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The Face of the Future Luxury Watch Brands Are Moving Forward by Looking Back Illustration by Matt Herring

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The Face of the Future Luxury Watch Brands Are Moving Forward by Looking Back Illustration by Matt Herring FASHION | TRAVEL | WINE | FOOD | HOMES | CULTURE | BOOKS | COLLECTING Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 WSJ.com/lifestyle The Face of the Future Luxury Watch Brands Are Moving Forward By Looking Back Illustration by Matt Herring [ INSIDE ] GEAR Auctions fly high with iconic motors W11 STYLE Perfumer Frédéric Malle and the seductive power of scent W5 GADGETS From shutterbug to filmmaker W9 W2 | Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. STYLE & FASHION Passing Time Michael Clerizo surveys the scene at SIHH, the annual gathering of luxury watchmakers in Geneva he euro zone could crumble, brand in 2001, Richard Mille has ex- the Middle East explode, plored the connection between cars TChina might sink into reces- and watches. “Cars,” he says via sion, and America may buckle under email, “at their very heart, utilize the pressure of its debt ceiling, but the very old technology of the com- does any of this concern the high- bustion engine, combined with mod- end watch industry, currently gath- ern materials and concepts, today ered en masse in Geneva? with an added dose of electronics. “Of course we think about these All advances made with car develop- things,” says Alexander Schmiedt, ment are incremental and don’t re- Montblanc’s managing director of ally change the essence of the beast, MONTBLANC watches. “They are hovering around which is: you put fossil fuels in and Rising Hours and we have to prepare for them, it moves, end of story. €26,900 but they do not change our long- “Look at the high-end watch: in red gold term strategy. Our long-term strat- totally mechanical, same as it IWC egy is all about our watches.” was more than half a millen- Chronograph Racer Watches from Montblanc and 15 nium ago,” Mr. Mille contin- €5,000 other luxury brands have taken over ues. “Everything has been Geneva’s Palexpo this week for Le Sa- discovered about watchmak- lon International de la Haute Hor- ing, yet, we are always able logerie (SIHH), which ends Friday. to bring things another Here, brands strut their newest stuff step forward, each and for collectors, retailers and journal- every year.” ists. But there is little point in look- This year, Mr. Mille RICHARD MILLE ing for trends. The watch world isn’t is powering his brand Tourbillon G-Sensor the fashion world, where products with the Tourbillon G- RM 036 Jean Todt change every six months. Instead, Sensor RM 036 Jean Limited Edition trends are measured in decades, even Todt Limited Edition, estimated at for relatively new producers, and the which measures the €336,000 latest models tend to take inspiration effect of G-forces on from brands’ own histories. adriverinarapidly Take Montblanc, which unveiled decelerating car. PANERAI Luminor 1950 ‘Everything has been discovered about Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio watchmaking, yet, we are always able €13,125 to bring things another step forward, each and every year.’ its first watch in 1997. Five years For those enam- ago, the company used its history as ored of esoteric com- PIAGET apenproducerasinspirationforits plications and names Emperador Coussin Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph, to match, Italian brand Ultra-Thin Minute named for the man who patented Officine Panerai offers Repeater his stopwatch complication inven- the sure-to-lure Lumi- €187,740 tion in 1822. Because Rieussec’s nor 1950 Rattrapante 8 chronographs employed a stationary Days Titanio. One word nib that inked elapsed time on ro- at a time: “Luminor” is tating discs, Montblanc saw a natu- for a luminous substance ral link between his invention and developed by Panerai that the company’s own history. makes numerals and hands CARTIER Until now, Montblanc’s chrono- easier to read underwater; The Calibre de Cartier graphs have featured traditional 1950 is the year Luminor was Chronograph hour and minute hands on the main introduced; “Rattrapante” is a €8,110 dial and smaller rotating disk sub- chronograph with two second dials with stationary hands to mea- hands, enabling the timing of sin- RALPH LAUREN sure elapsed minutes and seconds. gle lap times in a multilap race; “8 Sporting World Time Their newest model, Rising Hours, Days” refers to the time the watch €7,135 pushes the no-hands design even will run when fully wound; and “Ti- further. The minute hand remains tanio” is Italian for titanium, the but hours are displayed on a main case metal. rotating disc. The hour numerals are ApossiblemottoforPiagetis“A blue at night and black during the watch can never be too thin.” This day. There are also windows dis- year’s offering, the Emperador playing the day and the date. Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Re- This year, IWC Schaffhausen up- peater,chimesthehoursandmin- dates the Ingenieur collection utes inside an 18-karat pink-gold (launched in 1955 and retooled in case only 9.4 millimeters thick. the ’70s) via its link with the Mer- Fabled jewelry and watch brand cedes AMG Petronas Formula One Cartier launched the Calibre de Team. The new watches, ranging in Cartier Chronograph,itsfirstin- price from €4,955 to €201,900, are house self-winding movement with sleeker than their predecessors but chronograph—the fruit of a multi- nod to history by retaining the five million-euro investment in watch- visible screw-bores on their bezels. making. The watch has a dial with Most of the new collection has rac- oversized Roman numerals and ing-friendly complications: chrono- sword hands, Cartier mainstays graphs and tachymeters that mea- since the days of Art Deco. On the sure speed over a set distance. The case, different surfaces have differ- Chronograph Racer also has an au- ent finishes: the chronograph but- tomotive-appropriate rubber strap tons are polished to a smooth and and flyback function stopwatch lustrous shine, while the sides and ideal for recording pit-stop times. lugs are brushed for a subtler look. Since founding his eponymous Ralph Lauren is one of the few THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 | W3 STYLE & FASHION lifestyle brands that has succeeded at eight o’clock is gold and engraved in the luxury watch world. This year, with the brand logo. At the center it adds Sporting World Time,a of the dial is a miniature enamel blue-dial watch that keeps track of painting of flowers. When the hour time in 24 time zones, to the and minute hands meet at 12 brand’s Sporting collection. o’clock, they form a flower complete One brand, Audemars Piguet, has with stem and leaves. “The design outdone its rivals by producing a on the dial was inspired by Pierre- Royal Oak Offshore Grande Com- Joseph Redouté, a Belgian painter plication.Thewatchadheresto who lived at the time of the French horological tradition for grand com- Revolution and worked for Marie- plications with a rattrapante chro- Antoinette,” Mr. Lamarche says. nograph, a minute repeater, a per- “Redouté was know as the Raphael petual calendar and moon phases. of Flowers because of his beautiful Audemars Piguet plans to produce paintings of nature. I want this im- only three titanium-cased examples. age on the dial to be a way of escap- “With the introduction of this ing from everyday life.” movement in the Royal Oak Off- AsurpriseatGTEhasbeenthe shore, not only do we master the presence of an American brand: RGM artistry of complicated movements Watch Co., founded in 1992 in Mount but have also broken the rules by Joy, Penn., by watchmaker Roland G. placing it in our most extreme Murphy. The 52-year-old is celebrat- AUDEMARS PIGUET sports design,” says CEO François- ing the brand’s 20th anniversary with Royal Oak Offshore Henry Bennahmias. anewwatch,thetourneau(cushion)- Grande Complication Determining the best watch in- shaped Caliber 20.Thein-house €533,700 troduced at SIHH is a time-wasting movement is the third from RGM and exercise. After all, how do you define composed of 90% homegrown Ameri- “best”? Selecting the most beauti- can parts. Caliber 20 features a sec- VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ful watch, however, is easy: Van onds sub-dial positioned at two Enchanted Ballerina Cleef & Arpels’s o’clock, visually balanced by a moon €105,885 Enchanted Bal- lerina,withadialthatfeatures phase dial at eight o’clock. abejeweledballerina.Pusha button and the ballerina’s Beyond the Shows tutu becomes the wings of In 1996, François-Paul Journe, a H. MOSER abutterflythatflutter 39-year-old French watchmaker Meridian Dual Time along two arcs of numer- with a deep knowledge of his craft, €27,700 in rose gold als—one on the right of arrived in Geneva with a modus the dial to indicate min- operandi to tease out innovations utes and one of the left from the great inventions of watch- to indicate the hour. making’s past. At his workshop, the latest offer- JULIEN COUDRAY Down the River ing, the Chronomèter Optimum, Manufactura 1528 Running parallel to boasts a double-wheel escapement. Miniature SIHH, the fourth an- (Escapements regulate the flow of €123,900 nual Geneva Time energy in a mechanical watch.) Exhibition (GTE), These escapements appear in 18th- which ended Thurs- and 19th-century pocket watches but day, featured lesser- are rare in wristwatches. Mr. known brands. Journe’s brainchild improves on its RGM Among the 34 ancestors by functioning without lu- Caliber 20 exhibitors, H. Mo- brication, the Achilles' heel of those €14,650 ser & Cie is a con- earlier iterations. The Chronomèter trarian brand from Optimum, part of the brand’s Sou- Schaffhausen. While veraine collection, also features a re- many brands’ montoire, a device that aids the es- watches shout their capement in its energy-controlling presence on a role.
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