Stratford & East London East London

Home , Cable Street Mural, Captain Kidd (pub), Linenfold, Mile End Park

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Why I Love Stratford & East London Stratford I Love Why By Sally Schafer, Author love its cutting-edge galleries and start-up fashion boutiques, eclectic pubs and bars, bars, and pubs eclectic boutiques, fashion start-up and galleries cutting-edge its love constantly interesting to live in this tangle of cultures – a riot of colour, music and cuisine, anda cacophony of languages from all over the globe. Nowhere else in London do you get such a richness and variety of experience as in the east. I trendy cafes and diverse restaurants. But also the clash of history and modernity at every turn, from perfectly preserved Victorian streets and imposing riverside warehouses to the soaring towers of the Docklands and the striking architecture of the Olympic Park. I

heLENA Smith

to visit, it’s 2012. to visit, it’s boozers where notorious gangsters once hanged Captain Kidd. dining Memorable has an easy-going atmosphere and an time. An assortment top-quality of music in its renowned gallery and venues hosting festivals are annually held in Victoria never had, something for or more grisly, more ramshackle and altogether arty East London is full lovely of surprises. restaurants all of kinds. Green’s CheshireGreen’s St and Columbia Rd and power station, a completely alfresco terrace seek out Execution Dock, where they supped, catch or at the a show beautifully Park and London Fields look – but out for Bistrotheque, the or gloriously madcap Bethnal Club. Green Working Men’s Home toHome some the of more quirky Hackney’s Broadway Market are full of and a former town hall. an Have ale in attractions the city has to offer, appetite the for new and unusual. Gritty Take partTake in a Victorian school class, Hip Neighbourhoods Hip overlooking the Thames, a fish smokery original and exciting pop-up venues and experiences are served in up a disused decrepit Wilton’s, hilariously outspoken complete with the strictest teacher you eclecticgigs and DJ nights. Bethnal cute boutiques, excellent pubs and trendy cafes, while Hackney Wick hides a slightly collection eateries of with new ventures emerging (sometimes all too briefly) all the With its fusion cultures, of East London Whitechapel offersup ever-changing art Off-the-Wall East If there was ever a time was ever If there

East London: a vibrant and a vibrant East London: fascinating part of the capital.fascinating part

have long pulled in artistic communities, history, class and ethnicity. Settled by the London 2012 Festival, providing a truly technology and acres sculpted of parkland. impressive array cultural of events, will into a stunning landscape combining from 29 August to 9 September. A vast for, and a grittierfor, to side London life. But Sutton House, set incongruously amid a For thoseFor not so excited by lycra-clad larks, East London is a patchwork culture, of Olympic Summer Games from 27 July to see the city pulling out all the stops a for state-of-the-art sporting facilities, world- sea high-rises. of such as the finely restored16th-century area East of London has been transformed and there are scores hidden of galleries and art exhibitions in unexpected venues. London’s multiculturalism.London’s Cheap rents London boasts authentic Asian cuisine, alongside this are some historical gems, This year, all eyes are firmly fixed waves immigrantsof over the years, East once-in-a-lifetime summer. class architecture, the latest sustainable eastwards as London hosts the 2012 of theof poverty that it was once famous

colourful markets selling all manner of exotic ingredients and a real sense of Cultural Mix Cultural

12 August, and the Paralympic Games

Olympic City

& East London Welcome to Stratford Welcome Across the area, you’ll also find reminders 2

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0 500 m e# 0 0.25 miles A B C D E æ Top Sights (p219) 36 Mirch Masala...... B6 Whitechapel Gallery ...... A6 37 Namô...... C3 38 Pavilion...... C3

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1. Cable Street Mural 2. Columbia Road Flower Market 3. Regent’s Canal 4. Wilton’s Music Hall 5. The Gun 6. At the Counter Café (see next page) H e l na H e l na Smith Smith 11 H e l na Smith

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Taking in the land- 2 Stopping to smell the 4 Imagining life as a 17th- scaped majesty, incredible roses at London’s most century sailor on a swagger architecture and fauna- fragrant market, Columbia through Wapping (p17). filled wetlands of East Rd (p25). 5 Heading to Wh- London’s mighty Olympic 3 Investigating the fas- itechapel (p13) for a burst Park (p16). cinating history and con- of multicultural London trasting landscapes of the and authentic Bangladeshi Loved by locals Docklands (p17). cuisine.

Author Sally Schafer has lived in East London for over a decade and often looks out from her home in wonder at the brand-new Olympic Park, shimmering on her doorstep. We asked her to give us the lowdown on the local area.

What would you say are the highlights of the area? Rd E d nd a The Olympic Park is the obvious headliner – its grandeur is so striking and it’s fantastic la s R 01km s t x e# as e 00.5 miles C C that this development has regenerated what was once such a derelict and forgotten ss r E London o ll St s 1# area of the capital. On a Sunday, one of my favourite things to do is head to Columbia Fields We s N DE BEAUVOIR R e t Rd for the flower market. And then up to Broadway Market and London Fields for some e w TOWN Rd Victoria N ark shopping, top-notch coffee or a dip in the lido. I’m also a big fan of Victoria Park and the o iaP Park

Rd r r to t c

d i Regent’s Canal – perfect for a long walk or a bicycle ride, topped off with a bite to eat in h V

R n a Hackney Village. d l

gs BOW n i d Where are your favourite haunts? K ey R ackn H G The Counter Cafe does great coffee, is really relaxed and has a stunning view of the r o v HOXTON 2# e Olympic Stadium. Down by the river, Wapping Food is a truly unusual restaurant serving Rd SHOREDITCH R w excellent, seasonal dishes. And if you’re after an eclectic line-up of entertainment and real d Bo Rd St een atmosphere, Wilton’s is an absolute gem. Old alGr hn et !0 d B Any tips for places that won’t blow the budget? B R u nd r ile E d Many of the East’s top attractions are free – the Whitechapel Gallery, the V&A Museum M e tt R of Childhood, Museum of London Docklands and Mudchute Park & Farm to name a d few – and there are plenty of good-value restaurants and cafes to choose from. Keep an eye out for free gigs and club nights, or just spend your time wandering the diverse Whitechapel 5# neighbourhoods and open spaces. During the Olympics, London Live in Victoria Park Gallery â# (http://www.londonlive.uk.com/victoria-park), offers up all the sporting action for free Commercial Rd on two massive screens, plus live music, a sports park, cafe and food stalls. E ast Ind k Rd As well as all the sport, is there anything else going on this summer? LIMEHOUSE ia Doc ay Absolutely. The Cultural Olympiad, running since the Beijing Games in 2008, will he Highw T Museum of #â culminate in the London 2012 Festival (http://festival.london2012.com) from 21 June er s iv e London Docklands R am to 9 September. There’s a real feast of cultural activities, such as Radio 1’s Hackney WAPPING Th Weekend and the BT River of Music all along the Thames, as well as scores of theatre, 4# ROTHERHITHE 3# art, dance and film events throughout the capital. For more detail of this area, see Map p6 A 12 13 Lonely Planet’s 1 SightS WhiteChaPeL ROaD strEEt t Top Tip Explore: The East End & Docklands Map p6 ( Whitechapel) The East End’s main thoroughfare, Whitechapel Rd hums with the most genial way to get A vast area, the East End and Docklands has a few 1 a cacophony of Asian, African and Mid- around the east end is along standout sights but will really repay those happy to Whitechapel dle Eastern languages, its busy shops and the water. cyclists and wander and soak up the unique character of each of WhiteChaPeL BeLL market stalls selling everything from In- pedestrians can drop down its neighbourhoods. Handily, the recent opening of the The The The The FOUnDRy Historic Building dian snacks to Nigerian fabrics and Turkish to regent’s canal at the overground lines has made East London much easier Map p6 (www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk; jewellery, as the East End’s multitudinous bottom of Broadway Market to traverse. The three main areas to head for are the e e 32-34 Whitechapel rd E1; tours per person £11; ethnic groupings rub up against each oth- as as and follow the waterway to all-new Olympic Park (and neighbouring Hackney) the htours 10am & 1.30pm selected Wed & sat, shop er more or less comfortably. It’s a chaotic T T limehouse. Branching east Docklands (and adjoining waterside Limehouse and and poor place, but it’s full of life. Within

