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Villa Borghese & Northern Rome (PDF Chapter) COVERAGE INCLUDES: Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 21 • Neighbourhood Top • Sleeping Page Range 181–192, 214–222 Five • Local Life Useful Links • Getting There & Want more guides? Away Head to our shop • Sights Trouble with your PDF? • Eating Trouble shoot here • Drinking & Nightlife Need more help? • Entertainment Head to our FAQs • Shopping Stay in touch Contact us here

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 181

Villa Borghese & ­Northern Rome VILLA BORGHESE | | | |

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Getting to grips with 2 Strolling the leafy lanes 4 Going face to face with artistic genius at the lavish of Rome’s most famous park, the greats of modern art Museo e Villa Borghese (p186). at the Galleria Nazionale (p183), where Bernini’s 3 Applauding the sophisti- d’Arte Moderna e Contem- steal the show, cation of at the poranea (p187). but you’ll also find master- Museo Nazionale Etrusco 5 Catching a world-class pieces by Canova, Caravag- di (p186). concert at the Auditor­ium

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000 000 Be de a V R ta le Ma i Co 00ia0 00F 0 ll lle V e 00V0 000 e i g Tr en a T l Ar 000 00a 0 i r m t n i i so m i S e 000 b 000 a No a s 000 a e i M te n ia r n Villa 1# l a V a a e R i i i r a r liz a Borghese i g i P i i c M a o h Villa le v a VILLA v el n Sa e d e i le s 0000 ia r a r V i Vi s 0000 BORGHESE2# P t 0000 a a d i SALARIO 0000000 Mu Vi i 0000000 a V Co NOMENTANO R Piazza le rso d'I 000 ro tal i 000 d ia p 00de0l T el el o e o e d nz t Popolo rt ial Rie t o V ico la di a liclin Via Co Po 00 For more detail of this area see Map p324 A 182 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Explore Villa Borghese Be sure to book your & Northern Rome visit to the Museo e Galleria Although less packed with traditional sights than else- Borghese. It only takes a where, this large swathe of northern Rome is rich in in- quick phone call and you terest. The obvious starting point is Villa Borghese, an won’t get in without a attractive park counting the city’s zoo, its largest mod- reservation. ern art gallery, and a stunning Etruscan among On football and rugby its myriad attractions. But its great scene-stealing high- match days – usually a light is the Museo e Galleria Borghese, one of Rome’s top Saturday or Sunday – the art . routes into the Stadio Ol­ From Piazzale Flaminio, a tram heads up Via Flamin- impico get very busy, so ia to two of Rome’s most important modern buildings: watch out around Piazza Renzo Piano’s arts centre, the Auditorium Parco della Mancini and in the river area Musica, and ’s contemporary art gallery, near the stadium. MAXXI. Continue up the road and you come to Ponte

Villa Borghese & ­ Milvio, a handsome footbridge and scene of an ancient Roman battle. Over the river and to the west, the Stadio 5 Best Places Olimpico is Rome’s impressive football stadium. to Eat To the east of Villa Borghese, , the old Ro- man sale (salt) road, runs through a smart residential ¨¨Metamorfosi (p191) and business district. To the north, Villa Ada expands ¨ ¨Neve di Latte (p190) northwards while, to the south, trav- ¨¨Molto (p191) erses acres of housing as it heads out of town. On Via ¨¨Bar Pompi (p190) Nomentana, is a captivating park, and the Norther For reviews, see p190.A di Sant’Agnese fuori le Mura claims Rome’s old- est Christian .

Best Places n 6 R to Drink Local Life

ome ¨Concerts & Events Romans are avid supporters of ¨¨Momart (p191) concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (p191). ¨¨ Brancaleone (p191)

Also check for events at the MAXXI and MACRO art  ¨¨Lanificio 159 (p191) galleries. ¨¨Chioschetto di Ponte ¨Parks Tourists tend to stop at Villa Borghese (p186), Milvio (p191) but locals often head to Villa Torlonia (p189) and Villa For reviews, see p191.A Ada (p188). ¨Hang-outs Piazzale is a favourite lunchtime haunt and an evening meeting point for 1 Best Museums young locals. & Galleries ¨¨Museo e Galleria Borghese (p183) Getting There & Away ¨¨Museo Nazionale Etrusco ¨Bus Buses 116 and 53 head up to Villa Borghese from di Villa Giulia (p186) Via Vittorio Veneto near Barberini metro station. There ¨¨Galleria Nazionale d’Arte are regular buses along Via Nomentana and Via Salaria. Moderna e Contemporanea ¨Metro Villa Borghese is accessible from Flaminio and (p187) Spagna stations (both line A). ¨¨MAXXI (p187) ¨Tram Tram 2 trundles up from Piazzale ¨¨MACRO (p188) Flaminio; tram 3 connects Villa Borghese with San Lorenzo, San Giovanni and Testaccio; tram 19 runs For reviews, see p186.A from Piazza del Risorgimento (near the Vatican) to Villa Borghese and Viale Regina Margherita. MUSEO E GALLERIA BORGHESE DEA / G. DAGLI ORTI / GETTY IMAGES © If you have time, or inclination, for only one art gallery DON’T MISS in Rome, make it this one. Housing what’s often referred to as the ‘queen of all private art collections’, ¨¨Ratto di Proserpina it boasts some of the city’s finest art treasures, ¨¨Venere Vincitrice including a series of sensational sculptures by Gian ¨¨Ragazzo col Can- Lorenzo Bernini and important by the likes of estro di Frutta , Titian, Raphael and Rubens. ¨¨La Deposizione di To limit crowds, visitors are admitted at two-hourly inter- Cristo vals, so you’ll need to book your ticket and get an entry time. ¨¨Amor Sacro e Amor Profano The Villa The museum’s collection was formed by Cardinal (1579–1633), the most knowledgable and ruthless PRACTICALITIES art collector of his . It was originally housed in the car- ¨¨Map p324, F6 dinal’s residence near St Peter’s but in the 1620s he had it transferred to his new villa just outside . And ¨¨%06 3 28 10 it’s here, in the villa’s central building, the Casino Borghese, ¨¨www.galleria­ that you’ll see it today. borghese.it Over the centuries the villa has undergone several ¨¨Piazzale del Museo ­overhauls, most notably in the late 1700s when Prince Borghese 5 ­Marcantonio Borghese added much of the lavish ­neoclassical ¨¨adult/reduced decor (including the Mariano Rossi pictured above). €11/6.50 But while the villa remained intact, the collection did not. ¨¨h9am-7pm Tue-Sun Much of the antique statuary was carted off to the in ¨¨gVia Pinciana the early 19th century, and other pieces were gradually sold off. In 1902 the Italian State bought the Casino, but it wasn’t until 1997 that the collection was finally put on public display. The villa is divided into two parts: the ground-floor museum, with its superb sculp- tures, intricate Roman floor and hypnotic trompe l’oeil frescoes; and the upstairs picture gallery. 184

CARDINAL Ground Floor SCIPIONE The entrance hall features 4th-century floor mosa- BORGHESE ics of fighting and a 2nd-century Satiro Combattente (Fighting Satyr). High on the wall is a Cardinal Scipione gravity-­defying bas-relief of a horse and rider falling Caffarelli Borghese into the void by Pietro Bernini (Gian Lorenzo’s father). (1576–1633) was one of Sala I is centred on ’s daring the most influential fig­ depiction of Napoleon’s sister, Paolina Bonaparte ures in Rome’s Borghese, reclining topless as Venere Vincitrice (Ve- art world. Blessed with nus Victrix; 1805–08). Its suggestive pose and tech- wealth, power and posi­ nical virtuosity is typical of Canova’s elegant, mildly tion – his uncle Pope erotic neoclassical style. Paul V made him a car­ But it’s ’s sculptures – flam- dinal when he was just boyant depictions of pagan myths – that really steal 26 – he sponsored the the show. Just look at ’s hands morphing into

Villa Borghese & ­ greatest artists of the leaves in the swirling e Dafne (1622–25) in day, including Caravag­ Sala III, or Pluto’s hand pressing into the seemingly gio, Bernini, Domenichi­ soft flesh of Persephone’s thigh in the Ratto di Pros- no, and Peter erpina (Rape of Proserpina; 1621–22) in Sala IV. Paul Rubens. Yet while Caravaggio, one of Cardinal Scipione’s favourite he promoted the artists artists, dominates Sala VIII. You’ll see a dissipated he didn’t always see eye Bacchino malato (Young Sick ; 1593–94), to eye with them and the strangely beautiful La Madonna dei Palafrenie- he was quite prepared ri (Madonna of the Palafrenieri; 1605–06), and San Norther to play dirty to get his Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist; 1609–10), hands on their works: probably his last work. There’s also the much-loved he had the fashion­ Ragazzo col Canestro di Frutta (Boy with a Basket of Fruit; 1593–95) and dramatic Davide con la Testa able painter Cavaliere di Golia ( with the Head of Goliath; 1609–10) – n d’Arpino flung into jail in R Goliath’s head is said to be a self-portrait. order to confiscate his ome canvases and had Do­ menichino arrested to Picture Gallery

