How To Cook Meat 441 surrounded by steam or the hot liquid. You have to know more about the cuts and grades of beef than you do about veal, pork, or lamb, because beef comes from older animals; there are more cuts of beef and more ways to serve them; and the ranges in qual- How To ity and price are wider.

BEEF GUTS from the round and chuck Cook Meat of low-grade carcasses (Commercial and Utility) are best braised or sim- mered for tenderness and develop- ment of the full, rich flavor of mature ALL YOU NEED TO DO to be a celebrated beef. cook is to apply a few basic principles The cuts from the round and chuck in selecting and cooking meat and add of high-grade carcasses (Prime and originality to sauces and seasonings. Choice) may be roasted or broiled. The reputations of many famous chefs Other beef cuts to braise or simmer rest on how they cook meat. include shortribs, flank, brisket, and Clues as to the best way to cook a corned beef. particular cut are the amount of fat If you do not know the quality of a in the lean portion, the connective cut, it is best to braise or simmer it. tissue, and the shape of the bone. Heat causes toughening of muscle VEAL, LAMB, and pork cuts are tender. fibers, and toughening is less noticeable They come from young animals. when flecks of fat are distributed Because of its mild flavor, small throughout the lean—that is, when the amount of fat, and relatively large meat is well marbled. amounts of connective tissue, however, Connective tissue, which binds to- veal needs slow cpoking to the well- gether muscle fibers in the lean meat, done stage to develop flavor and to increases in amount with age of ani- soften connective tissue. Large, meaty mal and exercise of the muscle. Cuts cuts of veal may be roasted. Thin cuts containing large amounts of connec- (chops and cutlets) may be braised or tive tissue are less tender and require panfried. Bony cuts (riblets, breast, slow cooking with moisture in order and shanks) should be braised or to soften the connective tissue. simmered. The T-bone, rib, and wedge bones Veal has too little fat for satisfactory appear in the more tender cuts, which broiling. included muscles along the backbone Most cuts of lamb are tender enough that received little exercise. to be roasted, broiled, or cooked with- Tender cuts (which often are the out added moisture. It is best to braise most expensive) usually are best when neck, breast, riblets, and other bony roasted, broiled, panbroiled, or pan- cuts, which contain large amounts of fried. connective tissue. The round bone in leg (round) and Fresh cuts of pork are tender enough the round and blade bones of the to be roasted or baked. Pork chops and shoulder (chuck) are signs of less ten- steaks may be panfried or braised. der cuts. Many cuts containing round Fresh pork requires a long cooking bones may be roasted or panfried, but period to develop flavor. Broiling these less tender cuts, from the parts therefore is not recommended. of the body that are exercised the most, Smoked slices of ham and Canadian often are better when they are braised bacon may be broiled. Smoked hams or cooked with liquid, and the meat is and shoulders usually are roasted or 442 The Yearbook of Agriculture 1965 baked, although, for milder flavor, it is Low to moderate cooking tempera- best to simmer country-style hams. tures (300° to 350° F.) are particularly important for roasting the less tender IF YOU TRY to speed the cooking, you cuts of the leg and shoulder. are apt to have tough, dry meat. So, Cooking time depends on the shape, choose meat that you can prepare size, and composition as well as degree properly in the time you have. of doneness of the meat. Roasting and braising usually re- Thick, chimky cuts take more time quire more than an hour. Broiling and than thin cuts of the same weight. panbroiling can be done in less than Allow an extra 10 minutes per pound an hour. for boneless or rolled roasts. For long or slow cooking, you have Frozen meat may be roasted satis- a variety of meat from which to choose. factorily either thawed or unthawed. Use low to moderate temperatures The roasting time for frozen meat is for cooking all meat. This basic prin- about one and one-half times that of ciple may be the difference between a fresh or thawed meat. tough, dry product and a tender, juicy one. Too much heat can make even BROILING is cooking