9.30am-4.15pm Mon-Fri; tAldgate East or Wh- e e of this at Victoria park, the Wapping) and Whitechapel (from which Bethnal Green nd & nd nd & nd itechapel) The Whitechapel Bell Foundry a few minutes’ walk of Whitechapel tube hertford union canal will is just a short hop away). Each of these has a few don’t- has been standing on this site since 1738, station you’ll find the large east London deliver you to hackney Wick miss attractions but also plenty of places to linger over a although an earlier foundry nearby is Mosque (www.eastlondonmosque.org.uk; 46-92 d d and the olympic park. from coffee, lazy lunch or a few jars of ale. Whitechapel rd E1) ocklands ocklands and, behind it, the Great limehouse Basin you can known to have been in business in 1570. Both Big Ben (1858) and the Liberty Bell Synagogue (41 Fieldgate st E1), built in 1899. also pick up the thames Further down Fieldgate St, the enormous path and follow it along the (1752) in Philadelphia were cast here, and Local Life the foundry also cast a new bell for New tower house (81 Fieldgate st E1) was once river to St katharine docks. a hostel and then a dosshouse but is now ¨ York City’s Trinity Church, damaged in the

London Fields On a sunny Saturday, East Enders a redeveloped apartment block. Past resi-

terrorist attacks of 11 September 2001. The s

of all ages grab some goodies from Broadway Market ig H 1½-hour guided tours (maximum 25 peo- dents include Joseph Stalin and authors Best Places to (p25) and head to London Fields (p14) for a picnic and a Jack London and George Orwell. The latter 5 dip in the lido. ple) are conducted on particular Saturdays ts Eat and Wednesdays (check the website) but are describes it in detail in Down and Out in ¨ Whitechapel Gallery With no permanent collection, ¨ Wapping food (p23) often booked out a year in advance. During Paris and London (1933). there’s always something new to check out here (p13), ¨ formans (p22) weekday trading hours you can view a few North along Whitechapel Rd itself sits before heading to Tayyabs (p18) for the daily special. the Blind Beggar (337 Whitechapel rd E1), ¨ tayyabs (p18) small but informative exhibits in the foyer ¨ Cabaret From lip-synching trannies to trashy and buy bell-related items from the shop. where the notorious gangster Ronnie Kray ¨ e pellici (p19) burlesque, Bistrotheque (p25) and the Bethnal Green shot George Cornell dead in 1966, in a turf ¨ Gun (p23) Working Men’s Club (p24) always provide a hugely fun For reviews, see p18 A reason to get your glad rags on.

Whitechapel gallery 6 Best Places to Getting There & Away Drink this ground-breaking gallery, which moved into its main ¨ Underground Central Line runs from the West End DOn’t MiSS… dove freehouse (p23) art nouveau building in 1899, extended into the library ¨ and the City to Bethnal Green, Mile End and Stratford. next door in 2009, doubling its exhibition space to 10 ¨ Social sculptures ¨ Grapes (p24) ¨ Overground From Camden and Highbury, the galleries. founded by the Victorian philanthropist canon ¨ Bookshop ¨ carpenter’s arms (p24) overground affords a quick link to Hackney, Hackney Samuel Barnett at the end of the 19th century to bring ¨ a meal in the ¨ royal inn on the Wick and Stratford. A separate branch connects art to the people of east london, it has made its name by park (p24) dining room Dalston and the southerly stops of Whitechapel and putting on exhibitions by both established and emerging ¨ palm tree (p24) Wapping. artists, cartoonists and architects, including Jackson For reviews, see p23 A ¨ DLR Starting at Tower Gateway or Bank, the DLR Pollock (his first UK show), Gary Hume, Robert Crumb, PRaCtiCaLitieS provides a scenic link to Limehouse and Docklands, as Mies van der rohe and picasso (whose Guernica was ex- ¨ Map p6 well as joining the dots with Stratford Domestic and hibited here in 1939). the gallery’s ambitiously themed www.whitechapel Best Places for International stations further north. shows change every couple of months – check the pro- ¨ gallery.org 1 East End ¨ Bus The 55 from Oxford St is a handy route to gram online – and there’s also live music, poetry read- ¨ 77-82 Whitechapel History Hackney, as is the 38 from Victoria via Islington. The 277 ings, talks and films till late on Thursday. Don’t miss the runs from Hackney to the Docklands, via Victoria Park. phenomenal ‘social sculptures’ in various (and ephem- high St e1 ¨ Museum of london ¨ Rail A quick ride to London Fields, Cambridge Heath eral) spaces throughout – there’s even one on the roof of ¨ admission free docklands (p18) or Stratford from Liverpool St. The high-speed link the building. Ask at the front desk about Janet Cardiff’s ¨ h11am-6pm tue- ¨ Sutton house (p14) from St Pancras (to be known as the Javelin during the The Missing Voice (Case Study B), an audio walk that Sun, to 9pm thu ¨ ragged School Olympics) whisks you to Stratford International in just takes you into the surrounding streets – a surreal but ¨ taldgate east Museum (p15) seven minutes. exciting interaction of art and context (you need to leave ¨ house Mill (p15) ¨ Boat During the Games you can catch a barge from a bank card as security). other features are an excellent bookshop, the Whitechapel Gallery dining room (p19) For reviews, see p13 A Limehouse to the Olympic Park. and an uberdesigned cafe on the mezzanine level. 14 15 swimmers and sunbathers during the sum- adults and children are inevitably charmed CaBLe StReet mer months. The park also has two chil- by this combination of mock Victorian dren’s play areas and a decent pub. schoolroom – with hard wooden benches cable St, just south of commercial rd, takes its name from the use of the length of and desks, slates, chalk, inkwells and aba- the thoroughfare to twist hemp rope into ships’ cables. Similarly named, but shorter cuses – re-created East End kitchen and and narrower, twine ct runs south from here. cable St is most famous for the Bat- social history museum below. ‘Ragged’ was tle of cable St (1936), in which the British fascist oswald Mosley led a bunch of his 1 Mile End & Victoria Park The The The The a Victorian term used to refer to pupils’ blackshirts into the area, supposedly as a celebration of the fourth anniversary of ViCtORia PaRk PArk usually torn, dirty and dishevelled clothes, the British union of fascists. although pockets of fascist supporters existed in the h e e Map p6 (www.towerhamlets.gov.uk; dawn- and the museum celebrates the legacy of Dr as as east end, the march was ferociously repelled by local people – thousands of Jews, dusk; tMile End, g277 or 425) The ‘Regent’s Thomas Barnardo, who founded this school communists, dockers, trade unionists and other east enders turned out in solidar- T T Park of the East End’, Victoria Park is an for destitute East End children in the 1870s.

e e ity against them. At No 236 you’ll find St George’s Town Hall building, its west wall nd & nd nd & nd 86-hectare leafy expanse opened in 1845 – The school closed in 1908 but you can expe- sporting a large mural commemorating the riots. the church just behind this building the first public park in the East End that rience what it would have been like on the is St George-in-the-east (www.stgite.org.uk; 16 cannon st rd E1), erected by nicholas came about after a local MP presented first Sunday of the month, when a Victorian d d hawksmoor in 1729 and badly damaged in the Blitz of WWii; all that now remains is a ocklands ocklands Queen Victoria with a petition of 30,000 lesson in which ‘pupils’ (adults and children shell enclosing a smaller modern core. signatures. In the early 20th century it was alike) are taught reading, writing and ’rith- known as the Speaker’s Corner of the East metic by a strict school ma’am in full Vic- war over control of the East End’s organ- Abandoned and taken over by squatters in End, and during WWII the park was largely torian regalia called Miss Perkins. It takes ised crime. He was jailed for life and died in the 1980s, what was originally known as closed to the public and was used as an anti place at 2.15pm and 3.30pm (suggested do-

