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Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 WSJ.com/lifestyle

The Face of the Future Luxury Watch Brands Are Moving Forward By Looking Back Illustration by Matt Herring

[ INSIDE ]

GEAR Auctions fly high with iconic motors W11

STYLE Frédéric Malle and the seductive power of scent W5 GADGETS From shutterbug to filmmaker W9 W2 | Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. STYLE & FASHION Passing Time Michael Clerizo surveys the scene at SIHH, the annual gathering of luxury watchmakers in Geneva

he euro zone could crumble, brand in 2001, Richard Mille has ex- the Middle East explode, plored the connection between cars TChina might sink into reces- and watches. “Cars,” he says via sion, and America may buckle under email, “at their very heart, utilize the pressure of its debt ceiling, but the very old technology of the com- does any of this concern the high- bustion engine, combined with mod- end watch industry, currently gath- ern materials and concepts, today ered en masse in Geneva? with an added dose of electronics. “Of course we think about these All advances made with car develop- things,” says Alexander Schmiedt, ment are incremental and don’t re- Montblanc’s managing director of ally change the essence of the beast, MONTBLANC watches. “They are hovering around which is: you put fossil fuels in and Rising Hours and we have to prepare for them, it moves, end of story. €26,900 but they do not change our long- “Look at the high-end watch: in red gold term strategy. Our long-term strat- totally mechanical, same as it IWC egy is all about our watches.” was more than half a millen- Chronograph Racer Watches from Montblanc and 15 nium ago,” Mr. Mille contin- €5,000 other luxury brands have taken over ues. “Everything has been Geneva’s Palexpo this week for Le Sa- discovered about watchmak- lon International de la Haute Hor- ing, yet, we are always able logerie (SIHH), which ends Friday. to bring things another Here, brands strut their newest stuff step forward, each and for collectors, retailers and journal- every year.” ists. But there is little point in look- This year, Mr. Mille RICHARD MILLE ing for trends. The watch world isn’t is powering his brand Tourbillon G-Sensor the fashion world, where products with the Tourbillon G- RM 036 Jean Todt change every six months. Instead, Sensor RM 036 Jean Limited Edition trends are measured in decades, even Todt Limited Edition, estimated at for relatively new producers, and the which measures the €336,000 latest models tend to take inspiration effect of G-forces on from brands’ own histories. adriverinarapidly Take Montblanc, which unveiled decelerating car.

PANERAI Luminor 1950 ‘Everything has been discovered about Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio watchmaking, yet, we are always able €13,125 to bring things another step forward, each and every year.’ its first watch in 1997. Five years For those enam- ago, the company used its history as ored of esoteric com- PIAGET apenproducerasinspirationforits plications and names Emperador Coussin Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph, to match, Italian brand Ultra-Thin Minute named for the man who patented Officine Panerai offers Repeater his stopwatch complication inven- the sure-to-lure Lumi- €187,740 tion in 1822. Because Rieussec’s nor 1950 Rattrapante 8 chronographs employed a stationary Days Titanio. One word nib that inked elapsed time on ro- at a time: “Luminor” is tating discs, Montblanc saw a natu- for a luminous substance ral link between his invention and developed by Panerai that the company’s own history. makes numerals and hands CARTIER Until now, Montblanc’s chrono- easier to read underwater; The Calibre de Cartier graphs have featured traditional 1950 is the year Luminor was Chronograph hour and minute hands on the main introduced; “Rattrapante” is a €8,110 dial and smaller rotating disk sub- chronograph with two second dials with stationary hands to mea- hands, enabling the timing of sin- RALPH LAUREN sure elapsed minutes and seconds. gle lap times in a multilap race; “8 Sporting World Time Their newest model, Rising Hours, Days” refers to the time the watch €7,135 pushes the no-hands design even will run when fully wound; and “Ti- further. The minute hand remains tanio” is Italian for titanium, the but hours are displayed on a main case metal. rotating disc. The hour numerals are ApossiblemottoforPiagetis“A blue at night and black during the watch can never be too thin.” This day. There are also windows dis- year’s offering, the Emperador playing the day and the date. Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Re- This year, IWC Schaffhausen up- peater,chimesthehoursandmin- dates the Ingenieur collection utes inside an 18-karat pink-gold (launched in 1955 and retooled in case only 9.4 millimeters thick. the ’70s) via its link with the Mer- Fabled jewelry and watch brand cedes AMG Petronas Formula One Cartier launched the Calibre de Team. The new watches, ranging in Cartier Chronograph,itsfirstin- price from €4,955 to €201,900, are house self-winding movement with sleeker than their predecessors but chronograph—the fruit of a multi- nod to history by retaining the five million-euro investment in watch- visible screw-bores on their bezels. making. The watch has a dial with Most of the new collection has rac- oversized Roman numerals and ing-friendly complications: chrono- sword hands, Cartier mainstays graphs and tachymeters that mea- since the days of Art Deco. On the sure speed over a set distance. The case, different surfaces have differ- Chronograph Racer also has an au- ent finishes: the chronograph but- tomotive-appropriate rubber strap tons are polished to a smooth and and flyback function stopwatch lustrous shine, while the sides and ideal for recording pit-stop times. lugs are brushed for a subtler look. Since founding his eponymous Ralph Lauren is one of the few THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 | W3 STYLE & FASHION

