sign in sign up
<<
Home , Korean paper, Paper clothing, Paper model

J. fash. bus. Vol. 18, No. 3:73-90, Jul. 2014 ISSN 1229-3350(Print) http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.3.73 ISSN 2288-1867(Online)

A Study of Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

Hong Sungsun Dept. of Design, Kimpo College

Abstract

Paper, once known and used only as a medium for or , is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, and an environment-friendly material for fashion, while the functionality of its formative characteristics and esthetics have been newly highlighted. On this basis, this study performed a content analysis of paper couture and categorization of types of paper modeling techniques based on 904 paper couture submitted to paper fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. Analysis results showed that paper textile types were most common at 86.64%, while techniques using laminating, bonding, overlapping or paper as-is represented 62.17%. Expressive techniques in which paper was cut or torn and attached to was 11.62%, paper folding was 5.75%, drawing and coloring 4.65%, and finally, paper cutting was 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles, a paper technique was 6.75%. Moreover, other techniques in which paper modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing was blended were 3.65%, and Dak peeling textiles were 1.33%. Paper paste moulding textiles types represented 1.44%, above all papier mâché techniques of 0.55% and creasing and holding techniques were 0.88%. Paper is sufficient to express the artists’ creativity as well as having qualities as an artistic medium, such as variability through combined use with other materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. Also, various paper modeling techniques can be blended with textiles for a generalized technology that overcomes the limits of paper and textiles.

Key words : dak peeling textile, paper couture, paper modeling techniques, paper textile, paper paste moulding textile, paper yarn textile

I. Introduction Paper is a common material in human life; not just a transcription material for writing text, drawing

Corresponding author: Hong Sungsun, Tel. +82-32-569-1156, Fax. +82-31-999-4205 E-mail: [email protected] This work was supported by Kimpo College’s Research Fund. This research was presented at the 2012 Fall Conference of The Korean Society of Fashion Business.

73 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

pictures, etc., but also used for wrapping, filling, experimental and challenging material for artists currency and for single-use household goods. It such as designers harmonizing the past and is a cultural product with strong ethnicity present or modern paper artisans. expressed through its form reflecting The purpose of this study is be verify that generational and societal characteristics as a paper couture would be possible using physical common, essential part of life culture, and characteristics of paper as a clothing design moreover reflects the ideal beauty of a material, and these characteristics of paper generation to form a basis for human life. clothing and of the various paper modeling The present fashion industry has outgrown techniques were compared and considered to regular clothing materials, moving toward apply the characteristics of paper as a material increased comfortable, active functionality to to textiles as well. Content analysis methods assist in daily life, and is also seeking individual were used in this study with previous research development through new, unique materials. forming its basis to classify paper modeling Interest in and use of fashion materials techniques and to categorize and define them corresponding to interest in environmentally-frien according to form. Photographs of paper dly well-being is also on the rise. couture works were used as a material to Furthermore, in an era of feeling, individual analyze 921 paper works submitted to paper emotional satisfaction with a product is an clothing exhibitions, fashion shows and important consumer element, and the importance performances. It is intended as a basis to once of materials in the fashion industry is magnified again highlight paper clothing as artistic cultural all the more. Therefore, new, creative materials content to increase the artistic value added surpassing previous concepts are in demand. As through paper. well, demands for artistic clothing through internationally competitive products embodying the individuality of the creator based on artistic II. Paper and Fashion experimentation are contributing directly and indirectly to the textile fashion industry through 1. Paper and Textiles emotional products together with practical clothing infused with artistic spirit: in other Paper is used for text preserving people’s words, the development of practical, artistic cultural activities and has been used for recording clothing. Moreover, the individuality of materials as a transcription material to transmit information and textures brings creative, unlimited potential through pictures, etc. since before the Chinese to emotional fashion products. Within this Han era. It is also used for packaging, such as modern age in which high-functional textiles are Fang-ma-tan, Qin dynasty bamboo slips and in development and textile materials are hyeoncheon paper, or for filling. Plant fibers used becoming more abundant, paper is a material as natural materials in Eastern paper-making were capable of satisfying the aesthetic demands of made to disperse evenly in water, and this paper consumers seeking environmental friendliness stock was beat with feet or hammers, after which and creativity. It is traditional and, through it was formed into sheets and dried to create a awakening emotional, regressive instincts, is an fiber sheet. However, in actuality non-fibrous

