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Sri Lanka The Enchanted Isle A Greentours Trip Report 18th February to 8th March 2013 Led by Paul Cardy Trip Report and Systematic Lists written by Paul Cardy Day 0/1 Monday February 18th, Tuesday February 19th Journey to Sri Lanka, and to Kandy Both flights arrived on schedule, and Mr Silva was at the airport early in the morning to meet first the group arriving from London, and shortly afterwards me coming from Italy via Abu Dhabi. Once aboard the spacious bus we drove through reasonably quiet streets in the dark although there was already quite a bit of traffic on the road. Once light, very common birds began with House and Jungle Crows; a selection of egrets; Red-vented Bulbul; White-throated Kingfisher; and Rose-ringed Parakeets. We also drove past a very large Flying Fox roost. After about two and a half hours we reached a bustling Kandy, and our hotel, The Suisse. Around the lake were Indian Cormorants, Spot-billed Pelican, Little and Great Egrets, and Black-crowned Night Herons. The staff at the hotel gave a warm welcome and it was impressive that they let us check in so early in the day, although there was a slight wait for some of the rooms. While we waited an excellent buffet breakfast was enjoyed. A Common Evening Brown perched on the walls of the hotel. Then it was time for sleep, and most of us managed a few hours, with lunch optional, and delicious for those who attended. We met up at 3.30 for an afternoon excursion. In three- wheelers we motored around the lake to the small Greenwoods Guesthouse, the roof of which overlooks the good forest of the Udawattakelle Sanctuary. It was raining as we arrived and unfortunately there were several showers during our stay today. We managed to see a good selection of common birds however. Things started well with Yellow-fronted Barbet, Brown- headed Barbet, Orange Minivets, Purple-rumped Sunbird, Oriental White-eyes, Spotted Dove, and Hill Mynas all seen well. Sri Lanka Hanging Parrots regularly flew over, calling, which would be how we would most often see them during the tour! A troop of mischievous Toque Macques moved across the rooftops and came extremely close to us, and Three-striped Palm Squirrels ran along the wires. The beautiful butterfly Metallic Caerulean was on the wing and a male Great Eggfly perched. The birds continued with the endemic Layard’s Parakeet; the widespread Oriental Magpie Robin; and a pair of impressive Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 1 Black-rumped Flamebacks. Alexandrine and Rose-ringed Parakeets flew over, and Common Iora and Asian Brown Flycatcher were seen. Whilst all this was going on our hosts provided welcome afternoon tea and coconut hoppers. Back at the Suisse we enjoyed a very good buffet dinner, and looked forward to a productive and enjoyable tour. Day 2 Wednesday 20th February Peradineya, Udawattakelle, and Kandy Today the weather was fine with blue skies. After an excellent breakfast, as usual either western or a good curry selection, we set off in the bus for the short drive to Peradineya Botanic Gardens. We spent the morning walking slowly around the gardens, very busy today. Our route managed to avoid the worst of the crowds however, and we saw a wealth of interesting things. Of course there was a fine selection of plants here, both native and non-native, and the gardens are particularly attractive and well laid out. Several orchids were in flower in the Orchid House, but sadly not Sri Lankan species. An avenue of Javan Almonds was particularly fine, with incredible irregular buttress roots. Among the many trees were Nutmeg, Mango, African Tulip Tree, Sausage Tree, Bread Fruit and Jack Fruit, but the most impressive were the Pride of Burma, Amherstia nobilis, many of which were in fine bloom. The Cannonball trees were in both flower and fruit, a good example of cauliflory. Thunbergia fragrans had white trumpets and there was some fine Monstera deliciosa. A feature of the gardens are the beautiful avenues of Royal Palms, Cabbage Palms, and Borassus Palms. The gardens support a rich avifauna, and gave us an introduction to the common birds of Sri Lanka. Yellow-billed Babblers moved around in small groups, White-throated Kingfishers and White-bellied Drongos sallied for insects, and Magpie Robins were conspicuous. Indian Swiftlets and Asian Palm Swifts wheeled over the lawns, with a few Barn Swallows among them. We had good views of nectaring Loten’s and Purple-rumped Sunbirds, and Common Tailorbirds were active in the dense shrubbery. Koels called noisily, and Brown-headed Barbet and Ceylon Small Barbet looked fine in the sunlight. Among the few butterflies were Psyche, White Four-ring, Metallic Caerulean, Common Crow, and both Emigrants. The scarcity of butterflies was puzzling in the hot