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THE HILL COUNTRY © Lonelyplanetpublications the Hill Country Country Hill the 160 and Climbs,Refreshing Andhistoricsites

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THE HILL COUNTRY © Lonelyplanetpublications the Hill Country Country Hill the 160 and Climbs,Refreshing Andhistoricsites © Lonely Planet Publications 160 www.lonelyplanet.com THE HILL COUNTRY •• Colombo to Kandy 161 0 20 km THE HILL COUNTRY 0 12 miles Elkaduwa A10 Knuckles Range A6 Pinnewala A9 (1863m) To Batticoloa The Hill Country Elephant Wattegama (100km) Orphanage Rambukkana Madugoda Mahiyangana A19 Kandy Hunasgiriya Utuwankandu A26 A6 Victoria- Victoria Randenigala Kegalle Sanctuary A1 Kadugannawa Uduwela Reservoir Mawanella ὈὈRandenigala Reservoir The Hill Country lives in a cool, perpetual spring, away from the often enervating heat Cadjugama Bible Rock Galaha (798m) A5 Pasyala Ganga and heavy air of the coastal regions or the hot dry air of the central and northern plains. Henerathgoda Pasgama Botanic Gardens Tourism Everything here is green and lush, and much of the region is carpeted with the glowing Village A21 Pussellawa A1 Ramboda Kothmale Gampaha green of the tea plantations, with montane forest hugging the higher slopes. Gampola MahaweliReservoir Pidurutalagala To (Mt Pedro) Dunhinda Monaragala; Ramboda (2524m) Ragalla Falls Arugam Bay; Kitulgala FallsὈὈ Gal Oya Although Sinhalese culture was born in the north of Sri Lanka, following the decline of A7 Ganga A7 Badulla National To Colombo Park (15km) iya Nuwara Eliya A5 the Polonnaruwa dynasties in the early 13th century, power shifted southwest to Kotte (near lan Nanu Oya Badulu Oya Avissawella Uma Oya Ke Hakgala Norton Bridge Colombo) and to the Hill Country. The kingdom of Kandy resisted European takeover for more A5 Hanwella Castlereigh Hatton Welimada To Colombo Reservoir than 300 years after the coastal regions first succumbed to the Portuguese in the 17th century, (15km) A4 Dickoya Totapola Ella Maussakelle A16 Maskeliya (2361m) Reservoir Bandarawela and the city of Kandy remains the Sinhalese cultural and spiritual centre. A4 Carney Horton Plains Ohiya Dalhousie National Park Estate World's End A23 ὈὈAdam’s Peak Ὀ (Sri Pada) Peak Wilderness Kirigalpotta Haputale Since the 19th century the region has become home to a large number of Tamils, brought Sanctuary Kiriella (2243m) (2387m) Bambarakanda Wellawaya A8 Gilimale Falls Diyaluma Falls A4 from India by the British to labour on the tea estates. The Tamil culture in the Hill Country Kalu Ganga Horana Belihul Oya Buduruwagala Ratnapura is very different from that found in northern Sri Lanka; the Hinduism practiced here is not Handapangala Tank Pelmadulla Balangoda as strict and there is much less support for the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE). Ganga A4 Kuda Weli Oya A2 The Hill Country is a relaxed area where it’s very easy to find the days just drifting by. ὈὈA18 ὈὈ Kalutara Uda Walawe Madampe National Park Higher up into the hills are many towns that are worth a visit, and an abundance of walks Kalawana and climbs, refreshing waterfalls and historic sites. Beruwela Weddagala Rakwana Morgala Kudawa Bentota Tanamalwila Bentota Sinharaja Hinipitigala HIGHLIGHTS Induruwa Forest Reserve (1171m) Ganga Mederapitiya A18 A17 Embilipitiya ὈὈὈὈWalawe Ganga Deniyaya Watching the throbbing throng of Ahungala elephants, drummers and dancers at the Kotapola THE HILLCOUNTRY Kiruwananaganga Kandy Esala Perahera ( p167 ) Falls To Hambantota O C E A N To Akuressa (20km); Kandy I N D I A N Meandering around Kandy Lake ( p165 ) in Galle (55km) (45km) the evening Slogging up Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada; p194 ) COLOMBO TO KANDY showcasing craftspeople, dancers and other to be rewarded by a perfect sunrise The Henerathgoda Botanic Gardens (%033-222 features of traditional village life. Some Rattling through the high tea plantations in a 2316) near Gampaha, off the Colombo–Kandy enjoy this place while others see it as corny Horton Plains THE HILL COUNTRY Hill Country train; the trip between Haputale Ella road about 30km northwest of Colombo, commercialism – few are delighted by the National Park was where the first rubber trees planted in entry fee. There’s a shop selling handicrafts. and Ella ( p216 ) is particularly lovely Adam's Peak Haputale Asia were carefully grown and their poten- Hire a three-wheeler from Pasyala to get to Hiking through the countryside around Ella Ratnapura tial was proved – some of those original the tourism village; it should cost Rs 150 ( p217 ) while enjoying the views to the plains rubber trees are still in the 37-acre gardens each way. Exploring the pristine Sinharaja Forest today, along with around 400 other plant About 3km further towards Kandy from Reserve ( p221 ) with an expert guide varieties. It’s worth a stop if you have the Pasyala is Cadjugama, a village famous for its Digging up the perfect gem in one of Sinharaja time and an interest in botany. cashew nuts. Stalls line the road, and brightly Forest Ratnapura’s gem shops ( p224 ) Reserve Some 47km from Colombo is the village clad cashew-nut sellers beckon passing mo- of Pasyala, where there’s a turn-off leading torists. At the 48km post is Radawaduwa , Rising early to walk through Horton Plains to the Pasgama tourism village (%033-228 5183; where all sorts of cane items are woven and National Park ( p205 ) and peer over admission US$10), about 1.5km from the main displayed for sale at roadside stalls. stunning World’s End road. This privately owned venture is an at- Kegalle, located 77km from Colombo, is tempt to bring to life a pre-1940 settlement the nearest town to the Pinnewala Elephant The Hill Country 162 THE HILL COUNTRY •• Kandy www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com THE HILL COUNTRY •• Kandy 163 Orphanage ( below ). A little further on you den’s shop for a high-pressure sales pitch. If The town centre, close to Kandy’s pictur- Mark Bookshop (151/1 Dalada Vidiya) Has a good can see Utuwankandu, a prominent rocky you’re interested in buying Sri Lankan spices esque lake set in a bowl of hills, is a delightful selection of books about Sri Lanka, as well as fiction and hill from which the 19th-century Robin you’d be much better off shopping in local jumble of old shops, antique and gemstone nonfiction. It’s poky but the staff are very helpful. Hood–style highwayman, Saradiel, preyed markets. specialists, a bustling market and a very good Vijitha Yapa (5 Kotugodelle Vidiya) Good bookshop on travellers until he was caught and exe- The orphanage is on a good road a few selection of hotels, guesthouses and restau- selling periodicals, newspapers (including foreign papers) cuted by the British. kilometres north of the Colombo–Kandy rants. As night falls the city becomes eerily and assorted fiction and nonfiction. At Kadugannawa, just after the road and road. The turn-off is just out of Kegalle on quiet. railway make their most scenic climbs – with the Kandy side. From Kandy you can take Kandy is particularly well known for the CULTURAL CENTRES views southwest to the large Bible Rock – is a private bus or Central Transport Board great Kandy Esala Perahera ( p167 ), held Alliance Française (%222 4432; [email protected]; a tall pillar erected in memory of Captain (CTB) bus 662 to Kegalle – get off before over 10 days leading up to the Nikini poya 642 Peradeniya Rd; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) To the Dawson, the English engineer who built the Kegalle at Karandupona junction. From the (full moon) at the end of the month of Esala southwest of town, the Alliance hosts film nights (though in Colombo–Kandy road in 1826. junction catch bus 681 going from Kegalle (July/August), but has enough attractions French, the films often have English subtitles), and has books Pasyala, Cadjugama, Kegalle and Kadu- to Rambukkana and get off at Pinnewala. to justify a visit at any time of year. and periodicals. Good coffee is available. Nonmembers are gannawa are on the A1 and are all acces- It’s about an hour from Kandy to the junc- Locally, Kandy is known as either Maha welcome to browse in the library. sible by buses travelling between Colombo tion, and 10 minutes from the junction to Nuwara (Great City) or just Nuwara (City), British Council (%223 4634; enquiries.kdy@british and Kandy. The train is useful for getting Pinnewala. There are also numerous buses which is what some conductors on Kandy- council.org; 178 DS Senanayake Vidiya; h9.30am-5pm to the Henerathgoda Botanic Gardens at between Colombo and Kegalle. bound buses call out. Tue-Sat) The council has back copies of British newspapers, Gampaha, and Kadugannawa. Rambukkana station on the Colombo– CDs, videos and DVDs. Although English instruction is the Kandy railway is about 3km north of the Orientation main activity, the council sometimes holds film nights, Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage orphanage. From Rambukkana get a bus The focus of Kandy is its lake, with the Tem- exhibitions and plays. Nonmembers may read newspapers This government-run orphanage (adult/child going towards Kegalle. Trains leave Kandy ple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada on presentation of a passport. under 12 Rs 500/250, video camera Rs 500; h8.30am- at 6.45am (arriving at Rambukkana station Maligawa) on its north side. The city cen- 5.30pm), near Kegalle, was created to protect at 8.21am), 10.30am (arriving at 12.13pm) tre is immediately north and west of the INTERNET ACCESS abandoned or orphaned elephants. It has and 2.15pm (arriving at 3.43pm). Trains for lake, with the clock tower a handy reference There are five or six Internet cafés in the now grown into the most popular jumbo Kandy leave from Rambukkana at 1.55pm point. The train station, the market and the town centre; the going rate last we checked attraction in Sri Lanka, and with good rea- and 2.25pm. various bus stations and stops are just a was Rs 60 per hour (except at Koffeepot, son, for nowhere else except at peraheras There is also a train from Colombo Fort short walk from the lake.
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