FIRST SEMESTER -XII FASHION STUDIES-2016-17 ANSWER KEY

ONE MARK 1. Clothing is the general term referring to actual object related to the human body. 2. Slash and spread method, pivot method 3. Mail curtain 4. Neck circumference 5. Sir William Perkins

TWO MARKS: 6. Long fabric coat originally worn by the Mughal over the which passed into the society as civilian clothes. 7. Coat strengthened with studs /nails on fabric reinforced with plate worn Rajput 8. Today different kinds of camouflage prints are used by the military across the world. Specific patterns in varying colour combinations like brown ,beige, green, blue, grey blend in the dense vegetation, mountainous regions or deserts 9. Ankle – length ,wrap around skirt tied at the waist with the excess waist band hanging loosely at the back worn by the Sumerians. Linen fabric wrapped around the hips worn by all classes in Egypt. 10. When ostentation and exaggerated dominate other factors, the resultant look may become distinctive but impractical .an example of this is the shoe called ‘poulaine’ worn in medieval times with exaggerated in lengths upto 24”that normal person cannot wear. 11. The collar is an added feature onto the neckline and it frames the face .it is one of the most important details of the garment as it draws maximum attention. 12. The hem of the front and back skirt after closing the darts would also be different .Measure the difference between the two at the hem .Subtract half of the difference from the larger side and add half of the difference to the smaller side to the match the hem lines. 13. In the pivot method ,the dart is pivoted on apex and dart is closed ,the pattern/sloper opens on new desired line ,the pattern itself spreads on the new position a new position ,to create the new design 14. Necklines should be larger enough to fit without pulling or chafing but not so large that it doesn’t lie flat against the body In front and back. The front of the basic necklines should always be lower than that if the back. 15. Pattern Designing is an extensive subject that covers principles of construction and techniques in a wider perspective rather than style details. THREE MARKS 16. Arm armour: bajubandh were worn for protecting the upper arm ,usually with the gauntlets Helmets: it had decorative elements like dome shaped fittings, a plume holder, movable nasal guard and a camail to protect the neck and the back sides. 17. It is mainly of draped and pleated. Basic garment was schenti, male royalty wore haik, Women’s wore sheath like kalasairies, queens were kalasaires Refer pg. no 15 18. They set up several institutes and organizations to energize the textile industry and to encourage the continuance of traditional handicrafted skills of artisans. Revival through recognition of natural cultural roots came from fabric, clothes and accessories designer. 19. Cuirasse: the infantry wore the chest armour called cuirasse made of riveted metal scales re-enforced on the shoulder and chest over the padded tunic. Kalasaires: Egyptian unisex sheath like tunic. 20. A general sizing system for clothing protection for a region or a country is based ideally on the body measurements taken on a cross section of the population. 21. Tools: 1. Grading Scale: to mark lines 2. Awl: make holes in paper 3. Notcher: to mark a paper 22. Test fit is done on the muslin at the time when the pattern is made. The second is after the garment has been stitched before the final finishing. 23. Finishing of Neckline: piping is a bias strip of fabric 1 ¼” wide and is attached on the neck line after stretching. The piping is finished either by hemming or machine stitch. Facing are two kinds- Bias facing & Sharped facing. Bias facing is a similar of strip of fabric like piping but is attached to the neckline without stretching. Sharped facing: A sharped facing is cut following the shape of the neckline and is attached on the right side and then is completely turned in. 24. The amy-scye must fit well for the garment to be comfortable and attractive. In a well-fitted arm-scye, the base of the (arm-scye) is cut close to the armpit, but not close that it bites into the armpit. It should be cut about an inch below the armpit. (Ref Page no: 79). 25. For a sleeveless bodice trace the basic bodies block is used, change the armhole as per diagram (for diagram ref page no 88).

FIVE MARKS 26. a) It is central to all forms of traditional battle uniforms and its mention in historical references of different countries. The appearance of amour symbolizes strength, power and impregnability. Techniques of armour construction , lamellar armour, mail armour, , mail and plate armour, leather and fabric armour, armour. Ref page no 20 &21. b) Most of the textile spinning and weaving industry was carried out in people homes in 18th century. A chain of invention changed the situation completely results in unemployment. Eli Whitney invented automatic ginning machine. Joseph Jacquard invented Jacquard loom in 1804. Isaac Singer in 1851 invented first sewing machine. Sir Isaac Newton isolated the principle colours of the spectrum. Johan Tobias Mayor explain the principles of colour mixing. In 1856 Sir William Perkin invented the first synthetic Dye. 27. a) In , evidence of armour of different materials from early period is found  In Vedic period(1500BC)Varman made of metal wires along with the layered head gear  Kushan period soldiers wore mauli, antariya, kachcha and Japanese armour  Gupta kings-shorter antariya with a kayabandh, kanchuka, urastrana.  Rajput kings wore the coat of mail, chilta hazaar masha(coat of thousand nails)  Mughal armour-zirah bakhtar,angarkha,kavach,leather jootis  Indopersian-char-aina meaning of four mirrors. b) To develop pattern in basic bodice for women wear use measurements from the given chart or measure a dress form or a body. Take a paper whose length is centre front length plus 3” and width is half of the bust with plus 4”. Ref page no 83-85 for construction. 28. a) Take one dart basic bodice block. Slash the new dart position, close the old dart trace the pattern on separate sheet. Ref page no 47 for the design manipulation of the dart diagrams. b) To develop pattern for the basic skirt for women wear use measurements from the given chart or measure a dress form or a body. Take a paper whose length is the desired length of the skirt plus 3” and width is half of the hip plus 4”. Ref page no 99 & 100 for the construction.