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Oce1001, Introduction to Oceanography, Fall, 2005

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Oce1001, Introduction to Oceanography, Fall, 2005 OCE1001, INTRODUCTION TO OCEANOGRAPHY, Fall, 2018 THIRD MID-TERM EXAMINATION Test No. 0001 Name: __________________________ READ THIS!!!! Put your name in the blank above. Read all questions carefully, and answer only the question which is asked. You may find the following equations useful: C = (gL/2) = 1.25 L (m/s) Where: C = speed of a wave and: g = gravity = 9.8 m/s2 C = (gD) = 3.1 D (m/s) L = wavelength of a wave C = 1.56 T (m/s) D = water depth C = L/T T = period of a wave PLEASE WRITE NEATLY. Matching: The Beaches Are Moving (8 pts) Do not put these on the scantron sheet. ____ neap ____ hook A. worldwide change in sea level. B. structure intended to widen a beach. ____ jetty ____ groin C. wall intended to keep a channel open. D. two high and two low tides per day. ____ eustatic E. current parallel to the shore caused by waves. ____ semidiurnal F. twice monthly tide that with a smaller than average range. ____ marine terrace G. bend in end of a spit caused by wave refraction. ____ longshore current H. region eroded flat by waves, elevated above sea level. ____ longitudinal I. disturbance of wave is parallel to wave movement Multiple Choice: (2 pts each) Put the answers to these questions on the scantron sheet. 1. In Figure 1, the features labeled 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 are, respectively: a. spit, barrier island, baymouth bar, hook, tombolo. b. hook, spit, baymouth bar, barrier island, tombolo. c. tombolo, spit, baymouth bar, barrier island, hook. d. spit, barrier island, baymouth bar, hook, tombolo. e. hook, barrier island, baymouth bar, tombolo, spit. 2. Your best strategy if you are caught in a RIP CURRENT is to: a. accept inevitable death. b. swim back to shore directly against the current. c. swim parallel with the shore until out of the current, then swim back to shore. d. swim with the current until it reverses and takes you back to shore. e. float with the rip current until it stops, and catch another rip current back to shore. 3. You are scuba diving 20 m deep below the surface of the ocean, while waves with a 2 m height and a 10 m wavelength are moving by on the surface. You feel yourself being: a. moved in a circular motion. b. unaffected by the waves above. c. moved in an elliptical motion, with a vertical long axis. d. moved horizontally only, back and forth. e. moved in an elliptical motion, with a horizontal long axis. 4. The PERIOD of a wave is: a. the number of waves that pass a given point in a given time. b. the distance from the top of a wave to the still water level. c. the time it takes for an identical point on two successive waves to pass a given point. d. the name for the motion of a particle of water in a water wave. e. the depth to which waves can "feel" the ocean bottom. 5. If we follow the motion of water in a shallow water wave, it will move: a. with the wave, as a mound of water moving over the ocean. b. vertically only, up and down as the wave passes by. c. elliptically, with the shape of the ellipses getting taller as the bottom is approached. d. elliptically, with the shape of the ellipses getting flatter as the bottom is approached. e. in circles, with the size of the circles increasing as the bottom is approached. 1 6. Given the conditions that usually lead to large waves, the largest wind waves would most likely be found: a. in the Antarctic Ocean. b. in the Red Sea. c. on the Great Lakes. d. in the equatorial Atlantic Ocean. e. in the North Atlantic Ocean. 7. The most important cause worldwide of waves, in terms of total energy yearly, is: a. none of these. b. meteorites. c. earthquakes. d. tides. e. winds. 8. You jump into the surf, play for a while, and notice when you get out that you have been swept down the beach a considerable distance. You have been affected by: a. a tidal current. b. a rip current. c. a seiche. d. a longshore current. e. constructive wave interference. 9. If waves are approaching a groin from the northeast (Figure 2), then the beach on the west side of the groin will become ___ while the beach on the east side of the groin will become ___. a. narrower, wider b. wider, narrower c. narrower, narrower d. wider, wider e. the waves will have no effect on the width of the beach. 