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Copyrighted Material 08_574566 ch05.qxd 2/17/05 2:29 PM Page 65 5 Where to Dine Even though Venice doesn’t grow much of its own produce, it’s sur- rounded by a rich agricultural district and plentiful vineyards, and specializes in fresh seafood. Venice’s restaurants are among the most expensive in Italy, but we’ve found some wonderful moderately priced trattorie. Some restaurants still offer a menu turistico (tourist menu) at a set price. It includes soup (nearly always minestrone) or pasta, followed by a meat dish with vegetables, topped off by dessert (fresh fruit or cheese), plus a quarter liter of wine or mineral water, bread, cover charge, and service (you’ll still be expected to tip). Some restaurants serve a fixed-price meal called a menu a presso fisso, which rarely includes the cost of your wine but does include taxes and service. If you want only a plate of spaghetti or something light, you can patronize any number of fast-food cafeterias (also look for rôsticce- rias or tavola caldas). You don’t pay a cover charge and can order as much or as little as you wish. Pizzerias are another good option for light meals or snacks. Many bars or cafe-bars also offer both hot and cold food throughout the day. If you’re lunching light in the heat, ask for panini, rolls stuffed with meat. Tramezzini are white-bread sandwiches with the crust trimmed. 1 Near Piazza San Marco VERY EXPENSIVE Harry’s Bar VENETIAN Harry’s Bar serves some of the best food in Venice, though your tab will be painful. Harry, by the way, is an Italian named Arrigo, son of the late Commendatore Cipriani. LikeCOPYRIGHTED his father, Arrigo is an entrepreneur MATERIAL extraordinaire known for his fine cuisine. His bar is a big draw for martini-thirsty Americans, but Hemingway and Hotchner always ordered bloody marys in their day. The most famous drink, which was originally concocted here, is the Bellini Prosecco and white-peach juice, wonderful when created properly, though we’ve had a watered-down horror here in the off season (a real disappointment at 13€/$16). You can have 08_574566 ch05.qxd 2/17/05 2:29 PM Page 66 Where to Dine in Venice To Jewish Ai Tre Spiedi 10 To Stazzione FS. S. Lucia Ghetto Al Covo 39 Fondego CANNAREGIO dei Turchi Al Graspo de Va 16 San Giovanni Al Mascaron 21 Decollato SANTASANTA Antico Martini 30 CROCECROCE Centrale Restaurant & Lounge 33 San 1 Giacomo Da Ivo 27 dell’Orio Santa Maria Mater Domini Campo S. Do Forni 24 Giacomo Do Leoni 37 dell’Orio Casa Zane Fiaschetteria Toscana 14 Rio della S. Gelateria Paolin 5 Rio di S. Agostino Harry’s Bar 36 Scuola di San 2 Il Milion 12 Giovanni Evangelista SANSAN Il Sole SullaVecia Cavana 38 Rio di S. PoloPOLOPOLO Riot La Caravella 32 e rra S. Toma Palazzo Corner Campo di La Furatola 6 Mocenigo San Polo Le Bistrot de Venise 26 San Campo San Polo Rocco dei Le Chat Qui Rit 23 Frari d Frari i S Locanda Montin 7 a n Scuola Grande Palazzo Centani P L’Osteria di Santa Marina 18 o di S. Rocco (Museo Goldoni) lo R iodell Palazzo Nuova Rivetta 22 Grimani a CASTELLO Osteria alle Botteghe 4 F S. Angelo resc Osteria da Fiore 2 ad Palazzo Corner- a Osteria di Andrea 13 S. Tomà Spinelli Pasticceria Marchini 28 Rio Ca ’ Foscari Ca’ Mocenigo Poste Vechie 8 e Ca’ Foscari uel m Sa C Quadri 35 S. iz C l ro Palazzo Sa se 3 Restaurant da Bruno 20 S. Grassi ra Ristorante Al Mondo Novo 9 Samuele 4 Ca’ Rezzonico C a Ristorante Corte Sconta 19 n 5 Rio di S. Barnaba a SAN MARCO l Campo Ristorante da Raffaele 31 G S. Stefano/ Ducai 6 r r tu F. Morosini a a et Ristorante Noemi 25 n . V Campo Rio Malpag d Rio delC Rosticceria San Bartolomeo 17 Palazzo Loredan e Ca’ d’ San Vidal Duca Taverna la Fenice 29 Toletta ella Rio di S. Vidal Rio d Palazzo Contarini Tiziano Bar 11 d. Zaffo Trattoria all Madonna 15 PONTE DELL’ Rio del ACCADEMIA o s Trattoria Antica Besseta 1 a v o r Trattoria da Fiore 3 T Palazzo San Accademia Palazzo Loredan Trovaso . Trattoria La Colomba 34 S Brandolin Rota i d o i Squero di R DORSODURODORSODURO San Trovaso 7 Church Rio di S. Vio 66 08_574566 ch05.qxd 2/17/05 2:29 PM Page 67 0 1/8 mi N CANNAREGIOCANNAREGIO 0 125 meters San Stae Palazzo Fontana SANTA Ca’ Pesaro Strada Nuova Pergola o CROCE n ia ss Ca’ d’Oro li a Palazzo o C st