62 RESTAURANT Oct20Corr11_*MEDITATION NOV-DEF.qxd 10/2/20 10:32 AM Page 62 Stefano Navarrini illustration FOOD FOR THOUGHT n BY MOTHER MARTHA ccentric and bombastic Italian Italy with 95 out of 100 points. The next chef Gianfranco Vissani was “to AT LAST ROME’S year, since “Casa Vissani” has steep Ethe kitchen born.” His father, prices ranging from 120 euros per per - Mario Vissani, was the owner and son for 4 dishes to 250 euros for the chief chef of a country-style restaurant “IL TUO VISSANI” “ ,” both without in his tiny medieval hometown of bpevaecrcahgeetst,o hec oompepnleetdo three more mod - Civitella del Lago near Orvieto in Umbria, in the very heart erately-priced restaurants, all named “ of Italy. Mario’s customers were local fishermen and in Orvieto, CortinLa’,A alntrdo thVeis issalanni”d Sunday tippers. Gianfranco started working there at age o(“f TChaep Ori.ther Vissani”), 13. Then after graduating from hotel school in 1967, he Last but certainly not least is Vissani’s recent venture, “ worked for six years in the kitchens of the (“Your Vissani” which he opened in RomIe l in Venice, the in CoErtxi -celsior Tuo Visosann Fi”eb ruary 27, 2020 —), just before the virus broke nHao Dte’l Ampezzo, Miramonti Maijne sFtlioc rence, out — with his son Luca, long the restaurant’s and iTnh eN Garpalensd, Hboetfeolr e returning maître d’ and business manager, and also with homeZ iìn T1e9r7e3sa. Calabrian dairy product entrepreneur and luxury That year Gianfranco demonstrated his hotelier Domenico Iozzi. Located on two floors skills in an airless, whitewashed open plus the basement wine cellar (of 400 labels) avail - kitchen adjacent to his father’s premises. I able for tastings and private parties, at was among his first guests; each of his a two-minute walk from Piazza Siat’ns several courses was inspired by a different Pliaknet anloe oo 4th, er restaurant in the worlPd iabzezcaa uNsaev iotn oaf,f ers period of classical music played chronolog - every possible gastronomic desire nonstop from noon ically in the background. The meal was a on. Here Vissani’s aim is to relinquish the limelight, crescendo — each unique dish more bizarre than making instead his strictly Italian ingredients from the one before! small producers and his guests the protagonists. A year later Gianfranco took over his father’s At the entrance is a mural of St. Pantaleon, restaurant and renamed it because born a Greek doctor, here dressed as a chef his parents, his wife EleonCoraas,a a Vnids shaisn i pastry- supposedly with the face of Camillo Ne - chef sister Lucia all collaborated. groni, the inventor of the Negroni cocktail, From then on, his career as a chef, writ - but to me a portrait of Luca. The atmos - er, food critic and television personality took off, and it is phere is homey and the prices accessible. Take-out and home still going full blast. The year 1982 was particularly crucial: delivery offered. Closed Tuesday. The menus include : the magazine voted him Italy’s best chef with (12-14:30 PM): a pasta and dessert (18 20 out of 20 pLo’sEsisbplree spsooi nts — along with Heinz Beck of eur“oVs insosat niniLcliuvde”ing beverage). You can add an “extra” char - in Rome and Annie Féolde of cuterie board of ham, salami and cheese (16 euros) or a La Pergionl aF lorence — a rating Gianfranco kEenpot tfeocra mPoinre- main dish of meat or fish (25 euros). Wine 8 euros a glass. tchhaino r2r0i years. (Presently he dips in at 19/20.) (3-5:30PM): toasts, sandwiches and charcu - His notoriety grew during the 1990s thanks to regular teriMe ebroeanrdas (8-12 euros), sweets (ice cream, cookies and television appearances, and continued into this millennium. pastries, 5-8 euros) with freshly made juices, tea, or coffee. He wrote several popular books: or “Happy Hour (6-8PM): six (Venet - (“Regional LTar atdriatdioizni oin et hree gViiosnsanle i ianO-srtyeldeO briot e-sized snacks) with a surprisec iscecvheentthi , plus a Cneulilsai nceu,”c i1n9a9 d8i) ,V issani cocktail or glass of wine (25 euros). I se1g9re9t9 i di un grande cuoco (“The Secrets From 8:30 PM, (55 euros): plus (o“fG ai aGnfrreaantc Co oVoikss,”an i at Y)o, uGr iHanofmraen,”c 2o0 V0i7s)s,a annid a casa tua a pasta and dessert;V issani Smart (70 euarnotsip):a asnto tipas - (“The Loneliness of First Courses,L”a 2 S0o1l0i)tu. - to, two pastas or a seVciosnsadn diSismha orft yPolusr choice, and dessert. dinHe idse ic uPlrinimariy brilliance was also awarded one Michelin Sunday brunch, free choice from buffet, with star in 1998, another in 1999, and in 2012 the a pIansFtaa, mmilayi,n dish, and dessert served at table (50 euros). (“Red Lobster” guide judged him the besGt acmhebfe rino Children’s menu: 25 euros. Rosso ) m Restaurant entrance with mural. Luca and Gianfranco Vissani with Domenico Iozzi. The three with the Team. Fried vegetables, a typical Roman dish (Alberto Blasetti photos) 62 INSIDE THE VATICAN OCTOBER 2020.