Museo e Galleria Bor e Galleria Museo With works representing the best of the Tuscan, force him to surrender Venetian, Umbrian and northern European schools, La Caccia di Diana (The the upstairs picture gallery offers a wonderful snap- Hunt of Diana). shot of art. In Sala IX don’t miss Raphael’s extraordinary La Deposizione di Cristo (; 1507) and his For a restorative charming Dama con Liocorno (Lady with a Unicorn; ­coffee, there’s a cafe 1506). In the same room you’ll find Fra Bartolomeo’s next to the bookshop superb Adorazione del Bambino (Adoration of the in the basement Christ Child; 1499) and Perugino’s Madonna col ­reception hall. Bambino (Madonna and Child; early 16th century). g

hese Next door, Correggio’s Danäe (1530–31) shares wall space with a willowy Venus, as portrayed by Cranach in his Venere e Amore che Reca Il Favo do Miele (Venus and Cupid with Honeycomb; 1531). Moving on, Sala XIV boasts two self-portraits by Bernini, and Sala XVIII contains two significant works by Rubens: Compianto su Cristo morto (The Deposition; 1603) and Susanna e I Vecchioni (Su- sanna and the Elders; 1605–07). To finish, Titian’s early masterpiece Amor Sacro e Amor Profano (; 1514) in Sala XX is one of the collection’s most prized works. 185

MUSEO E GALLERIA BORGHESE

Cafe

Ticket Bookshop Office Villa Borghese & ­

Main Entrance

Services and Amenities Level (Basement)

Susanna e l Compianto su Vecchioni Cristo morto

Sala Norther XVIII Sala XIV Bernini self-portraits La Caccia Madonna Sala IX di Diana col Bambino Sala Adorazione del Bambino n R XIX Dama con La Deposizione Liocorno di Cristo ome Amor Sacro e Venere e Amore che

Reca II Favo do Miele Amor Profano Danae Bor e Galleria Museo Sala XX Sala X

First Floor

Sala IV Sala III Ratto di Proserpina Apollo e Dafne g hese Satiro Combattente Bas-Relief Floor Mosaics Entrance Hall Sala VIII Ragazzo col Venere Canestro di Frutta Vincitrice Caravaggio Sala I collection

Ground Floor 186 1 SIGHTS Cinema dei Piccoli (%06 855 34 85; www. cinemadeipiccoli.it; Viale delle Pineta 15; tickets Mon-Fri €5, Sat & Sun €6; gPorta Pinciana) is the world’s smallest cinema. 1 Villa Borghese Bike hire is available at various points, & Around including Largo Pablo Picasso, for €5/15 per hour/day. Note that Monday is not a MUSEUM MUSEO E GALLERIA BORGHESE good day to explore Villa Borghese, as all See p183. the museums and galleries are shut – they open Tuesday through Sunday. VILLA BORGHESE PARK Map p324 (entrances at Piazzale San Paolo del Bra- MUSEO CARLO BILOTTI GALLERY sile, Piazzale Flaminio, Via Pinciana, Via Raimondo, Map p324 (%06 06 08; www.museocarlobilotti. h g Largo Pablo Picasso; -; Porta Pinci- it; Viale Fiorello La Guardia; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri ana) Locals, lovers, tourists, joggers – no one winter, 1-7pm Tue-Fri summer, 10am-7pm Sat & can resist the lure of Rome’s most celebrated Sun year-round; gPorta Pinciana) F The park. Originally the 17th-century estate of Orangery of Villa Borghese provides the

Villa Borghese & ­ Cardinal Scipione Borghese, it covers about handsome setting for the art collection of 80 hectares of wooded glades, gardens and billionaire cosmetics magnate Carlo Bilotti. grassy banks. Among its attractions are The main focus are 18 works by Giorgio de several excellent museums, the landscaped Chirico (1888–1978), one of ’s foremost Giardino del Lago (boat hire per person €3 for modern artists, but also of note is a Warhol h 20 minutes; 7am-9pm), and Piazza di Siena portrait of Bilotti’s wife and daughter. (gPorta Pinciana), a dusty arena used for Rome’s top equestrian event in May. GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE Film buffs should head to the area MODERNA E CONTEMPORANEA GALLERY Norther around the Piazzale San Paolo del Brasile Map p324 (%06 3229 8221; www.gnam.benicul- entrance, where the Casa del Cinema (p192) turali.it; Viale delle Belle Arti 131, disabled entrance hosts regular film-related events, and the n

R MUSEO NAZIONALE ETRUSCO ome DI VILLA GIULIA

S

i g h Pope Julius III’s 16th-century villa provides the charming DON’T MISS setting for Italy’s finest collection of Etruscan and pre- t Roman treasures. Exhibits, many of which came from ¨¨Sarcofago degli s tombs in the surrounding region, range from bronze Sposi figurines and black bucchero tableware to temple decora­ ¨¨Apollo di Veio tions, terracotta vases and dazzling . ¨¨Euphronios Krater Must-sees include a polychrome terracotta of Apollo, from the Etruscan town of Veio, just north of Rome, and the Euphronios Krater, a celebrated Greek PRACTICALITIES vase that was returned to Italy in 2008 after a 30-year tug ¨¨Map p324 of war between the Italian government and New York’s ¨¨www.villagiulia. Metropolitan Museum of Art. But perhaps the museum’s beniculturali.it most famous piece is the 6th-century BC Sarcofago degli Sposi (Sarcophagus of the Betrothed). This astonishing ¨¨Piazzale di Villa work, originally unearthed in a tomb in Cerveteri, depicts Giulia a husband and wife reclining on a stone banqueting ¨¨adult/reduced couch. And although called a sarcophagus, it was actually €8/4 designed as an elaborate urn for the couple’s ashes. ¨¨h8.30am-7.30pm Further finds relating to the pre-Roman Umbri and Tue-Sun ­ peoples are on show in the nearby Villa Ponia- ¨¨gVia delle Belle % % towski ( 06 321 96 98, Sunday tours 06 4423 9949; www. Arti villagiulia.beniculturali.it; h9am-1.30pm Tue-Sat, booking necessary). 187 Via Gramsci 73; adult/reduced €8/4; h8.30am- small Museo Archeologico (www.audito- 7.30pm Tue-Sun; jPiazza Thorvaldsen) Housed rium.com; Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale in a vast belle époque palace, this oft- Pietro de Coubertin; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat sum- overlooked gallery is an unsung gem. Its mer, 11am-6pm Mon-Sat winter, 10am-6pm Sun superlative collection runs the gamut from year-round; jViale Tiziano) F. neoclassical to abstract expres- Guided tours (for a minimum of 10 sionism with works by many of the most ­people) depart hourly between 11.30am important exponents of 19th- and 20th- and 4.30pm Saturday and Sunday, and by century art. ­arrangement from Monday to Friday. There are canvases by the macchiaioli (Italian Impressionists) and futurists Boc- MUSEO NAZIONALE DELLE ARTI cioni and Balla, as well as sculptures by DEL XXI SECOLO (MAXXI) GALLERY Canova and major works by Modigliani, De Map p324 (%06 320 19 54; www.fondazione- Chirico and Guttuso. International artists .it; Via Guido Reni 4a; adult/reduced €11/8; represented include Van Gogh, Cézanne, h11am-7pm Tue-Sun, to 10pm Sat; ­jViale Monet, Klimt, and Alberto Giacometti, Tiziano)­ As much as the exhibitions, the whose trademark stick-figures share a room highlight of Rome’s leading contemporary with a Jackson Pollock canvas, a curvaceous art gallery is the Zaha Hadid–designed Villa Borghese & ­ Henry Moore sculpture, and a hanging mo- building it occupies. Formerly a barracks, bile by Alexander Calder. the curved concrete structure is striking in- side and out with a multilayered geometric facade and a cavernous light-filled interior 1 Flaminio full of snaking walkways and suspended staircases. AUDITORIUM PARCO The gallery has a small permanent col- DELLA MUSICA CULTURAL CENTRE lection, but more interesting are the tem- Map p324 (%06 8024 1281; www.auditorium. porary exhibitions. In recent times these Norther com; Viale Pietro de Coubertin 10; guided tours have included installations by avant-garde adult/reduced €9/7; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, Chinese sculptor Hang Yong Ping and an 10am-6pm Sun; jViale Tiziano) Designed by exhibition of contemporary Iranian art. archistar Renzo Piano and inaugurated in n R 2002, Rome’s flagship cultural centre is PONTE MILVIO BRIDGE ome an audacious work of architecture consist- Map p324 (gPonte Milvio) A cobblestoned

ing of three grey pod-like concert halls set footbridge, Ponte Milvio is best known as S round a 3000-seat amphitheatre. the site of the ancient Battle of the Mil- i g h Excavations during its construction re- vian Bridge. The bridge was first built t

vealed remains of an ancient Roman villa, in 109 BC to carry Via Flaminia over the s which are now on show in the Auditorium’s and survived intact until 1849, when

