Vietnam Understand & Survival (Chapter)

Edition 11th Edition, February 2012 Pages 117pp PDF Page Range 425-536

Coverage includes: Understand , Vietnam Today, History - from Chinese occupation to the American War and beyond, People & Culture, Hill Tribes of Vietnam, Architecture: , Pagodas & Temples and Soviet Architecture, Food & Drink: Regional Specialties, Vegetarians & Vegans, Customs and Cooking Courses, Environment: Wildlife, National Parks, Environmental Issues and Global Warming, Survival Guide, Directory, Transport and Glossary.

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VIETNAM TODAY ...... 426 From broke socialist economy to capitalist market model, Vietnam’s transformation has been swift. What’s the state of play today?

HISTORY ...... 429 Vietnam’s history has been a near-endless task of taking on and repelling invaders from the east and west.

PEOPLE & CULTURE ...... 447 Perhaps the most diverse country in Asia, Vietnam is home to an incredible blend of people and cultures.

HILL TRIBES OF VIETNAM ...... 457 Highland cultures, traditions, beliefs and landscapes are a world away from lowland Vietnamese ways.

ARCHITECTURE IN VIETNAM ...... 467 From French colonial grandeur to Socialist brutalism, Vietnam’s architectural legacy is diverse and fascinating.

REGIONAL SPECIALITIES ...... 477 Find out about Hue’s imperial cuisine, Hoi An’s unique culinary heritage and northern and southern staples.

FOOD & DRINK ...... 485 From crunchy spring rolls to fresh beer, you’ll never go hungry or thirsty in Vietnam.

ENVIRONMENT ...... 492 The land is compelling in its beauty, but pollution and wildlife trading are constant threats. population per sq km 426 VIETNAM UK USA

≈ 80 people

Vietnam Today

Few places on earth have changed as much as Vietnam in the past few decades. One of the poorest, war-wounded corners of the globe has trans- formed itself into a stable, prospering nation through industriousness, ingenuity and ambition. The overall standard of living has risen incred- ibly, and education and healthcare have greatly improved. Blue-chip » Population: 90.5 million fi nance has fl ooded into a red-fl ag Communist society. Comrades have become entrepreneurs. It’s been a breathtaking, and largely successful » Life expect- ancy: 69 for transformation. men, 75 for And yet, take a peek beneath those headline-grabbing growth fi gures women and there are concerns. Double-digit growth has faltered as the economy » Infant has cooled. Corruption remains systemic. have to pay mortality: 21 backhanders for everything from getting an internet connection to securing per 1000 births a hospital appointment. At the highest level, corrupt politicians have been » GDP: caught demanding millions of dollars to facilitate infrastructure projects. US$104.6 billion The Political Landscape » Adult literacy Vietnam’s political system could not be simpler: the Communist Party is rate: 94% the sole source of power. Offi cially, according to the Vietnamese consti- tution, the National Assembly (or parliament) is the country’s supreme authority, but in practice it’s a tool of the Party and carefully controlled elections ensure 90% of delegates are Communist Party members. Offi cially, is still king, but there can be few party hacks who really believe Vietnam is a Marxist utopia. Market-oriented social- ism is the new mantra. thrives like never before, the dynamic private sector driving the economy. On the street, everyone seems to be out to make a fast buck. The reality is that the state still controls a vast swathe of the economy. More than 100 of the 200 biggest companies in Vietnam are state-owned

T o p B o o k s B e s t F i l m s » The Quiet American (Graham » Vietnam: Rising Dragon (Bill » (1979) Greene) Classic novel set in the Hayton) A candid assessment of Director: Francis Ford Coppola . the nation today. » Cyclo (Xich Lo; 1995) » The Sorrow of War (Bao » Catfish & Mandala (Andrew Director: Anh Hung Tran Ninh) The North Vietnamese X Pham) Biographical tale of a » The Deer Hunter (1978) perspective. Vietnamese-American. Director: Michael Cimino belief systems if Vietnam were 427 (% of population) 100 people

37.4 31.9

Buddhist Protestant

86 would be Kinh (Vietnamese) 20.7 3 would be Thai and Muong 2 would be Tay 9.4 0.4 2 would be (ethnic Khmer) Catholic Cao Dai Other 1 would be Hoa (ethnic Chinese) 6 would be others

and the key sectors of oil production, shipbuilding, cement, coal and rub- ber are government controlled. There’s no sign that Party hegemony is slipping in other areas. Politi- cal dissent is a complete no-no and the entire nation’s internet operates behind a fi rewall that blocks anything – including Facebook – that might potentially lead to trouble. In 2007, democracy movement members Nguyen Van Dai and Le Thi Cong Nhan were sent to prison for spread- ing ‘anti-state propaganda’. North & South The Vietnamese economy has been buoyant for 20 years, but some areas are more buoyant than others. In 2011, the City (HCMC) » Annual rice economy was growing at double the national rate (10.3% compared to production: 5.5%). It’s the south that’s benefi ted most from inward investment as Viet 36 million tonnes Kieu (, the vast majority of whom are southerners) » have returned and invested in the region. Bombs dropped on The government is aware of these divisions and tries to balance the Vietnam in the offi ces of state so if the prime is from the south, the head of the American War: Communist Party is from the north. 8 million tonnes When it comes to the older generation, the south has never forgiven » Number of the north for bulldozing their war cemeteries, imposing communism mobile phones: and blackballing whole families. The north has never forgiven the south 98 million+ for siding with the Americans against their own people. Luckily for » Annual nuoc Vietnam, the new generation seems to have less interest in the country’s mam (fish harrowing history. sauce) pro- duction: 200 Vietnam’s Place in the World million litres In 2000 Bill Clinton became the fi rst US president to visit northern Viet- nam. George W Bush followed suit in 2006. Today relations with the

Best Fruit » Platoon (1986) Director: » Mangosteen (mang cut) » Papaya (du du) Delicious Subtle, fragrant and delicately unripe in salads, or refreshing » The Lover (L’amant; 1992) flavoured. when ripe. Director: Jean-Jacques Annaud » Rambutan (chom chom) » Longan (nhan) Light-brown Looks like a sore testicle, inside skin and a lychee-like flavour. it’s sweet and juicy. - - - o- p oint ioxin p d

eration d p ensation ash p fl ortant links roved signifi p ression of p com pp d ai bilateral trade was otential from which it buys igion remain areas p ( l ( p atrols continues. Chi re ortunities remain and p d oisoning resulting from p pp uo, for now. They’re living uo, for now. q ation of the islands in retty good for most, though retty p p er-busy and joint coo eech an p . US and Vietnamese. US militaries olitics with and the USA ) p is a huge concern. The country p egacy Orange an of Agent ) l osits, remain a owering a new generation of young p p ower om of s p d – the USA has never – the USA ). ular foreign language studied in Vietnam. d ted their status n p p ve o s historic enemy China have im China have s historic enemy l ’ erity. Times are erity. p of ASEAN, and by fostering im and of ASEAN, p . p . ros p ers (100%) or (100%) phan tram tram p issues of free d ros efense Policy Dialogue talks. Vietnam’s su talks. Vietnam’s Dialogue efense Policy Play Play Meet the minorities in a Meet the minorities » » p D bottoms-up in a backstreet bar. a backstreet in bottoms-up mountain village. mountain and former Soviet Russia block countries rotests against the Chinese occu , running at 22% in July 2011 running at 22% in July olitically cordial and economically vibrant olitically cordial and economically ( p p issent an ratly Islands, rich in oil ratly Islands, d p

l economy economy ation Relations with Vietnam Vietnam counterbalances its ld annual o oisoning remains unreso he itica with active membershi aerial bombing during the American War. aerial bombing during the cantly. Trade is booming, are hy Trade cantly. t and HCMC in June 2011 and HCMC in June most of its military hardware Most Vietnamese have acce Vietnamese have Most sulted in State the of Natio p nese is the second most USA are USA l The S is stable. is booming, em is stable. Tourism infl to the estimated three million victimsto the estimated three million of dioxin however, with both nations claiming sovereignty. Escalating tensions re with both nations claiming sovereignty. however, in everything from steel manufacturing to naval with Viets to a better life. Of course if things turn sour the tide may turn, but Viets turn sour the tide may life. Of course if things to a better for now the outlook looks decent as long as o in an age of rising worth billion in 2010 more than US$18 h of contention. For the Vietnamese, the of contention. For

Exports: P r i n c i p a l Squat down and get stuck stuck and get Squat down Learn the art of crossing crossing art of the Learn the nation and see Saddle-up Sugar Sugar cane Peanuts Bananas Tea Pepper Soybeans Cashews Rice Coffee Rubber Cotton » » » Agricultural Agricultural

» » » » » » » » » »

» Must Experience into . street into the street. wheels. on two

428 VIETNAM TODAY 429

History To get an idea of Vietnam’s turbulent history all you have to do is stroll through any town in the country and take at look at the street names. Then try it again somewhere else. You’ll soon get déjà vu. The same names occur again and again, refl ecting the national heroes who, over the last 2000 years, have repelled a succession of foreign invaders. If the street borders a river it’ll be called Bach Dang (after the battles of 938 and 1288); a principal boulevard will be Le Loi (the who defeated the Chinese in 1428). For millennia the Vietnamese, in the backyard of a giant neighbour, have fi rst and foremost had to deal with China. They’ve been resisting Chinese domination from as far back as the 2nd Century BC and had to endure a 1000-year occupation. The struggle to nationhood has been immense. Sure, the American War in Vietnam captured the attention of the West, but for the Vietnamese the Americans were simply the last in a long line of visitors who had come and gone. As far as Ho Chi Minh was concerned, no matter what was required or how long it took, they too would be vanquished. In centuries past the Khmers, the Mongols and were all de- feated. There was a humbling period of colonialism under the French. As recently as 1979, just after the cataclysmic horrors of the American War, with the country on its knees, they took on an invading Chinese army – and sent them home in a matter of weeks. Inevitably all these invaders have left their mark. The Chinese brought , and the principals of : community above individual, a respect for education and family. The French intro- duced railways, and bequeathed some grand architecture and fabulous cuisine. And though the Americans left a devastated nation, at least Viet- namese pride remained intact. In recent years progress has been remarkable, as Vietnam has become a key member of Asean and its economy has boomed – though systemic

2789 BC 2000 BC 300BC The Van Lang The Bronze Age Vietnamese people kingdom, considered of the northern the fi rst independent emerges in the Red region were culturally Vietnamese state, is River Delta around divided between founded by the Hung Hanoi, renowned for Au Viet (highland Vuong kings. It’s its rice cultivation Vietnamese) and Lac referred to by both the and the production of Viet (Vietnamese of Chin and Tang Chinese bronzeware, including the plains) who settled dynasties. drums and gongs. the Red River basin. - - e d d l o, b- ity g l om, the i arty the , ture. d b d p l pture l e what ong the art an l d ing cu d k AD AD 40 u d unch who l cials and ay Danang ay eeing. They They eeing. b queens of an fl of sta d Sisters (Hai Sisters (Hai thus foun century BC. ne d fi ing a g d d d centre. l The Trung Sisters tivation an ture, famous for ture, famous sends the Chinese l erio iterranean. Later to inc l n Chinese occupiers, occupiers, Chinese (Hai Ba Trung) led a p raising an army that d d rebellion against the oth for transporta proclaim themselves themselves proclaim River. There were River. ian art an empire. The peop b tura independent Vietnam. governor g the 3r l present- d or Borei it was pro d s d d k l e fi atio out 500,000 years a out 500,000 om, sprea ochina, an asting asting b l d p d rather than surrender , southwar aroun ering, secure, its borders and ing d d k p y from In even Me the e l Dong Son cu to a y this cost them their d d d but d 111 BC l , ros etween these two great powers. etween these two vances in rice cuvances in rice city of Ang city . Like Funan, it adopted Sanskrit Funan, . Like ress a centralised state system on s principal port was Oc-Eo in city p b d ) ’ d excavations here suggest there was excavations

p l e prevails as the d heavi ll 211 d sometime aroun expan timate forwar l d d rule. Confucianism ta as a major agricuta as a major Vietnam, heralding k ogica l the Funan the Funan l River Delta region of China annex the Red ptures in the Museum of Cham Scu ptures in the Museum The Han of l d orate system of cana see p governing philosophy. oo 1000years of Chinese ( e numbers of Chinese settlers, offi e numbers of Chinese settlers, l b g the wa om of Funan – famous for its re om of Funan orrowe a le, raised an army and led a revolt against the le, raised an army l ace d b d l state of war: with the Vietnamese to the north

p l states rather than a uni a l so saw huge a so saw d onesia, Persia an onesia, Persia ves squeeze d l a l eo Phan Rang. The Cham were a feisty s ing d archaeo e can d River De p an e d a k d y ite d 7000 BC for these hunter gatherers to practise these hunter gatherers 7000 BC for ru d d pl om of emerge l b aroun in 248.in ong the entire coast of In a l d rums, emerge ture. The sophisticate d uered the Red River Delta in the 2nd century BC. Over eo ian l d q p D ). d ta an . s a

ing l o o unti themse e d k . k b s k centuries, lar d . a empire rep ly anguage an l g u p 181 p l (

d rai rst inha for decades until fi d ar d Cam 225–248BC ong De ves in a perpetua elephants to battle, l d E k a giant who rode war tion, creaking infrastructure creaking tion, ruling an anti-democratic and Female warrior, Trieu Trieu warrior, Female ong Son perio out some exquisite scu Sisters threw themselves into the Hat Gian Sisters threw into the Hat themselves rogress defeat and her suicide confronts the Chinese p e Hin Thi Trinh, described as ucte k g D Chinese con p ong River ronze mo e h the Khmers to the south. U

d k b y a grouping of feu e e From the 1st to 6th From was part of the In- centuries AD, In the most famous act of resistance, in AD 40, the Trun In T d d h ianise imentary agricu bl the followin as a sacre con Trun contact with China, In rallied the Ba Trung) Chec emergence of the Re emergence of Chinese. The Chinese counter-attacked 1000 Years of Chinese Occu of Chinese 1000 Years Th themse d architecture. Base a rice. Funan tion and the irrigation of Th Humans d corru in Danang the Vietnamese scholars moved south seeking to im By the 8th century Champa ha the Vietname an remain. But the countryremain. and is united of Funan constructe of Funan as they foun though it too an in the late 2nd century AD on the Chen is now an is now Nha Trang T its Me the Me 250 250 BC known as Au Lac is conducting and a new kingdom Vietnam have have Vietnam bronze drums bronze from northern from been found as been found day capital of Hanoi. the region and the region excavations at excavations the likeness of of the likeness Archaeologists Archaeologists close to the modern- by a Chinese warlord far afield as the far island of Alor, in Alor, island of Antoninus Pius. Antoninus AD 152, bearing bearing AD 152, major traders in major traders Son period were period were Son lion dating from lion dating from a Roman medal- a Roman Bronze Age Age Dong Bronze The people of the The people of Oc-Eo discovered discovered Oc-Eo eastern . eastern established at Co Loa, Van Lang is conquered conquered is Lang Van

430 HISTORY THE EARLY DAYS HISTORY LIBERATION FROM CHINA 431 1010 known today as capital of Vietnam. of capital Emperor Thai Ly To Thanh Long (City of Hanoi, is founded by the Soaring Dragon), . - - - - - and becomes the new ) d d e b ing eet e of . ular fl l d ute – elled. p u b l p uence o octors, ulation p d p o 938 ge of these hbour) p g d e ian infl s for tri l a and Funan d Dang River. Dang d p rovoking the Vi p endence was con now s. The Truong Son s. The Truong The Chinese are p k e – which was char e – which was

of occupation, as d l eman l imate was harsh an Confucianism, on the sea route l ucing its own people to victory in d d. d sed, ll an Ngo Quyen leads his e the In lentiful the d l ica p l e the battle of theBach kicked out of Vietnam p to Cham the Vietnamese move d after a thousand years ( ro s – reinforcing the ro bl uce d and the establishment of , p k d efeate hty northernhty nei me new d g d k ort of ca h it was not to be the last time g p insatia 602 d the Ly dynasty the Chinese, the dynasty the Ly c an were ey ey g rst to be known as the Lac Viet. the Lac as be known to rst much from the Chinese, inc fi ansion, as the c ll k d p a ut a ex our an irrigation wor Thanh (Hanoi). Thanh b d b against Chinese d earne hin a l l tivation, so instea Trieu Quang Phuc ions against Chineseions against ru rule ultimately fail

ened stakes hidden beneath the waters. This hidden beneath the waters. ened stakes l as the Sui Dynasty ll C d p Vietnam was soon hism to Vietnam,whi e including Bon Ly and reconquers Vietnam, Vietnam, reconquers with its capital Dai La Rebellions by leaders d erors of the Ly dynasty, founded by Ly Thai To. founded by Ly dynasty, erors of the Ly b es an dd p k ia. The Chinese intro rogress that saw the introduction of an elaborate rogress that saw . y westwar d p rst Vietnamese dynasty, the Hung, who ruled over the kingdom of of the kingdom who ruled over the Hung, dynasty, Vietnamese rst e re y Viets d d l l ars l In ood control and cultivation s on shar d fl to rice cu -sca p of life.’ As more food became of life.’ d rst university. Durin rst university. ll 446 ff with them the scientifi isations an scho l d eriod of to 6th centuries, revente d sta ‘ p d p y tyranny, force y tyranny, , forcing the Vietnamese to see b

d Bu Mahayana ong the coast. d l e d vancement of and the Chinese d s carrie sacks the capital invades Champa, Champa, invades d of Simhapura and k deteriorate. China China deteriorate. ale their shi an Every country has a creation myth and Vietnam is no exception. The Vietnamese are are Vietnamese The exception. is no Vietnam and myth has a creation country Every and the fairy Quan Lac Long Lord Dragon of a union from descended be to supposed with their 50 migrating sons, 100 producing fruitful, was Their relationship Co. Au These the sea. to with their father travelling half the other the mountains and to mother fi the founded sons the were people whose Lang, Van IN THE BEGINNING… THE IN p kingdom of Champa Champa of kingdom the Bach Dang river in a feigned retreat, only to counter-attack and the Bach Dang river in a feigned retreat, only to counter-attack From the 11th From to 13th Vietnamese centuries, inde However, the ear However, During this era, Vietnam was a plunders a 50-tonne p on ountains p atriot Ngo Quyen defeated Chinese forces by luring the Chinese rought Theravada Buddhism and Hinduism and Hinduism Buddhism rought Theravada otanists an ice as the he Vietnamese would tussle with their mi errain unsuite he a he country’s fi he country’s wo great civi ween China an rom the 3r Relations between the golden Buddha statue. ended 1000 years of Chinese rule (thou Khmer and the Cham launched attacks on Vietnam,Khmer but all were re and the Cham launched attacks t t solidated under the em system for dyke p Liberation from colla dynasty the early 10th In century the Tang etnamese AD 938 to launched a revolt against Chinese rule. In ism an b M t b t south a t t r M numerous sma acterise f im u ex This was a . l : - - d d d the ). ur d ing o eating e d efeate ahea p ll d erent rising by d dom. ff i p g and d s Binh Ngo Dai endent na- Champa an ( of the era. The p k y 15th century, l in 1377 and 1383. l Cham forces led by Dao. He Dao. He er for recor dynasty. By 1428, dynasty. ica 14th century g untain Tong andTong lay siege to oo of the South- g p p o king Che Bong Nga kill b , the stain of their his capital Thang Long Viet Emperor Due Tran Le Loi trave a uest of Chinauest of the in these are d . d p : q d act on Vietnamese civi am to attac ansion southwards and southwards ansion so ty b aign to take over Chamaign to take p oet Nguyen Trai, Le Loi’s oet Nguyen Trai, d l p wn m p p o eriod e the erce spirit of independence for more on this battle for more on p Tran Hun Tran d the l eet on eet anne ur s fi ’ ut at no time have we suf- ut at no time have 89 l ll 1288 his con o b p arked the Lamarked Son U itions, an e exhauste d , rovi p b d in the occupation of its capita l regions an asting im l p d l enera ete see our were a ( 500,000 of them – pushe 500,000 of g , he p tra

b pl ll k a d d l away; a away; ames of almost d fl as Ngo Quyen in one of the most cele in one of the most as Ngo Quyen ce to ce the Mongol fl history by spearing The Mongols invade ) Dai Viet but General minate Le Loi s Loi Le the Bach Dang River. sharpened stakes on on stakes sharpened l ave t n. We have have n. We wrote of this . l ) le against the Chinese es – a o s in severa is Tran HungTran Dao repeats s p d e d p d cial for the Chinese Min of Vietnam in the ear again o ati n country to the north…We have sometimes have n country to the north…We n l eo s g e washe not suffi p b hor l ld ai Khan com f her an to consolidate control of the Cham of the control an to consolidate kin o bl erupte g 1380–1442 1076 d not ht to cross Vietnamese territory. The Vietnamese re- ht to cross Vietnamese territory. and location sometimes powerfu contro ( hilanthro ( g k d oi wn civili ld p o oss that was to have a oss that was to have

l s L an le long ago established Vietnam as an inde k s in Vietnamese history e m a lack uaranteed to the ions ha p p The Vietnamese the ri g o ll d eo e e to serve as an offi ut the Mongo warrior Ku warrior r L b p the present-day city defeat Cham forces. g l d b of Nanning, and later a decisive battle near Ly Thuong,Ly attack the Sung Chinese and win e , n with it their crimes. military, led by General re s to the south, which cu ur d o l -13th century. For his next his tric For -13th century. een wea wn rivers, our own customs an ll rn Mountains wou rn Mountains i ered fr rom those of the forei gnominy cou gnominy d d a b f Following Le Loi’s victory Le over the Chinese, Loi’s Following O t o f i e Were the water of the Eastern Sea to Were Le Loi cam and his successors launched a hina Bites Back hina Bites eman oet Nguyen Trai oet Nguyen Trai rated scal an oca isation. Heavy taxation an taxation isation. Heavy six centuries later, it articulated the country six centuries later, fuse refusin countryside to rally the slowly but surely be slowly taking the national archives and some of the country’s intellectuals and some of the country’s backtaking the national archives – a to Nanjing companion in arms, wrote his infamous Great Proclamation companion in arms, wrote his infamous Great Proclamation l Ent wealthy 1418 In l C The Chinese too l p Mongo d utilising acute military acumen by re Dang River, them at Bach b Meanwhile, the Vietnamese the ex their continued Meanwhile, Bach Dang Agai the same tactics They met their match in the revere Cao). Still mi

The remains vital. institutions and maintains many maintains many traditions the of Taylor. 1010–1225 Wet rice cultivation cultivation rice Wet and attitude Ly dynastyLy Vietnam Under the 200-year today, try today, in shaping the by Keith Weller Weller Keith by Confucianism and its year occupation occupation year Birth of Vietnam Birth of For a closer look look a closer For at China’s 1000- at China’s Chinese including era was instrumental instrumental was country’s outlook outlook country’s of Vietnam, which Vietnam, of civil service structure.

432 HISTORY CHINA BITES BACK HISTORY THE COMING OF THE EUROPEANS 433

1524 icts rage rage icts fl quoc ngu, this day. around Hue). around was French French was missionaries missionaries (1591–1660), (1591–1660), of . of ing Jesuit Alexan- Jesuit life as humble life dre de Rhodes de Rhodes dre what was then what was backwater of a of backwater (HCMC) began began (HCMC) 16th century, a century, 16th the Latin-based the Latin-based prominent early early prominent ese is written to to is written ese Khmer village in Khmer village One of the most the most of One Minh City Ho Chi the eastern edge edge the eastern widely lauded for widely lauded for his work in devis- his work Prey Nokor in the in the Nokor Prey in which Vietnam- in which phonetic alphabet between the Trinh feudal con feudal

A period ofinstability ------s y y a Long) and the Nguyen from the north (Thang and warfare ensues as from the South (based d pa er ro ow p p onr ll Viet were p , anded d e of the p otential g p a greater oused the roclaimed d p 1516 p of Cham of . d ines, which was ines, which Catholicism. Chinese at Faifo d Delta pp in 1516 an land at Danang, g g Vietnam. They set set They Vietnam. of . Faifo (present-day tured Saigon and the up a trading post in g Portuguese Portuguese traders lied to the Nguyen. B p European interest in sparking the start of . Hoi and An) introduce . pp a i art, the Nguyen ex e to understand Vietnam ic Church has ha p l p egan to migrate southwar egan to e with Vietnam, up setting b n As d ict ict i e fl le hout much of the 17th and 18th art wea because their Dutch pl g p p tion of the Phili 1471 eo p p . royal family. hy of take from the rich and redistribute hy of take p egan to tra in to their territory in to their ular and in less than a decade they control b territories in the Mekon d p e those of the Japanese an Japanese e those of the on the kingdom of a humbling defeat rince and his family. Nguyen Lu became king rince and his family. g n than 60,000 Cham Cham 60,000 than o uence. For their uence. For d p fl king and most of the p hiloso uests, the Tay Son Rebels overthrew the Trinh uests, the Tay ors came ashore at Danan ors came ashore Champa, killing more 36,000, including the l p the Cham The Vietnamese in q soldiers and capturing ted in the town of Tay Son near Qui Nhon, osten ted in the town of Tay ean nations were interested in Vietnam’s in Vietnam’s ean nations were interested onse, the third brother, Nguyen Hue, Nguyen Hue, onse, the third brother, d p uyen Nhac was crowned kin an on any countryan on any ay Quy Nhon in 1471. This 1471. in Quy Nhon the en was ay p p ongsi eror , thus beginning the Nguyen dynasty. . With the exce g h l d ) p ers move l unitive taxes of the Nguyen family. The Tay Son Rebels, The Tay unitive taxes of the Nguyen family. p uese sai owerful Trinh Lords were later Le the kings who ruled owerful Trinh uth were the failed in their Nguyen Lords. The Trinh y a party fo During the of Dominican missionaries. ony a ony g p anish for 400 years, the Catho anish for 400 o ower an b l ain, absorbin

heroes. 1428 resent- p p g etnamt eror Quang Trung. In 1789 Nguyen Hue’s armed forces over Nguyen Hue’s 1789 In eror Quang Trung. It Over the Peo It Over d p i co p l g es the Portuguese es the Portuguese the S orts the Nguyen, in to subdue owe d o ff itary oor. It was clearly It was clearly oor. ll l y the S p b Son Rebellio rst Portu eca

fi rst in the long line d act on V d y fi is revered as one of rth. T e p Continuing their con In the South, Nguyen Anh, a rare survivor the original Nguyen In from Le Loi triumphs over l resent-day Hoi An Hoi resent-day the nation’s greatest himself emperor, the of the Le dynasty. He ower vacuum. In res ower vacuum. In u o the his time, several Euro m the Chinese, declaring Lords – yes, know your Nguyens if you ho of the South, while N ese history! – gradually overcame the rebels. In 1802 Nguyen Anh ese history! rebels. In – gradually overcame the claimed himself Em whelmingly defeated the Chinese army at Dong Da in another of the at Dong Da in another whelmingly defeated the Chinese army greatest hits of Vietnamese history p t they ca 1783 led the whole of central Vietnam. In Ta a rebellion eru 1765 In sibly against the was matched by the Portuguese armaments su was matched by the Portuguese t nam found itself divided in two throu in two nam found itself divided No sistent e r i Lordin events a dress rehearsal for the tumultuous of the 20th In century ing (p The Coming of the Europeans of the Coming The The Vijaya, near Vijaya, himself Em and were jockeying for in southwards a Lords in the North, while the Chinese advanta moved in to take commercia as Vietnamese sett as a mi as they were known, were led by the brothers Nguyen, who es South, killing the reigning soon fo sort of Robin Hood–like centuries. The OLIVIER CIRENDINI / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

- - - - - y h A l k- c . of uis ons n g p e p ashes r l city. F l timate l uences icies of the eton of the l . l ublic works, e erial court. p k p ort to consoli art of Vietnam ff p aid by the French . p eror Thieu Tri’s im eror Thieu Tri’s ly salt and wea support among the t it going . p the French attacked attacked the French d , eatedly and, at times, p win over conservative Western infl Western Lao territory. C Lao territory. pp p ll d tain Francis Garnier, os Garnier, tain Francis ernise the country quic icious circumstances and p apart the s ity to the West u to the West ity d p l k ia an osed on the im Europeans an in 1847, when the when an in 1847, l d p . g d the expansionist po act on the rural economy. Such act on the rural economy. o hosti to mo d b onse to Em p d d p vai , with Hue as its new capita Hue , with e on–Hanoi railway and drainin railway on–Hanoi l d g e -arme rojects were funded by heavy govern rojects were funded by heavy uis, instead took over where Du r erors in sus ll p p p r . P ues may have earne have ues may

e this antipathy to a this antipathy l » The today in Long d s an for royal succession that was notable for v e g t va d l ationism an s l s. These lomacy eo i uest of the North . p p l q eror Minh Mang, worked to strengthen the state. to strengthen worked Mang, eror Minh p osition, a calculatedmove to exten itiona . uis, a merchant seeking to su na d p d e out in an attempt to pic e out in an attempt p eror Tu Duc signed a treaty that gave the French the the French that gave Duc signed a treaty eror Tu k le then be o p invasions. h Tak ro ut the iso gg rovinces of (the southern rovinces of Cochinchina b s, the death of em b iti c p

p d atched to rein in Du d n ynasties, pushing into Cam ynasties, pushing alling treatment of Vietnamese workers p f the elite y Nguyen emperors continue y Nguyen emperors itions, an d an e l recarious l o d pp Khmer empire Mekong Delta and ra

rofoundly hostile to Catholicism, which he saw as a threat to Con he saw to Catholicism, which rofoundly hostile strifeand Siamese p Ethnic Vietnamese s d p settlers arrive in the advantage of Khmer 17th century T the French-colonial era). However, over the next four decades the However, era). the French-colonial ing Saigon region, taking taking region, Saigon weaknesses, who are torn apart by internal Fr

and began a con g d eror Gia Longeror Gia returned in an e values to Confucian alace cou e few weeks after the death of Tu Duc in 1883 few weeks after the death of Tu i-comic stru p p g A colonial authorities carried out ambitious The French In 1872 Jean Du Jean 1872 In The returntra to Gia Long’s son, Em Gia Long’s The ear erations became notorious for the abysmal wages erations became notorious for the abysmal wages ite at home, risonment of Catholic missionaries. Saigon was seized in early 1859 risonment of Catholic missionaries. p l y enough to compete with the we o such as the construction of the Sai three eastern element its fracture ment taxes which had a devastating im tensibly dis p l Th military activity in Vietnam be ’s Em date his fucian tra in two centuries, Vietnam centuries, unite was in two The and, in 1862, Em French colonial venture in Indochina faltered re colonial venture in Indochina French with Thai left off cost the Nguyen emperors as theycost the Nguyen emperors fai prece tra via the Red River, seized the Hanoi Citadel. Ca seized the Hanoi via the Red River, Navy attacked Danang harbour in res attacked Navy e and the a the Mekong Delta swam the Mekong heavy-handed French di French heavy-handed only the reckless adventures of a few mavericks ke only the reckless adventures of a few mavericks He was He durin of was im and the Treaty Hue quoc 1651 rst rst fi Vietnamese) Vietnamese) Dictionarium Dictionarium Annamiticum Annamiticum The The dictionary, the dictionary, of of ngu (Romanised Vietnam Nguyen Nguyen Nguyen Nguyen Lords Tay Son Mac of Lords Trinh Chinese Chinese rule Later Le Ho Post-Tran Ly Tran Dinh Early Le Ngo Ngo D y n a s t i e s

Alexandre de Rhodes. de Alexandre is produced, following » » » » » » » » » » » » » » 1802–1945 AD 1802–1945 of the South the South of AD 1558–1778 AD 1788–1802 1527–1592 AD 1527–1592 the North AD 1539–1787 1414–1427 AD 1414–1427 AD 1428–1524 1400–1407 AD 1400–1407 AD 1407–1413 1010–1225 AD 1010–1225 AD 1225–1400 968–980 AD AD 980–1009 939–965 AD 939–965 Lusitanum et Latinum, Latinum, et Lusitanum years of work by Father

434 HISTORY THE TRADITIONALISTS PREVAIL HISTORY INDEPENDENCE ASPIRATIONS 435 1883 this period. this Taoism. Buddhism across the across a peculiarly a peculiarly Vietnamese Vietnamese animism and were erected erected were When Ho Chi liberally from from liberally the American the American centuries and centuries and borrowed and borrowed Minh received Minh received Declaration of of Declaration Minh declared Minh declared Between Between 1944 many pagodas pagodas many Independence. Buddhism, but Buddhism, Services (OSS; (OSS; Services it was not pure not pure it was today the CIA). the CIA). today from the US Of- the US from fice of Strategic Strategic of fice independence in independence blend mixed with blend mixed flourished during flourished during the 17th and 18th the 17th agents at his side agents ancestor worship, worship, ancestor 1945, he had OSS he had OSS 1945, funding and arms country. However, However, country. and 1945, the Viet Viet the and 1945, active resistance resistance active control, although although control, on the Vietnamese, 70 years of colonial marking the start of

------) continues throughout throughout continues a d Treaty of Protectorate e The French impose the d rst ish ucate bl anese s was so the an for l d p ame of p erstoo hi g ey to an Go East d their k ( activities l l overnment a ence. It was 1862 g un d d ernisation of d s to Ja irations of the d l . itica l utionary Youth p l o n 1925. T against their pa against their epen p i (Cochinchine). from the pu from as d attacks on both d ist an Emperor Duc Tu y channe d d ectua l l Following French ist aspirations oftenist aspirations resence of Ja France, renaming l ll Delta provinces to u them Cochinchinathem na, p ists were the commu p s in Danang and Saigon, l y quite corrupt, was y quite corrupt, with which to e signs a treatyceding o hi l d control of the Mekong , is convoluted. The, is convoluted. fi came to prominence, as p dl )

ying in France. u ective d ff onia d l ege uprising in the future. Phan ernisation was the ernisation was e l 436 ll e script of nom d d l s the Vichy French government, the Vichy French stu rst rst d d out extensive atform, the Viet was, from Minh esire of many Vietnamese many esire of for in quoc ngu d see p pl

d 1802 ( f s n Canton, C the French orchestrate the French i uiesced to the atriotic an d

200 years. 200 ist Vietnamese inte . ramatic attempt to poison the French to poison the ramatic attempt l q p though a h that mo d l d , the d n carrie e a far easier too The country is i d d b of the anti-co

easants – an l y the Vietnamese Communist Party. In 1941 In y the Vietnamese Communist Party. ise l ution M time in more than than more in time p b Emperor Gia Long er the surface.er the Nationa ld is born, ruling over b ucation of the masses, the mo ucation of the masses, the spiration . anese left the French administration in charge anese left the French Vietnam until 1945. d hi to sen of the country and, for a time, Vietnam was the Nguyen dynasty s to a d reunited for the fi takes the throne and in the accession of Emperor Bao Dai in 1925, of Emperor Bao Dai in the accession l p at the time an at the time ochina was the Vietnam Revo g d perio orate Chinese-sty A d l d b ragmatic, ld istri un o C ing with the French towar ing with the French ica a y the p d ance of the French. This range of the French. ance l d k

d fi unity H ll l d d anne the e e ite its nationa onia e to tune into the frustrations an e to tune into the frustrations l y d d p this wou ist sentiment an ist sentiment pl b an bl l minate i. wor ecia d l

ruary 1930 l eare court in Hue, a courtin Hue, d p d b l e ise 1765 anese forces, an l pp d p 25 years. 25 the Viet which resiste Minh, in Fe n Hano d i d for nationa tion, dominated by Ho’s communists. However, as well as a com communists. However, tion, dominated by Ho’s into open into open e thrones, as one emperor after thrones, as another turne ing patriots soon rea ing patriots ence simmere d l p as Ja d d d d s for fairer ation – es endent Vietnam. Boi Chau Phan launched the Dong Du ll s in Vietnam. The Ja l son d p y with a view to fomenting a successfu i p u led by the brothers d control of the whole Lea The story is a of Vietnamese ways which in many communism, The imperia p ucators rea hen France fell to Nazi in 1940, the Indochinese Germany in 1940, the Indochinese fell to Nazi hen France arxist grouping in In country over the next uring WWII. Des epen o arr d The Tay SonThe Rebellion Tay roo he nee he masses than the e he economy an he economy ronage. This cu Nguyen, and they take erupts near Quy Nhon, Tru Chinh favoure Tru its ince as we political biography of Ho Chi Minh Chi Minh political biography of Ho succee t t WWII & Famine W d a munist, Ho M nists, who were a p man t Rise the of Communist the most successfu However, t e movement which stu t Throughout co the d perio ing of patriotic g Independence of –collaborators ac of Vichy France–collaborators League, foun inde erupte centre of nationa musica Ho forme Ho at this time that the Roman script o at this time that the Roman who was just 12 years o who was just of the day-to-day runnin of the day-to-day

- - ers ers Ho ff d for a d oth the 1940 e rew to a b ll d Japanese ion North reaches inreaches d ll b to

The Japanese d d uring this pe ectionately ectionately d the use of military government o government begins, as the pro– . s an over administration. e facilities in return for d Vichy France colonial colonial France Vichy the continued control k occupation of Vietnam ercely nationalistic nationalistic ercely oo

arge swathes of the coun arge swathes l

rst rst y force oppose y force d l e fl with rst time in 30 years, and time in 30 years, rst ll d fi 1930s ine Europe, the French an French Europe, the b -August, Ho Chi Minh ca Chi Minh -August, Ho ation. However, as WWII WWII as However, ation. d d p an Marxism gains in l formation of three popularity with the popularity the with Secretary General. Secretary which later unite to eath. The on Communist parties, Tran PhuTran as the fi d form the Vietnamese Communist Party with to c famine in which perhaps two mi perhaps two in which c famine d anese occuanese

in main p d e ld assistance from the US government government the US assistance from 1925 e starve fi a horri d l d y in the north. In mi y in the north. In l ar Japanese presence in Vietnam presence an the Viet was Minh, Japanese the saw its opportunity to stri saw the Viet Minh l establishing the d d political agitation, agitation, political of the Vietnamese in southern China, southern China, in Communist Party. Communist towards organised League of Vietnam Ho Chi Minh moves es, cause an early incarnation incarnation early an Revolutionary Youth the ravages of Ja ravages the k d y . As events unfo d out an d False Dawn False are ll ose, Japanese rice requisitions, com requisitions, rice ose, Japanese l p the Vietnamese peop French an French rio A contro of 1945 the Viet By the spring Minh particu try, s c fe Chi Minh receive Chi Minh quoc cial. Born Nguyen Tat Thanh near Vinh in 1890, he was educated in Hue and in Hue educated he was in 1890, Vinh Thanh near Tat Born Nguyen cial. ffi century late 19th and promoting are phased out. ngu alphabet for In 1911 he signed up as a cook’s apprentice on a French ship, sailing to North America, America, North to sailing ship, on a French apprentice up as a cook’s In 1911 he signed (including languages a number of he mastered where , to moved Ho Chi Minh govern- French the obliged of rulers the English 1930s the early During The return of the French compelled the Viet Minh to conduct a guerrilla war, which a guerrilla war, conduct Minh to Viet the compelled the French of The return domi- His image Bac Ho. of the reputation preserve to hard has worked The party refer him as Bac Ho (‘Uncle Ho’) today. refer sweep- snow as a gardener, and France in England While odd-jobbing and Europe. Africa develop. to began consciousness his political and stoker, retoucher photo waiter, er, Indochinese of the issue promote to and ) and began German French, English, in 1920 Party Communist the French member of a founding He was independence. Youth the Revolutionary he founded where China, in to travelled and later Vietnam. of League to he travelled his release After activities. his revolutionary Ho for imprisoning ment by the for Vietnam to In 1941 he returned and China. the USSR scholar-o aff Vietnamese Many life. his momentous during pseudonyms many adopted As Vietnam. of the independence which was of the goal Minh, Viet the founded and his Revolution, August the Ho Chi Minh led 1945, August in surrender to prepared Vietnam. much of throughout control then established forces Ho then led at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. the colonists against victory led to ultimately North’s the see to lived – he never 1969 in September until his death Vietnam North the South. over victory and most without a Ho statue, is complete – no town Vietnam contemporary nates the to contrast is in stark personality This cult of his name. in a museum have cities check out Ho Chi Minh, the excellent Ho, more For his life. with which Ho lived simplicity J William Duiker. biography by Father of the nation, Ho Chi Minh (Bringer of Light) was the son of a fi of the son Light) was of Ho Chi Minh (Bringer the nation, of Father UNCLE OF THE PEOPLE The Romanised Vietnamese grows in Chinese-style scripts education. Traditional Traditional education. popularity as a means of eradicatingof illiteracy

