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The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy Through Kitchen to the World Program Towards the United States 2011-2014

The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy Through Kitchen to the World Program Towards the United States 2011-2014

THE IMPLEMENTATION OF GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM TOWARDS THE 2011-2014

By

NISRINI KHAIRANI

016201400121

A Thesis presented to the Faculty of Humanities President University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for Bachelor Degree in International Relations Concentration in Studies

2018

THESIS ADVISOR RECOMMENDATION LETTER

This undergraduate thesis entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” prepared and submitted by Nisrini Khairani in partial fulfillment of requirements for the Bachelor degree in International Relations in the Faculty of Humanities has been review and found to have satisfied the requirements for a thesis fit to be examined. I therefore recommend this thesis for Oral Defense.

Cikarang, , 7th May 2018

Riski M. Baskoro, S.Sos., MA. Thesis Adviser

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DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY

I declare that this thesis, entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” is to the best of my knowledge and belief, an original piece of work that has not been submitted, either in whole or in part, to another university to obtain a degree.

Cikarang, Indonesia, 7th May 2018

Nisrini Khairani

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PANEL OF EXAMINER APPROVAL SHEET

The Panel of Examiners declare that the thesis entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” that was submitted by Nisrini Khairani majoring in International Relations from the Faculty of Humanity was assessed and approved to have passed the Oral Examinations on May 9th, 2018.

Hendra Manurung, S.IP., MA. Chair – Panel of Examiners

Dr. Endi Haryono, S.IP., M.Si. Examiner

Riski M. Baskoro, S.Sos., MA. Thesis Adviser

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ABSTRACT

Thesis Title: The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen to the World Program towards the United States 2011-2014

The use of food as a symbol of cultural identity is a tool of non-verbal communication that governments can utilize in public diplomacy strategies to promote their country on the global stage. Gastrodiplomacy is increasingly popular branch of cultural diplomacy basically highlights and promotes awareness and understanding of national culinary culture to foreign public. The promotion of national cuisine within gastrodiplomacy is believed to attract the attention of foreign public to assess the nation positively and strengthens relationships between countries. The Thai government initiated the gastrodiplomacy approach through the “Kitchen to the World” program to increase the number of Thai restaurants overseas to promote its culinary heritage as one of the soft power tool, by allowing foreign public to interact directly into their culture by coming to the restaurant and taste the authentic cuisine. The Thai government is implementing Kitchen to the World program all around the world, including to the United States of America. This research uses qualitative method with analytical descriptive approach aimed to see the implementation of Kitchen to the World initiative program taken by Thai government in running Thailand gastrodiplomacy to the United States in the year of 2011-2014. This research found that Thai gastrodiplomacy strategy by strengthening the presence of abroad became a way to enhance Thailand’s reputation and mutual understanding as the establishment of Thai restaurant demand increased each year.

Keyword: Thailand, Soft Power, Public Diplomacy, Cultural Diplomacy, Gastrodiplomacy, Kitchen to the World, Thai cuisine

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ABSTRAK

Judul Skripsi: Pelaksanaan Gastrodiplomasi Thailand melalui Program Kitchen to the World di Amerika Serikat 2011-2014

Penggunaan makanan sebagai lambang identitas budaya merupakan sarana komunikasi non-verbal yang dapat digunakan pemerintah dalam strategi diplomasi publik untuk mempromosikan negaranya di panggung global. Gastrodiplomasi adalah cabang diplomasi budaya yang semakin populer pada dasarnya menyoroti dan mempromosikan kesadaran dan pemahaman tentang budaya kuliner nasional kepada publik asing. Promosi masakan nasional di dalam gastrodiplomasi diyakini mampu menarik perhatian publik bangsa lain dalam menilai suatu bangsa secara positif yang dapat menciptakan dan memperkuat hubungan antar Negara tersebut. Pemerintah Thailand melakukan inisiatif pendekatan gastrodiplomasi melalui program “Kitchen to the World” dengan meningkatkan jumlah restoran Thai diluar negeri untuk mempromosikan warisan kulinernya sebagai alat soft power dengan memberikan kesempatan kepada publik asing untuk berinteraksi secara langsung ke dalam budayanya. Pemerintah secara aktif terlibat dalam kegiatan gastrodiplomasi Thailand dengan mengutamakan “keaslian” dalam ekspor budaya kulinernya di luar negeri. Penelitian ini menggunakan metode kualitatif dengan pendekatan deskriptif analitis bertujuan untuk melihat penerapan dari inisiatif Kitchen to the World program yang digunakan pemerintah Thailand dalam menjalankan gastrodiplomasinya di Amerika Serikat tahun 2011-2014. Penelitian ini menemukan bahwa aktifitas gastrodiplomasi yang dilakukan Thailand dengan memperkuat kehadiran masakan Thailand di Amerika Serikat menjadi cara untuk meningkatkan reputasi Negara Thailand dan sikap saling pengertian dilihat dari permintaan pendirian restoran Thailand yang meningkat setiap tahunnya.

Keyword: Thailand, Soft Power, Diplomasi Publik, Diplomasi Budaya, Gastrodiplomasi, Kitchen to the World, Masakan Thailand

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ACKNOWLEDGMENT

Bismillahirrahmanirrahim, In the name of Allah, the Most Beneficent, the Most Merciful.

Alhamdulillahi Robbil ‘Alamin, all my praises to Allah for the strength, his blessing, peace of my mind, good health, patience and knowledge to completing this research.

This writing becomes a reality with the kind support and help of many people. I would like to extend my sincere thanks to all of them.

My deepest heartfelt appreciation goes to my dear parents who served as my inspiration to pursue this undertaking, Papa Wahyu Kurniawan and Mama Afriyanti. Who sacrificed so much for me to give me the source of strength, financially, morally and spiritually. It may take a lifetime to repay, but I will do anything to make you proud. Perhaps the most important of things to be thankful for, is your unconditional and undying love. To them I dedicate this thesis.

I would also thank to my Grandmother Rosma Suwarto, my Aunty Triyana, My twin sister Nisrina Khairunnisa, my brother Nabil Nugraha and my entire extended family for never-ending support and providing a loving environment for me.

I acknowledge, with deep gratitude and appreciation, the inspiration, encouragement, valuable time and generously providing guidance given to me by my one and only thesis advisor, Mr. Riski Muhammad Baskoro, S. Sos., MA. Thank you for continuously encouraging me and pushing me to my limits to complete my thesis.

For the shoulder to lean on, Novia Sinta Tesalonika my only confidant, also Muhammad Haekal Umri and Akila Paravathi for helping me get through the difficult times, and for all the emotional support, camaraderie, entertainment, and caring they provided since the first day in my university life.

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Wilma Putri Hellena who willingly helped me out with her abilities, how I truly value your help when I faced difficulties in the completion of my thesis. Thank you for the warm encouragement from Sekar Sugihartono and Nisa Nabila who have always been with me for the past year and sparked a new spirit into my life.

I am particularly grateful to have wonderful friends who have helped me through the last few years. Fintania, Logonta Tarigan, Cici Tobing, Evi Soedikto, Kurnia Utami, Ivena Ersandi, Nur Afni Damanik, Jenny Stella, Anky Dirgantara, Jonathan Christoforus and everyone I cannot mention. Thank you for listening, offering me advice, and supporting me through this entire process. I am lucky to have wonderful friends who have helped me through the last few years.

I must thank to the BPPK family in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, especially P3K2 Amerop, particulary Mr. Arsi Dwinugra and Mr. Dea Kurniawan for giving hands on the making of this thesis, motivation and lesson during the time I spent in the office.

Finally, my thanks and appreciations also go to my fellow Presuniv who have fought together to this junction in our life. Thank you to every one that have contributed on my university life, especially International Relations batch 2014 where we encourage and guided each other so we passed the amazing University life.

Last, but certainly not least, this thesis is a form of my passion on culinary as an International Relations student. Besides being a requirement for me to pursue a degree at President University this thesis is also expected to be useful for me and others especially for those who believe in the power of Gastrodiplomacy. The struggle that I face during the completion on my thesis taught me many lessons for the future, it takes time, persistence, and patience to create anything worthwhile.

Cikarang, 7th May 2018

Nisrini Khairani

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

THESIS ADVISOR RECOMMENDATION LETTER ...... ii DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY ...... iii PANEL OF EXAMINER APPROVAL SHEET ...... iv ABSTRACT ...... v ABSTRAK ...... vi ACKNOWLEDGMENT ...... vii LIST OF FIGURE ...... xi LIST OF TABLE ...... xii CHAPTER I ...... 1 INTRODUCTION ...... 1 I.1. Background of Study ...... 1 I.2 Problem Identification ...... 8 I.3 Statement of Problem ...... 10 I.4 Research Objective ...... 10 I.5 Significance of Study ...... 10 I.6 Theoretical Framework ...... 11 I.6.1 Soft Power...... 11 I.6.2 Public Diplomacy ...... 12 I.6.3 Cultural Diplomacy ...... 13 I.6.4 Gastrodiplomacy ...... 15 I.7 Scope and Limitations of Study ...... 20 I.8 Research Methodology ...... 21 I.9 Research Instrument ...... 21 I.10 Structure of Thesis ...... 23 CHAPTER II ...... 24 LITERATURE REVIEW ...... 24 II.1 Joseph Nye (2004) “Soft Power the Means to Success in World Politics”, Public Affairs...... 24 II.2 Mark Leonard with Catherine Stead and Conrad Smewing (2002), Public Diplomacy ...... 26 II.3 Carole Rosestein (2008) “Cultural Policy and Political Nature of Culture” ...... 28 II.4 Public Diplomacy Magazine, Winter 2014 Issue: Gastrodiplomacy ...... 29 II.5 Sam Chapple-Sokol (2012) “Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds” ...... 31

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II.6 Juyan Zhang (2015) The Foods of the Worlds: Mapping and Comparing Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaign ...... 32 II.7 Mark Padoongpatt (2017) “Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America” ...... 33 CHAPTER III ...... 35 THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD ...... 35 III.1 Introduction to Thai Cuisine ...... 36 III.1.1 The History of Thai Cuisine ...... 36 III.1.2 The Globalization of Thai Food and Cuisine ...... 39 III.2 The “Kitchen to the World” Program under Yingluck Administration 2011- 2014...... 42 III.3 Kitchen to the World as Thailand Gastrodiplomacy ...... 45 III.3.1 Parties Supporting Thailand Food Industry ...... 48 III.4 Kitchen to the World in the United States ...... 52 III.5 Maintaining the Authenticity of Thai Cuisine to Promote Thailand Identity ...... 54 III.5.1 Serving Thai Food and Cuisine in the United States ...... 56 III.5.2 Maintaining Authenticity by “Thai Select”...... 58 III.6 The Kitchen to the World Program and Americans Eating Habit ...... 64 CHAPTER IV ...... 67 THE IMPLEMENTATION OF KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM IN THE UNITED STATES ...... 67 IV.1 Food and Diplomacy ...... 67 IV.2 Government Strategy’s to Promote Thailand as the Kitchen of the World 2011-2014 ...... 71 IV.2.1 Thai Cooking Tour and School ...... 72 IV.2.2 Thai Select Award and the Establishment of Thai Restaurant in the United States ...... 75 IV. 3 Promote Thai Cuisine and Culture in the United States ...... 80 IV.4 The Analysis of Kitchen to The World Implementation in the United States of America 2011 – 2014 ...... 87 CHAPTER V ...... 94 CONCLUSION ...... 94 BIBLIOGRAPHY ...... 97 APPENDIX ...... 104

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LIST OF FIGURE

CHAPTER I Figure 1.1 Research Framework of the Theory constructed by the writer 16 Figure 1.2 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer 17

CHAPTER III Figure 3.1 Kitchen of the World logo 45 Figure 3.2 Thailand Thai Food and American Thai Food 57 Figure 3.3 Thai Select Premium and Thai Select logo 59 Figure 3.4 Authentic Thai Restaurant Service 61 Figure 3.5 Authentic Thai restaurant interior design 61 Figure 3.6 Traditional Performance in the Thai Restaurant 61

CHAPTER IV Figure 4.1 Former PM Yingluck awarded “Thai Select” certification to the 74 Thai restaurateurs Figure 4.2 Thai Select restaurant growth graphic 75 Figure 4.3 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States 76 Figure 4.4 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer 84

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LIST OF TABLE

CHAPTER IV

Table 4.1 Thai Cooking School and Courses in the United States 71 Table 4.2 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States 75 Table 4.3 Thailand Kitchen of the World promotion events in 2011-2014 78

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CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

I.1. Background of Study

Maintaining international relations is an important factor for fostering mutual understanding among nations, working together to achieve the nation’s interests and creating prosperity of the nation. The post-cold war era has given more dimensions to international realm, which can be seen through the expanded actors within the practice of international relations. 1 Aware of the existence of non-state actors in international relations, countries then have to provide different approaches to engage with various actors. Engaging with varies of actors itself is needed to support the achievement of national interest. Soft power then becomes an important factor for countries to approach non-state actors since it is believed that the use of hard power is not suitable for this attempt. The use of attraction through a country’s soft power is believed to be more effective to approach those actors compared to the use of coercion and inducement through hard power that is also identic with economic and military might.2

As Joseph Nye wrote on his book Soft power: The means to success in world politics, he defined soft power as "The ability to have an impact on the behavior of other actors - to affect the opportunities available to others and their willingness to choose particular courses of action."3 There are three sources of soft power which are culture when it is attractive to others, political values which is getting lived up by

1 Wadlow, R. (n.d.). Reviewed Work: Non-state Actors in International Relations by Bas Arts, Math. International Journal on World Peace, 19(3), 97–100. 2 Nye, J. S. (2004). Soft power: The means to success in world politics. New York: Public Affairs. 3 Ibid.,

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the people domestically and abroad, and the other one is foreign policies there are seen to be legitimate.4 Soft power definition can be concluded as a superior national resource as the ability of the state that can be used to influence other countries in order to achieve the desired results or interests. Soft power is applied as a foreign policy instrument that is run by a state.

In adapting to international dynamics, a state will continuously conduct diplomacy to maintain relationship towards other countries. Diplomacy is usually associated with a peace mission, in addition diplomacy is also used as a means in promoting important sectors of a country to achieve the national interest through public diplomacy at the international level. Public diplomacy is a form of diplomacy that changes and evolves along with the development of increasingly complex international relations.5 The term of public diplomacy was first coined in 1965 by Edmund Gullion as an interaction by the government and interest groups by promoting soft power sources aimed in shaping public opinion in order to generate awareness or create a positive nation image.6

In addition, that may have been regarded of a culture as only a complement, but actually might be very powerful and potentially affects many people in the simplest way; i.e. using food. Closely linked to culture, food that is considered as "the oldest diplomatic instrument"7, it has been used by many countries to create a cross- cultural understanding, which aims to enhance interaction and cooperation in

4 Nye, J. S. (2008). “Public Diplomacy and Soft Power.” The Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science doi:10.1177/0002716207311699. 5 Szondi, G. (2008). Public Diplomacy and Nation Branding: Conceptual Similarities and Differences. Discussion Papers in Diplomacy. Netherlands Institute of International Relations ‘Clingendael’ 6 "Public Diplomacy" Before Gullion: The Evolution of a Phrase | USC Center on Public Diplomacy. (2006, June 9). Retrieved from https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/blog/public-diplomacy-gullion- evolution-phrase

7 Mentioned by Hillary Clinton, former Secretary of State, Senator of New York State

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international relations.8 Food has the ability in representing the history, traditions and culture of a country, as Brillat-Savarin said, national cuisine is an important way in which countries can define themselves. On his famous quotation, Brillat-Savarin stated that “The destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they are fed. Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are”.9

The widening role of food utilization in diplomacy gave birth to the term Gastrodiplomacy. It first appeared in The Economist article in 2002 which contains a systematic Thai government policy to present Thai restaurants all around the world, the government also claims that the international community has an interest in the taste of the country. 10 Since then, gastrodiplomacy became a phenomenon that develops in international relations. It is called gastrodiplomacy when diplomacy combines with ethnic food of a nation intended to invite foreign audience to taste and consume the cuisine as part of their life.11 In a simple definition, Paul Rockower believe that gastrodiplomacy is “the act of winning hearts and mind through stomach”.12 A nation cuisine becomes a mean to implement public diplomacy and cultural diplomacy for highlighting the unique agricultural, culinary heritage, cultural traditions, and national brand of the nation.13 It is a more effective way of becoming an intermediary of non-verbal communication that can unite all dimension of

8 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183. Retrieved from http://culinarydiplomacy.com/wp- content/uploads/2013/09/breaking-bread-to-win-hearts-and-minds.pdf 9 Ibid., 10 Food as : Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from https://www.economist.com/node/999687 11 Rockower, P. S. (2012). Recipes for gastrodiplomacy. Place Branding and Public Diplomacy, 8(3), 235-246. Retrieved from https://doi.org/10.1057/pb.2012.17 12 Ibid., 13 TEDx Talks. (2014, February 18). Food is not only culture, it's diplomacy: Leah Selim at TEDxGowanus [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eyROTdBUs4

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community, it can provide many important roles in connecting people-to-people, as well as state-to-public.14

Gastrodiplomacy is an official activity organized by the government of a country that includes the exchange of food culture between individuals, either through migrant ethnic restaurant around the globe. 15 Gastrodiplomacy should be easily accessible and rely on the world community because it is important for cultural exchange in globalized world and it has a more real impact in daily life. Gastrodiplomacy is expected to create a better image of a country and might be able to strengthen the identity of the nation in international relations.