THE BATTLE OF THE MILVIAN BRIDGE Constantine’s defeat of at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge on 28 October 312 is one of the most celebrated victories in Roman history. The battle came as the culmination of a complex seven-year power struggle for control of the Western . Constantine and his vastly outnumbered army approached Rome from the north along Via Flaminia, meeting Maxentius’ forces on the northern bank of the Tiber. Fighting was short and bloody, leaving Maxentius dead, his army in tatters, and the path to Rome unopposed. But while this is historically significant, the real reason for the battle’s mythical status is the Christian legend that surrounds it. According to the Roman historian Lactantius, Constantine dreamt a message telling him to paint a Christian symbol on his troops’ shields. A second historian, Eusebius, provides a more dramatic account, recounting how on the eve of the battle Constantine saw a cross in the sky, accom­ panied by the words, ‘In this sign, conquer.’ Whatever the case, the reality is that Constantine won a resounding victory and in so doing set the seeds for the spread of Christianity in the Roman world. 188 side there’s also a free play park open to all. GOING UNDERGROUND Booking is recommended. IN VILLA TORLONIA Beneath the greenery of Villa Torlo­ 1 nia lie reminders of a dark chapter in Salario Rome’s history. Between 1940 and MUSEO D’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA 1943, Mussolini had two air-raid shel­ DI ROMA (MACRO) ART GALLERY ters and an underground bunker (Map Map p324 (%06 06 08; www.museomacro.org; p324; %347 3811874; www.sotterraneidi- Via Nizza 138, cnr Via Cagliari; adult/reduced roma.it; guided tour €7, reservations obliga- €9.50/7.50; h10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; gVia tory; gVia Nomentana) built beneath Nizza) Along with MAXXI, this is Rome’s what was, at the time, his family estate. most important contemporary art gallery. Guided tours take you down into these Occupying a converted Peroni brewery, it bare underground chambers, complete hosts temporary exhibitions and displays with anti-gas doors and air filtration works from its permanent collection of systems. The bunker, whose 4m-thick post-1960s Italian art.

Villa Borghese & ­ walls lie 6m below the Casino Nobile, Vying with the exhibits for your attention was still being worked on when the is the museum’s sleek black-and-red interior. Duce was arrested on 25 July 1943. The work of French architect­ Odile Decq, this retains much of the building’s­ original structure while also incorporating a sophis- ­Garibaldi’s troops blew it up to stop ad- ticated steel-and-glass finish. vancing French soldiers. Pope Pius IX had it rebuilt a year later. On the northern end, CATACOMBE DI PRISCILLA CHRISTIAN SITE the Torretta Valadier was formerly used to Map p324 (%06 8620 6272; www.catacombe-

Norther stage art exhibitions. priscilla.com; Via Salaria 430; guided visit adult/ reduced €8/5; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm Tue- FORO ITALICO ARCHITECTURE Sun; gVia Salaria) Dug between the 2nd and Map p324 (Viale del Foro Italico; gPiazzale della 5th centuries, this network of creepy tun- Farnesina) n At the foot of the heavily wooded nels was known as the Queen of Catacombs. R , the Foro Italico is a grandiose It was an important early Christian burial ome Fascist-era sports complex, centred on the site and numerous martyrs and popes were Stadio Olimpico (p192), Rome’s 70,000-seat buried in the tombs and chambers that line

S football stadium. Most people pass through

i g h the 13km of tunnels. en route to a football or rugby match, but if Visits take in a decorated Greek chapel

t you’re interested in Fascist architecture, it’s and a scratchy fresco of the Virgin Mary. s worth a look. Dating to around 230 AD, this is thought Designed by the architect Enrico Del to be the oldest ever image of the Madonna. Debbio, it remains much as it was origi- nally conceived. A 17m-high marble obelisk VILLA ADA PARK stands at the beginning of a broad avenue Map p324 (entrances at Via Salaria, Via Ponte Sala- leading down to the Stadio dei Marmi, a rio, Via di Monte Antenne, Via ; h7am-sun- running track surrounded by 60 marble set; gVia Salaria) Once the private property nudes, and the Stadio Olimpico. of King Vittorio Emanuele III, Villa Ada is a big rambling park with shady paths, lakes, EXPLORA – MUSEO DEI lawns and woods. It’s popular with locals BAMBINI DI ROMA MUSEUM and explodes into life in summer when out- Map p324 (%06 361 37 76; www.mdbr.it; Via door concerts are staged during the Roma Flaminia 82; adult/reduced €8/5; henter at Incontro il Mondo festival. 10am, noon, 3pm & 5pm Tue-Sun; mFlaminio) Rome’s only dedicated kids’ museum, Ex- plora is aimed at the under-12s. It’s divided 1 into thematic sections and has everything Nomentano from a supermarket to a play pool and fire GATE engine, it’s a hands-on, feet-on, full-on ex- Map p324 (Piazzale Porta Pia; gVia XX Settem- perience that your nippers will love. Out- bre) Michelangelo’s last architectural work, this crenellated structure was commis- 189 sioned by Pope Pius IV to replace Porta BASILICA DI SANT’AGNESE FUORI Nomentana, one of the original gates in the LE MURA & MAUSOLEO DI . SANTA COSTANZA BASILICA, CATACOMBS Bitter street fighting took place here in (www.santagnese.com; entrances at Via Nomen- 1870 as Italian troops breached the adjacent tana 349 & Via di Sant Agnese 3; basilica & mau- walls to wrest the city from the pope and soleo free, catacombs guided visit adult/reduced claim it for the nascent kingdom of Italy. €8/5; hbasilica 7.30am-noon & 4-7.30pm, mau- soleo 9am-noon & 4-6pm, catacombs 9-11.30am VILLA TORLONIA PARK Mon-Sat & 3-4.30pm daily; gVia Nomentana) Map p324 (Via Nomentana 70; h7am-7.30pm win- Although a bit of a hike, it’s well worth ter, to 8.30pm summer; gVia Nomentana) Full of searching out this intriguing medieval towering pine trees, atmospheric palms and church complex, comprising the Basilica scattered , this splendid 19th-century di Sant’Agnese Fuori le Mura and the 4th- park once belonged to Prince Giovanni Tor- century Mausoleo di Santa Costanza, home lonia (1756–1829), a powerful banker and to some of Christendom’s earliest mosaics. landowner. His large neoclassical villa, The current basilica, whose origins date Casino Nobile, later became the Mussolini to the 7th century BC, was built over the family home (1925–43) and, in the latter catacombs where St Agnes was buried. It Villa Borghese & ­ part of WWII, Allied headquarters (1944– has been much modified over the centuries 47). These days it houses an . but its golden apse mosaic, one of the best examples of Byzantine art in Rome, has MUSEI DI VILLA TORLONIA MUSEUM survived intact. It shows St Agnes, flanked Map p324 (%06 06 08; www.museivillatorlonia.it; by popes Honorius and Symmachus, stand- Via Nomentana 70; Casino Nobile adult/reduced ing over the signs of her martyrhood – a €7.50/6.50, Casina delle Civitte adult/reduced sword and a flame. According to tradition, €6/5, combined adult/reduced €9.50/7.50; the 13-year-old Agnes was sentenced to be Norther h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; gVia Nomentana) Housed burnt at the stake, but when the flames in three villas – Casino Nobile, Casina failed to kill her she was beheaded on Piaz- delle Civette and Casino dei Principi – this za Navona and buried beneath this church. ­museum boasts an eclectic collection of Up from the main basilica is the Mauso- sculpture, paintings, furnishings, and deco- n

leo di Santa Costanza. This squat circular R rative stained glass. The main ticket office building has a dome supported by 12 pairs ome is just inside the Via Nomentana entrance of granite and a vaulted ambula-

to Villa Torlonia.

tory decorated with beautiful 4th-century S With its oversized neoclassical facade, mosaics. i g h designed by , Casino t

Nobile (www.museivillatorlonia.it; Villa Torlonia, s Via Nomentana 70; adult/reduced­ €7.50/6.50; QUARTIERE COPPEDÈ h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; gVia Nomentana) makes quite an impression. In the ­lavishly deco- Best entered from the corner of Via rated interior you can ­admire the Torlo- Tagliamento and Via Dora, the com­ nia family’s fine collection of classically­ pact Quartiere Coppedè (Map p324; inspired sculpture and early-20th-century jViale Regina Margherita) is a fairy-tale paintings from the Scuola ­Romana (Roman neighbourhood of Tuscan turrets, School of Art). Liberty sculptures, Moorish arches, To the northeast, the much smaller Gothic gargoyles, frescoed facades Casina delle Civette (www.museivillatorlonia. and palm-fringed gardens. The mind it; Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70; h9am-7pm behind the madness belonged to the Tue-Sun; gVia Nomentana) is a bizarre mix of little-known Florentine architect, Gino Swiss cottage, Gothic castle and twee farm- Coppedè, who designed and built the house decorated in art-nouveau style. Built quarter between 1913 and 1926. between 1840 and 1930, it’s now a museum At the heart of the district is the dedicated to stained glass. whimsical Fontana delle Rane (Foun- Casino dei Principi (Villa Torlonia, Via No- tain of the Frogs; Map p324; Piazza Mincio; mentana 70; adult/reduced incl Casino Nobile jViale Regina Margherita), a modern h g €7.50/6.50; 9am-7pm Tue-Sun; Via Nomen- take on the better known Fontana delle tana), which houses the archive of the Scuola Tartarughe in the Jewish Ghetto. Romana, stages temporary exhibitions.­ 190 best on sultry summer evenings when you HIDDEN GELATO GEMS can sit on the terrace and revel in the ro- mantic atmosphere over coffee, cocktails or This neck of Rome harbours some an al fresco dinner of classic Italian cuisine. outstanding gelaterie. They’re not the easiest to find, though, and unless you know where to look you’re unlikely 5 Flaminio to stumble on them. A typical case in point is Neve di Latte (Map p324; Via BAR POMPI PASTRIES € Poletti 6; gelato €2.50-5; hnoon-10pm Map p324 ( 8; tiramisu €3.50; h7am- Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat), an innocuous midnight Wed-Mon, 4pm-midnight Tue; gPonte looking place near MAXXI that serves Milvio) This renowned pasticceria serves some of the best classical ice creams Rome’s most celebrated tiramisu. Alongside in town. Over the river, Al Settimo the classic coffee, liqueur and cocoa combi- Gelo (Map p324; www.alsettimogelo. nation, there are several other versions, in- it; Via Vodice 21a; gelato €2-5; h10-8pm cluding strawberry, pistachio, and banana Mon-Sat winter, to 11pm summer, 11.30am- and chocolate.

