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Jolene Unsoeld PDF.Indd
JOLENE UNSOELD “Un-sold” www.sos.wa.gov/legacy who ARE we? | Washington’s Kaleidoscope Jolene addresses an anxious group of employees at Hoquiam Plywood Company in 1988 as the uncertainty over timber supplies intensifies. Kathy Quigg/The Daily World Introduction: “The Meddler” imber workers in her district were mad as hell over set- asides to protect the Northern Spotted Owl. Rush Lim- Tbaugh branded her a “feminazi.” Gun-control advocates called her a flip-flopper. It was the spring of 1994 and Con- gresswoman Jolene Unsoeld of Olympia was girding for the political fight of her life. CSPAN captured her in a bitter de- bate with abortion opponents. Dick Armey, Newt Gingrich’s sidekick, was standing tall in his armadillo-skin cowboy boots, railing against the “self-indulgent conduct” of women who had been “damned careless” with their bodies. As other Republi- cans piled on, Unsoeld’s neck reddened around her trademark pearl choker. Men just don’t get it, she shot back. “Reproductive health is at the very core of a woman’s existence. If you want to be brutally frank, what it compares with is if you had health- care plans that did not cover any illness related to testicles. I “Un-sold” 3 think the women of this country are being tolerant enough to allow you men to vote on this!” Julia Butler Hansen, one of Jolene’s predecessors repre- senting Washington’s complicated 3rd Congressional District, would have loved it. Brutally frank when provoked, Julia was married to a logger and could cuss like one. -
Everest 1962 I Maurice Isserman
WIRED MAD, ILL-EQUIPPED AND ADMIRABLE: EVEREST 1962 I MAURICE ISSERMAN ust over a half century Jago, on May 8, 1962, four climbers stood atop a Himalayan icefall, watching the last of their Sherpa porters vanish amid the bright, thin air. For the next month, Woodrow Wilson Sayre, Norman Hansen, Roger Hart and Hans-Peter Duttle would be on their own. 88 T!" #$%%$&'() *$+('(), they’d set o, from a high camp to attempt the -rst ascent of Gyachung Kang, a mountain on the Nepalese- Tibetan border—or so Sayre had told the Nep- alese o.cials back in Kathmandu who granted him the permit. Had his American-Swiss party reached the summit of their announced objec- tive, it would have been an impressive coup, considering that none of them had climbed in the Himalaya before, and only two had ever reached an elevation of more than 20,000 feet. At 26,089 feet (7952m), Gyachung Kang fell just below the arbitrary 8000-meter altitude distinguishing other peaks as the pinnacle of mountaineering ambitions. But Gyachung Kang wouldn’t be climbed [Facing Page] Map of the 1962 team’s approach to Mt. Everest (8848m). Jeremy Collins l [This Page] Woodrow “Woody” Wilson until 1964. /e 1962 expedition had another Sayre on the Nup La. “We made three basic decisions in planning for Everest. We were going without permission, we were objective in mind, located about -fteen miles going without Sherpas, and we were going without oxygen,” Sayre wrote in Four Against Everest. Hans-Peter Duttle collection farther east as the gorak (the Himalayan crow) 0ies. -
Lesson 2: Meet Mount Everest
Everest Education Expedition Curriculum Lesson 2: Meet Mount Everest Created by Montana State University Extended University and Montana NSF EPSCoR http://www.montana.edu/everest Lesson Overview: Begin to unravel the layers of Mount Everest through geography and history. Learn where Mount Everest sits in relation to the world, to Asia, and to surrounding countries. Compare Mount Everest to the highest peak in your region. Trace the routes of the first Americans, and other mountaineers of the past, who summited this peak, and plot the routes this expedition took as you learn the history of the world’s highest mountain. Objectives: Students will be able to: 1. Locate and identify Mount Everest including the two countries it straddles. 2. Locate and identify Granite Peak, the highest point in Montana (or the highest peak in your state or region). 3. Compare and contrast the geography and history of Mount Everest to Granite Peak (or the highest peak in your state or region). 4. Explain the route the first Americans took to summit Mount Everest. Vocabulary: base camp: a place used to store supplies and get ready for climbing located low on the mountain, safe from harsh weather, icefalls, avalanches and the effects of high altitude found higher on the mountain col (coal): a low point on a ridge in between two peaks, also called a “saddle” crevasse (kruh-VAS): a crack in a glacier’s surface that can be very deep and covered by snow elevation: the height of place measured from sea level glacier: a massive river of ice that moves slowly downward -
Richard Pownall, 1927
