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South America on a Shoestring 13 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd South America on a shoestring Guyana Suriname Venezuela p750 p913 p962 French Guiana Colombia p733 p540 Ecuador p634 Brazil Peru p281 p801 Bolivia p188 Paraguay p768 Argentina p54 Chile Uruguay p422 p929 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis, Sandra Bao, Celeste Brash, Gregor Clark, Alex Egerton, Brian Kluepfel, Tom Masters, Carolyn McCarthy, Kevin Raub, Paul Smith, Phillip Tang, Lucas Vidgen PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to ARGENTINA . 54 El Bolsón . 152 South America . 6 Buenos Aires . 57 Esquel . 154 South America Map . 8 Rosario . 79 Parque Nacional South America’s Top 15 . 10 Santa Fe . 86 Los Alerces . 155 Need to Know . 18 Paraná . 88 Patagonia . 155 First Time Reserva Provincial Puerto Madryn . 157 South America . 20 Esteros del Iberá . 90 Reserva Faunística If You Like . 22 Corrientes . 92 Península Valdés . 159 Month by Month . 25 Resistencia . 93 Trelew . 160 Itineraries . 29 Posadas . 95 Comodoro Rivadavia . 161 Off the Beaten Track . 34 San Ignacio Miní . 97 El Chaltén . 162 Big Adventures, Puerto Iguazú . 98 El Calafate . 164 Small Budget . 36 Parque Nacional Iguazú . 100 Río Gallegos . 168 Activities . 44 Córdoba . 101 Tierra del Fuego . 169 Countries at a Glance . 49 La Rioja . 108 Ushuaia . 169 Santiago del Estero . 109 Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego . 174 Tucumán . 110 Tafí del Valle . 111 MICHAEL HEFFERNAN/LONELY PLANET © PLANET HEFFERNAN/LONELY MICHAEL BOLIVIA . 188 Cafayate . 113 La Paz . 192 Salta . 116 Tiwanaku . 207 San Salvador de Jujuy . 120 Lake Titicaca . .. 208 Quebrada de Humahuaca . 122 Copacabana . 208 Atlantic Coast . 125 Isla del Sol . 213 Mar del Plata . 125 The Cordilleras & the Yungas . 215 Villa Gesell . 127 Coroico . 216 Pinamar . 128 Chulumani . 218 Bahía Blanca . 129 Sorata . 219 RIO DE JANEIRO P283 Sierra de la Ventana . 130 Southern Altiplano . 220 San Luis . 131 Oruro . 222 Mendoza . 133 Uyuni . 225 PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © PLANET HARVEY/LONELY LEE PHILIP Uspallata . 138 Southwest Circuit . 230 San Juan . 139 Tupiza . 231 Malargüe . 141 Tarija . 234 The Lake District . 142 Central Highlands . 236 Neuquén . 142 Cochabamba . .. 236 Junín De Los Andes . 144 Sucre . 241 San Martín De Los Andes . 145 Potosí . 246 Villa La Angostura . 146 Santa Cruz . 251 Bariloche . 147 The Amazon Basin . 256 Rurrenabaque . 257 IGLESIA DE SAN Parque Nacional FRANCICSO P639, QUITO Nahuel Huapi . 151 Trinidad . 262 Contents BRAZIL . 281 Amazon Jungle . 400 Parque Nacional Chiloé . 506 Rio de Janeiro . 283 Guajará-Mirim . 402 Northern Patagonia . 507 Búzios . 307 Xapuri . .. 403 Parque Pumalín . 507 Ilha Grande . 308 Futaleufú . 509 Paraty . .. 309 CHILE . 422 Coyhaique . 510 São Paulo . 311 Santiago . 424 Lago General Carrera . 512 Belo Horizonte . 320 Valle de Maipo . 439 Chile Chico . 513 Ouro Prêto . .. 322 Valparaíso . 441 Villa O’Higgins . 514 Tiradentes . 325 Viña del Mar . 448 Southern Patagonia . 515 Curitiba . 326 La Serena . .450 Punta Arenas . 515 Ilha do Mel . .. 329 Valle del Elqui . 454 Puerto Natales . 519 Ilha de Santa Catarina . 330 Copiapó . 457 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine . 522 Porto Alegre . 333 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar . 458 Tierra del Fuego . 524 Foz do Iguaçu . 336 Antofagasta . 459 Porvenir . 525 Brasília . 339 Chuquicamata . 460 Rapa Nui The Pantanal . .. 343 San Pedro de Atacama . 462 (Easter Island) . 526 Cuiabá . 346 Iquique . 467 Hanga Roa . 526 Campo Grande . 348 Arica . 471 Parque Nacional Bonito . .. 350 Rapa Nui . 528 Parque Nacional Lauca . 474 Salvador . .. 352 Colchagua Valley . 475 Lençóis . 360 COLOMBIA . 540 Pichilemu . 476 Morro de São Paulo . 361 Bogotá . 544 Chillán . 478 Itacaré . 362 Zipaquirá . 554 Concepción . 479 Ilhéus . 363 Suesca . 554 The Lakes District . 481 Porto Seguro . .. 364 Villa de Leyva . 555 Temuco . 481 Arraial d’Ajuda . 365 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy . 