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CdT_278_COVER_INGLESE_Acca 08/01/16 12:02 Pagina 1 6 1 0 2 Y R A U N A J CIVI LT ÀDELL ATAVOLA G 8 7 ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA 2 . N IN T ER N ED A I T T IO IO N N A L A L O V 6 A T 1 ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA 0 2 A L A CULTURAL INSTITUTION OF THE REPUBLIC OF ITALY Y R L FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI A E U D N A À J T www.accademia1953.it , L 8 I 7 V 2 I . C N STOAMBMLAER IOO F CONTENTS LIANA TA D I E L A L I A M C E U D C A I C N C A A L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI AND LUIGI BERTETT , DINO BUZZATI TRAVERSO , CESARE CHIODI , GIANNINO CITTERIO , ERNESTO DONÀ DALLE ROSE , MICHELE GUIDO FRANCI , GIANNI MAZZOCCHI BASTONI , ARNOLDO MONDADORI , ATTILIO NAVA , ARTURO ORVIETO , SEVERINO PAGANI , ALDO PASSANTE , GIANLUIGI PONTI , GIÒ PONTI , DINO VILLANI , EDOARDO VISCONTI DI MODRONE , WHIT MASSIMO ALBERINI AND VINCENZO BUONASSISI . FOCUS 7 The rule of doing without CIVI LT ÀDELL ATAVOLA 2 The duty of the Academician (Elisabetta Cocito) ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA to safeguard quality food INTERNATIONAL EDITION (Paolo Petroni) 9 Cuccagna: the mythical Land of Plenty JANUARY 2016 / N. 278 (Helen Costantino Fioratti) CULTURE AND RESEARCH EDITOR IN CHIEF PAOLO PETRONI 3 Bread and water COPY EDITOR (Maria Giuseppina SILVIA DE LORENZO Muzzarelli) LAYOUT SIMONA MONGIU 5 From the wine cellar TRANSLATOR to the table NICOLA LEA FURLAN (Nicola Barbera) THIS ISSUE INCLUDES ARTICLES BY Nicola Barbera, Elisabetta Cocito, Helen Costantino Fioratti, Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Paolo Petroni. OOO PUBLISHER ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA VIA NAPO TORRIANI 31 - 20124 M ILANO TEL . 02 66987018 - F AX 02 66987008 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.accademia1953.it OOO MONTHLY MAGAZINE REG . N. 4049 - 29-5-1956 TRIBUNALE DI MILANO On the cover: Graphic reproduction of a detail from the painting “Still Life” (1910) by Henri Rousseau. From a private collection in Switzerland. Rivista associata all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana PAGE 1 F SOCMUMS ARIO The duty of the Academician to safeguard quality food Each one of us can intervene to orient consumption according to the norms of good taste and correct production, thanks to the great influence of the Academy, which is highly qualified and spread across many countries of the world. BY PAOLO PETRONI President of the Academy ot a day goes by that newspapers do not report elect to buy tuna in olive oil and not in seed oil. Pay atten - dramatic news about frauds in the alimentary tion to the price of extra virgin olive oil when it seems too Nfield, primarily concerning oil and cheese. Many low. Choose your mozzarella by reading the label carefully. tears are shed about the huge quantity of false Italian pro - Avoid salami dusted with flour to simulate natural mold. ducts (Italian sounding) sold overseas. True, there are ma - Favor rice produced in Italy. In a restaurant, do not accept ny problems which have large impacts both of an economic ingredients forbidden by law (sea dates, small birds and nature and that are detrimental to the image of our coun - protected game). This gets a bit complicated in other coun - try’s products. Many agencies exist, or should exist, devoted tries but at times you run into frauds that are so evident to eliminating this negative phenomenon; something inde - that only a fool can ignore them. In sum, the hard truth is ed is accomplished. Very often, however, in an absurd turn, that in many cases our production is definitely insufficient further and greater damage is caused to our products that to satisfy the demand of the global market. It also happens are viewed, particularly in foreign countries, with growing that sometimes the actual national products may not be of suspicion. To be sure, the Italian Academy of Cuisine is not acceptable quality. Beyond clear falsifications, our sly pro - one of the agencies charged with overseeing and elimina - ducers send their worst products overseas in the belief that ting fraud and mischief. On the other hand, we must ackno - those consumers know nothing about quality. We can ac - wledge the fact that we are a great and highly qualified for - complish a lot if we become aware of the strength of the ce, spread around many countries of the world. All Acade - Academy. In a recent newsletter, we brought to light the of - micians, with their families and friends, should get invol - fer of an incredible “Italian” hamburger by McDonald’s in ved, each one for his own part and as much as possible, to the Arab Emirates. The Delegation of Dubai came into play orient consumption