436 HISTORY A FALSE DAWN HISTORY WAR WITH THE FRENCH 437 1946 ghting in in ghting fi hero. children. police state. state. police Viet Minh War. Minh Viet as a national under French under French of dissidents, dissidents, of very effective effective very North, Ho Chi North, informers, and informers, ruthless police police ruthless Minh created a Minh created their children’s their children’s tunnel network A1 at Dien Bien A1 at Dien Bien tions by a huge a huge tions by the blacklisting the blacklisting didn’t and he is didn’t with explosives. with explosives. Viet Minh dug a Viet The regime was was The regime fuse in case the in case fuse today honoured honoured today self as a human self defences on Hill defences In May 1954 the In May detonator failed. failed. detonator In Hanoi and the characterised by by characterised Luckily for him it Luckily for Comrade Sapper Comrade volunteered him- volunteered power, denuncia- power, Phu and rigged it Phu and rigged Nguyen Van Bach Van Nguyen network of secret secret of network their children and their children colonialists erupt Strained relations into open open into marking the start of

Hanoi and , ------forces and the French e d d d d between the Viet Minh I the eight-year Franco– eight-year the lla d bl his on, are . egan ene d l d rove b p erc ar p l ec er 1946, eting for d b ose an ition with t commu p l l l ragge

overnment, 1945 remain for d ll e Lec g artment ask east in name. rivate militia, eeming them ld l p ay siege, more siege, ay p d much of Viet pp once more. once y coa i Ho Chi Minh d , Ho wrote eight , Ho egan a guerri d l to ha k d y an unwinna e b d s Hanoi. Ho trie Ho s Hanoi. l ation ll 2 September in d eeing the Chineseeeing p fl independence on Ba Dinh Square in s you wi erio their authority and Ho Chi Minh an Chi Minh Ho p impose colonial rule rule colonial impose ism, the French ism, the French dd d ues Phi l er north of the 16th Par timate central Hanoi, but the to the Viet at Dien Minh q hong in Novem l proclaims Vietnamese French aim to reassert d towar d p You can kill 10 of my men can kill 10 of my You d ‘ . s were Jac p ere l of Vietnam, at ower in a sha ower in l ers reacted to Ho’s declaration ers reacted to Ho’s d uth p p

, where they wou er 1945, Ho Chi Minh Chi Minh Ho er 1945, étente with the Viet Minh so p ld b d ay, the Geneva Conference o ay, . ite massive US ai ite massive US ooding ooding fl d in favour of the new of in favour p ing of Hai ation forces in Vietnam:ation forces Chinese d tem ll p ians, the Viet Minh lies anese surren l s surren p aratroo p p p in the p 10% of North h . Des million people. million l icate e out in Hanoi, an e out in Hanoi, ut even at those o so famine in which owing

ians, the requisitions and of Japanese rice k b dies, around two orary return of the French, orary return of the French, l The combination ll mid-1940s o bd Vietnamese nationa p ro d ing civi we have come to reclaim our inheritance’ we have er French genera er French ‘ b widespread widespread to regain contro t the Ja leads a disastrous to k b Vietnam’s population enda of the Potsdam Conference of 1945 was Conference Potsdam enda of the d p renc ghting, the Viet contro Minh g uld d anese occu s. On 2 Se s. On F o ing their way southwar ing their way y in Hanoi. Throughout this y in Hanoi. p p s of civi tem k ll t a tem d p . e acce of yours, p y attac ut as the months of Chinese occu h w anese forces, the French, and Viet com Minh anese forces, the French, re ll etermine s b h ld b i p ma d ouring . On 7 May 1954, after a 57- ouring Laos. On 7 May d . This defeat brought an end to the French colonial ad . This defeat brought an end to the French k manage d b ) t d ochina. The fo resident Harry Truman and the US State De the US and Truman resident Harry 1941 . owing the French she owing the French d t years h p hun 121 ence ll h on to acce ghting the the ghting d rising, later known as the August Revolution. Meanwhile in rising, Revolution. August as the known later Meanwhile d it i to the mountains to regrou g . Fighting soon (p e i d l p ence at a ra ence at ong-term threat than the Chinese. The French were to stay for were to stay Chinese.ong-term threat than the The French d n neigh l e ll en ’ d i d U e W d p Vietnam, Dai a Bao

fl k l e e to reassert their contro en h aign. On 24 Se aign. On 24 acate them, d for the League for eci p p fter years of fi eight footnote on the a footnote on Ho Chi Minh forms bl in the South the Viet Minh soon he soon South the Viet in the Minh movement seeking seeking movement e d ar independence from independence from the VietMinh (short pl e French ha e French A In the face of In In the north, Chinese Kuomintang troo the north, Chinese Kuomintang In When the British arrived in Saigon anarchy ruled with arrived in Saigon anarchy When the British A d the Independence of e next e d h Vietnam), a liberation enture in In ived in Saigon, declaring ived in Saigon, declaring Japanese occupation. Japanese han 10,000 starving French troo han 10,000 starving French o unrave o he remaining Ja he disarming of Ja he disarming or every one I orces ve years in returnVietnam for recognising as a free state within the ess of a which of in letters to US to US letters communists an Bien Phu non-communist grou non-communist he However, fo However, centra t v f nam an una it was u nism throughout Asia, for the French t f th W T t l fi r allel and the Briti allel and the t ing for US aid, but received no re aid, but received no ing for US t in general u general an war. As Ho said to the French at the outset: at said to the French As Ho war. France and fi and France cam will win. hegemony. When armed French When armed French hegemony. Frenc Kuomintang wou Kuomintang

. - - - - - y y y ) d d d d l- l a er b b e e

l

d b rst ll fi d o 177 i d ublic e eft to efeat d e k l l l p north d high 1960 y ehin l s y feare ers who the free so ays; an ays; l l l ; b y, d uring the see p een l oth Diem d ( d b b

The National hist monas

d risonment of ower. Tens of Tens ower. d p p dd Liberation Front Front Liberation severa d ective itary ru no car no cial visit to the ff l ffi e the ‘American War’. Viet Cong) launch a d of 300 of 300 guerrilla war against d (better known as the s, were denounced d the Diem government government Diem the y 900,000 refugees, in the South, sparking y e u g l l hters ha b

g s execute

d l osing Bu , the South was ru , the South was l d s 1957 o y anti-communist Catho ’ l ers for Vietnamese casua e , c y anti-Diem unrest l l y 1956. In the course of the the course of y 1956. In b b l the operation in Novem threw its support of the Democratic Re

d miracle man’ of Asia. As time miracle man’ d ‘ p d e 1955 sea for a perio for a erce e l the private armies of the Hoa Hoa the private armies of the l fi m an exchange the of prisoners; power fair d k e , as the Americans right s d y a string of mi d Vietnam is d l the . ll e b the communist North ld

an ut the French ha French ut the ity an ity d either side of d l d ergy, which inc ergy, ate d b i hbours and arrested. Hasty trials re hbours and arrested. Hasty u l y strengthene e ut the genera e l d l g b . fl i y tyrannica d b ).

l l ia m d l days to relocate to anning opposition parties. He a anning opposition parties. He icate an and ict, and e, her including his sister-in-law , Madame including his sister-in-law overnment immediately set out to elimi l b ulation that threatened its d (

g hist c ‘temporarily’ divided divided ‘temporarily’ g cant people are given 300 p d o ections on 20 Ju at the 17th Parallel into l dd tna p d. y hi l win with a massive majority. During the win with a massive majority. e s an utions inc utions e e l s were signe Bu k d ld d until nationwide electionsnationwide until could be held d ) . there are no exact there are no num ics, who ha l fl the con to y , a d; e, Diem conso l e d b 1954

icies d e. Reso l e across the 17the across Para ections were never he d ecame increasing l rth Vi rth ase was signifi Indochina. l e bl ents an b l b o d y the South was roc e e French forces l d of nationwi g his po arate South Vietna arate rother. Diem was succee Diem rother. egan to see Diem as a d in to a dramatic close b b w N p 000 woun , ectively became First Lady Dien Bien Phu comes otiate an en an otiate ld end of colonial rule in ff e ut they were certain ay free-passage perio ay on marking 7 May, the ghters as the siege of surrender to Viet Minh g fi b d his 48 itary coup. A group of young genera l In the ear In Nationwi d d ring to the ta ring to near the 17thnear the Parallel ic. His power ic. His temporary’ River Ben Hai zones at the Vietnam division of into two few years of his ru passage of peop passage went on Diem an Hao and Cao Dai religious sects. During Diem Hao of the 17th The new Parallel. to security committees by their nei by to security committees mi many of them Catho of them many who e USA, President Eisenhower called him the Eisenhower USA, President 300- nate those elements of the 10,000 and 15,000 executionssulted in between the im and A N The Geneva Accords allowed the leadershi teries, imprisoning mon out power to family members l crime syn ing the Binh Xuyen the ho an ties, A Se After the Geneva Accor to ne b ‘ ( of Vietnam and assert to return control of all territor to Hanoi a government the world publicised self-immolations by monks that shocked 1963. Diem was to go into exi The US university stu university that Ho Chi Minh wou Chi Minh that Ho thousands of landlords, some with only tiny holdin thousands of landlords, some with only tiny Franco–Viet Minh War, more than 35,000 French fi more than 35,000 French War, Minh Franco–Viet continue

dynasty. While the Viet late-1940s The 2002 government under under government Minh retreat to the shot, it is a it shot, their place. ruler of the Nguyen VC are both are VC forge a Vietnamese for Viet Viet Nam for its consulate consulate its in the 1950s, in the 1950s, as the French as the French abbreviations abbreviations Viet Cong and Cong Viet and would not and would in Hanoi on 12 remake of The of remake an embassy in an embassy than 40 years. the Americans the Americans nicknamed the ‘Victor Charlie’. ‘Victor see. Beautifully Beautifully see. tion to Vietnam Vietnam tion to the Vietnamese the Vietnamese The USA closed closed The USA December 1955 December disengaged and disengaged ese communist. communist. ese Quiet American, Quiet capital for more more for capital starring Michael starring means Vietnam- means classic introduc- classic Cong San, which San, Cong moved in to take take in to moved Caine, is a must- Caine, officially re-open re-open officially VC ‘Charlie’, as in ‘Charlie’, VC Emperor Bao Dai, last the French attempt to American soldiers soldiers American mountains to regroup,

438 HISTORY A SEPARATE SOUTH VIETNAM HISTORY THE NORTH–SOUTH WAR 439 is an 1965 es bombing es fi of the war. of their trade. battlefront, battlefront, of countless countless of anthology of anthology of VC’s military military VC’s capacity and capacity ensured that ensured photographic photographic weakened the weakened on all sides of of on all sides The American Requiem work from the from work soldiers would would soldiers play a decisive a decisive play the short-term the short-term success, but in success, War in Vietnam Vietnam in War correspondents correspondents fitting tribute to to fitting tribute was a long-term a long-term was work from fallen fallen from work it fundamentally it fundamentally journalists. For a For journalists. claimed the lives claimed the lives role in the future future in the role look at the finest look at the finest The Lyndon Johnson the conflict and a the conflict North Vietnamese North Vietnamese To preventTo the total intensi troops to the South. the troops to of American combat regime, US President l of North Vietnam and - - - - - ) collapse of the Saigon d approves the dispatch ro ost Ho ita . l US tion p , cer p cial into y p ffi ened. d ARVN kl ( aign for pp p uic q units down 1964 ) , later known was assisting to an o istrict ca ) rst time in p g d ortant element p . NVA read rural unrest, rural read ll ( itary conscri NLF uent research sug cially at war, it it war, at cially l p ffi ( q Pierce Arrow and egan a Cam egan a ansion. Vietnam was Although the US is incident. of for the fi b mi launches Operation p e with the VC. In 1964 e with the VC. In

l osing a l y to evacuate an Hue not o l d e in the country, as well e in the country, retaliation for the Gulf d bombs North Vietnam ublic of Vietnam g . att out to fa p b an b l e, peasants were move e, peasants a overnment reached a new na d d g s – but American soldiers would s – but American soldiers es. A few days later, the US Con the US later, es. A few days rovocation: one shi p on g p le. In 1950 US advisers rolled into advisers rolled 1950 US le. In 1963 rst of thousands of such missions rst of thousands g r pp into power. into s seeme aign, the Diem government aign, the Diem lashed ashore at Danang in . lashed ashore at Danang in March d onger just a usiness, universa l p p arty, faced with wides with faced arty, ed US$2 billion ed US$2 y 1965 the Saigon government was on its y 1965 the Saigon government group of young b l an p l South Vietnam’s y one senior South Vietnamese offi army s s ort in 2005, the second one never ha l pp p p which brings a new and killed in a coup y got out of contro got out president Ngo Dinh backed by the USA, Diem is overthrown overthrown is Diem . for le road and rail brid d e. To stem the ti stem e. To s military commanders g d high r d its cam aign to liberate the South began in 1959. The the South began in 1959. aign to liberate assed the Tonkin Gulf Resolution which gave the which gave Gulf Resolution assed the Tonkin l o . By ear p d p oint in US strategyoint in US came with the Gulf l resident Lyndon Johnson’s orders, 64 sorties un Johnson’s resident Lyndon was formed. outh Wa outh er month. The was South ene p ) p . The army was getting rea . The was getting army p p Err S d VC e of (

d the North Vietnamese coast. Subse reo g n aunche ower to take any action any in Vietnamower to take without congressional l ff l s on the North – the fi o 1962 p b the centra 2000 d d that things ha that things , yet on in 10 years om cati d strategic hamlets’ support the VC potential in order to deny k fi ‘ lemented and the National Liberation Front Liberation Front the National lemented and b combat troo rst US ‘forest is gold.’ . of the countrysi p for the South it was no for the South it was no l l een woun d o ed b s the military situation of the Sai s the NLF n decisive turning city of Ninh Binh is Americans saw France’s war in Indochina as an im war in Indochina France’s Americans saw reache declared Vietnam’s rst national park as However, on US However, A A A A

d d ntr fi Park, just west of the Cuc Phuong National National Phuong Cuc Ho Chi Minh declares ational Security Agency re hi Minh Trai hi Minh he resident the oked attack o attack oked o emain on Vietnamese soil for the next 25 years. As early as 1954 ecognise hat would hit every sin he next domino and could not to he Ho Chi Minh Trai Chi Minh he Ho he Recti housands more. In 1956, the 1956, In more. housands ortifi military aid to the French to military aid to the French as the Viet Con Hanoi began sending regular North Vietnamese began sending regular North Army Hanoi dir, the fi dir, t gress overwhelmingly p N leashed ha v gests that there was a certain degree of t r Danang, an the Cavalr Enter T ha each wee f t C t North– The The cam Communists’ t r c contro was im in the worldwide struggle against communist ex as 4000 of North Vietnam’s 5788 villa as 4000 of North Vietnam’s a secret South Vietnamese raid, and accordin commando last legs. Desertions of the Re from the Army of Tonkin Incident. Two US destroyers claimed to have come under un have destroyers claimed to US Two Incident. of Tonkin Vietnam, to train local troo ostensibly

- - - - k d d, ht. e ian on ow l g era VC ll k itary p b g l . This i risen of the inate l ) 1970 assy in d e never re d d fi b numbers. k as ict heavy fl d search and DMZ ‘ in Vietnam in ( l roviding the rovo iversion from ing the Southing the ation. In Hue, ation. In p Nixon’s national p l d d ure of mi security advisor, advisor, security l u u reduction in troop . There1.3 were as the US begins a come start talks in Paris the moo gures gures ha l Le Duc Tho, for the l p Hanoi government, government, Hanoi d d o to , and a major attac p d ea cation’, cation’, ersonne d revent civilian casu ate e d cient recruiting tool recruiting cient l p p ffi p the Lunar New Year, the Lunar New with massive oint in the war. On the oint in the war. of the US em of the US ian d ash against the civi cu l d p l d pacifi ‘ e kl ho k d itary cities. The counter-attac rate l ac aunche l d art a massive b b 16,021 16,021 – a major fai er 1967 the fi er 1967 p e osed to s d l 1969 d b emilitarised Zone re with a series of coor ate p fi l the civi D pp alm and tanks in areas that were alm and tanks in areas u d rise p p dedicated to towns. As the TV cameras ro p o cation involved developingcation involved a pro- h extensive use of mines and booby After a lifetime d p of heart failure. the VC were not we g , y ers were evacuated so the Americans revolution, Ho Chi Minh dies in Hanoi ecisive turning l ay cease ay in the artially forces could con- US successful: g y sur ) in September 1969, headed by Le Duan. d rising they ha d l y counter-attac He’s succeededHe’s by a p i l . By Decem p l ‘collective leadership,’ leadership,’ ‘collective over the courtyar a d 161 t k d s. ie ons, VC guerrillas continued to in ons, VC guerrillas continued ho iate (p e l to a communist d ar u p so traumatise ie d k l

l d rotect mobile search villages from VC raids, the ll u d . p oin ing heavi s p onry such as na re zones were su ll cia ute o P ut a p s ne b fi Paci re zones’. p iers in the countryiers in an b o 1968 ther a argest of the war, was in argest of the war, ld she l . inc government, for the Saigon ghting o fi

o team too d e d Khe Sanh d l free-fi re z re ‘ t ensive mar ensive The Viet Cong ff . In cities such as Hue . In e an unoffi iers are killed in the er 1965 there were 184,300 were there er 1965 mi US d k the VC, e an launches the Tet b ld ensive My Lai Massacre. s d ing an ff ensive, a surprise urning ase a C. ro this contri ff ise et O et lenty of villagers were nevertheless of villagers were lenty shelled, bombed, strafed or South. Hundreds of of Hundreds South. b l b O b attack on towns and d T T O Saigon. However, the communists misca Saigon. However, Vietnamese civilians p cities throughout the l ation. ation, as the e igence – they imme l l though the US were utter though the US om e, the sing es in more than 100 cities an e s. Although free-fi h ion so l ll u u 636 Americans ha 636 Americans almed. These attacks turned out to be a fairly e almed. These attacks b k p ll Al T

These only strategies were p p p d r the V evastate o o att uerrillas. In some cases, villa uerrillas. In o government civilian infrastructuregovernment in each village, and centra destroy’ and tra soldiers to guard it. To it. To soldiers to guard mi could use heavy wea could use heavy p er, d stri a VC comman p tors an Th 1968 North Vietnamese troo January In b g alties, US Strategie were buzz words in Washington By 1966 the around the country units of soldiers moved and-destroy huntin By Decem By f Even without heavy wea heavy without Even declared free-fi inte an evening of 31 January, as the country ce evening of 31 January, na materia Vietname the US the US the Tet the Tet casualties in ambushes and throu casualties in ambushes the VC to 485,600 US so US to 485,600 trol the countryside by day, while the VC usually controlled it by ni while the VC usually controlled trol the countryside by day, 1967

The ghtingfor fi from the US. T h e War in soldiers soldiers there are 1.3 million poignant tale poignant tale 4 million 4857 4857 US 15 million 3689 3689 US Sorrow of War of Sorrow American GIs. American North had the Numbers by Bao Ninh, a Bao Ninh, by a million of these are spective on the spective same fears and fears same of love and loss and loss love of desires as most as most desires

soldiers from the from soldiers For a human per- For the war, read read the war, that suggests the that suggests experience during experience North Vietnamese North Vietnamese » » » » Vietnamese Vietnamese killed or injured helicopters downed US of tonnes ammunition expended fixed-wing fixed-wing lost aircraft By the end of the year, the South – nearly half

440 HISTORY THE TURNING POINT HISTORY THE TURNING POINT 441 1975 the city. the On 30 scramble to leave leave to scramble Saigon falls to the North Vietnamese, as the last Americans cial line. cial ffi 1973 ublic tolerance of the town in order ict rumbles on. p y fl paper to sign the hostilities, but the All sides put pen to on 27 January 1973, con . stipulating an end to oint p ed swallowing the o had to destro ‘ pp

y 1972 ensive. ff O The North out 1000 US soldiers and 2000 ARVN out 1000 US b the Demilitarized Vietnamese cross Zone (DMZ) at the roclaiming a great victory, roclaiming a great victory, known as the Easter (p 263 ) The Australian contingent who fought in Vietnam, Vietnam, in who fought contingent Australian The ) 263 (p (DMZ; p 158 ) The no-man’s land at the 17th Parallel, dividing Parallel, 17th land at the The no-man’s ) 158 (DMZ; p p 17th parallel to attack South Vietnam and US forces in what became (p 158 ) The real deal: these tunnels haven’t been surgically surgically been tunnels haven’t these deal: The real ) 158 (p (p 291 ) The supply route for the South; the North Vietnamese Vietnamese the North the South; for The supply route ) 291 (p (p 345 ) The Vietnamese dug an incredible and elaborate tunnel and elaborate an incredible dug Vietnamese The ) 345 (p remarked that the remarked y (p 189 ) The strip of sand near Danang where US soldiers dropped in dropped soldiers US where Danang near sand of The strip ) 189 (p (p 164 ) The ancient Citadel was razed to the ground during street-to- the ground to razed The ancient Citadel was ) 164 (p oss. (p 161 ) This was the biggest smokescreen of the war, as the North Viet- North as the the war, of smokescreen the biggest This was ) 161 (p 1971 ensive killed a (p 218 ) The village of My Lai is infamous as the site of one of the worst atroc- worst the one of of as the site My Lai is infamous of The village ) 218 (p . cer bitterl cer troops are either are troops s, but VC losses were more than 10 times higher. cutting the Ho Chi captured or killed. or captured Tunnels Moc Vinh Long Tan Memorial Tan Long My Lai Khe Sanh Ho Chi Minh Hue Citadel Zone Demilitarised China Beach Tunnels Cu Chi p as half its invading Lam Son, aimed at

ave it’ ave » » » » » » » » » North and South Vietnam. After 1954 it became one of the most heavily militarised militarised heavily the most one of it became 1954 After Vietnam. North and South in the world. zones ities in the war, when American GIs massacred hundreds of villagers in . March in villagers of hundreds GIs massacred American when in the war, ities namese massed forces around this US base in 1968 to draw attention away from the from away attention draw in 1968 to base this US around forces massed namese Offensive. Tet coming The American War in Vietnam was the story for a generation. Follow in the footsteps of of in the footsteps Follow a generation. for the story was Vietnam in War American The the story where the sites a visit to with all sides politicians on and journalists soldiers, unfolded. TRACKING THE AMERICAN WAR AMERICAN THE TRACKING mostly based near Vung Tau in the south, is remembered here with the Long Tan Tan with the Long here is remembered in the south, Tau Vung near based mostly Memorial Cr moved soldiers and munitions down this incredible trail through the Truong Son Son Truong the through trail this incredible down and munitions soldiers moved feat. logistical unparalleled Mountains in an almost enlarged for tourists and they mark yet another feat of infrastructural ingenuity. infrastructural of feat another mark yet they and tourists for enlarged for some rest and relaxation. rest some for street fighting in early 1968 when the Americans retook the city from the communists the communists from city the retook Americans 1968 when the fighting in early street occupation. a three-week after network to evade American forces, just 30km from Saigon and right under the noses noses and right under the Saigon 30km from just forces, American evade to network of a US base. s The Tet Off The Tet The VC may have lost the battle, but were on the road to winning lost the battle, The have VC may in calamitous defeat defeat calamitous in hile US generals were hile US

o The ARVN’s Operation troo the war and its casualties reached breaking Minh trail in Laos, ends t W a US offi a US the war. The military US had long been boasting that victory was just the war. the killing and chaos in Saigon beamed into of time. Watching a matter Americans sto their living rooms, many

- - - - t d d p so e l . ll a ians, forc l t just ’ ing of for a d . d er into ursued 1978 Christ ensive b d ‘ p e. Even p e an l d bl ia for the ee om out atroci- out ease of 590 ed turn the ed turn d d l b

b the shattered o

p d an off rovi b d government on on government 7 January 1979. Laos. Thai emonstrations d p ia in an attem overthrowing the the overthrowing d country and later d d sweeping through the Vietnamese d , Vietnamese forces ate further as the l the re art Le Duc Tho o invade Cambodia on on Cambodia invade Christmas Day 1978, p d b Cam d octrine which ca ia an . rotests in the US an rotests in the US . This hel d d CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © aunche ) -time high of 543,400. Vietnamesecivi p onto the streets onto the l o ll art d d b a the USA out of Vietnam. the USA p e ict esca 218 . d ippines an d ll . Anti-war . Anti-war s l p i together Khmer with their y the USA, North Vietnam, ing Cam d ( p with increase p b b an a

d Laos an s ease , d e d at forces an see l d ( . The such rise of organisations d om b to mention the 200,000 North d b d ing out of Vietnam out of ing a on y ce, HCMC ce, e ea ffi l l k p ent anti-war emerge l d d ixon re ea l uses an N p vio e

the North Vietnamese move d es. In more recent years es. In d ort troo of US tion who wante s chief negotiator, Henry Kissinger, Henry Kissinger, s chief negotiator, self-reliant’ in matters of defence. Nixon’s Nixon’s of defence. self-reliant’ in matters ’ e d of US com of US ‘ d s were signe p l k egan egan d pp out against unarme out against b eing shot egan secret d fl the con f of 1969 saw ia an b b l rovo rawa d , , the Phi , South Korea, ; the USA res ; the USA to South Vietnam as partAmericans of what the p d in South Vietnam. o l l hong and Hanoi at the end of 1972 was calculatedhong and Hanoi d e more ll e b emonstration at Kent State University in Ohio re State University emonstration at Kent p Vietnamisation’ – making the South Vietnamese – making Vietnamisation’ b ‘ ll en comra the VC on 27 January 1973, which 1973, the VC on 27 January d ent, Richar an iers in Vietnam reache l ll d d rst ha with s sti l ld ation y, stories stories y, itary conscri l p l l rotesters eace ition of the concerne ition of p of Hai l ’ p His Doctrin presi controlled half of Cambodia, including Angkor Wat. including Angkor controlled half of Cambodia, e the fi ring of 1972 the North Vietnamese ) l d p ghting raged, Nixon & s in Paris with his North Vietnamese counter s in Paris the tota , taneous ear that the war was tearing America a ear that the war was tearing a coa massacres carrie massacres itary personne lk l l ecte l ia, New Zeaia, New d d l American university cam university American l een searching for their own MIAs in Cam in four re the Accor Peace Paris er of US so er of US d , fi b » Ho Chi Minh portrait in the central post o d b y e ll groun 1970, US ush out Vietnamese communist sanctuaries. In k te e an In the s In In 1969 the Americans In Meanwhi Simu This new esca US teams continue to search Vietnam US fl l sewhere. A d eace ta l su ght the war without the cease It was c have have Rouge allies the North and by laying mines in North Vietnam’s harbours. The mines in North Vietnam’s the North and by laying While the fi to wrest concessions from North Vietnam at the negotiating ta South Vietnam an ti ties an Other Foreign Involvement Other Foreign Austra tua su mas bombing p es were sent into Cam Nixon Nixon Once e roc fi including the infamous My Lai Massacre Lai Massacre My the infamous including as Vietnam Veterans Against the War demonstrated that it wasn demonstrated Against the War as Vietnam Veterans sent mi remains of their fa to e on Asian nations to those fearing mi American POWs. The agreement fai American POWs. strategy advocated num Cambodian territory. By summer 1970 they Cambodian territory. Vietnamese troo across the 17th Para people. 1976

ee abroad, abroad, ee fl of Vietnam is .com. Dafoe. is re-named Ho Chi Author Author and It is a brutal It is a brutal views on the views Oliver Oliver Stone, documentary documentary performances performances at the conflict at the conflict the first of his of the first including many boat boat including many from Tom Ber- Tom from ten in Platoon, ten famous trilogy trilogy famous Michael Moore Michael Moore rode into town. town. into rode about Vietnam. about Vietnam. www.johnpilger his hard-hitting his hard-hitting and cynical look look and cynical film-maker John film-maker of rookie Charlie rookie of never one to shy shy one to never American War at War American Get to grips with grips Get to away from politi- from away through the eyes the eyes through proclaimed as Saigon ment long before ment long before cal point-scoring, point-scoring, cal enger and Willem Willem and enger Sheen, with great with great Sheen, earns a maximum earns Pilger was ripping ripping was Pilger into the establish- into The Socialist Minh City. Hundreds of thousands

442 HISTORY NIXON & HIS DOCTRINE HISTORY THE FALL OF THE SOUTH 443 1989 rst time rst in decades.in be won. mirroring mirroring won the won Lie, with the war, with the war, of one man’s one man’s of cially, cially, life of Colonel Colonel of life Bright Shining account of the of account ffi ’s is the portrayal is the portrayal , Vann, John Paul tion it could not tion it could dis enchantment dis Pulitzer Prize and Prize Pulitzer America’s realisa- America’s to its communist Vietnamese forces scales in September as the

pull out of Cambodia , back its commitment commitment its back - - - - y d

a d peace for the fi . partners. Vietnam is at d ing b er. ways 1975 with l l d inter d Force, -gotten p a ri ehin . om k ll the war to more un resident, 852 Aus 852 b d p b l , ll p y that the one bl one d 1986 l kl southwar rst step rst d ery. The inva ery. . Sti rawa an ll d uic ian Tas e ars in i d b l fl itary eaving eaving on the morning q l ll l

. d o d on 21 A a strategic section y a d a massive groun ease d with the West, is d l and the fi pl with d ghting a ghting l an Doi moi (economic Doi ie ose was to hel reform), Vietnam’s ar mi l d p p launched with a rash towards re-engaging perestroika to answer of economic reforms. economic of ur heavy arti heavy eeing so p ions of CIA agents. The d fl ll d aunche ogging after Hwy 1. City cit p. l l ectacu u p s an Ws were re Ws p mi k art of the Austra O ict constituted the most signifi isintegrate ee p on to Saigon an fl ians c s were

d k Vietnam in 1973, l l d p d S P y 1980s visors an l U rove a s d iers p ushe are ort order to give it more legitimacy in block nations. block ld ff p b

using tan the eparte cially put at US$165 billion, though its real cost to the to cost real though its billion, put at US$165 cially s of civi l ffi y carting off year in economic economic in year Vietnam receives d d d . ld e nearly $3 billion a

ower since 1967, resigne ower since 1967, on a strategy of tactica During the decade decade the During trades mostly with with mostly trades l dl d ll outh p d e the Soviet Union and and military aid from an e d S the USSR and eastern d d ege as an integra ll d ort. In March, the NVA occu NVA the March, ort. In ation in the con eci near Baria, just north of Vung Tau near Baria, just north of Vung p d pp . The ARVN troo . The ARVN d d ersonnel who served in the war, casualties totalled 496, ersonnel who served in the war, erate anic in the South Vietnamese army, which ha anic in the South Vietnamese army, es of ARVN so es of ARVN s of thousan y now the South Vietnamese were fi p p l p artici re d d iers woun

1979 p d re ld itary personne ositions. This was to e l d riga p Free World Military Forces’, whose whose Military Forces’, World Free k ‘ b on US su on US ee Vietnam. ee fl e on, on d the country, a the country, e e l d bl d rovo overthrow the of e d across the 17th Para contingent of technicians, a contingent of technicians, y a shot fi By the end of 1973, 223,748 South Vietnamese soldiers had been killed in action; had been killed in action; soldiers Vietnamese South 223,748 1973, the end of By e p against Vietnam’s Vietnam’s against k th. The North Vietnamese fl bl ll l

en dl Vietnamese emerge emerge Vietnamese Vietnam in February Thousands of ethnic economy was likely to have been considerably more. considerably been have to likely was economy Approximately at one million. estimated been have fatalities VC and Vietnamese North or killed during injured population) were Vietnamese the of 10% (or million civilians four as MIA. listed still are Americans 2200 and Vietnamese 300,000 least At the war. In total, 3.14 million Americans (including 7200 women) served in Vietnam. O Vietnam. in served women) 7200 (including Americans million 3.14 In total, THE COST OF WAR 58,183 Americans were killed in action or are listed as (MIA). The The (MIA). in action missing as listed action or are killed in were Americans 58,183 o was the war of cost direct Who Nguyen Van Thieu, in Nguyen Van In the North Vietnamese January In ’s Australia’s Most of ’s contingent, which numbered 548 at its highest contingent, which Zealand’s of New Most d p relatively unscathed. relatively in a retaliatory attack guyen Van Thieu, guyen Van orth Vietnamese cou army Chinese Khmer Rouge, but the efensi e oint in 1968, o um oining hun China invades northernChina which was statione har with 2398 so an of the central highlands at Buon Ma Thuot. South Vietnam’s Thuot. South Vietnam’s of the central highlands at Buon Ma sma j N N d attac sion d The Fall of the of the The Fall Most US mi r p cant commitment of its militarycant commitment of its forces since WWII. Of the 46 tralian military called the war e nationalise the American wea of North Vietnam cease – Hue, Danang, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang – were sim Danang,– Hue, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang

. , - - - d d d a- a it- l l d

u sed, hout d rise p p g p region. o an shore. s Inde 1995 South, , ysfunc ’ s name ing the ’ at least p laces as , d d k p es , d uarter a of heli their d q y, Hanoi ha Hanoi y, Association of l e to a , mar le off d d South-East Asian Vietnam joins the p . oth si ve years ve ensive sur ensive . war that ha fi b ff uent le’. These refugees le’. eo d ere Nations (ASEAN), an of communism in the founded as a bulwark q p p against the expansion d organisation originally originally organisation . General Van Duong eo ) stems ghting was extensive, fi p y s stationed just off s stationed just p countrysi . Peace may have arrive have may . Peace s to war-focuse rotracte d d p ast Americans were evacuat- were ast Americans er it, the tragedy of this the tragedy er it, ld boat

y surren l ‘ d ll e itterness on itterness 1994 fi over the next b ; ed nation nation ed an fi normalise. oisone l p economic s er, the er, y scarre cation cation Palace d d mine y ll the South. Conse d ll d e i an in the North since erilous journeysChina on the South Sea, l k d the communists changed Saigon the communists changed the reuni , p as relations begin to on Vietnam, in place 1964 and extended to . This was just for starters since 1975, is revoked The US trade embargo ) atriots would do the same. Thoseatriots would do the same. who left by Vietnam p the countryed f with the reintegration of the North an with the reintegration of y or menta l enges. Damage from the egacy of a crue ll l ll ea HCMC ( erent socia erent d efore the surren efore the ff i b 1992 the now called Reuni fi now called d the USA never actually on North Vietnam declared war the USA

( , d hysica the country. There was the country. p lly e was far from over. d tralia and France. l ict ans to ay of their victoryay s ent for just 42 hours, forma just 42 hours, ent for ter from the US embassy roof to shi embassy roof to US ter from the most as much as it d en success of the 1975 North Vietnameseen success of the 1975 North o pl d l p allows selective selective allows

fully repelling invaders to det invaders ccessfully repelling tota cation o cation d Au is drawn up which fi dd d e s A new constitution ril 1975 their tanks smashed through the gates of Saigon gates the through smashed tanks their ril 1975 arty face l resi rst freedoms. However remains the leading force in Vietnamese society and politics. p p p ing anything from unmar ing anything e a the Communist Party economies; from a chemica f the war. l economic reforms and s d etai y fracture o 000 Vietnamese also fl

u ters were beamed around the world. And so more than a around the world. ters were beamed , d ll l The su The The ones who left. weren’t the only Americans As the South colla Just a few hours Just d p aunting series of cha endence Palace Palace endence ut the strugg ut eventually some of these hardy souls found a new life in inc en risked everythingrisked to undertake sea would become known to the world as sea would become known Minh, Minh, century of American military close. Throu came to a involvement which ha b no d tiona b Reuni On the fi co of 30 A of 30 p fl the entire con diver tion who were 135 era the North a ed by helico half a million of their com to Ho Chi Minh City City Chi Minh to Ho Harrowing images of US Marines booting Vietnamese Marines images of US Harrowing travel. 1991 nances. nances. Vietnam, a hard hard a Vietnam, rst backpackers backpackers rst fi Vietnam. currency–starved currency–starved boost its fi Accords of Accords to Vietnam Vietnam to ‘WE WRONG’ WERE had allowed Washington that if observed since have and historians Commentators long history of su Vietnam’s as America, in disruption social the resulting and likewise been averted, might have war genera- An entire Vietnam. happened in with what had terms to come to people sought the war, of architects the one of later, Years conduct. its assess had to Americans tion of wrong, were ‘we in his memoir, stated NcNamara, Robert Secretary Defense former why.’ explain to generations future it to owe We wrong. terribly 1973 included 1973 restrictions apply to to apply restrictions No money has No money arrive, though tough tough though arrive, a provision for for a provision to tourism in a bid to to normalising to billion and this US reparations reparations US The Paris Peace stumbling block block stumbling totalling US$3.5 US$3.5 totalling relations in 1978. in 1978. relations The The ever been paid to to been paid ever became the main became nation, opens its doors

444 HISTORY REUNIFICATION OF VIETNAM HISTORY CHINA & THE KHMER ROUGE 445 2006 welcomes US Vietnam plays APEC summit, the revolution. their ethnicity, their ethnicity, made them an ethnic Chinese ethnic Chinese The majority of late 1970s were were 1970s late to join the WTO. people’ who fled who fled people’ to say nothing of nothing of say to Vietnamese ‘boat ‘boat Vietnamese obvious target for for target obvious whose wealth and wealth whose the country in the the country business acumen, acumen, business host to the glitzy Bush, and prepares president George W . ------d d ut ri ers ris b p b p y the ution Viet anie l orters, b d p revious ves fro p e l p ight ight ro-Hanoi d ainst the ainst fl y enemies. g p riving the e num rst US rst rochement revo fi b ages d g le’, and rela le’,

d and im 2004 a ll a p d on Vietnam. pp p see the boxed d ar ies to the west e p l ll ( e l mushroom. The The ll eo instincts of Vi le, intellectuals, themse k l in p p d d er vi since the end of e d eo the and tourism links d set u commercial commercial p e the transition. Thise the transition. wor or y 1976, the South was South the y 1976, ism in the South, ism in the South, d ious leaders – some of boat l g on the Khmer Rouge touches down in Ho l t encirc d ‘ b hemistically known as l g Chi Minh City, as US- k layed: Vietnamlayed: was sac Vietnamese business eated assurances to the eated assurances s leading rice ex p ’ entsia, so entsia, p orter. War an War orter. p cation was accom cation was g a heavy to a heavy fi p i d ll in March 1978, seizing in March . Vietnamese forces entere s, eu d d p ite re Khmer Rouge a le who had ties to the le who had to mana e p s p d on the attac p it d eo an inte ing the commercia d 2003 l p b aunche gure Nam gure l fi ruary 1979 Chinese forces inva utionary Government. The Communist . s on Vietnamese l olicy, Vietnam sought a ra olicy, rounded u scated and were b transition to socia transition to rth an fi k p d o on whom it was to rely for the next on whom it was to rely decade i , Crime Crime ression. Des p Southerners who ha who Southerners of the government. the of p Can is sentenced to g war, which exacte war, cation of Vietnam of cation Ju in implicates dozens of death for corruption, Revo and murder, the case l l police and politicians, politicians, and police attac aign was rocking the reputation embezzlement, kidnap kidnap embezzlement, the n then, after its overthrow, foun then, after its overthrow, d p ower on 7 January 1979 an ower on 7 January o erty con d Vietnam to res p p d usinesses. Most of the victims were ethnic usinesses. Most Chinese – ured further for a ra fi reuni s. Tens of thousands of business s. Tens eate ro b l

d p p p so ong civi olitical re d hina t l res were sent southwar res were rize of US relations with and Hanoi moved into and Hanoi with Beijing relations rize of US te p y 1980s Vietnamim was a rice osed both the Southern government and the war – were osed both the Southern ist cam C d l economy was strang economy p l p eteriorating. War-weary Vietnam fe eteriorating. War-weary rovocation. In Fe rovocation. In a d le conditions. the Khmer Roug d e, re 2000 pp p d hina l b ita isastrous for the economy. Reuni the economy. isastrous for y C p & d read erty an ). with

dl not trust the Southern ur the Southern not trust p i arty o ia on Christmas Day 1978. Theyia on Christmas Day succee s rst American rst p d d fi overnment an the forma the y the Provisiona y the p i p d n l resentment amon resentment Vietnamese-US g t. 112 b a new chapter in ro d o o d

u p with p in the ear b the the e o s d rove ation an k ati ll relations. It was the e in Hanoi, cementing Hanoi, in n l Liberation of Cambodia from the Khmer Rouge soon turned to oc Meanwhi The Unti Contrary economic to its hina president to set foot p p ced for the ced l Bill Clinton becomes fi n anti-ca o am he comman hieu ac y wides egime in . China viewe egime in Phnom Penh. i egime had their egime had their e-education cam u ue visit of his presidency. last scheduled foreign whom had o were ra Party T one of the world etnamese rice farmers. Today b nam and fought a brief, 17-day war before withdrawing war before withdrawing 17-day nam and fought a brief, cu C r vate ti C Re A r r cam oned without trial in forced-labour r zen b f T r with the USA and by 1978 Washington was close to establishing relations Washington and by 1978 with the USA But the China card was ultimately with Hanoi. Khmer Rouge from Khmer Rouge force of Northern ca of Northern it contrary, hundreds of thousands of hundreds contrary, as a serious the orbit of the Soviet Union artists,writers, union leaders and reli journalists, held in terri text, hundreds of thousands soon became refugees or hundreds of thousands soon became refugees or - - g d l ia se d the b race o l b b ations l Union. . irection the co d d ve arrivals. ve ation. The fi y choosin p to em b rst six months y that Ho Chi y that Ho d fi l top rst to fee June 2011 e e d of 2011 are almost k omatic re argo, which ha a counter-attack a counter-attack i ‘ l an 18% growth over b its commitments Japanese, AmericanJapanese, pl eci i k . Tourist arrivals for the and Taiwanese are the the are Taiwanese and 3 million, representing d raw from Cam raw d 2010. Chinese, Korean, change in in change

have also vastly im- also have the occu l ay d ac , ll with favour in Hanoi. with favour d d b e in 1989 an

d ica p d it is un ower in the Sovietower in or d e d p l suit in 1986 suit in 1986 to reform to survive y with d d osts were the fi osts were the ll George W Bush have su George W Bush have the Vietnamese Communist e p a ra 2010 d the USA d d , d owe ea onger aff ll l atera (restructuring) were in, radical l l nee a its economic em Heritage site. Heritage en root an d d in October with ation of non-communists in Eastern ation of non-communists a Unesco World k y the Vietnamese no ung out p Hanoi Hanoi celebrates nees an nees inton an ll ifte Citadel is declared declared is Citadel l ld k l capital; its imperial imperial its capital; achev to came its 1000th birthday to uni exhibitions and wild b celebrations grip the the grip celebrations d e artici ynamic Vietnam to of r d s old nemesis p perestroika d ’ Gor ents C l eci , the far-fl d against . Politically, things were moving against socialism. Politically, d ’ ld the hae . resi d k p uyen Van Linh to uyen Van ism has since ta ut economica

l g b 2009 d ita to Vietnam. sca As USSR the N y 1994 the USA y 1994 the USA Hanoi p (economic reform) was experimented (economic with in Cambodia l d ramatic changes in Eastern Euro ramatic changes in Eastern d ent Mi an i d ace, . e d d d oi recognise the enounce on the internet. p Pro-democracy Pro-democracy d d er 1989, as they cou

d uce l b ld ganda against the the against ganda m ace against the North since the 1960s.ace against the North since Fu activists are jailed d erialist circles publishing articles publishing et. Ca (openness) and (openness) p democracy banners democracy oi tt pl k on a road bridge and for ‘spreading propa- ‘spreading for . In ear . In y visite acia tem D arty including pro- hanging rought the country the rought its to l l d p utionaries were out. Vietnamutionaries were fo government’ by actions actions by government’ p b l intro

se of the Soviet Union in 1991 were not viewe se of the Soviet Union peningDoo the Relations with Vietnam However, However, d d asnos p rove arty in Vietnam was on its own an inch. The Vietnamese uent een in arty. arty. n 1985 Presi n 1985 a bloc governments, calling the democratic revolutionsbloc governments, calling The at a g p b q p l I Gl revo reform-min P an p ha O was require the mar to the communist wor to the communist were restore in Se Minh wou Minh from im ation ation fl 2008 with high debts. high with and house prices spiral downwards downwards spiral Rampant in commodity prices the world. the Mekong the Mekong belt, K-5, as a as a K-5, belt, soar; the local stock Khmer Rouge Khmer Rouge grips the country, as mined areas in mined areas stretched from from stretched remains one of one of remains laid the world’s laid the world’s of of and the Vietnamese the Vietnamese defence against against defence guerrilla attacks guerrilla attacks River to the Gulf to River from Thailand. It Thailand. from the most heavily heavily the most dia in the 1980s, dia in the 1980s, During During the occu- market bubble bursts bursts bubble market leaving many saddled longest minefield minefield longest pation of Cambo- of pation