AAC Publications Richard Pownall, 1927 – 2016 On my first trip to the Tetons, in 1955, I met three already iconic climbers: Dick Emerson, the climbing/rescue ranger, and Willi Unsoeld and Dick Pownall, both Exum guides. I never imagined the four of us would reconnect eight years later as members of the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition. Dick Pownall was born in West Branch, Iowa, in 1927. He climbed on local trees and windmills, and in his teens he happened to read an article about climbing mountains and thus changed his venue. The following year, thanks to his uncle, who was superintendent of Grand Teton National Park, he worked on the Tetons trail crew and met his mountaineering mentor, Paul Kenworthy. In 1947, Glen Exum offered him a job as a climbing guide and Dick made the first of some 150 ascents of the Grand, mostly while guiding. During these years, he also pioneered a few dozen first ascents, including the first complete climb of the north face of the Grand, in 1949, with Ray Garner and Art Gilkey; Dick led the crux Pendulum Pitch in the dark, and they bivouacked on top. The next year, he and Mike Brewer pulled off a major enchainment in 14 hours: Nez Perce, Cloudveil Dome, South and Middle Teton, and the Grand, a big chunk of the link-up now known as the Grand Traverse. Later that summer, he and Leigh Ortenburger made the first direct ascent of the south face of the Grand. In 1959, Dick, fellow guide Willi Unsoeld, and Pete Schoening pulled off the Cathedral Traverse: Teewinot, Mt. -
UC San Diego UC San Diego Electronic Theses and Dissertations
UC San Diego UC San Diego Electronic Theses and Dissertations Title Science in extremis : The 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition Permalink https://escholarship.org/uc/item/7kq423tz Author Clements, Philip William Publication Date 2015 Peer reviewed|Thesis/dissertation eScholarship.org Powered by the California Digital Library University of California UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO Science in extremis: The 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree Doctor of Philosophy in History (Science Studies) by Philip William Clements Committee in charge: Professor Cathy Gere, Co-Chair Professor Tal Golan, Co-Chair Professor Martha Lampland Professor John B. West Professor Robert S. Westman 2015 Copyright Philip William Clements, 2015 All rights reserved The Dissertation of Philip William Clements is approved, and it is acceptable in quality and form for publication on microfilm and electronically: _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ Co-Chair _______________________________________________________ Co-Chair University of California, San Diego 2015 iii TABLE OF CONTENTS Signature Page ................................................................................................................... iii Table of Contents ............................................................................................................. -
Everest: the Mess at the Top of the World Mark Jennings October 2013
Everest: The Mess at the Top of the World Mark Jennings October 2013 An hour above Camp IV on the Southeast Ridge of Mount Everest, Panuru Sherpa and I passed the first body. The dead climber was on his side as if napping in the snow, goose down blowing from holes in his insulated pants. Ten minutes later, we stepped around another body, her torso shrouded in a Canadian flag, an abandoned oxygen bottle holding down the flapping fabric. Trudging nose to back up the ropes that had been fixed to the steep slope, Panuru and I were wedged between strangers above us and below us. The day before, at Camp III, our team had been part of a small group. But when we woke up this morning, we were stunned to see an endless line of climbers passing near our tents. Now, bumper-to-bumper at 26,000 feet, we were forced to move at exactly the same speed as everyone else, regardless of individual strength or climbing ability. In the swirling darkness before midnight, I gazed up at the string of lights from climbers’ headlamps rising into the black sky. Above me were more than a hundred slow-moving climbers. In one rocky section, at least 20 people were attached to a tattered rope anchored by a single badly bent picket pounded into the ice. If the picket popped out, the rope would instantly snap from the weight of two dozen falling climbers, and they would all cartwheel down the face of the mountain to their deaths. Panuru, the lead Sherpa of our team, and I unclipped from the lines, swerved out onto open ice, and began soloing—a safer option for experienced mountaineers. -
Thomas Hornbein Papers