Santi Apostoli o Sagredo p Campo SS 9 A C Palazzo Rio della Panada an a Apostoli te S n Michiel an a D. S di Pescaria l G d.Colonne Rio o i e ra R ri 8 n ca d Fo e Ca’ da Mosto nd 10 Bec . io di d R S.G S.M. dei C. del Campanile e Palazzo l . C le ri Miracoli P so Sanudo le ri S. Giovanni st el g om Calle D. Botteri io o n Crisostomo 11 i iod 12 R San Giovanni Elemosinario 13 San Giacomo Rio di SAN 14 di Rialto 18 S. Marina POLO Palazzo dei PONTE Fondaco Campo S. Dieci Savi DI RIALTO die Tedeschi Aponal 15 Pal. o Donà rr Palazzo e F 16 17 l Priuli 21 e San Campo San d 19 a iv Bartolomeo S 20 S. Maria Silvestro R C. Stagneri ali Palazzo zza Formosa Riva del Vin Rialto da S Dolfin-Manin Rio della Fava . Palazzo L Merc S. Salvador iq S. Silvestro Bembo R Santa Maria i della Fava n odi San arbo C. Bande del C Pal. Salvatore Riva Palazzo Dandolo Merc. S. Palazzo Querini- R S Stampalia io Loredan C. del Teatro .Sa d Pal. Grimari Salvadore CASTELLOCASTELLO i lva San S C. Guerra (see inset below right) . Campo Calle Fabbri tor L San Luca C. Benedetto u S. LucaC e a S c l C. Spadaria p a le e c C c hi .G 24 Campo M 23 27 e Palazzo e r o i Manin a r l 26 r c d e Trevisan- 25 . Rio dei Barcaroli o b O Marco n u 22 i r i F Cappello o C. dei Fuseri dei C. C. Larga S. C l C. Canonica C. Mandola o Pal. Contarini g Pal. Patriarcale i Sant’ Rio di S. Angelo del Bovolo o Campo Apollonia Rio di Palazzo S. Angelo Basilica di Ateneo 34 Bacino 35 San Marco Veneto Orseolo 33 C. Ascension 29 30 F C Campo r . e Piazza Ca Pisc. di Frezzeria San MarcoPiazzetta z o z t S. Fantin e u C. Veste San Marco r r Teatro i t Palazzo 28 a La Fenice SANSAN MARCOMARCO Ducale o g S.S. Moise i Rio delle Veste C. Valla n 31 32 Rio di S. Moise Molo Marzo C. Ricotto be GIARDINETTI Cl. del. San Santissimo C. Larga XXII C. Contarini To Riva degli Schiavoni Zo resso 36 REALI Moisè (see inset below right) Tragheto San Marco Giardinetti Palazzo Corner San Marco Zobenigo (Ca’ Grande) Campo S.M. Palazzi Vallaresso The Lido Contarini Rio di S.M. Casina delle S.M. del Castello & Riva degli Schiavoni Rose Giglio Rio del Greci Pal. Punta della 38 ’ Dogana Venier Palazzo Cl. de la Arsenale Pieta dei Dario Santa Maria del Vin Dogana Pleta Cl. della Salute Rio de la la Leoni Rio D. Fornace San al Mare Gregorio ’ Cl. de Seminario ’ DORSODURO Pescaria Patriarcale 37 39 Cl. del Dose Riva degli Cl. del Forno Schiavoni Cl. del Cagnoleto P. de la Ca’ di Dio Bacino San Marco R 67 08_574566 ch05.qxd 2/17/05 2:29 PM Page 68 68 CHAPTER 5 . WHERE TO DINE your choice of dining in the bar downstairs or the room with a view upstairs. We recommend the Venetian fish soup, followed by the scampi thermidor with rice pilaf or the seafood ravioli. The food is relatively simple but absolutely fresh. Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323. & 041-5285777. www.cipriani.com. Reserva- tions required. Main courses 50€–100€ ($60–$120). AE, DC, MC, V.Apr–Oct daily 10:30am–1am; Nov–Mar daily 10:30am–11pm. Vaporetto: San Marco. EXPENSIVE Antico Martini VENETIAN/INTERNATIONAL Antico Martini elevates Venetian cuisine to its highest level (though we still give Harry’s a slight edge). Elaborate chandeliers glitter and gilt- framed oil paintings adorn the paneled walls. The courtyard is splen- did in summer. An excellent beginning is the risotto di frutti di mare (“fruits of the sea”) in a creamy Venetian style with plenty of fresh seafood. For a main dish, try the fegato alla veneziana, tender liver fried with onions and served with polenta, a yellow cornmeal mush. The chefs are better at regional dishes than at international ones. The restaurant has one of the city’s best wine lists, featuring more than 350 choices. The yellow Tocai is an interesting local wine and espe- cially good with fish dishes. Campo San Fantin, San Marco 1983. & 041-5224121. Reservations required. Main courses 25€–65€ ($30–$78); fixed-price menus 47€–55€ ($56–$66) 4-course, 80€ ($96) 6-course. AE, DC, MC, V. Thurs–Mon noon–2:30pm; Wed–Mon 7–11:30pm. Vaporetto: San Marco or Santa Maria del Giglio. La Caravella VENETIAN/INTERNATIONAL La Car- avella has an overblown nautical atmosphere and a leather-bound menu that may make you think you’re in a tourist trap.
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