446 HISTORY OPENING THE DOOR 447

Peo ple & Culture The National Psyche Industrious, proud, stubborn and yet mischievous, quick to laugh and fond of a joke, the Vietnamese are a complicated bunch. For Westerners the national character can be diffi cult to fathom: direct questions are frequently met with evasive answers. A Vietnamese person would never tell a relative stranger their life story or profound personal thoughts the way people sometimes share feelings in the West. The national mentality Shadows and is to work as a team, in harmony rather than in confl ict – unless you’re Wind (1999) by on the highway, when it’s everyone for themselves. Their deep respect for journalist Robert Templer is a tradition, family and the state refl ect core Confucian principles. snappily written exploration of M y Generation contemporary In many ways Vietnam is still a traditional, conservative society, par- Vietnam, from Ho ticularly for the older generation, who remember the long, hard years Chi Minh per- and every inch of the territory for which they fought. Brought up on sonality cults to Vietnam’s rock- restraint and moderation, many remain unmoved by 21st-century con- and-roll youth. sumer culture. For the new generation, Vietnam is very diff erent: a place to succeed and to ignore the staid structures set by the Communists. And yes, to show off that gleaming new motorbike, sharp haircut or iPhone. North–South Divide The north–south divide lingers on. It’s said that Southerners think, then do; while Northerners think, then think some more. Southerners typi- cally reckon Northerners have ‘hard faces’, that they take themselves too seriously and don’t know how to have fun. Northerners are just as likely to think of Southerners as superfi cial, frivolous and business-obsessed. Caricatures these may be, but they shed light on the real diff erences be- tween north and south that reach beyond the (very diff erent) regional dialects. plays its part too. Life is easier in the south, where the fertile Mekong Delta allows three rice harvests a year. The north endures a long winter of grey skies, , mist and cool winds. Think of the diff erences between northern and southern Europe (or Maine and Alabama) and

FACE

Face is all important in Asia, and in Vietnam it is above all. Having ‘big face’ is synony- mous with prestige, and prestige is particularly important in Vietnam. All families, even poor ones, are expected to have big wedding parties and throw their money around like it’s water in order to gain face. This is often ruinously expensive, but far less distressing than ‘losing face’. And it is for this reason that foreigners should never lose their tempers with the Vietnamese; this will bring unacceptable ‘loss of face’ to the individual involved and end any chance of a sensible solution to the dispute.

- - d . er oor ary. are p l . d they d s an d es sec- own ersonal es have d d ld l it is p u l e d fi s the free-for-all ing uring times k ’ l d y, ifesty ate who they l eness an oc l l d . act of commu dl humi sett p d e, d that inc un k d i d fami ise i l rivacy and for centuries at the for centuries igion, ay, where arguments ay, d l p er one roof, the Viet- er one roof, successes, mourning p g d d d e nation seems su es l ortant than your sa d ens doors p ive on their own an p l ts of s an y un l p aroun ll several generations may still several may generations of the d 60s swing, which is creating d ’ y war, the im y war, y comes together l ve b l

the who ress as they the same re y that many Westerners may not may Westerners y that many d d itiona d l d ect and o d te ee fami ai chi devotees as dawn breaks, and ai chi devotees as dawn p ’ p ers when the mai y is more im d d l k e le walk into your hotel room without at the en d p rating festiva d isru b existence continuin ers tra hours. But few d eo l ity, no matter how hot an no matter ity, e b l ll l p . aughters Da ife has revo a d d l l

een d. ortant to the Vietnamese an y 7am. In d vita b p b d arks full of t

y when it comes to marriage an y when it comes to marriage y mem l p y. d l e sitting star e sitting rised if ar bl e b l p s. s, see p 427 427 s, see p eriencing its very own y is im l p ointments. This is a source of strength for many of the ointments. This for many is a source of strength ll see hi ’ can this has y staff i pp times of joy, ce times of joy, articu utation commands res ll ll d cousins, the sort of fami p e p fami y, Vietnamese y, isa d d ll d e y hit the town unti s in unannounce ise they have. Theise they exten have. -putting aspect of their time in the nation. At times it seems it seems times At their time in the nation. -putting aspect of e an immeasura d l d ff with energy an ace. A lk e Amer d bl d p ing: you may ing: you may h k itiona t estyl or thir wa come home to Mum an come home to Mum d h er generation. f Exten Some things never change. Most Vietnamese Some things never change. Most For more on t For With so many fami With so many Vietnam is ex d d ll t ace. Don’t be sur ces are fu i eaths or noc ld ffi ou have a snapshot of how one people can become two. Don’t forgetDon’t that two. become can people one of how a snapshot have ou p even rea want an on might arise, sti d k charge Famil Vietnam fami the status of your In the north a century, than half for more communism also lived with has of free-wheelin decades two more than the south had while Li Tra true that Whilst it’s nism and globalisation. y the same rice an roof, share the same o feisty frictionfeisty as sons an namese generally don’t share Western conce namese generally don’t share Western s A family’s re A family’s of trou o an faith, with the rhythm of rura faith, with the w change early risers. You same the main gringo trail. The mentality is that Westerners do not bother to to bother do not Westerners is that The mentality trail. main gringo the ff It’s not an excuse, but Vietnam is a unique country. Famine killed 2 million in the killed 2 million Famine is a unique country. Vietnam but an excuse, not It’s Most of these rapacious individuals work in tourism; chronic overcharging is rare is rare overcharging chronic in tourism; individuals work rapacious these of Most to move an shui expert). shui expert). solution is to is to solution be necessary be necessary learn the real price, don’t learn any Vietnamese and are only in country for a week or a week for only in country and are Vietnamese any learn don’t price, the real learn – about mak- the short term only thought about have Vietnamese many years, For two. has grown the concept in tourism, experienced more become they’ve As buck. ing a fast internet will be all over service (and bad business will bring repeat service that good immediately). forums War. American the the poor following of among the poorest was and the country 1940s, actually helped state Vietnamese and the young very is still industry tourism Vietnam’s separate set the government recently – until relatively mentality this overcharging forge fares train from everything for more) times 10 to four were (which rates and foreign local rooms. hotel to Western visitors regularly complain about the business practices of many Vietnamese Vietnamese many of practices about the business complain regularly visitors Western many For outright scamming. to hiking mild price from range which can encounter, they o the most it’s foreigners BUSINESS, VIETNAMESE STYLE impossible to get the local price for anything. A little background is important. little background A anything. for price the local get to impossible o you’re once often call in a call often trick, it might trick, doesn’t do the doesn’t move a door or move Sometimes the Sometimes a window. If this a window. ancestor’s ancestor’s grave. geomancer (feng (feng geomancer Failing Failing businesses

448 PEOPLE & CULTURE LIFESTYLE PEOPLE & CULTURE POPULATION 449 tay bars. coward ly, coward ly, foreigners. As As in many back to the to back by locals as locals by traditionally traditionally motherland. arrogant and arrogant women (esti- women travellers, de- travellers, are called Viet Viet called are in prostitution in prostitution of Vietnamese Vietnamese of Viet Kieu were Kieu were Viet another, work- another, (literally, (literally, balo! police but now but now police been maligned mated at up to at up to mated countries, sub- countries, ing in massage ing in massage Young Young Western tering term for for term tering scruffy- looking scruffy- of some sort or sort some of have emigrated emigrated have official policy is policy official Kieu. They have They have Kieu. dress, are often often are dress, Southeast Asian Asian Southeast greeted with greeted Vietnamese Vietnamese who 1990s, returning returning 1990s, clubs or dubious clubs privileged. In the privileged. pending on their pending on their and their money, and their money, stantial numbers numbers stantial 2 million) end up often followed by by followed often ‘Westerner back- ‘Westerner pack’), an unflat- pack’), parlours, karaoke karaoke parlours, to welcome them, them, welcome to

------s y y y p d p ue q s in and ) art in ld . p uni ance of e ( l Ho Chi le’ in the le’ Vietnam a 429 d ana Bud hong an p 457 457 er woman b p y p uenced b uenced p p eo p see ( al, Tibet, China, s, see p esert fi the p lay a major a lay and turn to Taoist d y more than seveny more than , p d e in Hanoi an in Hanoi pl . ate in life-cycle ceremo rea rofoundly infl l ld p eo p ous shift in the p d ion. Danang, Hai le are likely to say that the to say le are likely ll p s is a artici b p eo with go p rated to these areas from Yunnan rated to these areas from ur Taoism and Buddhism have fused and Buddhism have Taoism much of the commercial class in d g , b ulation has only a vague notion of p p ave that many Vietnamese that many identify with. er woman in 1991 to 1.91 in 1991 er woman o ) p p p agodas are seen by many Vietnameseagodas are seen by many as eligious and some surveys indicate that ers of young ers of young p r roceeded north into Ne b its su .

art of the ethnic mosaic that is in Vietnam been the ethnic has always p y d p p

a and later the eastern extent of the Khmer uenced the mix of Vietnameseuenced the mix minorities. ) . ortant religions. p p rarian society, the race is on for the move to race is on for the move the rarian society, ation over six mi ation over six ast few centuries. They moved into the moun ment eriencing a tremen eriencing a g streets b p ied the country for 1000 years p l p Confucianism a p ermeates Vietnamese society. le Religion , l p p overnment has traditionally viewed them with sus ulation consider themselves to have a faith. That ulation consider themselves to have g ionaires p . By 2011, 30% of Vietnamese 30% of in urban areas. lived . By 2011, ly Tri ) o ll p ( p iritual refuge from an uncertain world. resent in Vietnam for 500 years, and Cao Daism p n mi le of Vietnam p ansion southwards in search of cultivableansion southwards in search lands absorbed ulation reached 90.5 million in 2011, ranking it the 13th ranking in 2011, million reached 90.5 ulation y a rura ll p are other im m but when it comes to family or civic duties they are likel p p ll , ) HCMC o ( p ation of HCMC an ation of HCMC has of course infl l

atio ulous countryulous decreased steadily world. Birth in the have rates ular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to cre y the most colourful s etnamese are not ver l ion p p i the Northern school p and Tibet in the itiona ( ts to understand the nature of the cosmos . o ) o grou of the 50 or more minority Many c was not only one-way. u g divorce and arrived in Vietnam in two forms: Maha divorce and arrived in Vietnam in two d ffi ation, as increasing num ation, as increasing p V p p l 11 y ire, and both the Chams Khmers and the are sizeable minorities over the centuries y y. p lthough the majority of the lthough the majority , ion, the Hanoi conur ion, the Hanoi 0 u p hysical and s ll A The grou largest minority Tra Tra , Christianity, Histor p o hen discussing religion, Vietnamese p ith hose culture dee m o hism riving economic develo icion, and drove many of them out of the country of them out of icion, and drove many as ‘boat

re Buddhist te the Tam Giao te the Tam once oday. For more on Vietnam’s minority hill-tribe grou minority more on Vietnam’s For oday. hat inhabit the far only mi ains that the lowland Vietnamese considered uncultivable, and hel he cities. Vietnam is ex China o the region o follow the moral and social code of Confucianism he cities. While the oda he Chinese, who occu rom an average of 3.6 children of 3.6 children average rom an n 2 rst the Kingdom of Cham late 1970s, are now comfortably and many resettled mi said most The popu only 20% of the Buddhis other great religions, has been through a somewhat Buddhism, like mess d a t t c nies, such as funerals. Buddhist w a W a Reli Man t p d make u make t u which makes Chinese community, t ( t fi E t The Peo Vietnamese been culture and civilisation have t w Can Tho are a t p Vietnam’ f i P Buddhist doctrines, they to monks invite Minh City City Minh search of those mythica search of those The steady ex - e p . and From ‘ m osed to am the Pure ( pp your your ff The Way, or The Way, hasises con- ( the Southern p ( hasises p is found mainly in hy em ) p oors and it’s usual and it’s oors ate as to whether or not he hiloso b p , and it em ractised mainly in the south. ) p ractised by ethnic Khmers p , who lived in the 6th century BC. Little originated in China and is based on the ) ) ortant sect, is Tieu Thua, or Nam Tong Tieu Thua, or Nam p an, while Theravada Buddhism an, while Theravada ( p Old One ( licity. Its ideal is returning to the Tao Its ideal is returning the Tao to licity. p ence or, worse, spark an international incident, but incident, an international spark worse, or, ence . ff . , another im ) out Laotse and there is some de b odia ulted him , also known as the school of meditation. Dao Trang , also known as the school of meditation. Dao Trang b m s ) hy of Laotse Lao Giao, or Dao Giao redominant school of Buddhism, and indeed religion, in Viet-redominant school of Buddhism, and indeed religion, ( n p took the southerly route through India, Sri Lanka, took the southerly route through India, p ) o lation and sim p Understanding Taoism is not easy. The is not easy. Taoism Understanding The Theravada Buddhism Theravada hiloso the Mekong Delta region, and is mostly the Mekong nam is Mahayana Buddhism (Dai Thua, or Bac Tong, meaning Buddhism (Dai Thua, or Bac Tong, nam is Mahayana is known a actually existed. He is believed to have been the custodian is believedactually of the im to have existed. He school Taois Taoism p rial archives for the Chinese su government, and is Korea, and Ja Mongolia Korea, and Cam the North’). The largest Mahayana sect in the country The Zen largest Mahayana is (Dhyana, the North’). or Thien have c have Land school the essence of which all things are made tem Them to ff beings. Mahayana Mahayana Vietnam) or Vietnam) (Quan Am (Quan in hat and bow your head politely when addressing them. In Asia, the head is the symbolic is the symbolic the head Asia, In them. when addressing politely head your hat and bow an adult on the head. or touch pat point – never highest it will also endear you to your hosts. Here are a few tips to help you go native. go help you to tips a few are Here hosts. your to you endear it will also to remove shoes when entering somebody’s home. It’s rude to point the bottom of your your of point the bottom rude to It’s home. somebody’s when entering shoes remove to such as sacred, anything towards feet point your ever Never, people. other towards feet a Buddha image. o take such as monks, people, esteemed elderly or other to respect of a form As Hats O Hats Mean Feet Mean fl maintain clean strictly Vietnamese Japanese, and the Chinese Like Deadly Chopsticks Deadly the in- much like very looks bowl in a rice sitting vertically chopsticks of a pair Leaving appreciated is not sign and This is a powerful the dead. for burned that are sticks cense Asia. in anywhere It’son the Cards or transaction the smallest even of is an important part cards business Exchanging and hand them out Vietnam in arrive you before printed some Get contact. business confetti. like Meet & Greet of in front hands together your press is to greeting of form Vietnamese The traditional hands has al- shaking of custom Western the days, These slightly. body and bow your over. taken completely most Dress Code Dress the shoulder, covering tops women’s the knees, to shorts standards: dress local Respect Nude a temple. entering before shoes your remove Always sites. at religious particularly on beaches. even inappropriate, totally is considered sunbathing Take your time to learn a little about the local culture in Vietnam. Not only will this en- only Not Vietnam. in culture about the local a little learn time to your Take o cause inadvertently don’t you sure WHEN IN NAM… DO THE AS VIETS Buddhas that postpone their postpone stay on earth to to on earth stay in Boddhisatvas in Boddhisatvas save their fellow their fellow save enlightenment to to enlightenment Buddhists Buddhists believe attain nirvana but nirvana attain

450 PEOPLE & CULTURE RELIGION PEOPLE & CULTURE RELIGION 451 ll the ll Vietnamese Vietnamese society.org). .thebuddhist duc.com, the duc.com, in Melbourne, in Melbourne, Society (www Society magazine and magazine Australia. Also Also Australia. To learn about learn To .com), and the .com), hala Sun (www Duc Monastery Monastery Duc .shambhalasun out www.quang based Buddhist Buddhist based informative UK- informative website Shamb- website worth a look are a look are worth leading Buddhist Buddhist leading Buddhism, Buddhism, check website of Quang Quang of website

erings, are pre- are erings, , , ff y w ing in the date cant and p y hism ion b ect the year ahead. ahead. ect the year s social ecorate g ’ dd d (sticky rice rice chung (sticky banh signifi Nho Giao ( air – air . able of sha p emons to emons ing Vietnam d

p d uarters is in Tay Ninh, uarters is in Tay the people take but many cial holidays yang. Much of Taoist of yang.Much q ffi VietnameseBu d d ar and is the most . e ons an g hies of both East and West. It hies of both East and West. pl p ra eo d p spirits. evil hiloso ff p ortant in sha force ents of yin an of yin ents l ’s founder. For more on Cao Daism, see more on Cao Daism, For founder. ’s p p into Chinese an iefs of its d l uiva e . e q b y, the use of the use y, was born in China around 550 BC. He sa China was born in 550 BC. He around b l )

rst visitor of the year to each household is suitable – a wealthy is suitable – a wealthy household each to the year of visitor rst d erson’s obligations to family, society state, and the to family, obligations erson’s sor p b m illars of the Vietnamese nation today p rst three days after Tet are the o are Tet after days three rst fi ives an . hy than an organised religion, Confucianism religion, Confucianism hy than an organised . . l ff een a p s m KhongTu b ushers in the Lunar New Ye in the Lunar New Day) ushers ( p 348 . He believed exists that the individual for societ in and . He the y p d most common most hiloso a code of ethics guide the individual in social interaction. to g p p the Vietnamese the e in , e roofto ism has ism has The festival falls between 19 January and 20 February, the same dates as Chinese as Chinese dates the same February, January and 20 19 between falls The festival aff they believed crucial as it’s are Day Year’s New of The events crucial that the fi It’s aff family is a quiet Tet itself, Eve Year’s New from Apart At the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve, all problems are left behind and mayhem and mayhem behind left are all problems Eve, Year’s midnight on New of the stroke At Tet rites begin seven days before New Year’s Day. Altars, laden with o Altars, Day. Year’s New before days begin seven rites Tet d le as social beings formed by societyle as social yet ca also l pl u p l Vietnamese . It’s a time when families reunite in the hope of good fortune for for fortune good of in the hope reunite a time when families It’s calendar. Vietnamese And the home. family the into back welcomed are spirits and ancestral year, the coming older. one year becomes everyone a birthday; celebrates Vietnam whole of The Year. New o whole week of and the spirits visited are Cemeteries year. luck in the coming good ensure to pared home. return members family Absent celebrations. the home for invited relatives dead and cleaning paid are debts slate; with a clean is started year important that the new It’s or apricot peach neu) – kumquat, (cay tree Year’s New A sport. the national becomes o ward to – is displayed blossom night air. to believed that are Other activities anger. be rude or show to not care extra take People things. and breaking swearing sweeping, include sewing, spirits bad attract auspicious! be considered not may – foreigners is ideal children married man with several ceases and virtually all transport closed, are Shops at home. with pork and egg) is eaten year it is a special time of However, Vietnam. in travel time to a troublesome It’s run. to chuc this phrase: remember just join in the celebrations, to be invited to sure and you’re Year! New mung nam moi – Happy ensues. The goal is to make as much noise as possible: drums and percussion fi drums and percussion as possible: as much noise make to is The goal ensues. TET: THE BIG TET: ONE (Festival Dan Nguyen Tet one. into all rolled and birthdays Year New is Christmas, Tet of the First Confucius There are thought to be between two and three million followers of and three million followers There two to be between are thought as founded in the early 1920sas founded in the early based on messages revealed seances in hich remain the rew u eo uong oxed text itua o Ngo Minh Chieu, the grou o Ngo Minh heir societ em using the secular and religious w t b Cao Dais Cao Daism is a Vietnamese sectreli that seeks to create the ideal f p t d w More a More or Khong Giao) has been an im inc t Confucianis d r

Cao Daism in Vietnam. The sect’s colourful head Cao Daism in Vietnam. The sect’s system an 96km northwest HCMC of This a code laid down

------y p d d d e a l of on d d an an ase d ower ing a ce p b p k ld d mainly ase , b y cure most of l gure gure 8% to 10% d amic- ( l ted by many, . ays an ays a in the 15th hallic fertility p ous of Hindu dei of Hindu d p l p (p amic wor l le in the central centre of icism is ma l ed by ethnic Viet p l icity in worshi in icity eo missionaries. To missionaries. er Is ngas pp y their Is pl p d li y on Fri reme Being. Hoa Hao reme Being. Hoa ll l by p

hism that was hism that live in Vietnam y , Catho dd d as a riva ve sim ines. Under the Communist ines. Under itiona l d d Bu pp contain the Su d , ersonal faith rather than elabo ersonal faith d raying on raying ine an p l p roximately 1.5 million roximately 1.5

l ractises have been ado ractises have pp vert Since 1990, the the government. ays. Tra ays. p to Vietnam an in 1911 hies invo aw, aw, Cham Muslims follow a localised ad Cham Muslims era b l d d p y

b i d l su redominantly live in the same region as that are still worshi oso uce uenced by Hinduism, and many of the and many uenced by Hinduism, ) p l ld d in the 16th centur . Man hi sm d y p y three mostly ethnic Chams ogy an l , l uce greater contact with the wi d reaching a reforme reaching hist d p y Huynh Phu So. Afterwas miracu he y Huynh en a more etween humans an (temple) is not is not den (temple) Vietnamese A or pray. erings b k b dd ff in Asia after the Phili le and embodied in le and embodied ) uddhi p resent Shiva ism that cou rofoundly infl p l an for on ractise various Hindu rituals and customs. Hundreds ofractise rituals and customs. various Hindu Hundreds B egan eo p amic theo d b p built as Hindu sanctuaries built as Hindu l p , ita iaries p sm d ues are under construction. 000 Muslims , ulation q s. His Bu s. His . l p s ta in 1939 ta in 1939 k. l o many Chams who remained in Vietnam became Muslims but Chams many who remained in Vietnam became Muslims d , a was ortant today. minority p ac icism was intro to ca m l p p b an ness, So ness, So . d De l a here are around 60,000 Cham living in Vietnam who identify e ll g st l k T Protestantism was intro Protestantism tation of Is a rating Rama on p o in the common the common in the south of the countr Buddhists are thought to number a Buddhists are thousands more migrated southwest to Cambodia, where theythousands more migrated southwest to Cambodia, u make themselves as Hindus. Theythemselves as Hindus. come an im more mos Hindui Cham namese and ethnic Chinese After alike. of Cham the fall Is Around 70 a b religious rituals co-existed with animism and the worshi more orthodox Muslim ties. Today tivities. In Vietnam were viewe churches tivities. In l rate ritua no interme Christianity Catho Hoa Hoa Hao in the Me was founded Hao) sect Buddhist Giao Hoa (Phat Hao The Hoa k symbols that re continued to high Vietnam of Catholics has the second-highest concentration gaine as Chams have an i of the government, Catholics faced severegovernment, Catholics restrictions on their religious ac century the 200,000 or so followers today are hill-tribe today the 200,000 or so followers Cham Muslims, concentrated around Phan Rang on the south-central Cham Muslims, c government has ta Cham towers The Cao Dai Temple seems to somehow fall between the cracks. Given the mixture the mixture Given the cracks. between fall somehow to seems Temple The Cao Dai In recent Vung Tao. Vung have been have Its prophets prophets Its constructed, constructed, world’s faiths faiths world’s really a place of worship, but rather a structure built to honour a great historical fi historical honour a great to built a structure but rather worship, of a place really Ho Chi Minh). and even Hung Dao, Tran (Confucius, pagoda, temple, a blend of arguably it’s Cao Daism, of and parcel that is part ideas of and mosque. church Travelling around Vietnam, there are a lot of pagodas and temples, but how does the does but how and temples, pagodas of a lot are there Vietnam, around Travelling as a a chua (pagoda) regard Vietnamese The which is which? know person average o make they where worship of place TEMPLE? OR PAGODA Christ, Moses Moses Christ, cocktail of the the of cocktail of Danang and Danang of Bai Dinh, while Bai Dinh, years vast new new vast years Cao Daism is a Cao Daism including Chua statues now de- now statues Joan of Arc, Wil- Arc, of Joan include Buddha, include Buddha, choices, such as such choices, and Victor and Victor Hugo. and some wacky wacky and some and Mohammed, and Mohammed, Confucius, Jesus Jesus Confucius, fine the coastline fine the coastline and philosophies. and philosophies. Buddhist Buddhist temples liam Shakespeare liam Shakespeare giant new Buddha giant new

452 PEOPLE & CULTURE RELIGION PEOPLE & CULTURE 453

doi in HCMC. it at www Hung’s film Hung’s Vietnamese Vietnamese Vietnamese Vietnamese .tienghatque a silk weaver a silk weaver and promote and promote impact of of impact performances performances Tieng Hat Que Tieng Hat Que look up details look up details (economic moi (economic of forthcoming forthcoming of tells the tale of of the tale tells husband for an for husband huong.com and huong.com deserted by her by deserted between artists, artists, between (Giai Han; 1997) Han; 1997) (Giai For a look at the For founded in 1981, in 1981, founded to has a mission women, Vu Xuan Xuan Vu women, upwardly mobile upwardly businesswoman. Misfortune’s End Misfortune’s building a bridge building a bridge reform) on some on some reform) old and new. Visit Visit old and new. traditional , music, traditional preserve, develop develop preserve, Huong, which was which was Huong,

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s erformed at restaurants and muse p it s lenty of grief to US soldiers. After the of grief to US lenty (bronze drums). Key instruments are (bronze drums). Key er-family p , whistles, gongs and stringed n p iven much fanfare, but most of the iven much fanfare, but ha ) . g s ted by the Communist Party for many a for many ted by the Communist Party hone. p . p ortunity as males to shine after graduation. ic ritie hones scale may be of Chinese origin, but Vietnamese scale may o ) pp dong son p layed on a wide array of indigenous instruments, on a wide array layed es of classical chamber music: but downright dangerous. but downright ed Khmer and p tnam s p . m central Vietnam. ue, as the melody and the tones move as one; the ue, as the melody and the tones move as one; e min a 16-string with a haunting melody, and the a 16-string zither with a haunting melody, jobs, such as crushin o q ’s g h, erial court for the entertainment mandarin elite. of the fr lk music is usually sung without any instrumental ac lk music is usually sung without any p e learned music’, is rather formal and frigid. It was is rather learned music’, o ‘ estless, estless, u entatonic HCMC and Hue Indiani ng , H arts of Asia, Vietnamese e f

heavy baskets heavy (p a single-stringed zither that generates an astounding arra a single-stringed zither that generates s , p lenty of hard work to do but little authority at the decision authority to do but little of hard work lenty so hi onal Mus g p ca an tran osts were given to men. In the countryside, In you’llosts were given to men. see women i n in Vi au d f Vietnam p t similar to xylo s traditional music is original, though heavily in s traditional music is original, though heavily ’ b e ( o , i level. Vietnamese were hi women g a large bamboo xylo Traditionally, the Vietnamese worship and honour the spirits of their ancestors regu- their ancestors of spirits and honour the worship Vietnamese the Traditionally, backbreakin , animent and was ada s m an c marc g ve note ve i p d fi e and al Vietnamese ancestor worship dates from before the arrival of Confucianism or Bud- or Confucianism of the arrival before from dates worship ancestor Vietnamese and death on after lives the soul that the belief on is based worship Ancestor dhism. the in of Because descendants. its of the protector becomes to spirits the for only shameful not it is considered living, on the exert ancestors one’s be upset or r help for request To death. ancestor’s a particular of on the anniversary especially larly, fi sacri a sick child, on behalf of or in business success the land, of and a plot altar the family are elements Important worship spirits. ancestral the ancestors. support of the aside for which is set of income ANCESTOR WORSHIP ANCESTOR o Vietnamese traditional music is Classical, or Vietname The two-children- country’s Traditional music is Traditional Each rth and s ot e i o hones h instruments made from gourds. and carryin strictly least in urban areas, and is boosting the inde enforced, at dating back to ancient the American War and brought and brought the American War p ums in Hanoi t tr formed at the im com Trad Vietnam ne cation. Around 50% of university students are female cation. Around 50% of university Art ence of Vietnamese women, with more delayin ernment makin W As in many war, their contributions were war, include distinctive costumes and instruments of tones the trung n melody cannot rise during a verse that has a falling tone melody cannot rise during a verse that has a falling There are two main ty There are two doin choral music is uni gain, with always given the same o always

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s inc p p n assica od l itiona p a nother ce l k (Hanoi’s Lenin Park is a key meeting Lenin Park (Hanoi’s sayings, accom sayings, d d d a Trinh Cong Son, who Trinh Conventiona M C Vietnam’s number one domestic heart-throb is Hue-born Quang Linh, one domestic heart-throb number is Hue-born Vietnam’s A The artist most celebrated is Khanh Ly Po Vietnam p d etnamese theatre fuses music, singing, recitation, kich), i ary an ance is again mainstream than ance moves rather than searing ance moves rather than un an r orm o gestures and scenery and has an accom and has s anti-war an in evi who is a into an artistic who the drum singing an f d or Theatre & Puppetr V atre are south and is based on Chinese o D Tra d whir b p Vietnam’s music scene is music Vietnam’s ho d Contemporary Mus Vietnam aroun Her music is wi Her an Vietnam the USA. in 1975 for She is massive ao is one of the most visua among stu century an her recent

.com. heroin. HIV-positive HIV-positive Dancing Girl, Dancing My Duyen) is My Duyen) wrapping their faces in towels and wearing long-sleeved shirts, elbow-length silk gloves silk gloves elbow-length shirts, long-sleeved and wearing towels in their faces wrapping compli- is a great skin that she has white woman Vietnamese a tell To hats. and conical insult. is a grave suntan’ ‘lovely that she has a her ment; telling The Vietnamese consider pale skin to be beautiful. On sunny days Vietnamese women women Vietnamese days sunny On be beautiful. to skin pale consider Vietnamese The tan- from keep to in order an umbrella of the shade under strolling seen be often can in the fi who work Women ning. A WHITERSHADE OFPALE directed by Le Le by directed nam, including nam, a major splash Hoang, caused caused Hoang, culture of Viet- of culture Hoa (played by by (played Hoa with its release release with its It tells in 2003. insight into the insight into For an in-depth an in-depth For seen mainlining seen prostitutes, and prostitutes, the story of two two of the story fashion, film and fashion, www.thingsasian music, check out music,

454 PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS 455 40 years. The Sacred The Sacred lives of three three of lives colonisation, colonisation, and America. WWII and the traces French French traces by Duong Van Van Duong by and recalls the and recalls hardships they they hardships Paradise of the of Paradise (2000), (2000), Willow ese novel to be to novel ese namese family. family. namese women and the women by Duong Duong Blind, by northern village northern village Thu Huong, was was Thu Huong, published in the faced over some some over faced Mai Elliot, spans spans Mai Elliot, tumultuous four USA. It is set in a It is set USA. wars with France with France wars upper-class Viet- upper-class This enlightening This enlightening the first Vietnam- the first generations of an of generations historical memoir historical and a Hanoi slum, and a Hanoi slum,

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his visu pp e p ), were also over, a Viet over, l p . ral literature n T sna (The Tale of (The Tale o lm-maker. lm-maker. In a 75 ll see in south d 1995 fi u ’ ustry V ( p which featured characters. The , d ieu o (1992) celebrates c nal l m a c o ainted grand scenes . olitical rather than n K t of movie cameras. y, North Vietnamese North y, nom p fi l Cy p rolifi a les you p ustry an p d . aganda art is now highl lash in 1999 with his ex lomat m V p orts was a newsreel of Ho p p ff 467 Ki ro c builders like their Khmerc builders like m in ainting has been infl p l p set in HCMC

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u p . on t includes anything recorded in includes anything s l ) 123 p ) e r ut lms s tence p s touching i fi ’ s ves in the internationa b . chu nho). Dominated by Confucian and Buddhist texts l the South Vietnamesecation, movie in roverbs. Sino- was written in Chi was written literature roverbs. Sino-Vietnamese e ast century, Vietnamese ast century, ( oet, scholar, mandarin and di oet, scholar, p e d e G p ian fami orts were very s p l reserve of scholar-calligra ff h . p (1993), he hones in on the complexities(1993), he hones in on the of modern relation- uoc am orary , a ) q . mance a p lent exi tur ( nn . o tectur o le a i of sensationa b m aracter ist who joins an ex- Keitel vi tur l r g t text written in n in t text written s. h etnam. For more on arc more etnam. For y s e e s i was written during the fi was written en khau) began long before recorded history includes legends, and e ) ern r s, while T y n R es with adjusting from his life as a soldier during the American War es with adjusting from his e c ife as a civi p rch l Prior to reunifi Prior Young overseas-Vietnamese fi overseas-Vietnamese Young During the One of Vietnam’s literary master One of Vietnam’s Vietnamese-American Tony Bui made a s Vietnamese-American Tony Tran Dang Nhat Minh is Dang Nhat Minh In Nguyen Khac’s Nguyen Khac’s In Therewater- are Contem s p od ne of Vietnam’s earliest cinematographic e cinematographic earliest ne of Vietnam’s he roduced y Western trends. Much recent work has had trends. Much y Western uisite feature lly stunning master nd it strin ward rn V arlie ollecta o he coming of age of a young servanthe coming of age of a young gir o 1765–1820 Ode to an Alligator rom nature. Realistic lm-making e lm-making ourna (tru Harve Cong soldier. aesthetic or artistic motives – some of this it was governed by strict rules of metre and verse. Modern Vietnameseit was governed by strict rules of metre and verse. Modern literature ne p b c Painting & on frame-mounted silk dates from the 13th centuryPainting and was at one time the f Historically the Vietnamese Historically were not e Kieu ( A e ( There are three vein q Lit t a a a shi j c t a fi Ci O Chi Minh’s 1945 Proclamation of Independence. Later, partsthe battle of Later, of Independence. 1945 Proclamation Chi Minh’s Phu ( of Dien Bien folk songs and niche for themse neighbours, or the Chams, whose towers and tem m more about this ‘Punch and Judy in a and Judy this ‘Punch more about T

l - - - g u uer q ac ture in y infl l p. lp dl or in Danang. jects. Hanoi ) lk b gures for their 181 rofoun fi e si p l ort and the coun (p p ucing commercia d ions League or other -sty l and courses are dot orary su p ro ff stone ture . p layers and everylayers street p d p p fees ensure it remains a ed for a Word Cu ed for a Word p ture was 244 244 ectator s itiona p san lp ection of Cham scu p d d ll ualifi all night to watch live games. q p orts include volleyball and table , the Cham e co p p er teams in , havin l . g ar carve l to the tra the 11th and for used is ned lacquer eries fi k ll eal these days and trendy Vietnamese eal these days like s in 2008, though they remain minnows on ac p b s number-one s pp ’ eriment with contem ectacu argest sing p p l s d ionshi p lay. Similarly, golf has taken o golf has taken Similarly, lay. uce p d . hist sanctuaries. Cham scu ne coal powder and lime wash before the object is before and lime wash powder ne coal ro e others ex p l dd ian art. The own on Cham architecture, see d d Bu d ow y In l b

otential court. Other favourite s otential court. Other favourite s. u an d ort p d Hoi An have some great ga some An have Hoi Tennis has considerable a has considerable Tennis The Vietnamese are a nation of badminton Many young artists now concentrate on Many The Chams d aintings. Some have gone aintings. Some have aintings, whi ame for the elite Hin major clashes, half the country u stays The national team is one of the stron an For the For to both watch and won the Asean Cham although membershi ted all over the country, g ence Sp (soccer) is Vietnam Football Cu try is mad for it. During the World p p the international stage and have not yet the international stage and have tenni the world is found at the Museum of Cham Scul Museum the world is found at the is a is made from resin extracted from the rhus tree. It is creamy white white It is creamy tree. the rhus from extracted resin from mai) is made (son The art of making lacquerware was brought to Vietnam from China in the mid–15th in the mid–15th China from Vietnam to brought was lacquerware making art of The nal coat, which is sanded with a fi with sanded which is nal coat, fi eggshell mother-of-pearl, or inlaying relief, in low engraving include Designs decorated. metals. or precious teachers Japanese in Hanoi had several School Arts the Fine the 1930s, During century. methods. and production styles new who introduced Lacquer Lacquer the After hours. 40 for container in an iron with pigments is darkened but form, in raw Each applied. are lacquer of coats 10 the requisite glue, with treated object has been and cuttlebone with pumice sanded and then thoroughly a week for be dried must coat specially re A be applied. can layer the next before INSIDE LACQUER INSIDE

456 PEOPLE & CULTURE SPORT 457 H i l l T r i b e s o f Vietnam

Hanhi ethnic minority girls carrying rice stalks in Lai Chau Province STU SMUCKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 458 A mosaic of ethnic minorities inhabits the mountainous regions of Vietnam. Exploring their highland homelands, hiking remote trails and experiencing a hill-tribe market are unforgettable experiences. The French called these ethnic minorities Montagnards while ethnic Vietnamese traditionally referred to them as moi, a derogatory term meaning savages. The current government prefers the term nguoi thuong ‘highland people’. The most colourful of these minorities live in the far north of Vietnam, carving an existence out of the lush mountain landscapes along the Chinese and Lao borders. Here most hill-tribe people wear incredible hand-woven costumes – some so elaborate that it’s easy to believe the girls learn to embroider before they can walk. In the central highlands, attachment to traditional dress is rare and minorities can be difficult to distinguish, at least visually, from other Vietnamese. Some hill-tribe groups have lived in Vietnam for thousands of years, while others like the H’mong migrated south from China in the past few centuries. The areas inhabited by each group are often delineated longer dress in traditional clothing, and by altitude, with more recent arrivals settling those who do are often found only in the higher up. First come, first served even remote villages of the far north. Often it applies to the remote mountains. is the women of the community who keep Each hill tribe has its own language, the costume alive, wearing tribal clothes customs, mode of dress and spiritual beliefs. and passing their weaving knowledge on Language and culture constitute the borders to their daughters. of their world. Some groups are caught between the medieval and the modern, while others have assimilated into modern life. Most groups share a rural, agricultural THE LEGACY OF WAR lifestyle with similar village architecture During the American War, many of the and rituals. The majority are semi-nomadic, and cultivate their crops using slash-and- minorities in the central highlands were burn methods. The government has been enrolled in the Civilian Irregular Defense trying to encourage the hill tribes to adopt Program (CIDG), part of the US Army standard agriculture at lower altitudes, with Special Forces. US special forces consid- incentives such as subsidised irrigation, ered the tribes the hardiest and most loyal education and health care. However the hill forces on the South Vietnamese side. tribes’ long history of independence and Following the end of the war in 1975, distrust of the ethnic-Vietnamese majority some of these experienced fighters keep many away from the lowlands. continued to resist the new communist As in other parts of Asia, the traditional culture of the ethnic minorities is gradually government based in Hanoi. The United giving way to outside influences. Many no Front for the Liberation of Oppressed Races (FULRO) conducted small-scale at- tacks on government forces right through Clockwise from top left the 1980s. 1. Black H’mong embroidery at Sapa market 2. White H’mong girl, Sinho 3. Flower H’mong children, Cao Son 459 KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © STU SMUCKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 460 Minorities Today Tourism is effecting change in some hill- tribe regions. With growing numbers of people travelling to the highlands there’s increased exposure to business- savvy lowlanders, Western wealth and commerce. Agriculture is often abandoned when there are easier pickings available. Some children, particularly in Sapa, expect handouts of money or sweets. Others dodge school to peddle trinkets to tourists. Worse, domestic tourism has created a market for karaoke, massage and sex, and some minority women have been lured into this trade. However there are now H’mong-owned tour agencies (p126 ) which are supporting educational and development work in the highlands. Vietnam’s hill-tribe minorities have some autonomy and, though the official national language is Vietnamese, children can still learn their local languages, (see p528 for useful phrases), although this has been a sensitive issue in parts of the central highlands, where tensions remain high. Prejudices against hill-tribe people endure. Attitudes are changing slowly but the Vietnamese media can still present them as primitive and exotic. It’s not uncommon for Vietnamese people to still see minorities as subversive (some sided with the USA during the American War). The reality is that minorities remain at the bottom of the educational and

economic ladder. Despite improvements KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © in rural schooling and regional healthcare, many hill-tribe people marry young, have large families and die early. They remain the poorest section of Vietnamese society: according to 2006 figures 52% live in poverty, compared to 10% of ethnic Vietnamese.

