Cyril’s bro- betassled.” hand on his hip, but he is of Adjutant-General. We never ques- out to be a British agent. Durrani G structure before the British Mahatma Gandhi and the Indian ther Eric was at that time partly The Madras statue was placed tioned him about his motives, for as by course far simply dressed. was implicated in manipulating forces landed in Singapore. He freedom movement under the responsible for interrogation of on a baroque pedestal at the a family we respected each other’s Kamaraj lived on till 1975, bely- the newly trained spies from the Manmadhan Ullathil built it in a record three weeks, great and recognised leaders. He JIFF suspects! He explains, By a entrance to the Gymkhana Club. personal privacy, and what notes he ing the superstition that anyone Penang spy schools (they were Maddy's Ramblings racing against time to finish it implies that on the ground, twist of fate, I myself was engaged It was unveiled there by the then left behind about his INA days were who had a statue erected in his trained and inserted in India by before the Allied forces retook where it mattered, the Japanese towards the end of the war with se- Governor, Sir George Stanley in only brief and purely descriptive. honour would soon die. Not so submarines, but as it turned out, Singapore in 1945. The words never really treated the INA as curity intelligence at our Main For- 1930. The Hindu felt that He rose through the ranks to be- dropped due to political reasons) lucky was Kamaraj’s successor they gave themselves up to the inscribed were the motto of the equals and that Mohan Singh ward Interrogation Centre in East Willingdon did not deserve a come a colonel. Dr. R.M. as it was under Stracey’s watch. C.N. Annadurai who passed British, influenced by Durrani’s INA: Unity (Etihaad), Faith was perhaps right in breaking up Bengal, where there was a large statue and criticised the idea. In Kasliwal, who was Netaji’s physi- But, the Bidadari camp where away within a year of his statue covert actions) and were eventu- (Itmad) and Sacrifice (Kurbani). the first INA. camp for INA prisoners captured keeping with the Viceroy’s cian states, Stracey was a smart Durrani was intered was admin- being unveiled at the Round ally caught. Bose who was furi- The monument was built on the As Adjutant and Quarter during the fighting in Burma. fondness for perpetuating his Anglo-Indian officer, a staunch na- istered by others. Tana, Mount Road. People at- ous with this, sentenced Durrani Esplanade just before the Master General, Stracey, then Though Cyril was flown direct to memory with place names, the tionalist, who joined the INA and The second event was the tributed his death to the statue. to death. Dr. Kasliwal and a few Japanese surrender. reporting to Gen. Kiani in the Delhi from Singapore, and so did Government House Bridge, also became the Adjutant General and construction of the Shaheed Forgotten was the fact that other Indians asked Bose to show As soon as British troops INA, was also responsible for co- not pass through my hands as a pris- known as St George’s, and which Quarter Master General with a Smarak, or INA martyr’s monu- Kamaraj was alive and well, with some mercy and, finally, Bose reoccupied Singapore in early ordinating the INA surrender to oner as did some of the other INA connected his statue to the rank as Colonel. He was a great ment in Singapore, where INA a statue for him having come up agreed that Durrani’s life would September 1945, they blew it up. the British. By this time, Col. Lord Willingdon statue, now in the Fort Museum. Government Estate across the much earlier. organiser and a good friend and he officers and contractors led by (Continued on page 9) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2018 The bookshop on the footpath