lifestyle brands that has succeeded at eight o’clock is gold and engraved in the luxury watch world. This year, with the brand logo. At the center it adds Sporting World Time,a of the dial is a miniature enamel blue-dial watch that keeps track of painting of flowers. When the hour time in 24 time zones, to the and minute hands meet at 12 brand’s Sporting collection. o’clock, they form a flower complete One brand, Audemars Piguet, has with stem and leaves. “The design outdone its rivals by producing a on the dial was inspired by Pierre- Royal Oak Offshore Grande Com- Joseph Redouté, a Belgian painter plication.Thewatchadheresto who lived at the time of the French horological tradition for grand com- Revolution and worked for Marie- plications with a rattrapante chro- Antoinette,” Mr. Lamarche says. nograph, a minute repeater, a per- “Redouté was know as the Raphael petual calendar and moon phases. of Flowers because of his beautiful Audemars Piguet plans to produce paintings of nature. I want this im- only three titanium-cased examples. age on the dial to be a way of escap- “With the introduction of this ing from everyday life.” movement in the Royal Oak Off- AsurpriseatGTEhasbeenthe shore, not only do we master the presence of an American brand: RGM artistry of complicated movements Watch Co., founded in 1992 in Mount but have also broken the rules by Joy, Penn., by watchmaker Roland G. placing it in our most extreme Murphy. The 52-year-old is celebrat- AUDEMARS PIGUET sports design,” says CEO François- ing the brand’s 20th anniversary with Royal Oak Offshore Henry Bennahmias. anewwatch,thetourneau(cushion)- Grande Complication Determining the best watch in- shaped Caliber 20.Thein-house €533,700 troduced at SIHH is a time-wasting movement is the third from RGM and exercise. After all, how do you define composed of 90% homegrown Ameri- “best”? Selecting the most beauti- can parts. Caliber 20 features a sec- VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ful watch, however, is easy: Van onds sub-dial positioned at two Enchanted Ballerina Cleef & Arpels’s o’clock, visually balanced by a moon €105,885 Enchanted Bal- lerina,withadialthatfeatures phase dial at eight o’clock. abejeweledballerina.Pusha button and the ballerina’s Beyond the Shows tutu becomes the wings of In 1996, François-Paul Journe, a H. MOSER abutterflythatflutter 39-year-old French watchmaker Meridian Dual Time along two arcs of numer- with a deep knowledge of his craft, €27,700 in rose gold als—one on the right of arrived in Geneva with a modus the dial to indicate min- operandi to tease out innovations utes and one of the left from the great inventions of watch- to indicate the hour. making’s past. At his workshop, the latest offer- JULIEN COUDRAY Down the River ing, the Chronomèter Optimum, Manufactura 1528 Running parallel to boasts a double-wheel escapement. Miniature SIHH, the fourth an- (Escapements regulate the flow of €123,900 nual Geneva Time energy in a mechanical watch.) Exhibition (GTE), These escapements appear in 18th- which ended Thurs- and 19th-century pocket watches but day, featured lesser- are rare in wristwatches. Mr. known brands. Journe’s brainchild improves on its RGM Among the 34 ancestors by functioning without lu- Caliber 20 exhibitors, H. Mo- brication, the Achilles' heel of those €14,650 ser & Cie is a con- earlier iterations. The Chronomèter trarian brand from Optimum, part of the brand’s Sou- Schaffhausen. While veraine collection, also features a re- many brands’ montoire, a device that aids the es- watches shout their capement in its energy-controlling presence on a role. To his trademark off-center di- F. P. JOURNE wearer’s wrist, Mo- als, Mr. Journe added a power-re- Chronomèter ser’s give a silent serve gauge and exposed remontoire. Optimum wink. Dials are smoky Another inventive Frenchman, €64,885 shades of brown, blue 52-year-old Christophe Claret, based in rose gold or gray, matched with in Le Locle, foregoes the classicism white- or yellow-gold and formality of Messrs. Lamarche hands and markers, and Journe for a contemporary de- large date windows and sign—but one based around tradi- moon-phase displays. tional components. His Soprano The brand’s latest watch, rings the hours and minutes with the , Westminster Chimes in imitation of CHRISTOPHE CLARET Meridian Dual Time indicates the time in a sec- London’s Big Ben, the preferred Soprano ond time zone with a dark melody of watchmakers since the €375,475 red hand. When not needed, mid-19th century. The watch also the red hand disappears be- has a tourbillon, an invention more neath the regular hour hand. than 200 years old, and Charles X New brands that keep produc- bridges (stationary components that MB&F tion numbers low but design val- hold moving parts) common in HM5 ues, and consequently prices, high pocket watches from the 1820s. €47,310 have been drawing interest from in- These horological mainstays are vestors. One example is Julien surmounted by tradition-busting Coudray 1518, based in the Swiss black-on-black, black-on-red or mountain town of Le Locle, about black-on-blue hands. two hours northeast of Geneva. The Watches from MB&F, founded in founder, 43-year-old French master 2005 by Max Büsser, then 38 years watchmaker Fabien Lamarche, was old, don’t so much sit on as appear an industry backroom boy produc- to orbit the wrist. Mr. Büsser runs ing exceptional watches for famous the brand as an artist collective, brands but without any recognition. with as many as 40 watchmakers, In 2007, he launched his own brand, designers and technicians contribut- named after a 16th-century French ing to the realization of each piece. watchmaker. Over the next five Debuting this year is the HM5,a years, Mr. Lamarche secured finan- wedge-shaped digital display watch cial backing from luxury industry in- conceived as a tribute to the 1970s- vestors. Last year, the brand pro- era of quartz watches and tapered duced its first complete collection. supercars. The HM5, with its futur- On show at GTE this year has istic design, has a weirdly practical been a pièce unique, the Manufac- feature: a drainage system that tura 1528 Miniature.Themove- comes to the rescue if the watch ment for this time-only watch is gets wet. The watch, as well as fashioned from red gold and deli- other carefully curated pieces, can cately decorated. The red-gold case be found at MB&F’s Mechanical Art is set with 193 diamonds. Inlaid on Devices Gallery on rue Verdaine, Ge- the dial are 11 separate enameled neva. A visit here should live up to lozenges for the hours. One lozenge the gallery’s acronym: M.A.D. W4 | Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. EATING & DRINKING