Clockwise from top left 1. Elderly Flower H’mong woman in traditional dress 2. Cong minority woman on bamboo raft, Muong Tei 3. Portrait of Red Dzao woman in traditional headdress 461 KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © STU SMUCKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

PROTEST

Many highlanders feel excluded from mainstream society, and religious tensions (many are Christian) and land ownership issues (ethnic Vietnamese have colonised large areas of their homeland) have simmered for decades. Protests have erupted several times in recent years. Minorities in the central highlands demonstrated against discrimination and religious persecution in 2001 and 2004 resulting in arrests, reports of up to eight deaths and 1000 people fleeing the country. Reports from Dien Bien Phu province in May 2011 suggest up to 7000 H’mong highland- ers gathered to call for greater autonomy and religious freedom, prompting a crackdown by the Vietnamese military and news blackout. There were unconfirmed reports of 28 deaths, according to the US-based pro-H’mong Center for Public Policy Analysis. The Vietnamese government accused ‘bad elements’ of provoking crowds to call for an inde- pendent H’mong homeland and said “the situation in Muong Nhe is still being resolved by all levels of party and government so that the lives of the compatriots there can return to stability”. 462 The Ethnic Mosaic Vietnam has 53 recognised minority groups, accounting for 14% of the population. Some groups are comprised of just a few hundred people, others more than a million. Together they number nearly 11 million. Bahnar The Bahnar (pop 175,000) are believed to have migrated long ago to the central highlands from the coast. They are animists and worship trees, such as the banyan and ficus. They keep a traditional calendar that calls for 10 months of cultivation, with the remaining two months set aside for social and personal duties, such as marriage, weaving and festivals. Traditionally when babies reached one month old, an ear-piercing ceremony was held to make them a member of the village. The Bahnar are skilled woodcarvers and wear similar dress to the Jarai.

Dzao STU SMUCKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © The Dzao (or Zao/Dao) are one of the largest (pop 650,000) of Vietnam’s ethnic groups and live in the northwestern provinces. The Dzao practise ancestor worship or ban ho and hold elaborate rituals with animal sacrifices. The group’s proximity to China explains the common use of traditional medicine and the similarity of the nom dao script to . The Dzao are famous for their elaborate dress. Women’s clothing features intricate weaving and silver-coloured beads and coins. Their long hair, shaved above the forehead, is tied up into a large red or embroidered turban. Ede The polytheistic Ede (pop 270,000) live communally in beamless boat-shaped longhouses on stilts. About a third of these homes are for communal use, with the rest

Clockwise from top left 1. Hill-tribe girl in a small village, Coc Ly 2. Black Dzao woman with child, Tien Binh 3. Hanhi people, Muong Tei 463 KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © STU SMUCKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

partitioned into sections to give privacy women wearing skirts, aprons, leggings to married couples. In Ede courtship, and cylindrical hats. The Flower H’mong girls propose to men. After marriage, the women wear outfits with bright rainbow couple resides with the wife’s family and banding. Many H’mong women don bears the mother’s name. Inheritance is large silver necklaces, earrings and silver also the preserve of women. Ede women bracelets. H’mong also live in neighbouring generally wear colourful embroidered vests Laos and Thailand, and many have fled to with copper and silver jewellery. Many live Western countries as refugees. around and Dac Lac. Jarai H’mong The Jarai are the most populous minority Since migrating from China in the 19th in the central highlands (pop 340,000); century, the H’mong have become one many live around . Villages are of Vietnam’s largest ethnic groups (pop often named after a nearby river or tribal 900,000). They are spread across the far chief, and a nha-rong (communal house) north, but most visitors will meet them in is usually at the centre. Jarai women Sapa or Bac Ha. Most are animists, and typically propose marriage to men through worship spirits. The H’mong live at high a matchmaker. Animistic beliefs and rituals altitudes, cultivate dry rice and medicinal abound, and the Jarai pay respect to their plants (including opium, though this is ancestors and nature through a host or being phased out due to government yang (genie). They construct elaborate pressure) and raise animals. There are cemeteries with totem-style effigies of several groups of H’mong, including Black, the deceased. They’re also renowned for White, Red, Green and Flower, each with musical instruments, from bamboo tubes its own subtle dress code. Black H’mong (used as wind flutes and percussion), to wear indigo-dyed linen clothing, with bronze gongs. 464 Muong KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Mainly concentrated around Hoa Binh, the male-dominated Muong (pop 1.4 million) live in small stilt-house hamlets and their culture is similar to the Thai. They are known for producing literature, poems and songs. Muong music is performed with instruments such as the gong, drums, pipes and two-stringed violin. Nung The Nung (pop 750,000) inhabit the far northeastern provinces. Concentrated into small villages, Nung homes are typically divided into two areas: one for living, the other for work and worship. From ancestral worship to festivities, the Nung are spiritually and socially similar to the Tay. Nung brides traditionally command high dowries from prospective grooms. Most Nung villages still have shamans, and the tribe is renowned for its handicrafts, including basketwork. Sedang Native to the central highlands, the Sedang (pop 140,000) have been adversely affected by centuries of war and invaders (Cham and Khmer). They do not carry KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © family names, and there’s said to be complete equality between the sexes. The children of one’s siblings are also given the same treatment as one’s own, creating a strong familial tradition. The Sedang practise unique customs, such as grave abandonment, sharing of property with the deceased and giving birth at the forest’s edge. Tay The Tay (pop 1.5 million) are the largest hill-tribe group and live at low elevations in the north. They adhere to Vietnamese beliefs in Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism, but also worship genies and spirits. Since developing their own script in the 16th century, Tay literature and arts have become famous. Nong Duc Manh, General Secretary of the Vietnamese Communist Party for 10 years until January 2011, is from the Tay minority.

Clockwise from top left 1. Red Dzao girl, Ta Phin 2. fishing for shellfish, Lai Chau 3. Flower H’mong children, Coc Ly 465 Thai categorised by colour, such as Red, Black and White Thai. Black Thai women wear The Thai (pop 1.4 million) originated in vibrant blouses and headgear, while White southern China before settling along the Thai tend to dress in contemporary clothing. riverbanks of the northwest from Hoa Binh Using a script developed in the 5th century, to Muong Lay. Villages consist of 40 or 50 the Thai have produced literature ranging thatched stilt houses. The Thai are usually from poetry and love songs to folk tales.

ETHNIC MINORITY ETIQUETTE 101

Though you’ll meet hill-tribe girls with mobile phones, the culture of Sapa’s ethnic minori- ties remains strong. Interaction with travellers threatens this, but visitors can minimise their impact. The following is adapted from a sign in Ta Van, a Giay village. » Avoid white headbands or bandanas; white is often worn at funerals. » Avoid public displays of affection and don’t wear revealing clothing » Don’t enter homes that have leaves, bones or feathers hanging from the entrance or roof. » When entering a home, take your backpack off and carry it in your hands. » If staying overnight, respect the villagers as they go to bed early. » Avoid photographing or touching the head of a newborn child. » Don’t take photographs of people without asking permission. » Set a good example by not using drugs or asking where you can purchase them. » Show respect for religious symbols and rituals. » Avoid cultivating begging. Rather than offering money for photography or handing out gifts to children, better ways to assist include employing a local guide, investigating charities in the area, or asking your guide if you can donate to a local school. OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 466 minorities, including H’mong, Nung and Where to Visit Tay. Lang Son also provides a home to these minority groups, but sees fewer tourists still. the Hill Tribes Down in the central highlands, Buon Ma Thuot, Dalat, Kon Tum and Pleiku are The best introduction to highland useful bases to meet Bahnar, Jarai and culture is Hanoi’s outstanding Sedang people. However, most families and highly informative Museum of here have forsaken their traditional Ethnology (p53 ) which has replica costumes, so meet-the-minorities tourism stilt houses and superb tribal art. has less pulling power than in the north. Vietnam’s minorities are spread throughout the northern and central MEET THE MINORITIES highlands. Sapa is the most popular place to encounter the hill tribes, including Sapa (p125 ) Dzao and H’mong people Black H’mong and Red Dzao. Close by inhabit the dramatic valleys around this are the colourful Flower H’mong markets hill station. around Bac Ha. Bac Ha (p133 ) Famous for its market, Homestays are a rewarding experience which draws Flower H’mong from far and and Mai Chau is famous for the warm wide. welcome of the White Thai people. Mai Chau (p118 ) Beautiful valley home of Other important minority centres in the the White Thai with many homestays. northwest include Ha Giang and Lai Chau. Cao Bang (p112 ) Rugged mountains with Further east, the province of Cao Bang a diverse range of minority groups. is a less-travelled region with several Kon Tum (p293 ) A base for minorities in the Central Highlands. Below Elderly Red Dzao woman at Sapa market LYNN GAIL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 467 A r c h i t e c t u r e in Vietnam Vietnamese Architecture » Colonial Buildings » Pagodas & Temples » Soviet Influences »

City Hall building, Ho Chi Minh City PETER STUCKINGS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 468 Vietnamese Design Traditional Vietnamese architecture is unusual, as most important buildings are single-storey structures with heavy tiled roofs based on a substantial wooden framework (to withstand ). In rural parts houses are chiefly constructed from timber and built in stilted style, so that the home is above seasonal floods (and away from and wild animals). Bamboo and palm leaves (for roofing) are also well suited to the tropical climate. Homes are usually divided into sections for sleeping, cooking and storage while livestock live below the house. Quirky Vietnamese styles include the narrow tube houses of Hanoi’s Old Quarter – the government collected tax according to the width of the commercial space, so the slimmer the cheaper. The Nung minority people’s homes are also unusual, sometimes built with mud walls and with only one part elevated on stilts. Consider the Vietnamese saying ‘land is gold’ as you survey a typical townscape today. Skinny concrete blocks of dubious architectural merit, many up to seven storeys high, soar above empty lots or loom above paddy fields. Planning laws (or the KRAIG LIEB / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © virtual lack of them) allow land owners to construct whatever they like, so cement constructions painted lime green or pink kitted out with mirror windows, built with vaguely French-inspired ornate balconies or Chinese details, are the flavour of the day in many places – the seafront in Cat Ba Town is one such example.

SKY HIGH » Bitexco Financial Tower (HCMC; 269m) Completed in 2010. Ascend to its Skydeck for stupendous Saigon views. » Keangnam Hanoi Landmark Tower (Hanoi; 345m) Topped out in 2011, this glass block is Vietnam’s highest building. » PVN Tower (Hanoi) ’s proposed capital tower, if built, will reach around 400m.

Clockwise from top left 1. Floating houses, Chau Doc 2. M’nong hill-tribe house near Dalat 3. Bahnar thatch house in Kon Tum village 469 ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © ANDREW BAIN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 470

C o l o n i a l ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Buildings Vietnam’s French legacy is pronounced in the nation’s architecture. Stately neo- classical buildings reinforced notions of European hegemony in the colonial era, and many still line grand city boulevards. After the 1950s, most of these were left to rot as they symbolised an era many wished to forget. However recent renovation programs have led to structures, such as the former Hôtel de Ville (People’s Committee Building) in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) and the Sofitel Metropole Hotel in Hanoi, being restored to their former glory. If you have a postcard to send in HCMC, stop to admire the spectacular halls and vaulted ceiling of the central post office – designed by Gustave Eiffel. Haiphong is another city with wonderful French designs. In Hanoi’s French Quarter many grand villas have fallen on hard times and are today worth a fortune to developers. Down in Dalat, French villas have been converted into hotels (including the spectacular Ana Mandara Villas) and restaurants. Colonial churches were built in a range of architectural styles. In Hanoi the sombre neo-Gothic form of St Joseph is enhanced by dark grey stone, whereas all the bricks used to construct Ho Chi Minh City’s cathedral were imported from France. Art deco curiosities built under French rule include Dalat’s wonderful train station, with its multi-coloured windows and the sleek La Residence Hotel in Hue.

COLONIAL STYLE » Balconies Elegant colonnaded balco- nies grace important municipal buildings. » Louvered windows Usually green or brown, these allow air to circulate. » Stucco features A decorative flourish. » Colour Classy ochre or pale mustard. » Terracotta roof tiles Evoke memories of the Mediterranean.

Clockwise from top left 1. The balconies of 2. Ho Chi Minh City Museum’s classical interior 3. Hanoi’s now-restored Sofitel Metropole Hotel 471 ANTONY GIBLIN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © GREG ELMS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 472 Pagodas & Temples Unlike other many Asian nations, Vietnamese religious structures do not follow a specific national prototype. Pagoda styles echo the unique religious make-up of the nation, with strong Chinese content (including Confucian, Tao and Mahayana Buddhist elements) while southern Cham temples reflect influences from India, Hindu culture and the Khmer empire. Pagodas Pagodas (chua) incorporate Chinese ornamentation and motifs and follow a similar design, with buildings grouped around garden courtyards and adorned with plenty of statues and stelae. Most have single or double roofs with elevated hip rafters, though there are some with multi-tiered towers (thap) like Hue’s Thien Mu Pagoda. Vietnamese pagodas are designed according to feng shui (locally called dia ly) to achieve harmony of surroundings. They’re primarily Buddhist places of

worship, even though they may be KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © dedicated to a local deity. Most are single- storey structures, with three wooden doors at the front. Inside are a number of chambers, usually filled with statues of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and assorted heroes and deities (Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea, is popular in coastal towns). Flashing fairy lights, giant smoking incense spirals, gongs and huge bells add to the atmosphere. Garden courtyards, many with and some with a sacred pond (perhaps filled with turtles), connect to other temple structures and there’s often accommodation for monks at the rear. Check out Hanoi’s Temple of Literature for a superb example of a traditional Vietnamese temple or the wonderful pagodas in Hue’s Imperial City.

Clockwise from top left 1. The altar within Pagoda, HCMC 2. Bich Dong Pagoda, Ninh Binh Province 3. Ha Chuong Hoi Quan Pagoda entrance, HCMC 473 DAVID GREEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © PHOTOLIBRARY / GETTY IMAGES © 474

CHAM TEMPLES ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © The Cham primarily practised the Hindu religion, worshipping the trinity of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu, though some elements of Buddhism were also introduced. Temple- building commenced as early as the 4th century. Important Cham sights with surviving structures include My Son (near Hoi An), Po Nagar (near Nha Trang), Po Klong Garai (near Phan Rang), and Po Shanu (Phu Hai) near Phan Thiet, but all these sights have been ravaged by time and some devastated by war. Most Cham temples were built from brick, with decorative carvings and detailing probably added later, cut into the brick sides of the monuments. The main features of a Cham complex include the kalan (tower, the home of the deity), saddle-roofed kosagrha temples (which housed valuables belonging to the gods) and the gopura gateway. Dotting the temple sites are stone statues of deities such as Yan Po Nagar (goddess of the country) and numerous stelae (My Son has 32) with inscriptions listing important events.

PAGODA FEATURES » Bodhisattvas Enlightened earthly figures usually depicted as royals. » Cheung Huang Yeh Greatly feared God of the City akin to the grim reaper. » Quan Am Goddess of Mercy – a pale figure or statue with multiple arms. » Swastika Ancient Asian sacred symbol that signifies the heart of the Buddha. » Thien Hau Goddess who provides protection at sea.

Clockwise from top left 1. Po Klong Garai Cham Towers near Phan Rang 2. Dancing Shiva depicted at Po Nagar Cham Towers, Nha Trang 3. Cham sculptures at My Son 475 ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 476

Soviet KIMBERLEY COOLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Influences Across Vietnam a Soviet influence is deeply evident in many concrete municipal buildings, marketplaces and apartment blocks. Most Soviet architecture was in the prefabricated style of the mid-1950s, using inexpensive concrete and archetypal Modernist lines. Even in small towns you can stumble across reminders of Vietnam’s past in the Soviet orbit: an austere concrete cinema facade in Hoi An or an ageing town hall. Soviet architects and planners, such as Garold Isakovich, spent extended periods in the North Vietnamese capital, designing both Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and the bust of Lenin in Lenin Park, Hanoi. Other prominent Soviet examples in Hanoi include the State Bank, a blend of Soviet and Asian styles; the brutalist-style People’s Committee building; and the National

Assembly, which shows a Le Corbusier GREG ELMS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © influence. Meanwhile, in HCMC, there’s less Soviet style about (unsurprisingly given the city’s history). The one building that stands out is Reunification Palace. Completed in 1966, it’s a concrete masterpiece designed by Ngo Viet Thu. To see the results of communist planning, head to Vinh in North-Central Vietnam. Decades of incessant bombing reduced the city to rubble (only two buildings were left standing in 1972). East German architects and planners reinvented the city in the mould of their homeland, with cheap, hastily-erected concrete apartment buildings that have aged poorly, suffering from a lack of maintenance. The buildings have a quirky appeal, though remain unpopular with residents.

Right 1. A Reception Room at the Reunification Palace, HCMC 2. Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum at dusk, Hanoi 477 R e g i o n a l Specialities

Crab rice-paper rolls, served with fresh dipping sauce OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 478

By Andrea Nguyen. Andrea is the acclaimed author of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen and Asian . She also publishes Vietworldkitchen.com. Vietnam’s cuisine is as multifaceted as its lengthy coastline. Travelling north to south is a journey that, geographically and gastronomically, begins in China and ends in Southeast Asia. Despite being a small country, there are differences in the regional dishes of Vietnam – differences with roots in history, culture and geography. This has resulted in a fascinating spectrum of techniques, ingredients and tastes, all linked by the Vietnamese love for vibrant flavours, fresh herbs, and seafood. The dishes of Vietnam’s north tend to be mild, somewhat rustic and have a significant Chinese influence. Soy is used as frequently as fish sauce, vinegar is more likely to add sourness than lime juice or tamarind, chillies give way to black pepper, and long cooking is used to coax maximum flavour from unpretentious ingredients. Everything seems smaller in central Vietnam; baguettes and herbs are miniature versions of their southern selves, while

Hue’s imperial cuisine is a procession of GREG ELMS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © dainty, delicate dishes. Emperor Tu Duc was a demanding diner, but his legacy is some of the best food in Vietnam. Imperial- style banquets, including up to 15 dishes, can be booked at a few high-end hotels, but one edible legacy of the royal court is easily found on the street: banh beo, delicate steamed cakes made from rice . The central Vietnamese also like gutsy and spicy flavours, and briny shrimp sauce and spritely lemongrass add to the cornucopia of flavours. In southern Vietnam the food reflects the region’s natural abundance and year-round growing season. Dishes are bigger, colourful and attractive. Coconut milk is the base for mild and also lends richness to sweets. The southern love of fresh herbs, fruit and comes to the fore in refreshing goi (salads), of green papaya, grapefruit-like pomelo, or lotus stems.

Clockwise from top left 1. Market produce in HCMC 2. Street sellers preparing food, HCMC 3. Dining at a street stall, Hanoi Old Quarter GREG ELMS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © TONY BURNS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 479 480

North JTB PHOTO COMMUNICATIONS, INC / ALAMY © Northern Vietnamese food most clearly bears the imprint of the centuries of Chinese occupation. Comforting dishes, generally mild flavours and rustic elegance are all hallmarks of the region’s cuisine. Banh Cuon These rolls are made from rice-fl our bat- 1 ter that’s poured onto a piece of muslin cloth stretched over a steamer; once fi rm, the noodle sheet is scattered with chopped pork, mushrooms and dried shrimp, then rolled up, sprinkled with crispy shallots, and served alongside a tangle of bean sprouts, slivered cucumber and chopped fresh herbs, with a saucer of nuoc cham (dipping sauce) for drizzling. This street favourite features barbecued 2 sliced pork or pork patties served with thin , a heap of fresh herbs and green vegetables, and a bowl of lightly sweetened nuoc mam (fi sh sauce) with fl oat- ing slices of pickled vegetables. The Hanoi version combines sliced pork belly and pork patties formed from chopped pork shoulder. Bo A culinary highlight of the north is pho bo 3 (beef ). A good pho hinges on the broth, which is made from beef bones boiled for hours in water with shallot, ginger, fi sh sauce, black cardamom, star anise and cassia. Hardcore northern pho lovers frown upon adding lime, basil, and bean sprouts to their bowls.

Clockwise from top left 1. Making banh cuon 2. Bowl of bun cha 3. A Vietnamese classic, pho bo (beef-noodle soup) from a street cart 481 PAVLOS CHRISTOFOROU / ALAMY © MARTIN ROBINSON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 482 Centre Positioned between culinary extremes, the food of central Vietnam seems to be the product of moderation and balance – except where it concerns the locals’ love of chilli. People cook from the land, turning their modest resources into fare fit for an emperor. Banh Khoai These hearty, dessert-plate-sized crepes 1 are made with rice-fl our batter and cooked with copious amounts of oil in special long-handled pans. They feature a spare fi lling of shrimp, pork, egg and bean sprouts, are encased with fresh herbs in lettuce, and then dunked in a sauce based on earthy fermented soybeans. Bun Bo Hue This punchy rice- noodle soup with 2 beef and pork exemplifi es the central Vietnamese proclivity for spicy food. Tinged -orange by chillies and annatto, the

broth is laden with lemongrass notes and REBECCA SKINNER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © anchored by savoury shrimp sauce (mam tom). Like most Vietnamese noodle soups, it’s accompanied by a riot of herbs and leafy greens. Com Hen Room temperature rice is served with 3 the fl esh of tiny clams, their cooking broth, and myriad garnishes that include roasted rice crackers, crisp pork crackling, peanuts, sesame seeds, fresh herbs and vegetables. Add the broth and sauce to the other ingredients in your bowl; the liquid components moisten, season and harmonise.

Clockwise from top left 1. Banh khoai (folded rice crepe with savoury filling) 2. Com hen, made with tiny clams 3. Spicy bun bo Hue 483 REBECCA SKINNER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © ROBERTLAMPHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK © 484

South GREG ELMS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Southern cuisine plays up the region’s abundance and tends to be on the sweet side. No matter the season, vendors at southern markets display heaps of lush, big- leafed herbs, fruits in every colour and the freshest fish possible. Canh Chua Ca This soup is the Mekong Delta in a 1 bowl: plentiful fi sh, usually snakehead or catfi sh; fruits like tomato and pineapple; and vegetables including bean sprouts, okra and bac ha (taro stem), all in a broth that’s tart with tamarind and salty with nuoc mam. Topped with vivid green herbs and golden fried garlic, it’s as lovely to look at as it is to taste. Banh Mi This is a legacy of French and 2 Chinese colonialism, but it’s 100% Vi- etnamese. The baguette merely encases the REBECCA SKINNER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © fi lling, which might be a smearing of pâté or a few slices of silky sausage and a sprinkling of pepper. Mayonnaise moistens the bread and a sprinkling of soy sauce imparts umami (savoury) goodness. Banh Xeo This giant crispy, chewy rice crepe is 3 made in 12- or 14-inch skillets or woks and amply fi lled with pork, shrimp, mung beans and bean sprouts. Take a portion and encase it in lettuce or mustard leaf, add some fresh herbs, then dunk in the nuoc cham. Hu Tieu This noodle soup is a Chinese original 4 that the Vietnamese deliciously ap- propriated. The noodles can be chewy clear tapioca noodles, opaque white like you’d use for pho noodle soup, or thin Chinese egg noodles. The toppings also vary and may include boneless pork, pork ribs, pork off al, shrimp, squid, Chinese celery, fried garlic, fried shallot, and/or garlic chives.

Right 1. Hot and sour fish soup, canh chua ca 2. Crisp banh mi 485

Food & Drink If you’re the sort of traveller who believes that eating locally is one of the best ways to immerse yourself in a culture, prepare to be amazed by Viet- nam. From traditional street stalls to contemporary big-city temples of up- scale dining, the country serves up an endless banquet of exquisite eating. Diverse landscapes – fertile highlands, waterlogged rice paddies, forest-cloaked mountains and sandy coasts – lend the cuisine variety, while a long history of contact with outsiders brings complexity. Over the centuries locals have absorbed and adapted Chinese, Indian, French and even Japanese techniques and specialities to their own kitchens and pal- ates, and expatriates and Vietnamese chefs who have spent time overseas are breathing new life into the white-tablecloth dining scenes in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). In Vietnam, to ‘eat local’ can mean any- thing from supping on rice-fl our vermicelli fl avoured with fi sh sauce, to feasting on beef stew accompanied by a crispy baguette. The country’s vast range of excellent edibles invites experimentation. Though Vietnam’s well-known classics – pho, spring rolls, and shrimp paste grilled on sugar cane – are all well and tasty, it pays to venture into the unknown. Every bustling wet market, every bicycle-riding vendor and every open-air eatery is a potential trove of delights that rarely make it beyond the country’s borders. Keep your eyes open, follow your nose, and you’ll depart with mouth-watering memories that will have you say- ing Hen gap laii (see you again). Flavours Vietnamese palates vary from north to south, but no matter where they are, local cooks work to balance hot, sour, salty and sweet fl avours in each dish. Sugar’s centrality to the cuisine is best illustrated by the ever popular kho: a sweet-savoury dishes of fi sh or meat simmered in a clay pot with fi sh sauce and another oft-used seasoning, bitter caramel sauce made from cane sugar. Vietnamese cooks also use sugar to sweeten dip- ping sauces, desserts and, of course, coff ee. Sweetness is countered with fruity tartness, derived from the lime wedges mounded in bowls on restaurant tables (to squeeze into noodle soups and dipping sauces) and from kalamansi (a small green-skinned, orange-fl eshed citrus fruit that tastes like a cross between a lime and a mandarin), the juice of which is combined with salt and black pepper as a dip for seafood, meats and omelettes. In the south, the tart pulp of the tamarind pod is mixed with water and strained, then added as a sour- ing agent to a fi sh and soup called canh chua and a delectable dish of whole prawns coated with sticky sweet-and-sour sauce. Northern cooks who seek sourness are more likely to turn to vinegar. A clear, yel- lowish vinegar mixed with chopped ginger is often served alongside snail specialities such as bun oc (rice noodle and snail soup). Vietnamese cooking uses less hot chilli than Thai cuisine, though cen- tral Vietnamese cooks do use more of them than their fellow nationals.

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as an accom as an . . is dark p is only the tip laying u laying , c mam d inary souvenirs ackets of p l o ut a , an m p ed to accom ed to , tend to be more eshy variety eshy that b u igot near the con pho fl am d ) un m acked in oil. Vietacked n p , b a southern s p pp ui ot sh, both whole and d y through the once m q p p, sh sauce reserved for i e bl l oc t salt – the coastal area spicy chi using a , re , ats – . At the table, it fl aste d p ean – cu g b d. Vietname nu p has close cousins in every t p b l ro on oo m sh release a fragrant sh l p ecimen serveecimen well om mam , , t ( e than its stench might im p soy , and various ty sh sauce), which is so elemen- l urchased at a Vietnameseurchased at wet d eaf ies an fi t d ers come face-to-face with s p through a s ll p) ( ff b er rolls, and even serves as a di ers, ll ecialities like ecialities like Vietnamese eatery p l d p roducts, ungent, Vietnamese black m sh (most often anchovies) that are extra virgin’ fi extra virgin’ a ‘ s also used extensively in cooking, Mam p am p in their own ’ chi called nuoc mam cot is famous for its p . , ) d d curried goat hot Vietnamese cooks use avoure (chicken (chicken with coconut cooked m ( fl p)

, with market stalls dis le a range of dishes made with it: the sh - a ising in Hue cuisine. Beware Hue ising in – the as many versions in Vietnam, as many inc oc 381 p p l ian tra m dried fermente de ld of all sizes ll u o d ercorns season everythingercorns season from (p d ne edible souvenir. p n u merge mam, e-chartreuses groun s b l ermarkets to shame; if your coun back home pp la i d a rinkled over a bowl of rice, it’s considered a considered rice, it’s rinkled over a bowl of e p ca ri ga y In p p p b oint most trave me fr p o uid. The latter is oftenuid. The barbecued latter and sold from is much more su and and sh su sh as rst extraction rst q ish d ) ecially small shrim c m uid that is drawn o uid that is drawn h ll for a few them more months, is used sh and leaving p nd all sorts and sizes of dried fi oyster an q , so y. white Vietnamese’ originates in southern Cambodia), and in southern Cambodia), originates Vietnamese’ ‘ li is made from small fi the fi d ) suc al p , er s s, smeared onto rice- m aste of salted, fermented shrim fi 000d makes a fi a 000d makes owder and small jars of curry s to foo iments in many a centra iments in many refer the milder version made around coastal Phan Thietrefer the milder version made around coastal Phan , am p p es ee an i p d ur d p k . to a year. As they ferment the fi to a year. k ort of Hoi An; now they’re u cooked ort of Hoi o avoured – essentially an avoured nuoc mam ungent salty backbone to s ungent salty a punch. Drie a punch. m to Vietnam p fl p ies varyies mi the from e most common en erg. At some p k ac d l to beef stew. Wonderfully Wonderfully to beef stew. to ll oc h b av ) con ast the odour and sam bl fl d u

ut what’s sold in su ut what’s Nha Trang is the site of numerous sa Nha Trang such as soy p p , uce ond d p d N es, to the sma es, to ). h chi y d l s sh-and-vegetable noodle sou a violet y pac ortant , fi eto dl ears in many southern dishes and is served dishes southern many ears in cho llets, and dried s ll fi p Be Fi When it comes to fermented fi Vietnam is a huge peppercorn exporter (though it’s said that much said that Vietnam exporter is a huge peppercorn it’s (though Vietnamese food’s saltiness comes from Vietnamese food’s 256 bl lace for u antry. T antry. orridge uite choosy about dried shrim romatic than pp om avour it avour in aroun to get fermented seafood sauces that grace the shelves of everyfermented seafood sauces Vietnamese ta meal. for cooking. Phu Quoc Island for cooking. Quoc Island Phu table use. The extraction, second obtained by adding salted water to the already fermented fi pepper labelled pepper labelled of China’s almost 1000-year rule over the country’s north. Warm s almost 1000-year north. rule over the country’s Warm of China’s ern lending a market 50 for milk and lemongrass a im namese curr ity, is made from es ity, fl q of the ice t Southeast Asian cuisine, as we p The fi bottom. tainer’s (p p tal to the cuisine that, s with salt in large earthenware, concretelayered containers, or wooden weighte p corns try bag will allow it in, a half-kilogram Loca specia in restaurants paniment like star anise and cinnamon are essential to a good star anise and cinnamon are essential like might say stinky might say sauces ones made from crabs, shrim rea a for sour fruits like green mango. It for sour fruits like noo grades. You’ll also fi grades. You’ll and richly some cooks intro made curry groun roving stalls to noodle sou

Kim Fay’s offers a real a real offers nation, shifting nation, nied by recipes recipes nied by rants. Engaging Engaging rants. seafood restau- seafood Communion – A A – Communion from street food from insight into Viet- insight into Culinary Journey Culinary Journey nam’s wonderful wonderful nam’s text is accompa- text Through Vietnam Through stalls to exquisite exquisite to stalls and photographs. food scene as the scene food author travels the author travels

486 FOOD & DRINK FLAVOURS

FOOD & DRINK STAPLES

487

DECODER MENU MENU words and words meal times. meal come in handy at come phrases that may that may phrases list of Viet namese namese Viet of list Turn to p530 for a p530 for to Turn

, - - - - - ) s e e e y y a k d d d l- g oc d bo d e e or dl or f k rice ams the dl ( er p l nu

Hue, ff oodl iar to d a arins; un l l l ishes. to the to y b

d sh an sh o ecomes d . It can n g or fi b to have ) d b y quan e noo d is ma eaves for eaves ort town d

k e carame l ’ (literall l an, in d any ever any reen-and eria chao l ish of rice p d m d e g p p dl d

or m Tiny c Tiny into sweet ers an . e ed with bar Pho e fami man h p d

k l k tuff sesame see . a er an b n e m ay an , d

s anie unti meat, k pp d d a n co l

g d noo ll bi p ld , t d anana ht’ owin roth to moisten. ement in A d if made from red of time. Coo ice ‘ l g b ( b l ecomes our, rice our, d li fl routs, fresh greens wi e b ‘ s l y roya ers. Li om l an p in oi avoured broth; it is avoured c d b d white, red and black fl d cuon d ink ( asi a every y quan h l p l oo or or snac accom b l es that are sai into ahea b m d eanuts an , rice uan com ecue d d ean s an . dl p k e q b s ale b b y frie

then mou l am

d

c to the ancient c to ll p mea d are ar uc in central Vietnam lk b sweets to crac d ion. Look for also u d on sa guests e d l Thai ne versions, featuring a rich, b p d anese tra fresh’ and fresh’ g d d d fi

er, an er, ow ‘ ll noo y. Other northern-sty y. Vietnam. Other characteristi d go l ecifi p l e e ro b re d b in groun invariably shows up atop bowls shows up atop invariably corn, y a, n p ase s l ( p kl d d i, an d or h dl b d

l . , slivered banana blossoms, herbs ll i m anche sh sauce), it’s sh sauce), it’s y Ja es an fi o om p rie rin b an bl y a varietystir-frie of with just enough an x ish s that are a centra d p dl d un c u

, ery Vietnamese corian b s ishes inc d avoure d d ities

e b ishes e noo l and though this northern dish gets all k e d d cucum d l k ) d of Vietnamese im cuisine. In d e e sh, ee e pp d Ra steame ice

fi istinguishe k coconut mi e or to come eateries ca ll e l d d dl p d d p ouse d d p ecia rate u dl ay Vietnameseay mea ice

oodl rought l l d (rice-paddy herb), which has delicate leaves herb), which has delicate (rice-paddy anie y s roc p d d d ers’ that Vietnamese moisten before using to b en,

l an p ise fl anise- d s p k m l . Sticky or glutinous rice . Sticky d to k ork, shrim ity from centra ity e d , rough-texture ity. Soa ity. a d om l east one rice- es l n d p l b k or e ‘p cumin. u with dl thin p h rice n ecia , d a d ecia d p r ecia other s au, a noo p l broken’ into short steamed, to grains, broken’ p d ots ‘ , accom , fast treat ca un ing out inc ff com ll a noo n an ses or rehy k roth are har o Hong Kong-sty Hong at rice noodles with l k fl e o b s eat at b ed with ll d eanuts, an ( l u leaves; small and pointy, pleasantly peppery pleasantly astringent and pointy, small leaves; Cao eef s s an k ices of stewe with sugar an ress, the truth is that tru er, mint an mint er, p l with thin rice vermice p e rea b ll and o is the very

ing sauce of sweetened pp d em p a Tet s a Tet d . Sha a t was serve , an egg, an d b d it of sweetness when s re sautée l Vietnamese noo l d oca g; s a l ed with gorgeous fresh herbs that seem to accom that seem to fresh herbs gorgeous ed with k the r l ishes, at s b a ph , ro f e illa s pp

to p ayere d icy, icy, o d l y state with chic ) ; fried in a hot wok with egg,; fried in a hot wok with vegetables and other ingredients, or h n hu a er ) ing i jam. leaves; and leaves; a p with e is moistened with just a smidge of richly pp p un p e c ung, l of the stu le y ma p ays ays ll ll

with s d inary b a di h h

m ll an bl l dd ll e mixe es are an anytime-of- u ( d

d

t d p e

ase for everything from noo our b am fi c sa . Corian b nh e fl d l b lau dl , a h cho restaurants serving chea p ng m y centra e com ran

l i d If you’re a noodle lover, do yourself a favour and look for dishes fea do yourself a favour a noodle lover, If you’re Vietnamese is often food as described ca d u r a ce, or com, ll ll pp

so ue, a s ra i ishes worth see atties serveatties orridge lates hea ecue an arne n nyone who’s travelled elsewhere the re in travelled who’s nyone our a ice ice with sa o ur he cu he reats, or o a sou hese hat hint or a fi let’s eat rice’), it’s an invitation to lunch or dinner, and you can also get to lunch or dinner, invitation an it’s eat rice’), let’s carefu It’s eaten with rice crackers (crumbled over to add crunch) and sweet (crumbled over to add crunch) eaten with rice crackers It’s hot chi An, features thic of Hoi origins in the so cao t r a t H ca t d p Noodle Noo with b t w is mixe f al t b ch c over rice to ma vegeta ma t p t bowl of rice to departed ancestors. If a Vietnamese ‘ says ‘ y Sta Ric R r t of ise a g ra p sheets that reca it’s it’s mea dry round, translucent noodles tinted yellow with annatto seeds or noodles tinted yellow with annatto

- - - o, at ce ed ha (a i ce wn F bac i sh p

a ring ph

. o fi lled n root

. The r p d n r , such a ) p (crab g - h n r ll ( aa hi

hi is found u summer’ lled with t ll break ulverised ‘ , m r c cham e an re t o t p

e m l loc a y a cris

am dish of cool n n er. Steamed er. ( to order by oc ) ork, crunchy g p p ie ca m rotrudes from er cigars fi p .

a in t nu p ver p mi m p eu cua g ( in bowls of a i, i bean-thread noo- sh such as tuna, ities as we ities as p ot with a curried o p ( l small clams salad’ or ( (Vietnamese pan- p h ‘ t

n oc nhoi hap la xa et otato,

ed in un r h r ecia p b . and eaten r t t p hen pp s Mie an un mam, a stron . rawns, crabs and clams.rawns, fo t , . bi ed with lemongrass and b b s p

e s ork, intended to fi r ao thin rice- pp with straigh dl p bo , cooked jicama jicama , cooked o into lentiful river deltas, seafood x d a, p t i g p and pi eaten in hot hi g es tomatoes, pineapp es tomatoes, er of crab fat sautéed with shal- ( (wild pepper leaves) and grilled. pepper leaves) (wild t t ring rolls d resse p Bo Bo u lot or cho d , in broth with noodles, or scoo l

, in ularly known as cantly more challen en also fo er of noo s delicate ne la . ), p oc p b b broken rice, scents the air of many a rice, scents the air of many broken ull out the meat o o lled with sweet nifi com p p -marinated fi p g sh

