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Villa Borghese and Northern Rome PDF Rome Villa Borghese & Northern Rome (PDF Chapter) COVERAGE INCLUDES: Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 21 • Neighbourhood Top • Sleeping Page Range 181–192, 214–222 Five • Local Life Useful Links • Getting There & Want more guides? Away Head to our shop • Sights Trouble with your PDF? • Eating Trouble shoot here • Drinking & Nightlife Need more help? • Entertainment Head to our FAQs • Shopping Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 181 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome VILLA BORGHESE | FLAMINIO | SALARIO | NOMENTANO | PARIOLI Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Getting to grips with 2 Strolling the leafy lanes 4 Going face to face with artistic genius at the lavish of Rome’s most famous park, the greats of modern art Museo e Galleria Borghese Villa Borghese (p186). at the Galleria Nazionale (p183), where Bernini’s 3 Applauding the sophisti- d’Arte Moderna e Contem- sculptures steal the show, cation of Etruscan art at the poranea (p187). but you’ll also find master- Museo Nazionale Etrusco 5 Catching a world-class pieces by Canova, Caravag- di Villa Giulia (p186). concert at the Auditor ium gio, Titian and Raphael. Parco della Musica (p191). w V Co w F i a ra V rs i C a uc d o e a l F s ia di o s ro i 000 a Ita 000 orna lic 000 Cad o 000 llo a T e 000 ia i 01km c h 000 s be e r c e# r 00.5 miles a R s Ponte Ponte i o M v 00 t Flaminio er la M 00g Milvio el 00L d 00 le Via TRIESTE Villa Ada Vi 5# niVi al ido Re a Flami e ia a Gu r Vi Tizi la V a i an a S Via ni G le ia o P a FLAMINIO A a V n r to PARIOLI io 00 L L n li 00 g g el Villa 00 t t li 00 d ell F Grazioli V 00 a B Vi l le r V V ia 00 t a uno B i i to ia uozz i al C r m V a e hi ia L an G i i e a n g P i i ova o r n ld di a A i i se s V i i in V # is e a zz V 3# 4 l iale l l i U l e na a o 000 000 Be de a V R ta le Ma i Co 00ia0 00F 0 ll lle V e 00V0 000 e i g Tr en a T l Ar 000 00a 0 i r m t n i i so m i S e 000 b 000 a No a s 000 a e i M te n ia r n Villa 1# l a V a a e R i i i r a r liz a Borghese i g i P i i c M a o h Villa le v a VILLA v el n Sa e d e i le s 0000 ia r Torlonia a r V i Vi s 0000 BORGHESE2# P t 0000 a a d i SALARIO 0000000 Mu Vi i 0000000 a V Co NOMENTANO R Piazza le rso d'I 000 ro tal i 000 d ia p 00de0l T el el o e o e d nz t Popolo rt ial Rie t o V ico la di a liclin Via Co Po 00 For more detail of this area see Map p324 A 182 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Explore Villa Borghese Be sure to book your & Northern Rome visit to the Museo e Galleria Although less packed with traditional sights than else- Borghese. It only takes a where, this large swathe of northern Rome is rich in in- quick phone call and you terest. The obvious starting point is Villa Borghese, an won’t get in without a attractive park counting the city’s zoo, its largest mod- reservation. ern art gallery, and a stunning Etruscan museum among On football and rugby its myriad attractions. But its great scene-stealing high- match days – usually a light is the Museo e Galleria Borghese, one of Rome’s top Saturday or Sunday – the art museums. routes into the Stadio Ol­ From Piazzale Flaminio, a tram heads up Via Flamin- impico get very busy, so ia to two of Rome’s most important modern buildings: watch out around Piazza Renzo Piano’s arts centre, the Auditorium Parco della Mancini and in the river area Musica, and Zaha Hadid’s contemporary art gallery, near the stadium. MAXXI. Continue up the road and you come to Ponte VILLA BORGHESE & & BORGHESE VILLA Milvio, a handsome footbridge and scene of an ancient Roman battle. Over the river and to the west, the Stadio Olimpico is Rome’s impressive football stadium. 