nation £2). There’s also a tiny towpath cafe s s 1995. After the intersection with Cambridge Bryk Place when built in 1535 by a promi- -aircraft shelling site as well as an intern- ig H ig H Heath Rd, this traditionally poor area’s his- nent courtier of Henry VIII, Sir Ralph Sad- ment camp for Italian and then German and shop where you can pick up your own prisoners of war. At the time of writing, the slate and chalk. Friendly staff are on hand ts ts tory takes a more philanthropic turn, with leir, could have been tragically lost to his- a statue of William Booth (1829–1912), who tory, but it’s since been put under the care park was undergoing a £12-million revamp, to pass on plenty of local information and established his Salvation Army Christian of the National Trust and magnificently which will improve both the lakes, intro- background. Mission here in 1865, and the trinity Green restored. The first historic room you en- duce a skate park and create a hub building hOUSe MiLL Historic Building almshouses, poorhouses built for injured ter, the Linenfold Parlour, is the highlight, housing a cafe, community room and park Map p6 (www.housemill.org.uk; three Mill lane or retired sailors in 1695. The two rows of where the Tudor oak panelling on the walls offices in the eastern section of the park. E3; adult/concession £3/1.50; h11am-4pm sun almshouses run at right angles away from has been carved to resemble draped cloth. May-oct, 1st sun only Mar, Apr & dec; tBromley- the street, facing a village-type green and a Other notable rooms include the panelled FRaGGeD SChOOL MUSeUM MusEuM by-Bow) The House Mill (1776) operated as a chapel with a clock tower. Great Chamber, the Victorian study, the Map p6 (www.raggedschoolmuseum.org.uk; sluice tidal mill, grinding grain for a near- Georgian parlour and the intriguing mock- 46-50 Copperfield Rd E3; h10am-5pm Wed & by distillery until 1941, and is one of two up of a Tudor kitchen. There’s a shop and thu, 2-5pm 1st sun of month; tMile End) Both remaining mills from a trio that once stood 1 Bethnal Green & Hackney pleasant cafe on site. West of Sutton House, in the restored St FV&a MUSeUM OF John’s Churchyard Gardens, is 13th-century a heRO RiSeS in the eaSt ChiLDhOOD MusEuM St augustine’s tower (www.hhbt.org.uk; Mare st E8), all that remains of a church that was Daniel Mendoza (1764–1836), the father of ‘scientific boxing’ who billed himself as Map p6 (www.vam.ac.uk/moc; cnr cambridge ‘Mendoza the Jew’, was the first bare-knuckle boxer to employ strategy and speed h W demolished in 1798. On the last Sunday of Heath & old Ford rds E2; 10am-5.45pm; ; in the ring. Mendoza was born in aldgate and left school at age 13, taking odd jobs as t the month (2.30pm to 4.30pm) you can Bethnal green) Housed in a renovated a porter, being taunted as an ‘outsider’ and getting into scrapes. he was eventually Victorian-era building moved from South climb the tower’s 135 steps for fantastic views across Hackney (free). discovered by ‘gentleman boxer’ richard humphreys, 20 years his senior, who took Kensington in 1866, this branch of the Vic- him under his wing and started him training. Mendoza developed a style of fighting in toria & Albert Museum is aimed at both LOnDOn FieLDS PArk direct opposition to the norm of the day, where two fighters would stand face to face kids (with activity rooms and interactive Map p6 (www.hackney.gov.uk/cp-londonfields; and slug it out until one collapsed. exhibits, including a dressing-up box and dlondon Fields, g55 or 277) A strip of green Mendoza began a highly successful career in the ring, but eventually fell out with sandpit) and nostalgic grown-ups who amid a popular residential area of Hackney, his mentor. His most infamous fight came during a grudge match in 1788 with Hum- come to admire the antique toys. From London Fields was historically a place for phreys. Just as Mendoza was about to administer the coup de grâce, humphreys’ teddies, doll’s houses and dolls (one dating the grazing of animals. A well-frequented second grabbed Mendoza’s arm, a moment caught in a contemporary print called from 1300 BC) to Meccano, Lego and com- public space at any time, it can be thronged Foul Play on display in the National Portrait Gallery. Mendoza went on to fight Hum- puter games, it’s a wonderful toy-cupboard with crowds on sunny weekend days as phreys fairly two more times, emerging the victor and moral superior. trip down memory lane. There’s a good cafe locals hang out after a meander up Mendoza was the first sportsman in Britain to achieve cult status – a veritable on the ground floor too. Broadway Market (see p25). Built in the david Beckham of 18th-century london. he made (and lost) a fortune, wrote his memoirs and a how-to book called The Art of Boxing, mixed with the high and mighty SUttOn hOUSe Historic Building 1930s, and abandoned by the ’80s, London (including royalty) and sold branded trinkets and images of himself. Most importantly Map p6 (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sutton Fields Lido (www.hackney.gov.uk/c-london he advanced the cause of Jews in a country that had only allowed them back the house; 2 & 4 Homerton High st E9; adult/child fields-lido; London Fields Westside E8; adult/child h century before. People learned for the first time that a Jew could and would fight back £3/1; h10am-5pm thu & Fri, noon-5pm sat & £4.10/2.45; usually 6.30am-8pm) reopened – and win. sun, closed Jan; tHackney central, g394) to local delight in 2006. It gets packed with 16 17 The main focal point of the Queen Eliza- passes by this way in search of opium. The COCkney RhyMinG SLanG beth Olympic Park, as it will be known most notable attraction here is St anne’s, from 2013, is the Olympic Stadium, with a Limehouse (www.stanneslimehouse.org; cnr traditionally cockneys were people born within earshot of the Bow Bells – the church Games capacity of 80,000, scaling back to commercial rd & three colt st E1). This was bells of St Mary-le-Bow on cheapside. Since few people actually live in the city, approximately 60,000 seats post-Games. Nicholas Hawksmoor’s earliest church this definition has broadened to take in those living further east. The term cockney The striking aquatics Centre, which will (1725) and still boasts the highest church is often used to describe anyone speaking what is also called estuarine english (in The The The The greet park visitors entering from Stratford, clock in the city. In fact the 60m-high tower which ‘t’ and ‘h’ are routinely dropped and glottal stops – what the two ‘t’s sound like is the work of Clerkenwell-based architect is still a ‘Trinity House mark’ for identifying in ‘bottle’ – abound). in fact the true cockney language also uses something called e e Zaha Hadid and houses two 50m swim- shipping lanes on the Thames (thus it flies as as rhyming slang, which may have developed among london’s costermongers (street ming pools and a diving pool. The equally the Royal Navy’s white ensign). traders) as a code to avoid police attention. this code replaced common nouns and T T impressive and award-winning Velodrome

e e verbs with rhyming phrases. So ‘going up the apples and pears’ meant going up the St kathaRine DOCkS HArBour nd & nd nd & nd (aka the ‘Pringle’) has been praised for its stairs, the ‘trouble and strife’ was the wife, ‘telling porky pies’ was telling lies and aesthetic qualities, as well as its sustain- Map p6 (www.skdocks.co.uk; ttower Hill) The ‘would you adam and eve it?’ was would you believe it? over time the second of the able credentials and functional appeal. The gateway to the warehouse district of Wap- d d two words tended to be dropped so the rhyme vanished. few, if any, people still use ping, built in 1828 after 1250 ‘insanitary’ ocklands ocklands 114m, spiralling red structure is Anish Ka- pure cockney but a good many still understand it. you’re more likely to come across poor’s arcelorMittal Orbit, or the ‘Hubble houses were razed and 11,300 people made it in residual phrases like ‘use your loaf’ (‘loaf of bread’ for head), ‘ooh, me plates of Bubble Pipe’, offering a vast panorama from homeless, the dock’s current incarnation – meat’ (feet) or ‘e’s me best china’ (‘china plate’ for mate). its viewing platform. a marina for luxury yachts surrounded by The north of the park has been given cafes, restaurants and twee shops – dates

