Trieste Town guide. The monuments on San Giusto hill date back to the remote Roman and Medieval times, bearing witness to as an ancient town; the beginning of the modern town, however, could be said to date back to 1740, when Maria Teresa rose to the throne of Austria: her reforms and initiatives affected all aspects of Austrian, and therefore Triestine, life. The town stands out against the blue sea and sky at the very tip of the Italian and appears like a sort of final Mediterranean mirage to anyone travelling along this northern stretch of coast. You can see that Trieste is different and original in the way its streets and splendid squares are lined up and overlooked by its impressive palazzos of outstanding architecture. There are stately buildings throughout the historic centre, often with neoclassical style flanking eclectic style, Art Nouveau and neo-Gothic.

3 Castello di San Giusto Built between 1470 and 1630, the castle rises up from the hill in the heart of the ancient town, offering a striking panorama. Its construction began in the late 15th century and was extended in later periods. This can be seen from the irregular floor plan of the castle; the central part was commissioned by Federico II (1471), the round rampart dates back to the Venetian period (1509), the Hoyos-Lalio rampart to 1561 Monuments and the Pomis, or “flowered” flamen, who was born in Trieste. rampart, to 1630. The castle The theatre seated about six never had a defensive role. thousand spectators and its fixed and places The castle museum, the armoury proscenium overlooked the sea. and the lapidario tergestino are of interest all open to visitors. TRIESTE - A CITY OF Cattedrale di San Giusto WORSHIP AND RELIGION This was formed in the 14th century by joining two basilicas Being a melting pot of peoples erected between the 9th and 11th and races, the town inevitably centuries on a Roman area has a wealth of different places of worship. Its exterior is of worship and religion: embellished with a Gothic the Greek Orthodox Chiesa rose window in white stone. di San Nicolò dei Greci Inside, it is a five-aisle It has a neoclassical façade and inside retains its beautifully basilica with a wealth of th Piazza Unità d’Italia The square is also home to two art. The mosaics in the decorated 18 century structure th with rich religious furnishings. This is one of the largest and other 18 century monuments: apse and on the The Serbian Orthodox Chiesa most beautiful squares directly the baroque fountain of the walls are di San Spiridione overlooking the sea. It was built Four continents (Mazzoleni, particularly 1751) and Emperor Charles VI’s It was opened to worshippers in 1870 by architect G. Bruni stunning. and renovated in 1999 column (Fusconi, 1728). in 1868. Built in a neobyzantine style, with magnificent interiors by architect B. Huet. The Arco di lavished in gold. impressive palazzos bordering Riccardo it are, from left to right: Palazzo This Roman del Governo (E. Hartmann, 1905) gate dates back the headquarters of the prefect, to the first century BC, and was Palazzo Stratti (A. Buttazzoni, part of the Augustan walls built 1839), Palazzo Modello around the city. (G. Bruni, 1873), the Town Hall (G. Bruni, 1875), Palazzo Pitteri Teatro Romano (U. Moro, 1790), the only This dates back to between the palazzo dating back to the first and second century AD but 18th century, the former was only unearthed last century. Palazzo Vanoli (E. Geiringer It was built thanks to the and G. Righetto, 1873) munificence of Quintus and the Lloyd Triestino Palazzo Petronius Modestus, emperor (H. Von Ferstel, 1883). Traianus’s procurator and

4 5 Tempio israelitico wife Charlotte for a short but Eclectic style Built to a design by Arduino happy period. The rooms are Palazzo Gopcevic - Via Rossini and Ruggero Berlam in 1912, sumptuously furnished in 4 (G. Berlam, 1850), Central this is one of the largest varying styles and it was here Railway station - Piazza della synagogues in Europe. that the young couple lived Libertà (1878), Palazzo della Chiesa di Sant’Antonio their happiest moments before Riunione Adriatica di Sicurtà - Taumaturgo o Nuovo their love was torn apart Piazza della Repubblica (1912), An impressive, sober suddenly by Maximilian’s tragic Palazzo della Posta (1894) and neoclassical building designed death in Mexico in 1897. The Palazzo delle Ferrovie (1840) - by Pietro Nobile, a leading splendid park in front of the Via Vittorio Veneto. architect in Triestine castle with its many exotic neoclassicism. species was designed by Art Nouveau Style Maximilian himself, a botany Casa Batoli - Piazza della Borsa enthusiast. National Museum. 7 (M. Fabiani, 1905), other OTHER PLACES buildings in Art Nouveau style OF INTEREST can be seen at Via Commerciale style of the Venetian coffee DIFFERENT STYLES 21, 23 and 25, at Viale XX shops, but they soon took on Settembre 35, at via Tigor 12, their unmistakeable Viennese Faro della Vittoria IN TRIESTE and in various other places feel, both in their furnishings The lighthouse was built in across town. and in the services they offered. 1927 by Berlam and Mayer in Neoclassical style Their fame is linked to the Istrian stone. It is surmounted Palazzo Carciotti - Riva III memory of literary, political and by a lantern and scaled dome, Novembre 13 (M. Pertsch, 1802), HISTORIC COFFEE HOUSES even conspiratorial gatherings. from which a bronze winged Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi - Some have kept their style and Victory soars upwards. Besides Piazza Verdi 1 (M. Pertsch, Tradition, culture and art make furnishing, such as Caffé San lighting the , it is 1801), Palazzo della Borsa - the Trieste historic coffee Marco, Caffé Tommaseo, a commemorative monument to the sailors who died in the First World War.