10. Which of these correctly describes an ocean wave? a. longitudinal wave. b. orbital wave. c. transverse wave. d. polarized wave. e. seismic wave. 11. The type of surf that occurs on the very steepest shorelines is a: a. spilling surf. b. whitecap. c. plunging surf. d. curling surf. e. surging surf. 12. Dispersion of waves causes them to: a. break more rapidly as they approach a steep beach. b. bend so that they approach a coastline more parallel than when they were farther out at sea. c. get larger in height as they approach shallow water. d. separate into groups of the same wavelength wave, with the longest waves moving the fastest. e. move more rapidly as they approach shallow water. 13. In order for a surfer to move down the face of a wave as the board moves forward, what must the surfer do? a. cause all forces to add up to zero. b. increase the gravitational force. c. decrease the board’s buoyancy. d. increase friction on the board. e. decrease friction on the board. 14. Surf waves can be predicted through the use of: a. periodic comparisons from one storm to another. b. reports from coastlines to the north and south of the beaches of interest. c. reports from oceangoing ships on the size and speed of waves. d. satellite photos that show the direction and wavelength of waves. e. offshore buoys that measure the period and height of waves. 15. The reason that extremely large waves (50 ft + high) occur on the coast of Hawaii at the location known as "Jaws" is that: a. refraction of waves over a submerged reef increases their size. b. they are funneled up a river mouth. c. the water is very deep in that location. d. the beach is extremely steep at that location. e. they form due to extreme tidal effects. 16. If you are at the beach, which of the following observations is likely to result in a low tide at your location, at the time you make your observation? a. The moon is directly overhead. b. The moon is rising from the eastern horizon. c. The Sun is directly overhead. d. The moon is full. e. The moon is half-full. 17. Which of these tidal types would you expect to see if you were in the Arctic? a. diurnal tide. b. neap tide. c. micro-tide. d. semidiurnal tide. e. spring tide. 2 18. The celestial body with the strongest influence on ocean tides is: a. the Moon. b. Jupiter. c. Mars. d. the Sun. e. In fact, the Sun and Moon have about equal influences. 19. From a practical point of view, the best way to predict tidal amplitudes and timing at a particular point on a coastline is: a. by analyzing a detailed map of depth and configuration of nearby shorelines, coupled with knowledge of the shape of the ocean basin. b. by determining the latitude of the coast compared to the moon. c. by looking at past records of tides. d. by using the predictive qualities of the amphidromic point. e. by determining where the moon and sun are in relation to the coast. 20. We would expect that, through geologic time, tidal friction on the Earth results in all of the below except: a. slowing down of the Earth's rotation. b. an increase in the length of the Earth's day through time. c. a decrease in the number of days in the Earth's year through time. d. increase in length of the Earth’s year. e. none of these are true. 21. In Figure 4, the features labeled 1, 2, 3, and 4 are, respectively: a. sea arch, headland, sea stack, sea cave. b. berm, beach scarp, foreshore, sand bar. c. sea stack, headland, sea cave, sea arch. d. sea stack, sea arch, sea cave, headland. e. baymouth bar, spit, barrier island, tombolo. 22. Which of these factors has the potential to affect global sea level rapidly (thousands of years) by up to 100-200 meters? a. tectonic uplift or subsidence of coastlines. b. changes in global erosion rates. c. changes in oceanic temperatures. d. changes in glaciation. e. changes in the rate of seafloor spreading. 23. The coastline shown in Figure 5 (a series of marine terraces) would be classified as: a. depositional. b. emergent. c. erosional. d. artificial. e. submergent. 24. Most sediment arrives at coastlines through what means? a. rivers. b. wind. c. landslides from cliff faces. d. glaciers. e. waves. 25. Fjords are: a. smaller than normal low tides. b. submerged river valleys due to sea level rise. c. uplifted wave cut terraces in an emergent coastline. d. deep glacially carved valleys cutting into the continental shelf. e. evidence of a depositional coastline. 26. Chesapeake Bay (Figure 3) is: a. a former river valley that was flooded by a rise in sea level.
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