or several decades Alwar Iyer and Ramnath Goenka exists in the same location FBook Shop located on the among others. Thousands of where it has been for the last 60 pavement next to Mylapore students who could not afford years, albeit smaller in size and Club on Luz Church road has to buy new text books made a better organised with books ar- been synonymous with old and beeline to Alwar’s book shop to ranged on shelves donated by a rare, and the more common buy what they wanted. I think, well-wisher. While at the peak place school and college, books. there would not be any serious of its popularity it had over a Readers from not only across reader in Chennai who has not one lakh books, today it has Chennai but also from other visited Alwar Book shop some only about 20,000. Alwar at his book shop. parts of the country came visit- time or the other in his/her life- In the last six decades the singlehandedly for several years, seriously fell ill due to an ing it. One of them was M.S. time. shop has suffered closure many until Ramanan, known to all accident at home in 2012 and Gill, the former CEC who pur- Who is this Alwar? Is he still times because of its encounter the customers as Iyer, joined after uncle Ramanan’s passing chased books worth over Rs alive? Is the shop still function- with the law-enforcing agencies him. A Tam-brahm, the latter away, my mother ran the shop 1,000 during one of his official ing? My search for the answers or nature in the form of rains used to run an old-books shop with my sister Julie and I help- visits to Chennai. Avid readers, led me to Alwar’s second and storms. Every time, Alwar in Moore Market which he lost ing out. Unfortunately my well known writers, popular daughter Ammu’s home in would be devastated but in the fire that destroyed the mother also passed away in stars of the tinsel world, politi- Nacchhiyappa Street in bounce back with steely resolve whole heritage structure. January this year (2018) Ramanan, who was paid a regu- suddenly leaving the responsi- lar salary by Alwar assisted him bility of running the shop to my in his business for over 30 years sister and I which we have to do until he passed away in 2013 in addition to looking after our due to cancer. own families.” Alwar lived on the pave- ment adjacent to the shop and G would not sleep the whole night by guarding his shop from petty R.V. Rajan thieves. Looking at his plight, [email protected] Sadagopan, a local Corporator, arranged for his marriage with Mary, a Christian. Thanks to Ammu is proud that her her association with an NGO father has got recognition from connected with the local several voluntary agencies for Church, Mary had working his service to society by way of knowledge of written and spo- providing ‘quality secondhand ken English. This helped in his books’ and being a ‘Treasure business. Alwar was in his mid house of secondhand books’. The Alwar book shop at present. forties and Mary was several Among them is the ‘Thanthai Periyar Award’ that was cians and professionals were Mylapore where I found that 94 to serve his loyal customers. years younger. In spite of the age difference conferred on Alwar a few years regular customers of Alwar year-old Alwar is still alive but This was possible with the help ago. Book shop. The famous names not kicking. Both his vision and of sympathetic Mylaporeans Mary proved to be a devout who were patrons included hearing are impaired. I could and other well-wishers. wife, not only actively helping Alwar, though incapacitated Arignar Anna, Alladi Krishna- only communicate with him Alwar’s story is one of pas- her husband in his business but insists on being taken to the swamy Iyer, C.P. Ramaswamy through Ammu. The shop still sion, perseverance and sheer also blessing him with four shop at least once a week where grit. Born in Vilupuram, he daughters, all born in the make- he spends a couple of hours came to Madras in the late shift living accommodation on sitting in his favourite chair lost 1940s as a teenager with dreams the pavement. His daughter in thoughts and oblivious to the 150-year-old book on Madras of making it big in the film recalls,“All four sisters were goings on around him. Accord- world. Unfortunately he only brought up on the pavement. ing to Ammu, thanks to avail- (Continued from page 3) of the Chenna Basaveswara got to perform as an extra. He My father was so involved with ability of books online, the Kala Gnanam by a poet named had to do odd jobs to earn a liv- running the shop, that he never market for the old textbooks, Public Assembly Rooms. It Chennappa and a few other ing. Fate had its own plans for thought of having a proper which was the most profitable served as the Land Customs works, which prophesy the his future. When his uncle with home for the family. It was only business, has shrunk drastically. house from 1830, when the coming of a messiah to restore whom he was staying passed in 1999 when we daughters had Though there is some demand Government acquired it from dharma. This legend seems to away, the responsibility of run- reached marriageable ages, that for books of fiction, it cannot the wealthy Armenian mer- have been strong enough to ning the small bookshop, fell on due to my mother’s initiative, make up for the loss of revenue chant ES Moorat, to whom they merit a separate writeup on his young Alwar’s shoulders. He we moved to a modest rental from the sale of old textbooks had sold it in 1821. When the arrival and characteristics in took to the business like the accommodation in Mylapore. Will Alwar’s book shop, Central Museum was founded the Madras Times. proverbial duck to the water. My father, however, continued made popular only by word of in 1851, it made the Pantheon Two notable articles in Part He was educated enough to to live in the shop at nights. We mouth and which has survived its home and several additions 4 are the ones dealing with an read the titles to help him group owe a lot to our mother as she so many disasters in six de- were made to it. “To come at account of three old Madras them subject wise. The first ensured all of us got basic cades, survive the latest attack the original building, you have newspapers, the Madras Cou- shop which he started in 1952 education and were married off by technology? Only time can to remove the colonade, or por- rier, the Madras Gazette and the was located outside the Suguna in due course to respectable tell! tico, the upper story, and lastly Government Gazette and one on Vilasa Sabha and he later grooms. After my father the two sides, leaving only a the Harbour project. Writing shifted opposite the old small lodge on either side; and about the last, Munro details Kamadhenu theatre. He never then the old building will re- the challenges of the Madras moved from there. main which was once called coast including the constant Alwar remembers that the MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB “The Pantheon;” a building by threats of inundation. He gives first set of books he received was no means handsome in external instances of encroachments of from the owner of Amrutanjan To reach out to as many readers as possible who share appearance, but erected more the sea (such as the drowning Pain Balm factory, located close our keen interest in Madras that is Chennai, and in for use than show”, writes of the Bulwark in 1820-22) and to his shop. This was followed response to requests from many well-wishers – Munro. Today, it is virtually hopes that the entire project by donations from other well- impossible to make out the rem- would receive careful consider- wishers. He also went around especially from outside Chennai and abroad who nants of the old Pantheon. ation. Seven years from the door to door to collect dis- receive their postal copies very late – for an online By far the most interesting publication of this book, the carded text and other books edition. Madras Musings is now on the web at article in Part 3 is the one foundation stone for the from homes across the city and www.madrasmusings.com prophesying the arrival of Veera harbour as we know of it today, from wastepaper merchants for – THE EDITOR Bhoga Vasanta Raya, said to be was laid. Thankfully, it still a price. He ran the shop the Kalki Avatar. Munro writes functions. September 1-15, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