Villa Borghese & ­ 2pm & 3.30-8pm Sun; gPiazza Giuseppe Mazzini) is another much-lauded ge­ IL GIANFORNAIO BAKERY € lateria, known for its creative flavours Map p324 (Largo Maresciallo Diaz 16; pizza slices h and use of natural ingredients. €3.50; 7.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun; gPonte Milvio) This popular lunch spot is something of a Jack of all trades, serving a range of sweet and savoury snacks – think 5 EATING cornettos (croissants), home-baked biscuits and excellent pizza slices – as well as daily pasta and meat dishes. Norther 5 Villa Borghese & PALLOTTA TRATTORIA, PIZZA €€ Around Map p324 (%06 333 42 45; www.ristorantepallotta. it; Piazzale Ponte Milvio 23; meals €30, pizzas from SERENELLA PIZZA € n €7; hnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm; gPonte Milvio) An R Map p324 (Via Salaria 70; pizza slices from €1.50;

ome h8am-10pm; gVia Salaria) It’s a bit out of the unpretentious spot with a shady garden, this way, but this humble pizza takeaway makes landmark trattoria is good for traditional

Roman pastas, uncomplicated grilled meats E for a top pit-stop. It uses natural yeast in its a and crispy pizzas. It’s well known locally and

t pizza bases. which come with a selection of i ng imaginative toppings. For a cheap, easy-to- can get busy, so it’s best to book. eat snack, the pizza bianca (with salt and olive oil) is excellent. 5 Salario CINECAFFÈ CAFE € PASTICCERIA GRUÈ PASTRIES € Map p324 (www.cinecaffe.it; Casina delle Rose, Map p324 (Viale Regina Margherita 95; pastries Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1; meals €15-25; from €2; h7am-9pm; jViale Regina Margher- h8.30am-8.30pm; gPorta Pinciana) Part of ita) the Casa del Cinema (p192) complex, this One of many eateries on Viale Regina modern cafe is one of the few places to get a Margherita, this sleek pasticceria-cafe is a decent bite in Villa Borghese. Stop by for a local hotspot – suits and sharply dressed morning coffee or claim a table on the sun- office workers lunch here and evening sees ny deck and tuck into an ample lunch buffet the local aperitif crowd move in. But its real (€15 for one plate, €25 for no-limits access). calling cards are the exquisitely designed pastries and chocolates that stare out from CAFFÈ DELLE ARTI CAFE, RISTORANTE €€ beneath the counter. Map p324 (%06 3265 1236; www.caffedellearti- roma.com; Via Gramsci 73; meals €45; h12.30- 3.30pm daily & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; jPiazza Thor- 5 Parioli valdsen) The cafe-restaurant of the Galleria METAMORFOSI RISTORANTE €€€ Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (p187) sits in % neoclassical splendour in a tranquil corner Map p324 ( 06 807 68 39; www.metamorfosiro- of Villa Borghese. An elegant venue, it’s at its ma.it; Via Giovanni Antonelli 30-32; tasting menus 191 €80-110, lunch menus €45; h12.30-2.30pm & a larger complex that stages more reserved 8-10.30pm, closed Sat lunch & Sun; gVia Gio- events such as Sunday markets, exhibitions vanni Antonelli) Since opening in 2011, chef and aperitifs. Roy Carceres’ Michelin-starred restaurant has established itself as one of Rome’s top CHIOSCHETTO DI PONTE MILVIO BAR dining tickets, offering innovative, contem- Map p324 (Ponte Milvio 44; h6pm-2am sum- porary cuisine, impeccable service, and a mer only; gPonte Milvio) A local landmark, chic but informal setting. Various tasting this green kiosk next to the Ponte Milvio menus are available, including a three- bridge is perennially popular with the course lunch option. young crowd from Rome’s wealthy north- ern suburbs. It might look like a shack – it MOLTO RISTORANTE €€€ is a shack – but the mojitos are the business Map p324 (%06 808 29 00; www.moltoitaliano. and it does an excellent thirst-quenching it; Viale Parioli 122; meals €45-50; h1-3pm & grattachecca (shaved ice flavoured with 8-11pm; gViale Parioli) Fashionable and qui- fruit syrup). etly glamorous, Molto is a Parioli favourite. The discreet entrance gives onto an elegant, PIPER CLUB CLUB modern interior and open-air terrace, while Map p324 (www.piperclub.it; Via Tagliamento 9; Villa Borghese & ­ the menu offers everything from simple, h11pm-5am Fri & Sat; gViale Regina Margherita) homemade pastas to more decadent truffle- To Rome what Studio 54 was to New York, flavoured dishes and succulent roast meats. Piper has been a nightlife fixture for 50 years, and it just keeps on going. Fridays it hosts themed parties, everything from DRINKING & Latin nights to ’ house celebrations, 6 while on Saturdays resident DJs drive the NIGHTLIFE rhythms. Norther MOMART BAR (www.momartcafe.it; Viale XXI Aprile 19; hnoon- 2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat & Sun; gVia XXI 3 ENTERTAINMENT Aprile)

A spacious modern bar in the univer- n AUDITORIUM PARCO sity district near Via Nomentana, Momart R DELLA MUSICA CONCERT VENUE serves one of Rome’s most popular aperitifs. ome Map p324 (%06 8024 1281; www.auditorium.com; A mixed crowd of students and local profes- j Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30; Viale Tiziano) The sionals flocks here to fill up on the pizza-led Dri hub of Rome’s thriving cultural scene, the buffet and kick back over cocktails on the Auditorium is the capital’s premier concert nk i pavement terrace. venue and one of Europe’s most popular ng BRANCALEONE CLUB arts centres. Its three concert halls offer su- &Nig h (www.brancaleone.eu; Via Levanna 11; hhours vary, perb acoustics, and, together with a 3000- typically 10.30pm-late; gVia Nomentana) From seat open-air arena, stage everything from its anti-establishment roots as a centro so- classical-music concerts to jazz gigs, public

lectures, and film screenings. t

ciale (social centre), Brancaleone has grown li The Auditorium is also home to Rome’s to become one of Rome’s top clubs, drawing f blockbuster DJs and a young clubbing crowd. world-class Orchestra dell’ Accademia e Rap, hip-hop, drum’n’bass, and electronica Nazionale di Santa Cecilia (www.santa­ feature heavily, and there’s a regular calen- cecilia.it). dar of events and one-off evenings. The club TEATRO OLIMPICO is in the outlying Montesacro district. Map p324 (%06 326 59 91; www.teatroolimpico. g LANIFICIO 159 CLUB it; Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17; Piazza Man- j (www.lanificio159.com; Via 159a; cini, Piazza Mancini) The Teatro Olimpico is hhours vary, typically 11pm-4am; gVia Val home to the Accademia Filarmonica Roma- Brembana) Occupying an ex-wool factory na (www.filarmonicaromana.org), a classical- in Rome’s northeastern suburbs, this cool music organisation whose past members underground venue hosts live gigs and hot have included Rossini, Donizetti and Verdi. clubbing action, led by top Roman crews The theatre offers a varied program of clas- and international DJs. The club is part of sical and chamber music, opera, ballet, one- man shows and comedies. 192

SPORT AT THE OLIMPICO

Watching a game of football (or rugby) at Rome’s Stadio Olimpico (Map p324; %06 3685 7520; Viale dei Gladiatori 2, Foro Italico) is an unforgettable experience, although you’ll have to keep your wits about you as crowd trouble is not unheard of. Throughout the football season (September to May) there’s a game most Sundays involving one of the city’s two teams: A S Roma (www.asroma.it), known as the gial- lorossi (yellow and reds), or Lazio (www.sslazio.it), the biancazzuri (white and blues). Tickets cost from about €16 depending on the match and can be bought at Lottomat­ ica outlets, at the stadium, at ticket agencies, online (www.listicket.it) or at one of the several Roma or Lazio stores around town. The stadium also hosts Italy’s 6 Nations rugby matches between February and March.