74 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

additives were included in most paper and elastic recovery. However, paper fibers have manufacturing, and there are now paper no orientation and they do not possess manufacturing techniques that do not use water elasticity, durability, or elastic recovery, so are and create a second paper with only synthetic difficult to launder (Yongsook Kim, 2011). textiles, as well as third such as polystyrene paper and non-woven paper (C. Jun, 2. The Clothing 2012). In the western countries as well, paper such The first paper record of paper clothing comes as papyrus was used for keeping records. The from around BC 4 in China and records the modernization of paper manufacturing methods creation and use of a paper shroud (Koresky, along with the development of printing spurred 2009). Following the development of paper on development up to the present day, and manufacturing in China, it was used not just for pens or sharp charcoal were used instead of the recording but for clothing and interior decorating Eastern brushes while derived from trees as a household good (Seungchul Lee, 1998). and of a suitable length was used. Through the There are records of paper clothing in as 1) use of a Fourdrinier machine, the use of well, worn due to a shortage of textiles during Western paper expanded with long continuous the reign of King Injo of Choseon Dynasty. To paper made by putting textiles on a belt and combat the cold winter, King Injo had 500 draining their moisture. jackets and 400 paper sheets, that was failures' Paper and textiles have plant fibers in exam paper sheets (落幅紙 ) made into clothing common, but paper is a “thin form made and worn by the people of Kwanbuk (Cho, with plant fiber materials” or “thin layer of fiber 1988). Spiritual costumes made from paper are made from separating individual fibers, removing also made and used in the Buddhist cremation water from them using some kind of medium, ceremony or when moving toward the Way of and then drying them” and both paper and Heaven. Corpses are dressed in paper clothing textiles have different physical properties and as well as Jiyusam (paper clothing soaked in oil) functions (An, 1994). Compared to the (Y. Lim & Sang, 1998). Japanese paper, widely-used material of textiles, there are was widely used in daily life, with Kamiko (paper differences in the length and thickness of fibers shirts) used in Buddhist scriptures in the Heian as well as the ratio, not to mention differences era in 988, and made as Japan’s first paper in the manufacturing process. Textiles are clothing with overlapping layers of paper rather connected by friction and mechanical force than weaving or (Leitner, 2005). between fibers and undergo a strengthening Shirts, collars and sleeves made of paper process through adhesion with , , appeared for the first time in the West in 1853, weaving, knitting, etc. to become widely used as and after this new innovation in clothing, were materials for clothing due to their physical and used until 1870 and were so popular that a functional characteristics such as manufacturer in Boston, USA sold 75 million orientation, elasticity, durability, water-proofing, paper collars in one year. Various everyday

1) Fourdrinier machine: A long continuous sheet of paper is made by putting textiles on a belt and draining moisture.

75 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

products such as suit vests, hats and aprons media as a peculiar idea unique to young were made with paper, and a popular song female hippies at the time. called “The Age of Paper” expressing the The use of Hanji in particular aroused great superiority of paper was even sung in London interest through regional festivals such as the music halls. Afterwards, paper clothing was Jeonju Hanji Fashion Show and Wonju Hanji limited to disposable aprons or surgical masks Festival, and its use diversified from artistic and made of light, practical non-woven fabric or stage costumes to costumes for theater, film with a similar exterior to that of paper and all kinds of performances, wedding attire, (Y. Jun, 2000). performance , and party clothing, while it is Recently, paper clothing has become known also used to make neckties, gloves and bags. as a medium for artistic expression, transmitting Figure 5 shows the vividly colored paper mini the creator’s feelings and ideas, and various dress worn as a stage costume for singer Baek paper materials and crafting techniques are used Ji-young’s 8th album, intended to evoke Alice in for this purpose. Non-fabrics such as paper, Wonderland with its Paper Heart concept. vinyl, heavy metals, glass, plastic and rubber are Since 2000, Hanji fashion design competitive used in clothing while paper in particular is in exhibitions have been held with the purpose of the spotlight as a new environmentally-friendly, expanding the base of Hanji fashion and training healthy crafting material for modern clothing the next generation, and various techniques have (Jiseon Kim & Yum, 2013). In the artistic been showcased, indicating hanji’s development clothing movement in the US in the latter half of as a material and its use in paper clothing the 1960s, paper clothing was mainly used for through these fashion shows and exhibitions artistic or stage costumes and became a new (Kang & Shon, 2008). form of art derived from the meeting of clothing Aside from being used as a formative material, and (Choi, 1987). Figure 1 shows the paper is also used for patterns and in grading, pages of a telephone book used as-is like cutting and dyeing in the fashion industry’s fabric in paper clothing of the 1960s ("1960’s production process. For sublimating Dress", 2008), and Figure 2 shows a printing in particular, paints or dyes are printed on model wearing ready-made paper clothes from the paper and pressed onto the fabric (polyester, the American Scott Paper Co. with papier mâché etc.) using heating to apply the color as printed. jewelry including a belt and toe ring as a In printing, dyes are printed on paper and the marketing tool. For one dollar, women could buy color or pattern of the paper is pressed to fabric the dress and also receive coupons for Scott and heated to print (Yoon, 2011). This is a logical paper products. The paper of the 1960s method used in the textile industry for fast also still inspire contemporary fashion designers, fashion or small quantity batch production system. including Yeohlee and Vivienne Tam, who have on occasion incorporated paper into their 3. Types of Paper Couture designs as in Figure 3 (Paton, 2005). Figure 4 depicts an experimental paper wedding dress Paper is used not only in painting and made and worn in Korea in the 1970s, and the but in various formative arts in fields of crafts and paper wedding dress was discussed in the fashion as well (Jeonghwan Kim, 2010).