Thailand is the first nation which discovered its potential in gastrodiplomacy and introduce it to the global stage since 2002 by using the restaurant as the pioneer in cultural diplomacy. 16 The success of Thai government implements its gastrodiplomacy is followed by other countries such as , , , , and the United States. Japan’s UNESCO Washoku campaign has launched in 2013 well known with its Sushi Diplomacy17, Peru with Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo and the program aims to register the cuisine and culture of Peru to UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity to be recognized by the world community.18 South Korea with to the World in 2009 and it seriously promotes kimchi to the whole world19, Malaysia with Malaysian Kitchen for The World campaign in 2010, Taiwan government initiate the All in Good Taste:

14 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf 15 Badan Pengkajian dan Pengembangan Kebijakan. (2016). Gastrodiplomasi Sebagai Penjuru Diplomacy Ekonomi Indonesia. Kementerian Luar Negeri Republik Indonesia. 16 Rockower, P. S. (2011). The Gastrodiplomacy Cookbook. Retrieved from https://www.huffingtonpost.com/paul-rockower/the-gastrodiplomacy-cookb_b_716555.html 17 Bestor, T. C. (2014). Most F(l)avored Nation Status: The Gastrodiplomacy of Japan’s Global Promotion of Cuisine | Public Diplomacy Magazine. Retrieved from http://www.publicdiplomacymagazine.com/most-flavored-nation-status-the-gastrodiplomacy-of- -global-promotion-of-cuisine/ 18 Wilson, R. (2013). Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo: Gastrodiplomacy, the Culinary Nation Brand, and the Context of National Cuisine in Peru. Exchange: The Journal of Diplomacy, 2(1), 13-20. Retrieved from https://surface.syr.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1014&context=exchange 19 Ibid.,

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Savor and Flavors of Taiwan but better known as Dim Sum Diplomacy since 2010 as the President Ma Ying-jeou said “taking Taiwan’s food to the world” 20, and the United States government officially launched their program in 2012 named Culinary Diplomacy Partnership Initiative, as well as with its global campaign There’s Nothing Like Australia include the gastrodiplomacy program Restaurant Australia in 2014 aims to promote its cuisine at 12 international markets.21

Thailand gastrodiplomacy program first launched in 2002 which was initiated and supported under prior Thai Prime Minister who pay attention to the country’s competitiveness ranking.22 The program named “Global Thai” was aimed to increase the number of restaurants in a year, then in October 2003 the government launched “Thailand Kitchen of the World” in order to further promote Thai cuisine abroad with a wider scope.23 By continuing the previous policy, the Thai government under Prime Minister has a policy to promote the "Kitchen to the World” program by supporting Thai restaurant entrepreneurs abroad while opened the door to the export of raw materials and Thai food product, which aims for Thailand to be a major food exporter, and raising awareness of food security under changing world condition that may lead to food shortage.24 The government’s first step was through establishing Thai restaurants as much as possible in all over the world to encourage more people to eat authentic Thai cuisine.25 An eBook published to promote the Thailand: Kitchen to the World program states the following:

20 Booth, R. (2017, November 26). Taiwan launches 'gastro-diplomacy' drive. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/world/2010/aug/08/taiwan-launches-gasto-diplomacy-drive

21 There's Nothing Like Australia - Corporate - Tourism Australia. Retrieved from http://www.tourism.australia.com/en/about/our-campaigns/theres-nothing-like-australia.html 22 Andrews, T. G., & Sununta, S. (2009). The changing face of management in Thailand. Milton Park, Abingdon: Routledge. 23 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php

24 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 25 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

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“Thai cuisine from the past to the present is a proud heritage of the that they believe is second to none, and it has been handed down through generations. At the same time, Thai food and Thai cooking reflect the wisdom and culture of the Thai nation. Today, Thai food and Thai cuisine stand ready to make Thailand a proud Kitchen of the World”.26

In the first year of the program there were 5500 Thai restaurants around the world, with an ambition, Thai government initiative wanting to raise the number to 8000 restaurants in 2003.27 Currently there are approximately 20,000 Thai restaurants in every corner of the globe.28 This rapid increase is achieved by various strategies, run in parallel by various ministries, government departments and collaborations with private sectors.29 EXIM supported with an annual budget of 500 million Bath to support Thai investors who intend to open Thai restaurants in foreign countries.30 To maintain the authenticity of Thai cuisine at least 60%, the Royal Thai government, Ministry of Commerce established “Thai Select” as identification certificate program which encouraged foreign audiences awareness towards authentic Thai cuisine.31 Moreover, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Commerce, the Ministry of Labour, , the Tourism Authority of Thailand, the Ministry of Industry, Kasetsart University, the Thailand National Food Institute and many more are also involved in encouraging Thai food globalization overseas by provides professional Thai cooks and entrepreneurship training, conducting Thai food festival overseas,

26 Ibid 27 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department,. “Thai Restaurants All Over the World. (2006, July 26) Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/. 28 http://thaiembdc.org/2017/10/24/fifty-percent-of-thai-restaurants-are-in-the-us-and-canada/ 29 Thai Food To World. Government Project. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php?&language=EN 30 Thai Food To World. Financial Loan. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/financial-detail.php?cms_id=8 31 Thai Select. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=policy

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monitoring and coordinating Thai restaurants overseas, inspecting exports and be the mediator on any agreement between related countries.32

Aims set out by Thai government from the Kitchen to the World program are:33

 To support the increase of Thai restaurant business overseas with the real Thailand's high standard of service and tastes.  Making Thai restaurant as a leading substation and information center for foreign public as well as marketing ”One One Product”  Thailand to become one of the world's leading food exporters with the highest credibility and competitive prices  To promote more export of raw materials and additional ingredients for Thai recipes

Thai restaurants abroad were originally established to accommodate Thai migrants and bring them closer to home. Thai migrants needed a way to make money and opened a restaurant. At first, they catered to people in their own community and apparently, most customers not only Thais, but also the western find out how good the food was and consume Thai food and cuisine on as regular basis.34 This is one of the factors that driving the government's initiative to undertake gastronomic approaches at the global level.

Thailand government have been continuously implement the kitchen to the world program in various countries all around the world. The United States (US), is not an exception. Relations between Thailand and US as diplomatic partners have been established since early 19th century.35 Both countries have fought shoulder to shoulder in every major conflict since World War II. As the first ally in Southeast

32 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php

33 Ibid., 34 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press.

35 Ibid.,

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Asia, Thailand became the prime base of the United States during War, also a prime Rest & Recuperation hub for American soldiers.36 Up into recent times, Thai and US developed close relations and redefined their partnership to meet modern global challenges.37 The cooperation between these countries took place in various fields such as military, economy, trade, science and technology. In economic, the main bilateral arrangement is Treaty of Amity and Economic Relations signed in 1966 which regulates the ease of Thai and US economic access.38

The close relationship between Thailand and US has brought Thai people to migrate to US especially to Los Angeles and bring ethnic cuisine across the continent. 39 Thai cuisine is one of the Asian cuisines that has attracted many Americans. 40 The government saw it as one of the opportunities to develop gastrodiplomacy to the US. The Thai government looks at the popularity of Thai cuisine in Los Angeles before developing the political economy program. 41 As a testing site of Kitchen of the World, the response of the food festivals and Thai restaurants in LA has provided intuitive and anecdotal evidence to the Thai government about the potential of Thai cuisine to succeed in the United States and worldwide.42

I.2 Problem Identification Thailand is a rich country with various unique traditions, cultural heritages and plenty of natural resources. Food is the face of Thailand, the cuisine relies on

36 Ibid., 37 Tow, W. T., & Stuart, D. (2014). The New US Strategy Towards : Adapting to the American Pivot. Routledge Security in Asia Pacific Series. 38 Thailand US Amity Treaty. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thailawforum.com/database1/amity.html 39 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian Studies Conference, York University, Toronto.

40 Ibid., 41 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press.

42 Ibid.,

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herbs and spices to give a varied in appearance, aroma, color and tastes. Prime Minister Yingluck stated that the Thai people are proud of the rich tradition and popularity of Thai cuisine on a global level. The popularity of Thai cuisine in America is utilized by the Thai government as an opportunity to hold public diplomacy to enhance the competitiveness of the country.

The gastrodiplomacy program presents as one of the instruments of public diplomacy conducted by Thailand government in shaping the country's image, greater recognition and enhanced economic cooperation. Beginning with the Global Thai program in 2002, the government tried to design several programs to introduce Thai cuisine to be recognized by the world community to get the image as a country with a wealth of diverse culinary. This effort continues with the Kitchen to the World policy under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra as a form of sustainability of the gastrodiplomacy efforts undertaken.

Thailand has implement its gastrodiplomacy in various of countries including United States. Thai gastrodiplomacy program implemented in the US can be assumed to have a positive result, this can be seen from the Thai restaurant industry that has exploded in large numbers in a short time in US. The beginning of 1990s there were around 200 Thai restaurants located only in Los Angeles to accommodate Thai immigrants and to bring them closer to home.43 By the end of 2017 there are 5,269 Thai restaurants all over the USA. 44 Although Thailand is facing political instability, the government initiative in cultural diplomacy lives on. The popularity of Thai cuisine has created a significant identity for Thailand, Thai cuisine has the potential to promote its soft power. Thus, gastrodiplomacy activities can enhance the positive image of Thailand through its cuisine uniqueness so that it plays an important role to promote awareness and understanding of Thai cuisine culture.

43 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's: Thai cuisine in transition. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. 44 Thai Restaurant Index - ThaiCuisine.com. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://thaicuisine.com/list.html

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The objectives of this research are to study and analyze the implementation of Kitchen to the World policy limited to 2014 and started from 2011 which was the launch time of this program under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra. Here will be seen from the time range what efforts have been done by Thailand in the implementation of the program, especially in the United States. Furthermore, this research also aims to analyze how Thai cuisine used as a soft power tool has the possibility to enhance Thailand reputation in the United States. Therefore, this thesis is entitled “The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen to the World Program towards the United States 2011-2014”

I.3 Statement of Problem Based on the explanation of the background of the problem, then can be drawn the following problem question:

“How was the implementation of Thailand gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen of the World program in the United States on the period of 2011 - 2014? ”

I.4 Research Objective  To know Thai gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen of the World program that conducted by Thai government  To examine the implementation of Thai gastrodiplomacy in the United States

I.5 Significance of Study  Contributing in the study of International Relations related to gastrodiplomacy which is a new study in IR, especially those implemented by Thailand  Highlight of the use of nation cuisine as Thailand’s cultural heritage as one of the effective tools to promote the country

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I.6 Theoretical Framework In answering the question, the writer uses four concepts to discover, describe and explain the object of research as well as being point of view of the research. The concepts are Soft Power, Public Diplomacy, Cultural Diplomacy and Gastrodiplomacy. The theory's approach is relevant to explain how Thailand is using the Kitchen of The World program in an effort to build a culinary image of Thailand.

I.6.1 Soft Power

The concept of soft power was first introduced by Joseph S, Nye an American political scientist of Harvard University in 1990. The concept of power or sometimes called co-optive power itself according to Nye is “the ability to attract or repel other actors to want what you want”. 45 This applies in the context of the current diplomacy which prioritizes non-state actors in negotiating with others to get the desired interest as well as the absence of violence and coercion. Can be seen in the activities as seen in the form of public diplomacy, , cultural diplomacy, sports diplomacy and gastrodiplomacy.

According to Nye, the use of soft power can be used in capacities that cannot be identified by hard power. What Nye means is that when the era of globalization is very easy to touch the level of society using a communication strategy (example: the internet). Soft power can also build peace relations between countries. Many times, though not always, which serve as identifiers to designate the uniqueness of a particular place is the culinary of the area. For example, Thailand identic with Tom Yam, South Korea is identical with Kimchi, Taiwan identic with Dim Sum and so on. This means that food is one way to look at cultural identity. Kitchen of the World is one form of soft power owned by the Thai government. Where through its gastrodiplomacy program invites foreign public to get tasting and

45 Nye, J. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: PublicAffairs.

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recognize the Thai cuisine by coming to Thai ethnic restaurants and indirectly make the global community want to come directly to Thailand to witness the unique and diverse .

I.6.2 Public Diplomacy The term of Public Diplomacy was first coined in 1965 by Dean Edmund Gullion of Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy, Tufts University. He defines public diplomacy as follows:

"the influence of public attitudes on the formation and execution of foreign policies. It encompasses dimensions of international relations beyond traditional diplomacy (including) the cultivation by governments of public opinion in other countries; the interaction of private groups and interests in one country with those of another (and) the transnational flow of information and ideas.46

According to the US Department of State, public diplomacy is a government- sponsored program intended to inform or influence public opinion in other countries through publication, films, cultural exchange, radio, television, etc. 47 In general, public diplomacy is defined as an activity of communication relations that occurs between the government and the foreign public. The relationship through public diplomacy is then expected to create a good environment for people across countries to work together and promote the growth of transactions between them. Public diplomacy is a method to improve soft power and the interests of a country as soft power itself gives a significant influence on the diplomatic achievements of a

46 Cull, N. J. (2006, June 9). "Public Diplomacy" Before Gullion: The Evolution of a Phrase | USC Center on Public Diplomacy. Retrieved from https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/blog/public-diplomacy- gullion-evolution-phrase 47 U.S. Department of State, Dictionary of International Relations Terms, 1987, p. 85

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country.48 In his writing, Jay Wang sees public diplomacy as a country's endeavor to improve the quality of communication between the state and society in which the implementation of public diplomacy does not make the government a single actor, but also with community participation the country concerned.49

By shaping the perceptions of others (tends to be related to intangible assets) such as cultures, interesting personalities of a country, and political and policy values that have moral authority. The main purpose of this diplomacy is to generate interest and also mutual respect between countries. 50 Public diplomacy conducted by Thailand is government-sponsored program which is intended to influence public opinion in other countries related to Thailand's own image. The main instrument used by the Thai government in this research is the use of Gastrodiplomacy as a cultural exchange.

I.6.3 Cultural Diplomacy Culture in the study of social science is often identified with the values of tradition, customs and characters of society that then form the civilization. Cultural diplomacy is a diplomacy that utilizes the cultural aspect to meet its national interests in the international community. This is the way a country demonstrates the degree of civilization of a nation to influence or improve the attitudes and opinion of the foreign community towards a country. The concept of cultural diplomacy is the use of a country's culture by exchanging ideas, information, art, to influence or inspire the international community and foster a mutual understanding. Milton C. argues that ‘ it can also be more of a one-way street than a two-way exchange, as when one nation concentrates

48 Dewangga, T. A. (2017). Meningkatkan Branding Negara Melalui “Gastro Diplomacy”. Retrieved from http://setkab.go.id/meningkatkan-branding-negara-melalui-gastro-diplomacy/ 49 Wang, J. (2006). Public Diplomacy and Global Business. Journal of Business Strategy, 27(3), 41-49. doi:10.1108/02756660610663826 50 Taylor, H. (2007). The Not-So-Black Art of Public Diplomacy. World Policy Journal, 24(4), 51-59. doi:10.1162/wopj.2008.24.4.51

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its efforts on promoting the national language, explaining its policies and point of view, or “telling its story” to the rest of the world.51 Furthermore, as stated by Erik Pajtinca in his journal “aimed at the promotion of foreign policy interests of this state in the realm of cultural policy primarily by means of fostering its cultural exchange with other (foreign) states”52 Basically, cultural diplomacy is a process of approach, relationship building and increase mutual understanding.53 The term culture itself has such a broad aspect, such as history, languages, customs, traditions, music, lifestyle, literature and social relationships. But cultural diplomacy is not always about ancient or traditional cultures because cultural diplomacy is an effort undertaken by a country in an effort through cultural expression including utilization of ideological, technological, political, economic, military, educational, socio-cultural and other fields that attract and enjoyed by foreign audiences.54 Actors in cultural diplomacy are varies, although it is the government that leads the initiative, cultural diplomacy not only done by government agencies and private sector which is officially under the coordination of the Department of Foreign Affairs, it can also be conducted by other government agencies, private institutions, and even by individuals such as scholars, art performer, chef, academics, students, etc.55 Cultural diplomacy can overcome differences in policy between countries and another and form a neutral platform for interpersonal relations. When diplomatic

51 Cummings, M. C. (2003). Cultural diplomacy and the United States government: A survey. Washington: Center for arts and culture. 52 Pajtinka, E. (2014). Cultural Diplomacy in Theory and Practice in Contemporary International Relations. POLITICKÉ VEDY. Retrieved from http://www.politickevedy.fpvmv.umb.sk/userfiles/file/4_2014/PAJTINKA2.pdf 53 Rosendorf, N. M. (2009). Chapter Nine A cultural public diplomacy strategy. In Toward a new public diplomacy: Redirecting U.S. foreign policy (p. 173). New York, NY: Palgrave MacMillan. 54 Mark, S. (2014). A Greater Role for Cultural Diplomacy. Discussion Papers in Diplomacy. Retrieved from Netherlands Institute of International Relations ‘Clingendael’

55 Ibid.,

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relations are being disrupted, then cultural diplomacy acts as a flexible and acceptable means to all parties.56

I.6.4 Gastrodiplomacy Basically, gastrodiplomacy is a form of public diplomacy that combines cultural diplomacy, culinary, and nation branding. It is one of nation’s effort to communicate with the foreign public by offering culinary heritage and tradition. This activity is sponsored by the state government through campaigns and activities abroad that work together with non-state actors such as government agency, private stakeholders, individuals and societies like chef or diaspora. The terminology of gastrodiplomacy is a new phenomenon that is developing in the field of International Relations. This term is expressed from The Economist magazine in 2002 and popularized by Paul Rockower, a gastronomist graduated from Southern California University and a leading expert in the burgeoning public diplomacy field of gastrodiplomacy.57

Gastrodiplomacy on restriction is the use of food in international relations to create peace and cultural understanding. 58 Rockower believe that gastrodiplomacy is “the act of winning hearts and minds through stomach indirect emotional connection”59 On the other hand, Samuel Chapple Sokol believes that the use of cuisine as an instrument for creating cross-cultural understanding aims to enhance

56 Arndt, R. T. (2011). The First Resort of Kings: American Cultural Diplomacy in the Twentieth Century. Herndon: Potomac Books.

57 Paul Rockower | USC Center on Public Diplomacy. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/users/paul_rockower 58 Bradley, C. (2014). Gastrodiplomacy: Eating for Understanding – Food Politics Field Notes. Retrieved from http://foodfieldnotes.uoregon.edu/article/gastrodiplomacy-eating-for-understanding/ 59 Rockower, P. S. (2011). Projecting Taiwan: Taiwan’s public diplomacy outreach. Issues and Studies, 43(1), 107-152.

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interaction and cooperation. Not only interaction between government to government at the high level but also government to public.60

In practice, gastrodiplomacy done by sharing cultures between countries through food. Gastrodiplomacy offers the opportunity to engage in the culture of a country through food to the foreign public from long distance. As Rockower wrote on the journal Recipes for Gastrodiplomacy that “Gastrodiplomacy helps familiarize the foreign public especially for certain publics who are more reluctant to travel”.61 Through gastrodiplomacy foreign public can learn new cultures from the other side of the world through culinary experiences.

Gastrodiplomacy is considered a popular strategy for public diplomacy and nation branding. 62 Gastrodiplomacy is about how a country conducts cultural diplomacy by promoting the distinctive cuisine, so as to raise public awareness of the nation-brand of a country, as well as assisting foreign public.

Gastrodiplomacy itself has characteristics that determine whether the process belongs to gastrodiplomacy or not. The character of the gastrodiplomacy according to Rokcower's view is as follows:63

a. Communicate about culinary culture with foreign public in a broader way, more than high-level elites. b. Enhance the nation brand through cultural diplomacy by creating awareness and understanding of foreign public towards national culinary culture c. Transcends the realm of state-to-public communication and increasingly includes people-to-people engagement,

60 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183. 61 Rockower, P. S. (2012). Recipes for gastrodiplomacy. Place Branding and Public Diplomacy, 8(3), 235-246.