Tram di This rack tram has linked the town centre to the uplands since 1902. The steep journey up offers a marvellous view of the town and the . The tram stop at the Obelisk is at the beginning of a panoramic path leading to Prosecco village.

Castello and Parco di Miramare Built in white Istrian stone, this was the home of archduke Maximilian of Hapsburg and his houses ideal places for Caffé Torinese and the pastry Piazza della Borsa 14 socializing, settings where time shops La Bomboniera and Pirona, (Mollari, 1806), Chiesa seems to have stopped in the whereas others, like Caffé degli di Sant’Antonio Taumaturgo Belle Époque. Their origins date Specchi, Caffé Stella Polare, Caffé o Nuovo - Piazza S. Antonio back to the 18th century with the Tergesteo and Caffé Ex Urbanis Nuovo (P. Nobile, 1842). first botteghe da caffé, in the have undergone renovation.

6 7 Einaudi 1, his first place of work; Saba bookstore the poet ran from of The Arabian Nights, published Caffé Garibaldi in piazza Unità 1919 in via S. Nicolò. in sixteen volumes from 1885 to d’Italia; the Biblioteca Civica 1888 with his title of The Book (town library) at Piazza Hortis 4, Another noteworthy writer, Scipio of a Thousand nights and a where he read the great Slataper, was born in Trieste on night. European writers discussed in his articles; Villa Veneziani and factory at Via Italo Svevo 22/24; Villa Tika at Via Nazionale 18 and Villa Letizia at Via Basovizza 8 in Opicina.

James Joyce was born in Dublin in 1882 and died in Zurich in 1941. He is one of the most important European writers of the twentieth century. He lived in Trieste twice, from 1904 to 1915 and from 1919 to 1920, where LITERARY ITINERARIES he finished writing the Dubliners IN TRIESTE and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. He composed the short prose-poem Giacomo Joyce The lives of many famous men and a play called Exiles here and who were either born in Trieste he also began writing his famous or who lived there for a while, work of Ulysses, writing some of were spent on the seafront and in the rugged hinterland. its most significant chapters in Walking in their footsteps can this town. The Irish writer moved prove both intriguing and several times during his stays in interesting. Trieste and all his homes can be

found across the town, as can the th myriad places he often visited. July 14 1888 and died on Ettore Schmitz, whose pen name December 3rd 1915, at Podgora, was Italo Svevo, was born in fighting with the . Trieste in 1861 and was a friend Trieste can also be enjoyed In Il mio Carso, he deals with the of James Joyce. He is one of the through the eyes of another relationship between Trieste and greatest writers of contemporary famous poet, Umberto its Slovenian hinterland and their Italian literature. The places in his Saba, the son of Ugo ensuing peculiarities. life and those mentioned in his Abramo Poli and Rachele novels (A life, Emilio’s carnival Coen; his pen name was Fulvio Tomizza, who was born and Zeno’s Conscience) can still taken from his beloved in Materada, Istria in 1935 and exert some fascination: the house nanny’s name. He died in Trieste in 1999, was where he was born at viale XX entitled his first consciously sympathetic to the heartache of those who lived in Settembre 16; the Schmitz family collection of poetry these lands (Materada, The Girl residence at Via Carducci 12; the “With my eyes” (1912); from Petrovia, The Acacia Wood). l’Istituto Commerciale Revoltella in this poetry he sees And last but not least, the famous (a business school) at Via Battisti himself through his British consul, explorer, translator 12, which he attended after his hometown. Trieste is a and orientalist Richard Francis studies at the Jewish school constant, important Burton (1821-1890) spent the at Via del Monte 3; the Berlitz presence latter part of his adventurous life school at Piazza Ponterosso 4, in all the poet’s in Trieste. Here he wrote a book where he studied English and work. You can on the Roman Baths in met Joyce, one of the teachers still find the Monfalcone and his best known there; the Banca Union at Via book by far: the translation