by direct heat the tenderest meat tough. from a flame, electric unit, or glowing Meat cooked at low temperatures coals. will have less shrinkage and fewer For broiling, use steaks and chops cooking losses and therefore provide at least an inch thick and cured ham more servings. It will be tender and slices one-half inch thick. Slash the juicy and will be uniformly cooked. outside fat at intervals to keep the There is less spattering and less meat from curling, and place it on the watching. broiler rack. Broil each side and turn the cut about midway during the ROASTING is done in heated air (usually cooking period. in an oven) in an uncovered pan with To test doneness, cut a small slit in no additional liquid. the lean and note the color and texture To roast meat, place it fat side up of the interior. on a rack in an uncovered pan. Insert Allow 10 to 25 minutes for broiling a meat thermometer in the center of I-inch steaks—the shorter time for cut. The tip of the thermometer should rare, the longer for well-done meat. be in muscle, rather than fat, and it Lamb chops and cured ham slices should not touch bone. A meat ther- require 12 to 20 minutes. Canadian mometer is the most accurate guide for bacon needs only i o minutes. determining doneness. Use low to moderate temperatures Place the meat in a slow oven (325° for broiling. F.) and roast it to the desired degree The broiling temperature may be of doneness. regulated by changing the distance

ESTIMATED TIMES FOR ROASTING MEAT CONTAINING BONE IN AN OVEN 3 25*^ F.

Internal temperature of meat when 5'pound cut done {Fahrenheit) Hours Beef 140° (rare). 2 to 2>i 160° (medium) 0^/2 to 3. 180° (weU) 3 to 32/3. Veal 170° (well) . 2>^ to 3H. Lamb 180° (well) 2% to 3J4. Fresh pork 185° (well) 3>i to 4. Smoked pork: Cook before eating 160° to 170°... 2}^ to 3)^, Fully cooked 130° i)^ to 2. Hùw To Cook Meca 443 between the meat and the source of More liquid may be added if necessary. the heat, altering the thermostat set- Some cuts may be braised without ting on some broilers, or adjusting the any added liquid; the meat itself pro- opening of the broiler door. vides the moisture. Cover tightly and For frozen steaks and chops, use very cook slowly until the meat is fork ten- low broiling temperatures and increase der (well done). the broiling time about one-third. Braising may be done on top of the range (simmer setting), in a moderate PANBROILING and panfrying are varia- oven (350°), or in a pressure saucepan. tions of broiling wherein cooking is The cooking time depends on the done by direct contact with a heated kind, amount, and thickness of the pan. meat. For i-inch chops, allow 45 to In panbroiling, no fat is added, and 60 minutes; for i-inch-thick steaÈ, 2 the fat is poured off or removed as it hours ; for roasts, 2 to 4 hours. accumulates. Braising in a pressure saucepan re- When fat is added to the pan or al- duces the cooking time, but more lowed to accumulate, the method is shrinkage and less juicy meat result. called frying, panfrying, or sauteing. Guts less than i-inch thick may be STEWING (or simmering), a form of used for panbroiling and panfrying. braising, refers to cooking meat in To panbroil or panfry meat, slash the liquid just below the boiling point. outer edge of the fat to keep meat For stews, the meat is cut into i - to 2- from curling. Cook the meat slowly in inch cubes. a heavy frying pan, uncovered, over To stew or simmer meat, brown the low to medium heat. Turn it occasion- meat in a heavy pan or kettle (except ally. Gradual browning produces juicy corned beef and smoked cuts, which meat. usually are not browned). Dust the Cooking time for panbroiling is meat with flour before browning if a about the same as that for broiling. deep-brown color is desired. Barely Panfrying takes a little less time. The cover the meat with liquid. Season. total cooking time for panbroiled pat- Cover the kettle tightly and cook ties or I -inch beefsteaks or lamb chops slowly over low heat until the meat is is about I o to 20 minutes, depending tender. The time depends on the cut on doneness. For panfrying, 8 to 15 and its size. About 30 to 45 minutes minutes are required. before the meat is done, add carrots, To panfry chops and steaks (cutlets) potatoes, onions, and other vegetables from veal or pork carcasses, allow 25 as desired. Add liquid as necessary. to 30 minutes. Meat to be