G Two pages celebrating Madras Week

Bus ride across city The New Indian Express had arranged a ride to some landmarks of the city in a doubledecker bus starting from Vivekananda House.

Madras Week with Odyssey Odyssey celebrated Madras Week with a series of events and displays celebrating the city and its authors. The book After the Storm, written by Lakshmy Ramanathan and published by HarperCollins India was relea- sed by Indian Film Actor Siddharth.

Chennai’s Natural Heritage / Contest for schools Madras Quiz 2018 The Madras Open Quiz 2018, the biggest open School teams had to study and present their ideas on a specific quiz on Madras, was back with a bang on August 19th spot of natural heritage of this city in a contest titled Chennai’s st this year! Hosted every year by The Murugappa Natural Heritage held on August 21 at Sastri Hall, Luz. Group in association with the Quiz Foundation of The team of TI Matric, Ambattur won the first prize (it had India. The quiz was open to quizzing enthusiasts from studied the Korattur lake) and two consolation prizes went to various age groups and was conducted by Ace teams from Vidya Mandir, Mylapore and PSBB, T. Nagar. quizmaster, Dr. Sumath C. Raman. Sumanth Raman Hemchandra Rao was one of the judges and he presented the prizes this year offered soft questions mixed with real nut- to the winners. crackers and visual posters to engage the six finalists U.S. Consulate’s Madras Week as well as the audience at MMA Auditorium. events The office of the U.S. Consulate General Chennai, celebrated Madras Week by hosting two events. Event One: Screening of the documentary “An American in Madras”. The documentary traces American born film-maker Ellis R. Dungan’s years in India as a celebrated director in the Tamil film industry from 1935-50. The event was held on August 22, between 2:30 p.m. and 4.15 p.m. at the U.S. Consulate General Chennai (Auditorium). The film was introduced by Mohan Raman, actor and film historian, who was also featured in the documentary. Event Two: Panel discussion on “We the People — Madras’ Historic Ties with the United States” on August 23, between 3:30 p.m and 5:00 p.m. at Women’s Christian College Auditorium, College Road. It featured author Chitra Veeraraghavan, Sriram V, historian and R Ramkumar, Executive Director, Cognizant Tech- nology Solutions Limited, in conversation with Kathleen Hosie, Information Officer, US Consulate. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2018 Walks during Madras Week Early History of the Buckingham Canal