62 Ibid., 63 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20.

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Thailand Kitchen of the World seeks to improve the national image by using food as a tool to change public perception and promote itself on the global stage. While there are many ways for a nation to define and visualize its identity, food is one of the most obvious instruments in reinforcing a country's identity. The government uses food as part of a strategy of broader cultural diplomacy. This strategy seeks to export its ethnic food and ingredients and culture to a wider world in the form of national cuisine.64

In this research, the writer will use research framework as;

Figure 1.1 Research Framework of the Theory constructed by the writer

64 Wilson, R. (2013). Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo: Gastrodiplomacy, the Culinary Nation Brand, and the Context of National Cuisine in Peru. Exchange: The Journal of Diplomacy, 2(1), 13-20.

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Figure 1.2 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer

In analyzing how the gastrodiplomacy efforts conducted by the Thai government in introducing Thai food as part of its country identity is an instrument of soft power owned by Thailand. Then, writer will use the concept of public diplomacy which, according to Jay Wang as a form of government communication of a state by involving non-state actors to foreign communities in order to invite foreign communities to be attracted to the culture of a country.65 Thailand as a middle-power country, the Thai government is keenly aware of winning the hearts and minds of the

65 Wang, J. (2006). Public Diplomacy and Global Business. Journal of Business Strategy, 27(3), 41- 49.

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public by exploiting its cultural wealth. The use of food as an instrument of cultural diplomacy is believed to enhance the intercultural communication of people in the world. The relationship between public diplomacy and cultural diplomacy is linked in the concept of soft power. In particular, the significance of public diplomacy since soft power grows out of culture, domestic values and policies as well as foreign policy.66 It is critical to be aware of how soft power can be used as a means of public diplomacy. Furthermore, the concept of cultural diplomacy itself has become a linchpin of public diplomacy.67 Based on the use of national cuisine as a means of communication to foreign public in Thai government policy the writer uses the concept of Gastrodiplomacy. Gastrodiplomacy itself has characteristics that determine whether the process belongs to gastrodiplomacy or not. The character of the gastrodiplomacy according to Rokcower's view is as follows:68

a. gastrodiplomacy is a public diplomacy effort that tries to communicate about culinary culture with foreign public in a broader way, more than high-level elites. b. The practice of gastrodiplomacy seeks to enhance the nation brand through cultural diplomacy by creating awareness and understanding of foreign public towards national culinary culture c. Gastrodiplomacy as public diplomacy in the globalization era beyond state-to- public relations and increasingly includes people-to-people engagement

In summary, if sorted backward from Gastrodiplomacy concept, in the journal of Riski Baskoro believed that this concept is part of cultural diplomacy, as cultural

66 Kim, H. (2017). Bridging the Theoretical Gap between Public Diplomacy and Cultural Diplomacy. The Korean Journal of International Studies, 15(1). 67 Cultural Diplomacy the Linchpin of Public Diplomacy. (2005). Retrieved from Report of the Advisory Committeeon Cultural Diplomacy website: https://www.state.gov/documents/organization/54374.pdf 68 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20.

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diplomacy is considered as a sub of public diplomacy. 69 Then the three concepts connected to the soft power of a nation. By using these concepts, the authors will see the activities that have been carried out by the Thai government and non-state actors in the implementation of gastrodiplomacy efforts in introducing Thai cuisine to the world as seen from the years 2011 to 2014 under the leadership of Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra.

I.7 Scope and Limitations of Study The scope and limitation of this research will be based on the use of food in the form of public diplomacy efforts conducted by Royal Thai government through the gastrodiplomacy strategy “Kitchen to the World” in promoting the cuisine culture in the global stage. Therefore, in order to topics that will be analyze can be more specific need to explain some limitations that will show the significance of the problem.

This research will explore what forms of gastrodiplomacy activities have been done by the Thai government. The writer takes restrictions from 2011 to 2014, this limitation is taken based on the inauguration of Kitchen to the World policy under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra in 2011 as a continuation of Thailand's gastrodiplomacy program which began in 2002 as an effort in disseminating Thai cuisine through the establishment of restaurants abroad and maintain the authenticity of cuisine that served all over the world, especially the United States. Furthermore, the study will explore the gastrodiplomacy efforts undertaken by Thai governments abroad in cooperation with non-state actors through the marketing of food products, the organization of events, cooking school and education, etc. These limits will help explain how was the implementation of Kitchen to the World as the gastrodiplomacy program to promote Thai cuisine in the United States on the period of 2011 – 2014.

69 Baskoro, R. M. (2017). Konseptualisasi dalam Gastro Diplomasi: Sebuah Diskusi Kontemporer dalam Hubungan Internasional. Jurnal INSIGNA, 4, 35-48. Retrieved from http://jos.unsoed.ac.id/index.php/insignia/article/download/666/496/

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I.8 Research Methodology In this analysis, the writer used qualitative methodology. Defensively, Bodgan and Taylor explain that qualitative methodology is a methodological form that has descriptive data output based on written or oral words of the observed object. Besides, Kirk and Miller also explained that qualitative research is a form of research that depends on human observation which will be termed its own terminology.

The research method used by writer in getting and describing data that is using descriptive research method. The existing data collected from the literature and articles that exist in journals and other scientific publications, both in print and electronic form such as e-books and websites that serve as the main source in looking at the issues raised. The author will also conduct online interviews with stakeholders such as government offices on issues raised to obtain additional data. In other words, qualitative methodology is a methodology that can be applied in a descriptive output in a scientific study.

Later that will be seen here is a form of gastrodiplomacy strategy implemented by the Thai government in globalize the Thai Cuisine to change the perception of the world. Then the form of strategy that has been applied will be analyzed using a public diplomacy approach, where this approach sees that gastrodiplomacy is one form of public diplomacy.

I.9 Research Instrument

I.9.1 Book

The writer uses several books to further understand in detail the theoretical framework in terms of soft power, public diplomacy, cultural diplomacy. Moreover, the writer also uses a book that discusses the development of Thai cuisine in the US.

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I.9.2 Academic Journal and Article

Gastrodiplomacy studies still relatively new in international relations, there are not many books on gastrodiplomacy. However, the writer found several academic journals related to gastrodiplomacy study that can be used as a guide in conducting research. Those academic journals help the writer gain more understanding and different idea opinion to see gastrodiplomacy from wider side.

I.9.3 Media Online

Advances in technology has been able to answer the various needs of today's society. Online media such as the Internet as one of the most useful medium for writers in the search for various information, ranging from theoretical information, primary data or secondary data for research needs. Internet provide information from many official website, document and reports. Some resources that used for this research are;

a) The Thai Government Public Relations Department http://thailand.prd.go.th b) Thailand Gastrodiplomacy, Kitchen of the World E-book http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html c) Royal Thai Embassy official website http://thaiembdc.org/ d) The Department of International Trade Promotion and Thai Select http://www.thaiselect.com

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I.10 Structure of Thesis CHAPTER I Chapter I is the introductory chapter that will discuss the background of study, identification of the problem, statement of the problem, determine the research objectives, significance of study and describe the theoretical framework that used in this writing.

CHAPTER II Chapter will contain literature review of the main sources that will help the writer on doing the research. A summary of books, journals, articles related to the topic of this thesis will be reviewed in this chapter. The writer will use sources related to public diplomacy, gastrodiplomacy program and Thailand tourism to support the writer on finishing the research.

CHAPTER III Chapter III contains an overview of the gastrodiplomacy program that implement by Thailand government through Kitchen to the World program that contains a brief description and information about the profile of Kitchen of the World. Moreover, this chapter also contains the history between Thailand and US bilateral relations and brief explanation about how Thai cuisine can be accepted by American citizens.

CHAPTER IV This chapter will explain the writer's analysis in view of Thailand's public diplomacy efforts to globalize Thai Cuisine that has persisted until 2014. This chapter will also include data and findings that have been researched to see the efforts that have been made by the Thai government.

CHAPTER V Chapter V will contain the conclusions of the study and end with a recommendation from the writer.

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CHAPTER II

LITERATURE REVIEW

In conducting this research, the writer has tried to find some reliable references as the guidance and comparison in view of existing problems. The writer will review the sources such as books, journals, academic articles, publications, reports that the writer uses according to the topic of research. The writer will summarize and review things which is important for the writer to be the source of this research. Some of these references include:

II.1 Joseph Nye (2004) “Soft Power the Means to Success in World Politics”, Public Affairs Joseph S. Nye Jr. is a former US political scientist, professor and former dean of the Kennedy School of Government, Harvard University.70 The concept of soft power began popularized by Nye since 1980, but in his book Soft Power: The Means to Success in Worlds Politics (2004), Nye began to explore in detail and redefine his soft power concept. Through this book Nye defines soft power as the ability attract or co-opting the other nations to share its objectives or desired outcomes. Nye also stressed that soft power is more using Attraction than Coercion and Payment. Soft Power's definition according to Nye is:

“Soft power is the ability to get what you want through attraction rather than coercion or payments. It arises from the attractiveness of a country’s culture, political ideals and policies” 71

70 Joseph Nye | Harvard Kennedy School. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.hks.harvard.edu/faculty/joseph-nye 71 Nye, J. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: PublicAffairs.

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In his book, Nye argues that soft power depends on the ability of the state to organize the political agenda in a way that can be preference for other countries. One way to give preference to other countries is through attractive cultural attractions, ideologies and institutions. Unlike the Hard Power (military force or economic power) used to "coercion" other nations to change their views or opinions, Nye says that the soft power of a country exists primarily in three sources: Culture, Political Values, and Foreign Policy.

As stated by Nye, the thing that makes a nation fulfilling its national interest is how to make others admire its values, the things that exist within the country that inspire other countries. This admiration comes from an interest generated by a state without coercion so that soft power is not just persuasion or the ability to move people with arguments, but to make others fulfill what we want without being asked, including the ability to attract, and attraction often leads to acquiescence.72

From this book the writer helped in understanding the concept of soft power and explained that to achieve the goal is not merely using coercion or hard power and how to build the potential of soft power to hold power. The culture that Nye says is one of sources of soft power, gives understanding to the writer and justifies the topic of research where culture is being used as an instrument of state diplomacy.

According to Joseph S. Nye that culture allows a country to convey more value and message to become a preference for other countries, then through Kitchen of the World which makes Thai cuisine which is one of the pride of Thai people, giving Thailand a chance to deliver hospitality and friendly messages. Government efforts to ensure that Thai restaurants around the world must have distinctive Thai interiors and use raw materials from Thailand to make its cultural information center abroad, to convey Thailand's message about the beauty and natural wealth of the country as well as the importance of the environment there. The hospitality that

72 Ibid.,

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Thailand has can also convey the Thai message of friendship to be in order to support Thai cooperation with other countries.

II.2 Mark Leonard with Catherine Stead and Conrad Smewing (2002), Public Diplomacy Mark Leonard is a British political scientist and foreign policy adviser, stresses that public diplomacy is not just about delivering one-way messages or propaganda. On his book, Leonard define public diplomacy that is about building relationships: understanding the needs of other countries, cultures and peoples; communicating our points of view; correcting misperceptions; looking for areas where we can find common cause.73 With the existence of public diplomacy activities, it is expected to generate good relations and environment for the people of the State, to work together and improve cooperation between them. Mark believes that public diplomacy aims to foster positive public opinion in other countries through the interaction of government and interest groups. Therefore, public diplomacy requires intercultural communication skills as they relate to changing people's attitudes, mutual understanding in looking at foreign policy issues.

Imag Issue e

Figure 2.1: Mark Leonard’s circle of public diplomacy

73 Leonard, M., Stead, C., & Smewing, C. (2002). Public diplomacy. London: Foreign Policy Centre.

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Mark mentioned that there are at least some goals that can be achieved with the existence of public diplomacy74 1. Increasing the familiarity of foreign public with the state makes them think about this country, forming a good perspective with a positive image and and eliminating unwanted opinions 2. Enhance the appreciation of the foreign public with the state and making them look at a global issue with the same point of view 3. Engaging foreign public in collaboration with the state (strengthening the ties of educational reform into scientific cooperation, convincing people in foreign country to visit a country as a tourism destination, to be a consumer of local products and to expand export destinations, getting foreign public to understand and embrace the value of the state which held public diplomacy. 4. Influence people in other countries to invest and become partners in political relations.

Seeing Mark's public diplomacy purpose, then it can be seen that public diplomacy requires two-way communication to create good communication so that the value and message given can be received without any misunderstanding. It also shows that public diplomacy is different from propaganda. Propaganda is often considered to have the same understanding with public diplomacy because propaganda also serves to influence others to have the same thoughts we want. In public diplomacy it is emphasized that in the process and cannot be coercive. In the implementation, Mark divides public diplomacy into two: Competitive and Co-operative public diplomacy. 75 Co-operative public diplomacy is a form of public diplomacy that is aimed broadly without a specific target country. Usually this kind of public diplomacy aims to promote democracy, human rights and law. In spreading these values, a state cooperates with other countries or organizations both

74 Ibid., P:9 75 Ibid., P: 22

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government and non-government in order to avoid paradox in the delivery of values. While Competitive public diplomacy done with the target country that made a priority in the implementation of public diplomacy. Thus, public diplomacy is done more with emphasis in bilateral relations in certain areas, such as political influence, military cooperation, trade, investment, tourism, policy exchanges and coalitions in international organization.

From Mark's writing it is clear that public diplomacy is a planned effort by the government to shape positive perceptions among other countries through information dissemination, information extension and other forms of activity that directly touch the activities of non-governmental actors. the establishment of public diplomacy activities by involving the domestic public is caused by the assumption that public diplomacy is a public product in shaping the image and reputation to create an enabling environment for the realization of a country's interests together with individual transactions.

II.3 Carole Rosestein (2008) “Cultural Policy and Political Nature of Culture” This writing is a chapter in the. book titled International Cultural Policies and Power edited by J Singh. 76 It explained the studies of government-sponsored cultural programming and state promotion of heritage and regulation of artistic expression which demonstrate the joining of culture with power, where cultural beliefs and values explain about why and to what extend human nature demands governing and what counts as private as opposed to public and legitimately governable. The writer believe that culture is political as well, but it just not better recognize and explored. This study gives an understanding about culture as political by adopt more sophisticated and nuanced notion of culture. In this chapter also describes that culture

76 Rosestein, C. (2010). Cultural Policy and the Political Nature of Culture. In International Cultural Policies and Power.

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is taken for granted in contexts and negotiation, and sometimes it makes culture loses its transparency that is why culture has come to prominence during critical shifts in globalization. The policies making sometimes give an impact to the distribution of cultural resources, the policy maker shape the way to make people can access where the culture are created and also provide opportunities for people to develop their capabilities to comment with their own experiences. Policy also impacts culture through regulation of the public sphere in its material as opposed to its virtual manifestations. This writing explain about the cultural policies in some countries which explained by the expert, so this study in this chapter gives a image and understanding about how a policy conducted by the government towards host country can influence to the culture and value.

II.4 Public Diplomacy Magazine, Winter 2014 Issue: Gastrodiplomacy Public Diplomacy Magazine is a publication of the Association of Public Diplomacy Scholar (APDS) at the University of Southern California. In this edition, Public Diplomacy Magazine rise an emerging theme on Gastrodiplomacy and discuss the development of its role in public diplomacy. 77 This edition creates a theoretical and practical framework for discussing gastrodiplomacy in various contexts.

This book summarizes the journals and explores gastrodiplomacy from historical explanations the use of food in international relations, the definition of gastrodiplomacy according to experts, the perspective of scholars obtained from the results of research and interviews about the practice of gastrodiplomacy. According to Paul Rockower, Gastrodiplomacy is the way a country conducts its public

77 Association of Public Diplomacy Scholar (APDS), University of Southern California, (Winter 2014), Gastrodiplomacy, Public Diplomacy Magazine, (issue 11).

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diplomacy to communicate the culture of country cuisine to foreign public and it can be a dynamic new tactic in the practice of public and culture diplomacy to raise foreign public awareness and understanding. 78 The book also presents analytical results, interviews with gastrodiplomacy experts and also presents case studies in some countries that have practiced gastrodiplomacy. Therefore, the book creates a theoretical and practical framework for discussing gastrodiplomacy in various contexts.

This book explains the concept of Gastrodiplomacy that Paul Rockower reveals by explaining that gastrodiplomacy has a difference scope with culinary and food diplomacy. The practice is used as the main instrument to raise awareness and understanding of national culture through its culinary abroad to foreign public. While food diplomacy which involves the use of food aid and food relief in a crisis, it is not a holistic use of cuisine as an avenue to communicate culture through public diplomacy. 79 According to Rockower, gastrodiplomacy create a non-verbal communication for different audiences,

The book also explains the relations of a country's cuisine and its national image from the research of Braden Ruddy. He indicated that the promotion of food has the potential to change public perception of national image and become the gateway of cultural exports of other countries such as art, sport and most significantly increase tourism benefits the country.80 In another journal, this book also explains the perspective of Osipova about how the position of gastrodiplomacy in the seizure of food or so-called here with Gastronationalism which raged between the border of Armenia and Azerbaijan. This paper gives a new view that gastrodiplomacy cannot always play a major role.81

78 Ibid., P: 14 79 Rockower, P. (2014) The State of Gastrodiplomacy. on Public Diplomacy magazine, p: 12. 80 Hearts, Minds, and Stomachs: Gastrodiplomacy and the Potential of National Cuisine in Changing Public Perception of National Image by Braden Rudy p: 27-30 81 Osipova, Y. (2014). From Gastronationalism to Gastrodiplomacy: Reversing the Securitization of the Dolma in the South Caucasus. In Public Diplomacy Magazine. P: 16-20

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However, not all forms of promotion of food products overseas means gastrodiplomacy. In contrast, gastrodiplomacy is a more effective approach to increase national awareness of a country through the promotion of culinary and cultural heritage. This book is suitable to be the source to understand in advance about the portion of gastrodiplomacy from wide perspective. This book can be used as a comparison of research because it explains gastrodiplomacy in detail about the definition of explanation from various analytical perspectives, as well as various case studies that enrich the writer’s knowledge to begin this research.

II.5 Sam Chapple-Sokol (2012) “Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds”82 Chapple-Sokol claims that all things related to food in the study of international relations is called culinary diplomacy, although he tries to divide into two domains, namely private culinary diplomacy and public culinary diplomacy which the difference is the target audience. Private culinary diplomacy is the diplomacy done at the government level, while public culinary diplomacy has a close definition to gastrodiplomacy, the use of food as a tool of public diplomacy aimed at introducing and promoting the cuisine of a country to the public of other countries widely. Sam Chapple Sokol define gastrodiplomacy as “The use of food and cuisine as an instrument to create a cross-cultural understanding in the hopes of improving interactions and cooperation”.