76 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

Figure 1. Figure 2. Figure 3. Figure 4. Figure 5. Phonebook Paper Paper Dress Vivienne Tam, 1970s’ Paper Bak Jiyoung’s Dress by Waste Produced by Scott Who Designed the Wedding Dress in Paper Mini Dress Basket Boutique Paper Co., 1966 to-die-for Digital th by Mars of Issued of Life HP “Clutch” Korea, “Weekly on 8 Solo Album, Asheville Magazine, in 2008, Women”, Edited Designed by (ca. 1966-68). Collection of Univ. and Has Explored by Hankookilbo Stylist Collection of the of Wisconsin Chinese Paper - http://m.blog.d Choi Heiryun Children's Museum Memorial Library -cutting Methods aum.net - http://www.hanky of Indianapolis. - www.wisconsinh with Her Fabric ung.com/news - http://en.wikipe istory.org - http://yellowpa dia.org/wiki/File:Pa perdress.wordpres per_dress.jpg s.com

One advantage of paper as an artistic medium using the qualities and soft flexibility of paper. If is its natural use of environmentally-friendly paper modeling techniques such as paper string plant materials. As well, recreated physical crafting or paper paste molding are used, the materials or recycled waste materials such as essential physical form and qualities of paper various advertisements, magazines or change so that unique forms can be created. If newspapers are recycled in the field of junk art flat paper is combined with water and , to create with various forms and various transformed sculptures can be created functions (Jinyoung Kim & Kan, 2010). using the receptive qualities of paper to suit the Additionally, various kinds of paper and purpose of the artist. The raw material of paper, expressions can be created depending on how plant fiber, and especially the fibers of the paper paper is combined with other “receptive” mulberry tree used in hanji, can be preserved for materials in the recycling process. Hanji in a long time thanks to its characteristic bonding particular can be used uniquely for various between fibers and the abundant flexible cells of decorative surfaces or 3D forms if other non-fibrous when Dak paper folding is materials are added during the manufacturing used without chemicals or oxidation (Jeonghwan process. Kim, 2010). Paper’s essential form can be transformed in In this study, paper couture was classified various ways to create different modeling forms according to paper modeling techniques, taking

77 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

advantage of the characteristics of paper clothing forms are created by knitting or weaving through various artistic media. The after shredding paper or cutting it finely and characteristics of paper clothing according to making tape with thread or string. Finishing with each method of expression were classified into soy milk or persimmon tannin or doing paper textiles type, paper yarn textiles type, lacquering increases its durability (Shin & Pak, paper paste molding textiles type, Dak peeling 2004). The strength and pliability of cut paper textiles type and others with the intent to take yarn woven into strings after cutting and twisting the characteristics of paper clothing based on is high and it can even be washed in water, each method of expression into consideration; while it is also said to be suitable as a material the methods of expression and characteristics of for summer attire thanks to its moisture each type of paper clothing are as follows, absorption, drying and anti-bacterial anti-odor based on previous researches (Kang & Shon, properties (Yongsook Kim, 2011). 2008; Yongsook Kim, 2011; K. Lee & Kim, 2005; Thirdly, paper paste molding textiles types use H. Lim, Jeon, & Ju, 2011; Shin & Pak, 2004; paper’s hydrophilic properties. After the paper is Sujeong Lee & Cha, 2004). cut, a paste of water and glue is created for Firstly, in paper textiles types, paper clothing is paper clothes which are formed (engraved or made using dyed, patterned or inscribed paper embossed) according to the artist’s desires. or waste paper as if they were textiles. To Waste paper can be reused in the Western Papier increase the paper’s sturdiness and durability, Mâché2) or in paper paste molding to make multiple sheets of paper are overlapped or household goods, etc., and if soybean or perilla woven similarly to thick paper or colored paper oil is applied after crafting, the product is more crafting techniques, while gauze or adhesive resistant to water or insect damage and can be clothes wick is attached to the reverse side of used for a long time. Creasing and holding the paper. There are also techniques such as technique in which paper is wetted and beaten mola techniques and paper cutting techniques until hard and dry takes advantage of the that create cut work and cut out effects using environmentally friendly qualities of paper and can intaglio and relief suitable to the characteristics feel similar to leather, with increased durability of clothing after lining a framework with paper and hard creases. Paper is soft due to its fibers and cutting, tearing off and attaching colored and hardened so it does not easily tear, and the paper patterns or irregular motifs, such as use of Hanji is effective as a paper crafting five-color whole paper techniques. technique with potential in the development of Secondly, paper yarn textiles types can be modern textile industry technology (H. Lim et al., used to create various crafts as well as to 2011). colorfully express the author’s intention based Fourthly, Dak peeling textiles types, particularly on methods of joining patterns while knitting or Hanji after the bark of the paper mulberry tree weaving (Jin, 2007), similarly to paper weaving used as material for it is wetted, then beaten or paper string crafting. In these methods, paper with a hammer to spread thin, are used as a

2) Papier mâché: A paper crafting technique in which paper is softened in water and mixed with glue and then shaped into the desired form.