CASA DEL CINEMA CINEMA BULZONI WINE Map p324 (%06 06 08; www.casadelcinema. Map p324 (www.enotecabulzoni.it; Viale Parioli it; Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese; 36; h8.30am-2pm, 4.30-8.30pm; gViale Parioli) Villa Borghese & ­ gPorta Pinciana) In Villa Borghese, the Casa This historic wine shop has been supplying del Cinema comprises three projection Parioli with wine since 1929. It has a formi- halls, an exhibition space, and an outdoor dable collection of Italian regional wines, theatre. It screens everything from docu- as well as European and New World labels, mentaries to shorts, indie flicks and art- and a carefully curated selection of cham- house classics (sometimes in their original pagnes, liqueurs, olive oils and ­gourmet language), and hosts a regular program of delicacies. retrospectives and film-related events. BAGHEERA FASHION Norther SILVANO TOTI GLOBE THEATRE THEATRE Map p324 (www.bagheeraboutique.com; Piazza Map p324 (%06 06 08; www.globetheatreroma. Euclide 30; h9.30am-1pm Tue-Sat, 3.30-7.30pm com; Largo Aqua Felix, Villa Borghese; tickets €10- Mon-Sat; gPiazza Euclide) This modish bou- 23; gPiazzale Brasile) Like London’s Globe tique has long been a local go-to for the lat- n

R Theatre but with better weather, Villa est fashions. Alongside sandals and vampish

ome Borghese’s open-air Elizabethan theatre high heels you’ll find dresses by Dries Van serves up Shakespeare (performances mostly Noten and a selection of bags and accesso-

S ho in Italian) from July through to September. ries by big-name international designers.

pp ANTICAGLIE A PONTE MILVIO MARKET h i Map p324 (Via Capoprati; 9am-8pm 1st & 2nd ng 7 SHOPPING Sun of month, closed Aug; gPonte Milvio) The LIBRERIA L’ARGONAUTA BOOKS 2nd-century-BC Ponte Milvio forms the Map p324 (www.librerialargonauta.com; Via Reg- backdrop to this monthly antique market. gio Emilia 89; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & On the first and second Sunday of every 4-8pm Sat; gVia Nizza) Near the MACRO mu- month up to 200 stalls spring up on the seum, this travel bookshop is a lovely place riverbank laden with antiques, objets d’art, to browse. With its serene atmosphere and vintage clothes, period furniture and all shelves of travel literature, guides, maps manner of collectable clobber. and photo tomes, it can easily spark day- dreams of far-off places. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 214

Sleeping

From opulent five-star palaces to chic boutique hotels, family-run pensions, B&Bs, hostels and convents, Rome has accommodation to please everyone. But while there’s plenty of choice, rates are universally high and you’ll need to book early to get the best deal.

Pensions & Hotels Rental Accommodation The bulk of Rome’s accommodation consists For longer stays, renting an apartment will of pensioni (pensions) and alberghi (hotels). generally work out cheaper than an extended A pensione is a small, family-run hotel, hotel sojourn. Bank on about €900 per month often in a converted apartment. Rooms are for a studio apartment or one-bedroom flat. usually fairly simple, though most come with For longer stays, you’ll probably have to pay a private bathroom. bills plus a building maintenance charge. Hotels are rated from one to five stars. Most hotels in Rome’s historic centre tend to Seasons & Rates be three-star and up. As a rule, a three-star Rome doesn’t have a low season as such but room will come with a hairdryer, a minibar rates are at their lowest from November to (or fridge), a safe, air-con and wi-fi. Some may March (excluding Christmas and New Year) also have satellite TV. Note that Roman ho- and from mid-July through August. Expect tel rooms tend to be small, especially in the to pay top whack in spring (April to June) centro­ storico and Trastevere, where hotels and autumn (September and October) and are often housed in centuries-old palazzi. over the main holiday periods (Christmas, New Year and Easter). Most midrange and B&Bs & Guesthouses top-end hotels accept credit cards. It’s always Alongside traditional B&Bs, Rome has many best to check in advance. boutique-style guesthouses offering chic ac- commodation at midrange to top-end prices. Accommodation Websites Breakfast in a Roman B&B usually con- ¨Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/ sists of bread rolls, croissants, yoghurt, ham rome/hotels) Consult a list of author-reviewed and cheese. accommodation options and book online. ¨060608 (www.060608.it/en/accoglienza/ Hostels dormire) Official di Roma site with Rome’s hostels cater to everyone from back- accommodation lists. Details are not always packers to budget-minded families. Many offer up to date. hotel-style rooms alongside traditional dorms. ¨Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome Some hostels don’t accept reservations for (www.b-b.rm.it) Lists B&Bs and short-term dorm beds, so it’s first come, first served. apartment rentals. ¨ (www.bbitalia.it) Religious Institutions Bed & Breakfast Italia Rome’s longest-established B&B network. Many of Rome’s religious institutions offer ¨ (www.romeasyoufeel.com) cheap(ish) rooms. These often impose strict Rome As You Feel curfews and are fairly short on frills. Book Apartment rentals, from cheap studio flats well ahead. to luxury apartments. 215 Lonely Planet’s Best for Location NEED TO KNOW Top Choices Albergo Abruzzi (p217) Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) Wake up to the Pantheon. Price Ranges Arty retreat in elegant sur- Casa di Santa Brigida These price ranges roundings. (p217) A convent overlooking are for a high-season

Piazza Farnese. Sleeping 181 (p219) Chic ­double room with private luxury on top shopping street. ­bathroom: Arco del Lauro (p221) Best for € under €110 Minimalist comfort in Trastevere Romance €110 to €200  €€

 .B&B Hotel Sant’Anselmo (p222) €€€ over €200 Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Escape to this beautiful Liberty- Stately style in a city-centre Breakfast is included style villa. mansion. ­unless otherwise stated. Hotel Locarno (p219) Star in your own romance at this Reservations Best by Budget art-deco gem. ¨¨Always try to book ahead, especially for the € major religious festivals. Arco del Lauro (p221) A Best B&Bs ¨¨Ask for a camera cool bolthole in happening ­matrimoniale for a room Trastevere. Maria-Rosa Guesthouse (p221) Your Trastevere home with a double bed; a Althea Inn (p222) Designer from home. camera doppia has twin comfort at budget prices. beds. La Piccola Maison (p218) Beehive (p220) Classy hostel Quiet comfort near Piazza Checking In & Out near Termini. Barberini. ¨¨When you check in you’ll need to present €€ Best Value for your passport or ID card. ¨ Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) A Money ¨Checkout is usually be- delightful villa hotel. tween 10am and noon. In Althea Inn (p222) A hidden hostels it’s around 9am. Residenza Maritti (p216) gem near Testaccio. Welcoming hideaway near the ¨¨Some guesthouses and forums. Le Stanze di Orazio (p219) B&Bs require you to ar- Get your money’s worth at this range a time to check in. Daphne Inn (p218) Boutique Vatican B&B. hotel with superlative service. La Controra (p218) Quality hostel in upscale area. €€€ Babuino 181 (p219) Bask in understated luxury Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Live like country-house nobility 216 Where to Stay

Neighbourhood For Against Close to major sights such as , Roman Not cheap and has few Forum and ; quiet at . ­budget options; restaurants are touristy. Sleeping Centro Storico Atmospheric area with everything on your Most expensive part of town; doorstep – Pantheon, , restau- few budget options; can be rants, bars, shops. noisy.

ANCIENT ROME Tridente, Trevi Good for , Trevi and Upmarket area with prices to  & the Quirinale designer shopping; excellent midrange to top- match; subdued after dark. end options; good transport links. Monti, Esquilino Lots of budget accommodation around Stazione Some dodgy streets in & San Lorenzo Termini; top eating options in Monti and good ­Termini area, which is not nightlife in San Lorenzo; good transport links. Rome’s most characterful. San Giovanni Authentic atmosphere with good eating and Few options available; not & Testaccio drinking options; Aventino, a quiet, romantic many big sights. area; Testaccio, a top food and nightlife district. Trastevere & Gorgeous, atmospheric area; party vibe with Very noisy, particularly on Gianicolo hundreds of bars, cafes, and restaurants; some summer nights; expensive. interesting sights. , Near St Peter’s Basilica and ; Expensive near St Peter’s; & decent range of accommodation; some excel- not much nightlife; sells out lent shops and restaurants; on the metro. quickly for religious holidays. Villa Borghese Largely residential area good for the Auditorium Out of the centre; few budget & Northern and some top museums; generally quiet after choices. Rome dark.

leather bedsteads, hanging lamps, and the 4 Ancient Rome ­occasional art tome.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL oRESIDENZA MARITTI GUESTHOUSE €€ FORTY SEVEN €€€ Map p300 (%06 678 82 33; www.residenzamar- Map p300 (%06 678 78 16; www.fortysevenhotel. itti.com; Via Tor de’ Conti 17; s €50-120, d €80-170, com; Via Petroselli 47; r €170-300; aW; gVia tr €100-190; aW; mCavour) Boasting stun- Petroselli) Near the Bocca della Verità, the ning views over the forums, this gem has plain grey facade of this classy four-star rooms spread over several floors. Some are gives onto a bright modern interior, full of bright and modern, others are more cosy sunshine and sharply designed guest rooms. in feel, with antiques and family furniture. There’s also a rooftop restaurant and, in the There’s no breakfast but you can use a fully basement, a gym and Turkish bath. equipped kitchen. HOTEL FORUM HISTORIC HOTEL €€€ % BOUTIQUE HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ Map p300 ( 06 679 24 46; www.hotelforum. Map p300 (%06 678 18 35; www.hotelnerva. com; Via Tor de’ Conti 25-30; r €180-350; aW; com; Via Tor de’ Conti 3; s €70-180, d €90-300; mCavour) The stately Forum offers formal aW; mCavour) Fresh from a recent make­ elegance and inspiring views. From the over, this friendly hotel is tucked away be- rooftop restaurant you can survey a sea of hind the Imperial Forums. Its snug rooms ruins, while inside it’s all antiques, wood- display a contemporary look in shades panelling and dangling chandeliers. Rooms of cream, grey and black, with padded are small and classically attired. Parking is available for €40 per day. 217 aW; gCorso del Rinascimento) This small 4 Centro Storico hotel offers a range of handsome, modern rooms in a 15th-century palazzo near Pi- HOTEL PENSIONE BARRETT PENSION € azza Navona. They come in various shapes Map p304 (%06 686 84 81; www.pensionebar- and looks, but the most striking feature a rett.com; 47; s €115, d showy silver-and-grey design. Breakfast aW g