http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt9w1029qm No online items Thomas Hornbein Papers Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Copyright 2007 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 [email protected] URL: http://libraries.ucsd.edu/collections/sca/index.html Thomas Hornbein Papers MSS 0669 1 Descriptive Summary Languages: English Contributing Institution: Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 Title: Thomas Hornbein Papers Identifier/Call Number: MSS 0669 Physical Description: 24.4 Linear feet(60 archives boxes and 1 card file box) Date (inclusive): 1958-2003 Abstract: Papers of Thomas Hornbein, M.D., professor emeritus at the University of Washington and a prominent anesthesiologist, physiologist, and mountaineer. The collection documents his scientific and exploratory achievements in the areas of high-altitude breathing and the regulation of brain/acid balance, notably including materials from the American Mount Everest Expedition where Hornbein and his climbing partner Willi Unsoeld reached the summit of Mount Everest via the West Ridge in 1963. Scope and Content of Collection Papers of Thomas Hornbein, M.D., professor emeritus at the University of Washington and a prominent anesthesiologist, physiologist, and mountaineer. The collection documents his scientific and exploratory achievements in the areas of high-altitude breathing and the regulation of brain/acid balance, notably including materials from the American Mount Everest Expedition where Hornbein and his climbing partner Willi Unsoeld reached the summit of Mount Everest via the West Ridge in 1963. Hornbein authored Everest: The West Ridge (1965) and co-edited, with Robert Schoene, High Altitude: An Exploration of Human Adaptation, and research files, manuscripts and drafts relating to these publications are in the collection. -
1963 TERM Robert N
the Mountaineer 1964 Entered as second-class matter, April 8, 1922, at Post Office in Seattle, Wash., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly and semi-monthly during March and December by THE MOUNTAINEERS, P. 0. Box 122, Seattle 11, Wash. Clubroom is at 523 Pike Street in Seattle. Subscription price is $4.00 per year. Individual copies $2.00 each. The Mountaineers To explore and study the mountains, fores ts, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of North west America; To make expeditions into these regions in fulfill ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. EDITORIAL STAFF Betty Manning, editor, Winifred Coleman, Peggy Ferber, Grace Kent, Nancy Miller, Marjorie Wilson The Mountaineers OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES 1963 TERM Robert N. Latz, President John F. Fuller, Secretary John Osseward, Vice-President Ed ward H. Murray, Treasurer Alvin Randall Frank Fickeisen El len Brooker Roy A. Snider Leo Gallagher John Klos Peggy Lawton Leon Uziel Harvey Manning J. D. Cockrell (Tacoma) Art Huffine Gr. Representative) Jon Hisey (Everett) OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES: TACOMA BRANCH Nels Bjarke, Chairman Marge Goodman, Treasurer Mary Fries, Vice-Chairman Steve Garrett Jack Gallagher Gr. Representative) Bruce Galloway Myrtle Connelly George Munday Helen Sohlberg, Secretary OFFICERS: EVERETT BRANCH Larry Sebring, Chairman Glenda Bean, Secretary Gail Crummett, Treasurer COPYRIGHT 1964 BY THE MOUNTAINEERS The Mountaineer Climbing Code A climbing party of three is the minimum, unless adequate sup port is available from those who have knowledge that the climb is in progress. -
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42 rockandice.com 4 10 September By Devon o’neil For going on 50 years, one thread has connected every major expedition to the nepal Himalaya. elizabeth Hawley has become a mountaineering icon, revered by the likes of Hillary, Bonington and Messner. Her words have changed Himalayan history. But now people wonder: As someone who does not climb, is she playing too big a role? n April 27, tiny Oh Eun- It didn’t matter that the Nepal Mountaineer- to Humar and House. Unintimidated by the male- Sun crawled to the summit ing Association had already anointed Oh. “If dominated culture, she is famous for calling an of 26,545-foot Annapurna Ms. Hawley’s further investigations lead her to expedition’s trekking agent no sooner than the ex- in Nepal, exhausted and ex- change the status of the 2009 ascent to ‘unrec- pedition has stepped off the plane in Nepal to set up hilarated, her every wheeze ognised,’” the BBC reported, “Ms. Oh would not the pre-expedition interview. She arrives with her broadcast live in her home be internationally regarded as the first woman to native driver, a serious man who wears fatigues, in nation of South Korea. The have climbed all 14 8,000ers.” her bright blue 1963 Volkswagen Beetle. Every time. ascent ended a nearly 13- When Oh returned to Kathmandu, on May 3, She walks inside the meeting site, usually the year quest and made Oh the Hawley interviewed her for an hour, challenging team’s hotel, sits down at a table and whips out her first woman—and only the every assertion. -
Journal of the Senate 1 Ninety Third Day, April 16, 2013 2013 Regular Session Ninety Third Day