over to wetlands, which provide a much from the 1980s. It’s the perfect starting s s on this small island in the River Lea (the spaces wedged between Burdett and Grove ig H ig H point for exploring Wapping and Lime- Clock Mill opposite has been converted into Rds and Regent’s Canal. Landscaped to wilder environment than the gardens and landscaping of the southern half of the house. ts ts offices). Tours, which run according to de- great effect during the millennium year, it mand and last about 45 minutes, take visi- incorporates a go-kart track, a children’s park, which is home to the main venues. Set tors to all four floors of the mill and offer centre, areas for public art, an ecology area, to open to the public in phases from 2013, a fascinating look at traditional East End an indoor climbing wall and a sports sta- the developments to transform the park 1 Docklands industry. There’s a small cafe and shop on dium. The centrepiece, though, is architect into its promised legacy will take at least iSLe OF DOGS nEigHBourHood site. To get to House Mill, exit the tube and Piers Gough’s ‘green bridge’ linking the another 25 years to complete. Map p5 (dlr Westferry, West india Quay, canary head down the steps to the left. Continue northern and southern sections of the park Wharf) Pundits can’t really agree on whether into the underpass and at the top of the over busy Mile End Rd and planted with this is really an island; strictly speaking it’s stairs turn right, down the hill. Take a right trees and shrubs. 1 Wapping & Limehouse a peninsula of land on the northern shore towards Tesco and right again into Three nEigHBourHood of the Thames, though without modern Mill Lane. WaPPinG Map p6 (tWapping) Once notorious for slave road and transport links it would almost 1 Hackney Wick & Stratford tOWeR haMLetS CeMeteRy traders, drunk sailors and prostitutes, Wap- be separated from the mainland at West In- PaRk cEMEtEry ping’s towering warehouses, built at the dia Docks. And etymologists are still out to SOLyMPiC PaRk PArk Map p6 (www.towerhamletscemetery.org; south- beginning of the 19th century, still give an lunch over the origin of the island’s name. Map p6 (www.london2012.com/olympic-park; ern grove E3; h8am-dusk; tMile End or Bow rd) atmospheric picture of the area’s pre vious Some believe it’s because the royal kennels tstratford or Hackney Wick) From the mills of Opened in 1841 this 13-hectare cemetery existence. Although there’s nothing to actu- were located here during the reign of Henry Cistercian monks in the 1st century, to the was the last of the ‘Magnificent Seven’, ally mark it, down on the riverside below VIII. Others maintain it’s a corruption of railway hub of the 1880s (from which goods then-suburban cemeteries – including Wapping New Stairs (near the marine po- the Flemish word dijk (dyke), recalling the from the Thames were transported all over Highgate and Stoke Newington’s Abney lice station) was execution Dock, where Flemish engineers who shored up the area’s Britain), the tidal Lower Lea Valley had Park – created by an act of Parliament in convicted pirates were hanged and their muddy banks. long been the source of what Londoners response to London’s rapid population bodies chained to a post at low tide, to be required to fuel their industries. But until growth and overcrowded burial grounds. left until three tides had washed over their building work on the Olympic Park began in Some 270,000 souls were laid to rest here heads. Among the more famous people who 2008, this vast area of East London had be- until the cemetery was closed for burials died this way was Captain William Kidd, come derelict, polluted and largely ignored. in 1966 and turned into a park and local hanged here in 1701, and whose grisly tale the eaSt By BaRGe Creating world-class sporting facilities for nature reserve in 2001. Today it is a quiet, you can read about in the nearby Captain the 2012 Games was, of course, at the fore- A great way to see a different side restful site, its Victorian monuments slowly Kidd pub (p25). front of the development, but this was well of the east end is to climb aboard a being consumed by vines. There are usually balanced with the aim of regenerating this nEigHBourHood barge and tour the canals and water- two-hour guided tours at 2pm on the third LiMehOUSe area for generations to come. More than 30 ways. Water Chariots (www.water- Sunday of the month. Map p6 (dlr limehouse or Westferry) There new bridges were built to criss-cross the isn’t much to Limehouse, although it be- chariots.co.uk; happrox Apr-oct) offer a program of pleasure cruises and, MiLe enD PaRk PArk Lea, its tributaries and the railway lines came the centre of London’s Chinese com- during the olympic Games, a shuttle Map p6 (www.towerhamlets.gov.uk; tMile End) that divide up the parkland, and waterways munity – its first Chinatown – after some service for passengers travelling up The 36-hectare Mile End Park is a long, in and around the park were upgraded, 300 sailors settled here in 1890. It gets a the canal from limehouse. narrow series of interconnected green with waste cleared and contaminated soil mention in Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of cleaned on a massive scale. Dorian Gray (1891), when the protagonist 18 19 kebabs, masala fish and other starters tikka (£9) as a ‘warmer’ followed by the served on sizzling hot plates are delicious, masala karella (£5), a curry-like dish made MuSeuM of london docklandS as are accompaniments such as dhal, naan from bitter gourd, and a karahi (stewed) and raita. Daily specials are also available. meat dish. housed in a converted warehouse dating from 1802, this DOn’t MiSS… Tayyabs is hugely popular and queues often museum offers a comprehensive overview of the entire snake around the restaurant and out of the kOLaPata BAnglAdEsHi £ history of the thames from the arrival of the romans in ¨ Sailortown Map p6 (www.kolapata.co.uk; 222 Whitechapel The The The The door. ad 43. Well-organised with knowledgeable and helpful ¨ london, Sugar & rd E1; mains £4.50-9.95; tWhitechapel) This staff, it’s at its best when dealing with specifics such Slavery CaFé SPiCe naMaSté indiAn ££ e e modest restaurant serves up excellent as as as the docks during WWii, as well as their controversial ¨ docklands at War Map p6 (%7488 9242; www.cafespice.co.uk; 16 Bangladeshi cuisine. Try the haleem (lamb T T transformation into the docklands during the 1980s. ¨ new port new city Prescot st E1; mains £14-19, 2-course set lunch with lentils and spices) and the sarisha el-

e e The tour begins on the 3rd floor (take the lift to the £15.95; hclosed lunch sat & all day sun; ttower ish (fish cooked with mustard seed, onion nd & nd nd & nd ¨ Scale model of top) with the roman settlement of londinium and works london Bridge Hill or dlr tower gateway) Chef Cyrus Todi- and green chilli). its way downwards through the ages. keep an eye out for wala has taken an old magistrates court d d the scale model of old london Bridge. other highlights just a 10-minute walk from Tower Hill and ocklands ocklands include Sailortown, a re-creation of the cobbled streets, PRaCtiCaLitieS decorated it in carnival colours; the service 5 Bethnal Green & Hackney bars and lodging houses of a mid-19th-century dockside and atmosphere are as bright as the walls. community and nearby chinatown, and more detailed ¨ Map p5 The Parsee and Goan menu is famous for its oe PeLLiCi cAFE £ galleries such as london, Sugar & Slavery, which exam- ¨ www.museumin superlative dhansaak (lamb stew with rice Map p6 (332 Bethnal green rd E2; dishes £5- ines the capital’s role in the transatlantic slave trade. docklands.org.uk