according to the norms of good taste with wisdom and tact and the local owners understood the and correct production, based problem and stopped that upon the contents of our Co - promotion. Some time ago, de of Ethics. There are plenty following the suggestion of of examples: let us start with an Academician, a well eggs! Always reject those pro - known restaurant chain re - duced from chicken farming placed preserved milk with (code 3 on the label), buy on - fresh pasteurized milk and a ly those coming from natural supermarket chain took eggs settings, or better still from produced in stock farming off cage free or organic farms. the shelves. Academicians Not only that, but the Acade - must take an active and inte - mician, with the Academy’s gral part in the selection of card in hand, should suggest products, not just for their that the shop owner or super - own consumption and that of market manager offer the lat - family and friends, but also, ter types of eggs whenever within the limits of correct - possible. One should also ness, in dealing with food di - avoid the needless consum - stributors and the restaurant ption of suckling calf; always business. PAGE 2 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH Bread and water A dish that is poor and penitential, made nobler today by famous chefs under the name of “pancotto” (cooked bread). BY MARIA GIUSEPPINA MUZZARELLI “Franco Marenghi” Study Center meal made with bread and wa - After many centuries this type of penance ter had its baptism in the Chri - was revived and the fight against the A stian alimentary culture for consumption of meat and the search dealing with sin. When the penance for delicacies became part of a process became repetitive, a great conquest at toward the shaping of a western men - the end of the 6 th century, any time a tality that instituted different customs sin was committed the sinner could ask for lay and religious people as for men for pardon and reconciliation from the and women. The potent and vigorous priest who would mete out the most layman was carnivorous and big eater. opportune penance commensurate with Both men and women however were the sin committed. Such penance would beholden to a restrictive diet when they involve days, weeks, months or even fell into sin. Bread and water were also years of consuming only bread and looked upon as a basic alimentary regi - water (not continuously). Which leads me, just a shade beyond survival, as us to believe that the Christian religion applied in the prisons of yesteryear. embraced a body of faithful of less than These are elements, however, of not solid virtue, ready to confess their sins just high symbolic significance but also and to pay a price for them, consisting of extraordinary flexibility in the kitchen. of alimentary deprivation: in fact, Several foods present in the culinary though, the sinners ate something dif - cultures and practices of the West and ferent from bread and water. the East are also composed of bread PAGE 3 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH and water. In particular, I would onions, potatoes, broccoletti , celery like to expand on panada - that is rabe, eggs and cacio cheese is of - bread and water - not just to relate fered by a well known chef from it to penance but to the attempt Abruzzo, Niko Romito, in his book that lasted centuries to transform Scarpe in Tavola (Shoes on the Ta - the essential, truly the little avai - ble), where the recipes are asso - lable, into something that was tasty ciated with extravagant shoes as and desirable, and certainly not a part of a solidarity project supported penance at all. It was not a very by the popular shoe producer Stuart easy task, yet it was not impossible. Weitzman. Romito’s recipe for pan - The bread soup, otherwise known cotto contains quite a few ingre - as pancotto or acquacotta , was just dients; this dish holds its own the food prescribed to sick and against other ones created by the convalescent people, to women who tions of pancotto , both Italian and re - chef from Rivisondoli. This elaborate had recently given birth, to toothless gional. In his book on the cuisine of pancotto has become quite fashionable. old men, and to babies who had no Romagna, Graziano Pozzetto mentions In brief, it consists of the separation teeth. It was appropriate during Lent a few of them: the pancotto of the Savio between bread and broth with other (at the end of which the pot where it valley, the one of Fusignano and the elements that are meant to enrich it: was cooked was broken into pieces on soup of Savignano on the Rubicon river. vegetables, sweetbreads and other pro - Holy Saturday as a gesture of liberation), Starting with the Sixties, the years of ducts.

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