558 Trancoso . 366 Conguillío . 484 San Gil . 559 Maceió . 367 Villarrica . .. 485 Barichara . 561 Recife . 368 Pucón . 486 Olinda . 371 Parque Nacional del Parque Nacional Chicamocha . 562 Praia da Pipa . 374 Huerquehue . 489 Bucaramanga . 563 Natal . 375 Valdivia . 490 The Caribbean Coast . 564 Fortaleza . 377 Osorno . 493 Santa Marta . 565 Jericoacoara . 381 Puerto Varas . 494 Taganga . 568 São Luís . 384 Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales . 498 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional dos Natural Tayrona . 570 Lençóis Maranhenses . 386 Puerto Montt . .499 Ciudad Perdida . 572 Belém . 389 Chiloé . 502 La Guajira Peninsula . 573 Algodoal . .. 392 Ancud . 502 Cartagena . 575 Ilha de Marajó . 393 Castro . .. 504 Mompox . 583 Santarém . 394 Dalcahue & Golfo de Urabá . 584 Manaus . 396 Isla Quinchao . 506 ON THE ROAD San Andrés & Reserva de Producción PARAGUAY . 768 Providencia . 587 Faunística Cuyabeno . 687 Asunción . 771 San Andrés . 587 Coca . 688 Circuito Central . 777 Medellín . 588 Parque Nacional Yasuní . 689 San Bernardino . 778 Santa Fe de Antioquia . 595 Tena . 689 Encarnación . 779 Guatapé . 596 Misahuallí . 692 The Jesuit Missions . 783 Manizales . 597 Puyo . 693 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Macas . .. 694 San Rafael . 784 Natural Los Nevados . 599 Pacific Coast & Ciudad del Este . 784 Pereira . 600 Lowlands . 695 Mbaracayú Biosphere Salento . 601 Súa . 696 Reserve . 786 Valle de Cocora . .. 602 Canoa . 696 Concepción . 787 Cali . 603 Bahía de Caráquez . 697 Bahía Negra & the Popayán . 608 Manta . 698 Paraguayan Pantanal . 788 San Agustín . 612 Puerto López . .. 699 The Chaco . 789 Tierradentro . 615 Montañita . 701 The Mennonite Colonies . 789 Amazon Basin . 617 Guayaquil . 703 Northwestern Leticia . 618 Machala . 709 National Parks . 791 Puerto Nariño . 622 Galápagos Islands . 710 Isla Santa Cruz . 714 PERU . 801 ECUADOR . 634 Isla San Cristóbal . 717 Lima . 803 Quito . 638 Isla Isabela . 718 South Coast . 820 Mitad del Mundo Floreana . 719 Pisco . 820 & Around . 660 Ica . 822 Huacachina . 823 Northern Highlands . 661 FRENCH GUIANA . 733 Mindo . 661 Nazca . 824 Cayenne . 736 Otavalo . 663 Tacna . 827 Rémire-Montjoly . 740 Ibarra . 666 Arequipa & Trésor & Kaw Nature Canyon Country . 829 Central Highlands . 667 Reserves . 741 Arequipa . 829 Parque Nacional Kourou . 741 Cotopaxi . .. 667 Cañón del Colca . 835 Îles du Salut . 742 Latacunga . 668 Lake Titicaca . 837 St Laurent du Maroni . 743 The Quilotoa Loop . 669 Juliaca . 837 Mana & Awala-Yalimopo . 746 Baños . 670 Puno . 838 Salinas . 673 Titicaca Islands . 843 Riobamba . 674 GUYANA . 750 Cuzco & the Volcán Chimborazo . 676 Georgetown . 753 Sacred Valley . 844 Southern Highlands . 677 Berbice . 758 Cuzco . 844 Cuenca . 677 Northwest Coast . 759 The Sacred Valley . .. 855 Loja . 684 Kaieteur National Park . 759 Aguas Calientes . 858 Vilcabamba . 685 Iwokrama Rainforest . 760 Machu Picchu . 860 The Oriente . 687 North Rupununi . 761 The Inca Trail . .. 862 Lago Agrio . 687 South Rupununi . 762 Central Highlands . 866 Contents UNDERSTAND Ayacucho . 866 Paysandú . 945 South America North Coast . 869 Salto . 946 Today . 1034 Trujillo . .869 Tacuarembó & Around . 947 History . 1036 Huanchaco . 873 Piriápolis . 948 South American Chiclayo . 874 Punta del Este . 949 People & Culture . 1042 Piura . 876 Cabo Polonio . .. 953 Máncora . 877 Punta del Diablo . 954 Huaraz & the Parque Nacional Cordilleras . 879 Santa Teresa . 955 Huaraz . 880 SURVIVAL Parque Nacional VENEZUELA . 962 GUIDE Huascarán . 885 Caracas . 967 Northern Highlands . 886 Parque Nacional Directory A–Z . 1048 El Ávila . 982 Cajamarca . 886 Transportation . 1057 Chachapoyas . 889 Archipiélago Los Roques . 982 Health . 1064 Kuélap . 890 Parque Nacional Language . 1069 Tarapoto . .. 890 Henri Pittier . 985 Amazon Basin . 892 Parque Nacional Puerto Maldonado . 892 Morrocoy . 987 Parque Nacional Manu . 894 Coro . 987 Pucallpa . 895 Adícora . 989 Iquitos . 896 The Andes ..
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