JOURNAL OF THE SENATE 1 NINETY THIRD DAY, APRIL 16, 2013 2013 REGULAR SESSION NINETY THIRD DAY MORNING SESSION MOTION On motion of Senator Fain, the Senate advanced to the Senate Chamber, Olympia, Tuesday, April 16, 2013 seventh order of business. The Senate was called to order at 10:00 a.m. by President THIRD READING Owen. The Secretary called the roll and announced to the CONFIRMATION OF GUBERNATORIAL APPOINTMENTS President that all Senators were present with the exception of Senator Carrell. MOTION The Sergeant at Arms Color Guard consisting of Pages Lydia Winslow and Charlene Kwon, presented the Colors. Senator Senator Bailey moved that Ralph Munro, Gubernatorial Kline offered the prayer. Appointment No. 9147, be confirmed as a member of the Board of Trustees, Western Washington University. MOTION Senators Bailey and Shin spoke in favor of passage of the motion. On motion of Senator Fain, the reading of the Journal of the previous day was dispensed with and it was approved. APPOINTMENT OF RALPH MUNRO MOTION The President declared the question before the Senate to be the confirmation of Ralph Munro, Gubernatorial Appointment On motion of Senator Fain, the Senate advanced to the fourth No. 9147, as a member of the Board of Trustees, Western order of business. Washington University. MESSAGE FROM THE HOUSE The Secretary called the roll on the confirmation of Ralph Munro, Gubernatorial Appointment No. 9147, as a member of the April 15, 2013 Board of Trustees, Western Washington University and the appointment was confirmed by the following vote: Yeas, 48; MR. PRESIDENT: Nays, 0; Absent, 0; Excused, 1. -
Survival at 29,000 Feet Above Sea Level
Breathless Survival at 29,000 Feet Above Sea Level by Camilla Calamandrei 1 This work is one of a series of readers from NASA-sponsored Project 3D-VIEW (Virtual Interactive Environmental Worlds), an interdisciplinary, curriculum-based program for middle schools. Glen Schuster, Project Director www.3dview.org U.S. Satellite Laboratory, Inc. 32 Elm Place Rye, NY 10580 ©2006 U.S. Satellite Laboratory, Inc. Illustrations by Rawn Gandy Layout & Cover by Ricardo Forero Volume 4 – Breathless: Survival at 29,000 Feet Above Sea Level ISBN 978-0-9791677-3-7 Project 3D-VIEW Readers 5 Volume Set ISBN 978-0-9791677-5-1 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction . page 4 Fire on the Mountain . page 7 Striving for the Summit . page 19 Descent from the Death Zone . page 25 Afterword . page 32 3 Introduction On May 29, 1953, two men named Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay did something no humans had ever done. They climbed to the highest point on Earth, the top of Mount Everest in the Himalaya Mountains. Hillary was originally from the island of New Zealand, thousands of miles away. But, Norgay grew up very near Mount Everest. Still, the voyage to the top of the highest mountain was an enormous one for both men. For centuries local people considered the huge mountain sacred. They called the mountain Sagarmatha, “Goddess of the Sky” and Chomolungma, “Goddess Mother of the World.” No one tried to climb it. Then, in the early 1920’s, climbers from England began to explore the mountain. By 1953, men had been trying to climb Everest for over 30 years, but no one had made it all the way to the top. -
Tom Hornbein Dan Willi Unsoeld, Pionir Pendakian Rute Sulit Yang Perawan Di Everest
Tom Hornbein dan Willi Unsoeld, Pionir Pendakian Rute Sulit yang Perawan di Everest Ketika pada 29 Mei 1953 Edmund P. Hillary (Selandia Baru) dan Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) menjadi orang-orang pertama yang bisa berdiri di puncak tertinggi dunia, Mt. Everest (8848 m), John Hunt - pimpinan Ekspedisi ketika itu - menulis dalam catatan hariannya : “Berakhirlah sudah cerita kepahlawanan di Everest.” Hunt ternyata telah menarik kesimpulan yang salah. Ratusan pendakian “heroik” tetap dilakukan manusia setelah itu. Salah satunya adalah sukses yang diperoleh oleh duo Amerika, Tom Hornbein dan Willi Unsoeld, via rute sulit West Ridge (punggungan Barat), sepuluh tahun setelah First Ascent Everest berhasil dilakukan oleh ekspedisi Inggris itu. Adalah National Geographic Society yang mensponsori mereka dalam gabungan tim bernama “The American Everest Expedition” pada pertengahan 1963. Norman Dyhrenfurth ditunjuk sebagai pimpinan ekspedisi dengan anggota tim termasuk A. Auten, Barry Bishop, Jake Breitenbach, J. Corbet, D. Dingman, D. Doody, R. Emerson, Tom Hornbein, Lute Jerstad, J. Lester, Willi Unsoeld dan Jim Whittaker. Selain itu ekspedisi ini didukung oleh lebih dari 900 porter yang membawa 29 ton makanan dan peralatan ke kaki gunung serta menghabiskan biaya hampir $400.000. Sebuah ekspedisi yang sangat besar tentunya. Mt. Everest (8848 m) Base Camp didirikan di kaki Khumbu Icefall pada 21 Mar dan rute melalui Icefall segera disiapkan setelah itu. Dalam proses itu, Jake Breitenbach gugur akibat reruntuhan serac (blok atau kolom es yang terbentuk oleh potongnan crevasses di gletser) di Icefall. Meski demikian mereka memutuskan untuk tetap melanjutkan ekspedisi. Hornbein sendiri telah mempelajari foto udara Everest yang memperlihatkan sebuah couloir (celah) kecil yang menurut pendapatnya sangat mungkin dilalui.