and lentils; £14.95) but just as good are the h t g E E 7.80; 7am-4pm Mon-sat; Bethnal green, 8) A A there’s lots for kids here, including the hands-on ¨ no 1 Warehouse, tandoori dishes and the Goan king-prawn ting ting There aren’t many reasons to recommend a Mudlarks gallery, where children can explore the West india Quay e14 curry. Bonuses: it makes its own chutneys stroll down Bethnal Green Rd, but stepping history of the thames, tipping the clipper, trying on ¨ admission free and there’s a little garden behind the dining into this diminutive, but larger-than-life, old-fashioned diving helmets and even constructing a ¨ h10am-6pm room open in the warmer months. Anglo-Italian cafe is one of them. You’re simple model of canary Wharf. the museum has special tcanary Wharf or likely to be met by a warmer-than-average exhibitions every few months, for which there is usually ¨ WhiteChaPeL GaLLeRy dlr West india Quay greeting as you squeeze onto a table among a charge. there’s also a great cafe on site. DininG ROOM ModErn EuroPEAn ££ an amiable collection of East Enders. Map p6 (%7522 7896; www.whitechapelgal Opened in 1900 the wood-panelled caff is lery.org; 77-82 Whitechapel High st E1; mains £12- bedecked with museum-quality original 15; hlunch tue-sun, dinner Wed-sat; tAldgate The centrepiece of the Isle of Dogs is Ce- 5 eating fittings. Breakfasts are large and sustain- East) Housed in a small but perfectly formed sar Pelli’s 244m-high Canary Wharf tower, ing and the traditional English and Italian The East End’s multiculturalism has en- dining room in the Passmore Edwards Li- which was built in 1991. It’s surrounded dishes are certain to satisfy the heartiest of sured that its ethnic cuisine stretches far brary extension of the Whitechapel Gallery by more recent towers housing HSBC and appetites. Citigroup, and offices for Bank of America, and wide, with some fantastic low-key (p13), with high-profile chef Angela Hart- eateries serving authentic and value-for- Barclays, Morgan Stanley, Credit Suisse nett acting as consultant. The menu offers Viajante Fusion £££ money fare. But the area’s gentrification has and more. Londoners are divided on their small or large plates, to suit your appetite. Map p6 (www.viajante.co.uk; Patriot sq E2; tast- introduced a slew of gastropubs and more appreciation of this area, and although it is Booking advised. ing menu lunch £28-70, dinner £65-90; hlunch upmarket eateries – the latest even earning often thought of as soulless, there’s certain- Wed-sun, 6-9.30pm Mon-sun; W; tBethnal a Michelin star. Trendy and excellent coffee MiRCh MaSaLa indiAn, PAkistAni £ ly something impressive and noteworthy in green) Part of the Town Hall Hotel & Apart- shops have sprouted up all over the East Map p6 (www.mirchmasalarestaurant.co.uk; the way that this ‘isle’ has been so radically ments (but with a completely separate en- End, but there are still plenty of places to 111-113 commercial rd E1; mains £4.50-11; tWh- developed. trance on Cambridge Heath Rd), this is an get a decent fry up and a cup of tea, or a itechapel) ‘Chilli and Spice’, part of a small unexpected spot to find a Michelin-starred traditional pie with mash and liquor. Places chain based in the epicentre of London sub- FMUDChUte PaRk & FaRM FArM restaurant. The elegant dining room mar- to head if you want to sniff out your own continental food, Southall, is a less hectic Map p5 (www.mudchute.org; hfarm 9am-5pm ries contemporary design with the original favourites include Columbia Rd, Broadway alternative to Tayyabs and the food is al- tue-sun; dlr Mudchute) Entering Mudchute Edwardian features, and the very open Market and the streets just to the north of most up to the same level. Order the prawn Park from Eastferry Rd through the canopy Victoria Park (known to some as Hackney of trees, you’re greeted by a delightfully Village). surprising sight of cows and sheep, roam- ing freely in this grassy 13 hectares of Lazy MOnDayS parkland. Looking back to the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf gives you a clear sense of 5 Whitechapel the east end is peppered with some fascinating and quirky sights, but unfortunately the contrasts of this area of London. The many of them have irregular opening hours, and a lot are closed on Mondays – as lovely city farm has an array of animals, otayyaBS indiAn, PAkistAni £ are a number of restaurants, cafes and some shops. despite this there are plenty of well kept, in spacious surrounds. Kids will Map p6 (%7247 9543; www.tayyabs.co.uk; parks, waterways and neighbourhoods perfect for exploring, and many a pub in which love it, especially the llamas. There’s also a 83-89 Fieldgate st E1; mains £6.50-10; hnoon- to rest your feet and grab a bite to eat. two of the area’s best sights, the Museum of neat cafe, serving excellent breakfasts and midnight; tWhitechapel) This buzzing (OK, childhood (p14) and the Museum of london docklands (p18), are luckily both open wholesome lunch options. crowded) Punjabi restaurant is in another daily. league to its Brick Lane equivalents. Seekh 20 21 Start BethnaL GReen kitchen (where food is ‘assembled’) of- for years. The extensive menu is strong on tUBe StatiOn fers only blind tasting menus. Chef Nuno vegetarian and seafood dishes. end OLyMPiC PaRk #¥ Hackney 0500 m #¥diStance 3 MiLeS Homerton # Mendes’ dishes are inventive, beautifully Central e 00.25miles BritisH V F. COOke £

duration tWO hOURS P put together and a well-crafted and excit- i a c r Map p6 (9 Broadway Market; mains £3-4; t ing fusion of flavours. Service is spot on. For k o h d g d R r 10am-7pm; cambridge Heath, 55) If you R i a more relaxed (and cheaper) but similarly nd d a ssla The The The The (mains want a glimpse of what eating out was like Ca R creative meal, try the Corner Room E o a a c £10-12), a great little dining room on the in Broadway Market before the street was s h t R e e o first floor of the hotel – it doesn’t take res- gentrified, head to F. Cooke pie & mash C a as as r d o shop. This family business has been going d ervations. s T T R s 5 k # strong since 1900, and the shop has the

r R 6 e e # ell St a cAFE £ W P t CLiMPSOn & SOnS original signage and tiles, along with plenty nd & nd nd & nd '€ ia e t r Map p6 (www.webcoffeeshop.co.uk; 67 Broad- of family photographs around the walls and S to Vic e h

r way Market E8; dishes £4-6.50; 8am-5pm; sawdust on the floor. a d d dlondon Fields, g55 or 277) Small and sim-

M !0 ocklands ocklands #4 G Victoria d ply decorated, this deservedly popular cafe FRizzante@City FaRM cAFE £ r rd R o Park d Fo v Ol Map p6 (www.frizzanteltd.co.uk; Hackney e is housed in what was once a butchers (and R has retained the same name). Coffee is city Farm, 1a goldsmith’s row E2; dishes £4-9; d h #3 superb – it roasts its own just around the 10am-4.30pm tue, Wed & Fri-sun, 7-10pm thu; BOW W; dcambridge Heath, g55) Award-winning

corner – and it also does a fine line in sand- E nE #2

Cambridge A #£ d wiches, pastries and light meals, such as restaurant serving excellent Italian food

R ting ig HB C Heath n rd Rd ma salads and couscous. next door to one of London’s half-dozen city a ld Fo Ro m O farms, with a weekly agroturismo night b #1

our r tAPAs ££ i LaxeiRO offering special country dishes. d g Map p6 (%7729 1147; www.laxeiro.co.uk; 93 e d H H R ow columbia rd E2; tapas £4.50-8.95, paella £21.50- GaLLeRy CaFe cAFE £

ood ood e B a &~ 24.50; hlunch & dinner tue-sat, 9am-5pm sun; Map p6 (www.stmargaretshouse.org.uk; 21 old t Bethnal h #¥ t Ford rd E2; dishes £3.80-5.90; h10am-6pm; R Green Hoxton) A homely yet stylish and buzzing WA d restaurant with friendly staff providing Wv; tBethnal green) Tucked around the

lk great service. The menu offers up authentic corner from the Museum of Childhood, the neighbourhood Walk and robust raciones – the barbecue lamb is pretty Gallery Cafe is in the basement of a a winner. The handful of more ambitious lovely Georgian building. It serves simple East End Eras dishes includes paella to be shared. There but delicious vegan and vegetarian fare to This easy stroll offers an insightful view park. cross the road into the eastern sec- are tables outside on the picturesque street relaxed locals. There’s a cute courtyard at into the old and new of the east end. tion of the park and take a right towards in summer. the front for sunny days. Check the website for sporadic evening events such as jazz, exit the tube station towards the Museum the recently restored 4 Burdett-Coutts LittLe GeORGia gEorgiAn £ world and acoustic music, and film nights. of childhood and head north. Take the first Memorial (1862), a gift of angela Burdett- Map p6 (87 goldsmith’s row E2; dishes £4-8; right and continue until you can take a right coutts, once the richest woman in england hclosed dinner Mon; dcambridge Heath, g55) into cyprus pl. the surrounding area here and a prominent philanthropist. was heavily bombed during WWii (due to from here, ramble on to the east lake A charming slice of the Caucasus in East 5 Mile End & Victoria Park its industry and proximity to the docks) and and exit at the park’s southeastern tip. London, this simple eatery on two floors FiSh hOUSe FisH & cHiPs £ the tower blocks you can see if you raise cross the road and pick up the canal path is an excellent introduction to the cuisine your eyes skyward are a product of postwar next to the top o the Morning pub, crossing of Georgia; try the mixed meze for two or Map p6 (www.fishouse.co.uk; 126-128 Lau- h redevelopment. But beautifully preserved the canal at the first bridge you come to. four. The menu includes such classics as riston rd E9; mains £8.50-12.50; noon-10pm nigziani (red pepper or aubergine stuffed tMile End, then g277) 1 Cyprus St gives a taste of what Vic- undergoing extensive redevelopment for This combination with walnuts, herbs and roast vegetables) torian Bethnal Green would have looked the olympic Games, 5 hackney Wick seafood restaurant and chippy is just the like. continue left down cyprus St and back is home to a warren of warehouses and a and the staple hachapuri (cheese bread). sort of place you wish you had in your own onto old ford rd. growing community of artists. Stop off at The cafe is a good place for breakfast neighbourhood. The freshest of fresh fish and has a delicious range of salads and Just over regent’s canal lies 2 Vic- the counter cafe or formans for views of and crustaceans are dispensed from both sandwiches. toria Park, built in the 1840s to improve the stadium, and check out their latest art a busy takeaway section (where a black- the quality of life of east enders. take the exhibits. from here you’re a mere shot-put board tells you from where your fish has GReen PaPaya ViEtnAMEsE £ path down to the road around the lake and from the 6 , heralding a come) and a cheerful sit-down restaurant. Olympic Park Map p6 (191 Mare st E8; mains £6.50-8.50; head left to the 3 whole new era for the east end. The lobster bisque and Colchester oysters Dogs of alciabiades hdinner tue-sun; dlondon Fields, g55 or howling on plinths, replicas of the originals are always good, while the generous fish pie 277) This simple but friendly neighbour- that stood here from 1912. turn right here bursting with goodies from the briny deep hood restaurant has been serving up high- and then again at the end of the road and is exceptional. quality Vietnamese food to Hackney diners continue to the grand royal inn on the 22 23 of art exhibitions) and directly overlook- is claimed that Lord Nelson had secret as- DOCkLanDS DeVeLOPMent ing the Olympic stadium, this friendly lo- signations with Lady Emma Hamilton here cal cafe serves up fantastic coffee and tasty (hence the naming of the toilets). Inside, you’d probably never guess it while gazing up at the ultramodern skyscrapers that breakfasts, sandwiches and pies. The mis- the pub is mostly comprised of a dining dominate the isle of dogs and canary Wharf, but from the 16th century until the matched, thrift-store furniture, painting- area but there is a smaller room at the back mid-20th century this area was the centre of the world’s greatest port, the hub of the clad walls and relaxed atmosphere make as well as a terrace affording expansive British empire and its enormous global trade. at the docks here, cargo from global The The The The this a firm favourite with the local artist views of the Thames. On a separate ter- trade was landed, bringing jobs to a tight-knit working-class community. even up to community. race, during summer months, the pub hosts the start of WWii this community still thrived, but that all changed when the docks e e the completely al fresco a Grelha (mains as as were badly firebombed during the Blitz. haCkney PeaRL cAFE £ £15-28), grilling up dazzlingly fresh fish after the war the docks were in no condition to cope with the postwar technologi- T T (www.thehackneypearl.com; 11 Prince Edward from Billingsgate Market, just a few streets