In his writing, Sokol explains that the nation branding effort is government efforts to promote a country's good reputation and this is highly dependent on marketing efforts and nationalism owned by citizens who do gastrodiplomacy itself. Sokol sees the concept of nation branding as a government effort to engage in gastrodiplomacy strategies by promoting the cuisine globally to get recognition by

82 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183.

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other countries. He stressed that if this process occurs when a tourist tastes the cuisine, then he will be able to recognize where it came from. Chapple Sokol also mentioned that the food philosophy and how to cook the food can be a gastrodiplomacy strategy that the image of a country can be recognized by performing a holistic way as an effort to build the culinary image of the country.

Chapple Sokol emphasizes that gastrodiplomacy can work well when a foreigner eats an ethnic cuisine, so the person is able to recognize where the cuisine came from. it can also be introduced through the philosophy, the way of cooking and also the typical ingredients of a country where it can be a tactic that can be included in the gastrodiplomacy part that the introduction of a country can be done holistically from the way cooking, materials and philosophy that can be exported to other countries as an effort to introduce the image of a country.

The Royal Thai government has undertaken a strategy to build a nation brand by promoting Thai cuisine on the international stage through the efforts of public diplomacy, cultural diplomacy and gastrodiplomacy. Public diplomacy provides an opportunity to increase influence and shape an international agenda that can have enormous impacts with limited resources.

II.6 Juyan Zhang (2015) The Foods of the Worlds: Mapping and Comparing Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaign83 This journal describes how a gastrodiplomacy campaign can be implemented with strategic communication planning. This journal is the result of Zhang's research by comparing gastrodiplomacy campaigns conducted by several countries such as Japan, Malaysia, Peru, Taiwan, South Korea and Thailand. This analysis describes the results that a campaign can be seen from healthiness, diversity, exoticism,

83 Zhang, J. (2015). The Foods of The Worlds: Maping and Comparing Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaigns. International Journal of Communication, 9, 568-591. Retrieved from http://ijoc.org/index.php/ijoc/article/viewFile/2847/1316

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naturalness, nationalism, and naturalness. This journal reveals that the gastrodiplomacy campaign characterized by communication that combines product marketing, advertising, public relations and public affairs, the use of opinion leaders strategy, make a good relations with media and building coalitions with other countries is also another strategy to look for synergistic effects.

Food and drink are often described as a means of communication between nations as both are able to represent the value and cultural identity of a nation and create a relationship between brand and consumer behavior. In his writing, Juyan Zhang quotes Kotler and Gertner (2002) who argue that the image of a country can affect a positive reputation for a country like the "Café de Colombia" campaign in which the country is made a brand of coffee. His influence succeeds in convincing many US consumers that Café de Colombia its a quality coffee. In addition, Nuttavuthisist (2006) cited by Juyan Zhang observed that the diplomatic gastrodiplomacy policy is an attempt to improve the negative image of Thailand as a destination for sex tourism and try to position itself as a kitchen to the world by promoting good quality Thai food and cuisine.

II.7 Mark Padoongpatt (2017) “Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America” Mark Padoongpatt is a second-generation Thai American born and raised in Los Angeles, He is Assistant Professor of Asian and Asian American Studies at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. In general, the book explores how Thai food has shaped the Thai-American community and identity since World War II and became popular in America and globally. Mark Padoongpatt explores the historical roots of the relationship between Thai food, politics, empire, race, immigration, politics and the formation of Thai communities in America especially Los Angeles. The history of the US intervention in post-cold war in brought Thai cuisine into America in the early 1960s, Mark Padoongpatt traces how a US citizen in Thailand exposes the uniqueness

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of Thai cuisine for the first time and introduces it to the United States. When Thai immigrants arrived in Los Angeles, they repackaged Thai cuisine to increase its popularity. According to him, the practice of food as an inherent political act is very important, because it shows to people that food is a daily necessity, providing an understanding of their relationship with the world around them. Padoongpatt believes that Thai food is one of the best ways to provide the transnational experience of Americans and Thai-Americans while understanding the informal empire of US in the post-World War II era has transformed foodways into a critical site of racial and ethnic identity formation.84 Padoongpatt shows on his book how the origins of Thai culinary and cuisine in Los Angeles did not emerge from the arrival of Thai immigrants to the US, but from US intervention in Thailand and the first spike of Thai international tourism during the Vietnam War. Then he also traces Thai immigrants especially in Los Angeles who open Thai restaurants to support the economic growth and obstacles they face when it is difficult to get ingredients for Thai cuisine. The subsequent migration and settlement in LA encouraged the explosion of Thai restaurants in the 1970s and 1980s. His latest analysis Padoongpatt explains the Thai government's policy of seeing the potential popularity of Thai cuisine amidst US society taking advantage of the multicultural politics initiatives that have emerged by making Thai cuisine as the focus of Thai political activity.

This book answers the author's question about the origins of Thai food in the United States and what makes it so popular today. Through this book the author gets a picture of the historical relationship between food and identity.

84 Press Conference Mark Padoongpatt, “Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America” (U of California Press, 2017). (2018, February 13). Retrieved from http://newbooksnetwork.com/mark- padoongpatt-flavors-of-empire-food-and-the-making-of-thai-america-u-of-california-press-2017/

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CHAPTER III

THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD

Thailand is a country that is blessed by rich agricultural and food culture heritage. The uniqueness also can be found on the authentic cuisine as part of the country’s culture, which has become the pride of Thailand as a country, as well as its people.85 Thailand cuisine, which is identic with the balance combination of sweet, sour, spicy, and salty, has the ability to spoil and gives satisfaction to those who tastes it. Thailand cuisine also supported by the diverse agriculture and natural resources exist within the country that being used to develop the cuisine itself.86

Aware of the potential of the country’s authentic cuisine, the government continuously conducted efforts in promoting the country’s cuisine to the world, through the practice of gastrodiplomacy. The practice of gastrodiplomacy aims to promote Thai cuisine all over the world, as the cuisine itself is believed to be able to represent the country in global level through its unique taste that strongly represent Thailand’s characteristic. 87 Thailand’s government first initiative to conduct gastrodiplomacy was done in PM Thaksin administration, with a program called “Global Thai” the government aims to boost the number of Thai restaurant abroad.88

85 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

86 Ibid., 87 Timothy, D. J., & Ron, A. S. (2013). Understanding heritage cuisines and tourism: identity, image, authenticity, and change. Journal of Heritage Tourism, 8(2-3), 99-104. doi:10.1080/1743873x.2013.767818 88 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from https://www.economist.com/node/999687

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The changing of administration in the country did not stop the conduct of gastrodiplomacy, which can be seen through the continuation of gastrodiplomacy through various programs called “Kitchen of the World” in 2002 until the ongoing “Kitchen to the World” program under PM Yingluck Shinawatra that has been implemented from the year of 2011.89

III.1 Introduction to Thai Cuisine Most of the Asian cuisine evolved from the high palace, the royal members have encouraged the revolution of authentic and fancy Thai cuisine.90 Like many of the world's leading cuisines, the cuisine culture of Thailand also boasts of its ancient history. Thai cuisine is a product of the transnational interactions for centuries, it is a great balanced combination influenced by Eastern and Western. 91 Throughout the , varied influences have added some other ingredients into Thai cuisine which created a unique flavor of food.

III.1.1 The History of Thai Cuisine The history of Thai food dates back between the 6th to 13th centuries when Tiê-Chiu individuals originally migrated from southwest or today known as Yunnan. 92 Most Thai food is an adaptation of Chinese cuisine introduced to Thailand by an ancient Chinese tribe named Tai Lü who are currently known as Laos and live in the northern , Vietnam, and . Chinese immigrants inherited a reach variety of ingredients and food source, they raised and farmed like cows, chickens, ducks, pigs, vegetables and fruits. Many natural spices are mixed in Thai cuisine such as fish sauce, ginger, garlic, onion, cilantro,

89 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 90 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press 91 Ibid 92 Thai Foodie. (2013). History of Thai Food. Retrieved from http://whatisthaifood.com/history-of- thai-food/

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lemongrass, shrimp paste and tamarind. Chinese people also introduced how to make noodles, but since Thailand is a rice-producing country, Thai people start making rice noodles. The Thai cuisine originally came from China such as rad na, khao kha moo and khao mun gai using fresh herbs and spices.

In the era around 1238-1448, people learned the food preservation.93 They began to preserve excess foods such as fish, meat, vegetables were dried, fermented and salted for consumption when needed. In the rise of , the Silk Road helped connect Asia to the European countries.94 Arab, Chinese, Japanese, Indians, Persians, European countries and closed neighbors to exchanged goods and services.

In the 13th century, foreign trade brought even greater influence on Thai cuisine. Unlike most other ancient cultures, Thailand did not close themselves of the borders. Thailand was very receptive to change, increasing trade with other countries that brought in foreign ideas in cooking style, spices, ingredients and cooking utensils.95 The location of Thailand, formerly called Siam, on ancient East-West trade crossroads and various shipping routes carried the heavily influenced by Persian and Arab culture on religion, culture and cuisine. In the 15th century, Buddhist monks who introduced curry from and Khmer cooks teached Royal Thai cooks to make Indian food to Ayutthaya cooks with turmeric, chili, coriander, cumin and other Indian spices. India's strong influence on Thai cuisine is on yellow curry and Massaman curry.96

During the reign of Ayutthaya, the authorities allow foreigners flocked and stayed in Siam. The western influence in Thailand began in the early of 16th century

93 Higham, C., & Thosarat, R. (1998). Prehistoric Thailand: From early settlement to Sukhothai. London: Thames and Hudson. 94 Ibid., 95 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf

96 Ibid.,

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with the arrival of the Portuguese, then entered the British, Dutch, French and Spanish expansionists. 97 Thai cuisine is also known for its spicy blend between sweetness and red chilies introduced by Portuguese missionaries. Though not all Thai dishes use chili, this is the most influential Thai cuisine introduction that global people know today. While other Western countries in 17th century brought some other important ingredients such as saffron, cumin and turmeric precisely during the fall of spice trade.98

In every foreign influence, at the same time, it has kept its cuisine arts distinctive. The Thai people added a pinch of their own originality by using local ingredients such as galangal (Thai ginger), lemongrass and Thai holy basil which gives a special flavor to any Thai cuisine. Now all the transformations and good improvements of the culinary culture over the years have resulted in what is today regarded as one of the best cuisines in the world. Thai cuisine has never been brought out of the border before, in 1960s at the beginning of the explosion of Thailand's tourism industry, foreign people come in large numbers and expose the richness of Thai culture.99 At the moment, foreign tourist exposed Thai cuisine that offers a taste symphony for the first time.

The beginning of the globalization of Thai food began with US intervention in Southeast Asia on the post-World War II.100 The American considered themselves as members of a global community that tried to build good relationships through cultural exchange and understanding.101 The US made a global expansion to build political, economic, social and cultural relationships to influence the daily life of other countries. To this day, Thailand is proud to be a distinctive country in Southeast Asia,

97 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 98 L Punyaratabandhu, L. (2017). : Stories and recipes from the heart of Thailand. 99 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press. 100 Ibid., 101 Ibid.,

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the only country that avoids Western colonization. 102 As the new global leader, Thailand became a major potential base for the US to combat US’ global free-market capitalist aspirations at that time. The US has made a great deal of effort through cultural exchange, economic and military aid solely to win the hearts of Thai society.103

III.1.2 The Globalization of Thai Food and Cuisine The Vietnam War era is the significant period in the close relations history between Thailand and United States. Both of countries fought together the Communism threats that spread in Southeast Asia.104 For Thailand, the US provided protection from the communist external threats that were heating up in neighboring countries, while for the US, Thailand was a stronghold of anti-communism and became the US prime base during the Vietnam war. Thai and US interactions increased when American soldiers came for vacation during Vietnam War and became the Rest and Recuperation (R & R) for US soldiers in Bangkok. The Americans were accustomed to products such as Coca-Cola or other fast-food products, at this level enabling many Americans to have new experiences when discover exotic Thai cuisine for the first time.105 When Americans eat Thai cuisine, they also eat relations of power, devouring the representation of Thai culture richness.106

US military operations overseas always lead to numbers of US immigration. The American soldiers formed relationship with Thai women, whether it be for

102 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 103 The United States and Thailand, Alliance Dynamics, 1950-1985 by R. Sean Randolph. Institute of East Asian Studies University of California, Berkeley. http://digitalassets.lib.berkeley.edu/ieas/IEAS_12_0002.pdf 104 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press. 105 Ibid., 106 Ibid.,

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friendship, sex but also many of them ended in cross-cultural marriage.107 The Thai immigration began with a group of wives of the American soldiers to Los Angeles and brought their food practices with them.108 At that time, Thai immigrants cook to meet their daily needs. Then they started building small Thai restaurants to meet the needs of other Thai immigrants and bring them closer to home, also wives cooking Thai cuisine as a way to make money.109

But since the 1965 Amendment to the US Immigration and Nationality Act, immigration from Asia especially Thailand increased tripled.110 The 70s to the 80s is when the Thai culinary culture really flourish in the US, precisely Los Angeles. The interaction between Thai food, identity and community is getting stronger in the US. Thai cuisine was attracted American as a healthy, non-fattening diet and very tasty at the same time. Thai food appears a powerful medium to spread knowledge about Thailand country, the people and Thai culture in the US.

The art of Thai cuisine that shows multiculturalism benefits the Thai people in Los Angeles. The exoticism in the cuisine gives a positive presentation. Ethnic restaurants are the only means for Americans to interact significantly with the cultures of other countries. The culinary industry in US is profitable because the people are very enthusiastic about the growth of culture and try new foods, especially if the food can give a deep impression.111 As time goes by Thai cuisine became more popular and Thai restaurants began to grow. Thai food has become one of America’s

107 Yoo, D., & Azuma, E. (2016). The Oxford handbook of Asian American history. New York, NY: Oxford University Press. 108 Ibid., 109 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press. 110 Chia, J. (2017, October). True '', The Food Delights US. Retrieved from https://www.pressreader.com/thailand/bangkok-post/20171015/281505046446020 111 Ray, K. (2016). The Ethnic Restaurateur. London: Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing, Plc.

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fastest growing cuisines along with the Indian, Vietnam. Driven by a wave of immigrants and the more daring tastes of young diners.

In the early 1990s there were over 200 Thai restaurants just located in Los Angeles.112 During that time the Thai government has always kept an eye on the growing popularity of Thai food sales in US. In the early 2000s the marketing of Thai food sales began to echoed globally as Thailand's economic and political strategy through campaigning.113 Los Angeles was the first trial location to authenticate the people interest towards Thai cuisine, the response from LA people at Thai restaurant and food festivals might have provided intuitive and anecdotal evidence to the Thai government that Thai cuisine has the potential for success worldwide.114

According to Mr. Goanpot Asvinchit Thailand’s deputy commerce minister told to the Wall Street Journal, Thai cuisine is popular in some parts of America, but it's already distorted and not traditional anymore.115 To improve the distortions and meet the demands of Americans, the government will launch a food approach through the spread of Thai restaurants in America and send dozens of trained Thai chefs abroad, help launch a culinary training center, form a large network of food and tableware suppliers, and hold many cooking and food fairs around the world. 116 Finally, the Royal Thai government took steps to formalize the policies of Global Thai in 2002 to introduce people in the US to authentic Thai cuisine and improve its quality. In the implementation of the policy, the government began to promote the procurement, production and consumption of authentic Thai food to provide a deeper understanding of the Thai people philosophy. According to the Royal Thai General in LA, Thai cuisine is increasingly popular and spread to California as well

112 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf. 113 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press. 114 Ibid., 115 The Wall Street Journal. (n.d.). Thai Government Plans 3,000 RestaurantsIn U.S. and Elsewhere to Promote Nation. Retrieved from https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB981416480713537865 116 Ibid.,

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as western states. In 2003, restaurants spread throughout the world of 6,873, including 49% in the US and Canada, 20% in Europe, 15% in Australia and New Zealand, 14% in Asia and 2% in other countries.117

III.2 The “Kitchen to the World” Program under Yingluck Administration 2011-2014 Thai restaurants are spreading all over the world today, this globalization of Thai cuisine in recent decades has also been initiated by the government's role. Policies on preserving ancient cultures including a country's culinary culture and promoting them abroad are essential part of economic and political development. The food industry is one of Thailand's main sectors driving the nation's economic growth. In 2002 the Thai government formally adopted Gastrodiplomacy which can be seen through The Economist article with the launching of “Global Thai” program in 2002 and “Kitchen of the World” initiative as the development of the initial program.118 The aim is to promote Thai culture to the foreign community and is expected to stimulate the growth of tourism and enhance diplomatic relations with other nations.

Continuing the previous government policy of Global Thai, stated in Policy Statement under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra, a program called “Thai Kitchen to the World” is released to promote Thai food culture and Thai food products all over the globe. In addition to introducing Thai culture, this project aims to significantly and sustainably increase food safety awareness under changing world condition and produces high quality food that complies with international standards at competitive prices. 119 As the main target of this policy, the government plans to

117 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian Studies Conference, York University, Toronto. 118 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from https://www.economist.com/node/999687 119 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.

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increase the number of Thai restaurants overseas which will boost the annual export of the Thai food industry as stated in the policy statement 2011:120

Support Thai investment overseas in areas where Thai entrepreneurs have potential opening of branches abroad and fostering relationships with foreign agents and partners in order to establish strong Thai business networks overseas; promote and support setting up of Thai restaurants by Thai nationals abroad, in line with the ‘Thai Kitchen to the World’ and ‘Thailand: Kitchen of the World’ policies.121

During the working visit to the United States on 2012, Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra opened Thai Restaurant Week in New York to promote Thai food in the US and the program of Kitchen to the World. PM Yingluck said it aimed to produce and export more food for the world market in order to contribute to global food security. This program would be a major contribution to a world facing food challenges due to climate change. 122 The government is scheduling long-term promotion of Kitchen to the World project and demonstrating Thai cuisine by Thai chefs to educate foreign audiences about raw materials and Thai cooking culture, as there is no secret to Thai cuisine. In her speech the PM also said “The correct cooking process and the way to eat authentic Thai food will create a good image for Thai food and stimulate foreign consumption of Thai cuisine.”