5 Best Places to Eat To the east of Villa Borghese, Via Salaria, the old Ro- man sale (salt) road, runs through a smart residential ¨ Metamorfosi (p191) and business district. To the north, Villa Ada expands ¨ Neve di Latte (p190) northwards while, to the south, Via Nomentana trav- ¨ Molto (p191) erses acres of housing as it heads out of town. On Via ¨ Bar Pompi (p190) Nomentana, Villa Torlonia is a captivating park, and the NORTHER For reviews, see p190.A Basilica di Sant’Agnese fuori le Mura claims Rome’s old- est Christian mosaic. Best Places N 6 Local Life R to Drink OME ¨Concerts & Events Romans are avid supporters of ¨ Momart (p191) concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (p191). ¨ Brancaleone (p191) Also check for events at the MAXXI and MACRO art ¨ Lanificio 159 (p191) galleries. ¨ Chioschetto di Ponte ¨Parks Tourists tend to stop at Villa Borghese (p186), Milvio (p191) but locals often head to Villa Torlonia (p189) and Villa For reviews, see p191.A Ada (p188). ¨Hang-outs Piazzale Ponte Milvio is a favourite lunchtime haunt and an evening meeting point for young locals. 1 Best Museums & Galleries ¨ Museo e Galleria Borghese (p183) Getting There & Away ¨ Museo Nazionale Etrusco ¨Bus Buses 116 and 53 head up to Villa Borghese from di Villa Giulia (p186) Via Vittorio Veneto near Barberini metro station. There ¨ Galleria Nazionale d’Arte are regular buses along Via Nomentana and Via Salaria. Moderna e Contemporanea ¨Metro Villa Borghese is accessible from Flaminio and (p187) Spagna stations (both line A). ¨ MAXXI (p187) ¨Tram Tram 2 trundles up Via Flaminia from Piazzale ¨ MACRO (p188) Flaminio; tram 3 connects Villa Borghese with San Lorenzo, San Giovanni and Testaccio; tram 19 runs For reviews, see p186.A from Piazza del Risorgimento (near the Vatican) to Villa Borghese and Viale Regina Margherita. MUSEO E GALLERIA BORGHESE DEA / G. DAGLI ORTI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / ORTI DAGLI G. / DEA If you have time, or inclination, for only one art gallery DON’T MISS in Rome, make it this one. Housing what’s often referred to as the ‘queen of all private art collections’, ¨ Ratto di Proserpina it boasts some of the city’s finest art treasures, ¨ Venere Vincitrice including a series of sensational sculptures by Gian ¨ Ragazzo col Can- Lorenzo Bernini and important paintings by the likes of estro di Frutta Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael and Rubens. ¨ La Deposizione di To limit crowds, visitors are admitted at two-hourly inter- Cristo vals, so you’ll need to book your ticket and get an entry time. ¨ Amor Sacro e Amor Profano The Villa The museum’s collection was formed by Cardinal Scipione Borghese (1579–1633), the most knowledgable and ruthless PRACTICALITIES art collector of his day. It was originally housed in the car- ¨ Map p324, F6 dinal’s residence near St Peter’s but in the 1620s he had it transferred to his new villa just outside Porta Pinciana. And ¨ %06 3 28 10 it’s here, in the villa’s central building, the Casino Borghese, ¨ www.galleria­ that you’ll see it today. borghese.it Over the centuries the villa has undergone several ¨ Piazzale del Museo overhauls, most notably in the late 1700s when Prince Borghese 5 Marcantonio Borghese added much of the lavish neoclassical ¨ adult/reduced decor (including the Mariano Rossi fresco pictured above). €11/6.50 But while the villa remained intact, the collection did not. ¨ h9am­7pm Tue­Sun Much of the antique statuary was carted off to the Louvre in ¨ gVia Pinciana the early 19th century, and other pieces were gradually sold off. In 1902 the Italian State bought the Casino, but it wasn’t until 1997 that the collection was finally put on public display. The villa is divided into two parts: the ground-floor museum, with its superb sculp- tures, intricate Roman floor mosaics and hypnotic trompe l’oeil frescoes; and the upstairs picture gallery. 184 CARDINAL Ground Floor SCIPIONE The entrance hall features 4th-century floor mosa- BORGHESE ics of fighting gladiators and a 2nd-century Satiro Combattente (Fighting Satyr). High on the wall is a Cardinal Scipione gravity- defying bas-relief of a horse and rider falling Caffarelli Borghese into the void by Pietro Bernini (Gian Lorenzo’s father).
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