€125, tr €150; ; Largo di Torre Argentina) costs €10 extra. Sleeping This charming pension boasts a conveni- ent central location and an exuberant decor HOTEL TEATRO DI POMPEO HOTEL €€ that marries leafy pot plants with , Map p304 (%06 6830 0170; www.hotelteatro­ busts and vibrant stucco. Rooms are cosy dipompeo.it; Largo del Pallaro 8; s €90-165, d

€110-220; aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) and come with thoughtful extras like foot  CENTRO STORICO spas and fully stocked fridges. Tucked away behind Campo de’ Fiori, this charming hotel sits atop the 1st-century-BC ALBERGO DEL SOLE HOTEL € – the basement break- Map p304 (%06 687 94 46; www.solealbiscione. fast room is actually in the theatre’s ruins. it; Via del Biscione 76; s €70-100, d €100-145, tr Rooms are attractive with classic wooden €120-180; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) furniture, terracotta floor tiles, and, in This simple, no-frills place is supposedly some, sloping wood-beamed ceilings. the oldest hotel in Rome, dating to 1462. There’s nothing special about the function- DIMORA DEGLI DEI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ al rooms, but each floor has its own out- Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.pantheondimo- door terrace, and the location near Campo radeglidei.com; Via del Seminario 87; r €80-200; de’ Fiori is excellent. No breakfast. aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Location and discreet style are the selling points of this ALBERGO CESÀRI HISTORIC HOTEL €€ elegant bolthole near the Pantheon. On Map p304 (%06 674 97 01; www.albergocesari.it; the 1st floor of a centuries-old palazzo, it Via di Pietra 89/A; s €70-150, d €110-250; aW; has six high-ceilinged tastefully furnished gVia del Corso) This friendly three-star has rooms. Breakfast (€10) is optional. been welcoming guests since 1787 and both Stendhal and Mazzini are said to have slept CASA DI SANTA here. Modern visitors can expect tradition- BRIGIDA RELIGIOUS ACCOMMODATION €€ al rooms, a stunning rooftop terrace, and a Map p304 (%06 6889 2596; www.brigidine.org; wonderful central location. 96, entrance Via di Monserrato 54; s/d €120/200; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) HOTEL DUE TORRI HOTEL €€ Named after the Swedish St Brigid who died Map p304 (%06 6880 6956; www.hotelduetor- here in 1373, this tranquil convent enjoys a riroma.com; Vicolo del Leonetto 23; s €70-140, d superb location overlooking Piazza Farnese. €110-220, tr €140-240; aW; gVia di Monte Bri- Rooms are simple, clean and decidedly low- anzo) If the rooms at this refined hotel could tech – entertainment here is limited to a pi- talk, they’d have some stories to tell. The ano in the communal room, a small library Due Torri might now be a classically attired and views from the roof terrace. three-star with period furniture and 26 cosy rooms, but in centuries past it housed oHOTEL CAMPO a cardinals’ residence and a brothel. DE’ FIORI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 687 48 86; www.hotelcampodefio- ARGENTINA RESIDENZA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ ri.com; Via del Biscione 6; r €90-400, apt €80-350; Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.argentinares- aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) This rak- idenza.com; Via di Torre Argentina 47; r €120-200; ish four-star has got the lot – baroque bou- aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Escape the doir decor, an enviable location, professional hustle and relax in the comfort of this quiet staff and a fabulous panoramic roof terrace. boutique hotel on Largo di Torre Argentina. The interior feels delightfully decadent with Its six decently sized rooms sport a low-key its boldly coloured walls, low wooden ceil- contemporary look with design touches ings, gilt mirrors and restored bric-a-brac. and elegant furnishings. Also available are 13 apartments.

HOTEL NAVONA HOTEL €€ ALBERGO ABRUZZI HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 6821 1392; www.hotelnavona. Map p304 (%06 679 20 21; www.hotelabruzzi.it; com; Via dei Sediari 8; s €60-170, d €60-260; Piazza della Rotonda 69; d €120-340, tr €150-400, 218 q €180-450; aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) As DAPHNE INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ locations go, the Abruzzi’s tops the charts, Map p308 (%06 8745 0086; www.daphne-rome. bang opposite the Pantheon. Its recently com; Via di San Basilio 55; s €115-180, d €130-240, refurbished rooms sport a smart look with ste €190-290, without bathroom s €70-130, d blown-up photos printed on white walls and €90-160; aW; mBarberini) Run by an Amer- dark wood flooring. They are small, though, ican-Italian couple, the Daphne has helpful

Sleeping and late-night noise might be a problem. English-speaking staff and chic, comforta- ble rooms. They come in various shapes and sizes, but the overall look is smart contem- 4 Tridente, Trevi porary. There’s a second branch, Daphne Trevi, at Via degli Avignonesi 20.

TRIDENTE, TREVI & THE QUIRINALE & the Quirinale

oLA CONTRORA HOSTEL € HOTEL SUISSE PENSION €€ (%06 9893 7366; Via Umbria 7; dm €20-40, d Map p308 (%06 678 36 49; www.hotelsuisse- €80-110; aiW; mBarberini, mRepubblica) rome.com; Via Gregoriana 54; s €80-100, d €135- Quality budget accommodation is thin on 170, tr €180-200; iW; mSpagna, mBarberini) the ground in the upmarket area north of An air of old-school elegance pervades at Piazza Repubblica, but this great little hos- this delightful family-run pension. Attrac- tel is a top choice. It has a friendly laid-back tive antique furniture and creaking, pol- vibe, cool staff, double rooms and bright, ished parquet floors set the tone for the 12 airy mixed dorms (for three and four peo- tasteful, modestly decorated rooms. ple), with parquet floors, air-con and pri- vate bathrooms. GREGORIANA HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 679 42 69; www.hotelgregoriana. a HOTEL PANDA PENSION € it; Via Gregoriana 18; s €120-168,d €150-288; ; Map p308 (%06 678 01 79; www.hotelpanda.it; Via mSpagna) This low-key, polished art-deco della Croce 35; s €65-90, d €85-130, tr €120-150, q hotel is fantastically set behind the Span- €160-190; aW; mSpagna) Near the Spanish ish Steps. Beds have beautiful, circular Steps, in an area where a bargain is a Bul- maple-wood headboards, snow-white linen gari watch bought at the sales, the Panda and lots of gleaming rosewood. Staff are flies the flag for budget accommodation. It’s ­friendly and unpretentious. a friendly place with high-ceilinged rooms and simple, tasteful decor. Air-con is free in MARGUTTA GLAMOUR summer, but €6 in other periods. STUDIOS APARTMENT €€ Map p308 (%333 7982702; www.marguttaglam- LA PICCOLA MAISON B&B €€ ourstudios.com; Via Margutta 54-55; apt €150- Map p308 (%06 4201 6331; www.lapiccolamaison. 180; mSpagna) Four charming apartments com; Via dei Cappuccini 30; s €50-180, d €70-270; on one of Rome’s prettiest streets, which aW; mBarberini) The excellent Piccola Mai- has a village feel despite being in the thick son is housed in a 19th-century building in of Tridente. All are decorated with flair, a great location close to Piazza Barberini, and the two larger apartments, in former and has pleasingly plain, neutrally decorated artists’ studios, are spectacular, with dou- rooms and thoughtful staff. It’s a great deal. ble height ceilings; the smaller two are charming, with pretty outlooks.