78 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

textile in paper clothing. The bark of the paper wick attached to the paper’s reverse. It is a mulberry is inelastic and weak, so it tears easily; comparatively simple method in which strength, however, it is a suitable material for art wear as durability, sensation and insulation are increased, it can express edge's lines irregularly with its though the paper is not very pliant. woven form. Secondly, tear off and attaching technique is Fifthly, other types combine and use various an expressive paper modeling techniques which materials, mingling cloth and other materials with were torn off various or colored paper and paper or blending the above methods to express attached on paper sheets or paper clothing. This various fashion images through paper clothing. method is easier than and can be used to decorate with different expressions for more decorative effects. III. Methods Thirdly, paper cutting or cut work is an expressive technique creating embossing or In this study, content analysis was used to effects to suit the characteristics of analyze research materials from previous studies clothing, cut using a graver, etc. after a pattern relating to paper crafts and paper clothes and is drawn on the paper, similar to cutwork or through this paper modeling techniques were cut-out clothing details. However, with paper’s defined and classified into categories in order to advantage of not unraveling, different methods analyze paper clothing. 921 paper couture's are possible. This technique is similar to whole photos which were submitted paper fashion paper crafting. shows, exhibition and contests from 2001 to Fourthly, in the drawing and coloring method, 2013, were materials and were analyzed. The drawing or coloring such as , expression techniques used to make the paper ink-and-wash painting, drawing, sprinkling, or couture were mainly judged with reference to attaching decals is done on a completed work each work’s introduction and explanation or paper textile. according to paper modeling techniques as Fifthly, the technique of paper folding classified and categorized by 3 fashion and combines various fashion details such as pleats, paper clothing experts. ruffles or frills to decorate the entirety or portions of paper clothing by folding paper in various motifs, and can give a sense of surface 1. Category for Analysis or volume depending on the form of the paper folding method to express various fashion Based on preceding research, paper couture t images. ypes were classified as paper textile, paper yarn Sixthly, paper weaving technique can use textile, paper past molding textile, Dak peeling te paper strings for props sold as decoration and xtile, or other types. Paper modeling techniques can be used to create various forms according that were categorized for analysis were classified to the method of weaving. Paper is made into based on previous researches as in Table 1. the form of tape or cut finely and twisted, then Firstly, in paper sheets as is technique, paper knit or woven. is used like fabric as-is or multiple sheets are overlapped or woven with gauze or adhesive

79 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

Table 1. Category for Analysis and Sources: Paper Modeling Techniques and Characteristics of Expression

Paper Paper couture modeling Characteristics of expression technique Sources type technique A method in which paper is used like fabric as-is or paper textile Youngsook Kim (2011) multiple sheets are overlapped or woven with gauze as-is Kang & Shon (2008) or adhesive wick attached to the paper’s reverse. An expressive technique in which various and colore Tear off and d paper is cut or torn off and then attached into pa Youngsook Kim (2011) Attaching per or paper couture. Paper An expressive technique creating embossing or engr Paper cutting Textile aving effects to suit the characteristics of clothing, Sujeong Lee & Cha (2004) or cut work cut using a graver, etc. A method in which drawing or coloring such as calli Drawing & graphy or painting is done on a completed work or coloring paper textile Kang & Shon (2008) A method using details such as pleats or decorating Paper folding surfaces using paper folding. Paper Cutting or shredding paper, then making tape or thr Paper Youngsook Kim (2011) yarn ead and finally weaving or knitting together to make weaving Shin & Pak (2004) textile a pattern.

Embossing or engraving with a paper paste using pa Youngsook Kim (2011) Papier mâché Paper per, water and glue. K. Lee & Kim (2005) paste molding Wetted and beaten paper or paper sheets layering t textile Creasing & Youngsook Kim (2011) echniques, durability is increased and it feels like le holding H. Lim et al. (2011) ather.

A technique in which paper mulberry bark is wetted, Dak peeling textile beaten with a hammer and then spread thinly and u Youngsook Kim (2011) sed as a textile.

Techniques combining the above and mixing paper Others with subsidiary materials for clothing such as tassel This researcher s, tape, zippers, bias thread, ribbon or feathers

Next, papier mâché, made by mixing paper Eighth, creasing and holding technique, paper with water and glue and forming the resulting hardens as it is wetted and beaten and the paste into various forms to create paper bonding properties of water are used in this products, can be made using waste paper and technique. If multiple layers are made, durability has increased strength and waterproofing, but is increased and it has a naturally creased less pliability. surface that feels like genuine leather.