Researcher-historian D. Hem- chandra Rao led a group around Basin Bridge in North Chennai. The tour stopped at the Central Station zone and Madras Univer- sity, besides walking around the Basin Bridge area, to have a closer look at key functions of this Canal in years gone by. Walks Theo- sophical Society St. Thomas Church walk Campus On 25th August, INTACH, Chennai Chapter hosted the Theosophical Society Walk covering the On Aug 15 historical buildings there was a walk and trees of the at the 176 years- campus. old CSI St Thomas English Church. The tour drew 45 people to this San Thome campus. Anglo-Indian community too join in Madras Week Celebrations

The Anglo-Indian Crafts & Cuisine Fair was held at St. George’s School campus, Poonamallee to showcase the Anglo-Indian Community’s ca- pabilities. The fair offered sales of craftsworks and products of The Royal Madras Yacht Club organised a tour titled Madras current Anglo-Indian entrepre- from the sea. Over 90 participants went on the yacht Shandavina neurs, mouth-watering food as Vepery and Perambur and of course, music. The event was hosted and listened to Sriram V. pointing out the history and heritage cooked at homes in Royapuram, by the Forum of Anglo-Indian women, Chennai. that was visible from the sea. Events at Madras Literary Society

As part of Madras Week celebra- tions, Madras Literary Society held an exhibition of rare books. Also K.R.A. Narasiah spoke about Caste Conflicts in Colonial Madras at Madras Literary Society campus.

Events held at Anna Nagar

Progressive Painters’ Association organised an exhibition of paintings and sculptures titled Contemporary Art in Madras over the On Saturday, 25th August 2018, historian Sriram V led a free tour of Fort St. George between 7.00 years as a part of Madras Week celebrations at C.P. Art Centre and 9.30 am. Sriram, who penned a book on the Fort in 2016, took a 110-strong group through campus. Art critic, Ashrafi Bhagat spoke on the occasion. On familiar and unknown landmarks within the precincts, combining the tour with his racy anecdotes of display were rare art works by D.P. Roy Choudhury from the private historic happenings. collection of C.P. Ramaswami Aiyar. September 1-15, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 9