HOTEL TAX HOTEL MOZART HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 3600 1915; www.hotelmozart. Everyone overnighting in Rome has to com; Via dei Greci 23b; r €140-200; aiW; pay a room-occupancy tax on top of mSpagna) The Mozart has classic, immacu- their regular bill. late rooms, decorated in dove greys, egg- ¨¨€3 per person per night in one- and shell blues, golden yellows and rosy pinks, two-star hotels with comfortable beds, gleaming linen and ¨¨€3.50 in B&Bs and room rentals polished wooden furniture; deluxe rooms ¨¨€4/6/7 in three-/four-/five-star have jacuzzis and small terraces. hotels. It also administers the Vivaldi Luxury Suites and several apartments nearby. Look The tax is applicable for a maximum out for special offers on the website, where of 10 consecutive nights. Prices in rooms can go for as little as €80. reviews do not include the tax. 219 HOTEL BAROCCO HOTEL €€ CROSSING CONDOTTI GUESTHOUSE €€€ Map p308 (%06 487 20 01; www.hotelbarocco. Map p308 (%06 6992 0633; www.crossingcon- com; Piazza Barberini 9; d €160-290; aiW; dotti.com; Via Mario de’ Fiori 28; r €240-470; mBarberini) Very central, this well-run, wel- aW; mSpagna) This is one of Rome’s breed coming 41-room hotel overlooking Piazza of upmarket guesthouses, where all the Barberini (the pricier rooms have views) has fittings, linen and comforts are top of the

a classic feel, with rooms featuring oil paint- range, and the pretty, though not large, Sleeping ings, spotless linen, gentle colour schemes rooms have lots of character and antique and fabric-covered walls. Breakfast is ample furnishings. There’s also a well-stocked and served in a wood-panelled room. kitchen with drinks and a Nespresso ma- chine. The more expensive rooms, recently HOTEL LOCARNO HOTEL €€ added, have walk-in showers and a kitchen- VATICAN CITY, BORGO & PRATI Map p308 (%06 361 08 41; www.hotellocarno. ette, and the top choice has a Turkish bath. com; Via della Penna 22; s €90-260, d €120-270; aiW; mFlaminio) With its ivy-clad exte- HOTEL DE RUSSIE HOTEL €€€ rior, stained-glass doors and rattling cage- Map p308 (%06 32 88 81; www.hotelderussie.it; lift, the Locarno is an art-deco classic – the 9; d €550-850; ai; mFlaminio) kind of place Hercule Poirot might stay if he The historic de Russie is almost on Piazza were in town. Many rooms have silk wall- del Popolo, and has exquisite terraced gar- paper and period furniture, and are occa- dens. The decor is softly luxurious in many sionally in need of TLC, but full of charm. shades of grey, and the rooms offer state- There’s a roof garden, a restaurant and an of-the-art entertainment systems, massive atmospheric bar. mosaic-tiled bathrooms and all the luxu- ries. There’s a lovely courtyard bar. HOTEL MODIGLIANI HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 4281 5226; www.hotelmodigli- ani.com; Via della Purificazione 42; s €100-160, d 4 Vatican City, Borgo €100-270; aW; mBarberini) Run by an artis- tic couple, the Modigliani is all about atten- & Prati tion to detail and service. The 23 dove-grey HOTEL SAN PIETRINO HOTEL € rooms are spacious and light, and the best Map p312 (%06 370 01 32; www.sanpietrino. ones have views and balconies, either out- it; Via Bettolo 43; s €45-75, d €55-112; aiW; side or over the quiet courtyard garden. mOttaviano–San-Pietro) Within easy walk- ing distance of St Peter’s, family-run San oBABUINO 181 BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Pietrino is an excellent budget choice. Its Map p308 (%06 3229 5295; www.romeluxu- 11 cosy rooms are characterful and prettily rysuites.com/babuino; Via del Babuino 181; r decorated with terracotta-tiled floors and €240-715; aW; mFlaminio) A beautifully the occasional statue. No breakfast. renovated old palazzo, Babuino offers dis- creet luxury, with great attention to detail, COLORS HOTEL HOTEL € a sleek roof terrace and modern, chic rooms Map p312 (%06 687 40 30; www.colorshotel.com; with touches such as a Nespresso machine Via Boezio 31; s €30-90, d €45-122; aW; gVia and fluffy bathrobes. A new annexe across Cola di Rienzo) Popular with young travellers, the street has added more suites and rooms this welcoming hotel impresses with its that continue the theme of understated el- fresh, artful design and vibrantly coloured egance. The same company runs the simi- rooms. These come in various shapes and larly impressive Margutta 54 (Map p308; sizes, including some cheaper ones with %06 322 95 295; www.romeluxurysuites.com/ shared bathrooms and, from June to Au- margutta/default-en.html; Via Margutta 54; d gust, dorms for guests under 38. Breakfast from €250; mSpagna) and Mario de’ Fiori 37. on request costs €6.50.

CASA FABBRINI B&B €€€ LE STANZE DI ORAZIO B&B €€ Map p308 (%06 324 3706; www.casafabbrini. Map p312 (%06 3265 2474; www.lestanzediorazio. it; Vicolo delle Orsoline 13; r €280; mSpagna) A com; Via Orazio 3; r €85-135; aiW; mLepanto) beautifully styled boutique B&B that could This small boutique B&B is excellent value have sprung from the pages of Elle Deco- for money. It has five bright, playfully ration, with antique doors as bedheads, ­decorated rooms – think shimmering rain- coloured-glass lamps and painted furniture. bow wallpaper, lilac accents, and designer bathrooms – and a small breakfast area. 220 FABIO MASSIMO name only, this pearl offers small, hotel- DESIGN HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ standard rooms, each with its own ensuite Map p312 (%06 321 30 44; www.hotelfabiomas- bathroom, and decorated in tasteful low- simo.com; Viale Giulio Cesare 71; r €89-229; aW; key style – beamed ceilings, wooden floors, mOttaviano-San Pietro) Walkable from Ottavi- French windows, black-and-white framed ano metro station, this sleek design hotel is photos. There’s also an apartment, with

Sleeping convenient as well as stylish. From the 4th- kitchen, that sleeps up to four. No lift and floor reception and breakfast area, corri- no breakfast. dors lead off to nine rooms, each furnished in contemporary reds and slate greys, with WELROME HOTEL HOTEL € flower motifs and hanging lamps. Map p320 (%06 4782 4343; www.welrome.it;

;MONTI, ESQUILINO & SAN LORENZO Via Calatafimi 15-19; d/tr/q €110/148/187; aW  HOTEL BRAMANTE HISTORIC HOTEL €€ mTermini) A small, spotless hotel in a quiet Map p312 (%06 6880 6426; www.hotelbramante. backstreet not far from Termini. Owners com; Vicolo delle Palline 24-25; s €100-160, d Mary and Carlo take great pride in looking €140-240, tr €175-260, q €190-300; aW; gBor- after their guests and will enthusiastically go Sant’Angelo) Nestled under the Vatican­ advise you on where to eat, what to do and walls, the Bramante exudes country- where to avoid. Their seven simply deco- house charm with its cosy internal court- rated rooms are clean and comfortable. No yard, wood-beamed ceilings and antique breakfast but kettles and fridges are pro- ­furniture. It’s housed in the 16th-century vided, and there are plenty of nearby bars building where architect Domenico Fon- for a cornetto (croissant) and coffee. tana once lived. PAPA GERMANO HOTEL € oVILLA LAETITIA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p320 (%06 48 69 19; www.hotelpapa­ (%06 322 67 76; www.villalaetitia.com; Lungote- germano.it; Via Calatafimi 14a; d €50-110, with- vere delle Armi 22; r €200-280, ste €500; aW; out bathroom dm €15-35, s €30-65, d €40-85; gLungotevere delle Armi) Villa Laetitia is a aiW; mTermini) Easygoing and popular, stunning boutique hotel in a riverside art- Papa Germano is a budget stalwart. There nouveau villa. Its 20 rooms, each individu- are various sleeping options, ranging from ally designed by Anna Venturini Fendi of four-person dorms to private rooms with or the famous fashion house, marry modern without bathrooms. It has a family-run feel, design touches with vintage pieces and the decor is plain and fairly smart, and all rare finds, such as an original Picasso in rooms are scrupulously clean. the Garden Room. ALESSANDRO PALACE HOSTEL HOSTEL € Map p320 (%06 446 19 58; www.hostelsalessan- 4 dro.com; Via Vicenza 42; dm €19-35, d €70-110, Monti, Esquilino tr €85-120; aiW; mCastro Pretorio) This & San Lorenzo well-kept favourite offers spick-and-span, oBEEHIVE HOSTEL € terracotta-floored doubles and triples, as Map p320 (%06 4470 4553; www.the-beehive. well as dorms sleeping from four to eight, com; Via Marghera 8; dm €25-35, s €50-80, d all with cheery bedspreads. Every room has €90-100, without bathroom s €60-70, d €70-80, tr its own bathroom with hairdryer. There’s a €95-105; aW; mTermini) S More boutique basement bar, and it runs local tours. chic than backpacker dive, the Beehive HOTEL ARTORIUS HOTEL €€ is Rome’s best hostel; book well ahead. Map p320 (%06 482 11 96; www.hotelartori- There’s a spotless, eight-person mixed dorm usrome.com; Via del Boschetto 13; d €86-140; or six private double rooms, some with air- aiW; mCavour) con. Original artworks and funky modular The art-deco lobby looks furniture add colour, and there’s a cafe. promising, and the rest delivers too in this Some off-site rooms, sharing communal 10-room Monti hotel with a family-run feel. bathrooms and kitchen, are another bar- Rooms are simple and plain – not large, but gain (single €40 to €50, double €60 to €80). perfectly comfortable – and one (room 109) has a terrace. Book well ahead. BLUE HOSTEL HOSTEL € DUCA D’ALBA HOTEL €€ Map p320 (%340 925 85 03; www.bluehostel.it; Map p320 (%06 48 44 71; www.hotelducadalba. Via Carlo Alberto 13, 3rd fl; d €60-150, apt €100- com; Via Leonina 14; r €115-380; aW; mCavour) 180; aW; mVittorio Emanuele) A hostel in 221 This appealing four-star hotel in the Monti aged 12 or younger are welcome) is housed district has small but charming rooms: in a lovely 16th-century convent, close to most have fabric-covered or handpainted the river. It is run by the Casa Internazi- walls, wood-beamed ceilings and big flat- onale delle Donne (International ­Women’s screen TVs. House) and offers safe, well-priced ­accommodation in Trastevere. Reception RESIDENZA CELLINI GUESTHOUSE €€