80 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

Table 2. Numbers and Sources of Paper Couture Analyzed

Number Year Title of Exhibition or Fashion Show Organizer and Supervisor of works 2001 45 2001 Hanji Fashion Fair 2002 49 2002 Hanji Fashion Fair 2003 65 2003 Hanji Fashion Fair 2004 32 2004 Hanji Fashion Fair 2005 34 2005 Hanji Fashion Fair 2006 52 2006 Hanji Fashion Fair Jeonju Fashion Association 2007 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion 2007 42 Show 2008 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion 2008 39 Show 2009 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion 42 2009 Show 8 Project Runway Season6 Episode5 Bravo Media LLC 2010 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion 45 Jeonju Fashion Association Show 2010 52 2010 Invited Hanji Fashion Exhibition Jeonju International Exchange 33 1st Korea Hanji Couture Contest Culture Association, Buan Park 2011 Jeonju Hanji International Hanji 41 Jeonju Fashion Association Fashion Show 2011 Jeonju International Exchange 37 2nd Korea Hanji Couture Contest Culture Association, Pan World Art Institution 2012 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion 41 Jeonju Fashion Association Show 2012 International Invited Hanji 41 Jeonju International Exchange 2012 Fashion Show and Exhibition Culture Association, Small & 2012 Invited Hanji Couture Contest 64 Medium Business Administration for Seoul Gift Show 44 2012 K-Culture Hanji Festival KCul Foundation, ART PRO-VISION 46 2013 K-Culture Hanji Festival ART PRO-VISION ART PRO-VISION, Pan World Art 61 2013 Korea Hanji Couture Contest 2013 Institute Project Runway Korea Season3, 8 CJ E&M, OnStyle, Seoul Metro City All Star Total 921

Ninth, Dak peeling textiles are made with paper Finally, the others is other techniques combine mulberry bark which is wetted, beaten with a the above technique and mixing paper with hammer and then spread thinly and used as a subsidiary materials for clothing such as tassels, textile for increased volume and decorative tape, zippers, bias thread, ribbon or feathers for surfaces. varying and individual expressions.

81 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

Table 3. Contents Analysis of Paper Modeling Techniques for Paper Couture N=904

Types of Paper couture Paper modeling technique F % %

Paper textile as-is 562 62.17 Tear off and Attaching 105 11.62 Paper textile type Paper cutting or cut work 24 2.65 86.84 Drawing & coloring 42 4.65 Paper folding 52 5.75 Paper yarn textile type Paper weaving 61 6.75 6.75 Paper paste molding textile Papier mâché 5 0.55 1.44 type Creasing & holding 8 0.88 Dak peeling textile type 12 1.33 1.33 Others 33 3.65 3.65

2. Subjects and Methods for Analysis as the 3 experts’ opinions did not agree, and results of the analysis of the other 904 paper As listed in Table 2, the subjects of this study works were as shown in Table 3. were works from paper clothing exhibitions, Paper couture in paper textile type made from fashion shows and contests from 2001 to 2013, paper textiles using paper as-is, coloring it, a total of 921 paper couture, and photos tearing off and attaching, paper cutting, paper provided by artwork collections or websites from folding, and drawing or coloring techniques were these fashion shows and exhibitions were used the most common 86.64%. Paper yarn textiles as research materials. The 921 works were types made by making tape from paper or classified into categories based on paper cutting it finely and twisting it to make string, modeling techniques by 3 paper clothing and then knitting or weaving it, represented 6.75%. fashion experts, and the expression technique in Other types of paper clothing made by particular was evaluated with reference to item combining various paper modeling techniques or introductions, explanations and reviews. mingling paper with other subsidiary fashion materials made up 3.65% of the total, and paper paste molding textiles types and Dak peeling VI. Characteristics of Paper Couture textiles types were 1.44% and 1.33% respectively. according to Paper Modeling As shown in Table 3, among the methods Technique used within paper textile types, using paper sheets as-is, overlapping it to increase strength A total of 921 paper clothing works were and durability, attaching adhesive wick to use analyzed and divided into 10 categories based like fabric, or weaving made up the highest on paper modeling techniques by 3 and percentage with 62.17%. paper clothing experts. 17 works were excluded

82 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

Table 4. Analysis of Paper Couture by Paper Modeling Techniques

Type of Paper modeling techniques and representative paper couture paper Tearing off and attaching couture Paper textile as-is techniques technique

Paper textile Paper cutting or cut work Drawing & coloring Paper folding techniques type techniques techniques

Paper weaving techniques

Paper yarn textile type

Papier mâché Creasing & holding techniques

Paper paste molding textile type

Dak peeling skin

Dak peeling textile type

Paper Paper Paper textile as-is + Paper textile Paper textile as-is weaving+paper folding+drawin paper cutting as-is + , + furs, feather cutting g & coloring pads and yarns and zipper

Others type

83 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

Next, techniques involving tearing off and sleeves, etc. to decorate a coat with paper and attaching on paper sheets or paper clothing thin cotton pads overlapping for increased fabric were 11.62%, while paper folding techniques sensation and insulation. used to evoke fashion details, e.g. pleats, and Figure 10 and Figure 11 show paper couture's gathers were 5.75%, and drawing and coloring decorating with tearing off and attaching techniques were 4.65% and paper cutting techniques, and in Figure 11 in particular, techniques to create cut work or cut out effects multiple colored paper were torn off gentle made up 2.65%. Paper couture representing curves and used to attach and decorate around each technique is shown in Table 4. the neckline. On the other hand, Figure 12 and