rathy Iyengar. Our HEO secre- tary passed away at Sriperum- 100+ and still budur, and I as its president sent my condolences from home, but Parthasarathy Iyengar at 102 going strong drove all the way, one-and-a- half hours each way, to convey his condolences personally and stayed until the body was taken out. go forward with this kind of provided by the Muslims of the contempt for greatness?) locality who also join in the There was a celebration of Back to Parthasarathy pulling of the chariot. Incred- the 90th birthday of Dr. M. Iyengar. He is also the chairman ible, isn’t it? Anandakrishnan at Hyatt of the trust of a Rama temple in Parthasarathy Iyengar is the Regency, which went on for Ayodhya and truly religiously first to arrive at meetings, par- three hours. Parthasarathy Iyengar came 15 minutes ahead Dr. S. Parthasarathy Iyengar. of the meeting, even before Anandakrishnan’s own sons know a person who has He is a disciple and devotee G On the occasion of Madras Day, here’s a profile of a turned up, and sat right until Idrunk life to the lees and is of S.R. Ranganathan, the father remarkable Chennai-ite, 102 years old, written by one the end, avidly listening to all still around at 102 defying of Indian library science, the who is no less remarkable – B.S. RAGHAVAN, who at the speeches. death: Dr. S. Parthasarathy enunciator of the famous five 92, is active as a writer, social activist, columnist and I asked Parthasarathy Iyengar, the father of Indian laws of library science, the public speaker. documentation. founder and first librarian of the Iyengar the other day what his He is the first director of the Madras University Library and BP and blood sugar readings newly founded Indian National prime mover behind the were. He guffawed and said he Scientific Documentation Cen- National Library. (Ranga- attends its urchavams and ticipates so vigorously and ques- hadn’t taken any readings for tre. A member of the Hindu nathan is not celebrated in chariot-pulling festivals. He tioningly that all of us have to decades!! Educational Organisation, he India, there’s no portrait of him travels by train for two-and-a be on our toes, and goes about He lives right close to the heads the managing committee anywhere in India, but the half days (I think) each way to as if he is 18. He does not accept Parthasarathy Temple, Thiru- of one of the schools run by it. Library of the US Congress, the Ayodhya, and stays in the room “lifts” in others’ cars and insists valikkeni. What a man! When He is an active mentor of the world’s largest and most famous attached to the temple. He tells on being independent. At 92, I comes such another? Go, Ranganathan Centre for Infor- library, has his statue at its me that all the garlands, incense hesitate to accept engagements mark him well, and take his mation Studies. entrance. How will this country etc. for the deity are devotedly or travel out, but not Parthasa- blessings. From Madras to Singapore for the INA (Continued from page 5) Nawaz Khan were court- help to many refugees during Cyril did very well. His diplo- Indian, a member of a notoriously the large-scale carnage at the officers after Japan surrendered, I martialed. Many others were matic career spanned postings prodigal community not known for charged for torture and murder time of partition. It was during in Karachi, Bonn, Jakarta, as its wealth, lending money to one had access to his file and classifi- the trials and this work that cation before that, followed his or abetment of murder. These Consul-General at San whose people constituted the trials attracted huge publicity, Cyril caught the eye of Nehru Francisco, First Secretary at traditional bankers and money- later INA career up to the time he who impressed with the officer was retaken, and was personally and public sympathy for the de- Washington and Chancellor in lenders of the north! When Cyril fendants, who were considered and his bearing, stated that he Paris, finishing with spells as had a sudden and fatal heart the subject of considerable interest could provide him a job in the . patriots of India and fought for Ambassador to Finland and attack, it was they who rushed him to my Intelligence colleagues Indian Foreign Service IFS. Stracey was taken to Delhi the freedom of India, ran high. Madagascar. Reports mention to hospital and later helped carry Perusing the Nehru papers, I in January 1946 and together Outcry over the grounds of the him as being considered a ‘most his coffin in a last gesture of came across substantial corre- with a number of others put on trial, as well as a general emerg- eligible bachelor’ while in San friendship. spondence between Stracey and trial. It is a long and