. fi , croutons’ made from the same dough as dough the same from made croutons’ aste, are usually knocked u aste, are usually knocked un n -fried s ) eats include the well-loved ‘ is made with water from a particular with water is made well her b p p am ed in d h few believe every that served bowl today u ue he . A length of lemongrass leaf . A length l da g ed with a stir-fried mixture of seafood, meatsed with a stir-fried mixture au )

H m pp l uently seen but does show u h bun thit nuong inach and herbs. And then there’s uare uare pp q rmed int n an eye o oc y dee eciality eciality p e q o roth that inc ork, rice noodles and herbs and are meant to beork, rice noodles and herbs p cao p p rotein. From the ocean comes fi rotein. From

almost anything in crackly rice almost anything ba b p nu ( c p p

, y s routs an Fow . aim to a num aim to e oats a heavenly lay oats a heavenly l g p p oodl fl er and sea bass, as well as p rotein include goat )

dl p & e found in ork are widely eaten. In the mornings the tantalising ork are widely eaten. In p em cuon n , and wra aste or hoisin sauce. pp ) b p ay c n d igree p l addies yield minuscule crabs and golf ball-sized snails sh, and along the central coast, a to encounter the latter in most restaurants to encounter the latter d ean s l p y that are f e b a s s p . Authenti beef stew with tomato

( s ed into the snail shells and steamed , lettuce and chilli , lettuce , catfi es, ff

rice-noo ) dle ) s or fried and to rawns, water s rawns, fresh , . In northern Vietnam . In the former Meat ool d p dl p dle bo , oo

oc sh , frogs, insect Delta – rat, although larvaethe Mekong and – yes, in stu

and eaten with steamed and eaten with steamed fi , ) oo )

made from mung-bean starch are stir-fried with made from mung-bean ed in bean d northern-style cris ther favourite freshwater ther favourite cross Vietnam, kee ) ce-Paper Rolls ce-Paper (An identically named but si (An identically cuon, a southern s kho i with rice crackers with rice crackers O Southerners Southerners A Chicken and ur n i,

i the c pp o p i les omfret, red sna ickled a. roth s ou’re unlikel ou’re rab shells; on to alle avoure and are oftensh and grilled meats rolled at the table with herbs, lettuce n latter are eaten with rice in latter herbs a rice noo is a major source of with slices of Chinese shrim sausage, dried Flooded rice the n each snail shell – give it a tug to carries that carries y fast baguette and to fast baguette i seared beefsteak Other sources of b sort of Vietnamese escargot fl in central Vietnam. fl and herbs, and cris and herbs, and thou Old Town, An’s in Hoi u c no Fish long coastline and Thanks to Vietnam’s p c d p d meat R Vietnamese will wra vegetable noodles in a crimson-hued broth made from tomatoes and noodles in a crimson-hued broth made from tomatoes rolls, contain shrim head roll: soft city street.city Beef is less fre go street has its own version of the s vendors with mobile carts. Hue into sou h and vegetables in gravy for a dish called m and vegetables in gravy grilled meat in leafy greens. Chinese-style egg Chinese-style grilled meat in leafy greens. noodles fi green banana, and di slices of sour star fruit and lots. Snails can aroma of barbecuin INFLUENCE

banh banh FRENCH FRENCH mi, banh in Vietnam. sandwiches sandwiches (eaten plain (eaten stuffed with stuffed or dipped in French, French, meats, vegies vegies meats, and pickles. If and pickles. beef stew and stew beef A legacy of the of legacy A soups) and the soups) flour baguettes baguettes flour crackly crusted crusted crackly refers to the the to mi refers rice and wheat- rice sold everywhere everywhere sold stuffed stuffed made with them, made with them, you haven’t tried haven’t you you haven’t eaten eaten haven’t you

488 FOOD & DRINK STAPLES FOOD & DRINK DRINKS

489

TEA seeds. blended-to- smoothie. It smoothie. Keep an eye an eye Keep and jasmine Northerners Northerners fragrant non- fragrant treat yourself yourself treat stalls stocked stocked stalls and a blender, and a blender, out for sinh to out for where you can can you where to a refreshing a refreshing to caffeinated tea tea caffeinated order iced fruit iced order avocado, which avocado, as a fruit rather as a fruit rather tea, while in the tea, fruits (including fruits with a variety of of with a variety favour hot green hot green favour made from lotus made from Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum popular; particu- Vietnamese treat treat Vietnamese big chunks of ice. ice. of big chunks than a vegetable) than a vegetable) often served over over served often doesn’t get much get doesn’t fresher than that. fresher infusions are also also infusions are south the same is the same south larly delicious is a

------) a d i es p os sh p ee uash bl orte y-rice y and called uality, q p k ( ittance p q rout on irits, in p p ancakes is added p lants (de p aa alm seeds, ending on p ow s stic e im

l p p e them sim ll d h p (ice cream), k e ), cucumbers, i avoured with avoured y every street fragrant m l ll fl l d . bac s . ower stems are ower stems l kem am tom rang me – tom rang sweetened with . Whi , ass for a l andan and coff d the beaten track ically southern in- ff m p am lace. De oca p l e your thirst. Sooner p oc like tious shaved-ice treat, tious shaved-ice k otus-fl , m otatoes, eggotatoes, l u s which, like the more s which, like (desserts) are popular mushrooms s mushrooms a p or all three. The com

l p er of its own s g p eaves an eaves n which tastes like a cross which tastes like oc p d ld l ets; ( y the g b u k b uite goo rawns in rawns n ork and shrim er q p (‘fresh’ or draught beer) – or draught (‘fresh’ Ha Noi. Disti Noi. Ha i s on seeming p d eg esh d p fl k y e hoi avours like like avours

p ll fl ork and ork and ing in icious wi uid might sound strange, but in p risingly refreshing l ink guavas, juicy lychees and lon ink guavas, q bia e ossoms an ossoms p cris in many desserts, in many while the French . a ca pp p amarind is a ty ( everages to s ist sho d , shredding it, dressing it with fi , shredding it, dressing p rews a num come in a wide assortment of sha l bl

T raught, is ) b ) do trang mieng do trang b dk revalent during festivals, when sweet . d ic. Bunches of sunshine-ye ic. Bunches eo l . s to s p b ant with ten ecia assionfruit and jackfruit. Hue cooks treat Hue assionfruit and jackfruit. is sur x vo oral p p h p pl and ay a little more for a beer of better more for a beer of better little a ay

t n ) s aragus than che p ht in southern mar ht in southern sorts of ld d p d g ll ba e ecially l p with gar p straight from the ed with ground ed with manner of d ott a wi irt-chea d s’ that combine ingredients like lotus seeds or ta lotus s’ that combine ingredients like ic. A ll l er succum b d p (water spinach), get spinach), the stir-fry treatment. Especial- (water pp our is the base for many dessertsour is the base for many ll ly, g fl e e, traditional cakes ensive, Vietnam bl (which means, literally, ‘alcohol’) is often means, literally, (which ( sou ith rice cracker en ‘

bl p a arcels suitable for di t horrible, and La brewed on the central coast and Rue, ’ l a w h u ot on steamy days ot on steamy p hi

(salads), a thick, spongy(salads), a thick, plant stem called k ou t n ) p

i with gar e ex d ru ba s are serve rin

d b goi

f d d d s rau muong rau Vietnamese sweets o o s e

(

ll s n s, an oors during the rainy season, and if you’re o season, and if you’re during the rainy oors t ran fl o are sweet lovely layered agar-agar jellies in lovely layered p o etables& Frui b avours. avours. Rice earls and coconut milk; they’re also a scrum g fl

e int ing a h, g l p ater every trave aragus – to the exotic.aragus Banana d l ture, there exists a d uence is evident sweets in crème caramel. Cold Che If you’re a fruit lover you’ve a fruit come to the right If you’re uor can l e mm etnamese use to wra p ac y stir-frie ossoms are a common si ossoms are a ith coconut milk, condensed milk, sugar syru hen you’re travelling you’ll travelling be able to gorge on mangoes, cris hen you’re ine ca u o n i eanuts. Yellow mung beans turn u eanuts. Yellow ots, hit the s q its of agar-agar jelly, white or red beans, corn, and other bits is doused its of agar-agar jelly, ination of beans, corn and sweet li etween artichoke and as ou’re unlikely to go thirsty in Vietnam to go thirsty where, thanks to a healthy drinking unlikely ou’re ddition to being delicious, nd-coconut, and locally made sweetened yoghurt sold in small glass s verywhere, and are es oung jackfruit as a vegetable, boiling the u orner. If you’re looking to If you’re orner. hen you might also be treated to tender fern ti also be treated to tender hen you might o sou h or which a mound of ice crystals your choice of toddy with orest i oca sauce, scattering the lot with sesame seeds, and serving the lot sauce, scattering the dish gredient; it also sauces shelled or unshelled gredient; it also sauces more often avai varietie sour green or soft and tartly fl ma p l cl w l c Drink Y c b w b a p oca f t a D e Sweet gans, and exotic mangosteen, y b into bite-sized w t co which watercress, and mustard, such as lettuce, ly loved are leafy greens V soms, is eaten stir-frie soms, is eaten bl pl f Vegetables range from the mundane – tomatoes, – tomatoes, the mundane range from Vegetables to grilled and licious a t V nom mit non in restaurants, eateries an Saigon Beer isn and messy but rewarding sweet-tart dish infl sugar and coconut milk and enriched with lotus seeds, sesame seeds and sugar and coconut milk and enriched with lotus or

. - - - e o d h . e, le w is ts, t g es k ) ess p p h g aste. ian dl tions n l n th da p i p

round, si ooded , a fact joints. e

re ne cutting et foo ’ i p rece g reciated o d a eateries k Ita i; throu p l r d ph d t k pp ( ere a ui ace to graze c g with sweet- q

l i run d bia hoi l fruit juices to an or d amans d that serves cus d ian an l er with his yo er, less aromatic er, a ll a d p , wet-mar . k be wary. Any dish Any be wary. ame, basic eys measure it out , fl d ddl k is mixe as en ee an oo is more than a ce or sta f d y internationa d uitous as l e pe d s culinary and cultural ed out of the wholesale sugar-cane juice that is ’ q atey. Other atey. sh sauce or shrim d bl e still. ‘Mock meat’ restau e still. ‘Mock l fi iste ulation, and cafes (either aulation, and cafes (either pp e rice e rice ee joc ueeze of g l ortance seldom a ing with Buddhist k p q i ca phe sua da treet p y o l p ( s Cholon, or Chinese district), oy. s ’ ll j p ueeze Moroccan, In Moroccan, and soy milk q d ); asses – an l out cia ishes, are the perfect p y s osion of tru b are as ubi l ) d of expatriates to Ho Chi Minh City Chi Minh of expatriates Ho to etarian on the 1st and 15th of days er challen sherry- pl most choco , producer; when the country producer; when fl g -limits. Otherwise d l e e it the hum ff e gg d b strong – coff es, one eatery or another in Vietnam is ee oo t in HCMC d k ans aysian an aysian o ve shop or a fancy restaurant. If you e shot g l. i l p . The not landed bad news is that you have l g an ex laces use tofu and gluten to create meat-like u can a bi a fresh chairs or a one-ven g g bl coff , tea in the home or offi tea in the home has a social im has a social o over ice with a s is d p g an d ) g a pho d d ecome a k d

ru d. Drink b e

les but secretly miss their bacon butties. Found les but secretly miss their bacon butties. lastic stools d aration, serving of tea and drinking l a d itate p p p & es an p ies in the air. In kee In ies in the air. to rice with si to seek out for those who want to remain true to to seek out for those who want to remain true re mi ing away a morning or an afternoon a morning over en ing away Thai, Ma bl y hee d l (snake wine), supposedly a cure-all elixir. Cobras and a cure-all wine), supposedly (snake elixir. lk g ere l p not squeamish a d e es an n rinci reci ors serving everything from coff ustoms milk ee, with or without d licity. Essentials consist of a strong licity. k d es in Vietnam are offi an p i p d so a major mi p l u k ee is thic l , a simp e off ity, it is a ritua ity, l s that resem C ies, they also adore much of what crawls on the ies, they also adore much of what crawls etarian dinin d l in the north

ll b u r p g g o e ish an with ta steame an, you’re facin an, you’re et. Whi ita & h in recent years a fl k g k p d p cu c ru ense d

ll e sta ucers rare r d ices, fruits and even animals. Travel to the northern to highlands even and fruits ices, Travel animals. d y refreshing serve d e d p nearly 10 years ago, the bottom dro bottom nearly 10 years ago, the t neglect French and Chinese restaurants. Though not as com- t neglect French t ll ’ ) si Heaven, for the Vietnamese are voracious omnivores. While they Heaven, etarians & Ve es an ood news there is now more choice than ever is that before when d g

con er sho un g bamboo straws from a communal vessel. And you’ll And communal vessel. from a straws bamboo undoubtedly g Hanoi have have Hanoi dl you may you may d p o ecia g ee mar Don In Vietnam the In Vietnam is a d d

ff uth an p most certain to cater to them, ith sma ro y Western visitors. Servin visitors. y Western l s ne ousin o fresh fruit smoothies blended to order fresh fruit smoothies blended

egacy. An egacy. entities that even hardened carnivores en in Ve that pro it comes to ve mon as they used to be (exce noo an of vegetables may well have been cooked with been cooked of vegetables well have may each lunar month; this is a great time to scour the marketseach lunar month; this is a great time to scour and sam throughout Vietnam, these Habits Habits Enter the Vietnamese that good food kitchen and you will be convinced comes from sim dearly love ve rants are somethin Ve The courts, with ven l ( Where to Eat Whatever your p tomers seated on tiny so b ture of hos herbs, s herbs, e c c Vietnamese coff w e many other sna other many chea the world market robusta beans (arabica’s with enc If you’re ve If you’re swims in the sea or fl many vendors and eateries many dishes that would otherwise be o their vegetarian to the cuisine an lon glasses of iced coff in Vietnam inc a roa serving Tur something of a ritual for Vietnam’s male something for Vietnam’s of a ritual they serve up an important part of Vietnam a an

TIMES MEAL MEAL no set dining no set between 11am between open for lunch open for 10pm or 11pm. 10pm stalls are open are stalls hours, but as a hours, There are often often are There dinner between dinner between taurants usually usually taurants the day and into and into the day the night. Street Street the night. 5pm or 6pm and are open most of of open most are and 3pm, and for and for and 3pm, the morning until from very early in early very from late at night. Res- at night. late general rule cafes rule cafes general

490 FOOD & DRINK WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

FOOD & DRINK COOKING COURSES

491 LEARN experience. a taste of the of a taste ing, try a short ing, If you are set on set are If you once you’ve had you’ve once course in Hoi An in Hoi course and negotiate for for and negotiate something longer longer something serious studies in studies serious Vietnamese cook- Vietnamese

- - e a d bl a an itch l l laced for k p p etween. Kitchen ow ( er them er b b iners serve d in courses have

es back home. k rice g d l p a morsel or two p erience to friends; y an snac s through the coun p ot or two. The ot or two. d d p p hotos, but off

p . Cookin d Lunch startsee or tea. a centra ering from a restaurant Baguettes are avai Baguettes g . d d ay an ao ene tar. d k l ch ac aroun ers went home to eat with their ers went home to eat with s a bl with coff l - k d ll ll es or . When or y street is a time for cafes. Dinner l dl b ow a we b go we d d itchen is its a e noo k b e, an loring. from budget Courses range classes in er more food than the guests can eat, and it is polite for the for is polite and it eat, can than the guests food more er l ier years wor ff l p e as soon as they are rea eating est may may ll bl y eat three mea ast few years as more travellers combine the twin ast fewmore travellers years as and HCMC. ve-star hotels in Hanoi p your stay. For those who fall in love with the food, For your stay. d ishes are arrange ecial occasion, the host may dro ecial occasion, the host may ll

p g d erience than re-creating the real reci p d p ject in the l. e an meal and they’ll come runnin b ourses g ay or night, an ay pl ow d C in the b iritual guardian of the hearth must have its due and the its due hearthiritual guardian of the must have 11am. In ear 11am. In ETIQUETTE ing. The p d ecialities of Hoi An to gastronomic gallo ecialities of Hoi d ut most now eat at near p ortant o b p on course durin b s, a mortar an g l fast is sim Also, remember not to leave chopsticks standing in a V-shape in your bowl – this is a – this bowl in your V-shape in a standing chopsticks leave to not remember Also, ies, y . The s k l l ) y, aroun y, l ’s classic cuisine at fi ’s guests not to eat everything. eat to not guests death. of symbol Sit at the table with your bowl on a small plate, chopsticks and a soup spoon at the spoon at a soup and chopsticks a small plate, on bowl your table with Sit at the nuoc mam the side for right-hand the top at bowl a small will include place Each ready. the com- use bowls, central the from yourself When serving dipping sauces. or other with the Pick up the bowl it. into chopsticks your dip to as not so spoon munal serving the food. manoeuvre to the chopsticks use mouth and your to it close bring hand, left It and slurp away. the bowl over till it hangs head your lower noodles, eating If you’re o to the host for is polite TABLE Vietnamese genera ooking ooking y rea iners each have a sma iners each have assions of eating and ex mouth-waterin t any time of time of t any ar n is so sacred that it is inhabited by its own deity, Ong Tao Tao Ong inhabited by its own deity, n is so sacred that it is ookin eally taken off eally taken t’s also a great way to introduce your Vietnam to introduce also a great way ex t’s r hey may not want to hear the stories or see the hey may he local s here is no better ex here is no better hemselves. If it’s a s hemselves. If it’s ami ami most im into your rice t t a r p t The to tackle Vietnamese best way cuisine head-on is to sign u c t I t C f f d B a e utensi e God in the centre of the ta menu don’t worry of courses. All dishes are about the succession 492

Envir onment The Landscape As the Vietnamese are quick to point out, their nation resembles a don ganh, the ubiquitous bamboo pole with a basket of rice slung from each end. The baskets represent the main rice-growing regions of the Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south. The country bulges in the north and south and has a very slim waistline – at one point it’s only 50km wide. Mountain ranges defi ne most of Vietnam’s western Many interesting and northern borders. environmental articles are Coast & Islands published in the online edition Vietnam’s extraordinary 3451km-long coastline is one the nation’s big- of Thanh Nien, gest draws and it doesn’t disappoint, with sweeping sandy beaches, where you can towering cliff s, undulating dunes and countless uninhabited off shore keep up with islands. The largest of these islands is Phu Quoc in the , current issues others include Cat Ba and Van Don, the 2000 or so islets of Halong Bay, a (www.thanhnien news.com). spattering of dots off Nha Trang and the fabled Con Dao Islands way out in the . R iver Deltas The Red River and Mekong River Deltas are both pancake-fl at and prone to fl ooding. Silt carried by the Red River and its tributaries, confi ned to

DOING YOUR BIT

» Vietnam has a low level of environmental awareness and responsibility, and many people remain unaware of the implications of littering. Try to raise awareness of these issues by example and dispose of your litter as responsibly as possible. » Vietnam’s fauna populations are under considerable threat from domestic con- sumption of ‘bush meat’ and the illegal international trade in animal products. Though it may be ‘exotic’ to drink snake wine, or eat wild meat such as muntjac, bat, deer, sea horse, shark fin and so on – or to buy products made from endangered plants and animals – doing so will indicate your support or acceptance of such practices and add to the demand for them. » When snorkelling or diving, or simply boating around coral reefs, be careful not to touch live coral or anchor boats on it, as this hinders the coral’s growth. Boat opera- tors should use buoys, or anchor in sandy areas – indicate your willingness to swim to the coral. Be aware that buying coral souvenirs supports the destruction of the very reefs you’ve come to see. » When visiting limestone caves, be aware that touching the formations hinders growth and turns the limestone black. » Do not remove or buy ‘souvenirs’ that have been taken from historical sites and natural areas; it may be illegal and is certainly unethical. » Refill plastic water bottles when possible. ENVIRONMENT WILDLIFE 493 Vietnam. (www.fauna and home to and home to -flora.org). All -flora.org). measure up to up to measure proceeds from from proceeds 1.8m in height. 1.8m which includes which includes the giant sarus the giant sarus conservation in conservation Nature Tourism Tourism Nature most important important most porting primate porting primate Flora and Fauna and Fauna Flora Mekong Delta is Delta Mekong go towards sup- towards go Map of Vietnam, Vietnam, Map of sales of the map of sales crane, which can which can crane, one of Vietnam’s Vietnam’s one of parks in Vietnam Vietnam in parks Tram Chim in the Tram duce an excellent an excellent duce wetland reserves, reserves, wetland of all the national of International pro- International detailed coverage coverage detailed

. - - - - - s e y l d d d is art bl ife, e d ong p l b ldl when robabl d t in l p s to high, canic soi l d. d encounter y accessi out wi . l d ora and fau i s b fl an vo mostly in the p d l ( a d s es resu ’ k ld ife of Vietnam is e foun ow y including in Viet l cro of the river b ( l d

d ve biodiversity hot ve biodiversity l e, re ldl fi rotection an l , the highest of which p areas an The Ha Giang rock plateau of Dong Dong of plateau Ha Giang rock The eve ) l y to d ife in rea l ranges near Nha Trang sight. The western ength of Vietnam ength a l l l osed of granite, and the e

k p ldl ll i country. Intensive surveys Intensive country. l l the itats. Hunting, poaching an d b s – the wi e Vietnam remain unsurveye . k d reaches in the b are com ) s to a growing resource-hungry hu s list of the top ’ er those who are wi k ta has no such ia. The coasta most the fu l nown for its ferti l es are a surrea a. The Truong Son Mountains, which Son Mountains, a. The Truong d k d pine pea

p o l es, has raise mainly in the north ll b si ( itats – from equatoria k y. Most of the wi Most y. ll too. l ive in remote foreste Danang y b y than l ll ( e d as in any tropica as in any ong De s k dl estruction of ha s, run a l i d k hysical features enty to off enty Cam l ains so that d l d p d even a s is we pl d ose to Sa d an l l m of many more species are many y un the k varie l an d ing d l anima d . Numerous areas insi . Numerous d y an, c ing their to high ld s it creates havoc for communities an s it creates havoc l s ittering the hi ittering k p l k e range of ha high y 3000 l ing. The Me d ateaus an an l s -the-beaten track places for better impact on the country and to diversify diversify and to on the country impact better for places track -the-beaten b d ff ers b nown an ation an ity man ity l isappearing rapi k l ld fe oo d ‘the delta) in the dragons’ (the nine channels of the Mekong nine fl y uarters of the country consists of rolling hills ers with Laos an l g ou aths q d and mighty mountains and mighty hland b p ) found a total of 1068 new species from 1997 to 2007, placing this found a total of 1068 new species from 1997 to 2007, ith a wi ) -the-beaten-track destinations require more study, organising and costs but your but your and costs organising study, more require destinations -the-beaten-track or g ution are ta b nimal W

ll ove the surroun In a nation of clone-like tour operators, few stand out. Handspan is one company that company is one Handspan out. stand few operators, tour clone-like of In a nation his tips. for Vu Vinh founder grilled Handspan We trips. highly-innovative its with does, spectacular scenery? most Vietnam’s Where’s Bang National Park. Nha-Ke and Phong Vac, and Meo Van especially mountains, In the northern the crowds? to escape like do you Where Lan, Quan To, as Co such island beaches I love Also great. not are conditions road where Co. Con and Dao Con Luong Ngo Son up Ngoc opened have roads Improved emerging? are Which regions paddies rice countryside, with great area is a Muong tribal which Binh Province, in Hoa plantations tea climate, which has a cool The Moc Chau plateau, people. and innocent is another. Thai culture, and H’mong and must- between balance to Try Vietnam? out of more to get travellers for tips Your o and see VINH VU: FOUNDER, HANDSPAN TRAVEL your experience. Must-see places are already popular so you won’t feel that special. that special. feel won’t you popular so already are places Must-see experience. your Off be quick. so changing too, are places unique and these are experiences ut in rea y the World Wildlife Fund along the Mekong River along the Mekong Wildlife Fund y the World urst their reas is rea on Conservation International nd those at Hai Van Pass Pass Van nd those at Hai strous he nation’s most iconic he nation’s emperate p heir orm the centra spots in the wor south is 3143m Fansi is 3143m man popu po t On paper, Vietnam has p On paper, b ing them is extreme a a or poor A Despite some disastrous bouts of deforestation, Vietnam Despite some disastrous bouts of deforestation, na are as exotic an b nam t Wildli a Three- f a cuu long b Hi t ab giant of the centra its incredible karst formations are Vietnam’s Northern However

l - - e d d v- p l for ega over e. In e. In an l y un l d ll p l swifts y ho s, more i l ong the at such l d l d ene d turt . ations, in p l new crea- e for such . Less than d ) g u rea bl p p atches of for ing three new in a l o l d. ue to excessive and tens ofsh p ation d ows an ard, black bear, previous 283 e an es l their two main their two ortant sto p l d l e the on ll p agers in Laos in

i

d u d n p iscovere (p b l eforestation an ll fi d p cant among these d ld d fi o nches at roadsides

. fi . p d y vi ing . Wi upwar ecies of mamma b d d d severa cant decline as forest cant decline p eing

s at the forefront of the u d l b , croco ife recovery story invo l d anima l l ecies are on a one-way ecies are on a one-way ute ecies: swa is an im p ldl ll p d 54 s ocks of o ture oca s d s l p p uirre resources avai d hant, tiger, leo hant, tiger, 275 species of mamma species 275

d e wi q d rograms may rograms may p d d iscovere ir , Vietnamrevea is p f-sustaining bl eing revise d b ecies are ecies are l a ld b p iste k l y hibians, hundreds of fi hundreds hibians, yway yway an l ing reviously believed to be extinct, was ecies. Continue angere y fl p ying s a se cation. Since Vietnam reo d p p fl d ll . Larger anima ecimate ld in Vietnam, inc d reviously thought to be extinct been have l d ssures, sinkholes, caves and under- caves sinkholes, ssures, ree p ey, ey, ui ot a few assifi b k l ulation of Javan rhinoceroses, the world’s ulation of Javan waterways b ut new s p – one was ca p d b s ogists have ogists have s an of four years. Most signi Most an of four years. . o l ld ll p p c c edition, and other excursions have yielded the edition, and other excursions have angere tive- ngers pointing towards the sky. Phong Nha’s Phong Nha’s the sky. pointing towards ngers arated by heavily used agricultural areas so it’s arated by heavily heasant, orts include ele io e, which was extinct in the wi ff an p mon d l p p p b tiles, 80 am tiles, 80 i d d p d rates, ist is constant t there are more in the extensivet there are more in the a forests l b tivity before it could be released before tivity y are the money an b pecie uarters e-like wild named the saola. Scientists have yet to saola. Scientists have wild ox named the e-like l c ex p ocation in the wor ocation l q p arge mamma as en S l ou . roco -nose ing out entire s 1990, d c d b e scientifi so the site of a remar p estroye d a in the wi l ir l visitors wi d s within a s d l l b iverse. One recent ta recent One iverse. u orts l d elds and along watercourses; fl elds and along ut rare no ff fi b d y y, the government has recognise y, l amese s of inverte ll i addies; and bulbuls and mynas in gardens and mynas addies; and bulbuls and sistence hunting has ear, snu ear, d p an b rate that this rate that y there are enough to anima b l d e S d d ecies of e cia h ffi p ven casua k su itats are et to extinction. Ca ensive e i ozen are thought to remain in the entire country an l Cat Tien is a O Rare and little-known birds birds Rare and little-known E More than any than any More k d b p otte d oaching means that many en oaching means that many locks of habitat are se usiness aroun nown species of nown species p ying over ng t and in was a large antelo was a large Lao border. Edwards’s Edwards’s Lao border. thousan the early 1990s a small a tures that e found on a scientifi b i ha p Endangered wildlife has been in signifi Vietnam’s Tragically, est. Vietnamthe east-Asian is on b k enormous for some, for migratory to theirwaders en route from Siberian breeding grounds Australian winter hoofe an than 800 birds, 180 re birds, 180 than 800 a rapi 60 s some cases wi ex tic even see a sao fl s honey un white-winged wood duck and white-shouldered ibis white-winged wood duck country’s conservationcountry’s e 2010 but died in ca 2010 rarest rhino, was discovered in Cat Tien National Park Park rarest rhino, was discovered in Cat Tien National

Vietnam: A A Vietnam: a collabora- tion between tion between extraordinary extraordinary ground rivers. Northern Vietnam contains some of the world’s most impressive karst karst impressive most the world’s of ), some contains Vietnam Northern rivers. ground 108 (p Bay Long Tu Bai ), 94 (p Halong Bay Long at Tu landscapes with stunning Halong and Bai At mountains, ). 151 (p in the Phong Nha region ) and 143 Ninh Binh (p around that old mountain so eroded has dramatically plateau an enormous limestone Bays, fi vertical bony like the sea out of stick tops the deep into kilometres of tens for stretching scale, on an astonishing are systems cave land mass. limestone KARST YOUR EYES have that rains monsoon millennia of of the result hills, limestone eroded are Karsts fi by pierced outcrops tooth-like shaped towering American and American gered animals gered menu, call the call menu, Vietnam; www Vietnam; 1800 1522 run book for those those book for tion for Nature Nature tion for on a restaurant on a restaurant Vietnamese ex- Vietnamese toll-free hotline toll-free Natural History, Natural by ENV (Educa- ENV by flora and fauna. flora wanting to learn learn to wanting about Vietnam’s about Vietnam’s .envietnam.org). for sale, or listed or listed sale, for perts, is the best is the best perts, If you see endan- see If you

494 ENVIRONMENT WILDLIFE ENVIRONMENT NATIONAL PARKS 495 (2005) (2005) p 126 which includes which includes Birds of South- of Birds carry a copy of of a copy carry age of Vietnam. of age serious interest interest serious Vietnam should should Vietnam in the birdlife of of in the birdlife thorough cover- thorough Twitchers Twitchers with a east Asia by Craig Robson, Robson, Craig by

- - - - y a h ut ots ict g Apr-Nov p 108 Apr-Aug p 101 Nov-Jun p 283 Nov-Jun p 263 Nov-Feb p 147 Sep-Nov, Apr-May Apr-Sep p 152 Apr-Nov p 89 BEST BEST TIME VISITTO PAGE b p y l e ulation d e you in p ectacular d o ng, ng, p fi p ozens of na d ark where the p ulations are re- us p pl o sh and crustaceans ards and sun bears. fi p p ure Siamese crocodiles hiking, hiking, swimming, bird-watching jungle exploration, hiking diving snorkelling, endangered-primate hiking viewing, hiking, cycling, bird-watching, climbing mountain boating, kayaking, kayaking, boating, hiking hiking kayaking, hiking, hiking, boating, bird-watching swimming, sur boat trips, caving, caving, trips, boat ance conservation with l p a b enforcement vary wi d ed out by war are now hot s of Vietnam, p p s is a continuing source of confl k ou can hire a ranger to gui ar p hants, clouded leo

l s, from Hoang Lien in the far north to s, from Hoang more and more of the remaining wilder p k p with introduced Cuban crocodiles. It took ar g p guring out how to

fi l lanted mangrove forests. Areas in which large

p ll but scientists tested the DNA of individual croco but scientists tested the DNA , ks s of infrastructure an l ar and, eating u stilt houses, minority communities houses, stilt hiking rides, elephant Nov-Feb 288 p waterfalls, waterfalls, tigers, primates langurs, trails, caves, jungle, waterfowl deer, boars, hiking, bird-watching birdlife, elephants, primates, Feb-Sep tigers rhinoceroses, p 178 beaches turtles, dugongs, primates, grottoes, jungle, caves centre, bird-watching bird-watching, minority birdlife, mountains, communities caves, karsts caves, lakes, lakes, rainforest, waterfalls, bears, caves, peaks, towering langurs evergreen tropical peaks, karst hidden beaches caves, forest, p P ng.

ositive sign is that some wildlife i l v p i tivity until theytivity found a handful of eared in re . r

has a ranger station. Y p s k h s. k pp

and cross-breedin ar ar g p p area nother (112,102) Bach Ma Bach (37,500) Cat Ba (15,331) Cat Tien (71,457) Con Dao (19,991) Cuc Phuong (22,406) Lien Hoang (28,500) Yok Don Phong Nha- Bang Ke (125,362) Ba Be (9022) Long Tu Bai (15,600) PARK (HECTARES) FEATURES ACTIVITIES NATIONAL PARKS: THE TOP 10 PARKS: NATIONAL ationa The management of nationa A

ss iles in ca ecause Vietnam is sti nimals were thought to have been wi nimals were thought to have re now t very stablishing themselves in reforested areas. Birds, stablishing themselves in reforested areas. Birds, reatures, including tigers, ele ontinues to ex ure reserves. Leve hat were then reintroduced to an isolated lake in the hat were then reintroduced to an isolated lake most Mui Ca Mau on the very Ca Mau southern ti Mui t e b N Vietnam has 31 nationa c c ne e a most s lands and far north remain a home to some of nature’s d t a huntin have rea have of biodiversity and abundance. Theof biodiversity extensive forests of the central hi lot of detective work Their chances of survival rest in the balance, as Vietnam’s Their chances of survival rest in the balance, as Vietnam’s

- - - - - s d d d l ife in ing an uys een d d b . For . For b ways ldl anta l pp k coun e trou pl a ut foo d p p ture an y en y wi ld p noise an ll b ate l d ion anima u ll enforcement p l o ing to ey conservation game, the more p e to esca k k own to 20%. In a own to 20%. In ld orts in 1992, have y bl l oo y, the environment y, d p y the Forest Minis y the Forest l time, an uring the wee uring to b pl d y d s; snares ca p l op- volunteer ers s ense pl that a mi ff y means Vietnam er ex k d d b pl ar ut a 2007 survey . p rojects b e sim oor, oor, ollution and dirty industries, ining on wi p too often a tim . p p d pl ar s now use high-tech ma use high-tech s now ll d l a restaurant; you shou a restaurant; k in straight rows that have little in straight rows that have u eo d ) scene p ves ar ulations (many of them minorityof them (many ulations p s are common or critica d l in 1995 it was o l p p d p o c estimate en e 44% of the nation was foreste e 44% of the nation was out having a goo out having p ia, where environmenta l rocesse k s b ush meat restaurants on the fringes of riorities are job creation and economic riorities are job creation forests of anima ers are a d ecause it sim p ogging activity. h. b a p d l k o b inaction. Quite sim

g ation an l ll b eft an t to ascertain, d d l l c (bush meat) and traditional medicine. For (bush meat) and traditional medicine. For ffi nd many other volunteer projects through through projects volunteer other nd many n y minority y minority is a cia ffi ours, thou cu k b tra san Cam ffi l

b d s main i o ’ ecimate d ective local NGOs, plus many international international plus many NGOs, local ective ar d ff d d p there are ite the government signing u ite the government signing one fronts. Vietnama is dac income. Some income. l ey issue. Whi , recent reforestation n each year in Vietnam

d p d anning of un d r y, whether anima y, k d d oaching an oaching l er foo part the wee of b to the country invo es e y 24% was y 24% anima to a p d l ll

p d d fo ery an d p an ) k b like acacia for furniture like d or s little to no monitoring of to no monitoring s little ’ e a ( ri s have accommo s have d b tatio b k y tra g etter, an etter, nvironment is not yet teetering on the brink but it’s reaching is not yetnvironment teeteringbrink but it’s on the s s, a tri ll s a tri b on severa e ing the l l an ar merit. oaching has l riority riority a rise in the amount of forest cover. However this has this However forest cover. a rise in the amount of l d so much of this reforestation consists of homogenous so much of this reforestation consists of homogenous d p p p d l er from Laos an u ega iscriminate y 1983 on l oca oca oggers an b eve l l ll l d b l . Figures are very ife es. le). Rangers are oftenle). Rangers rely on who by villagers outnumbered vastly ow uce i e d ffi e monitoring organisation Tra l ogica news for the neigh l p d ahea l in ax. A d ldl Some hunting is Many If you can, try If you the more to visit l d ll e through ll ositive turnaroun ro eo a i ittering can can ittering treat eco whi exotic the is a crisis many many Huntin Wi k gere Deforestation is a p inc try, p b tions of trees try and the government bl Defore l Issue Environmental Vietnam’s the needs of the adjoining rural rural adjoining of the needs the p growth. There forests for foo forests its tim tra software to trac to software were i ca on the table, but there’s a far bigger market and (fuelled by domestic on the table, but there’s Chinese traders is 1943, many many The Vietnam Volunteer Network (www.vietnamvolunteernetwork.com) runs orphan- (www.vietnamvolunteernetwork.com) Network Volunteer Vietnam The environmen- to solutions nature-friendly NGO promoting Vietnamese is a PanNature Cuc Phuong The Vietnam productivity.’ Environment Environment Ho Chi Minh, Conservation Conservation portunities; www.nature.org.vn. And you can fi can And you www.nature.org.vn. portunities; www.idealist.org. organisations are active in the country, creating a tremendous number of fascinating fascinating number of a tremendous creating in the country, active are organisations projects. and community on environmental volunteer to opportunities looking for always and are Trang Hanoi and Nha Haiphong, Minh City, in Ho Chi ages to healthcare free provides (www.pvnf.org) Foundation Vietnam Project volunteers. expertise. with medical volunteers and welcomes communities, rural remote o It occasionally issues. development and sustainable tal problems LENDING A HAND e very number of has a growing Vietnam .vacne.org.vn. of Nature and Nature of National Park, National Park, said: ‘Forest is ‘Forest said: ronment; www ronment; for stories and stories for taking time off time off taking serious effects effects serious acts as a bit of as a bit of acts Association for for Association from the war in in the war from it well, it will be it well, struction of the of struction on both life and on both life projects related related projects gold. If we know know If we gold. how to conserve conserve to how a clearing house house a clearing 1963 to dedicate dedicate 1963 to forest will lead to to will lead forest to Vietnam’s envi- Vietnam’s to very precious. De- precious. very

496 ENVIRONMENT ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES ENVIRONMENT ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES 497 bean. coffee is the is the coffee The Vietnam largest largest coffee Council posts posts Council articles about articles of Vietnamese Vietnamese of Vietnam is the Vietnam on its website, website, on its producer. It’s a It’s producer. world’s second second world’s Green Building Green packed robusta robusta packed lands where it’s it’s lands where warming issues issues warming current environ- current the central high- the central known as ‘brown ‘brown as known vital cash crop in crop cash vital www.vgbc.org.vn. cheaper, caffeine- cheaper, gold’. Around Around 97% gold’. mental and global and global mental

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where groundwater has become saline due to overex y’ p ity fue ity oo ( d p l ldl fl d rising ery, corru ery, waste water is treated s. It maintains p that 57 out of 68 restaurants in Da that 57 out of 68 restaurants b l ua y This beauty has proved a blessing for the tourist industry, yet cursed Halong with an cursed yet industry, the tourist for a blessing has proved beauty This just factory, and cement mines Cam Pha coal the gargantuan are alarming more Even mak- bottom, sea and shallow grasses the sea has cloaked silt and dust The resulting ar wi ater d ic dust ong River. l q ri ttem l foo p k b e witnessed the most intensive attem American War Unesco World Heritage site Halong Bay is one of Vietnam’s crown jewels. A dazzling dazzling A jewels. crown Vietnam’s one of is Bay Halong site Heritage World Unesco is beauty its sea, a cobalt from emerging islands karst limestone jagged of collection breathtaking. ac- to In order karsts. the million people cruised 1.5 In 2009, headache. environmental roads build coastal to up mangroves ripped have the authorities everyone, commodate boats cruise spills from and diesel facilities waste toilet Inadequate docks. and new seas. once-pristine contaminate the bay. into leak waste and dust coal of which tonnes from City, Halong of east 20km an through a year ships container of hundreds port in Hon Gai draws deep-water new A Halong. of the heart through shipping channel that cuts international in peril. ecosystem marine and putting the entire survive, to life sea for ing it a struggle PARADISE IN PERIL W A d ith res h eath for rivers aigns against the y countr ll cit l areas n nces serious fl ise 1.35m defences to be breached. If worsen dyke for its icanes will likely inundate low-lying areas. A 2008 conference deter inundate low-lying icanes will likely he country an er treatment hese cities have an average of one an average hese cities have including civet, oun ow- ega schoo Ecocide: The Impact Wa of T a t e r simi Me Vietnam is ran in the face of c r mined that a sea-level rise of onl d a Global Warmin a a t w t l sco Industr Unsur b ment. E l p many nationa many f ( issues. Air Manufacturers have fl have Manufacturers

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ursue com es to the US mi es to the US bl k p es of cancer are we imestone hi d l ost as a p l in roblems. Links between l ici p ontaneous a b ty l on p amma d from the air with from the air l s ensation. Court cases were d d her loughs’ ri loughs’ e p d d p . F rove a k l p ie an l y l com ppl d ing severa riority on norma riority raying aci raying d ‘ p p topsoi farm ion Vietnamese victims of u l d usive d ll s l d y the USA an y the USA over 16% of South Vietnam16% of South over the to destroy oisoning through the internationa ) b p