panfried Overcooking shrinks meat and makes may be dredged first in seasoned flour it dry, flavorless, stringy, and hard to or crumbs to increase browning. carve. About 3 hours is required to simmer a 4- to 5-pound cut. Stew BRAISING is cooking in steam that is meat requires about 2 hours for the trapped and held in a covered con- meat to become fork tender. tainer or foil wrap. Allow 3 to 4 hours for simmering Pot roasting is braising large cuts of corned beef, oxtails, or ham hocks, meat on top of range or in the oven. but only 15 to 30 minutes for sweet- First, brown the meat slowly on all breads. sides in a heavy frying pan to develop When liquid is the cooking medium, color and flavor. Add fat for browning seasonings penetrate the meat and add low-fat meats, such as veal, and for variety to meat dishes. The possibili- floured meats. Season the meat and ties are almost limitless, since flavor add a small amount of liquid, such as can be varied according to the liquid water, vegetable juice, or diluted soy and seasonings used. The liquid may sauce (about one-half cup for a roast). be water, soup stock, consomme, bouil- 444 The Yearbook of Agriculture 1965 Ion, fruit or vegetable juice, soy sauce, The class is based on physical char- sour cream, or marinade. Seasonings acteristics associated with age and sex. may be herbs, spices, and vegetables. The classes of each kind progress from Cookbooks, magazines, and news- young and tender poultry to fully ma- papers often feature recipes for spe- ture. The classes listed in the table as cialty meat dishes that use braising and tender can be cooked by any method simmering procedures. or used in any recipe. The more Exotic or foreign tides frequently mature classes have less-tender flesh hide simple recipes that use inexpen- and require certain procedures. sive cuts—boeuf à la mode, for example, is French for pot roast. THE SECOND POINTER is: Apply dry or Opportunities for applying your cre- moist cooking at moderate tempera- ative abilities are especially great with tures as required for the particular braised and simmered meats. Try class of poultry. That is, vary the braised meat seasoned delicately with method of cooking according to the a sprinkling of fresh or dried herbs, age of the poultry. such as rosemary or marjoram. Add When you do this, it is easy to select asparagus, okra, or parsnips to a stew. the right class of poultry for a special Or serve a tart fruit sauce of red cher- recipe or, if necessary, to adapt a ries or cranberries with ham or pork. recipe to assure a tender, juicy product A meat dish with a subtle, distinc- from a particular class of poultry. tive flavor that is simply prepared can Dry heating includes all methods in be the basis for your reputation as an which dry air surrounds the poultry. excellent cook. Just select the meat, Examples are cooking in an open pan cook it properly at low to moderate in an oven, under the broiler, or over temperatures, and add seasonings hot coals. Cooking poultry by hot fat with ingenuity. (OLIVE M. BATCHER) also is considered to be a dry-heating method. These methods are suitable only for the young, tender-meated classes. The second way, by moist heating, modifies the dry methods so that the more mature classes can be cooked tender. Covering the pan to surround Cooking the bird with steam or adding varied amounts of liquids, such as water, sauces, or vegetable juices, and heating Poultry with moderate temperatures assures moist heating. As basic cooking methods represent- ative of dry heating you should know THREE POINTERS to success in cooking how to roast, fry, and broil. Modifica- poultry are: tions of these methods to moist heat- Know the classes of poultry that are ing methods, such as oven and pan available. braising or simmering, follow easily. Cook poultry at moderate tempera- If you know of the basic cooking tures with moist or dry heat, as may methods for dry and moist heating, be required. you can extend your skill to more Serve poultry accented with season- elaborate recipes. ings at the peak of cooked quality. A bird you select with a knowledge The particular class of each kind of of its age can be dipped into the right poultry—turkeys, chicken, ducks, seasonings or coating and roasted, geese, guineas, pigeons—^is the index fried, or simmered so that every time to the type of cooking. it is done to perfection.