8 9 volumes, newspapers, Civico Museo del Risorgimento magazines and manuscripts. and Sacrario Oberdan The Joyce Museum is one of the 5 Via XXIV Maggio (Piazza most complete study centres in Oberdan) - Tel. 040 361675 devoted to the Irish writer, Documents, photographs, James Joyce. It promotes uniforms, relics and paintings knowledge of the writer through relating to the facts and people works, shows, conferences and involved in the local Risorgimento and irredentist multimedia educational materials. Major events. There is also a memorial chapel to Guglielmo Oberdan, museums Civico who was executed for making an Largo Papa Giovanni XXIII, 1 attempt on the life of the Austrian Tel. 040 301479 Emperor Franz Joseph in 1882. in Trieste An ambience museum housed in a renovated 18th century villa, Civico Museo del Mare with all the original furnishings Via Campo Marzio, 5 chosen by the Sartorio family. Tel. 040 304885 It holds 18th and 19th century A science museum narrating paintings, Flemish tapestries, the story of marine life in Trieste Biedermeier furniture, and the shipbuilding industry

Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte Four institutions in one building. and the Orto Lapidario The Civico Museo di Storia from its origins up to the 19th Piazza della Cattedrale, 1 Naturale presents examples Tel. 040 308686/310500 century. One section is dedicated of zoology, mineralogy, botany, to fishing, another to J. F. Ressel The Museum of History and Art geology and palaeontology who invented the propeller. is dedicated to local archaeology (display of a complete 18th century Italian majolica, (prehistoric, protohistoric and the Museo Ferroviario Roman period), and is enriched androsaurus skeleton), African paintings and sculptures ranging th Via Giulio Cesare, 1 with Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan fauna, collections of corals and from ancient art to the 20 madrepores, ornithological century and a collection of Tel. 040 3794185 and Mayan collections. It includes With its display of fifteen or collections and collections of Tiepolo drawings. ancient findings from the town so electric and steam-powered and its surrounding area. The amphibians, reptiles and locomotives, the museum bears Orto Lapidario contains Roman mammals, plus a large collection witness to the history of the tombstones and monuments of insects. The Museo Sveviano, railways in Trieste with and the cenotaph to the famous a documentation centre, models, relics, archaeologist J. J. Winckelmann, conserves the works of the photographs and who died in Trieste in 1768. Triestine writer, Italo Svevo, as documents. well as a private library, recently Civico Museo di Storia Naturale, Museo Sveviano, Biblioteca Civica bequeathed by his daughter. “Attilio Hortis” (town library) The Biblioteca Civica, the main and the Joyce Museum public library, preserves the Piazza A. Hortis, 4 town’s historical memory Tel. 040 6758200 with its collection of 420,000

10 11 Civico Museo in the Friuli Venezia Civico Museo Morpurgo Modern art gallery Giulia region specifically Via Imbriani, 5 Via Diaz, 27 dedicated to oriental art. Tel. 040 636969 Tel. 040 6754350 It houses collections of art, Ambience museum in the Borgo Baron Pasquale Revoltella travel mementoes, arms Teresiano. It is a splendid donated his splendidly and instruments from China example of a bourgeois house furnished 19th century house and Japan. from the second half of the to the Trieste city council, 19th century. This magnificently for it to become a modern art Museo della Comunità Ebraica furnished home is particularly gallery. 19th century Italian “Carlo e Vera Wagner” interesting thanks to the excellent painting (O. Borrani, F. Nittis Via del Monte, 5 conservation and wealth of its and A. Mancini) and sculpture Tel. 040 633819 rooms, each representing (L. Bistolfi, D. Barcaglia, The Jewish museum houses a different historical style. P. Canonica and D. Trentacoste) items of ritual art belonging to are both well represented here, the community, to bear witness as is foreign painting from to Jewish life in the town.

between the 19th and 20th centuries (F. von Stuck, L. Zorn, I. Zuloaga and G. Bilbao y Martinez) and art from the twenties and thirties (V. Bolaffio, A. Nathan, P. Marussig, E. Sambo, C. Sbisà, D. Stultus, M. Mascherini and R. Rovan). At the bottom of the staircase is a graceful statuesque group (P. Magni) portraying the cutting of the Isthmus of Suez.