American grass’). TheAmerican grass’). estimates government ‘ d . other commentators have conc other commentators have d four mi ing an alm. In mountain areas, landslides were deliber mountain areas, alm. In Vietnamese Association of Victims of Agent Or a higher d b p p d s use iseases inc l et to conc rayed 72rayed of defoliants litres million d y om ion to US war veterans,ion to US without a . p ace b ll m of forest an ists an l pl k for transport, were attac y

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manufacturers su that ) d l other s t s natural cover s natural can War d. d 180 mi i is g’ ressure grou $ . p e, loaded with dioxin e, loaded VAVA ishe ignited with na ignited with SA ent ( g ues of chemica i US bl U alm. By the war’s end, extensive areas had been taken over by tough over end, extensivebeen taken areas had war’s alm. By the y create d d l Sc Chemica Enormous bulldozers called bulldozers Enormous Many journa Many p e e Amer aims for ioxin an ai ecause it has y the l h h oor, removing vegetation removing an oor, t fl that 20,000 s that 20,000 ing in Vietnam have nevering in Vietnam receive have b ange b births, birth defects and other human health d p ate ephants, usefu na later Vietnam later recovery still in is the devastation was such mode, caused. forces s American weeds (known locally as weeds (known resi c were However the estimate However esta Vietnamese has been reluctant government to Oran Viet Con t Laos. of bombs – bombs of Cambodia and atomic bomb – atomic This equates to to This equates 265kg for every every for 265kg child in Vietnam, Vietnam, child in of the Hiroshima the Hiroshima of were dropped on dropped were times the energy the energy times Indochina during 13 million tonnes million tonnes 13 man, woman and woman man, equivalent to 450 to equivalent the American War. War. the American

498 ENVIRONMENT ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES Survival Guide

DIRECTORY A–Z . . . 500 TRANSPORT ...... 511 Accommodation ...... 500 GETTING THERE & AWAY . .511 Business Hours ...... 501 Entering Vietnam ...... 511 Children ...... 501 Air ...... 511 Customs Regulations . . . .502 Land ...... 511 Electricity ...... 502 River ...... 513 Embassies & GETTING AROUND ...... 515 Consulates ...... 502 Air ...... 515 Food ...... 503 Bicycle ...... 515 Gay & Lesbian Travellers ...... 503 Boat ...... 515 Insurance ...... 503 Bus ...... 515 Internet Access ...... 503 Car & Motorbike ...... 517 Language Courses ...... 503 Local Transport ...... 518 Legal Matters ...... 504 Tours ...... 519 Maps ...... 504 Train ...... 520 Money ...... 504 Photography ...... 505 HEALTH ...... 523 Post ...... 505 BEFORE YOU GO ...... 523 Public Holidays ...... 505 Insurance ...... 523 Safe Travel ...... 506 Recommended Vaccinations ...... 523 Telephone ...... 506 Medical Checklist ...... 523 Time ...... 507 Websites ...... 523 Toilets ...... 507 Further Reading ...... 523 Tourist Information ...... 507 IN VIETNAM ...... 524 Travellers with Disabilities ...... 507 Availability & Cost of Health Care ...... 524 Visas ...... 508 Infectious Diseases ...... 524 Volunteering ...... 509 Travellers’ Diarrhoea. . . . . 526 Women Travellers ...... 509 Environmental Hazards . . 526 Work ...... 510 Women’s Health ...... 527

LANGUAGE ...... 528 500 the very least you need to provide a photocopy of the passport details, visa and departure card. Guesthouses & Hotels Hotels are called khach san and guesthouses nha khach or nha nghi. Many hotels have a wide variety of rooms (a spread of between US$15 and US$60 is not unusual). Often the cheapest rooms are at the end of sev- eral fl ights of stairs, or lack a window. » Budget hotels Guest- Directory houses (usually family-run) vary enormously depend- ing on the standards of the owner, often the newest A–Z places are in best condition. The good news is that most rooms in this category are Budget ($) Less than very well equipped, with Accommodation US$25 (525,000d) a night US$12–15 often bagging you Midrange ($$) Between in-room wi-fi , air-con, hot In general, accommodation US$25 (525,000d) and water and a TV. Some places in Vietnam off ers superb US$75 (1,575,000d) even throw in a free breakfast value for money and excel- too. Towards the upper end Top End ($$$) Over US$75 lent facilities. In big cities and of this category, minihotels – (1,575,000d) main tourism centres you’ll small, smart private hotels – fi nd everything from hostel usually represent excellent dorm beds to luxe hotels. If These refl ect high-season value for money. Few budget you’re travelling in the coun- prices for rooms with at- places have lifts (elevators) tryside and visiting provincial tached bathroom, unless however. stated otherwise. Discounts towns there’s less choice; » Midrange hotels At the are often available at quiet you’ll usually be deciding lower end of this bracket, times of year. between guesthouses and many of the hotels are similar Passports are almost basic-but-decent hotels. to budget hotels but with big- always requested on arrival Cleanliness standards are ger rooms or balconies. Flash at a hotel. It is not absolutely generally good and there are a bit more cash and the lux- essential to hand over your very few real dumps – even ury factor rises exponentially actual passport, but at in remote rural areas there with contemporary design are some excellent budget places. Communication can be an issue at times (par- ticularly off -the-beaten-path HOTELS FROM HELL where few staff speak Eng- lish), but it’s usually possible There are a lot of hotel scams in Vietnam, mostly, but to get an understanding. not exclusively, happening in the budget sector in Ha- Perhaps because of this, noi. A hotel will get a good reputation and recommenda- service standards in Vietnam tion in a guidebook and before you know it a copycat can be a little haphazard. place with exactly the same name opens down the road. Prices are quoted in dong or US dollars throughout this Dodgy taxi drivers work in tandem with these copycat book based on the preferred hotels, ferrying unsuspecting visitors to the fake place. currency of the particular Check out your room before you check in if you have property. Most rooms fall into any concerns. Some Hanoi hotels also will harass you to a budget price category and book tours with them. That said, most guesthouse and dorm bed prices are given hotel operators are decent and honest folk. For more on individually. The price ranges horror hotels in Hanoi and how to avoid them, see p 61 . used are: DIRECTORY A–Z BUSINESS HOURS 501 rst. rst. mid- in most nd cots nd a highchair. ags and lifeguards, but and lifeguards, ags Breastfeeding in public is Breastfeeding through- The main worry Kids generally enjoy local local enjoy Kids generally high-factor of plenty Pack Babies & Infants available are supplies Baby but dry up in the major cities, quickly in the countryside. fi You’ll range and top-end hotels, but hotels, and top-end range no are There elsewhere. not or cars in rented seats safety restaurants but some taxis, fi can Vietnam, in common quite for facilities few are but there than other changing babies and bathrooms. using toilets young too kids who are For most handle chopsticks, to cutlery. have also restaurants an is keeping Vietnam out things on what strange eye putting in their are infants curios- Their natural mouths. in costly more be a lot can ity dysentery, where a country are and hepatitis typhoid their Keep commonplace. up and slap levels hydration on the sunscreen. pay close attention to any any to attention close pay there as in the sea, playtime along big riptides some are Some the main coastline. warn- have popular beaches ing fl parents beaches at quieter fi the current should test Island Phu Quoc around Seas sheltered. more ) are 381 (p too rarely which is cuisine, fruit is of the range spicy: and spring rolls staggering well. very down usually go home from food Comfort and burgers , (pizzas, in is available cream) ice too. places most go you before sunscreen that widely avail- not as it’s (and costs Vietnam able in Western than in many more countries). ess. ess. . ces are open are ces ffi 6.30am to 9pm to 6.30am on get- gure fi nd independent reviews, as well as recommen- as well as reviews, nd independent ces stand- these er from Travel with Children BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE STAY YOUR BOOK Planet Lonely by reviews accommodation more For . Vietnam out hotels.lonelyplanet.com/ check authors, fi You’ll can you all, of Best stay. to places best dations on the book online. Big cities have plenty to to plenty have Big cities ces, museums and museums ces, Children a good have to get Children mainly be- Vietnam, time in the overwhelming of cause they attention amount of that and the fact attract to wants everybody almost this However, with them. play be sometimes can attention particularly overwhelming, blue-eyed blond-haired, for or Cheek pinching, babes. groin (if rare), still worse dis- are boys, for grabbing keep so tinct possibilities, the full pic- For them close. Plan- out Lonely check ture et’s though kids interested, keep and smaller towns in most set may boredom areas rural There time. time to in from but beaches, great some are be a sure indication of illn indication be a sure seri- very Lunch is taken everything ously and virtually noon between down shuts Government and 1.30pm. longer take to tend workers so breaks, ting nothing done between between done ting nothing Many 11.30am and 2pm. o government but closed Saturday, noon to opening In this book, Sunday. included when only are hours diff they hours. ard offi Post 11.30am and 8am to Banks 8am 4pm weekdays, 1pm to Saturday 11.30am to Offi 5pm 7am or 8am to shops generally Museums or 6pm. on Monday close 5am and pagodas Temples 9pm to restaurants Small shops, late, Open stalls and street a week days seven -style in this -style of ung corners the in nd ecolodges as part er homestays ff Some specialist tour com- tour specialist Some Areas that are well set up set well that are Areas Expect Expect hotels Top-end » everything from faceless faceless from everything colonial hotels, business with his- resonating places and chic boutique tory it live can you where hotels up Wallpaper* and a new Bay, Long Tu Bai in run jungle lodge privately Tien National Park. Cat bracket. Resort hotels are are hotels Resort bracket. along the coastline. dotted such as spots beach Top Trang Nha China Beach, a range and Mui Ne all have Villa- places. sumptuous of accom- your (where hotels pool) modation has a private while popular, becoming are private have even others or include butler service facilities. spa complimentary fi You’ll the north and mountains of fl in the far- Business Hours Vietnamese people rise early sleeping in to and consider Taxes end at the top hotels Most and a serv- 10% a tax of levy displayed 5%, of charge ice as ++ (‘plus plus’) on the bill. (and even midrange Some also place) the odd budget though tax, a 10% levy try to be waived. often this can include the Mekong Delta Delta include the Mekong ), (p 367 the White Thai ) and vil- 119 Mai Chau (p of lages ). 90 Ba Be (p ) and motorbike 519 (p panies ) 520 (p companies touring excellent developed have villages with remote relations and o their trips. of Homestays a popular op- are Homestays but Vietnam, of tion in parts to not highly advisable it’s tribal a random into drop just work and hope things village rules strict are out; there foreigners about registering overnight. who stay touches and a swimming pool swimming and a touches facilities or spa and massage the norm. becoming

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ATTRACTION DETAILSHo Chi Minh water City’s parks Hanoi’s Hanoi’s water puppets Cuc Phuong Primate Rescue Center Halong Bay is an adventure, a boat Sleeping on

HIGHLIGHTS FOR CHILDREN FOR HIGHLIGHTS 127V/220V/50Hz 200 200 cigarettes spirit of 1.5 litres currency, foreign Unlimited

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DIRECTORY A–Z CUSTOMS REGULATIONS 502 DIRECTORY A–Z FOOD 503

ered in ered ff which is widely and the ve-star ve-star Guide, and The Word Remember that the Remember The cost of internet internet of cost The hogs the airwaves all the airwaves hogs erent. For details, see the the see details, For erent. Vietnam News Vietnam Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), (HCMC), Ho Chi Minh City Note Hanoi and elsewhere. that the northern and quite are dialects southern diff sections Courses Language places). might voltage power-supply that at home so from vary should bring a users laptop adapter. AC universal available throughout towns towns throughout available How- Vietnam. in and cities the govern- that beware ever access blocks ment regularly sites, networking social to more For including Facebook. see . p 19 ranges generally access per 10,000d 3000d to from hotels hour in cybercafes; access for charge rarely fi some (except Language Courses There are Vietnamese- language courses o Internet Internet Access Internet and wi-fi The Vietnamese use the met- use Vietnamese The are propagandist English-language English-language propagandist are cally exclude such exclude cally Weights & measures Weights Most guesthouses and hotels have cheap cheap have and hotels Laundry guesthouses Most & magazines Newspapers TV & Radio (and a paradise is a smoker’s Vietnam Smoking

covers the whole country, plus AsiaLife the whole country, covers Saigon Times Saigon include the mags listings Popular dailies. in many loudspeakers and is pumped through day chan- TV several are There (and Hanoi). towns rural stuff. satellite of diet nels and a steady PRACTICALITIES in Ho Chi Minh City. ric system for everything except precious metals and metals precious except everything for ric system system. the Chinese follow they where gems, » » if the is a dryer but check there laundry services, in outlets dry-cleaning also are There is bad. weather town. every » » » every- up spark People nightmare). non-smoker’s smoking against ban an official though there’s where, It’s on public transportation. and in public places on air-conditioned smoke to acceptable socially not usually are long bus journeys those – so transport smoke-free. Some insurance policies policies insurance Some insur- travel Worldwide tion and contacts, including including and contacts, tion on the sections detailed in homosexuality of legality gay local and some Vietnam terminology. Insurance for is a must Insurance major of cost as the Vietnam, is prohibi- treatment medical have may you Although tive. in your insurance medical it is probably country, own in are while you valid not insurance travel A Vietnam. loss theft, cover to policy is the problems and medical bet. best specifi as activities’ ‘dangerous diving riding motorbikes, Check trekking. and even an covers policy that your in the evacuation emergency injury. serious of event at www is available ance .lonelyplanet.com/travel ex- buy, can You _services. – even or claim anytime tend on the road. already if you’re le. le. fi ection 3822 aunt your your aunt % ( cial laws on laws cial ffi (www.utopia-asia

Above US$15 Above ; HCMC ; HCMC has gay travel informa- travel has gay Utopia That said, the government the government That said, shouldn’t travellers Gay .com) Gay & LesbianGay Travellers hassle- is a relatively Vietnam homosexuals. for place free no o are There are considered a basic no-no. a basic considered are same-sex relationships in relationships same-sex nor much in the Vietnam, individual harass- of way Vietnamese the Indeed ment. an authorised authorities photographs of exhibition tour to culture about gay called in 2010 universities life.’ Open mind, ‘Open clamping for is notorious and venues on gay down pro low a very keep most healthy however, are, There ) 74 in Hanoi (p scenes gay ). 335 (p and Ho Chi Minh City far is still Homosexuality in the wider accepted from though the lack community, things keeps laws any of Vietnam- gay Most safe. fairly hide their sexual- to have ese and their families from ity stigma of friends and a lot remains. in problems any expect ho- Checking into Vietnam. is couple sex as a same tels though acceptable perfectly fl to prudent not it’s with hetero- As sexuality. passionate couples, sexual aff of public displays Eating out in Vietnam is gen- Vietnam out in Eating and a inexpensive very erally in travelling highlight of real the full picture the nation; for guidebook this For . 485 p see the following used we’ve indicate to categories price a meal, of cost the typical drinks: excluding US$5 Up to Budget US$15 to US$5 Midrange Top-end Food 5000; 7 P Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Dinh Ba Ha, Lang 7 P 5000; District) 9433; 4 ÐL Le Duan) Le ÐL 9433; 4 Asia ‘sav- Asia s exist. s ff If you wish to obtain a obtain wish to If you Check that any big dollar Check that any take legally cannot You cross- land border Most avail- rates ering the best cial currency exchange, exchange, currency cial ffi ff able in these remote parts of of parts remote able in these the country. Credit Cards Visa, MasterCard and JCB in major accepted are cards cen- tourist and many cities expect don’t however tres, or guesthouses budget plastic. take to noodle bars charges Commission sometimes 3%) are (around merchants Some for. asked but the Amex, accept also 4%. is typically surcharge this is possible advance, cash in branches Vietcombank at as foreign as well cities, most in HCMC and Hanoi. banks a 3% charge generally Banks this service. for commission Cash king dollar remains The US and currencies foreign of and used be exchanged can everywhere. much pretty can Other major currencies at leading be exchanged Vietcombank including banks and HSBC. look too do not take bills you as no-one will accept tatty, Vietnam. them in but you Vietnam dong out of reasonable reconvert can dollars US it into of amounts on departure. of sort some have now ings o o Black Market black market a small There’s hardly but it’s Vietnam in with as it’s bothering worth are rates illegal, technically than better only fractionally (and sometimes the banks of and the chances worse!) rip-o Remember that in that in Remember so is important, ing face’ good- should be bargaining and don’t Smile natured. In some or argue. angry get get will be able to you cases at or more, a 50% discount be only may this times other is the money And once 10%. is done. the deal accepted, cantly cantly fees withdrawal , which has tips and which has tips , The dong has experienced The dong has experienced on the prices Where Consult p 18 for exchange Vietnamese street names names street Vietnamese picking worth also It’s Bargaining is essential bargaining Some transactions. tourist in most ATMs wide- very now are ATMs and are Vietnam in spread in virtually every present You in the country. town problems any have shouldn’t with a regular cash getting debit card, Maestro/Cirrus or MasterCard Visa or with a Watch card. debit or credit ff sti out for 20,000d (typically however and withdrawal 30,000d), to around are – most limits Agribank but 3,000,000d 6,000,000d. up to allows Money The Vietnamese currency is the dong (abbreviated in come Banknotes ‘d’). to 500d, denominations of 5000d, 2000d, 1000d, 50,000d, 20,000d, 10,000d, and 200,000d 100,000d, include Coins 500,000d. US and 5000d. 1000d 500d, widely used, also are dollars areas. in rural so though less and has and downs ups its signifi depreciated around to years in recent dollar. the US to 22,000d in dong, quoted are ground them in dong in this quote we when prices Likewise, book. we in dollars, quoted are suit. follow rates. than US$10 in hardback. Ban Ban hardback. in US$10 than reasonable publishes also Do Ha- HCMC, of maps tourist a few Hue and Danang, noi, cities. other with the words preceded are – on Lo and Dai Duong Pho, in and in the text the maps re- appear they this book, and ÐL. Ð as P, spectively highly in- the of up a copy Xin Chaoformative Map of Hanoi recommendations. cial ffi Lo- ckle beast.

ne and/or a long ne and/or

published by Ban Do, Ban Do, published by the law cials interpret ffi Viet Nam Administrative

Marijuana and, in the Marijuana and,

is perfect for cyclists or mo- cyclists for is perfect roads looking for torcyclists less and costs travelled less Atlas, Maps The Police experience foreigners Few police from much hassle are bribes and demands for police That said, rare. very is an everyday corruption and it has locals for reality in o been acknowledged newspapers. If something If something newspapers. or if some- wrong, go does the police thing is stolen, than do much more can’t report an insurance prepare an – take fee a negotiable for Vietnamese English-speaking translate. to with you northwest, opium are read- opium are northwest, but giving in to ily available There is a risk. temptation police plain-clothes many are ar- and if you’re Vietnam in might be the result rested, fi a large Drugs has made a The drug trade with Vietnam, in comeback making it plentiful supplies the porous along overland has The country Lao border. with problem serious a very and the days these heroin clamping are authorities or sentences Life hard. down liber- are penalty the death ally handed out. term. prison

Civil Law but good, it looks paper On in law the rule of in practice is a fi Vietnam often them, it suits way any Hanoi. of the wishes against is no independent judi- There most surprisingly, Not ciary. out settled are disputes legal court. of Legal Matters o cal in the Hanoi (p 57 ) and HCMC HCMC ) and 57 (p Hanoi in the (p 319 ) chapters.

DIRECTORY A–Z LEGAL MATTERS 504 DIRECTORY A–Z PHOTOGRAPHY 505 ce ce ffi ces all ces ces in Hanoi in ces ocess. ffi . Post offi Post . ects everything everything ects Vietnam has a quite reli- quite has a Vietnam such as couriers Private works restante Poste New Year’s Day (Tet (Tet Day Year’s New Year New Vietnamese Viet- the of Founding » » » ve seconds. ve 1 January Lich) 1 Duong national three-day A (Tet) January or February holiday; Party Communist namese CSVN) (Thanh Lap Dang the – the date 3 February in 1930 founded was party Public Public Holidays Politics aff including many Vietnam, in If a public public holidays. it a weekend, on falls holiday on the Monday. is observed Post and village town, city, Every Vietnam in subdistrict rural o post of sort has some (buu dien) long keep the country over to about 6.30am from hours, and weekends 9pm including Tet). (even public holidays a postcard service, able post will destinations most to For 10,000d. around cost express- important, anything available (EMS), mail service is twice cities, in the larger airmail and as regular as fast registered. is everything reli- are and UPS DHL FedEx, small transporting able for or documents. parcels o in post well a receiving Even and HCMC. abroad from small package while a headache cause can a produce will ones large a lengthy involving migraine, inspection pr rst . be bought lm can fi titles available as you travel around the country. the country. around travel as you available titles PLANET OF THE FAKES Vi- Planet Lonely cut-price of a lot notice probably You’ll etnam churned out copies, pirate are These be deceived. Don’t OK, are the copies Sometimes photocopiers. on local is tell to way The only certain awful. they’re sometimes at the print in this Look a copy. it’s cheap, If it’s price. then out, washed are and the photos it is faded copy…if in fi this book will self-destruct Photographing Photographing anyone, Photo-processing Photo-processing shops reasonably are Cameras on bet- tips of plenty For lm. Slide Slide lm. disappearing, rapidly lm are Sensitive Subjects Sensitive The Vietnamese police usu- what you care ally don’t but on occasion photograph, Avoid pernickety. get they military snapping airports, check- and border bases think of even Don’t points. of a snapshot get trying to sar- Ho Chi Minh in his glass cophagus! hill-tribe people, particularly and the demands patience local for respect utmost with Photograph customs. and manners. discretion ask fi to polite always It’s no, says and if the person If you the photo. take don’t the of a copy send to promise do. you sure make photo, US$2.50 for a roll of 36 print print 36 of roll a for US$2.50 fi but and HCMC, in Hanoi on it elsewhere. count don’t black-and-white of Supplies fi own. bring your so Vietnam all over located are are costs and developing depend- per roll about US$4 selected. size ing on the print very is generally The quality is digital shots Printing good. out at and works cheap fairly and 2000d 1000d between a photo. but the Vietnam in priced All other is limited. selection readily are supplies camera in major towns, available dry up in remote but soon areas. pick photography, travel ter Planet’s Lonely of up a copy Travel Photography . - lm is widely fi Colour Colour print Travellers cheques in cur- cheques Travellers Banks charge 0.5% to 2% to 0.5% charge Banks It is considered proper to to proper It is considered You should consider tip- consider should You les on the big screen, as on the big screen, les Photography pretty are Memory cards is which Vietnam, in cheap the visual given fortunate the ama- even awaiting feast Most photographer. teur burn also can cafes internet to a CD or DVD on to photos It’s space. storage up free bringing the at- worthwhile your viewing tachment for fi equipped come hotels many with televisions. available and prices are are and prices available at about reasonable pretty commission to cheques to to cheques to commission charges Vietcombank cash. exchang- for no commission cheques; travellers Amex ing other for 0.5% a reasonable types. dollars than US other rencies be- useless to be next can the major cities. yond Travellers Cheques Travellers only can cheques Travellers at authorised be exchanged but banks, exchange foreign through- found aren’t these out Vietnam. cant. Upmarket hotels and hotels Upmarket cant. a levy may restaurants some 5% service charge, but this ff the sta it to make not may – guides and ping drivers spend the time they all, after means with you on the road and home from time away travellers Typically, family. will pool on minibus tours a commu- collect to together the be split between nal tip to guide and driver. donation at the a small make es- a pagoda, to a visit end of pecially if a monk has shown pagodas most around; you for boxes contribution have this purpose. Tipping in expected is not Tipping but it is enormously Vietnam, a person For appreciated. per US$100 who earns is signifi tip a US$1 month,

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ng, mortar- ng, ome acr sh and stingrays touch any rockets, rockets, any touch sh tend to travel in travel to tend sh 800-267 6788; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca) 6788; 800-267 http://travel.state.gov) 4747; 888-407 1300 139 281; www.smarttraveller.gov.au) 139 1300 % % % advisories and information on current hot spots: hot on current and information advisories Affairs Foreign Department of Australian www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad) Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs Foreign Department of Canadian ( Zealand New (04-439 8000; www.safetravel.govt.nz) Affairs Consular of Bureau US ( GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE TRAVEL GOVERNMENT o websites government The following ( British Foreign Office Since 1975 more than more 1975 Since Never fi Jelly on crea- advice more For ghting stopped, most of this of most ghting stopped, Undetonated Undetonated Explosives dec- three than more For expended armies four ades, and resources energy untold booby-trapping, mining, fi stra rocketing, wide ing and bombarding When the Vietnam. of areas fi exactly remained ordnance it had landed or been where at estimates American laid; placed war the the end of unexploded of the quantity at 150,000 (UXO) ordnance tonnes. have Vietnamese 40,000 been maimed or killed by While ordnance. this leftover and areas cultivated cities, roads rural well-travelled travel, for safe are and paths areas these from straying in the middle land you could danger. of mortars, artillery shells, war of relics or other mines may c you groups, so as long as you long as you as so groups, the into leap you look before them should avoiding sea, Stone hard. too be not fi scorpion hang out in shallow to tend fl along the ocean water diffi be very and can protect to way One see. to is to nasties these against sea. in the shoes plastic wear . 527 p see that bite, tures sh, sh, sh, sh, fi Vietnam is extensive is extensive Vietnam ff sh, scorpion scorpion sh, fi woe- are rates c accident

National Day (Quoc (Quoc Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday Birthday Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday Buddha’s International Workers’ Workers’ International Liberation Day (Saigon (Saigon Day Liberation Hung Kings Commemo- Kings Hung

» » » » » » 2 September – Khanh) 2 September the Declara- commemorates Ho by Independence tion of Chi Minh in 1945 19 May Ho) (Sinh Nhat Bac the of Eighth day (Phat Dan) June) moon (usually fourth Lao Dong) Te (Quoc Day 1 April – the 30 Giai Phong) sur- 1975 Saigon’s of date is commemorated render nationwide 10th 10th Vuong) (Hung rations – lunar month 3rd the of day April or March Sea Creatures Sea spend your plan to If you snorkelling time swimming, familiarise diving, and scuba haz- various with the yourself dangerous of The list ards. in found that are creatures o seas stone and includes sharks, jellyfi sharks, and includes sea snakes and stingrays. and stingrays. snakes sea is little cause there However, these of alarm as most for or humans, avoid creatures the so them, humans avoid or people injured number of small. killed is very All in all, Vietnam is an ex- Vietnam All in all, travel to country safe tremely a pretty keep police The in. and order tight grip on social reports receive rarely very we armed rob- about muggings, assaults. and sexual beries and scams are there Sure par- cities, in some hassles ticularly in Hanoi and Nha with dealt which we’ve Trang, the of sections in relevant the most But perhaps book. do can important thing you if you’re careful be extra is to wheels on on two travelling – roads anarchic Vietnam’s ffi tra Safe Safe Travel are ful and driving standards appalling. pretty

DIRECTORY A–Z SAFE TRAVEL 506 DIRECTORY A–Z TIME 507 nd c, a c, ces’. ffi erent philosophy philosophy erent ces in Vietnam Vietnam in ces t. Don’t come here here come Don’t t. ffi fi There are privately oper- privately are There Vietnam Tourism and Sai- Tourism Vietnam care- with some That said, The scarcity of public toi- public of scarcity The in Hanoi and Ho Chi ces ces worldwide. These These worldwide. ces ffi ffi ated, fairly helpful, tourist tourist helpful, fairly ated, o Minh City. with Travellers Disabilities the easiest is not Vietnam with travellers for places of the fact despite disabilities, are Vietnamese that many war of as a result disabled problems Tactical injuries. ffi tra include the chaotic have a diff have tourist of the majority from o enter- government-owned agen- travel really are prises primary interests whose cies and turn- booking tours are ing a pro freebies. hoping for old examples are Tourist gon but nowadays this genre, of has at least province every Travel one such organisation. cafes backpacker agents, travellers fellow and your of source much better a are the of than any information ‘tourist so-called o hotels in smaller lifts lack of that are and pavements parked by blocked routinely stalls. and food motorbikes to ful planning it is possible Find Vietnam. a trip to enjoy make to company a reliable and the travel double- to be afraid don’t with hotels check things In yourself. and restaurants ho- many the major cities disabled and lifts, have tels Tourist Information Tourist o roadside toilet stops easier if easier stops toilet roadside usually You a sarong. wearing dong to a few pay to have a access to an attendant public toilet. lets is more of a problem for for problem a of is more lets Viet- men. for than women urinate often men namese might fi Women in public. ash hand- ash ces and ces ffi Toilet paper is usually is usually paper Toilet squat some still are There If your phone If your Roaming » the toilet. down ush paper has roaming, it is easy is easy it has roaming, be out- although can enough, use to expensive, rageously – Vietnam in handset your the use you if particularly internet. Toilets and what toilets of The issue paper toilet do with used to In confusion. some causes a waste- if there’s general, the to next basket paper the toilet that is where toilet, sewage as many goes, paper handle toilet cannot systems no basket If there’s paper. fl in bus and except provided, though it’s stations, train your of a stash keep to wise while on the move. own in public plac- around toilets and out in the countryside. es Time hours is seven Vietnam Mean Greenwich of ahead Time Coordi- Time/Universal Because (GMT/UTC). nated the equa- to proximity its of have not does Vietnam tor, or summer daylight-saving Viet- noon in When it’s time. the previous it is 9pm nam, midnight Vancouver, in day 5am in London, York, in New and 3pm in Sydney. if you’re planning to spend to planning if you’re local A Vietnam. in time any to you will enable number anywhere (SMS) texts send 2500d around for in the world don’t If you per message. fl bring your to want buy can you home, from set for Vietnam phone in a cheap with often as little as US$20, Get included. credit of US$10 someone (or the shop owner up your set to hotel) at your na- or your phone in English, three are There language. tive main mobile phone compa- and Vinaphone (Viettel, nies it out in battling Mobifone) All these market. the local o have companies nationwide. branches 17100, ces. ffi % rm this with in the cantly just of at rate Local calls can usually usually can calls Local Otherwise you can web- can you Otherwise Reverse charges or collect or collect charges Reverse Of course, using services using services Of course, It’s well well It’s Sim cards Viet » worth getting a local SIM card SIM card a local getting worth Vietnam Vietnam has an excellent, net- cellular comprehensive GSM nation uses The work. which is compat- 900/1800, Europe Asia, of ible with most with but not Australia and North America. Mobile (Cellular) (Cellular) Mobile Phones Local Calls in Hanoi, Phone numbers HCMC and Haiphong have around Elsewhere eight digits. phone numbers the country Telephone digits. seven have ac- assigned are codes area the province. to cording or hotel any be made from phone and are restaurant fi Con free. often receive don’t you so the hotel surprises unpleasant any Do- check out. when you calls long-distance mestic and priced reasonably are dial direct. if you cheaper calling by 20% up to Save and 5am. 10pm between past few years. It’s usually usually It’s years. few past a mobile use to cheapest international make phone to be as can rates phone calls; a minute. little as US$0.10 phone in the any from call dial just country, International Calls international for Charges have Vietnam from calls signifi dropped the country code and your your and code the country countries number – most cost a fl Many per minute. US$0.50 operate now hotels budget serv- web-call cheaper even o as do post ices, such as Skype cost next to to next cost such as Skype and budget many nothing; have now hotels midrange up set and webcams Skype their guests. for most, to possible are calls countries Western all, but not Canada, including Australia, New Zealand, Japan, France, and the USA. the UK er ff 90 DAYS 30 21 15 y cloth- y uences the uences In our experience, person- In our experience, six-month visas again in the again visas six-month future. Multiple-entry Visas Cambo- enter to possible It’s and Vietnam from dia or Laos without having then re-enter visa. another apply for to apply for must you However, before a multiple-entry visa Vietnam. leave you Business Visas Business usually are visas Business (180-day 90 days for valid ob- easily once were visas only be to tained but seem in Cambodia) now available single and both and allow wish. as you multiple entries required are permits (Work in legally work to in order a business Getting Vietnam.) cheap become has now visa although more and easy, visa. than a tourist expensive Vietnamese at these Obtain Im- online. or embassies change policies migration o with the wind and could reception you’ll receive from from receive you’ll reception – if you airport immigration ff or scru shorts wear unshaven, or or look dirty ing, problems. expect can you look to best your Try ‘respectable’. 90-day multiple-entry visa. visa. multiple-entry 90-day US$95 around cost These not but are in Cambodia, Vietnamese all from available embassies. infl al appearance er cheap cheap er ff ve working days in days working ve COUNTRY Laos, Indonesia, Singapore, , Thailand, Cambodia Philippines Sweden, , , Russia, Korea, Japan, , VISA ON ARRIVAL VISA apply need to do not countries the following of Citizens air. if arriving by visa Vietnamese a for in advance you before requirements check visa double Always change. regularly as policies travel Certain favoured na- favoured Certain a for valid are visas Tourist to place the best Asia In spend more plan to If you Visas to have nationalities Most pre- of hassle the endure approval (or visa a arranging Viet- enter to in order letter) points exit and Entry nam. HCMC and include Hanoi, its of or any airports Danang shared borders, plentiful land China and with Cambodia, Laos. On Visa (see tionalities an for qualify table) Arrival on arrival. visa automatic out sort has to else Everyone Arranging in advance. a visa has become the paperwork but it straightforward, fairly and un- expensive remains time consuming. necessarily visa a tourist Processing takes typically application or fi four countries. Western (and stay or 90-day 30-day or multiple be single can entry). visa Vietnamese pick up a it costs where is Cambodia, be ar- and can US$45 around Bang- day. the same ranged a popular place, is also kok o agents as many with an air ticket packages in. thrown and visa or Vietnam, than a month in Vietnam exit plan to if you Cam- from again and enter a arrange bodia or Laos,

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% abilities forum on Lonely on Lonely forum abilities Planet’s ly need a sighted companion! ly need a sighted % Society for Accessible Accessible for Society & HospitalityTravel % Royal Association for for Association Royal Disability Rights Mobility International Mobility International USA ( you from all directions. Just all directions. from you in the road across getting is Hanoi and HCMC like cities with those enough for tough de you’ll so vision, 20:20 ellers in Vietnam are pretty pretty are Vietnam in ellers ffi with tra acute, access is improving. Bus improving. is access really not is travel and train travel- disabled for geared vehicle private a but rent lers, and almost with a driver instantly becomes anywhere are long as you As accessible. you about how proud too not or up a boat in and out of get pos- is anything stairs, some are Vietnamese as the sible, help. to willing always .org.uk) tytravel.com) the following organisations: the following Journeys Accessible is a good place to seek the seek to place is a good disabled other of advice travellers. .miusa.org) .lonelyplanet.com/thorntree)

DIRECTORY A–Z VISAS 508 DIRECTORY A–Z VOLUNTEERING 509

lled lives lives lled ned by beauty, slim- beauty, ned by fi Visa Vietnam and Visa East Asian women travel- women Asian East and a career, the sexes mix the sexes and a career, not does and society freely in behave to women expect That manner. a subordinate women Vietnamese said, very their appearance take is and femininity seriously de still and grace. ness if especially Vietnam, ling in may Vietnamese, look they conserv- quite dress to want improved have Things atively. people Vietnamese as more foreign to exposed are occasion- but very visitors locals ill-educated ally some woman Asian think an may with links all over the place the place all over with links include www.volunteer www.idealist abroad.com, and www.globalvolunteer .org network.org. Women Travellers Southeast other most Like Vietnam countries, Asian serious of free is relatively women. Western for hassles consider to issues are There of but thousands course, of alone through travel women and year each the country Most the experience. love enjoy women Vietnamese fulfi free, relatively

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ers one- or two-year one- or two-year ers ff They will need passport details, and will email you and will email you details, need passport will They Visa include Vietnam companies Recommended ice Overseas ice v (www.visatovietnam.org) VIETNAM VISA AGENTS VIETNAM VISA or Hanoi Chi Minh City, air at Ho by arriving If you’re get to and cheapest easiest usually now it’s Danang a visa-service through in advance approved visa your operate not does This system agent. or travel company crossings. at land border day (one later days three to document two an approval bring print and need to which you rush service), for the approval present arrival, On the airport. to with you a stamping then pay picture, passport document and multiple-entry for US$50 single-entry, for (US$25 fee they since this method prefer travellers Many visas). has- bureaucratic Vietnamese with deal to have don’t time, amount of any for up their passport or give sles using an em- than be cheaper out to works and it also West. in the bassy Cent Another avenue is profes- avenue Another vantaged children, which children, vantaged and education free provide training. vocational KOTO for volunteers to help in an to volunteers for on the outskirts orphanage Hanoi. of through sional volunteering home back an organisation that o One Vietnam. in placements is Voluntary the largest of Ser own its operates UN also details program; volunteer at www.unv.org. available are sites volunteer Other general Here, you can donate your your donate can you Here, help to time or money skills, career children street give Voices’ Street opportunities. is KOTO primary project in Hanoi. Restaurant Peace for Volunteers other countries have their have countries other includ- organisations, own ing Australian Volunteers International www.vsa.org.nz) (VSA; (www.vpv.vn) Volunteer Service Abroad www.vso.org.uk) tralianvolunteers.com) organisations if you want to to want if you organisations way: help in some School May 15 HCMC and almost almost 04-3832 04-3832 (www.sciint % (

, which keeps a which keeps , , established by vet- by established , (www.vietnamfriend as little cially cost

Centre ffi has links to options in options to has links lage For information on vol- information For In theory, you should be should you In theory, Multiple-entry visas are are visas Multiple-entry l ship.org) Vietnam, including the SOS including the SOS Vietnam, north of Tri, Viet in Village Friendship and the Hanoi, Vi .org) 8570; www.ngocentre.org 8570; Doi 218 P Thanh, La Hotel .vn; Hanoi) Can, database of all of the NGOs the NGOs all of of database Service Vietnam. assisting Civil International unteer-work opportunities, opportunities, unteer-work non- of up the full list chase organisations government NGO at the (NGOs) Re- source Volunteering opportuni- fewer are There than one volunteering for ties might imagine in a country This is part- Vietnam. such as the sheer number ly due to development professional of here. based workers as US$10, but it is easier to to but it is easier as US$10, this out and sort more pay Get- agency. a travel through can yourself ting the stamp nightmare. be a bureaucratic take can The procedure only can and you days seven 30 or 90 them for extend depending on the visa days hold. that you visa your extend able to capital. provincial in any most it works In practice, in major cities, smoothly Dan- Hanoi, such as HCMC, to which cater ang and Hue, visitors. regular Visa Extensions dollars, the got you’ve If the rubber got they’ve exten- Tourist-visa stamp. sions o easiest to arrange in Hanoi Hanoi in arrange to easiest will but you or HCMC, travel ask a to have certainly the paperwork do to agent charge agents Travel you. for and the pro- about US$45, seven up to takes cedure days. erans from both sides to help to sides both from erans Or Orange. Agent victims of the following try contacting ts such ts fi extras er the same ff Government-run Government-run universi- a budding is also There Finding teaching jobs is is jobs teaching Finding ties in Vietnam hire some some hire Vietnam in ties is gen- Pay teachers. foreign US$10 to US$5 around erally bene but per hour, unlim- housing and as free usually are renewals visa ited in. thrown lan- in private market free and home centres guage most this is where tutoring; seek foreigners arrived newly sec- in the private Pay work. at about slightly better, is tor per hour, US$15 to US$8 schools private but these o won’t as a government-run school. school. as a government-run usually pays tutoring Private US$12 at around better, even per hour. US$25 to in HCMC and easy quite and is sometimes Hanoi, that have in towns possible in the Pay universities. to tends smaller towns and the work be lower fewer. opportunities Check nd work. There’s some casual casual some There’s is employment for Looking Teaching the most far is by English with language popular foreign but students, Vietnamese to want also students some a is also There French. learn teachers demand for limited Ger- Japanese, Chinese, of and Korean. Spanish man, work available in Western- in available work and restaurants bars owned of the country throughout variety the cash-in-hand with- be working you’ll where schools Dive out paperwork. sports and adventure need will always specialists most for but instructors, the main work travellers a teaching are opportunities language. foreign – asking around of a matter advertised. rarely are jobs the eas- stay, you The longer fi ier it is to www out the website job for .livinginvietnam.com opportunities. as pos- esh

For information about about information For Many Many Vietnamese women

Work its has taken Vietnam As all stage, on the global place opportunities work of sorts opened have Westerners for the speaking, Generally up. living Westerners best-paid working those are Vietnam in organisa- international for companies, tions or foreign are jobs these of but many in the arrival before secured country. women’s health, see p 527 . 527 p see health, women’s sible (partly to avoid the avoid to sible (partly that exposing Be aware sun). wear- (by upper arms your will attract top) ing a vest However, attention. of plenty be overly no need to there’s paranoid. dress modestly and expose and expose modestly dress fl as little body accompanying a Western Western a accompanying Vietnamese be a male could prostitute.