convoluted ing unease and unrest within Francisco and also of his Eric had by then retired from Nehru during the 1946-48 story but proof was hard to the British, ultimately forced amusing complaints about his his IPS position in Madras and period. Nehru mentions him to come by, much of the documen- Field Marshal Claude lodgings and landlady while in moved to Australia. In 1989, he Patel, about Stracey’s request to tation had been destroyed or Auchinleck to commute the Washington DC. returned to India to sell Charles- archive all collected INA mate- lost and several communities sentences of the three defen- Eric and Cyril had purchased ton and with that the last link rial, of Stracey’s request to pressure on the administration dants in the first trial. a small retirement home the Straceys had to India was induct all INA officers for train- to disband the INA trials. Most Cyril was dismissed from the Charleston in Coonoor, to broken. A few educational ing in the IMA (Nehru replied of the INA officers were dis- army and upon release from the which Cyril moved after retire- scholarships and the Stracey that that would not be advis- missed from service or de- Red Fort, worked for a year as ment from the IFS. He contin- Memorial School in Bangalore able as they were over age, but mobbed. Colonel Prem Sahgal, Secretary of the INA Relief and ued with philanthropic work provide faint memories of that that he would recommend to Colonel Gurbaksh Singh Dhil- Rehabilitation Committee in and was an active member of family. Patel and Baldev Singh that lon, and Major General Shah New Delhi, which proved of the Coonoor branch of the AIS. While Cyril states, I decided they be appointed into State His 78 rpm records, his piano that I will join the INA, this forces). He was involved with and his garden gave him the thing has become a reality and the refugee relief operations solace he sought. why should not an Anglo connected with the disasters of Eric’s retelling of his Indian be part of it as well? Eric CHENNAI HERITAGE Partition. Stracey was also the brother’s last days is sad and explains it differently. In Cyril’s secretary of the goodwill mis- poignant. Cyril lived on at case, predilection would have No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, sion to Ethiopia under Ammu “Charleston” until his death in been reinforced by the pressure Swaminathan (Lakshmi November 1988, enjoying his of his regimental peers. He was Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 Menon’s mother). music and his books, but keeping not the sort of person mind- Stracey repaid his debts to much to himself. Apart from a lessly to follow the natural I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / I have just his family and friends from the bachelor friend or two, his only course expected of Anglo-Indi- seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. back-pay he received after the company was a Marwari family, ans and side automatically with G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for war for his army services and the Simrathmulls, who lived near- the British, nor would he have Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, POW period, and he even had by. They were generous and open- wanted to incur the sneers and MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year 2018-19. a little extra. He himself hearted friends – husband, wife contempt of his other Indian G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment and a accepted, Nehru gifted a marble and five bright sons, who had him colleagues for a member of a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an fragment, a part of the demol- over for dinner every Sunday night community they already re- additional Rs...... ished INA monument which and ran errands for him. (He did garded as lackeys of the Raj. It (Rupees ...... ) Please keep/put me read ‘Subhas Ch’ after the dust on your mailing list. not keep a car in his later years was these factors rather than had settled and India was free. and did not like going down to the Name : ...... any special feeling of national- This was retrieved by a local bazaar in person). As a humorous ism that would have moved him Indian in Singapore. What hap- Address: ...... sidelight, when their business ran to join the INA along with most pened to it later, is not known. into trouble, Cyril helped them of the other Indian officers of All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by Speed As promised, Nehru gave Post only. with a loan which they duly repaid his battalion. him a position in the IFS where – a strange case of an Anglo- (Concluded) 10 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2018