e e cal and political changes as the British empire evaporated. at the same time enor- rd E9; lunch dishes £5-7.50, dinner mains £10-13; nd & nd nd & nd away, as well as Portuguese classics such as mous new bulk carriers and container ships demanded deep-water ports and new h10am-11pm tue-sat, to 5pm sun; W; tHack- cataplana and estapada. Call ahead if the loading and unloading techniques. from the mid-1960s, dock closures followed one ney Wick) In an unforgiving area, and on an weather’s bad. d d another as fast as they had opened, and the number of dock workers dropped from equally unforgiving site, this cafe has cre- ocklands ocklands as many as 50,000 in 1960 to about 3000 by 1980. ated a cheerful and friendly atmosphere The financial metropolis that exists today was begun by the London Docklands where you can enjoy tasty food and deli- development corporation (lddc), a body established by the thatcher government cious coffee. With large windows, outdoor in the freewheeling 1980s to take pressure for office space off the City. This rather tables and de rigueur salvaged furniture, it’s drinking & artificial community had a shaky start. The low-rise toytown buildings had trouble at- 6

a relaxed place to have breakfast or lunch nightlife d E tracting tenants, the docklands light railway – the main transport link – had teeth- A but is also open into the evening when there & rinking ting ing troubles and the landmark canary Wharf tower itself had to be rescued from is a short but frequently changing menu bankruptcy twice. Now, however, news media organisations and financial behemoths that includes some good vegie options. 6 have moved in – with citigroup and hSBc boasting their own buildings. Whitechapel the docklands today is a world of contrasts, futuristic but rich in history. RhythM FaCtORy cluB

5 Map p6 (www.rhythmfactory.co.uk; 16-18 Wh- n Wapping & Limehouse ig H itechapel rd E1; tAldgate East) Perennially naMô ViEtnAMEsE £

hip and popular, the Rhythm Factory is a tli Map p6 (%8533 0639; www.namo.co.uk; 178 5 oWaPPinG FOOD ModErn EuroPEAn ££ Hackney Wick & Stratford club and venue hosting a variety of bands Victoria Park rd E9; mains £8.50-9; hnoon- Map p6 (%7680 2080; www.thewapping FE and DJs of all genres that keep the up-for-it 10.30pm; tMile End, then g277) This pretty o sEAFood project.com; the Wapping Project, Wapping Hy- FORManS ££ crowd happy until late. place serves a carefully chosen selection of Map p6 (%8525 2365; www.formans.co.uk; draulic Power station, Wapping Wall E1; mains £14- 21; W; tWapping) Stylish dining room set punchy Vietnamese dishes in a nicer-than- stour rd E3; mains £12-19.50; hdinner thu & Fri, inDO PuB among the innards of a disused power sta- average setting. There’s a lovely garden area lunch & dinner sat, noon-5pm sun; W; tHackney Map p6 (133 Whitechapel rd E1; hto 1am sun- tion, creating a spectacular and unexpect- with a retractable roof, great for English Wick) H Forman & Son have been curing thu, to 3am Fri & sat; W; tWhitechapel) Tiny, edly romantic atmosphere. The high-quali- summers. fish here since 1905, and are notable for narrow pub bang opposite the East London ty, seasonal menu changes daily but might developing the much-celebrated London Mosque, with battered old tables, pews and LOaFinG cAFE £ include guinea fowl wrapped in pancetta, cure. Obliged to move to make way for the a couple of knackered Chesterfields under Map p6 (www.loafing.co.uk; 79 Lauriston Rd E9; or onglet with beetroot and horseradish. Olympic developments, they’re now housed the only window. Friendly staff work the dishes £4-5; h9am-6pm; tMile End, then g277) The owner is Australian, which accounts in appropriately salmon-pink premises that beautifully tat-cluttered bar, and serve de- Cute corner cafe with a glorious cake selec- for the exclusively Australian wine list. The comprise their smokery, restaurant, bar and cent pizzas (£5 to £7) to punters with the tion, lovingly displayed. Also offers sand- ‘Project’ (of which the restaurant is a part) art gallery. The diminutive restaurant, with munchies. There’s art for sale on the walls, wiches, pastries, Monmouth coffee and a also contains a regularly changing exhibi- unrivalled views over the Olympic stadium, DJs on weekend nights and interesting great range of teas, served in mismatched tion space (noon to 10pm Monday to Fri- serves a fantastic variety of smoked salmon bands on an irregular schedule. fine bone china. The outdoor tables and (the wild smoked salmon is exceptional), as day, 10am to 10pm Saturday), which is well huge windows make it perfect for people- well as an interesting range of dishes with worth popping into. watching and there’s also a tiny garden to ingredients sourced from within the British 6 relax in out back. Isles. It also has a great selection of English Bethnal Green & Hackney wines and, unusually, spirits. Simpler shar- 5 Docklands PuB PaViLiOn cAFE £ DOVe FReehOUSe ing platters are available in the bar. Make Map p6 (www.belgianbars.com; 24-28 Broadway Map p6 (www.the-pavilion-cafe.com; cnr old GUn gAstroPuB, PortuguEsE £££ sure to take a peek into the smokery next Market E8; W; dcambridge Heath, g55) This pub Ford & grove rds E3; mains £4.50-8; h8.30am- Map p5 (%7515 5222; www.thegundocklands. door and the art gallery upstairs. attracts at any time with its rambling series 5pm; tMile End, then g277) Superb cafe com; 27 coldharbour E14; mains £15-27; W; of rooms and wide range – 21 on draught – of overlooking an ornamental lake in Victoria COUnteR CaFe cAFE £ tcan ary Wharf) Set at the end of a pretty, Belgian Trappist, wheat and fruit-flavoured Park, serving breakfasts and lunches made cobbled street, this riverside pub has been Map p6 (www.thecountercafe.co.uk; 7 roach rd beers. Drinkers spill out onto the street in with locally sourced ingredients, and h seriously dolled up, but still manages to E3; dishes £4.50-8; 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am- warmer weather, or hunker down in the low- excellent coffee. W t ooze history. Previously a local dockers 5pm sat & sun; ; Hackney Wick) Housed lit back room with board games when it’s pub, dating from the early 18th century, it within Stour Space (which hosts a variety chilly. Decent gastropub fare also on offer. 24 25 CaRPenteR’S aRMS PuB terrace, which can only really comfortably bridge Heath) This converted warehouse of- Map p6 (www.carpentersarmsfreehouse.com; 6 Mile End & Victoria Park fit about a half-dozen close friends, but it’s fers hilarious transvestite lip-synching in 73 cheshire st E2; W; tshoreditch High st, cosy inside and exudes plenty of old-world its ground-floor Cabaret Room and high- dBethnal green) After a browse in the shops ROyaL inn On the PaRk PuB charm. quality dining in its stylish whitewashed along Cheshire St, you’ll probably end up Map p6 (111 lauriston rd E9; W; tMile End, then restaurant above. It’s also worth coming outside this gorgeous corner pub. Once g277) On the northern border of Vic toria PROSPeCt OF WhitBy PuB just for the Napoleon bar, a moody, slightly Park, this excellent place, once a poster pub Map p6 (57 Wapping Wall E1; W; tWapping) The The The The notorious – the pub was owned in the ’60s decadent room with dark walls (the oak by the Kray brothers, who gave it over to for Transport for London, has a half-dozen Once known as the Devil’s Tavern, the panels came from a stately home in North- e e their mother – it has been well restored to real ales and Czech lagers on tap, outside Whitby is said to date from 1520, making umberland) and plush seating; the drinks as as a trendy, yet cosy and intimate pub combin- seating to the front and a recently made- it the oldest riverside pub in London. It’s are expertly mixed and the bar staff always T T ing traditional pub architecture with con- over garden at the back. It’s always lively firmly on the tourist trail now, but there’s friendly.