Civico Acquario Marino Civico Museo della Risiera Molo Pescheria, 2 di S. Sabba Riva Nazario Sauro, 1 Via G. Palatucci, 5 Tel. 040 306201 Tel. 040 826202 A science museum, housed in National monument since 1965. the Art Nouveau building of the Built as a rice-husking factory, former fishmarket, the Pescheria during the German occupation Centrale (G. Polli, 1913). It has the Risiera was first converted 25 tanks filled with seawater into a clearing station for the which is pumped up to a height concentration camps and then of 10 metres in the bell-tower into Italy’s only extermination and then allowed to drop into the tanks. It houses a wide camp, equipped with range of tropical and marine a cremation furnace. fauna as well as two penguins, which are the real attraction Riserva Naturale Marina for young and old alike. di Miramare Viale Miramare, 349 Civico Museo d’Arte Orientale Tel. 040 224147 Via San Sebastiano, 1 Protected marine area, Tel. 040 3220736 created by the WWF; Situated in an 18th century swimming, sailing and fishing palazzo, this is the only are forbidden.

12 13 It hosts the typical fauna and Museo Postale flora of the Trieste coast. Palazzo delle Poste Italiane Underwater tours are available. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 1 Tel. 040 6764264 Science Centre Immaginario Scientifico Riva Massimiliano e Carlotta, 15 Grignano - Tel. 040 224424 A new form of science museum combining the enjoyment of discovery and knowledge to interactive games and multimedia shows.

Civico Museo di Guerra per la pace Diego De Henriquez Via Revoltella, 37 Tel. 040 948430 In the Via Cumano, 24 (heavy duty vehicles, artillery) surroundings A display of military relics from the two world wars collected by of Trieste the Triestine scholar, Diego de Henriquez, designed to help visitors reflect on the outcome of using human intelligence for the purposes of war and peace. Museo Commerciale Via San Nicolò 7, Tel. 040 6701234/229 This trade museum was founded by the Chamber Castello di Duino of Commerce as part 34013 Duino-Aurisina TS of the celebrations for its 250th Tel. 040 208120 anniversary. The elegant residence of the Princes della Torre e Tasso Museo Etnografico di Servola was begun in 1389. Via del Pane Bianco, 52 This beautifully furnished castle Tel. 040 827248 gave hospitality to famous Founded privately, the museum names in international art and documents the customs and literature: Johann Strauss, Franz Civico Museo Teatrale traditions of Servola with Liszt, Marc Twain, Gabriele Carlo Schmidl photographs, old edicts, and D’Annunzio and Rainer Maria Rilke, whose name is given Via Rossini, 4 various items. It displays the to the panoramic pathway Tel. 040 6754072 various rooms of a house, connecting Duino to Sistiana. The library specialized in music including a kitchen with an In the garden wanders the ghost and theatre stems from Carlo oven for baking bread. of the White Lady, among age- Schmidl’s personal library. old trees and cascades of flowers. It includes a rich collection of musical items and a newspaper Grotta Gigante library. Borgo Grotta Gigante - TS Tel. 040 327312

14 15 The largest in the world You can go for a charming stroll open to tourists. It stands out in the harbour (Mandracchio) not only thanks to its size, and through the narrow streets, but also thanks to the stunning where the typical restaurants constellating its offer excellent fish dishes. immense vault and to its It is famous for its carnival stalagmites. Inside, the which marks the local social and cultural life. Muggia Vecchia, the Geophysical Observatory old part of town and the small has set up a very sensitive Basilica dell’Assunta from the seismograph, the only scientific 10th century are well worth a visit. instrument worldwide for measuring land tides.

Carsiana Sgonico TS - Tel. 040 229573 Botanic garden. Eight karst environments have been recreated with their own particular forms of vegetation on a surface area of 6000 sq.m.

Rocca di Monrupino and shrine A 14th century fortress where the Nozze Carsiche (karst weddings) are still celebrated every two years in typical traditional costumes.

Foiba di Basovizza National monument, a sad which flows into a striking document of the atrocities of Risorgive del waterfall at Bottazzo. The the Second World War. It is the The karst river finally sees the vertical walls of the eastern largest common grave in Italy. light again after flowing crest are ideal for practising underground for 35 km. rock-climbing. Muggia A small Istrian-Venetian town, the Val Rosandra Casa Carsica last strip of the Trieste province This typical mountain-like karst Monrupino TS - Tel. 040 327240 on the coast. Its historic centre is area was formed by the rock An example of rural architecture enclosed by medieval walls and erosion of the Rosandra creek, in the karst area. overlooked by the castle.