was showing a popular Marilyn Monroe film. He quickly clari- To Sir, with love fied that the visit was to see the Indian News Review which was he T.K. Ramanathan and practice. He also brought effective coach. He was a hard showing excerpts of a tennis T award for the best tennis into the game his theories based taskmaster with a benign touch, match between Krishnan and player of the year was presented on physics and mathematics, which made the learning pro- Prichant in the India-Belgium to Prajnesh Gunneswaran at which served to expand his cess thoroughly enjoyable. The Davis Cup tie. As soon as the the recent Annual Day of the range of shots and angled place- author of this article was fortu- Review was over, the trainees, Tamil Nadu Tennis Associa- ments. “The shortest distance nate to be one of his trainees. to their disappointment, were tion. This must have kindled between two points is the Sir, as they addressed him, marched out of the theatre! nostalgic memories in TKR’s straight line connecting them”. would stand on the middle ser- TKR closely followed his students who took the initiative Using this axiom in tennis, he vice line a few feet away from trainees’ performance when to institute this award in the explained that the ball hit at the the net, with a large basket con- they participated in tourna- early nineties. The father of the top of its bounce flat and firm taining around 50 balls which ments. When they won, he was legendary R Krishnan was with a short back-swing would he fed to each and every pleased and when they lost, he known for his love for tennis travel faster to the disadvantage trainee. The 30-minute work- analysed the reasons for the de- and competition, old-world val- of the opponent. Both Krishnan out covered all aspects of the feat and outlined fresh strate- T.K. Ramanathan. ues, singlemindedness and in- and Ramesh Krishnan used this game, including foot-work, gies. The author as a novative approach. shot to their advantage even back-swing, follow- through, Vivekananda College student TKR was first a tennis player against top players. economy of movement, etc., was to play in the finals of the Erskine Cup as the best Doubles and later became a coach. As a TKR laid emphasis on the and was quite exhausting. College tournament against his team in Madras University. player, he excelled in regional combination of coaching, physi- professor TB Balagopal, an ef- Sankar continued to be a regu- tennis, reaching top ranking cal training and competition; fective and skilled veteran who lar participant in City league both in Madras Presidency and used in the right proportion, G by was a well-known past cham- and Club matches. His younger in Delhi in the 1930s and 1940s they had a synergetic effect. V.K. Parthasarathy pion of Madras Presidency. In brother Kumar played for Ma- respectively. He was also Krishnan attributes all his early the pre-match briefing, TKR dras University and continued ranked No. 7 at the national victories (he won the Stanley advised his trainee not to fall to participate for many years in level. While in Delhi, he was so Cup as a school boy in 1950, the into the trap of pitching his wits Club tournaments. The author popular a tennis player that the National Championship in Coaching was not however against the opponent, known himself won the Stanley Cup Viceroy would send his car to January 1954 and the just sweat and toil, there were for his spins and uncanny place- and the Erskine Cup, captained pick him up for a game of ten- Wimbledon Junior Champion- many light-hearted moments. ments. “Don’t use your brains. the Madras University and nis, much to the awe of the ship also in 1954) to his father’s On Sunday mornings, after the Instead rely on your legs and re- State teams and participated in neighbourhood! coaching alone. His rapid rise session, TKR took the trainees turn every ball so as to wear him many state and national tour- After his seven-year stint in thereafter came largely through to Rayar Café in Kutcheri Road out”. This ploy was indeed suc- naments in India, and also in Delhi as a government servant, competition. TKR also played and treated them to exquisite cessful! Ceylon and Pakistan. Many of he returned in 1948 to his na- a key role in shaping his grand- idlis. When Krishnan’s letters Among the earliest trainees the trainees are keen tennis tive Tenkasi where he focused son Ramesh to win the came from abroad, TKR would were (late) S Amrithalingam, supporters today. on his son Krishnan who was Wimbledon Junior Champion- read to the trainees the infor- and his brother SK TK Ramanathan passed showing great promise as a ten- ship in 1979. His other grand- mation on the tournaments in Sundaramurthy, a keen partici- away in 1990 at the age of 80, nis player. In 1950 he moved to son, Shankar also benefitted which Krishnan had partici- pant in club, local and state leaving behind a rich legacy. To Madras to further Krishnan’s from his coaching to the point pated, the players he had met tournaments. Lakshmi perpetuate his memory, N education and tennis. He also of playing for India in a Davis and other tennis-related news. Mahadevan progressed to win Sankar, taking the lead, pro- built a house (Ram Nivas) to Cup tie. They also got to see the cham- the Asian, All-India Hard- posed that the trainees found which he added a tennis court, When Krishnan began to pion in action, interact with Court and Ceylon Champion- an endowment named after and installed floodlights later play in tournaments across the him and even play with him ships in 1963, achieving No. 1 their Coach. The corpus would (1954). globe as a seasoned player, TKR whenever he came home. ranking in women’s tennis. She be used to give an annual mon- According to Krishnan, his had time to train others indi- Although cinema was not continued to play competitive etary award to the best player of father was a self-taught player vidually, both morning and Sir’s cup of tea, as he felt it had tennis for many more years, the year, in consultation with and coach. Bill (William) evening at his house. His a corrupting influence on winning many laurels. Her sis- Tamil Nadu Tennis Associa- Tilden’s book “A-Z of Tennis” knowledge, experience and a youngsters, the trainees were ter Sharada played for Madras tion. Later, for practical rea- was his guiding light. It enabled fund of common sense, com- thunderstruck when one fine University. Leading industrial- sons, the corpus was transferred him to develop his own game bined with strong communica- afternoon, he organised a visit ists of today, N Sankar and N to the TNTA to be used for the through intensive application tive skills, made him a singularly to the Globe cinema hall which Srinivasan combined to win the same purpose.

Madras Musings is supported as a public service by the following organisations

Amalgamations Group Bata India Limited

The Hindu F.L. Smidth Limited Group of Publications

Rane Group RAYALA GROUP

Since 1856, Sundram Fasteners Hotels Resorts patently leaders — A WELLWISHER Limited and Palaces TVS MOTOR COMPANY

PublishedPublished by S. by Muthiah S. Muthiah for Chennai for ëChennai Heritage, Heritageí, No. 9, Cathedral 260-A, TTK Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600086, 018printed and by printed Anu Varghese by T J George at Lokavani at Lokavani-Hallmark Southern Printers Press Pvt. Ltd., Pvt. 122,Ltd., Greames 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 006, 600 edited 006. Editedby S. Muthiah,by S. MUTHIAH. 2-F, 1st Cross Street, Vijayaraghava Road, T’Nagar, Chennai 600 017, and owned by Chennai Heritage, Regd. Office No. 9, Cathedral Road, Chennai 600 086.