e e and attracts a mixed boho/louche Hackney a smallish terrace to the front and the nd & nd nd & nd temporary touches. A back room and small yard provide a little more space for the crowd. side overlooking the Thames, a decent res- haCkney eMPiRe tHEAtrE convivial drinkers. There’s a great range of taurant upstairs and open fires in winter. Map p6 (%8985 2424; www.hackneyempire. d d PaLM tRee PuB Check out the wonderful pewter bar – co.uk; 291 Mare st E8; dHackney central, g38 ocklands ocklands beers and lagers, as well as a menu offering quality drinking food. Map p6 (127 grove rd E3; hto 2am Fri & sat, to Samuel Pepys once sidled up to it to sup. or 277) The programming at this renovated 1am sun; tMile End, g277) The Palm, the Edwardian Music Hall (1901) is eclectic to BethnaL GReen WORkinG quintessential East End pub on the Re- CaPtain kiDD PuB say the least and certainly defines ‘some- Men’S CLUB cluB gent’s Canal, is loved by locals, students Map p6 (108 Wapping High st E1; W; tWapping) thing for everyone’ – from hard-edged pol- and trendies alike, with its comforting gold- With its large windows, fine beer garden

Map p6 (www.workersplaytime.net; 42-44 Pol- itical theatre to opera and comedy. The Em- Ent d

rinking & rinking lard row E2; h8pm-2am, days vary; tBethnal flock wallpaper, photos of also-ran crooners and displays recalling the hanging nearby pire is definitely one of the best places to and a handful of different guest ales every green) As it says on the tin, this is a true of the eponymous pirate in 1701, this is a fa- catch a pantomime at Christmas. E working men’s club, which has opened its week. There’s jazz on Friday and Saturday vourite riverside pub in Wapping. Although rt doors and let in all kinds of off-the-wall from around 9.30pm. cleverly done up, it actually only dates back A in club nights, including trashy burlesque, to the 1980s. PuB ME n vintage nights of all eras, beach parties BRitannia ig H gAy 7 Shopping nt and bake offs. Expect sticky carpets, a Map p6 (www.thebritanniapub.co.uk; 360 Victoria White SWan Park rd E9; W; tHomerton, g388) A large, Map p6 (www.bjswhiteswan.com; 556 commercial tli shimmery stage set and a space akin to a The boutiques and galleries lining Colum- school-hall disco. rambling old pub, made-over in 2009, rd E14; dlr limehouse) The White Swan is a bia Rd (which are usually open at the week- FE sporting a fabulous beer garden right on fun East End kind of place, with a large end only) and the shops along Broadway ROyaL Oak PuB the park, with a barbecue running through- dance floor as well as a more relaxed pub Market and Cheshire St are part of Lon- Map p6 (www.royaloaklondon.com; 73 columbia out the day on summer weekends. Also area. Its legendary amateur strip night don’s up-and-coming independent retail rd E2; hfrom 4pm Mon-thu, from 12pm Fri-sun; serves tasty gastropub dishes and a decent takes place every Wednesday and there are scenes. If you’re after something a little tHoxton) Lovely wood-panelled pub ar- range of drinks. also cabaret and karaoke nights. Club clas- more mainstream, Westfield Stratford City, ranged around a handsome central bar sics and cheesy pop predominate. currently Europe’s largest urban shopping with a good selection of bitter and a bet- centre, can’t fail to satisfy. There’s also a ter-than-average wine list. There’s also a 6 Hackney Wick & Stratford shopping mall beneath the Canary Wharf little garden at the back and great food. It skyscrapers, with similar shops, bars and really gets into its stride on Sunday when kinG eDWaRD Vii PuB 3 entertainMent restaurants. London’s famous flower market (p25) is just Off Map p6 (www.kingeddie.co.uk; 47 Broadway E15; tstratford) outside the door. Built in the 19th century oWiLtOn’S tHEAtrE oCOLUMBia ROaD this lovely old boozer is a series of hand- Map p6 (%7702 2789; www.wiltons.org.uk; 1 grac- FLOWeR MaRket MArkEt neLSOnS heaD gAy some rooms set around a central bar. The es Alley E1; ttower Hill or dlr tower gateway) Map p6 (www.columbiaroad.info; h8am-3pm Map p6 (www.nelsonshead.com; 32 Horatio st front bar and saloon are the most convivial, A gloriously atmospheric example of one sun; tHoxton) A real explosion of colour and E2; hfrom 4pm Mon-sat, 9am-11pm sun; tHox- and there’s a little leafy courtyard at the of London’s Victorian public-house music life, this weekly market sells a beautiful ar- ton) Small, down-to-earth locals’ pub with back. A decent selection of ales and wine, halls, Wilton’s hosts a real variety of shows, ray of flowers, pot plants, bulbs, seeds and quirky decor, a fun and friendly mixed cli- and some great pub grub, make this a real from comedy and classical music to liter- everything you might need for the garden. entele, and plenty of camp tunes. highlight of the area. ary theatre and opera. You can also take A lot of fun, even if you don’t buy anything, a one-hour guided tour (£6; h3pm & 6pm jOineRS aRMS gAy the market gets really packed so go as early Mon) of the building to hear more about its as you can, or later on, when the vendors Map p6 (www.joinershoreditch.com; 116-118 Hack- 6 Wapping & Limehouse fascinating history. The hall’s Mahogany sell off the cut flowers cheaply. It stretches ney rd E2; h5pm-3am; tHoxton, g55) Deter- Bar (h5-11pm Mon-Fri) is a great way to get from Gossett St to the Royal Oak pub. minedly run-down and cheesy, the Joiners PuB GRaPeS a taste of the place if you’re not attending is Hoxton’s only totally gay pub-club. It’s a Map p5 (www.grapeslondon.co.uk; 76 narrow a performance. BROaDWay MaRket MArkEt crowded, funky old boozer where hip gay st E14; dlr limehouse) One of Limehouse’s Map p6 (www.broadwaymarket.co.uk; h9am- boys hang out at the bar, dance and watch renowned historic pubs – there’s appar- BiStROtheqUe BAr/cABArEt BAr 5pm sat; dlondon Fields, g55 or 277) There’s people play pool all night. ently been a drinking house here since 1583 Map p6 (%8983 7900; www.bistrotheque.com; been a market down this pretty street since – the Grapes is tiny, especially the riverside 23-27 Wadeston st E2; tBethnal green, dcam- the late 19th century, the focus of which “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET PAGE 26 YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Get the right guides for your trip PLANhas“ theseAll you’ve days got become to do is artisan decidePhotos, tofood, itineraries, go andarty the lists gerie,hardest and expertly partsuggestions is over.slung So together go!” in a lofty 1 TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip knick-knacks, books, recordstoYOUR help and youPLANNING vintage put together TOOLwarehouse. KITyour perfect trip PAGE YOURclothing. TRIP PLAN Photos, itineraries,Ca listsRha andRtt suggestions OUtLet St ORe FAsHion Get the right guides for your trip Welcome1 to Western USA 2 PAGE jOneS DaiRy to helpYOUR you PLANNING putFood togetherMap TOOL p 6your KIT(www.thecarharttstore.co.uk; perfect trip 18 Elling- 25 Top ExperiencesYOUR ...... TRIP 6 Welcome tot d PLANMap p6 (www.jonesdairy.co.uk; 23Photos, Ezra s titineraries, E2; fort rlistsWesternd E8; and Hackneysuggestions central, london Fields) 1 h9am-1pm Fri-sun; tHoxton) USA NeedWelcome to Know to Western ...... The USA 18 2 Thisto help wonder you put- You’lltogether find your hoodies, perfect sweats trip and jeans at this YOURfully preserved TRIP shop, set on an atmospheric outlet of the street-wear label, as well as a If You25 TopLike... Experiences ...... 20 6 Welcome to NATIONAL PARKS REGIONAL Western