Recovery from the 1997 crisis made Thailand's economy highly export- dependent.123 From 51.31 million ha total area of Thailand, almost half of that is for

120 MCOT. (2012, May 28). Thai PM opens "Thai Kitchen to the World" event to promote Thai food industry - Pattaya Mail. Retrieved from http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai- kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-thai-food-industry-13105 121 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 122 Thai E-Newsletter. (2012). Thailand Wants to be the Kitchen for a Hungry World, PM Yingluck says in USA. Retrieved from http://www.commercethaiusa.org/oca/archives/2458#more-2458 123 Somchai Jitsuchon, & Chalongphob Susangkarn. (2010). ADBI Working Paper Series: Thailand's Growth Rebalancing, (154). Retrieved from Asian Development Bank Institute website: https://www.adb.org/sites/default/files/publication/156009/adbi-wp154.pdf

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agricultural production area.124 The abundant natural resources and raw materials, the year-round planting season, the cultural prosperity of the cuisine made Thailand known as “The Food Basket of Asia” and the relatively low cost labor but skilled and well-educated labor provide Thailand with competitive advantages in the food industry.125 The food industry is an important contributor to Thailand’s economy and has earned the country the sobriquet “Kitchen of the World”. Through the Kitchen to the Word program, the government wants to accelerate the growth of the food industry and ensure that Thai food served around the world is authentic.126

The strategies to lead Thailand as the “Kitchen of the World” are promoting the exports of raw materials, processed foods (Ready-to-cook, Ready-to-eat, sauces or seasoning) and non-food products such as tableware and decorations for Thai restaurants and skilled labors for working overseas, as the first target of the policy, the government plans to increase the number of Thai restaurant overseas, which could help to boost the annual export of Thai food industry.127 The most important mission of Thai Kitchen to the World strategy is to ensure Thai food products to meet the safety and hygiene standards required by international regulations. Throughout these strategies, Thailand aims to act as a real “kitchen” to serve for the world food consumption.128 Therefore, the issues of food safety and authentic Thai food are very important for Thai food industries to go to the world level.

The government's efforts in officially facilitating Thai culture representation abroad by making the restaurant as an informal embassy or a center of Thai culture. The government do not run the day-to-day operations of the company, leaving that to the more experienced partner and department in each country. The government will

124 Ibid., 125 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 126 The Government Public Relations Department. Increasing the Number of 'Thai Select? Restaurants Worldwide. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ewt_news.php?nid=3858&filename=index 127 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.

128 Ibid.,

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play a “strong role” in drawing up the menus, enforcing “genuine” quality and making sure the restaurants buy at least 60% of their supplies from Thailand.

III.3 Kitchen to the World as Thailand Gastrodiplomacy

Figure 3.1: Kitchen of the World logo

Thailand is currently the single largest food exporter in Asia and is known as the “Kitchen of the World”. The abundance of resources, specialization, diversification, R&D, and technological advancements have increased productivity and have established Thailand’s reputation. 129 The scientific blending of spices, ginger, galangal, lemongrass, and vegetables is remarkable. Thai cuisine is considered a proud heritage of the Thai people handed down through generations, they rightly believe it is second to none.130 Thai eating culture, the promotion of “Thai Kitchen to the World” was one of important part of socio-economic development in Thailand. The Kitchen of the World program began in 2002 and aims

129 Bank of Thailand. (2012). Multiplying Thai Strategic Investment in the US. Retrieved from https://www.bot.or.th/Thai/FinancialMarkets/ThaiDirectInvestment/Documents/ThaiPaper_Final%20U S%20embassy.pdf 130 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

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to promote Thai food products. By creating awareness about food safety and producing high quality food at competitive prices. Government’s strategies are covering the whole process from finding materials to adding product value and assisting distribution. One step towards achieving this program's promotion is to increase the number of Thai restaurants globally by providing soft loans, overseeing restaurant establishment, creating business relationships between Thai restaurants and Thai food industries and helping to set up a Thai cooking school to train and supply trained Thai chefs.131 The main strategies of Thai Kitchen to the World include:132

1. Expanding agriculture and food business 2. Adding value to agricultural produce with high-technology production processes 3. Supporting cooperation at regional and international levels 4. Supporting Thai investments abroad, especially in building a network of a Thai restaurants and food markets overseas

5. Conducting Thai Food Festivals overseas.

The Yingluck administration’s has set up objectives for Kitchen to the World include:133

1. To be the leader of world food exporters with the highest creditability in safety, health and sanitation,

2. To promote more export of raw materials and additional ingredients for Thai recipes,

131 Ibid., 132 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.

133 Thai Food To World. Government Project. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php?&language=EN&language=TH

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3. To encourage Thai restaurants abroad to be tourist information centres together with the marketing of One Tambon One Product

4. To support the increase of Thai restaurant businesses abroad and push Thai restaurant to serve authentic Thai food and international standard.

Promoting the establishment of Thai restaurants abroad is an important agenda of the Thai government to launch a gastrodiplomacy program through the Kitchen to the World. The government wants Thai restaurants abroad to present authentic Thai traditional menus such as Pad Thai, Tom Yum Goong, Som Tum, Gaeng Keow Wan Kai, or those listed in government regulations. In addition, the restaurant is also expected to give the impression of Thai culture. Thai ethnic theming is the way of using ethnic art, interior decor, waiter costume, goods, music, service, name and various stereotypes to create a characterized setting which imitates Thai exotic culture so as to represent Thailand both geographically and the culture of the Thai people. The government hopes Thai restaurants can attract various customers for several reasons, it can be a way to interact with Thai cultures, to experience uniqueness or to connect with their own ethnicity for Thai visitor. Through this way, the government hopes that visitors who come to Thai restaurants really feel the experience of being in Thailand.

The international community's appreciation of Thai cuisine has boosted Thai food exports and boosted Thailand's competitiveness on the international stage. This program might be said to have good results because after the program declared the restaurant becomes increasing every year. The positive image of Thai food has boosted Thai restaurant business in many countries. Thai restaurants, ranging from premium outlets to fast food, were set up by Thai people living abroad, Thai expatriate’s wives, and former students, as well as foreigner who just fell in love with

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Thai food.134 Currently, according to Thai Trade Center, there are about 20,000 Thai restaurants around the world.135

III.3.1 Parties Supporting Thailand Food Industry With the goal of preparing Thailand to become the world’s "Kitchen," it is developing a one-stop service to produce and export Thai food and produce to the rest of the world. This strategy is carried out in a variety of ways, run in parallel by various government departments and collaborating with relevant public and private sectors.136 The units that contribute to Thai Kitchen to the World are the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Commerce (Department of International Trade Promotion), the Ministry of Labour (Department of Skills Development and Department of Employment), the Ministry of Industry, the Ministry of Science and Technology, the Ministry of Health, the Export-Import Bank of Thailand, the Thailand National Food Institute, Kasetsart University. a.) Ministry of Foreign Affairs For public diplomacy, the Foreign Ministry is adamant about vigorously supporting its foreign interests and citizens abroad. 137 The Thailand Ministry of Foreign Affairs is directly involved and played an active role in promoting Thai cuisine globally as a leading sector and facilitator in the implementation of gastrodiplomacy.138 The Ministry seeks to establish a harmonious and constructive relationship in conducting gastrodiplomacy activities between government as state actors with non-state actors starting from chef, diaspora, private sector, media, university and public layers as a whole. Each Thai embassy gets a target to keep

134 Thailand’s Best Practices and Lessons Learned in Development (Volume 1). (n.d.). Retrieved from UNDP | Thailand International Development Cooperation Agency (TICA) website: http://www.th.undp.org/content/dam/thailand/docs/TICAUNDPbpVol1.pdf 135 About Us: To identify Thai restaurants with authentic Thai foods. Retrieved from http://thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=about_us 136 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 137 Ibid 138 Cultural News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en

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increasing the number of Thai restaurants in foreign country where they are on duty.139

The Ministry annually allocates THB 20 million or US$ 1 million budget for promotion of Thai food and agricultural products overseas. 140 Thai Embassy organizing Thai Food Exhibitions such as cultural events, conduct cooking demos, establishing cooperation to forcefully promote the true Thai food culture to foreign public. The Ministry works together with Thailand Tourism Authority, Ministry of Culture in organizing Thai Food Exhibitions overseas. To make the exhibitions more attractive, the local chefs in respective countries are involved to take part in the events and conduct cooking demos. 141 The Ministry also utilizes this event to promote Thai culture by inviting Thai Dancers to perform traditional cultural shows.

b.) Ministry of Commerce

The ministry is in charge of trade, prices of important agricultural goods, consumer protection, entrepreneurship, insurance, intellectual property protection, exports. The Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) was established under the Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, to assist in building the competitiveness and marketing to increase the potential of Thai manufacturers and exporters.142 The Ministry of Commerce has worked extensively on such strategies in many countries, providing network of 61 offices world-wide (Thai Trade Centers), including the United States, in order for Thai cuisine to be well known through Thai restaurants selling Thai food products worldwide. In the view of the Export Promotion Department, Thai restaurants have a good business potential that can be

139 Pujayanti, A. (2017). Gastrodiplomasi - Upaya Memperkuat Diplomasi Indonesia. Pusat Penelitian Masalah-masalah Hubungan Internasional, Pusat Penelitian Badan Keahlian DPR, 8(1), 38-56. An interview with Prof. Dr. Ir. Eni Harmayani, S.T.P., M.Sc. from Pusat Studi Pangan dan Gizi UGM

141 Social & Cultural Diplomatic News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en 142 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

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developed to maintain a high level of international recognition. 143 To achieve that goal, the department is carrying out a public relations campaign to build up a good image of the country through Thai restaurants worldwide. Thai restaurants are also used as a channel to export Thai food and products such as dining utensils, furniture, and handmade products.

The Department of Export Promotion (DITP), Ministry of Commerce has already issued "Thai Select" certificates with the approval of the Ministry of Commerce to the restaurants that meet the criteria of the department. It is aim to raise international awareness and recognition of Thai food while also driving Thai restaurants overseas and food manufacturers to step up and maintain exceptional Thai tastes and quality for a global audience under the government’s "Kitchen of the World” policy. The department has sought cooperation from Foreign Trade Promotion Offices and Thai embassies in foreign countries to select restaurants meeting the standard by enabling them to team up with a selection panel to inspect the quality of the restaurants.144 Experienced restaurateurs will run the restaurants on a day to day basis, but according to Thailand's deputy commerce minister, Goanpot Asvinvichit, the government will be playing a "strong role" in the conception of the menus, and overseeing quality.145 c.) Ministry of Labor

The Department of Skill Development, the Ministry of Labor has an enormous role to play in advancing the Kitchen to the World project, the ministry is responsible for coordinating and enhancing the workforce's potential to maintain competence standards to gain international recognition and compete in

143 Ibid., 144 The Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP). About DITP. Retrieved from https://www.thaitradefair.com/about-ditp/ 145 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27, 2018.

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world markets. 146 The ministry cooperates with several institutions in the development of courses for workers, training equipment development, and training pattern development. Furthermore, the department sets guidelines appropriate for the labor development of different groups; it also sets the standard for labor development, and it controls and carries out tests for workers. The department acts as an information center about staff development, vocational training, labor development, and industry technology development as well. For courses to train Thai cooks, it expects trainees to gain knowledge, skills, and good attitudes towards Thai cooking.147 They also learn how to purchase raw materials, store and preserve them correctly, cook food and desserts, and serve them properly. The labor development center provides three theoretical and practical courses. The first course covers basic knowledge and capacity (38 hours), which is made up of work safety, principles of food sanitation and basic knowledge about nutrition; the second teaches key knowledge and capacity (165 hours), comprising the purchase of raw materials and storing them, cooking equipment, and Thai cooking; and the third course covers supportive knowledge and capacity (77 hours), which consists of introduction to computer, English at work, and readiness for running a business. The program totals 280 hours (two months), and after that trainees are sent to undergo training in operational institutes for two more months. Those who can pass the evaluation are awarded a certificate of labor development expertise in the field of Thai cooking, and they receive a recommendation letter from the operational institutes where they went for their extra training.

146 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 147 Ibid.,

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III.4 Kitchen to the World in the United States As stated by history, American soldiers first discovered Thai food in the 1960s where they perceived an exotic culture that they borrowed freely and out of takes off in Los Angeles.148 A wave of Thai migration to America brings Thai food into a part of the culture there. Starting from meeting the needs of immigrants, it becomes an alternative for saturated Americans food because they were consistently seeking healthy alternatives for dining by eating Thai food as a healthy diet and made Thai food has a strong position while creating an identity for Thai-American.149 Los Angeles as the largest Thai population outside Thailand itself made the government launch a program that known as Gastrodiplomacy with the initiative to increase the number of restaurants there.150 Moreover, in Washington point out that restaurants are often the only contact that most Americans have with foreign cultures.151 The response and interest of Americans to the growth of Thai restaurants in the US has caused an explosion in the number of restaurants since 2002. With the growing number of Thai restaurants, it has indirectly increased the number of Thai food exports to the US.

Like many other countries that do business with the US, Thailand has recognized the importance of this growing market. Thailand is currently the single largest food exporter in Asia, for the past 10 years, Thailand has been America’s largest supplier of shrimp and its fourth largest global supplier of fish and seafood and US imports more food products from Thailand than from other trading partners.152 US are also one of the top export destinations for raw materials and Thai

148 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 149 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press 150 Ibid 151 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from https://www.economist.com/node/999687 152 Bank of Thailand. (2012). Multiplying Thai Strategic Investment in the US. Retrieved from https://www.bot.or.th/Thai/FinancialMarkets/ThaiDirectInvestment/Documents/ThaiPaper_Final%20U S%20embassy.pdf

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food products.153 According to the commerce minister at the time, Mr. Boonsong Teriyapirom, Thailand has many opportunities, and if supported will increase the opportunity to export more raw ingredients and food product.154 The minister has instructed the Office of Foreign Trade Promotion in USA to encourage Thai chefs to be hired.155 This will help Thailand's export revenue from the service sector and help promote Thai Kitchen to the World policy success.

The Royal Thai Government through the tactics Gastrodiplomacy intentionally reinforce the presence of Thai cuisine abroad through the establishment of Thai restaurants to increase foreign public awareness of Thailand's existence and the competitiveness of the country by increasing its exports and its prominence on the cultural and diplomatic stages. Thailand governments in foreign countries such as the Thai embassies around the world, especially in the United States also accept the task of promoting the "Kitchen to the World" program as one of Thailand's interests. Royal Thai Embassy of Washington DC and Royal Thai Consulate-General in Los Angeles, New York and Chicago collaborate with Thai agencies and Thai community regularly organizes Thai food culture promotional events in line with Thai Government policy "Kithen to the World" to make Thailand a "Kitchen of the World", the Thai Embassy consistently undertakes activities to improve understanding of Thai cuisine throughout the US.

People-to-people relations have long been a cornerstone of the Thai-U.S. good relations. The Thai Embassy has made efforts to promote ties between Americans and Thailand and to promote understanding about Thailand and its rich culture among

153 Thailand: Feeding the World. (2014). Retrieved from Board of Investment of Thailand website: http://www.boi.go.th/tir/issue/201408_24_8/42.htm 154 Srivalo, P. (2013). Thai-EU FTA deal within two years - The Nation. Retrieved from http://www.nationmultimedia.com/business/Thai-EU-FTA-deal-within-two-years-30201423.html 155 Another Step towards making Thailand “Kitchen of the World”: Inauguration of International Thai Chef Association | Royal Thai Embassy. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.thaiembassy.sg/activities/another-step-towards-making-thailand-“kitchen-of-the-world”- inauguration-of-international

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Americans. The Thai cuisine promotion activity is an agenda of the Embassy which aims to increase the popularity of Thai cuisine, Thai artistic arts and Thai culture among Americans. As stated by the ambassador of Thailand, Mr Bhakavat Tanskul:

We strongly believe that people-to-people contact is one of the effective ways to promote closer relationship between two countries. Food is a part of our culture. The better you know about Thai food means the better you know about us, your Thai friend. Or we can call that this is our Thai Food Diplomacy. 156 Establishment of Thai restaurant abroad is one of the Thai government's strategies to promote its cooking culture. The Ministry of Labor is responsible for preparing the Thai chef to be sent abroad. By 2014, 516 Thai chefs have been promoted to work abroad through national labour skills assessments.157 Thai chefs are prepared by attend Thai national cooking school, training on restaurant management, and also equipped with skills, knowledge, international standards and language skills of each country. This effort will also provide an enhanced standard in Thai cuisine. In 2011, through the Thai Chef to the World event, Lost Angeles first hosts five of the best Thai chefs in the world to host cooking classes for both Thai and non Thai communities.158 This agenda features Thai cuisine creativity through cooking classes and serves Thai flavors around the world. In addition to promoting Thai cuisine, this activity also aims to enhance the skills of professional chefs and increase the number of authentic Thai restaurants abroad.

III.5 Maintaining the Authenticity of Thai Cuisine to Promote Thailand Identity Thai culinary culture is very complex with a tremendous diversity. The label of "Thai cuisine" reflects the way other people realize that it belongs to the culinary

156 Social & Cultural News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en 157 Ministry of Labour. Thailand and English Promote Standards of Thai Chefs | กกกกกกกกกกกกก. Retrieved from http://www.mol.go.th/en/content/52363/1470586525 158 Thai Trade Center USA. Five Top Thai Chefs of the World Will Demonstrate their Skills in USA in July. Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=2478

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identity of Thai society in a broader cultural context. Evolved by the royal palace, the development of Thai culinary culture reflects how Thai society views themselves in terms of social class, community relations and its national identity.159 The influence of transnational interactions in the formation of Thai gastronomy culture also reflects how Thai society interacts with the outside world and modernity.160 Thai cuisine is based on attention to detail, texture, color, taste and use of materials with medical benefits also appearance and aroma. Authenticity is the key to a delicious Thai cuisine that many locals are passionate that s now known worldwide and has grown rapidly around the world over the last years. As the PM Yingluck too often found that the food he tasted in Thai restaurants abroad did not deserve to be called as genuine Thai cuisine, she fed up with poor Thai food so as to raise it in the cabinet meeting. The predominant motivation for the program, according to the government is the frustration caused by the fact that people cooking Thai food abroad just are not doing it right. There are too many western distortions in what purports to be Thai cuisine which is potentially damage the reputation of Thai cuisine against foreigners. In a local newspaper columnist Thairath expressed his concern about Thai food abroad and his support for the Kitchen of the World project:

The biggest problem of Thai food overseas today is the fact that there are numerous Thai restaurants run by non-Thai owners that produce the imitation of Thai food. Foreigners who eat in these restaurants misunderstand that the pseudo Thai food is actually the Thai taste and the real Thai taste (in a real Thai restaurant) is not authentic. It’s time to let the world experience real authentic Thai food. 161

159 Wongcha-Um, P. (2010). What is Thai Cuisine? Thai Culinary Identity Construction From The Rise of the Bangkok Dynasty to Its Revival (Master's thesis, National University of Singapore). Retrieved from https://thaifoodmaster.com/what-is-thai-cuisine#.Wt861duB3MI 160 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 161 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian Studies Conference, York University, Toronto.