is open from 7am to 3am. The 13 simple Sleeping Map p320 (%06 4782 5204; www.residenza- rooms sleep two, four, five or eight, and cellini.it; Via Modena 5; s €100-135, d €115-150; some have views onto the internal ­garden. aiW; mRepubblica) With grown-up fur- It’s wheelchair accessible.­ nishings featuring potted palms, polished wood, pale-yellow walls, oil paintings and oARCO DEL LAURO B&B €€ & TRASTEVERE GIANICOLO a hint of chintz, this charming, family-run Map p316 (%346 2443212, 9am-2pm 06 9784 place on a quiet road parallel to Via Nazion- 0350; www.arcodellauro.it; Via Arco de’ Tolomei ale offers spacious, elegant rooms, all with 27; s €72-132, d €132-145; aW; gViale di Traste- satellite TV and jacuzzi or hydro-massage vere, jViale di Trastevere) This fab six-room shower. There’s a sunny flower-surrounded B&B occupies a centuries-old palazzo on a terrace for summer breakfasts. narrow cobbled street. Its gleaming white rooms combine rustic charm with a mod- oVILLA SPALLETTI TRIVELLI HOTEL €€€ ern look and comfortable beds. The owners Map p320 (%06 4890 7934; www.villaspalletti.it; are welcoming and always ready to help. Via Piacenza 4; r €450-620; aiW; mSpagna) With 12 rooms in a glorious mansion in RELAIS LE CLARISSE HOTEL €€ central Rome, Villa Spalletti Trivelli was Map p316 (%06 5833 4437; www.leclarisse.com; built by Gabriella Rasponi, widow of Italian Via Cardinale Merry del Val 20; r €80-230; aW; senator Count Venceslao Spalletti Triveli gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Set and the niece of Carolina Bonaparte (Na- hacienda-style around a pretty internal poleon’s sister). It’s a soujourn in a stately courtyard with an olive tree and a smat- home: rooms are soberly and elegantly tering of cast-iron tables, this is a delight- decorated, and the sitting rooms are hung ful oasis in Trastevere’s bustling core. In with 16th-century or lined with contrast to the urban mayhem outside, the antique books. There’s a basement spa. hotel is a picture of farmhouse charm with rooms, each named after a plant, decorated in rustic style with wrought-iron bedsteads 4 Trastevere & Gianicolo and wood-beamed ceilings.

MARIA-ROSA GUESTHOUSE B&B € RESIDENZA ARCO DE’ TOLOMEI HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%338 7700067; www.maria-rosa. Map p316 (%06 5832 0819; www.bbarcodeito- it; Via dei Vascellari 55; s €45-65, d €65-80, tr lomei.com; Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27; d €155-205; €80-120; iW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di aW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Traste- Trastevere) This is a delightful B&B on the vere) This gorgeous place is decorated with 3rd floor of a Trastevere townhouse. It’s a ­polished antiques and rich contrasting simple affair with two guestrooms sharing chintzes that make the interiors feel like a a single bathroom and a small living room, country cottage. It’s a lovely place to stay, but the homey decor, pot plants and books and the owners are friendly and helpful. create a lovely, warm atmosphere. The own- er, Sylvie, also has a further three rooms BUONANOTTE GARIBALDI GUESTHOUSE €€ on the floor above at La Casa di Kaia (Map Map p316 (%06 5833 0733; www.buonanottegar- p316; %338 7700067; www.kaia-trastevere.it; ibaldi.com; Via Garibaldi 83; r €210-280, closed 7 Via dei Vascellari 55; with shared bathroom s €45- Jan‒7 Mar; aiW; gPiazza Sonnino, jPiazza 55, d €65-75; W; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Sonnino) With only three rooms, this is a ha- Trastevere). There’s no lift. ven: an upmarket B&B in a divinely pretty inner-city villa, set around a courtyard. The LA FORESTERIA ORSA MAGGIORE HOSTEL € rooms are beautifully decorated and there Map p316 (%06 689 37 53; www.casainternazi- are works of art and sculpture all over the onaledelledonne.org; 2nd fl, Via San Francesco di place – this is artist Luisa Longo’s house. Sales 1a; dm €26, s/d €75/110, without bathroom Pick of the rooms is Blue, upstairs, which €52/72; iW; gPiazza Trilussa) This lesbian-­ opens onto a greenery-shaded terrace. friendly, women-only guesthouse (boys 222 HOTEL SANTA MARIA HOTEL €€ HOTEL LANCELOT HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%06 589 46 26; www.hotelsantamaria. Map p314 (%06 7045 0615; www.lancelothotel. info; Vicolo del Piede 2; s €90-225, d €100-290, tr com; Via Capo d’Africa 47; s €100-128, d €130- €130-330 ; aiW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di 196; aW; gVia di San Giovanni in Laterano) A Trastevere) Walk along the ivy-lined approach great location near the Colosseum, striking and you’ll enter a tranquil haven. Surround- views, and helpful English-speaking staff ing a spacious modern cloister (a former

Sleeping – the family-run Lancelot scores across convent site), shaded by orange trees, rooms the board. The lobby and communal areas are cool and comfortable, decorated in sunny gleam with marble and crystal while the colours, and with terracotta floors. There are spacious rooms exhibit a more classic style. some larger family rooms. The staff is pro-

SAN GIOVANNI & TESTACCIO GIOVANNI SAN fessional, and there’s access for people with HOTEL ROMANCE HOTEL €€ a disability. Nearby Residenza Santa Maria Map p314 (%06 8929 5106; www.hotelromance. (Map p316; %06 5833 5103; www.residenzasan- it; Via Marco Aurelio 37a; s €70-140, d €70-200; tamaria.com; Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 20; s €90- aW; mColosseo) A warm welcome awaits 190, d €100-230; iW) is its smaller sister. at this family-run three-star near the Colos- seum. It has quiet, comfy rooms decorated VILLA DELLA FONTE B&B €€ in traditional Roman style and views over a Map p316 (%06 580 37 97; www.villafonte.com; lush garden next door. Via della Fonte dell’Olio 8; r €80-230; aW; gViale j di Trastevere, Viale di Trastevere) A terracotta- oHOTEL SANT’ANSELMO HOTEL €€€ hued, ivy-shrouded gem, Villa della Fonte is Map p314 (%06 57 00 57; www.aventinohotels. a romantic choice, occupying a 17th-century com; Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2; s €90-265, d €99- building in a street off Piazza Santa Maria 290; aW; gVia Marmorata) A ravishing ro-

in Trastevere. It has five rooms, all of which mantic hideaway in the elegant Aventino  are simply decorated but have pretty out- district. Its rooms are not the biggest but looks, good bathrooms and comfortable they are stylish, juxtaposing four-poster beds. The sunny garden terrace is a plus. beds, Liberty-style furniture and marble bathrooms with modern touches. oDONNA CAMILLA SAVELLI HOTEL €€€ Map p316 (%06 58 88 61; www.hoteldonnacamilla- savelli.com; Via Garibaldi 27; d €165-250; aiW; 4 gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) It’s sel- Villa Borghese & dom you have such an exquisite opportunity Northern Rome as to stay in a converted convent designed oPALM GALLERY HOTEL HOTEL €€ by Borromini. It’s been beautifully updated; Map p324 (%06 6478 1859; www.palmgalleryho- muted colours complement the serene con- tel.com; Via delle Alpi 15d; s €100-120, d €100-210; cave and convex curves of the architecture, aW; gVia Nomentana, gViale Regina Margher- and service is excellent. The pricier of the 78 ita) Housed in an early-20th-century villa, rooms overlook the cloister garden or have this gorgeous hotel sports an eclectic look views of Rome, and are decorated with an- that effortlessly blends African and Middle tiques – it’s worth forking out that bit extra. Eastern art with original art-deco furni- ture, exposed brickwork and hand-painted tiles. Rooms are individually decorated, 4 San Giovanni with the best offering views over the wiste- & Testaccio ria and thick greenery in the surrounding streets. oALTHEA INN B&B € Map p314 (%339 4353717, 06 9893 2666; www. altheainn.com; Via dei Conciatori 9; d €70-125; mPiramide) In a workaday apartment block, 4 Southern Rome this friendly B&B offers superb value for HOTEL ABITART HOTEL €€ money and easy access to Testaccio’s bars, Map p326 (%06 454 31 91; www.abitarthotel. clubs and restaurants. Its spacious, light- com; Via Matteucci 12; d €130-150; mPiramide, filled rooms sport a modish look with white dOstiense) Located in the gritty, trendy Os- walls and tasteful modern furniture. Each tiense area, the Abitart is decorated with also has a small terrace. a pop-arty feel, and is close to some good restaurants. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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