Figure 6. Figure 7. Figure 8. Figure 9. Figure 10. Newspaper Trench Black Swan, Coat Using Digital Quilted Paper Coat Various Colors of Coat designed by Designed by Printed Paper, with Fire' Tiered Paper on Irina Paper Hwang Jaegeon Designed by on Dress, Designed Challenge Project Runway Kim Kwanjung Hemline and Both by Choi Eunhee Project Runway, Korea, Season 3, - 2010 Invited Shoulders, - http://cfa.or.kr Season 5, All Star Paper Hanji Fashion Designed by Episode 6, 2008 Challenge. 2013 Exhibition, p.12 Oh Sunsook - www.bravotv.com - www.onstyle.com - http://cfa.or.kr

From Figure 6 to Figure 9 show paper sheets Figure 13 depict paper couture for which paper as-is techniques in which paper is used like folding techniques were used, with paper folded fabric. Figure 6 is from Episode 5 of Project and then used for pleating or creases on the Runway, Season 6, and shows Irina’s excellent top and the skirt. trench coat from the paper challenge in which Techniques in which clothing is made before paper was used for rich collar and sleeve or after drawing pictures or text on paper decoration. In Figure 7, paper was used as-is couture are also possible, as shown in drawing like fabric to create a superb design for Project and coloring methods in Figure 14 and Figure 15. Runway Korea Season 3 All-Star Challenge. Figure 16 and Figure 17 were shown paper Digital printing was done on the paper in Figure cutting and cut work. Paper couture in Figure 16 8 and the paper was used like fabric for a coat, was designed with 3D cutout effects on the while the picture in Figure 9 shows an appliqué clothing’s surface by cutting with a knife on the pattern with embroidery decoration on hemline, surface of clothing with various overlapping

84 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

Figure 11. Figure 12. Figure 13. Figure 14. Figure 15. Various Paper Paper Folding Drawing Geometric Colors of Tiered Folding Technique Applied Calligraphy on Patterns Drawn Paper Coat, on Ballon Paper Technique Applied on Top and Skirt, Designed by Sleeves, Bodices around Neckline, on Skirt, Designed Designed by Hu Xiao Dong and Pants, Designed by by, An Xiao Lucia Sellan - 2013 K-Culture Designed by Alexander Marjorie - 2013 Korea - http://cfa.or.kr Hanji Festival, Lim Jeeyoung - http://cfa.or.kr Hanji Couture Korea-China - 2012 International Contest, p.69 International Invited Invited Hanji Hanji Couture Fashion Show Exhibition, and Exhibition, pp.70-71 p.27

colors of paper so that the colors of paper creases formed as the paper dried, and Hanji in inside show on the surface. Various types can particular is frequently used in this technique; if be made with paper yarn textile twisting or papers of various colors were layered, their weaving techniques in which paper is made into natural variegation could be shown. The paper tape or finely cut and twisted to make string as mulberry bark used for Hanji is removed and in Figure 18 and Figure 19. beaten, then spread thinly so the resulting Dak Papier mâché techniques using the binding peeling can be used like fabric for clothing with characteristics of glue with water and paper irregular lines or hemlines like that in Figure 24. were used in Figure 20 through Figure 23. For The paper couture in Figure 25 through Figure the items in Figure 20 and Figure 21, paper was 30 were created using other techniques of cut finely and then mixed with water and glue to expression combining two or more other make a paste, which was then sculpted to techniques or mixing paper and fabric or the create paper clothing. Paper couture in Figure parts. Figure 25 shows a work made with paper 20 was created using paper molding to express cutting and paper weaving, Figure 26 is a the moment of molting from the bodies as like combination of paper folding and coloring, and snake molt. Figure 27 is paper weaving mixed with paper The paper couture used in Figure 22 and folding to realize the appearance of flowers in Figure 23 were sprinkled with or soaked in water bloom. Paper was used as-is for the top in and then layered for increased strength. Natural Figure 28 with a skirt decorated fashionably with

85 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

Figure 16. Figure 17. Figure 18. Figure 19. Figure 20. Blooming Flowers Paper Cut Paper Yarn Paper Yarn Paper Paste and Leaves Motifs Were Weaving Dress, Weaving Dress, Molding Sculpture on Bodices' Back Layered in Skirts Designed by Designed by Dress, Designed with Paper and Bodices' Lee Heenam Lee Myungshin by Jin Seongmo Cutting Technique, Front, Designed by - 2010 Invited Designed by Ting Ting Zhang Hanji Fashion - www.onstyle.com - 2010 Invited Wu Jing - 2012 Invited Exhibition, p.43 Hanji Fashion - 2012 K-Culture Hanji Couture Exhibition, p.55 Hanji Festival, Contest for Seoul pp.86-87 Gift Show, p.58