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It is important for Thailand to maintain the authenticity of the Kingdom’s cuisine; authenticity not just on how the food tastes and is presented but also in maintaining the traditions in the way it is cooked, and the ingredients used.

III.5.1 Serving Thai Food and Cuisine in the United States The growth of Thai restaurants in America has always been a benchmark for the Thai government. Los Angeles is a center for the development of Thai cuisine overseas as well as a trial site in the Thai Gastrodiplomacy campaign through Global Thai in the 2000s.162 In addition, the United States is the country with the largest Thai restaurant population in the world. Thai cuisine is popular in some parts of America, but what served in the US is inauthentic and distorted, it does not represent the cultural value in Thai cuisine.163 The tastes may also differ because of preparation techniques and using slightly different ingredients, either because the Thai ingredient is not available, too expensive, or the cooks did not know any better.164

Thai cuisine uses distinctive ingredients, moreover some dishes require the spices and seasoning that not always available in the US. For example, Thai Holy basil is very important for Thai cuisine is also not widely grown in the US and restaurants should be replaced with other types. Furthermore, fish sauce (nam plaa) is an extremely important ingredient in Thai cooking and is used generously in almost every dish. In addition, expensive import costs may only use local or cheaper materials and ultimately serve less authentic foods.

In America, often, traditional Thai food becomes Americanized.165 Thai recipes in the US tend to be modified because the restaurant adjust cooking with what they

162 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press. 163 The Wall Street Journal. (n.d.). Thai Government Plans 3,000 RestaurantsIn U.S. and Elsewhere to Promote Nation. Retrieved from https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB981416480713537865 164 Original Foodie with Chef Jet Tila [Video file]. (2017, June 23). Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCjh1iwIAjk 165 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press.

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believe that Americans prefer. For example, Thai food has spicy flavor specialties but Americans are not familiar with the spicy flavor and the use of strong spices so they add a lot of sugar or replace chili with peppers or eliminate it, of course it will be different. only a few Americans have a deep understanding of it, perhaps only those who have traveled to Thailand are aware of it.

Most of the cooks of Thai cuisine in US have no enough skill to meet the Royal Thai cooks standard, most of them are not Thai and have not necessarily studied Thai cuisine directly and it is crucial to serve Thai food to many people. A great Thai chef is in Thailand, according to Blue Elephant restaurant owners at the time, not many Thai workers are eligible or have work visa permits that can be employed. Finally, in general, most cuisines in America are less appreciated.166

Figure 3.2 Som Tam (Left) and Pad Thai (Right) – Thailand Thai food and American Thai food

Thailand’s have complex cooking styles, flavours and unique dishes. The Thai have a saying, “Gan gin gan yu” “as you eat, so you are”, which is reflective of how

166 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press.

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integral food is to Thai culture and identity. It is perfectly encapsulates their approach to food.167

III.5.2 Maintaining Authenticity by “Thai Select” Thai food has grown rapidly among foreign consumers and makes it one of the world's most popular. Exotic, delicious and healthy Thai food is not just a meal, but a culinary experience. To achieve this and further promote the Thai food industry for the sustainable growth, Thai Select is established. 168 It is a seal of approval granted to Thai restaurants overseas that serve authentic Thai food, and processed Thai food products. The objective is to increase the recognition of quality Thai restaurants and processed Thai food products as well as to encourage Thai restauranteurs and food producers to raise their quality while maintaining authenticity.169 Thai Select is part of the government’s “Thai Kitchen to the World” project, first introduced in 2006 and re-launched by Prime Minister Yingluck in 2011 to boost the cuisine’s international appeal, educate and enhance the popularity of authentic Thai cuisines around the world. To maintain the image and identity of Thai food in the local and global market;170

“The “Thai Select” project was originated from the Prime Minister wishing to have authentic taste of Thai food and to promote Thai food in both food service business and industry sectors to the international arena. Supported by the international principles such as standard certification and scientific methods, Thai flavors will develop its credibility and assure its identity. To promote the real tastes of Thai food, scientific data and senses of Thai flavor are used to set standard in a range of acceptable values. Because consumers

167 Tsai, M., Liew, C., & Ling, K. F. (2002). The food of Asia: Featuring authentic recipes from master chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam. Singapore: Periplus. 168 Thai restaurants in U.S. Bestowed with the “Thai Select” Award; the Seal of Quality « Thai Trade Center, USA. (2012). Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=13384

169 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 170 “Authentic Thai Food for the World” to Upgrade “Rod Thai Tae” Food Standard Worldwide. Retrieved from http://www.travelthaiculture.com/authentic-thai-food-for-the-worldto-upgrade-rod- thai-tae-food-standard-worldwide/

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in different countries may have different preferences of flavors, it can be adapted accordingly if it is in the range of standard.”171

Under the DITP, Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, awarded Thai Select certificates to Thai restaurants abroad serving authentic Thai cuisine in a pleasant atmosphere, and with renowned Thai hospitality. Under the Thai Select project, a Thai restaurant that meets Ministry standards will be supported by a certificate to ensure quality food and quality service. The objective of Thai Select are to recognize an endorse quality Thai restaurants and increase the recognition of quality Thai restaurant. Moreover, Thai Select aims to encourage Thai restaurateurs to raise their quality standards so that they are at an international level. 172 The program is also expected to provide understanding to foreign public about the real Thai cuisine culture which become the identity and pride of Thailand.173

“To enjoy the real Thai dining, you don’t actually need to be in Thailand. But how can you ensure that you get the real experience? Simply look for the “Thai Select” logo from Royal Thai Government. It assures you that delicious Thai cuisine is being served in a pleasant atmosphere, and with a famous Thai smile. It's not just a meal ; it's a journey into Thai culture.”174 The certification of Thai SELECT restaurant is divided into two categories based on decoration and service excellence :175

171 Ibid., 172 Interview with Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy. Washington D.C. Wednesday, 11 April 2018

173 Ibid., 174 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 175 Thai Select Aplication Process. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselect.com/DITP_THAISELECT/program/file_upload/document/Application_form_ba dge.pdf

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 Thai SELECT PREMIUM indicates a degree of excellence of 5-star or higher. The label is granted to restaurants that offer authentic Thai food of premium quality with luxury decorations and outstanding services.  Thai SELECT indicates a degree of excellence of 3 to 4-stars, awarded to restaurants serving fine authentic Thai foods.

Figure 3.3: "Thai Select Premium" and "Thai Select" Logo

According to the Thai DITP, which run the Thai Select program, there are 568 Thai Select restaurant all over the US. Underlying these efforts is a brand of cultural identity that has come to define Thai nationalism today. Thailand has given an important role to restaurant owners, chefs and diaspora as non-state actors and make Thai restaurant as an unofficial embassy, where Thailand becomes more represented.176 The restaurant can provide the possibility for cultural interaction as the information center for foreign public and this is where the opportunity for public culinary diplomacy is established.177

176 Thailand, Asia’s New Culinary Crown. (2016, March 4). Retrieved from http://thaiembdc.org/2016/03/04/thailand-asias-new-culinary-crown/ 177 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183.

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To obtain a Thai Select certificate, the government has set several qualifications.178 To be eligible for certification, restaurants must meet the following criteria:

• Restaurant must have been in operation at least six months prior to the date of application.

• At least 60 percent of dishes offered on the menu must be authentic Thai cuisine and the cooking methods must be the same or very similar to those in Thailand.

• Head chefs may be either Thai or other nationalities. In case of non-Thai Head Chefs, the chefs must produce proof of at least a 2-year experience in cooking Thai foods or possess a Thai cuisine training certificate from an accredited institution.

As stated by Chef Jet Tila, the first Ambassador of Thai Cuisine in Los Angeles, "Having something like Thai Select program makes it straightforward: we have the Thai government backing our claim".179 In some Thai Select restaurant assessments, DITP also sets non-food requirements to create an authentic atmosphere inside a restaurant. Thailand is often called the “Land of Smiles,” not only its natural beauty and historical riches, but also because of the country’s friendly people and fascinating culture.180

By emphasizing service and decoration, restaurateurs organize their waitresses wear Thai style uniform such as silk dresses, Thai style menu design using , traditional . Thai style tableware/silverware, authentic Thai music, and real authentic Thai exterior and interior design. Restaurateurs usually

178 Thai restaurants in U.S. Bestowed with the “Thai Select” Award; the Seal of Quality « Thai Trade Center, USA. (2012). Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=13384

179 Original Foodie with Chef Jet Tila [Video file]. (2017, June 23). Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCjh1iwIAjk 180 Tourism Thailand | Amazing Thailand - Land Of SmilesTourism Thailand | Amazing Thailand. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.tourismthailand.com

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prepare their employee the knowledge regarding Thai food and culture and communication skills since Thai people believe that storytelling would increase multicultural awareness and diversity respect among their culture. Moreover, in some big Thai restaurants, within a certain time, the restaurant will feature traditional performances such as dance, theater and traditional music performances.

With an emphasis on authenticity of cuisine and atmosphere, it is the Thai people way to boast and preserve its culture. Through the restaurant, the government seeks to bring parts of Thailand into restaurants abroad beyond geographical boundaries, this is the core of Thai gastrodiplomacy.

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Figure 3.4: Authentic Thai restaurant service

Figure 3.5: Authentic Thai restaurant interior design

Figure 3.6: Traditional Performance in Thai Restaurant

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III.6 The Kitchen to the World Program and Americans Eating Habit Fast food is part of the American lifestyle, but eating too much fast food can have health consequences. A number of studies have linked fast food to health problems, including an increased risk of obesity, poor nutrition, diabetes, heart disease, and stroke. Currently, eating habits trend in US has turned to healthy food consumption. This change has given rise to an increasing public awareness of healthy issues. Poor diet causes nearly half of all US deaths due to heart disease, stroke and diabetes. The research is based on U.S. government data showing there are almost 1,000 deaths from these causes alone, every day and on an analysis of national health surveys that asked participants about their eating habits.181 Along with awareness of disease has come public education about dietary trend. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) recommends consumers maintain a nutritious and balanced diet. however, US consumers have made an effort to eat more fruits and vegetables and made small changes to achieve an overall healthy diet.182

At one level, this meant a saturation of American food products on fast food into diets of Thai population. America needs to a healthy diet, these are consistent with the traditional Thai eating pattern. Thai eating customs do not share many similarities with the American customs, in most respects the eating style is quite different. A CNN report notes that Thai cuisine ranks in the top 10 of healthy diets.183 Thai food popularity among millennials, one of the fastest growing segments of the

181 Davis, D. R., Epp, M. D., & Riordan, H. D. (2004). Changes in USDA Food Composition Data for 43 Garden Crops, 1950 to 1999. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 23(6), 669-682. doi:10.1080/07315724.2004.10719409 182 U.S. Department of Agriculture, & U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. (2010). Dietary Guidelines for Americans. Retrieved from USDA website: https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/dga2010/DietaryGuidelines2010.pdf 183 The 10 healthiest ethnic cuisines - CNN.com. (2010). Retrieved from http://edition.cnn.com/2010/HEALTH/08/25/healthiest.ethnic.cuisines/index.html

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restaurant market. According to Edelman Digital, some 23% of millennials say they eat Thai food regularly.184

The special quality of Thai food is its ability to reflect three key values – nutritional, cultural, and medical with the use of fresh ingredients, well-trained natural talent in cooking methods and presentation techniques, and the generous use of herbs and spices. Thai food is a harmonious combination of tastes and medicinal qualities, as the ingredients are mainly vegetables and herbs. According to Health, traditional Thai food is not only abundant in spice, it's also got some benefits: spicy food can help slow down the eating process, causing you to eat more slowly and feel fuller more quickly.185

It is rather interesting to note that amongst all the world cuisines available in the US, it is indeed the Thai cuisine that renders consistency in form of a healthy and well balanced diet.186 This is certainly because Thai food is an amalgamation of numerous varying elements from across the continents by including all the best and healthy options and leaving out the not so healthy ones.187 Not only that but Thai cuisine comprises of a flurry of seafood, fish, salads which are all brilliant alternatives to red meat dishes. Overall Thai cuisine offers meals which are pretty much balanced for a healthy diet. Another enormous selling point for Thai food is its healthy approach to ingredients, providing a welcome choice for consumers who desire improved nutrition. Health professionals have long stressed the advantages of a plant-derived diet, with a reduced focus on meats, in producing lower incidence of heart disease and cancer. Herbs play an important role in Thai cooking and the health-

184 Why is Thai food so popular? (n.d.). Retrieved from https://thaiexpressfranchise.com/research/why- is-thai-food-popular/ 185 HEALTH. (2013, May 7). World's Best Superfoods. Retrieved from http://www.health.com/health/article/0,,20429860,00.html 186 In Farrer, J. (2015). The globalization of Asian cuisines: Transnational networks and culinary contact zones. 187 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

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giving properties of plants such as garlic (Krat-thiam), holy basil (Ka-phrao), mint (Sa-ra-nae) and lemongrass (Takhrai) is often stressed.188

Eating Thai food in a restaurant does not necessarily serve traditional foods that prioritize nutrition and ingredients, but Thai Select restaurant is sure to serve a healthy, traditional Thai cuisine menu. The Thai Select is a seal of approval from Thailand's Ministry of Commerce that ensures authenticity and quality Thai cuisine around the world. It is based on a vigorous assessment of health and food safety, proportion of Thailand-imported ingredients, dish characteristics, and finally, the Chef's background.189 Thai Select strives to serve a healthy, traditional Thai cuisine menu. The healthy menu is where everything is gluten free, no MSG and no saturated fats, and which highlights the health benefits of various Thai herbs and ingredients.190 Authentic Thai food has unique spices, and sauces that seem to please many people, offering a new flavor, less saturated fat. Healthy yet delicious food, that's why Thai restaurants are so popular everywhere, all over the world, including the US.

188 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 189 Sornsaruht, P., & Sawmong, S. (2017). Antecedents of Thai Select restaurant loyalty in the United Kingdom. Retrieved from

190 Ibid.,

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CHAPTER IV

THE IMPLEMENTATION OF KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM IN THE UNITED STATES

IV.1 Food and Diplomacy Food is always present in everyday of human life as a necessity and being developed through human creativity that includes cross-cultural activity. One that Koentjaraningrat conveys as one of the cultural systems is livelihood systems to get the goods and services. In other words, the economic system is to produce, and to distribute by collecting food, farming, raising, hunting, trading and others. 191 Therefore, food has taken part of the cultural aspects of a community group, because each group or more broadly, a nation has its peculiarity to its cuisine that makes every food has its own historical and philosophical value. 192 The diversity and distinctiveness of food or culinary of any ethnics or communities is closely related to the environment and social conditions. Food, cuisine, traditions, values and practices serve as a marker of the cultural and social aspects of individual and community identity.193 Throughout history, food has become a part of community or group that belongs to different culture and ethnic. It makes variety of food that belongs to varies communities exist and both created and served based on their own characteristic. Such thing is connected with the term gastronomy. According to Fossali, gastronomy is an appreciation of “the art of good eating” that studies on the relationship between culture and eating, it also studies various cultural components with food as its

191 Kuncaraningrat. (2000). Kebudayaan, mentalitas dan pembangunan: Bunga rampai (p. 16). 192 Baskoro, R. M. (2017). Konseptualisasi dalam Gastro Diplomasi: Sebuah Diskusi Kontemporer dalam Hubungan Internasional. 193 Parasecoli, F. (2014). Food, Identity, and Cultural Reproduction in Immigrant Communities.

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object. 194 The role of gastronomy is the basis for understanding how food and beverage are used in certain situations. Universally gastronomy makes it possible to construct an overview of approaches or behaviors to foods and beverages used in different countries and cultures.195

“Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are” that phrase from a French gastronome, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, can be interpreted from someone's eating habits and the type of food they eat, that will resulted prediction of where they come from. Food is the cultural identity that has the ability to represent a nation. Such thing can be recognized very easily as it relates to lifestyle elements. For instance, when people hear Tom Yam, the first picture that came to their mind is a soup that tasted sour, spicy, and a country that is famous for pagodas and elephants. Resulting the idea that Tom Yam is Thailand. Similarly when people hear dumpling, sushi, spaghetti, ceviche, etc. From culinary we also know the habits of Chinese or Japanese eating with chopsticks, as well pasta is the Italian traditional cuisine and Peruvian like to put citrus juice on their dish.

Since 1900, academics began studying food to see its contribution, especially to the political disciplines that began introducing food issues as the basis of political science for the sustainability and proliferation of a modern nation state. 196 Morgenthau proposed the idea of a state's "Power of Prestige", which is a proto- conceptualization of how political elites use cultural diplomacy and soft power in diplomacy to achieve their goals.197 One example of the power of prestige is food as a

194 Fossali, P. B. (2008). Seven Conditions for the Gastronomic Sciences. Gastronomic Sci, 4(8), 54- 86.

195 Blood, A.J., Zatorre, R.J. (2001). Intensely pleasurable responses to music correlate with activity in brain regions implicated in reward and emotion. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, USA, 98 196 Culinary diplomacy: The nexus of food and diplomacy, an interview with Samuel Chapple https://www.splendidtable.org/story/culinary-diplomacy-the-nexus-of-food-and-diplomacy 197 Morgenthau 1985, Retrieved from Reynolds, Christian, Diplomatic Gastronomy: The Convivial Nature of the Power of Prestige, Cultural Diplomacy and Soft Power (February 21, 2012). The

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part of culture, or national cuisines to be precise, which can be used by actors and political elites as an instrument in conducting the country’s diplomacy.

National cuisines have spread through migration, trade and globalization. When promoting national cuisine, it can be assumed that a country is also expressing their cultures and values.198 These forms of cultural diplomacy whether deliberate or unintentional has been coined as Gastrodiplomacy. The terms gastrodiplomacy was first coined in the early 2000s initiated by the Royal Thai Government with its “Global Thai” initiative to promote the Thai cuisine globally. 199 Since the year of 2008, scholars such as Paul Rockower and Sam Chappel-Sokol were starting to study gastrodiplomacy resulting the concept becoming increasingly popular. The term gastrodiplomacy is also familiar and supported by a statement of “the best way to win hearts and mind is through the stomach”.200 Through the use of food in diplomacy, cross-cultural understanding aims to be achieved to enhance national brand awareness, interactions and cooperation in international level.201 Food is a symbol used to communicate ideas, values, identities, attitudes, and social classes, which makes food as an important part diplomacy for a long time.202 The utilization of food in gastrodiplomacy is a continuation of the use of the "oldest diplomacy instrument" as food has been used for cross-cultural understanding in the hope of enhancing interaction in bilateral and multilateral cooperation since a long time ago.203

International Conference on Cultural Diplomacy & the UN "Cultural Diplomacy & Soft Power in an Interdependent World: The Opportunities for Global Governance" NYC & Washington DC, February 21st - 24th, 2012.. Available at SSRN: https://ssrn.com/abstract=2603310

199 Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002, February). Retrieved from http://www.economist.com/node/999687 200 Rockower, P. (2011). The Gastrodiplomacy Cookbook. Retrivied from http://www.huffingtonpost.com/paul-rockower/the-gastrodiplomacy-cookb_b_716555.html. 201 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183. 202 Zhang, J. (2015). The Foods of The Worlds: Maping and Comparing Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaigns. International Journal of Communication, 568-591. 203 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183.