16 17 Strada Costiera Miramare/Autostrada Ve-Ud Opicina-Carso/Slovenia-Croazia Cartografia L.A.C. Firenze. Autorizzazione n.7 dell’08/05/2007 Cartografia L.A.C. Firenze. Photos: Crozzoli, Valdemarin, Town museum archive, FVG Tourism archive

Civico Museo della Risiera di S. Sabba Numeri utili/Nützliche Val Rosandra/Muggia Telefonnummern/Useful Telephone Numbers/ Numéros utiles/Koristne Städtische und Polizia Municipale Polizia Stradale Krankenhäuser/Hospitals/ Kommunalstadion/ Politeama G. Rossetti Aeroporto klicne πtevilke Überlandverkehrslinien/ Via Genova, 6 Tel. 040 4194311 Hôpitaux/Bolniπnic Town Stadium/Stade Viale XX Settembre, 45 Ronchi dei Legionari, Gorizia City and district bus Tel. 040 366111 Verkehrspolizei/Traffic Communal/Ob≥inski Tel. 040 3593511; (informazione voli) Stazione Trieste Centrale services/Autobus urbains Städtische Polizei/ police/Police Routière/ Posta Centrale Piazza stadion Sala Tripcovich Piazza Tel. 0481 773224 Piazza Libertà, 8 et extra urbains/Podjetje Municipal Police/Police Prometna policija Vittorio Veneto, 1 Libertà, 11 Tel. 040 6722357; Flughafen (Auskünfte über Tel. 892021 mestne in primestne linije Municipale/Mestna policija Tel. 040 6764282 Pala Trieste Via Flavia Teatro Miela Flüge)/International Airport Bahnhof/Railway station/ Pronto Soccorso Hauptpostamt/ Sporthalle/Indoor Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi, 3 (Flight Information)/Aéroport Gare/Centralna postaja Imbarco linee marittime Carabinieri - Pronto Via Pietà, 2 Tel. 118 Central Post Office/Poste stadium/Gymnase/ Tel. 040 365119; Teatro (Informations vols)/Letaliπ≥e locali - Molo Pescheria intervento Tel. 112 Notdienst/First Aid/ Centrale/Centralna poπta ∏portna dvorana Cristallo “La Contrada” - Ronke (Informacije o letih) Stazione autocorriere Tel. 800 016675 Bereitschaftsdienst/ Urgences/Nujna pomo≥ Via Ghirlandaio, 12 Piazza Libertà, 11 Lokale Schifffahrtslinien/ Public emergency Centro Congressi Palasport di Chiarbola Tel. 040 948471 Tel. 040 425020 Local Shipping Lines/ rescue/Urgences/ Ospedale Maggiore Molo Bersaglieri, 3 Via Visinada, 5 Theater/Theatres/Théâtres/ Autobusbahnhof/ Embarcation lignes Center za obveπ≥anje Piazza dell’Ospitale (Stazione Marittima) Tel. 040 772373 Gledaliπ≥a Bus Station/Gare maritimes locales/ Tel. 040 3991111; Tel. 040 304888 Sporthalle/Indoor Terminal Aeroporto routière/Postaja Vkrcevaliπ≥e lokalnih Questura Via Tor Bandena, 6 Ospedale Cattinara Kongresszentrum/ stadium/Gymnase/ Trieste Piazza Libertà medkrajevnih avtobusov pomorskih linij Tel. 040 3790111 Strada di Fiume Conference Centre/Centre ∏portna dvorana (c/o Silos) (bus n. 51) Polizeipräsidium/ Tel. 040 3991111; Congrès/Kongresni center Tel. 800 955957 Trieste Trasporti (linee Taxi: Radio Taxi Police Headquarters/ Ospedale Materno-Infantile Teatri: Flughafen Terminal/ Trieste urbane ed extraurbane) Tel. 040 307730; Commissariat/Kvestura Burlo Garofolo Stadio Comunale Nereo Teatro Comunale G. Verdi Airport terminal/ Via d’Alviano, 15 Cooperativa Alabarda Julia Via dell’Istria, 65 Rocco Via dei Macelli, 2/5 Piazza Verdi Terminal Aéroport/ Tel. 800 016675 Tel. 040 490039 Tel. 040 3785111 Tel. 040 384141 Tel. 040 6722111; Letaliπki terminal DSF design / Print: la Tipografica Srl

Turismo FVG Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, 4/B 34121 TRIESTE T. +39 040 3478312 F. +39 040 3478320

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