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RouteNeed 66 & Scenicto Know Drives ...... from a quality 32 18 selection of cheese, alongside tion. RingUSA thebeauty andbell adventure were givento their due get in. Detailed itineraries Cultural Month by Month & nd ...... 24 Great Outdoors • • in 1872CREDIT with the creation of majestic Yellow- Western landscapes inspire ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs,’ stone, America’s À rst national park. but it’s the sound of adventure – Whoosh! Splash! Kathunk! – that gives the scenery its Hikes & drives Day trips & itineraries bread, coffees, teas, jams and cakes. Perfect punch. The big draw is the western coastline, Grapes, Green Chiles & • • stretching from the sunny shores of San Di- Going Local If You Like...... 20 ego north past the bluՖ s of central California OutdoorsItineraries ...... 40 27 Travel in the west isn’t just about ogling the to the rocky, mood-À lled beaches of Oregon scenery. It’s also about immersing yourself Family-friendlyNATIONAL PARKS In-depthREGIONAL and Washington. Red rocks, plunging gorges • • BURBeRRy Oin theU culture,t whichL is codeet for ‘digging ShOP FAsHion and prickly-pear deserts are traveler bait in into the food.’ Several dishes are represen- for stocking up on picnic food, there’s also a the Southwest where the biggest wonder is tative of local strengths and traditions: À sh the Grand Canyon, a 277-mile stunner that tacos in San Diego, Sonoran dogs in Tucson, Detailed itineraries Cultural shares its geologic treasures with a healthy steak and potatoes in the Rockies, green • •

Month by Monthd ...... 24 TravelRoute with 66 Children& Scenic Drives...... 49 32 beauty and adventure were given their due dose of Greatfun. In the Outdoors Rockies, skiing, ice climb- chile sauces in New Mexico and wild salm- CREDIT t in 1872 with the creation of majestic Yellow- 25 Map ingp and Western6 mountain landscapes(29-31 biking inspirenever looked‘oohs’ and so ‘ahs,’ onc in thehatham PaciÀ c Northwest. Regional spe- Pl E9; Hackney central, stone, America’s À rst national park. cute little cafe round the back. pretty. butThe it’s best the ofsound the outdoorof adventure west? – Whoosh!It’s cialties are as diverse as the landscapes. But ocklands encapsulatedSplash! in Kathunk! northwest – that Wyoming, gives the where scenery itsthese days there is one commonality – chefs • Hikes & drives • Day trips & itineraries EXPERIENCESTOP punch. The big draw is the western coastline, Grapes, Green Chiles & Itineraries ...... 27 g stretching from the sunny shores of San Di- Going Local RegionsOutdoors at a ...... Glance ...... 52 40 55) egoThis north past the bluՖ s of centraloutlet California Travel in the west isn’tshop just about ogling the stocks seconds from to the rocky, mood-À lled beaches of Oregon scenery. It’s also about immersing yourself • Family-friendly • In-depth and Washington. Red rocks, plunging gorges in the culture, which is code for ‘digging and prickly-pear deserts are traveler bait in into the food.’ Several dishes are represen- the Southwest where the biggest wonder is tative of local strengths and traditions: À sh BeyOnD RetRO VintAgE the Grand Canyon, a 277-mile stunner that tacos in San Diego, Sonoran dogs in Tucson, shares its geologic treasures with a healthy TravelRoute with 66 Children & Scenic ...... Drives 49 32 the reborn-as-trendysteak and potatoesbeauty in theand Rockies,adventure green were givenBrit their due brand’s current dose of fun. In the Great Rockies, skiing, Outdoors ice climb- chile sauces in Newin 1872CREDIT Mexico with and the wildcreation salm- of majestic Yellow- 25 ing and mountain Western biking landscapes never looked inspire so ‘oohs’on inand the ‘ahs,’ Paci À c stone,Northwest. America’s Regional À rst national spe- park. pretty. The best butof theit’s theoutdoor sound west? of adventure It’s cialties – Whoosh! are as diverse as the landscapes. But encapsulated in northwestSplash! Kathunk! Wyoming, – that where gives thethese scenery days itsthere is one commonality – chefs Map p6 (www.beyondretro.com; 110-112TOP and lastpunch. The bigseason’s draw is the western coastline, Grapes, Greencollections. Chiles & Prices are 27 EXPERIENCES stretching from the sunny shores of San Di- Going Local RegionsOutdoors at a ...... Glance ...... 52 40 ego north past the bluՖ s of central California Travel in the west isn’t just about ogling the to the rocky, mood-À lled beaches of Oregon scenery. It’s also about immersing yourself and Washington. Red rocks, plunging gorges in the culture, which is code for ‘digging t Whether you’ved got six days or and prickly-pear deserts are traveler bait in cheshire st; shoreditch Itiner- High st, Bethnal into the food.’ Several dishes are represen- 60, these itineraries provide a around 30%the Southwest where the biggestlower wonder is tative of local strengthsthan and traditions: À sh those on the high the Grand Canyon, a 277-mile stunner that tacos in San Diego, Sonoran dogs in Tucson, 52 starting point for the trip of a shares its geologic treasures with a healthy Travel with Children ...... 49 steak and potatoes in the Rockies, green aries lifetime. Want more inspiration? dose of fun. In the Rockies, skiing, ice climb- chile sauces in New Mexico and wild salm- 25 ing and mountain biking never looked so on in the PaciÀ c Northwest. Regional spe- Head online to lonelyplanet. green) Huge selection of vintage clothes, street. Servicepretty. The best of the outdoor west?can It’s cialties are beas diverse as thebrusque. landscapes. But COUNTRY GUIDE DISCOVER CITY POCKET com/thorntree to chat with other encapsulated in northwest Wyoming, where these days there is one commonality – chefs

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National Park Photo-packed Comprehensive Easy-to-use settlements in Utah, Spanish King’s Table great surÀ ng, sea kayaking • • • Crimson buttes and hoodoos in #÷ missions in California or Old West Fertile À elds, talentedor simply chefs beach-walking all É Utah. There’s a landscape for everyand an insatiablealong appetite the coast. towns just about everywhere. New Looking for other travel resources? mood and adventure. É for the new make Romping California Room Mexico Ready to let loose?Cultural Two words:travelers can explorea major culinary destina- • Inspirational • Adventurous • Highlights Swoosh down snowy slopes, Arizona Las Vegas. tion. Browse local food California Looking for other travel resources? Native American sites in Arizona raft on white-water rivers, markets, sample kayakPinot andbeside coastal islands, and New Mexico. There’s upscaleChardonnay at lush vine- shopping, fine dining and big- hike past waterfalls and yards and dine onclimb farm-to- boulders in the des- Autcity bustle inho Los Angeles, Sanrtable fare.Thaert. The problemnks isn’t choice Acknowledgments Managing Editors Francisco and Seattle. Are you p ### in California, it’s À nding a history buff? Visit Mormon enough time to do it all. settlements in Utah, Spanish King’s Table Fertile À elds, talented chefs Kirsten Rawlings, Tasmin missions in California or Old West and an insatiable appetite towns just about everywhere. for the new make CaliforniaThanks to Cover photograph: Stratford Looking for other travel resources? SallyReady to let loose? Schafer: Two words: a major culinary destina- Las Vegas. tion. Browse local food markets, sample Pinot and Waby McNaughtan Chardonnay at lush vine- Station (Photo by Julian Imogen and yardsJo and dine onfor farm-to- letting table fare. PAGE p ### Finney/GettyGET MORE FROM Images). YOUR TRIP Managing Cartographer me out the door, to Ed for Amanda Sierp MLearnany of about the images the big in picture, so you Looking for other travel resources? UNDERSTANDhis silvery words, Chantal Managing Layout Designer 399PAGE thisGET guide MORE are FROMavailable YOUR TRIP (and her mum) for extensive forcan licensing make sense from Lonelyof what you seeChris Girdler WESTERNUNDERSTAND USA Learn about the big picture, so you 399 knowledge and appreciation Planet Images: www. 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