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Practically, gastrodiplomacy is believed to be a practice under the umbrella of public diplomacy where government can promote the country’s soft power.204 The practice of gastrodiplomacy offers foreign publics the opportunity to engage with other culture through food. 205 For many foreign public who do not have the opportunity to visit other countries directly, gastrodiplomacy initiatives or program open up more opportunity to foreign public to ‘have a taste’ of the country by tasting the authentic food that belongs to the country itself. 206 Not only tasting the food, gastrodiplomacy initiatives and programs also gives opportunity for foreign public to know the philosophy and the process behind the making of the cuisine, as well as a chance to study the culture of the country. Rockower explains that gastrodiplomacy is mostly used by middle power states such as Thailand, Peru, South Korea.207

As a country that is blessed by rich agricultural roots and resources, combined with unique culture, Thailand has run the most active gastrodiplomacy to improve its reputation in global level. Since 2002, the Thai government has declared the use of its national cuisine in the practice of diplomacy under a program named of ‘Global Thai’, which continuously renewed to Kitchen to the World under different administrations.208 The agenda is to introduce Thai culture through national cuisine by government sponsored program, practiced by increasing the number of Thai restaurants abroad.209 Through Thai restaurants, it is expected that visitors will enter another dimensions to experience the real Thailand, through the taste of authentic food, friendly service, as Thailand is famously known as "Land of Smile", and real

204 Ibid., 205 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/gastrodiplomacy.pdf 206 Ibid., 207 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf 208 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from https://www.economist.com/node/999687 209 MCOT. (2012, May 28). Thai PM opens "Thai Kitchen to the World" event to promote Thai food industry - Pattaya Mail. Retrieved from http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai- kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-thai-food-industry-13105

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atmosphere that identic to the country through the restaurant decoration. 210 Thai restaurant will also shows the relationship between authenticity, tourism, and tradition.211 As Chappel-Sokol said “you can go to a Thai restaurant and eat Thai food and meet Thai people and understand more of what that culture is about”.212

The culinary approach undertaken by the Thai government is not just a temporary event aiming for short-term outcomes, this strategy has been systematically prepared as a sustainable programs.213 Every Thai embassy has a target in increasing the number of Thai restaurants. In addition, Royal Thai embassy and consulate along with Thai communities abroad routinely organize Thai cultural events such as commemorating the festival (Thai New Year celebrations), Thai Festival as well as events to promote Thai cuisine through Restaurant Week.

IV.2 Government Strategy’s to Promote Thailand as the Kitchen of the World 2011-2014 Thai food had their characteristic worth for purchasing and learning. As Thai food has a good reputation in Thai culture, the government wants to introduce to the world the pleasures of Thai cuisine and to capitalize on a rapidly expanding ethic foods sector in the US. This research will focus on government strategy in promoting Thailand as Kitchen of the World for US. The Thai government seeks to educate, attract the attention and interest of the American community in recognizing the culture of Thai cuisine. This promotion is believed to have an impact in the social development of Thailand's economic because the food industry has become an

210 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 211 Molz, J. G. (2004). Tasting an imagined Thailand: Authenticity and culinary tourism in Thai restaurants. Culinary Tourism, 2, 54-75. 212 Culinary diplomacy: The nexus of food and diplomacy. The interview with Sam Chappel-Sokol (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.splendidtable.org/story/culinary-diplomacy-the-nexus-of-food-and- diplomacy 213 Thai PM opens “Thai Kitchen to the World” event to promote Thai food industry. http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai-kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote- thai-food-industry-13105

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important part to bring Thailand's economic growth. Through some strategies the government tried to introduce Thai food.

IV.2.1 Thai Cooking Tour and School The ambitious initiative of Thai government aims to establish thousands Thai restaurants abroad makes a high demand for more Thai cooks and chef to hire abroad, such thing is needed not only to serve authentic Thai food but also the creation of authentic Thai experience. As part of the Thai Kitchen to the World project, the Thailand Ministry of Labour support in promoting Thai professional workforce in culinary field.214

Still under the umbrella of Thai Kitchen to the World, for the first time the Royal Thai government pointed a Thai-American chef and gastronomy storyteller, Jet Tilakamonkul as the first Cuisine Ambassador. 215 He was assigned to travel in the United States to increase national awareness and promote Thai cuisine and culture. The commitment of Thailand government in running gastrodiplomacy strategy towards the United States is also become stronger through the appointment of the cuisine ambassador.216 Chef Jet Tila duties includes a tour in the United States on behalf of the Thai government to provide food demonstrations, making media appearances and coordinating events.217 He has appeared on several major television programs such as CBS, NBC, Iron Chef America, Rachael vs. Guy Celebrity Cook- Off; and holds six culinary Guinness World Records, and other cooking TV programs to talk about the history of Thai food in the United States.218

214 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). : Thailand : Kitchen of the World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 215 Interview DITP 216 Ibid., 217 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press. 218 Jet Tila Appointed Thai Cuisine Ambassador. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.laweekly.com/restaurants/jet-tila-appointed-thai-cuisine-ambassador-2897096

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The government also encourages Americans to learn about Thai cuisine through the establishment of Thai cooking school and courses, where people will not only learn how to prepare food, but also the philosophy behind that. Most of the schools and courses offered in America are mostly lead by Thai Chef living in the US or guest chef that came all the way from Thailand. Here some most-known schools and courses across US:

No. Thai Cooking School / Course Location

1. Thai Fresh 909 West Mary Street Unit B Texas, Austin, 78704 512-494-6436 thai-fresh.com

Short, recreational courses

2. Blue Ribbon Culinary Center 2501 Fairview Avenue E. Washington, Seattle, 98102 blueribboncooking.com

3. Supatra 967 West 7th Street Minnesota, St. Paul, 55102 651-222-5859 supatra.com

4. Sawatdee Thai Cooking School 607 Washington Avenue S. Minnesota, Minneapolis, 55415 612-338-6415 sawatdee.com

5. Fantastic Thai 12 Reagan Street New Jersey, Old Bridge, 08857

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732-277-5902 fantastic-thai.com One day classes Four day courses Chef courses individually designed to the chef

6. Thai Gourmet House 8313 East Monterosa Street Arizona, Scottsdale, 85251 408-947-1258 thaigourmethouse.com Recreational classes

culinarycenterofmonterey.com

7. Culinary Center of Monterey Creative Thai Cooking 625 Cannery row Monterey, CA 93940 831-333-2133

8. Thai Food and Travel Thai Food and Travel California, Oakland, 94620 thaifoodandtravel.com Four-day beginner’s course Eight-day advanced course Optional travel to Thailand

Table 4.1 Thai Cooking School and Courses in the United States

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IV.2.2 Thai Select Award and the Establishment of Thai Restaurant in the United States Along with the increasing popularity of Thai cuisine since more than a decade ago, it is no wonder that the taste in Thai dishes becomes ‘Americanized’ with adjusted tastes for the American. 219 The Thai Trade Center (TTC) in USA under supervision of Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP), Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, are responsible for promoting trade and services between Thailand and United States.220

In support of Thai Kitchen to the World project, the Royal Thai Government has launched the "Thai Select” program to certify and promote authentic Thai cuisine around the world. The government wants to create more awareness among American towards Thai restaurants that serve authentic Thai cuisine so people appreciate the real taste in food, taste the exotic ingredients that complement each dish. Its main purpose is to provide opportunities for people to taste the same food they would eat in Thailand. The program is also intended to encourage Thai restaurateurs and food producers to raise the quality of their products and services while maintaining the authenticity.

The Thai Select certificate is designed as the official recognition that identifies restaurants to properly use correct ingredients in their dishes with no substitutes, preparing the food in the traditional Thai style of cooking and overall taste.221 TTC, DITP and the Royal Thai Government decide on the standards and judge the restaurant's food. From approximately 20,000 of Thai restaurants spread throughout the world, at this time there are only 1,652 or 10 percent out of the

219 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland, California: University of California Press. 220 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27 2018

221 Ibid.,

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number, that have become Thai Select–certified. Commerce Minister Apiradi Tantraporn in 2016 said out that the government has set a target to increase the number of Thai restaurants that have earned the Thai Select logo by 100 percent to 3,000 by 2020.222

Figure 4.1 Former Prime Minister Yingluck awarded "Thai Select" certification to the Thai restaurateurs

Thai restaurant operators that have been awarded with Thai Select logo will receive several privileges. For example, they will be selected to join various trade fairs in Thailand and abroad and will be invited to participate in seminars organized by the Department of International Trade Promotion. 223 The Thai government is proud to share the diversity of taste in Thai food with the United States, through one of the most prestigious events, Thailand Restaurant Week in major American cities every year.224 Thailand Restaurant Week is a Thai cultural event to showcase the variety of Thai cuisine that involve many Thai Select restaurants in US. 225 The

222 Increasing the Number of 'Thai Select? Restaurants Worldwide. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ewt_news.php?nid=3858&filename=index

223 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27 2018 224 Thai Restaurant Week: A Month to Celebrate Thai Cuisine http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=15286 225 LLC, I. (n.d.). Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy in Washington, DC – News Category – EVENTS. Retrieved from http://www.commercethaiusa.org/oca/news_cat/events

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participating restaurants will offer special menu as well as exhibiting their Chef’s cooking skill.226 Still in this event, DITP present Thai Select certification awards to the qualified restaurants.

Thai Select Restaurant Growth 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Worldwide 508 720 980 1200 1360 1443 1625 United States 81 195 270 325 380 470 568

Figure 4.2: Thai Select restaurant growth graphic

Thai food is booming in the US due to the explosion in the number of Thai ethnic restaurants. Over the past 16 years, since the Thai government initiated an initiative using gastrodiplomacy in 2002 by increasing the quantity of Thai restaurants around the world have a rapid development. At the time, there were 5,500 Thai restaurants worldwide and increased to fourfold today.227 Since the launch of the Thai Select certification program under the administration of PM Yingluck also showed a rapidly increasing the awareness of authentic traditional Thai food around the world. Currently, Thai Select restaurants have increased threefold since 2011 to

226 Ibid., 227 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf

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1652 in 2017. 228 The United States has the largest number of Thai restaurant population outside Thailand. According to Thai Trade for USA under DIPT North America, in 2011 US have 81 Thai Select-certified restaurants, 195 restaurants in 2012, 270 restaurants in 2013 and 325 in 2014.229 The program continues until today and US have more than 568 Thai Select-certified restaurants all over the country.230

THE NORTH- THE WEST THE MIDWEST EAST

THE SOUTH

Figure 4.2: Thai Select Restaurant in the United States231

Alabama 7 Indiana 9 Nebraska 3 South 11 Calorina Alaska 0 Lowa 1 Nevada 3 South 0 Dakota

228 Thai Select Restaurant Directory, Thai Trade Center for North America. The Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) 229 Data is processed from the Thai Trade Center for the USA, the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce, the Royal Thai Government and the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) 230 Ibid., 231 Thai Select Restaurant Directory, Thai Trade Center for North America. The Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP)

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Arizona 2 Kansas 2 New 0 Tennessee 12 Hampshire Arkansas 0 Kentucky 5 New Jersey 17 Texas 15 California 70 Louisiana 4 New 2 Utah 1 Colorado 6 Maine New York 61 Vermont 1 Connecticut 7 Maryland 11 North Virginia 5 Carolina Delaware 2 Massachusetts 4 North Dakota Washington 42 Florida 119 Michigan 9 Ohio 11 West 0 Virginia Georgia 12 Minnesota 10 Oklahoma 0 Wisconsin 3 Hawaii 5 Mississippi 2 Oregon 10 Washington 1 D.C Idaho 2 Missouri 12 Pennsylvania 9 Wyoming 1 Illionis 53 Montana 3 Rodhe Island 3

Table 4.2 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States

To ensure that Americans can have authentic Thai culinary experience, DIPT support the endorsement of Thai Select certification that guarantees the authenticity of the Thai food being served. Currently the United States has about 5,500 Thai restaurants, or more than one-third of all that are outside Thailand.232 There are 568 restaurants in all over US that have been awarded Thai Select logo as an excellent way to introduce foodie to the Thai culture in an authentic manner.233 The number of Thai Select restaurant and the Thai food has become immensely popular in US with the American customers awareness of Thai authentic dish. According to the Thai Select USA, most of Thai Select restaurant population is on The South with 42%,

232 Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce 233 Data is processed from Thai Select Restaurant in the United States. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselectusa.info//pages/restauranthome/#.Wt6a29uB3MI

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following by The Midwest 35%, The West 14% and The North East 9%.234 Lot of Thai restaurants can be found in every major US city like New York, Las Angeles, etc. Even in the smaller cities like Alabama, Delaware, Virginia the interest in Thai food is increasing.235

IV. 3 Promote Thai Cuisine and Culture in the United States In order to create better awareness of Thai cuisine heritage and support the Thai Kitchen to the World project, the Royal Thai Embassy of Washington DC and Royal Thai Consulate-General offices in collaboration with the Ministry of Culture of Thailand undertaken various project to promote their culture including Thai cooking and food, traditional product, massage, art and cultural performance to the American.236 In a broader context, the events have been implemented in line with Thailand’s public and cultural diplomacy policy that aims to strengthen relationship and enhance better understanding between Thailand and foreign countries as well as among their peoples.237 Since 2011-2014 Thai government abroad organized series of cultural activities and event to showcase the best of Thai culture. The annual cultural event and food festival serves as a bridge connecting Thais and American.

No. Event Location and Date

1. The 8th Annual Songkran Thai Festival Washington D.C.

April 11th -17th , 2011

234 Data is processed from the Thai Trade Center for the USA, the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce, the Royal Thai Government and the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) 235 Ibid., 236 Social & Cultural News - Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Kingdom of Thailand. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.mfa.go.th/main/en/media-center/30/page-52.html 237 Royal Thai Embassy News: Thai cultural Performance. (2015). Retrieved from https://www.thaiembassylima.com/news/2015-07-16.php

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2. Taste of Siam Road Show Los Angeles

December 22nd -24th , 2011

3. The 9th Annual Songkran Thai Thai Town, Los Angeles USA Festival 2012 April 1st, 2012

4. New York “Thai Select” Restaurant New York Week September 2012

Songkran & Thai Restaurant Week Washington D.C.

April 10th -17th , 2013

5. Thai Food Festival with Celebrity Los Angeles Chefs September 29th, 2013

6. Thai Select Restaurants Week Chicagoland

September 1st -30th, 2013

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7. Thai Restaurant Week New York, Pennyslvania, New Jersey

September 16th – 22nd , 2013

8. Thai Restaurant Week Los Angeles – Western U.S.

September 23rd – 29th , 2013

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8. Songkran Thai Restaurant Week Washington, DC

April 10th -17th , 2014

10. Thai Culture and Food Festival The Buddhist Temple

Dallas, Texas

May 24th -25th , 2014

11. Thailand Week: Thai Food for Health California Center for the Arts Escondido in San Diego.

September 1st – 7th 2014

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12. Hom Mali Rice Thai Restaurant Week DC Metro Area

September 25th – October 3rd 2015

13. Thai Food Day Public Schools in Washington D.C.

November 6th, 2014

Table 4.3 Thailand Kitchen of the World promotion events in 2011-2014238

Annually, Thai foreign government celebrates Songkran Festival, the most famous festival in Thailand, which marks the Thai New Year. The Songkran celebration is rich with symbolic traditions. Thai embassy with the Thai community in US inviting all the Americans to celebrate the day with varieties of activities at the Festival namely religious ceremony such as a water blessing at the Buddha statue by the monks, traditional Thai music and dances, demonstration, the

238 Data processed from Royal Thai Embassy, Washington D.C., Royal Thai Consulate General of Los Angeles, Royal Thai Consulate General of New York and Thai Trade USA

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Songkran Festival Queen beauty pageant contest and many more. There was also an exhibition zone where Thai handicrafts, vegetables and fruits crafting, and making of Thai desserts were demonstrated. A special cooking demonstration the top Thai Cuisine Chef and Celebrity Chef was attracted huge interest of the audience. In addition, there were many stalls serving favourite Thai dishes and desserts. Approximately more than 30,000 people participated in every events.239

The Thai embassy also sponsored annual event called Thai Restaurant Week since 2010 in the United States to promote Thai culture through the distinctively delicious Thai cuisine.240 The National Thai Restaurant Week, made Americans get good deals at dozens of local Thai restaurants that have been certified through Thai Select. The restaurants are fulfilling the standard preparation of Thai cuisine to make sure authentic Thai cuisines are getting served.241 The Embassy invited a group of Thai chefs from famous International Culinary School or Celebrity Chef to prepare authentic Thai dinner and perform cooking demonstration.242 Thai Restaurant Week is a project of Thailand's Department of International Trade Promotion and the Thai Trade Center, this is the only event in the States where Thai chefs and celeb non-Thai chefs are coming together to celebrate Thai culture.243 The people will be able to enjoy the food festival which will feature the best of Thai cuisine prepared from the finest and freshest ingredients to create an exotic menu that combines a refined palette with native flavours to serve the most authentic dishes to all Thai food enthusiast.

239 Thai Trade USA. (2013). Thai Restaurant Week Press Release [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEn0e62kr2s 240 Ibid.,

241 Royal Thai Embassy Washington D.C. (2014). Thai Restaurant Week 2014 [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wjl1HXhO4o 242 Ibid., 243 DC's Thai embassy hosting food, culture festival. (2012, June 23). Retrieved from https://www.washingtonexaminer.com/dcs-thai-embassy-hosting-food-culture-festival

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The event has successfully raised awareness about Thai food and culture among Americans. The establishment of those events is believed to support the increase popularity of Thai cuisine in US, which is also supported by the presence of Thai Select-certified restaurants featured in the events that serve authentic cuisine with genuine cooking procedures. Cultural events are also expected to enhance the Thai and US cultural relations and increase foreign tourist arrival. According to Ambassador of Thailand to the United States, Vijavat Isarabhakdi in 2014, every year Thai Restaurant Week has been very successful to gained greater interest and have been a larger number of people and restaurant participating in the event.244

On another occasion, Thai embassy also cooperates with various agencies in the US to establish relationships with US students by promoting knowledge about Thailand and its rich culture. One of them is Thai embassy cooperation with DC Public School by holding “Thai Food Day” where about 45,000 students in more than 100 public schools in D.C. has Thai food for breakfast and lunch.245 The students were also treated to performances of Thai culture such as dance, also the art of fruit and vegetable carving from a chef at the Ambassador's Residence. This approach is necessary because People-to-people relations, especially among children and youth, have long been a cornerstone of the Thai-U.S. relations.