Figure 21. Figure 22. Figure 23. Figure 24. Figure 25. Paper Paste Papier Maché Papier Maché Blooming Flower Mixture of Per Molding Top and Dress and Top, Dress, Designed Dress Using Dak Weaving and Skirt, Designed by Designed by by Huh Jungsun Peeling Textile, Paper Cutting Park Junghyun Kim Soojung - 2012 Designed by Techniques, - 2nd Korea Hanji - 2013 Korea International Bae Soojeong Designed by Fashion Contest. Hanji Couture Invited Hanji - 2010 Invited Guo Man 2011, p.21 Contest, p.38 Fashion Show Hanji Fashion - 2012 K-Culture and Exhibition, Exhibition, p.23 Hanji Festival, p.33 p.71

86 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

Figure 26. Figure 27. Figure 28. Figure 29. Figure 30. Mixture of Paper Mixture of Paper Paper Textile Various Felts Feathers, Fur, Folding and Weaving and as-is on Top and and Furs on Zippers and Drawing Paper Folding Knitted Parts Paper Cutting on Paper Dress, Techniques, Techniques, Mixed and Designed by Designed by Skirt, Designed by Designed by Decorating a Tang Li Wu Qing Ping Chris Um Sohee Paper Dress, - 2013 K-Culture - 2012 K-Culture - www.bravotv.com - http://cfa.or.kr Designed by Hanji Festival, Hanji Festival, Kim Sohyun Korea-China p.89 - 2012 International International Invited Hanji Invited Hanji Couture Fashion Show Exhibition, and Exhibition, pp.76-77 p.8 tassels through paper cutting for a sense of highlighted. rhythm. Finally, Figure 29 and Figure 30 show In this study, types of paper couture were the results of techniques combining paper with categorized according to paper modeling subsidiary clothing materials, a unique techniques classified by previous researchers appearance blending the qualities of paper, felt, based on paper works submitted to paper cotton, feathers, zippers and knitting. clothing fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. And paper was confirmed to be a valuable material for V. Conclusion recreating the emotions and aesthetic consciousness of creators. Types of paper couture were divided into: Paper, once known and used only as a paper textiles types using paper like textiles; medium for printing or handicrafts, is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, paper yarn textiles types in which paper is made stage costume and performance costumes and into tape or finely cut and twisted, then knit or chosen as an environmentally-friendly material woven; paper paste molding textiles types in which the bonding properties of paper are used for fashion while the functionality of its formative to mix it with water and paste; Dak peeling characteristics and esthetics has been newly textiles types in which paper mulberry bark used

87 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

to make hanji is removed, beaten and spread to been recognized as only a material for traditional make a thin peel (or skin) used like fabric; and crafts and daily life, has become a unique other types combining multiple techniques or medium of high value added and artistic culture mixing paper with subsidiary materials. which can be expected to develop as a basis Analysis results showed that paper textiles for cultural art through fusion with fashion, types used like fabric were most common performance and stage arts. 86.64%, while techniques using bonding, Paper couture on this study were analyzed weaving, or overlapping to reinforce the interior paper works submitted to paper fashion shows, structure and strength of paper or using paper exhibitions and contests from 2001 to 2013, and as-is as paper textile types represented 62.17%. many paper couture submitted on Hanji Festival Expressive techniques through cutting or tearing for Korean Culture Events organized and off paper and attaching it to paper clothing supported by administrative organ after 2000. made up 11.62%, paper folding techniques were So, analysis results on this study will taken 5.75%, drawing and coloring techniques were possible care to evaluate of all of paper 4.65%, while paper cutting techniques comprised couture. 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles types, a paper weaving method in which paper is created References and woven after taping or finely cutting and twisting paper made up 6.75% of results. An, Y. (1994). 섬유학〔〕Textiles science . Seoul: Moreover, other techniques in which paper Hakmoonsa. modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing are Bak, J. (2011, May 6). Attraction for Barbie’s be blended were 3.65%, Dak peeling textiles types auty wearing paper dress. Hankyung. Retrieve were 1.33%, and paper paste molding textiles d from http://www.hankyung.com/news/ types represented 1.44%. Finally, papier mâché Cho, H. (1988). 한국복식풍속사연구〔The study o techniques made up 0.55% and creasing and f Korean folk history〕 . Seoul: Daewonsa. holding techniques were 0.88%. Choi, E. (1987). The study of modern art to wea Through this analysis of paper clothing r (Unpublished master’s thesis). Hyosung Wo according to paper modeling techniques, it was men’s University, Daegu, Korea. discovered that paper is adequate to express Jin, K. (2007). Research on aesthetic characterist the creator’s individuality as well as having ics of fabric expression technique of art to we qualities as an artistic medium, such as ar: Focusing on art to wear artists in the USA. variability through combined use with other Journal of Fashion Business, 11(3), 133-151. materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse Jun, C. (2012). 한지의 이해〔Understanding Hanj of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. i〕 . Seoul: . As well, various paper modeling techniques can Jun, Y. (2000). A study on the clothing design t be blended with textiles for a generalized o use : Centering round Shifu (U technology that overcomes the limits of paper npublished master’s thesis). Hongik University, and textiles, and the expansion of this together Seoul, Korea. with Hanji clothes mean that Hanji, which had Kang, J., & Shon, Y. (2008). A study on the des

