8. Detail from a cabinet In the 1840s men started wearing their chain, card of a lady, c. 1875, watch and trinkets on the vest. The watch was not wearing bustle gown, The Wearing of Watches visible and was held in the vest pocket. Prince Albert guard chain and watch Further Reading favoured this style, his name being given to the vest held in a watch pocket. BY GENEVIEVE CUMMINS From 'How the Watch was Worn'. See page 155 for more on chain (however called a Dickens chain in the U.S.A.). the author's leading and thorough publication on the subject. atches - introduced c. 1520 - have been the Wmost common fashion accessories for men, In the 18th century men wore elaborate outfits 5. Three colour and an essential part of a woman’s jewellery display. with shorter vests (waistcoats) and cut-away coats. gold watch, maker The watch was now hidden from view and held in a Tobias, with Mac- pocket in the breeches (the fob pocket) with a chain, aroni chatelaine cord or ribbon outside on view holding a key and a draped across the varied collection of trinkets (breloques) including seals body and held by (Plate 3). Women wore their watches on an elaborate two watch hooks, a waist-hung accessory called an equipage (now known Regency style. as a chatelaine) made from base metals, steel to gold, enamels and jewels. The chain was usually anchored to a buttonhole by (Plate 2). This style a bar or a ring. The chain could be single or double 9. Matching blue enamel persisted throughout and held a watch key and other varied trinkets watch and neck chain. the nineteenth centu- 1. Mid 17th cen- (Plate 7). The vest chain persisted as the dominant ry – keyless examples tury lady wearing style for men until it was overtaken 10. Two brooch watches—one of platinum and sapphire being more slender. an enamel watch by the wristwatch at the end of in Art-Deco style, the other a blue enamel ball watch, both and crank key ap- the century. A later style was the have bow-form pins.. 3. Regency shirt, vest parently on a chain broader fob chain. During the and trousers with watch Wristwatches, likely worn by women from draped at the waist. nineteenth century women wore many in fob pocket, ribbon early times (Queen Elizabeth I) and looking Courtesy Centraal styles with the watch often visible. As well with key and seals that like an elaborate bracelet, were hard to prove Museum Utrecht. as the chatelaine, watches were worn on would be visible. neck chains (Plate 9), guard chains, or from portraits as the dial was usually hidden. In the 16th and 17th centuries both men and waistcoat chains with the watch placed Men had not yet worn wristwatches – it was consid- During the Regency period (1795-1830) fashions women wore their watches on view – men from a cord behind the belt or in a pocket or pinned ered bad form and totally effeminate. The practicality were changing to slender clinging clothes for women. or chain around the neck (for example Henry VIII); to a brooch on the bodice (Plate 8). of the wristwatch during war and aviation changed They now wore their watch with the chain draped over women from a neck chain or from the girdle. The The brooch watch (Plate 10) was a style the tide and the wristwatch won the day a waist band, a style called the Macaroni chatelaine key-wound watches could be draped over a ribbon at favoured by nurses. after the late 19th century. The dial (Plate 4). This could also be draped across the body the waist, the chain with watch at one end and a key, was proudly displayed, although (Plate 5). At the end of the Regency period, women 7. Charles Dickens on a as part of the fashion accessory, at the other (Plate 1). occasionally covered for protec- also wore long draped guard chains with the watch at- Carte de Visite c. 1867, tion on some sporting watches, or tached to the waist with a small watch hook (Plate 6). wearing a double Albert when it was considered impolite or Dickens vest chain with for women to look at their watches. The word Chatelaine fob, T-bar to buttonhole. The word ‘chatelaine’ - the Mistress of a Castle Waltham World War I - came into use in 1828-1829 for a waist-hung chain featuring a key – the ladies playing with the Future romantic notion of being the chatelaine of their F. P. Journe Much thought and ingenuity own chateau. now goes into the design of the wristwatch to tempt or satisfy the needs of the pub- 4. Regency gold silk lic – concentrating on status, gown with gold, blue cost and social statement. enamel, pearl and The wristwatch is now chal- 6. Late Regency gown lenged by smart phones. diamond watch, adorned with a matching maker Shrapnell, 2. Gown, c. 1775, of Spitalfield silk with the addi- suite of long guard chain, iPhone tion of a gilt-metal watch chatelaine (with crank key with compatible watch hook, watch, OCTA Macaroni chatelaine and small box for comfits) along with a gilt metal buckle and brooch. Suite One wonders what the future draped over a cord at equipage for personal items. Courtesy Cavalcade of courtesy Martin & Stein of the personal time piece will be. Fashion. the waist. Antiques.

8 the horological foundation www.antique-horology.org 9 www.antique-horology.org/_editorial/the-wearing-of-pocket-watches.pdf