weather. Three-striped Palm Squirrels were much in evidence and there were various troops of mischievous Toque Macaques. Brown-breasted Flycatcher was seen well under the trees, and Black-hooded Oriole called regularly, and was also seen well. We reached the immense Flying Fox roost, and marvelled at the huge numbers of these impressive bats, quarrelling noisily and never seeming to rest. As usual hundreds were on the wing, despite it being mid-morning. This population has grown every time I visit and the roost now covers a vast area with many trees dripping with bats. After reaching the huge spreading Javan Fig we strolled along an avenue of contorted Cook’s Pines to a pond where we saw a few Odonata, including Dawn Bluetail, Malabar Sprite, Sri Lankan Orange-faced Sprite, Pink Skimmer, Sombre Skimmer, Blue Pursuer, Eastern Scarlet Darter, Black Velvetwing and Tramea limbata. Also in the pond were Indian Pond Terrapins. Nearby the melastomataceous Medinilla magnifica had stunning large distinctly veined leaves. Here too was a strange tree, Napoleona, placed in its own family, showing cauliflory, the flowers being rather Passiflora like. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2 In Kandy a small family run restaurant near the river provided us with a very good rice and curry lunch. There were many dishes of varying hotness, such as banana flower, and jak fruit curries. The ginger beer was very refreshing. In the afternoon we went to the forest of Udawattakelle, a beautiful place, although often quiet, especially in the afternoon. A bonus was almost no other visitors. A colony of the lycaenid Slate Flash flew in a light gap, beautiful in the sunlight. The bird highlight, and one of my main targets here, was two of the endemic Brown-capped Babbler moving quietly on the forest floor, seen better than ever today. Emerald Dove called. At 5.45 p.m. Sunil took the group to the Temple of the Tooth, by all accounts a fascinating experience. Day 3 Thursday 21st February Sorabora and Victoria Radenigala Breakfast was a delicious selection of curries at 6.30, although of course western food was available too. Leaving at 7.15 we drove east from Kandy, making good progress. After some time we were in more rural surroundings, and some fine verdant scenery. This year we travelled the main route, over the Knuckles range, the road now much improved after years of roadworks. The series of switchbacks down onto the eastern lowlands are now via a wide, brand new much more comfortable road than in the past. Through fine vegetation, among the many roadside plants were the ‘handkerchief’ tree Mussaenda frondosa; Stachytarpheta urticifolia; and Crotalaria verrucosa with purple veined white flowers. Toque Macaques were active on the verges. Once in the paddies of the eastern lowlands there were many egrets and paddybirds, and White- throated Kingfishers on the wires. In Mahiyangana we had a ginger beer break at the old rest house where we watched nesting Scaly-breasted Munias. At Sorabora we parked and walked slowly to the reservoir. Butterflies were much in evidence with species such as Crimson Rose, Common Mormon, Common Rose, Dark Wanderer, Chocolate Soldier and Lemon Pansy. One of the first species seen was the lovely Indian Sunbeam, the only one of the tour. Nearing the reservoir we met the first of several large Water Monitors, and a White-breasted Waterhen. At the reservoir itself was a large raft of Little Cormorants, and Brahminy Kites were in the air. Walking slowly along the bank, lined with impressive fig trees, we had superb views of Malabar Pied Hornbills, an early trip highlight. They were attracted by the fruiting figs and we were able to watch them for as long as we wished. Coppersmiths were also rather common in the figs, and Green Imperial Pigeons and Brown-headed Barbets were seen well. Alpine Swifts flew overhead. Some six Giant Squirrels were seen today, always an impressive animal. Crossing a small bridge brought us into excellent habitat, where calling White-browed Bulbuls moved through the scrub. There was a good selection of bugs, beetles, Hymenoptera, Diptera, and other insects seen today. Among the Odonata were Sombre Skimmer and Orange-winged Groundling. Butterflies continued with a selection of danaids, namely Glassy Tiger, Blue Tiger, Dark Blue Tiger, Plain Tiger, Common Tiger, and Common Crow. Bird activity in the lakeside scrub was rather less than usual but we did see Plain Prinias and Purple Sunbird, and Indian Peafowl was calling. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3 We ate our picnics back across the bridge, avoiding the very large school party. I was amazed and touched to see Mr. Silva, who had driven all the way from Kandy to bring me some medicine for my persisitent cough.

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