88 Hong Sungsun / A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

ign of Korean Paper dress. Journal of The Kor er Industry. ean Society of Fashion Design, 8(3), 41-58. Lim, Y., & Sang, K. (1998). 종이공예문화〔The p Kim, J.〔〕 Jeonghwan . (2010). A modern aesth aper crafts culture〕 . Seoul: Daewonsa. etic study on the Korean traditional paper. Art Paton, K. (2005). Paper dresses. In Steele, Valer & Media, 9(2), 48-57. ie. encyclopedia of clothing and fashion 3. Th Kim, J.〔〕 Jinyoung , & Kan, H. (2010). A study omson Gale. 15– 16. Retrieved from http://en. on textile express technique influenced by Pri wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_dress mitive show in fashion design. Journal of Fas Shin, S., & Pak, O. (2004). A practical device of hion Business, 14(5), 112-127. clothing & craft works using Korean paper. Jo Kim, J.〔〕 Jiseon , & Yum, H. (2013). The charac urnal of Korean Society of Design Culture, 10 teristic of eco-friendly trend in fabric since 20 (3), 69-77. 00. Journal of Fashion Business, 17(4), 75-89. Yoon, C. (2011). The chemical. Seoul: Iljinsa. Kim, Y.〔〕 Youngeun . (2005). Formative applicatio 1960’s Paper Dress. (2008). Retrieved from n using Korean traditional paper. Journal of K http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/museum/artifacts orea Society Clothing Industrial, 7(5), 472-480. 2001 Hanji Fashion Fair. (2001). Retrieved from Kim, Y.〔〕 Yongsook . (2011). Paper manipulation http://cfa.or.kr techniques for garments and their characteristi 2002 Hanji Fashion Fair. (2002). Retrieved from cs. The Research Journal of the Costume Cult http://cfa.or.kr ure, 19(4), 851-862. 2003 Hanji Fashion Fair. (2003). Retrieved from Koresky, E. (2009). The origin of paper and pap http://cfa.or.kr er history in China. New York: Research Institu 2004 Hanji Fashion Fair. (2004). Retrieved from te of Technology. http://cfa.or.kr Leitner, C. (2005). Paper textiles. London: A & C 2005 Hanji Fashion Fair. (2005). Retrieved from Black. http://cfa.or.kr Lee, K., & Kim, J. (2005). The study of art wear 2006 Hanji Fashion Fair. (2006). Retrieved from applied on PVA paper: Focusing on the types http://cfa.or.kr of paper crafts. Journal of Korean Fashion De 2007 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion Show. (2 sign, 5(1), 85-99. 007). Retrieved from http://cfa.or.kr Lee, S.〔〕 Seungchul . (1998). 우리한지〔Our Han 2008 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion Show. (2 ji〕 . Seoul: Iljinsa. 008). Retrieved from http://cfa.or.kr Lee, S.〔〕 Sujeong , & Cha, S. (2004). A study o 2009 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion Show. (2 n the characterization method of materials in 009). Retrieved from http://cfa.or.kr Hanji costumes. Journal of the Korean Society 2010 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion Show. (2 of Clothing Industry, 6(4), 433-439. 010). Jeonju: Jeonju International Association. Lim, H., Jeon, Y., & Ju, Y. (2011). A study on t 2011 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion Show. (2 he application possibility as Hanji shroud mate 011). Retrieved from http://cfa.or.kr rials of Jumchi Hanji. 2011 Conference Journa 2012 Jeonju Hanji International Fashion Show. (2 l of Korean Technical Association of the Pulp 012). Jeonju: Jeonju International Association. and Paper Industry (pp. 307-313). Yongin: Ko Invited Hanji Fashion Exhibition. (2010), Buan Par rea Technical Association of the Pulp and Pap k: Jeonju International Exchange Culture Associ

89 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3

ation. 2012 K-Culture Hanji Festival. (2012). Seoul: K- International Invited Hanji Fashion Show and Exhi Cul Foundation. Art Pro-Vision. bition. (2012). Jeonju: Jeonju International Exc 2013 K-Culture Hanji Festival. (2013). Seoul: Art hange Culture Association, Small & Medium B Pro-Vision. Pan World Art Institute. usiness Administration. 2013 Korea Hanji Couture Contest. (2013). Seou 1st Korea Hanji Couture Contest. (2010). Buan P l: Art Pro-Vision. Pan World Art Institute. ark: Jeonju International Exchange Culture Ass Project Runway Season 6 Episode 5. (2009). Ret ociation. rieved from http://www.bravotv.com 2nd Korea Hanji Couture Contest. (2011). Jeonju Project Runway Korea Season 3 All Star. (2013). International Exchange Culture Associati on, P Retrieved from http://www.onstyle.com an World Art Institution. 2012 Invited Hanji Couture Contest for Seoul Gift Show. (2012). Jeonju: Jeonju International Exc Received (May 7, 2014) hange Culture Association, Small & Medium B Revised (July 8, 2014) usiness Administration. Accepted (July 18, 2014)

90