244 Royal Thai Embassy Washington D.C. (2014). Thai Restaurant Week 2014 [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wjl1HXhO4o 245 Royal Thai Embasy, Washington D.C. (2014). Youth and Education. Embassy Adoption Program (EAP) on Thai Food Day. Retrieved from http://thaiembdc.org/youth-and-education/

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IV.4 The Analysis of Kitchen to The World Implementation in the United States of America 2011 – 2014

Figure 4.3: Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer

Soft power often described as the ability to influence the preferences of others to make other to want the same things the actor wants.246 According to Joseph S. Nye, there are three sources of soft power, such as “culture, values and policies” that serve as tools within the practice of public diplomacy.247 Public diplomacy mostly known as the government’s effort in “winning the hearts and minds” of targeted public to make them understand, support, and follow one’s policies, goals, cultural traditions or

246 Nye, J. S. (2008). “Public Diplomacy and Soft Power.” The Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science doi:10.1177/0002716207311699. 247 Ibid.,

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way of life.248 Tuch describes that public diplomacy is “a government’s process of communicating with foreign publics in an attempt to bring about understanding for its nation’s ideas and ideals, its institutions and cultures, as well as its national goals and current policies.”249 Public diplomacy highlights the interactive communication, public relations and cultural exchanges between fellow countrymen, foreigners and global citizens.

Joseph Nye believes that a country's culture comprises a core component of a country’s soft power if it is perceived attractive by others. Culture is a set of values and practices that create meaning for society. This is what makes culture can be utilized in the practice of diplomacy to engage with public, which then gave birth to the term cultural diplomacy. According to Milton Cummings what is called as cultural diplomacy refers to: “The exchange of ideas, information, art and other aspects of culture among nations and their peoples in order to foster mutual understanding’ in efforts on promoting the national language, explaining its policies and point of view, or “telling its story” to the rest of the world.” 250 Cultural diplomacy believes as a linchpin of public diplomacy because cultural activities have the ability to demonstrate the identity of a nation. 251 Simultaneously, public diplomacy helps to amplify and advertise a society and culture to the world at large.252 In this connection, cultural diplomacy and public diplomacy become in line to complement each other as a mean of mutual understanding.

248 Signitzer, B. (2013). Public Relations and Public Diplomacy: Some Conceptual Explorations. Benno Signitzer, 205-218. Retrieved from https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978- 3-531-90918-9_13 249 Hopkins, A. E. (2015). Government Public Relations: Public Diplomacy or Propaganda? Social Science, Arts & Humanities Journal, 7(3). Retrieved from http://www.inquiriesjournal.com/articles/1012/government-public-relations-public-diplomacy-or- propaganda

250 C. Cummings, M. (2003). Cultural Diplomacy and the United States Government: A Survey. Center for arts and culture. 251 https://www.state.gov/documents/organization/54374.pdf 252 Carnes Lord, Losing Hearts and Minds?: Public Diplomacy and Strategic Influence in the Age of Terror (Westport, CT: Praeger Security International, 2006), 15.

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In conducting diplomacy, there are varieties of culture that can be utilized by government to achieve its goals. Samuel Chapple-Sokol emphasize that cuisine, as a part of a country’s culture, can be utilized as an instrument for creating cross-cultural understanding aims to enhance interaction and cooperation.253 The use of a country’s cuisine then also identic with the term gastrodiplomacy, which Rockower believed that gastrodiplomacy is “using a country’s culinary delight as a way to conduct public diplomacy and a way to raise nation-brand awareness”.254 Gastrodiplomacy also refers to a method of governments in highlighting the unique agricultural, culinary heritage, cultural traditions to build the reputation of a country through promoting its national cuisine, which go in line with the concept of public diplomacy as well as cultural diplomacy that also includes the involvement of non-state actors.255

Thailand is famously known as the pioneer in the practice of gastrodiplomacy where the has intentionally bolstered the presence of Thai cuisine outside the country whose resulted can be felt today. The Royal Thai government first launched the initiative in 2002 called "Global Thai" and “Kitchen of the World” in 2003 to sponsor the establishment of hundreds of Thai restaurants to all over the globe.256 Under Yingluck administration in 2011, Thai government launched “Kitchen to the World” program. Thailand government intensively introduce and promotes the unique of Thailand traditional food worldwide, and softly communicates about taste, history, culture, and value. Such thing is done under various of programs, from encouraging the establishment of Thailand restaurant

253 Sokol, S. C. (2013). The Hague Journal of Diplomacy 8. Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds, 161-183. 254 Rockower PS (2011). Projecting Taiwan: Taiwan’s public diplomacy outreach. Issues & Studies, 47(1), 107–152. 255 TEDx Talks. (2014, February 18). Food is not only culture, it's diplomacy: Leah Selim at TEDxGowanus [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eyROTdBUs4 256 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php

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abroad, regulating standard and criteria for authentic Thailand cuisine to be served in restaurants, and appointing Cuisine Ambassador.

According to Paul Rockower, there are several characteristic of gastrodiplomacy, which are:257 Communicate culinary culture with foreign public in a broader way, more than high-level elites, enhancing nation brand through cultural diplomacy by creating awareness and understanding of foreign public towards national cuisine culture, and transcends the realm of state-to-public communication and increasingly includes people-to-people engagement. Thailand government in conducting its gastrodiplomacy program, especially through the Kitchen to the World program, has met those characteristic that justifies the effort of Thailand government in promoting its cuisine is under the framework of gastrodiplomacy.

Basically, Thai government have met those characteristic when it decided to promote Thai cuisine through quantitatively rising the number of Thai restaurant abroad through the creating of Kitchen to the World program. Thai government seeks to strengthen the presence of Thai cuisine in order to introduce Thai culinary culture abroad to educate the global communities. Through the Kitchen to the World program the government wants to enhance Thai restaurant business worldwide and make it as an informal embassy and information center to foreign public. The Thai government also organizes extensive food promotion events such as the festival and advertisement to attract a large number of people. Each event in the representative country also aims to strengthen Thailand and other countries bilateral relations, especially at people-to- people level.

Taking example from the implementation of Kitchen to the World in the United States, The Thai government set up a restaurant in American cities and suburbs. Now that the restaurants are opened, the government is concerned with maintaining their quality and their value as export channels. The Government

257 Rockower,Paul 2014. “The State of Gastrodiplomacy” Public Diplomacy Magazine. http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf

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promotes Thai Select to ensure that the food served abroad is authentic as a representation of Thai culture to the foreign community. The restaurants participate in a large number of foreign public events such as cultural events, Thai Restaurant Week aims to attract foreign interests to taste, know and love Thai cuisine. The Thai Embassy also held a Thai Food Day at several public schools in the D.C. area by engaging American students to expand their knowledge of Thailand culture. Moreover, the Thai government's commitment in carrying out the gastrodiplomacy strategy towards the US is getting stronger by appointing a Thai Cuisine Ambassador and establishment of Thai schools and courses to spread a wider awareness of Thai cuisine culture towards American. Arranging these kinds of agendas attracted a large number of people to participate in Thai government’s gastrodiplomacy strategies.

As the gastrodiplomacy that conduct by Thai government show, several impacts on the economic sector can be seen from the increase in Thai restaurant demand and the growing popularity of the respective cuisine from Thailand as the objectives of establishing the Kitchen to the Word program. This gastrodiplomacy cannot be denied that the program has work because after the program declared the restaurant becomes increasing every year. There are around 20,000 Thai restaurants overseas, an impressive increase from more than 6,000 recorded in 2003. The United States has almost 50 percent Thai restaurant of the whole world, there are 508 Thai restaurants in 2011 and increased annually to more than 1,600 by 2017. As well as the results shown after PM Yingluck administration promote the Thai Select certification to ensure the authenticity and quality of Thai food. Since then the number of Thai Select restaurant increased from roughly 81 in 2011 to more than 568 in 2017 that spread across the American cities and suburbs. The knowledge of the cuisine culture of Thailand is definitely growing in the United States.

Thailand utilizes their food as a tool on gastrodiplomacy to share its food cultural heritage in the global stage. The government has leveraging of unique medium of cultural diplomacy to enhance its soft power through cultural events that

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highlights the Thai cuisine culture. Through the expansion of Thai restaurants and events, Thailand offers to foreign public an opportunity to engage in Thai culture. Kitchen to the World program explored how theory of soft power is connected, and the gastrodiplomacy into the wider fields of cultural and public diplomacy of Thailand.

Based on the data and information served and analyzed in this research, Thailand utilize their food as a tool on gastrodiplomacy to share its food cultural heritage in the global stage especially in the United States. The government has leveraging of unique medium of cultural diplomacy to enhance its soft power through cultural events that highlights the Thai cuisine culture through various initiatives that have been done under the Kitchen to The World program in the United States, starting from the conduct of Thai Select certification, appointment of cuisine , cooking school and courses, variety of activities and events conducted to promote Thai cuisine has contribute to the rising number of Thai restaurant in the country.

Through the expansion of Thai restaurants and events, Thailand offers to foreign public an opportunity to engage in Thai culture. In this case, the Thai government used the restaurant as a "spearhead" in Thai gatsrodiplomacy practice. First, an overseas Thai restaurant is America's first place to know and learn about Thai culture. Second, the government set a strategy on how to bring Thai atmosphere into a restaurant abroad such as service, decoration and architecture. Third, through the "Thai Select" program it is certain that the Thai dishes presented to the American is authentic as it is served in Thailand so that foreign customers will also get the real experience in Thai cuisine. In the end, through the establishment of cooking schools and courses as well as promotional activities resulted in the sharing of ideas as a way to promote better understanding of both countries at the people-to-people level.

Kitchen to the World program explored how theory of soft power, public diplomacy and cultural diplomacy are connected. Such thing justified that the

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implementation of Kitchen to The World program in the United States have met the objective of the country’s gastrodiplomacy as well as the objective of the program itself, because, it can be assumed that the implementation of the program was successful.

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CHAPTER V

CONCLUSION

It is important for a country to highlight its strengths in order to build a stronger identity and competitiveness in the global stage. Thai cuisine has become a pride for the nation, perceived as a culture and handed down from generation to generation. Thailand has a strong basic to conduct what is called as gastrodiplomacy, through the excellence of unique taste, positive perception of foreign audiences on its authentic food. Thai cuisine offers healthy food trends that is full of cultural values exist in every dishes. To achieve its campaign to become the "World’s Kitchen", Thai government then took the initiative to practice gastrodiplomacy program.

The existence of Thai cuisine in the global market is a long process involving various actors that interacting on different levels. Initiated by the Thai government, the first gastrodiplomacy program was conceptualized in 2002 titled Global Thai and Kitchen of the World in 2003 to increase the establishment number of Thai restaurants abroad. Thai food and cuisine has grown in popularity, but the problem is that Thai food served abroad has been distorted. This will certainly affect Thailand's reputation and cultural identity. As a continuation and program development from the previous leadership, Prime Minister Yingluck launched Kitchen of the World in 2011 aims not only to strengthen the presence of Thai cuisine through increasing the quantity of Thai restaurants abroad, but also to promote foreign public awareness of authentic Thai culture by highlighting the authentic Thai cuisine.

The Thai government emphasizes the promotion of an authentic Thai cuisine culture by encouraging standardization and quality control by labeling "The Select" to qualify Thai restaurants abroad. This program is a real effort from the government in preparing Thai cuisine to be able to compete on the global stage. In addition, it

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can be analyzed from the gastrodiplomacy strategy in Thailand, the government has always been actively involved and play a strong role in promoting Thai cuisine abroad, as well as how to ensure that the Thai national cuisine spread in all the restaurants in many countries around the world is a truly authentic as in Thailand.

Thailand government have been continuously implement the Kitchen to the World program as Thailand gastrodiplomacy in various countries all around the world, including the United States. The Thai government has a strong reason to run its gastrodiplomacy in the US since the relationship between Thailand and the US has long been established. Moreover, the need of diet eating habit and strong cultural diversity in the US advances the popularity Thai cuisine. The role of the government in devising a strategy of gastrodiplomacy to introduce Thai cuisine has been done in various ways. Thai government intentionally reinforce the presence of Thai cuisine abroad through the establishment of Thai restaurants with the real Thailand's high standard of service and tastes to increase foreign public awareness of Thailand's existence and the competitiveness of the country by increasing its exports and its prominence on the cultural and diplomatic stages. Thai government in the United States has several additional agendas to promote Kitchen to the World program in this country by involving restaurateurs and diaspora chefs such as several international cultural and food festivals, appointment Thai Cuisine Tour by Thai Cuisine Ambassador, Thai cooking school and courses and Thai Restaurant Week which attracts huge number of foreign public in America to share ideas and improve mutual understanding of both countries at the people-to-people level.

In this research, the writer has seen the strategy of The Thai government used the restaurant as a "spearhead" in Thai gatsrodiplomacy practice. Every year since the implementation of Kitchen to the World, Thai restaurants have increased significantly, as well as Thai Select restaurants. Of the number of Thai restaurants in the world, the US has almost half of the total. The number of Thai restaurant requests in America proves that the program is going well and the popularity of

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authentic Thai cuisine is increasing as well as Thailand's position on the global stage. In terms of gastrodiplomacy, Thailand is known as one of the world's best practices seen from its phenomenal achievements.

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APPENDICES

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APPENDIX II. Transcript of Interview with Royal Thai Consulate- General for Los Angeles March 26th, 2018

Interviewer : Nisrini Khairani

Interviewee : Gena Saranya Thangsattayapirom, Information Social and Culture of Royal Thai Consulate-General for Los Angeles

Nisrini : What is Thai Kitchen to the World Program?

Gena : “Kitchen to the World” is the Thai Government’s policy to promote Thai food and Thai agricultural products to international markets and consumers. Since the food industry is very important to the Thai economy. Conceptualized in 2002 under PM Thaksin Sinawatra. This policy is made into a very broad program focus, essentially we want to promote Thai food and agricultural products. The program has also been developed and renamed under different governments, such as Global Thai, Kitchen of the World or Thai Cuisine to the World, Kitchen to the World and the latest is the development between Kitchen to the world and 4.0 in technology-based agriculture. The most recent version is the 2016 – 2021 Kitchen of the World Strategy, under PM Prayuth Chan-o-cha.

Nisrini : What distinguishes one program from another?

Gena : Actually the programs have the same objectives, but the government also conducts research and supervision, therefore government always do the development, as we improve our focus and strategy. This was partly due to the changes as the ruling party / administration changed – the old

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administration left and the new one came in – which also caused a shifting in policy objectives as a whole (not just trade promotion related) from the administration that came before.

Nisrini : Is there any organizational structure or committee in the kitchen to the world since this policy run in parallel by various governments department?

Gena : The implementation of Kitchen of the World Strategy is a collaboration between various Thai agencies, both inside and outside the country. Domestic agencies include National Economics and Social Development Board (NESDB), Ministry of Commerce, Ministry of Agriculture, Ministry of Industry, Ministry of Labor, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), etc. Overseas agencies include the Offices of Commercial Affairs (Thai Trade Centers), TAT Offices, the Offices of Agricultural Affairs, and the Royal Thai Embassies and Consulates-General around the world. Each agency has its own budgets and runs its own programs, but still answer to the same “supervisor,” the Thai Cabinet. Nevertheless, sometimes, there are joint projects among various agencies.

Nisrini : How about the program under the former Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra Kitchen to the World? What makes this series of programs considered the strategy of Thai Gastrodiplomacy?

Gena : Prime Minister Yingluck launched the Kitchen to the World program at the beginning of her leadership in 2011 to boost trade and investment while promoting safety food awareness. Of course this is part of the Thai public diplomacy, Thailand gastrodiplomacy in Kitchen to The World project helps the promotion of Thailand diverse culture and its cuisine in U.S. to enhance Thailand reputation, you cant found it in other countries. There are thousands of Thai restaurants abroad, each of them are unofficial embassy. Restaurant is our weapon, while the food and cooking talent is ammunition. The

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restaurant has become a strategy as well as objective, it aims to attract the attention of foreign public towards Thailand. Actually the establishment of restaurants abroad has been done since 2002 under the Global Thai program. PM Yingluck’s program develops to improve the quality of food by creating new image of Thai food. Authenticity and quality assurance is in line with the needs of consumers in the global stage, and Thai food industry is in competition. The government uses “Thai Select” as a supervisor, this is to ensure that Thai food served to foreign public is authentic as in Thailand, it is very important for our culture. This program is under the commerce ministry, you can directly visit the website under Ministry of Commerce government agency.

Nisrini : In promoting the Kitchen to the World program, how is the role of the foreign ministry or the Thai government abroad?

Gena : Since 2002, the Royal Thai Embassy and Consulates-General in the U.S. have undertaken various projects to promote Kitchen to the World Strategy. Examples are an organization of Thai cooking demonstration (shows and classes), cultural event, Thai Restaurant Festival and in-store promotion events to promote Thai ingredients. There are official reports on these projects, but they are in Thai language, and mostly for internal use. You can also find PR in the United States of America Royal Embassy and Consulates- General in the U.S., but unfortunately it is limited to documents.

Nisrini : How many Thai restaurant or Thai Select restaurant in the United States? How was the growth?

Gena : The number of Thai restaurants in the U.S., regardless of the nationalities of the owners, can fluctuate due to the economic situations. The U.S. agency who may have the exact number is the Internal Revenue Service (IRS). Certainly the increase in the number of restaurants here is very significant,

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Americans are enthusiastic with the presence of Thai restaurants, I think the ethnic restaurant market here is very popular, especially for Asian cuisine. As for the Thai Select restaurants abroad, the agencies responsible are the Offices of Commercial Affairs (Thai Trade Centers) in the U.S. and the Department of International Trade Promotion, Ministry of Commerce in Thailand. You might want to check out their websites.

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APPENDIX III. Eligibelity of Thai Select Badge

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Thailand’s gastrodiplomacy program also supported by the blue print presented in the form of an e-book on Thai Kitchen of The World that can be accessed directly in the official website of Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department, Thailand.

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APPENDIX V. Financial Loan for Thai Restaurant Establishment

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