DIRECTORY A–Z WORK 510 511 does have one seasonal link to Russia and more connec- tions may emerge. Tickets From Europe or North America it’s usually more expensive to fl y to Vietnam than other Southeast Asian countries. Consider buying a discounted ticket to Bang- kok, Singapore or Hong Kong and picking up a fl ight from there: Air Asia and other low- cost fl y to Vietnam. It’s hard to get reserva- tions for fl ights to and from Vietnam during holidays, es- pecially Tet (see p 451 ), which falls between late January T r a n s p o r t and mid-February. Land Vietnam shares land borders GETTING THERE (%3832 0320); HCMC (%3832 with Cambodia, China and 0320) The state-owned fl ag Laos and there are plenty of & AWAY carrier has fl ights to 28 inter- border crossings open to for- Most travellers enter Viet- national destinations, mainly eigners with each neighbour: nam by plane or bus, but in east Asia, but new routes a big improvement on a dec- there are also train links from were announced to the UK ade ago. The downside is that China and boat connections and Australia in 2011. it is still not possible to get a from Cambodia via the The has a modern Vietnamese visa on arrival at Mekong River. fl eet of Airbuses and Boe- any of these borders. ings, and has a good recent safety record. Border Crossings Entering Vietnam Exact border crossing details Formalities at Vietnam’s Airports are dealt with in individual international airports are There are three established chapters. Border opening generally smoother than at international airports in hours may vary slightly, but land borders, as the volume Vietnam. A fourth major standard times that foreign- of traffi c is greater. That said, international airport, in Phu ers are allowed to cross are crossing overland from Cam- Quoc, should become fully usually 7am to 5pm daily. bodia and China is now rela- operational in 2012. There are now legal money-changing facilities on tively stress free. Crossing Danang (DAD; %1383 0339) the Vietnamese side of these the border between Vietnam Only has a handful of inter- and Laos can be slow. border crossings, which can national flights, but its new deal with US dollars and terminal should result in some other key currencies, Passport additional routes. Your passport must be valid including Chinese renminbi, Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) for six months upon arrival and . (SGN; %3845 6654; www.tsn in Vietnam. Most nationali- Avoid black marketeers, as ties need to arrange a visa in airport.com) Tan Son Nhat they have a well-deserved advance (see p 508). Airport is Vietnam’s busiest reputation for short- Overseas Vietnamese may international air hub. changing and outright theft. be given a harder time by im- Hanoi (HAN; %3827 1513; migration and customs than www.hanoiairportonline.com) Noi Bai Airport serves the non-Vietnamese visitors. Flights, tours, rail capital. Several other airports are tickets and other travel Air classifi ed as ‘international’, services can be booked including those at Hue and online at www Airlines Haiphong, but currently only .lonelyplanet.com (www have domestic fl ights. Nha /travel_services. .vietnamairlines.com.vn) Hanoi Trang’s Airport 1,250,000 C H I N A C H I Qui Air RoutesAir Routes Nha Trang Nhon Tuy 1,250,000 Hoa subject to change.subject to change. 1,850,000 prices for one-way travel.prices for one-way travel. Chu Lai average prices only and are average prices only and are Please note that these are thePlease note that these are the 880,000 880,000 1,000,000 Fares shown are Vietnamese dongFares shown are Vietnamese dong Danang 500,000 727,000 Dalat 850,000 600,000 900,000 Hue 600,000 Pleiku Thuot 900,000 Buon Ma 750,000 650,000 Haiphong Island Con Son Dong Hoi 600,000 HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON) 900,000 1,000,000 650,000 HANOI Vinh Can Tho 1,000,000 1,450,000 700,000 Rach Gia 1,150,000 820,000 Ca Mau 900,000 600,000 1,050,000

Phu T H A I L A N D N A L I A H T C A M B O D I A Island 2,200,000 Phu Quoc Dien Bien L A O S Air Routes Air

GETTING THERE & AWAY

TRANSPORT 512 513 TRANSPORT RIVER ectively a ectively ff which is e Consult the forums on the forums Consult direction cult in the other River cross- border a river There’s Cambodia and ing between the of banks on the Vietnam boats fast Regular Mekong. Phnom between ply the route in Cambodia and Chau Penh Vinh via the Vietnam in Doc bor- Samnor Xuong–Kaam several also are There der. with cabins boats luxury river the to running all the way Paperwork and riders cars of Drivers will need the motorbikes of papers, registration vehicle’s and an insurance liability Permit, Driving International a domestic in addition to important Most licence. is a carnet de passage en douane, Train Several international trains A Vietnam. link China and Hanoi connects daily train with Nanning (and on to scenic The most Beijing!). is between railway of stretch Hanoi and Kunming via Lao not currently are Cai; trains Chinese on the operating no railway are There side. with Vietnam linking lines Cambodia or Laos. also link Hanoi with Nanning Nanning with Hanoi link also in China. Car & Motorbike to possible It is theoretically Vietnam out of in and travel but only or motorbike, car by with shared borders through In real- Laos. Cambodia and makes bureaucracy the ity, It is gen- headache. this a real a take enough to easy erally into motorbike Vietnamese but very Cambodia or Laos, diffi costly). are (and the permits to possible not currently It’s China. into vehicle any take the for www.gt-rider.com biking cross-border latest information. and the vehicle for passport of waiver as a temporary acts import duty. Try to use direct city- direct use to Try on both links Transport the most to links are Here Nam Can–Nong Haet Hun Trang–Sop Tay Worth Worth Keau Y–Pho Bo Phao Cau Treo–Nam The Lao Bao–Dansavanh » » » » » Links Vinh with Plain of Jars Jars with Plain of Vinh Links . 150 p see Laos, of region Phu with Dien Bien Connects . 124 p see northern Laos, considering for trips between between trips for considering Nhon and the An or Quy Hoi . 296 p see Laos, of part Pakse Vinh with Tha Connects on buses by and used Khaek, trip be- overland the rough , Hanoi and tween see p 152 . popular and hassle-free most Ha with Dong links crossing, . 163 p see Savannakhet, Bus into cross to It is possible Cam- bus from by Vietnam The and China. Laos bodia, or from to popular way most the interna- Cambodia are Moc via the tional buses crossing. border Bai–Bavet many Laos, to When it comes the nightmare take travellers and Vientiane bus between cross- Treo Hanoi via the Cau from route or the easier ing, in southern Savannakhet Viet- Hue in central to Laos nam via the Lao Bao border buses Twice-daily crossing. between Vietnam and Laos. Laos. and Vietnam between now are Lao visas Thirty-day all borders. at available bus connections to-city as the countries between a ticket have already you’ll will be hassle and potential – immigra- reduced greatly transport tion and local on common very are scams Lies side. Vietnamese the are times about journey the devi- are Worse common. buses who stop ous drivers and nowhere in the middle of the price. renegotiate be hit can the border of sides the use don’t so and miss, unless borders remote more and time, of plenty have you spare. to patience, popular crossings: Con- arrange arrange cially open cially ffi essary to China time is one hour Cambodian border Travellers at border cross- at border Travellers Youyi Guan–Huu Nghi Youyi Mong Cai–Dongxing Lao Cai–Hekou Xa Xia–Prek Chak Xia–Prek Xa Vinh Xuong–Kaam Sam- Xuong–Kaam Vinh Links Links Moc Bai–Bavet Yadaw Thanh–O Le » » » » » » » Links Hanoi with Links Quan Hong ultimately and Nanning, trains Vietnam–China Kong; . 113 p see this route, use Halong Bay to Hainan Island, Island, Hainan to Halong Bay travellers, by but little used . p 110 Connects northern Vietnam Vietnam northern Connects do not with Kunming; trains run on the Chinese currently side, . p 132 nects the Delta and Phu and the Delta nects with Cambodian coast, Quoc see . p 396 Leisurely river crossing in crossing river nor Leisurely . 401 p see Delta, Mekong HCMC to Phnom Penh, see see Phnom Penh, HCMC to . p 354 Vietnam’s central highlands central Vietnam’s , Cambodia’s to see . p 293 LAOS (and count- seven are There crossings ing) overland a Chinese visa in advance. visa a Chinese ahead. CHINA three currently are There for- where checkpoints border cross to permitted are eigners and China: Vietnam between (the Friend- Huu Nghi Quan Lao Cai and Mong ship Pass), It is nec Cai. CAMBODIA Cambodia and Vietnam with a long frontier share border (and counting) seven Cam- One-month crossings. on issued are bodian visas crossings at all border arrival but overcharging US$20, for at all borders is common except Bavet. o are crossings daily between 8am and 8pm. 8am and 8pm. daily between the most of some are Here popular: ings are occasionally asked asked occasionally are ings a of fee’ ‘immigration an for or two. dollar 200 km 200 120 miles 120

A International Boundary Cambodia Laos China Vietnam LEGEND S E A C H I N A S O U T H (C) (L) (CH) (V) Dongxing (CH) Mong Cai (V)

C H I N 0 0 V I E T N A M HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON) Bo Y (V) Pho Keua (L) Le Thanh (V) O Yadaw (C) Youyi Guan (CH) Bavet (C) Moc Bai (V) Huu Nghi Quan (V) Huu Nghi Quan Loc Ninh (V) Trapeang Plong (C) Xa Mat (V) Trapeang Sre (C) Na Phao (L) Cha Lo (V) HANOI Lao Bao (V) Dansavanh (L) Phnom Den (C) Tinh Bien (V)

River V I E T N A M V I E T N A Na Meo (V) Nam Xoi (L) Cau Treo (V) Nam Phao (L) Mekong Vinh Xuong (V) PENH Kaam Samnor (C) PHNOM Xa Xia (V) Lao Cai (V) Hekou (CH) C A M B O D I A Prek Chak (C) Nam Can (V) Nong Haet (L) Sop Hun (L) T H A I L A N D Tay Trang (V) L A O S Gulf of Thailand VIENTIANE Border Crossings Border

GETTING AROUND

TRANSPORT 514 515 TRANSPORT AIR the of ung corners Whichever class of bus of class Whichever Boat trips are also pos- also are trips Boat Vietnam, of parts In some Nha Trang are popular. are Trang Nha ff Bus Stations Bus bus several have cities Many and responsibilities stations, Bus has an extensive Vietnam that reach buses of network fl the far- country. Most are painfully painfully are Most country. uncom- and seriously slow but services, local fortable increas- are modern buses on the main ingly available routes. in bus travel on, you’re speedy is never Vietnam 50kph on on just – reckon (including Hwy major routes the sheer number 1) due to and trucks motorbikes, of for competing pedestrians the sublime That said, space. the usually makes scenery quickly. pass journey and there are several tour tour several are there and in that specialise companies ). 519 p (see trips bicycle Boat has an enormous Vietnam at that are rivers number of but navigable, partly least far by important the most and its River is the Mekong trips day Scenic tributaries. on riv- possible are boat by Hue, Danang, An, in Hoi ers HCMC, and even Coc Tam Delta but only in the Mekong as a practical used boats are transport. of means Cruising sible on the sea. Halong Bay the islands of to all visitors for is a must In central Vietnam. northern miss shouldn’t you Vietnam Islands (ac- Cham the lovely in while An), Hoi from cessed the islands to trips the south, o the Mekong particularly frequent are there Delta, stand Don’t crossings. ferry on vehicles parked between and roll can as they the ferry wind up as the could you in the sandwich. meat . at or only ne for coastal routes routes coastal ne for Long-distance cycling is cycling Long-distance guidebooks have been been have guidebooks and the like. xed Tours cyclists foreign of Groups a are Vietnam touring days, sight these common Rentals agen- travel and some Hotels to US$1 for bicycles rent cies quality better per day, US$3 or more. US$8 models cost to way is the perfect Cycling Hoi like smaller cities explore (unless Trang Hue or Nha An, There season!). the rainy it’s bicycle innumerable are the side along stands repair punctures get to the roads of fi Bike Types Bike be bought can bikes Decent in shops speciality at a few but it’s Hanoi and HCMC, if own bring your to better long dis- on cycling plan you are Mountain bikes tances. potholes as large preferable, rough are roads or unsealed but a touring on the rims, is fi bike Basic Delta. or the Mekong equipment and safety cycling are parts authentic spare bring so in short supply, also bell A home. all this from – the or horn is mandatory louder the better. by locals who don’t see many many see who don’t locals by pedalling around. foreigners Much Vietnam. popular in is fl the country of ma- and the hilly, moderately shape. in good are jor roads is a consid- however, Safety, can Bicycles concern. erable the around be transported buses of on the top country compart- baggage or in train puff run out of if you ments cials. The guidebook’s maps maps guidebook’s The cials. ffi

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fi con a sensi- and this is country, as a separate show Planet’s Lonely of a copy carrying are If you issue. tive China copy be safe, to just and, recognisable it less make might need while in China. you crucial details any down Travellers entering China by road or rail from Vietnam Vietnam from rail or road by China entering Travellers China Planet Lonely that report CHINA GUIDEBOOKS CONFISCATED GUIDEBOOKS CHINA in southern Vietnam and Vietnam in southern Hanoi. Jetstar .com.vn) Connects HCMC with Con with Con HCMC Connects Delta. and the Mekong Dao Airlines Vietnam airline has very affordable affordable airline has very far though serves fares, destinations. fewer Vasco Bicycle get to way a great are Bikes particularly Vietnam, around o get when you highways. In the countryside, In the countryside, highways. are on bicycles Westerners enthusiastically greeted often (www.jetstar.com) now has good domestic airport to a regional from con- an international make – travel day nection the same can. if you early a day Mekong Air GETTING AROUND aff and very Airlines book early). (if you on interna- bookings accept or debit cards. tional credit that cancella- note However It’s unknown. not tions are on a fl rely to not safest temples of Angkor at Siem Angkor of temples in Cambodia. Reap leading local carrier with the carrier local leading net- comprehensive most reliability. and best work namairlines.com.vn) , are also an also are , and pick up as ff Mai Linh Express major bus at any the ff Conductors tend to rou- to tend Conductors is that luggage Be aware A reasonable. are Prices These buses and mini- buses These The downside to the open to The downside pre-allocated seats on short on short seats pre-allocated routes, and medium-distance such as tour concept is that opera- concept tour depend on kickbacks tors and res- hotels sister from many passengers as possible as possible passengers many the fre- so along the route, a slow for make quent stops journey. foreigners tinely overcharge so services local on these popular with not they’re travellers. stops at toilet pilfered easily is looking af- someone unless honest how No matter it. ter might passengers fellow your drinks accept never seem, is a as there them, from be drugged may you chance and robbed. along the route. city Ho Chi from ticket through Hanoi costs to Minh City depending on the US$45, prices Sample route. exact Tour in the Open given are table. Prices In backpacker haunts you’ll Vietnam, throughout signs advertising of lots see Tick- ‘Open Date Tour’, ‘Open These are Ticket’. ‘Open or et’ mostly catering bus services travellers, budget foreign to of numbers but increasing using the are Vietnamese convenient due to services The points. departure central run be- buses air-conditioned and HCMC and Hanoi tween hop on and can passengers hop o Open Tours Open (www.mailinh.vn) LocalBuses – some buses Short-distance and American French, are the models from Russian – depart ’70s ’60s and ’50s, with when full (jam-packed They people and luggage). the throughout operate often on many count but don’t day, about 4pm. after leaving o drop buses excellent way to get about. get to way excellent er- ff ipside, ipside, er comfortable comfortable er ff at beds for really really at beds for Deluxe buses are non- are buses Deluxe o companies Private Some Some o rge. Inrge. remote areas ing smart minibuses with ing smart minibuses reclining seats, others have have others seats, reclining fl padded sleeper These long trips. alterna- be a good can buses are and costs trains, to tive comparable. the fl On smoking. equipped are them of most with and some TVs with machines. karaoke dreaded kung the crazy ignore can You eyes, your closing by fu videos to be deaf need to but you’d the karaoke sleep through and eye plugs – ear sessions recommended. are patches These buses make a beeline make buses These This is place. to place from can and you class the deluxe there of usually be certain being enough space. cial ffi . Here are some guidelines to help you help you to guidelines some are Here . ff ces with o with ces ffi While this is all very frustrating, in many ways it’s a it’s ways in many frustrating, While this is all very Mostly metered and very cheap, but very occa- but very cheap, and very metered Mostly Taxis and fixed not definitely are Fares oms & cyclos Xe Fixed, although naturally there are differ- are there although naturally Fixed, fares Rail More complicated. If you buy a ticket from from buy a ticket If you complicated. More Bus fares Dependent on when you book and what book on when you Dependent Airfares prices, fixed have and hydrofoils Ferries fares Boat

ve times the local rate. A similar fare structure existed existed structure similar fare A rate. the local times ve can demand ridiculous can When arriving by bus, it bus, When arriving by Bus stations can look can Bus stations » » » » » » navigate the maze. navigate For most visitors one of the most frustrating aspects aspects frustrating most the one of visitors most For are they that is the perception Vietnam in travelling of o being ripped FARE’S FAIR? legacy of the early days of , when all Vietnam, in tourism of days the early of legacy foreigners and charged government-owned were hotels fi too. recently until quite travel rail for sionally some taxis have dodgy meters that run fast. dodgy meters taxis have sionally some Hard. bargain. to need you ent prices for different classes. different for ent prices the point of departure (ie the bus station), then the (ie the bus station), departure the point of should you However, reasonable. and very is fixed price the chance a good there’s the way, a bus along board will overcha or conductor driver dates you want to travel. No price difference between between difference No price travel. to want you dates and foreigners. Vietnamese a for- being of the privilege for more pay to but expect Delta the Mekong around boats eigner on smaller local the Cham Islands. like places and to drivers may ask for four, or even 10, times what the times 10, or even four, for ask may drivers by and displayed fixed are bus prices Local pay. locals the door. Deluxe Buses Deluxe popular routes, most On modern air-conditioned buses and Chinese Korean highly popular. becoming are prices. is generally better to try to try to to better is generally taxi on to a metered arrange of or guesthouse hotel your as xe oms and cyc- choice, los prices and departure times times and departure prices displayed. clearly chaotic but many now have have now but many chaotic o ticket are divided according to to according divided are the destina- of the location it is north or tion (whether and the the city) of south or long (local service of type or non- express distance, express).

GETTING AROUND

TRANSPORT 516 517 TRANSPORT CAR & MOTORBIKE nitely need nitely fi eur and guide c conditions, but conditions, c Hanoi and HCMC have have Hanoi and HCMC per day: costs Approximate tackle the mountains To from from bikes and road Trail US$4 US$4 Moped (semi-auto) US$8 Moped (fully auto) US$15 Minsk from model car Standard US$115 to 4WD US$80 » » » » » » US$20 to US$6 to US$10 to US$40 to US$60 to US$40 Insurance in a tour- travelling If you’re then with a driver, vehicle ist to guaranteed it is almost cars with drivers are popular are drivers with cars a vehi- Renting and plentiful. cle with a driver-cum-guide for even option is a realistic providing travellers, budget enough people to are there the cost. share wide selec- an especially that agencies travel tion of with drivers vehicles rent the For trips. sightseeing for northwestern of roads rough de you’ll Vietnam a 4WD. Motorbike be rented can Motorbikes virtually anywhere, from hotels including cafes, Some agencies. and travel your keep will ask to places the return until you passport sort sign some to Try bike. stating clearly agreement of how renting, are what you of the extent much it costs, on. so and compensation get to it is best the north, of powerful a slightly more a Minsk or trail model like plenty also are There bike. act willing to drivers local of as a chauff US$12 to US$7 around for per day. per costs The approximate day: Car & Minibus have cars rental Self-drive in their debut make to yet is a blessing which Vietnam, ffi tra given tion of the vehicle, the reli- the vehicle, the of tion agency, rental the of ability budget. and your exibility exibility t – try fi US$12 US$9 US$9 US$12 US$9 US$16 US$20 PRICE ll up from a proper petrol petrol a proper ll up from Even the most isolated isolated the most Even fi it is easy means ectively ff enough for expatriates to ar- to expatriates enough for complicat- pretty but range, When it comes visitors. ed for a it’s motorbikes, renting to required. no licence of case Hire are The major considerations condi- the mechanical safety, Fuel sharply in rose prices Fuel to 2011 during Vietnam of per litre 21,000d around gasoline. unleaded have usually communities by petrol selling someone sellers Some the roadside. mix this fuel with kerosene pro a quick make to to station. for locals before starting starting before locals for a bench- As negotiations. is ride 100km typical a mark, and US$3. US$2 between Car & Motorbike wheels of set own your Having maximum fl you gives Licence Driving Viet- in a car drive to order In Vietnamese need a you nam, and an International licence is- usually Permit, Driving automobile your sued by This home. back association e to visit remote regions and regions visit remote to you when and where stop in- always hire Car please. hire Motorbike a driver. cludes be can and this value is good or with a driver. self-drive ce, ce, exibil- ffi ap open- (www.the started the started Ho Chi Minh City–Mui Ne Chi Minh City–Mui Ho Trang Chi Minh City–Nha Ho An Nha Trang–Hoi Hoi An–Hue Hoi An–Nha Trang Hue–Hanoi Ho Chi Minh City–Dalat Ho ROUTE OPEN TOUR PRICES TOUR OPEN On rural runs foreigners runs foreigners rural On If you are set on open-tour set are If you ess, che ess, Neverthel Buying shorter point-to- shorter Buying sinhtourist.com) Reservations & Costs required aren’t Reservations the frequent, of most for between popular services but it and cities, towns the purchase hurt to doesn’t Always before. the day ticket the o from buy a ticket as bus drivers are notorious notorious are as bus drivers overcharging. for any- charged typically are times 10 to twice from where have If you rate. the going the bus it out with battle to deter- to it is helpful driver, the ticket of mine the cost tour tickets are a temptation a temptation are tickets tour for go people and many shorter of couple A them. HCMC– try are to routes Ne and HCMC–Mui Dalat serv- not places two Beach, train. by iced them at budg- look for tickets, and Hanoi. in HCMC cafes et The Sinh Tourist point tickets on the open- on point tickets bit more a costs buses tour fl more achieve but you to the chance including ity, a motorbike rent a train, take plans. your or simply change taurants along the way, mak- way, the along taurants feel whole experience ing the the herd. of being part like the buses plus side, the On places, central from depart to journey an extra avoiding the bus station. concept and has a good repu- and has a good concept lots now are but there tation, companies. other of Hanoi

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911 138 793 942 1117 Dalat ne 716 310 830 1653 1488 1868 nd Hoi An Halong City Hanoi HCMC Hue Sapa A rainsuit or poncho is es- rainsuit A fre- Although the police cient emergency-rescue emergency-rescue cient ffi ROAD DISTANCES (KM) system, so if something hap- if something so system, be it could road, pens on the ar- help time before some even to and a long way rives medical of basic the most might help in Locals facilities. but circumstances, extreme it will be up to cases in most you get guide to or your you or clinic. hospital the to Precautions serious motorcyclists, For sunburn is a major risk and The preventing. worth well you prevents breeze cooling you badly how realising from late. too burning until it’s are during the especially sential, season. monsoon Road Rules Basically, there aren’t many; matters Size any. arguably wins vehicle and the biggest Be particularly default. by on the about children careful fi to common It’s road. in the hopscotch kids playing a major highway. middle of is also on the road Livestock on a hit a cow a menace; be both and you’ll motorbike hamburger. and fi drivers quently stop Emergencies an have not does Vietnam e bad – such roads are best best are roads – such bad or vehicle with a 4WD tackled Mountain roads motorbike. dangerous: particularly are and rocks falling landslides, add can vehicles runaway your to edge an unwelcome journey. nitely not not nitely fi ooding can can ooding er much pro- ff It is compulsory to to It is compulsory when a helmet wear in riding a motorbike when even Vietnam, a passen- as travelling investing Consider ger. imported in a decent plan- are if you helmet on rides ning extensive or wind- highways busy ing mountain roads, eggshells as the local o don’t quality Better tection. available are helmets from in major cities US$25. HELMET LAW HELMET In general, the major high- In general, Do not even consider rent- consider even not Do be a problem. A big big typhoon A be a problem. the size potholes create can In some bomb craters. of are roads areas, remote and transform surfaced not of a sea into themselves turns mud when the weather ways are hard surfaced and surfaced hard are ways maintained, well reasonably fl but seasonal one of Vietnam’s strong strong Vietnam’s one of road The intercity points. high- two-lane of network more is becoming ways High- dangerous. and more are collisions head-on speed, sight on familiar a sickeningly main roads. Hazards is de safety Road Road Conditions & ing a motorbike if you are are if you ing a motorbike be travelling daft enough to without insur- Vietnam in treating of The cost ance. be bank- can injuries serious travellers. budget for rupting be insured. When it comes When it comes be insured. rental many motorbikes, to and insured not are bikes a con- sign to will have you a valuation to agreeing tract if it is stolen. the bike for a strong have you sure Make it in leave lock and always where parking guarded available.

GETTING AROUND

TRANSPORT 518 519 TRANSPORT TOURS 3844 er ff % (

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p 231 p 125 p Most travel agencies and tour operators can hook can operators and tour agencies travel Most The driver usually pays for his own costs including costs his own for usually pays driver The the travel from a copy and get on an itinerary Settle restau- tourist-trap avoid to want you it clear Make experience. had a good Tip if you’ve Try to meet your driver-guide before starting out and starting before driver-guide your meet to Try does language) or other (French much English How nd you before you fi you before nd you

all kinds of cultural knowledge and open up the door and open up the door knowledge cultural all kinds of ruin your guide can bad A unique experiences. some to the following: Consider trip. HIRING A VEHICLE DRIVER & the you guide gives and with a driver car a Renting the country Seeing tour. a tailor-made design to chance that except independent travel, like is almost this way allows and time-consuming less comfortable, more it’s along the way. or everywhere, anywhere, stops for be guide can good A and driver. up with a vehicle you o and can companion and travelling translator your » the petrol. for pay you and meals, accommodation Check this is the case. » as he guide is making it up find your If you agency. it as leverage. use along, goes » and shops. rants » » with. travel can you this is someone that sure make » he or she speak? Recommended Recommended tour These are some of the of some are These p 151 Phong Nha p Sapa p 97 97 p Halong Bay 158 DMZ p 176 Hue p 354 p Delta Mekong 248 Mui Ne p 211 p My Son Nha Trang » » » » » » » » » operators include: operators Buffalo Tours Tours bottom-end of The quality being peddled tours budget in HCMC and Hanoi is often what get to tend You terrible. for. pay you destina- popular tour most Vietnam: tions in street corners, markets, markets, corners, street They and bus stations. hotels will fi them… 0702; www.buffalotours.com; www.buffalotours.com; 0702; Hanoi) Ma May, 94 P .

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is a bicycle rick- is a bicycle drivers hanging around hanging around drivers Travellers have reported reported have Travellers Fares are comparable comparable are Fares One nationwide company company nationwide One Groups Groups of Some approximate fares: approximate Some 40,000d hour Per Short ride 10,000d 2km or night ride Over Mai Linh Mai » » » being mugged by cyclo by being mugged as a general so, in HCMC ers cyclos hire to safe it’s rule, When only during the day. at night, late a bar leaving taxi. a metered take 20,000d Xe Om The xe om (zay Xe taxi. motorbike and om motorbike, the get you so hold), hug (or by around Getting picture. as long as you xe om is easy, luggage. of a lot have don’t a cyclo, for with those before- the price negotiate xe of plenty are There hand. om Taxi Western-style taxis with major in most found meters, by cheap very are cities, and standards international around travel to way a safe tariff Average at night. 15,000d to about 10,000d there However, per kilometre. dodgy taxis roam- many are Hanoi and of ing the streets clocked with meters HCMC, times or three run at two to travel Only the normal pace. or recom- with reputable mended companies. reputation with an excellent is always hang out near major major hang out near always and and markets, hotels broken at least speak many the sure make To English. where understands driver to useful it’s go, to want you Bargaining map. bring a city on a fare Settle is imperative. or anywhere going before ff sti get to likely you’re shaw. This cheap, environ- This cheap, shaw. of friendly mode mentally dying steadily is transport Viet- in found but is still out, main cities. nam’s Cyclo The cyclo er ff and Livit- the are ed as SE ered by Victoria Ho- Victoria by ered ff (www.livitrans.com)

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ning fi 3562 2733; 3562 2733; the trail ff The leading The leading % Well-struc- (

rst-timers. rst-timers. Long-established Long-established c-free back roads. A little A roads. back c-free 8337 6766; www.sinhbalo 6766; 8337 Foreign guides charge charge guides Foreign % motorbike tour operator of- operator tour motorbike along tours excellent fering the north on and in the far or modi- 650 Urals vintage US$150–200 fied Minsks; per day. tured trips to Halong Bay, Bay, Halong to trips tured northern and parks, national as 4WD as well mountains, trips. road Adventures Sinhbalo www.sisterstoursvietnam.com; www.sisterstoursvietnam.com; 37 Hanoi) Ð Thai Thinh, Specialised Specialised motorbike tours grow- are Vietnam through a are They ing in popularity. o get to way great Motorbike Tours and explore the mountain- the and explore north and the of ous regions can – two-wheels centre that four- the parts reach by can’t, wheels sometimes and small trails traversing ffi tra but many helps, experience of- also companies leading fi tuition for fer on take to Mounting a bike north is the of the peaks de Vietnam’s one of ( considerably more than local than local more considerably of on a group Based guides. expect can you people, four per US$100 from pay to an all- for per day person that provides tour inclusive petrol, rental, motorbike and accommoda- food guide, com- the best of Some tion. include running trips panies the following: Indochina Explore Hang Bac, Hanoi) Bac, Hang be and should not moments missed. owned high-end company high-end company owned of with an eclectic range photog- from themed tours, family. to raphy .com; 283/20 Ð Pham Ngu Lao, Pham Ngu Lao, Ð 283/20 .com; HCMC) 1, District 093 159; www.exploreindo 159; 093 china.com) cycling specialist with tours with tours specialist cycling central Delta, the Mekong to the northern highlands and mountains. Tours Sisters

GETTING AROUND

TRANSPORT 520 521 TRANSPORT TRAIN trains were were trains SOFT SOFT SLEEPER A/C (LOWER, 4 BERTH) chugs along only chugs HARD HARD SLEEPER (UPPER,A/C 6 BERTH) a 300km create to with rails ff cation in 1975, the government the government in 1975, cation Reunification Express Reunification 508,000d 570,000d 785,000d 1,030,000d 853,000d 1,340,000d 1,175,000d 833,000d 1,590,000d 915,000d 1,510,000d 1,690,000d SOFT SEAT A/C REUNIFICATION EXPRESS REUNIFICATION In the late 1950s the South, with US funding, recon- funding, with US 1950s the South, In the late of 1000km had repaired Vietnam 1960 North By fi reuni Following Today the a to system the rail of overhaul a massive Plans for During WWII the Japanese made extensive use of of use extensive made Japanese WWII the During Minh again Viet the War, Minh the Franco-Viet During orts were made to repair the Transindochinois, major Transindochinois, the repair to made were orts ff Hue Danang Nha Trang HCMC DESTIN- ATION FROM FARES HANOI network of tracks (between Ninh Hoa and Danang) in and Danang) Ninh Hoa (between tracks of network quickly – the French under their control wholly an area sabotage. with their own responded a distance and Hue, Saigon between the track structed Viet 795 and 1964 alone, 1961 between But 1041km. of system, the rail launched on were attacks (VC) Cong track of sections large of the abandonment forcing spur). (including the Dalat the US During Hanoi and China. between mostly track, was network the northern rail the North, against air war bomb craters of clusters now, Even bombed. repeatedly and train bridge rail virtually every around be seen can in the north. station the Hanoi– about re-establishing set immediately Vietnamese of link as a symbol rail Ho Chi Minh City Express the time the Reunification By unity. 27 bridges, 1334 1976, on 31 December inaugurated had (switches) shunts 1370 and 158 stations tunnels, been repaired. at an did in the 1930s, than the trains slightly faster 50km/h. speed of average been shelved. now have high-speed network THE THE railway, Hanoi–Saigon the 1726km-long of Construction completed was and in 1899 began Transindochinois, the Saigon Hanoi to the trip from 1930s, In the late in 1936. speed of at an average minutes and 20 40 hours took 43km/h. on the Minh sabotage Viet in resulting system, the rail WWII, After the air. from bombing and US ground e become or had either damaged which were of parts overgrown. night At system. the rail against in sabotage engaged Minh made o Viet the cient to to cient lls the void. pull out as trains The train journey between between journey The train Many travel agencies, agencies, travel Many of stations. Always keep your your keep Always stations. of and lock or tie it nearby bag Safety prob- be a crime can Petty trains. Vietnamese lem on try to occasionally Thieves ff stu grab Hanoi and HCMC takes from from Hanoi and HCMC takes depending on 41 hours, 30 to local also are There the train. short that only cover trains crawl can but these routes, along at 15km/h. Routes the main HCMC– from Aside rail-spur three Hanoi run, link Hanoi with the other lines Vietnam. northern of parts the port city to runs east One heads second A Haiphong. of and Lang Son to northeast the border across continues third A China. Nanning, to Lao Cai to runs northwest China. Kunming, and on to hotels and cafes sell train train sell and cafes hotels a small commis- for tickets con- save can and this sion, trouble. time and siderable res- make to idea a good It’s travel onward for ervations in a city. arrive as you as soon Reservations seats train The supply of insuffi is frequently Reservations demand. meet should be made all trips for in advance. one day at least wise it’s sleeping berths, For before days several book to departure. of the date Freight and motorbikes Bicycles car- in freight travel must not it’s Sometimes riages. on the travel to possible bike. as your train same Eating the supplied by The food included company, railway some on price ticket in the Michelin- isn’t long journeys, but it fi starred, board also vendors Food to idea a good It’s trains. favourite up on your stock a taking before munchies long trip. The train schedule is ‘bare ‘bare is schedule train The bones’ during the Tet festival festival Tet the during bones’ sus- are trains when most begin- nine days, for pended Tet before days ning four days four for and continuing afterwards. frequently so check depar- check so frequently Vietnam the on times ture (if working), website Railway travel or with at stations, Another excellent agents. is www.seat61 resource the international .com, website. train Reunification Ex- Reunification trains depart from from depart trains Schedules Several press Hanoi and HCMC every day. day. every Hanoi and HCMC change schedules The train to something, especially especially something, to at night.

TRAIN

TRANSPORT 522 523

Medical Checklist Recommended, but not ex- haustive items for a personal medical kit: » antibacterial cream, eg mupirocin » antihistamines for aller- gies, eg cetirizine for daytime and promethazine for night » antiseptic for cuts and scrapes, eg iodine solution such as Betadine » DEET-based insect repellent » diarrhoea ‘stopper’, eg loperamide » fi rst-aid items, such as scissors, plasters (such as Aids), bandages, gauze, safety pins and tweezers H e a l t h » paracetamol for pain » steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg 1% Health issues (and the qual- hydrocortisone ity of medical facilities) vary Insurance enormously depending on » sunscreen and hat where you are in Vietnam. Even if you are fi t and » antifungal treatments The major cities are generally healthy, don’t travel without for thrush and tinea, eg not high risk and have good health insurance – accidents clotrimazole or fl uconazole facilities, though rural areas do happen. If your health are another matter. insurance doesn’t cover you Travellers tend to worry for medical expenses abroad, Websites about contracting infectious get extra insurance – diseases in Vietnam, but check our website (www There’s a wealth of travel- serious illnesses are rare. .lonelyplanet.com) for more health advice on the internet. Accidental injury (especially information. Emergency World Health Organiza- traffi c accidents) account evacuation is expensive – tion (WHO; www.who.int/ith) for most life-threatening bills of US$100,000 are not Publishes a superb book problems. That said, a bout unknown – so make sure called International Travel of sickness is a relatively your policy covers this. & Health, which is revised common thing. The following annually and is available free advice is a general guide only. online. Recommended MD Travel Health (www .mdtravelhealth.com) Provides BEFORE YOU GO Vaccinations complete travel health » Pack any medications in The only vaccination required recommendations. clearly labelled containers. by international regulations Centers for Disease » Bring a letter from your is yellow fever. Proof of vacci- Control and Prevention doctor describing your nation will only be required if (CDC; www.cdc.gov) Good medical conditions and you have visited a country in general information. medications. the yellow-fever zone within » If carrying syringes or nee- the six days prior to entering dles, have a physician’s letter Vietnam. Further Reading documenting their medical Most vaccines don’t Lonely Planet’s Asia & India: necessity. produce immunity until at Healthy Travel Guide – is » least two weeks after they’re If you have a heart condi- packed with useful informa- tion, bring a copy of a recent given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before de- tion including pre-trip plan- ECG. ning, emergency fi rst aid, parture. See the Required & » Bring extra supplies of any immunisation and disease Recommended Vaccinations regular medication (in case information, and what to do if box for more information. of loss or theft). you get sick on the road. c Buying medication over over medication Buying Hepatitis A the throughout problem A and water- this food- region, The HN-51 rears its head head its The HN-51 rears Vietnam. time in time to from usually in clusters, It occurs workers. poultry amongst extreme- it has been Recently were humans (two ly rare during Vietnam in infected do When outbreaks 2010). and poultry are eggs occur, the menu in from banished and restaurants. hotels many Dengue This mosquito-borne disease increasingly is becoming in Southeast problematic thou- hundred Several Asia. hospitalised people are sand with dengue haemorrhagic year, every Vietnam in fever is less rate but the fatality there As per cent. than 0.3 it available, is no vaccine by only be prevented can bites. mosquito avoiding that carries The mosquito the throughout dengue bites insect- use so and night, day at all measures avoidance include a Symptoms times. headache a severe high fever, was (dengue and body aches ‘breakbone as known once people develop Some fever’). diar- and experience a rash is no specifi There rhoea. and para- rest just treatment, aspirin take – do not cetamol the likelihood as it increases a See haemorrhaging. of and be diagnosed to doctor monitored. an option. If you think you think you you If an option. disease, a serious have may not do malaria, especially the to time – travel waste to facility quality nearest attention. receive recom- is not the counter medications as fake mended, or out- and poorly stored common. are drugs of-date on all dates Check expiry medicines. Infectious Diseases Bird Flu rst – single booster rec- – single booster – two doses of MMR of doses – two If your problem is minor (eg is minor (eg problem If your this is diarrhoea) travellers’ PrivateClinics fi your should be These familiar are They call. port of and can resources with local neces- if evacuations organise fa- medical The best sary. HCMC and – in Hanoi, cilities facility health – have Danang to close that come standards countries. in developed those State Hospitals and overcrowded are Most foreign- treat to In order basic. a obtain needs to a facility ers, only far and so special license been provided. have a few Self-Treatment – three injections in all. injections in all. – three cant improvement improvement cant

– three injections in all. A booster after one after booster A injections in all. – three Rabies TB skin test a should have – adults Tuberculosis Meningitis – single injection. Japanese B Encephalitis Japanese – if you haven’t had chickenpox, discuss discuss had chickenpox, haven’t – if you Varicella Measles, mumps and rubella mumps Measles, than trip is less your unless – recommended Typhoid – provides almost 100% protection for for protection 100% almost A – provides Hepatitis most for routine considered B – now Hepatitis Adult diphtheria and tetanus Adult

» » » » » » » » » » Long-term Travellers Long-term people travel- for recommended are vaccinations These at special risk: or those than one month, more ling for The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends the recommends (WHO) Organization Health World The Asia: Southeast to travellers for vaccinations following REQUIRED & RECOMMENDED RECOMMENDED & REQUIRED VACCINATIONS year will provide 10 years of protection. of years 10 will provide year than the vaccination. rather travel, and after before A booster is recommended after two years. A sore sore A years. two after is recommended booster A side effects common the most are arm and headache reported. are required unless you have had the diseases. Many Many had the diseases. have you unless required are a booster. require adults young doctor. with your this vaccination a week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers offers The vaccine cities. developed and only to a week years. or three two for and lasts protection 70% around up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at 12 months provides after a booster a year; up to protection. years’ 20 another least rapid A six months. over shots as three Given travellers. vaccination as is a combined available, is also schedule 95% of in occurs protection Lifetime A. with Hepatitis people. ommended if you’ve had none in the previous 10 years. 10 none in the previous had ommended if you’ve y to , Singapore or Singapore Bangkok, y to

Hong Kong. Care The signifi has economy Vietnam’s in major with it some brought in public health. advances lo- parts, in remote However basic will only have clinics cal become – if you supplies Vietnam, ill in rural seriously or Ha- Danang HCMC, to get For can. noi as quickly as you extensive or other surgery to hesitate don’t treatment, fl Cost of Health Availability & IN VIETNAM IN

AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE

HEALTH 524 HEALTH INFECTIOUS DISEASES 525 ects ects ff t of of t fi ects are are ects ff ects include include ects ed, some not. not. some ed, ff oquine) fl c treatment. c no take to is nal option fi ed. If an animal bites you, you, If an animal bites ed. Side e Malarone A Lariam (Me ective in Vietnam. in ective » » » ff are rare but include depres- rare are and psychosis anxiety, sion, 90% around It’s seizures. e a tendency to sunburn, sunburn, to a tendency indigestion thrush in women, with the and interference be It must pill. contraceptive after weeks four for taken the risk area. leaving Receives a lot of bad press, fi it justi of some many suits tablet This weekly side e Serious people. most and mild, uncommon and head- nausea commonly for tablet best It is the aches. on those and for divers scuba high-risk areas. to short trips to but medication preventive emergency a supply of have is (Malarone medication four usually recommended: three daily for once tablets the develop should you days) This is malaria. of symptoms still and you’ll than ideal, less medical a good to get need to of hours within 24 facility a fever. developing has the added bene the added has a variety prevent to helping including diseases, tropical of dis- tick-borne leptospirosis, and melioidosis. typhus ease, side e Potential Measles a problem remains Measles including the Ha- Vietnam, in people born Many noi area. as immune 1966 are before in child- had the disease they with a starts Measles hood. but can rash and high fever pneumo- by be complicated There disease. nia and brain is no specifi Rabies disease fatal This uniformly or lick the bite by is spread animal – most an infected of a dog or monkey. commonly immedi- advice medical Seek and animal bite any after ately exposure post- commence a pre-travel Having treatment. the post- means vaccination sim- is greatly treatment bite plifi ects. Travellers Travellers ects. ff this of ectiveness ff Malaria is caused by a by Malaria is caused should strategies Two & Paludrine Chloroquine A broad- Doxycycline Spray your room with room your Spray DEET-containing a Use coils. mosquito Use and long sleeves Wear Choose Choose accommodation with clothing Impregnate Sleep under a mosquito be applied must but ective » » » » » » » » » ff frequently. to isolated areas in high-risk in high-risk areas isolated to Mau and such as Ca regions and the Bac Lieu provinces, carry to like may south, rural medica- of dose a treatment if symptoms use tion for that ma- Remember occur. you Before be fatal. laria can advice medical seek travel, and on the right medication you. for dosage the by transmitted parasite mosquito. an infected of bite important symp- The most but malaria is fever, of tom such as symptoms general cough diarrhoea, headache, occur. also or chills may only be made can Diagnosis taking a blood sample. by prevent to be combined avoid- malaria – mosquito and antimalarial ance, medications. The e limited is now combination not Generally Vietnam. in recommended. that spectrum antibiotic insect repellent before going going before repellent insect meal. evening your out for on all repellent insect the particularly skin, exposed repellents Natural ankle area. be can such as citronella e in light colours. trousers with screens and fans (if not (if not and fans with screens air-conditioned). in high-risk areas. permethrin net. MALARIA MEDICATION MALARIA medica- various are There tions available. MALARIA PREVENTION areas, however, the risk of of the risk however, areas, far disease the contracting any of the risk outweighs e side tablet c on the gures fi cial line is that uids, including uids, ffi er permanent brain cial ffi Malaria and poten- such a serious For there disease, tially deadly is an enormous amount of concerning misinformation expert get must You malaria. your whether as to advice at you trip actually puts Vietnam, of parts Many risk. and resort city particularly no minimal to have areas, rural most For malaria. risk of This viral disease is transmit- disease This viral very It’s mosquitoes. by ted travellers by caught rarely is recom- but vaccination spending those mended for areas. in rural time extended and is no treatment, There people infected of a third third will die while another will suff damage. B Japanese Encephalitis The o HIV HIV/ with people number of vague, are Vietnam in AIDS on the rise. are but they Health-education messages vis- are HIV/AIDS to relating the countryside, ible all over but the o infection is largely limited to to limited is largely infection and drug users. workers sex widely avail- are Condoms Vietnam. able throughout Hepatitis B sexually only serious The can that disease transmitted vaccina- by be prevented B is spread hepatitis tion, body fl by In some contact. sexual up Asia Southeast of parts the population are of 20% to and B, hepatitis of carriers this. of unaware usually are consequences The long-term and cancer include liver can cirrhosis. borne virus infects the liver, liver, the infects virus borne (yellow jaundice causing and nausea eyes), skin and specifi is no There lethargy. treatment for hepatitis A, you you A, hepatitis for treatment time for allow need to just travellers All heal. to the liver vacci- should be Vietnam to A. hepatitis against nated c to to c sh and sh ess. Seek ess. rst arrive. Swelling of of Swelling arrive. rst ets. Peel all fruit and try Peel ets. Symp- exhaustion Heat is a serious Heatstroke » » toms include feeling weak, weak, include feeling toms nausea irritability, headache, skin and sweaty or vomiting, Cooling pulse. weak a fast, getting involves treatment sun and/or the heat out of with power- a room and into or air-conditioning ful fan with water and rehydrating a of a quarter containing per litre. salt of teaspoon Symp- emergency. medical on suddenly and come toms nausea, ess, include weakn 41°C, over of a temperature and confusion dizziness, and loss collapse eventually of consciousn Food is the in restaurants Eating con- for risk factor biggest diarrhoea. travellers’ tracting it include eat- avoid to Ways food, ing only freshly-cooked shellfi and avoiding buff vegetables. cooked to stick to with restaurants in busy Eat customers. of a high turnover Heat are Vietnam of parts Many and humid throughout hot when it easy Take the year. fi you is com- and ankles the feet cramps muscle as are mon, sweat- excessive by caused avoid- by these Prevent ing. and exces- ing dehydration Drink in the heat. activity sive and eat solution rehydration food. salty fatigue and intermittent diar- intermittent and fatigue often are burps ‘Eggy’ rhoea. giardiasis, to solely attributed fi speci not are but they Environmental Hazards Air Pollution particularly pollution, Air is severe pollution, vehicle If major cities. Vietnam’s in respiratory severe have you doc- your consult problems travelling. before tor this infection. The treatment The treatment this infection. is tinidazole. choice of ea whereas whereas ea it within two er from Treatment consists of of consists Treatment ‘stop- a is just Loperamide ecting travellers – between – between ecting travellers Giardiasis Giardia lamblia is a parasite in common that is relatively include Symptoms travellers. gas, excess bloating, nausea, Amoebic Dysentery Amoebic is very Amoebic dysentery Symptoms in travellers. rare diar- bacterial to similar are bloody diar- fever, (eg rhoea feeling and generally rhoea always should You unwell). if care medical reliable seek diar- in your blood have you involves Treatment rhoea. or met- tinidazole drugs: two kill the parasite to ronidazole gut and then a sec- in your kill the cysts. ond drug to 30% and 50% of people 30% and 50% of will suff their trip. starting of weeks travel- cases, 80% of In over by is caused diarrhoea lers’ and therefore a bacteria, treat- to promptly responds It can ment with antibiotics. a change by be provoked also stomach and your diet, of a after again down settle may days. few or you hydrated, staying rehydration take could solutions. the to get and doesn’t per’ It is the problem. of cause on go to have if you helpful but don’t a long bus ride, a have if you loperamide take stools. in your or blood fever Typhus by is spread typhus Murine fl a of the bite via a is spread typhus scrub rare are diseases These mite. in- Symptoms in travellers. and pains muscle clude fever, these avoid can You a rash. general following by diseases measures. insect-avoidance help will also Doxycycline them. prevent Travellers’ Diarrhoea far is by diarrhoea Travellers’ problem common the most aff ve, night loss, edness. with contact cant must you so ective ff and tir ective in preventing in preventing ective ff Typhoid infec- bacterial This serious and via food tion is spread slowly a high, It gives water. and head- fever progressive is recom- Vaccination ache. all travellers mended for than a week spending more out- or travelling Vietnam, in Be the major cities. side of is not that vaccination aware e 100% still be careful with what you with what you be careful still and drink. eat the local population should the local Vaccina- precautions. take to tion is usually only given fi of under the age children that but it is recommended and pre- have adults at-risk The TB testing. post-travel fever, are main symptoms weight cough, sweats Tuberculosis (TB) is very Tuberculosis travellers. in short-term rare and aid workers, Medical who travellers and long-term signifi have STDs widely avail- Condoms, Vietnam, able throughout e are the spread of most sexu- most of the spread diseases. ally transmitted guard not may they However or her- warts genital against encoun- a sexual If after pes. rash, any develop you ter or pain discharge lumps, im- seek urine, when passing attention. medical mediate Schistosomiasis Schistosomiasis (also called parasite tiny is a bilharzia) skin after your that enters in swimming been you’ve If you water. contaminated be can you concerned, are after months three tested are Symptoms exposure. Schis- and fever. coughing treated is easily tosomiasis with medications. gently wash the wound with the wound wash gently and apply and water, soap antiseptic. an iodine-based you vaccinated not are If you rabies receive to will need as as soon immunoglobulin possible.

TRAVELLERS’ DIARRHOEA

HEALTH 526 527 HEALTH WOMEN’S HEALTH ective antimalarial ective ff Pregnant women should women Pregnant Ensure Ensure Insurance Travel the Malaria None of Diarrhoea Travellers’ Avoid remote remote Avoid Areas Rural Even on a cloudy day on a cloudy day Even sun- a strong use Always swimming. after Reapply a hat. Wear the sun between Avoid » » » » » » » » » you’re covered for pregnancy - pregnancy for covered you’re including possibilities, related labour. premature e more treatments diarrhoea Many during recommended not are is Azithromycin pregnancy. safe. considered areas with poor transporta- areas facilities. tion and medical in safe completely are drugs pregnancy. sunburn can occur rapidly: occur can sunburn 30). factor (at least screen and 2pm. 10am Women’s Health products sanitary of Supplies in urban available readily are options control Birth areas. bring so be limited, may stocks. adequate advice specialised receive The ideal travelling. before is in the second travel time to and 16 (between trimester which the during 28 weeks), pregnancy-related risk of lowest. is at its problems advice: Some become infected easily in hu- easily infected become to fail and may mid the humidity. of because heal any of care meticulous Take wash immediately wounds: and apply water in clean antiseptic. Sunburn n- ected ected Minor ected. ected. rmly and the fi , ff Common in Common rashes Fungal Cuts & scratches Contracted during Contracted Ticks » » » humid climates. Moist areas areas Moist humid climates. such as the air, less that get and between armpits groin, aff often are the toes, that patch as a red It starts is usually and spreads slowly involves Treatment itchy. cream using an antifungal Consult such as clotrimazole. a doctor. can and scratches cuts walks in rural areas. If you If you areas. in rural walks and ex- had a tick bite have such as symptoms perience the bite of (at the site a rash or mus- fever or elsewhere), a should see you cle aches prevents Doxycycline doctor. diseases. tick-borne event of a snakebite involves involves a snakebite of event via immobilisation pressure fi bandage an elastic the aff around wrapped site at the bite starting limb, the up towards and working should The bandage chest. tight that the circu- be so not lation is cut o Skin Problems Skin gers or toes should be kept should be kept or toes gers be can circulation the so free the limb Immobilise checked. the with a splint and carry attention. medical victim to or tourniquets use not Do out. suck the venom try to only in is available Antivenom major cities. ee. ff sh around around sh In Vietnamese Vietnamese sh In protection. er some ff Be very careful of what you drink. Tap water is heavily is heavily water Tap drink. you what of careful Be very it. avoid still should but you areas, in urban chlorinated Ice everywhere. which is available water, bottled Stick to and is often resorts, and cities in the safe is generally and co drinks added to DRINKING WATER DRINKING Poisonous and Poisonous Snakes Found in humid Found Leeches Jellyfi These don’t carry don’t These Bedbugs is a common is a common heat Prickly ected area. Take painkill- Take area. ected » » » » » harmless snakes are com- are snakes harmless though Vietnam, mon in ever are travellers few very Wear them. by bothered poking and avoid boots and wood logs dead around aid in the First when hiking. forest areas. They do not do not They areas. forest but disease any transmit be intensely can their bites Apply an iodine-based itchy. to leech bite any to antiseptic infection. help prevent disease but their bites are are bites but their disease and hotel, Move itchy. very with an anti- the itch treat Silk sleeping bag histamine. o liners skin rash in the tropics. Treat Treat in the tropics. skin rash the heat out of moving by an air-conditioned and into by and hours a few for area showers. cool having Bites & Stings medical help and commence help and commence medical cooling following by cooling above). (see treatment waters most are not danger- not are most waters Pour irritating. just ous, the onto urine) (or vinegar aff advice medical and seek ers, Take way. ill in any feel if you are if there advice local ous danger jellyfi and keep out of the water. out of and keep WANT MORE? For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Vietnamese Phrasebook and Hill Tribes Phrasebook. You’ll fi nd it at shop. lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

L a n g u a g e

Vietnamese, or tiếng Việt dee·úhng vee·ụht, is You’ll notice that some vowels are pro- the offi cial language of Vietnam and spoken nounced with a high or low pitch while others by about 85 million people worldwide, both swoop or glide in an almost musical manner. in Vietnam and among migrant communities This is because Vietnamese uses a system around the world. It belongs to the Mon-Khmer of tones. There are six tones in Vietnamese, language family and has Muong (a hill-tribe indicated in the written language (and in our language) as its closest relative. pronunciation guides) by accent marks above More than two thirds of Vietnamese words or below the vowel: mid (ma), low falling (mà), are derived from Chinese sources – this low rising (mả), high broken (mã), high rising vocabulary is termed Hán Việt haán vee·ụht (má) and low broken (mạ). Note that the mid (Sino-Vietnamese) and is the result of centu- tone is fl at. In the south, the low rising and the ries of Chinese rule. Some French vocabulary high broken tones are both pronounced as the also entered the after low rising tone. Vietnamese words are con- the French added the country to Indochina by sidered to have one syllable, so word stress is taking control of Saigon in 1859. not an issue. Until the early 20th century Vietnamese was The variation in vocabulary between the written in adapted Chinese characters, but in Vietnamese of the north and that of the south 1910 the Latin-based quốc ngữ gwáwk ngũhr is indicated in this chapter by (N) and (S) script was declared the offi cial written form. It’s respectively. a 29-letter phonetic alphabet, invented in the At the end of this chapter, we have also 17th century by Alexandre de Rhodes, a French included some phrases in a few of the many Jesuit missionary. regional languages spoken in Vietnam, par- Vietnamese pronunciation is not as hard ticularly in the central highlands and in the far as it may seem at fi rst as most Vietnamese north of the country. sounds also exist in English. With a bit of prac- tice and reading our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you shouldn’t BASICS have much trouble being understood. Note Hello. Xin chào. sin jòw that the vowel a is pronounced as in ‘at’, aa as Goodbye. Tạm biệt. daạm bee·ụht in ‘father’, aw as in ‘law’, er as in ‘her’, oh as in ‘doh!’, ow as in ‘cow’, u as in ‘book’, uh as in Yes. Vâng. (N) vuhng ‘but’ and uhr as in ‘fur’ (without the ‘r’). Vowel Dạ. (S) yạ sounds can also be combined in various ways No. Không. kawm within a word – we’ve used dots (eg dee·úhng) to separate the diff erent vowel sounds to keep Please. Làm ơn. laàm ern pronunciation straightforward. As for the con- Thank you Cảm ơn ğaảm ern sonants, note that the ng sound, which is also (very much). (rất nhiều). (zúht nyee·oò) found in English (eg in ‘sing’) can also appear at the start of a word in Vietnamese. Also note You’re welcome. Không có chi. kawm ğó jee that d is pronounced as in ‘stop’, đ as in ‘dog’ Excuse me./ Xin lỗi. sin lõy and ğ as in ‘skill’. Sorry. How are you? Có khỏe không? ğáw kwả kawm KEY PATTERNS 529 Fine, thank you. And you? To get by in Vietnamese, mix and match Khỏe, cám ơn. kwả ğaảm ern these simple patterns with words of LANGUAGE Còn bạn thì sao? kwả ğòn baạn teè sow your choice: What’s your name? Tên là gì? den laà zeè When’s (the next bus)? My name is ... Khi nào là (chuyến kee nòw laà (jwee·úhn Tên tôi là ... den doy laà ... xe buýt tới)? sa bweét der·eé) Do you speak English? Where’s (the station)? ACCOMMODATION Bạn có nói được baạn ğó nóy đuhr·ẹrk (Nhà ga) ở đâu? (nyaà gaa) ẻr đoh tiếng Anh không? díng aang kawm Where can I (buy a ticket)? I (don’t) understand. Tôi có thể (mua doy ğó tẻ (moo·uh Tôi (không) hiểu. doy (kawm) heẻ·oo vé) ở đâu? vá) ẻr đoh I'm looking for (a hotel). Tôi tìm (khách sạn). doy dìm (kaát saạn)

ACCOMMODATION Do you have (a map)? Where is a Đâu có ... đoh ğó ... Bạn có (bản đồ) baạn ğó (baản đàw) (cheap) ...? (rẻ tiền)? (zả đee·ùhn) không? kawm campsite nơi cắm ner·ee ğúhm Is there (a toilet)? trại chại Có (vệ sinh) không? ğó (vẹ sing) kawm hotel khách sạn kaák saạn I’d like (the menu). guesthouse nhà khách nyaà kaák Xin cho tôi (thực sin jo doy (tụhrk đơn). đern) I’d like (a) ... Tôi doy I’d like to (hire a car). muốn ... moo·úhn ... Tôi muốn (xe doy moo·úhn (sa hơi). her·ee) single room phòng đơn fòm dern Could you please (help me)? double room phòng fòm Làm ơn (giúp đỡ)? laàm ern (zúp đẽr) (big bed) giường đôi zuhr·èrng đoy twin room phòng gồm fòm gàwm I have (a visa). hai giường hai zuhr·èrng Tôi có (visa). doy ğó (vee·saa) ngủ ngoỏ room with a phòng có fòm ğó DIRECTIONS bathroom phòng tắm fòm dúhm Where is ...? to share a ở chung ẻr jum ... ở đâu ? ... ẻr đoh dorm phòng nội trú fòm nọy choó What is the address? Ðiạ chỉ là gì? đee·ụh cheẻ laà zeè How much is it per night/person? Could you write it down, please? Giá bao nhiêu một zaá bow nyee·oo mạwt Xin viết ra giùm tôi. sin vee·úht zaa zùm doy đêm/ngừơi? đem/nguhr·eè Can you show me (on the map)? May I see it? Xin chỉ giùm sin jeẻ zùm Tôi có thể xem doy ğó tẻ sam (trên bản dồ này). (chen baản dàw này) phòng được không? fòm đuhr·ẹrk kawm Go straight ahead. Thẳng tới trước. tủhng der·eé chuhr·érk air-con máy lạnh máy laạng at the corner ở góc đường ẻr góp đuhr·èrng bathroom phòng tắm fòm dúhm at the traffic tại đèn giao dại đèn zow fan quạt máy gwaạt máy lights thông tawm hot water nước nóng nuhr·érk nóm behind đằng sau đùhng sow mosquito net màng maàng in front of đằng trước đùng chuhr·érk sheet ra trãi zaa chaĩ far xa saa giường zuhr·èrng near (to) gần gùhn toilet nhà vệ sinh nyaà vẹ sing opposite đối diện đóy zee·ụhn toilet paper giấy vệ sinh záy vẹ sing Turn left. Sang trái. saang chaí towel khăn tắm kúhn dúhm Turn right. Sang phải. saang faỉ

530 EATING & DRINKING I’d like a Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn Signs table for … đặt bàn cho … đụht baàn jo … Lối Vào Entrance

LANGUAGE (two) people (hai) (hai) Lối Ra Exit người nguhr·eè Mở Open (eight) vào lúc vòw lúp Đóng Closed o’clock (tám) giờ (dúhm) zèr Hướng Dẫn Information Cấm Prohibited Do you have a menu in English? EATING & DRINKING Bạn có thực đơn bằng baạn káw tụhrk đern Cảnh Sát/Công An Police tiếng Anh không? bùhng díng aang kawm Nhà Vệ Sinh Toilets What’s the speciality here? Đàn Ông Men Ở đây có món gì đặc ẻr đay kó món zeè dụhk Phụ Nữ Women biệt? bee·ụht I’d like ... Xin cho tôi ... sin jo doy ... spicy cay ğay Not too spicy, please. spoon cái thìa ğaí tee·ùh Xin đừng cho cay quá. sin đùrng jo ğay gwaá with với ver·eé I’m a vegetarian. without không có kawm ğó Tôi ăn chay. doy uhn jay I’m allergic to (peanuts). Tôi bị dị ứng doy beẹ zeẹ úhrng Meat & Fish với (hạt lạc). ver·eé (haạt laạk) beef thịt bò tịt bò Can you please bring me ...? Xin mang cho tôi...? sin maang jo doy ... chicken thịt gà tịt gaà Can I have a (beer), please? crab cua ğoo·uh Xin cho tôi (chai bia)? sin jo doy (jai bee·uh) eel lươn luhr·ern Cheers! fish cá kaá Chúc sức khoẻ! júp súhrk kwả frog ếch ék Thank you, that was delicious. goat thịt dê tịt ze Cám ơn, ngon lắm. ğaám ern ngon lúhm thịt lòng tịt lòm The bill, please. Xin tính tiền. sin díng dee·ùhn pork thịt lợn/ tịt lẹrn/ heo (N/S) hay·o prawns/ tôm dawm Key Words shrimp snail ốc áwp bottle chai jai squid mực mụhrk bowl bát/ baát/ chén NS jén breakfast ăn sáng uhn saáng Fruit & Vegetables chopsticks đôi đũa đoy·ee đoõ·uh apple táo/bơm (N/S) dów/berm cold lạnh laạng banana chuối joo·eé dessert món tráng món chaáng cabbage bắp cải búhp ğaỉ dinner ăn tối uhn dóy carrot cà rốt ğaà záwt fork cái dĩa/ ğaí deẽ·uh/ nĩa (N/S) neẽ·uh coconut dừa zuhr·ùh glass cốc/ly (N/S) káwp/lee corn ngô/bắp (N/S) ngow/búp hot (warm) nóng nóm cucumber dưa leo zuhr·uh lay·o knife con dao ğon zow eggplant cà tím ğaà dím lunch ăn trưa uhn chuhr·uh grapes nho nyo plate đĩa đeẽ·uh green beans đậu xanh đọh saang restaurant nhà hàng nyaà haàng green pepper ớt xanh ért saang snack ăn nhẹ uhn nyạ lemon chanh chaang lettuce rau diếp zoh zee·úhp 531 lychee vải vaỉ Drinks mandarin quýt gweét beer bia bi·a mango xoài swaì coffee cà phê ğaà fe LANGUAGE mushrooms nấm núhm fruit shake sinh tố sing dáw orange cam ğaam hot black cà phê đen ğaà fe đen papaya đu đủ đoo đỏo coffee nóng nóm peas đậu bi đọh bee hot black tea trà nóng chaà nóm pineapple dứa zuhr·úh hot milk trà sữa chaà sũhr·uh EMERGENCIES black tea nóng nóm potato khoai tây kwai day hot milk nâu nóng (N) noh nóm pumpkin bí ngô beé ngaw coffee cà phê sữa ğaà fe sũhr·uh strawberry dâu zoh nóng (S) nóm sweet potato khoai lang kwai laang iced black cà phê đá ğaà fe đaá tomato cà chua ğaà joo·uh coffee watermelon dưa hấu zuhr·uh hóh iced lemon chanh đá jaang đaá juice iced milk nâu đá (N) noh đaá coffee cà phê ğaà fe Other sữa đá (S) sũhr·uh đ aá chilli sauce tương ớt duhr·erng ért milk sữa sũhr·uh eggs trứng chúhrng mineral water nước nuhr·érk fish sauce nước mắm nuhr·érk múhm khoáng (N) kwaáng flat rice phở fẻr nước suối (S) nuhr·érk soo·eé noodles orange juice cam vắt ğaam vúht fried rice cơm rang ğerm zaang red wine rượu vang zee·oọ vaang thập cẩm (N) tụhp ğủhm đỏ đỏ cơm chiên (S) ğerm jee·uhn soy milk sữa đậu sũhr·uh đọh honey mật ong mụht om nành naàng rice cơm ğerm sparkling rượu vang zee·oọ vaang salad sa lát saa laát wine có ga ğó gaa soup canh ğaang tea chè/trà (N/S) jà/chaà steamed rice cơm trắng ğerm chaáng white wine rượu vang zee·oọ vaang trắng chaáng ice đá đaá pepper hạt tiêu haạt dee·oo salt muối moo·eé EMERGENCIES Help! sugar đường dur·èrng Cứu tôi! ğuhr·oó doy thin rice bún bún There’s been an accident! noodles Có tai nạn! ğó dai naạn yellow egg mì meè Leave me alone! noodles Thôi! toy I’m lost. Tôi bị lạc đường. doi beẹ laạk đuhr·èrng Question Words Where is the toilet? How? Làm sao? laàm sow Nhà vệ sinh ở đâu? nyaà vẹ sing ẻr đoh Who? Ái? aí Please call the police. Làm ơn gọi công an. laàm ern gọy ğawm aan What? Cái gì? ğaí zeè Please call a doctor. When? Khi nào? kee nòw Làm ơn gọi bác sĩ. laàm ern gọy baák seẽ Where? Ở đâu? ẻr đoh I’m sick. Which? Cái nào? ğaí nòw Tôi bị đau. doy beẹ đoh Why? Tại sao? taị sow It hurts here. Chỗ bị đau ở đây. jãw beẹ đoh ẻr đay I’m allergic to (antibiotics). 532 Tôi bị dị ứng với doy beẹ zeẹ úhrng ver·eé Numbers (thuốc kháng sinh). (too·úhk kaáng sing) 1 một mạwt

LANGUAGE 2 hai hai SHOPPING & SERVICES 3 ba baa I’d like to buy ... Tôi muốn mua ... doy moo·úhn moo·uh ... 4 bốn báwn Can I look at it? 5 năm nuhm Tôi có thể xem doy ğó tẻ sam 6 sáu sóh

SHOPPING & SERVICES được không? đuhr·ẹrk kawm 7 I’m just looking. bảy bảy Tôi chỉ ngắm xem. doy jeẻ ngúhm sam 8 tám dúhm I don’t like it. 9 chín jín Tôi không thích nó. doy kawm tík nó 10 mười muhr·eè How much is this? Cái này giá bao nhiêu? ğaí này zaá bow nyee·oo 20 hai mươi hai muhr·ee It’s too expensive. 30 ba mươi ba muhr·ee Cái này quá mắc. ğaí này gwaá múhk 40 bốn mươi báwn muhr·ee Do you accept credit cards? 50 năm mươi nuhm muhr·ee Bạn có nhận thẻ baạn kó nyụhn tả tín dụng không? dín zụm kawm 60 sáu mươi sów muhr·ee There’s a mistake in the bill. 70 bảy mươi bảy muhr·ee Có sự nhầm lẫn ğó sụhr nyùhm lũhn 80 trên hoá đơn. chen hwaá đern tám mươi daám muhr·ee 90 chín mươi jín muhr·ee more nhiều hơn nyee·oò hern 100 một trăm mạwt chuhm less ít hơn ít hern 1000 một nghìn (N) mạwt ngyìn smaller nhỏ hơn nyỏ hern một ngàn (S) mọt ngaàn bigger lớn hơn lérn hern Monday thứ hai túhr hai I’m looking Tôi tìm ... doy dìm ... Tuesday thứ ba túhr baa for a/the ... Wednesday thứ tư túhr duhr bank ngân hàng nguhn haàng Thursday thứ năm túhr nuhm market chợ jẹr Friday thứ sáu túhr sóh post office bưu buhr·oo điện đee·ụhn Saturday thứ bảy túhr bảy public phòng điện fòm đee·ụhn Sunday chủ nhật jỏo nhụht phone thoại twaị tourist văn phòng vuhn fòm January tháng giêng taáng zee·uhng office hướng huhr·érng dẫn du lịch zũhn zoo lịk February tháng hai taáng hai March tháng ba taáng baa TIME & DATES April tháng tư taáng tuhr What time is it? May tháng năm taáng nuhm Mấy giờ rồi? máy zèr zòy June tháng sáu taáng sóh It’s (eight) o’clock. July tháng bảy taáng bảy Bây giờ là (tám) giờ. bay zèr laà (dúhm) zèr August tháng tám taáng dúhm morning buổi sáng boỏ·ee saáng September tháng chín taáng jín afternoon buổi chiều boỏ·ee jee·oò October tháng mười taáng muhr·eè evening buổi tối boỏ·ee dóy November tháng mười taáng muhr·eè yesterday hôm qua hawm ğwaa một mạwt today hôm nay hawm nay December tháng mười taáng muhr·eè hai hai tomorrow ngày mai ngày mai TRANSPORT Is this the road to ...? Con đường nầy ğon đuhr·èrng này 533 có dẫn đến ...? ğó zũhn đén ... How many kilometres to ...?

Public Transport LANGUAGE ... cách đây bao ... ğaák đay bow When does Chuyến ... jwee·úhn ... nhiêu ki-lô-mét? nyee·oo kee·law·mét the (first)... (sớm nhất) (sérm nyúht) Where’s a service station? leave/arrive? chạy lúc mấy jạy lúp máy Trạm xăng ở đâu? chaạm suhng ẻr doh giờ? zèr Please fill it up. boat tàu/ dòw/ Làm ơn đổ đầy bình. laàm ern đỏ đày bìng thuyền twee·ùhn TRANSPORT I’d like ... litres. bus xe buýt sa beét Tôi muốn ... lít. doy moo·úhn ... léet plane máy bay máy bay train xe lửa sa lủhr·uh diesel dầu diesel zòh dee·sel highway xa lộ saa lạw I’d like a ... Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn leaded dầu xăng zòh suhng ticket. vé ... vá ... petrol có chì ğó jeè 1st class hạng nhất haạng nyúht map bản đồ baản đàw 2nd class hạng nhì haạng nyeè unleaded dầu xăng zòh suhng one way đi một đee mạt petrol chiều jee·oò return khứ hồi kúhr haw·eè (How long) Can I park here? Chúng tôi có thể đậu júm doy ğó tẻ dọh I want to go to ... xe được (bao lâu)? sa đuhr·ẹrk (bow loh) Tôi muốn đi ... doy moo·úhn đee ... I need a mechanic. How long does the trip take? Chúng tôi cần thợ júm doy ğùhn tẹr Chuyến đi sẽ jwee·úhn đee sã sửa xe. sủhr·uh sa mất bao lâu? múht bow loh The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...) What time does it arrive? Xe bị hư (tại ...). sa beẹ huhr (daị ...) Mấy giờ đến? máy zèr đén The car/motorbike won’t start. How long will it be delayed? (Xe hơi/Xe moto) (sa her·ee/sa mo·to) Nó sẽ bị đình nó sã beẹ đìng không đề được. kawm đè đuhr·ẹrk hoãn bao lâu? hwaãn bow loh I have a flat tyre. Bánh xe tôi bị xì. baáng sa doy beẹ seè bus station bến xe bén sa I’ve run out of petrol. railway station ga xe lửa gaa sa lủhr·uh Tôi bị hết dầu/xăng. doy beẹ hét zòh/suhng sleeping berth giường ngủ zùhr·erng ngoỏ I’ve had an accident. Tôi bị tai nạn. doy beẹ dai naạn the first đầu tiên đòw dee·uhn the last cuối cùng ğoo·eé ğùm the next kế tiếp ğé dee·úhp Road Signs ticket office phòng bán vé fòm baán vá Cấm Đậu Xe No parking timetable thời biểu ter·eè beẻ·oo Cấm Vượt Qua No overtaking Chạy Chậm Lại Slow down Dừng Lại Stop Driving & Cycling Điện Cao Thế High voltage I’d like to Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn Đường Đang Sửa Chữa Roadworks hire a ... thuê ... (N) twe ... Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn Đường Sắt Railway muớn ... (S) muhr·érn ... Giao Thông Một Chiều One-way car xe hơi sa her·ee Lối Ra Exit bicycle xe đạp sa đạp Lối Vào Entrance motorbike xe moto sa mo·to Nguy Hiểm Danger pedicab xe xích lô sa sík law Thu Thuế Toll 534 HILL-TRIBE LANGUAGES

Ethnologists typically classify the hill tribes by linguistic distinction and commonly LANGUAGE refer to three main groups. The Austro-Asiatic family includes the Viet-Muong, Mon- Khmer (of which Vietnamese is also a member), Tày-Tai and Meo/H’mong-Dzao language groups; the Austronesian family includes Malayo-Polynesian languages; and the Sino-Tibetan family encompasses the Chinese and Tibeto-Burmese language groups. In addition, within a single spoken language there are often myriad dialectical variations. HILL-TRIBE LANGUAGES The following phrases should prove useful if you are visiting members of the larger Vietnamese hill tribes.

H'Mong The H’mong are also known as Meo, Mieu, Yes. Mi. Mong Do (White H’mong), Mong Du (Black No. Boomi. H’mong), Mong Lenh (Flower H’mong) Thank you. Ðay fon. and Mong Si (Red H’mong). They belong to the H’mong-Dzao language group. What’s your name? Ten múng le xăng ma? Hello. Ti nấu./Caó cu. Where are you from? Mu’ng du’ te là ma? Goodbye. Caó mun’g chè. How much is this? Ău ni ki lai tiên? Yes. Có mua. Dzao No. Chúi muá. Also known as Coc Mun, Coc Ngang, Dai Thank you. Ô chờ. Ban, Diu Mien, Dong, Kim Mien, lan Ten, Lu What’s your name? Caó be hua chan’g? Gang, Tieu Ban, Trai and Xa. They belong to the H’mong-Dzao language group. Where are you from? Caó nhao từ tuả? How much is this? Pố chố chá? Hello./Goodbye. Puang tọi. Tày Yes. Mái. Also known as the Ngan, Pa Di, Phen, Thu No. Mái mái. Lao and Tho, the Tày belong to the Tày-Tai Thank you. Tỡ dun. language group. What’s your name? Mang nhi búa chiên nay? Hello. Pá prama. Where are you from? May hải đo? Goodbye. Pá paynó. How much is this? Pchiả nhăng?

GLOSSARY

For food and drink terms, ao dai – Vietnamese national bang – congregation (in the see p530. dress worn by women Chinese community) apsaras – heavenly maidens bar om – literally ‘holding’ A Di Da – Buddha of the Past ARVN – Army of the bars associated with the Agent Orange – toxic, Republic of Vietnam (former sex industry. Also known as carcinogenic chemical South Vietnamese army) ‘karaoke om’. herbicide used extensively buu dien – post office during the American War ba mu – midwife. There am duong – Vietnamese are 12 ‘midwives’, each of cai luong – Vietnamese equivalent of whom teaches newborns a modern theatre American War – Vietnamese different skill necessary for Cao Daism – indigenous name for what is also known the first year of life: smiling, Vietnamese religion as the Vietnam War sucking, lying on their Cham – ethnic minority Annam – old Chinese name stomachs, and so forth descended from the people for Vietnam, meaning ban – mountainous village of Champa ‘Pacified South’ Champa – Hindu kingdom hai dang – lighthouse used by ethnic Vietnamese 535 dating from the late hat boi – classical theatre in to describe hill-tribe people 2nd century AD the south Montagnards – term mean-

Charlie – nickname for hat cheo – Vietnamese ing highlanders or mountain LANGUAGE the Viet Cong, used by popular theatre people, sometimes used to US soldiers hat tuong – classical theatre refer to the ethnic minorities chua – pagoda in the north who inhabit remote areas of Vietnam chu nho – ho ca – aquarium muong – large village unit characters (script) Ho Chi Minh Trail – route made up of quel (small Cochinchina – the southern used by the North Vietnam- GLOSSARY stilt-houses) part of Vietnam during the ese Army and Viet Cong to French-colonial era move supplies to the south com pho – rice and Hoa – ethnic Chinese, one of naga – Sanskrit term for rice-noodle soup the largest single minority a mythical serpent being crémaillère – cog railway groups in Vietnam with divine powers; often depicted forming a kind of cyclo – pedicab or bicycle hoi quan – Chinese shelter over the Buddha rickshaw congregational assembly halls nam phai – for men Dai The Chi Bo Tat – an huong – perfume napalm – jellied petrol (gaso- line) dropped and lit from assistant of A Di Da huyen – rural district aircraft; used by US forces dan bau – single-stringed with devastating repercus- zither that generates an Indochina – Vietnam, sions during the American astounding magnitude of Cambodia and Laos. The War tones name derives from Indian nguoi thuong – the current dan tranh – 16-stringed and Chinese influences. government’s preferred zither term for highland people den – temple kala-makara – sea-monster nha hang – restaurant Di Lac Buddha – Buddha of god nha khach – hotel or the Future kalan – a religious sanctuary guesthouse dikpalaka – gods of the khach san – hotel nha nghi – guesthouse directions of the compass Khmer – ethnic Cambodians nha rong – large stilt house, dinh – communal meeting used by hill tribes as a kind hall Khong Tu – Confucius of community centre DMZ – Demilitarised Zone, kich noi – spoken drama nha tro – dormitory a strip of land that once Kinh – Vietnamese language separated North and South Kuomintang – Chinese NLF – National Liberation Vietnam Nationalist Party, also known Front, the official name for the VC doi moi – economic as KMT. The KMT control- restructuring or reform, led China between 1925 and nom – Vietnamese script, which commenced in 1949 until defeated by the used between the 10th and Vietnam in 1986 communists. early 20th centuries dong – natural caves. Also nu phai – for women Vietnamese currency. li xi – lucky money nui – mountain dong son – drums distributed during the nuoc mam – fish sauce, Vietnamese Lunar New Year added to almost every main dish in Vietnam ecocide – term used to liberation – 1975 takeover describe the devastating of the South by the North. NVA – North Vietnamese effects of the herbicides Most foreigners call this Army sprayed over Vietnam ‘reunification’. during the American War Lien Xo – literally, Soviet Oc-Eo – Indianised Khmer Union. Used to call attention kingdom (also called to a foreigner fléchette – experimental US Funan) in southern Vietnam weapon. An artillery shell linga – stylised phallus between the 1st and 6th containing thousands of which represents the Hindu centuries darts. god Shiva Ong Bon – Guardian Spirit of Funan – see Oc-Eo Happiness and Virtue manushi-buddha – Buddha OSS – US Office of Strategic who appeared in human form Services. The predecessor garuda – half human- of the CIA. half bird moi – derogatory word meaning ‘savages’, mostly gom – ceramics ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

536 pagoda – traditionally an salangane – swiftlet toc hanh – express bus eight-sided Buddhist tower, sao – wooden flute Tonkin – the northern part of but in Vietnam the word is saola – antelope-like Vietnam during the French- commonly used to denote LANGUAGE creature colonial era. Also the name a temple shakti – feminine of a body of water in the phong thuy – literally, ‘wind manifestation of Shiva north (Tonkin Gulf). and water’. Used to describe song – river truyen khau – traditional oral geomancy. Also known by literature its Chinese name, feng shui. SRV – Socialist Republic of Vietnam (Vietnam’s official PRG – Provisional Revolu- GLOSSARY name) UNHCR – UN High tionary Government, the Commissioner for Refugees temporary Communist Strategic Hamlets Program – government set up by the program (by South Vietnam VC – Viet Cong or VC in the South. It existed and the USA) of forcibly Vietnamese Communists from 1969 to 1976. moving peasants into forti- fied villages to deny the VC Viet Kieu – overseas bases of support Vietnamese quan – urban district sung – fig tree Viet Minh – League for the Quan Cong – Chinese God Independence of Vietnam, of War Tam Giao – literally, ‘triple a nationalistic movement Quan The Am Bo Tat – God- religion’. Confucianism, that fought the Japanese dess of Mercy Taoism and Buddhism fused and French but later quoc am – modern over time with popular became communist domi- Vietnamese literature Chinese beliefs and ancient nated quoc ngu – Latin-based Vietnamese animism. VNQDD – Viet Nam Quoc phonetic alphabet in which Tao – the Way. The essence Dan Dang. Largely middle Vietnamese is written of which all things are made. -class nationalist party. Tay ba lo – backpacker rap – cinema Tet – Vietnamese Lunar xang – petrol Revolutionary Youth League – New Year xe Honda loi – wagon pulled first Marxist group in Viet- thai cuc quyen – Vietnamese by a motorbike nam and predecessor of the for t’ai chi xe lam – tiny three-wheeled Communist Party Thich Ca Buddha – the trucks used for short-haul roi can – conventional historical Buddha Sakya- passenger and freight muni, whose real name was transport roi nuoc – water puppetry Siddhartha Gautama xe loi – wagon pulled by a ruou (pronounced xeo) – thong nhat – reunification. motorbike in the Mekong rice wine Also a common term for the Delta region RVN – Republic of Vietnam Reunification Express train. xe om – motorbike taxi, also (the old South Vietnam) thuoc bac – Chinese called Honda om medicine xich lo – cyclo, from the French cyclo-pousse

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