Chef Sanjay Dwivedi’s Why Coya Is Zagat’s Hottest Restaurant Seabass Ceviche TOTAL TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4 [ Food ] 6 fillets of sea , skinned 4limes,juiced BY BRUCE PALLING 125 milliliter fish ½peeled white onion Perhaps it should ½headcelery be no surprise 1 bulb garlic that, earlier this month, the Zagat 1 de-seeded ají limo pepper Guide adjudged the ½bunchcoriander(keep10leaves) hottest restaurant 5 grams of ginger anywhere in the world to be in 125 grams of sweet potatoes London. What does raise eye- 1 star anise brows, though, is that it chose 100 grams of Peruvian white corn Coya, the two-month-old, Peru- ½de-seeded, finely chopped vian-inspired basement restaurant long red chili in Mayfair, whose head isn’t ½finelyslicedredonion Peruvian and has only spent a couple of weeks in Peru. Still, the HOW TO PREPARE IT: end result is impressive. 1. For the Leche de Tigre marinade, So why has Coya Restaurant & use a blender to blitz onion, celery, Bar—the latest addition to the garlic, ají limo, coriander and ginger collection of Indian entrepreneur with fish stock. This is to break down Arjun Waney, who is also behind Ceviche at Coya Restaurant & Bar, above, and chef Sanjay Dwivedi, right. the vegetables, not to purée them. Zuma, Roka, La Petite Maison and The idea is to simply release the the Arts Club—rocketed to fame Hyde Park Corner end of Picca- of chili and lime, which were flavor of vegetables to the fish stock. and fashion so rapidly? It is par- dilly. It has been renovated in light, thanks to their tempura Pass through a sieve, add lime juice tially to do with Mr. Waney’s track what can only be termed dis- style), plus skewers of and salt. Keep aside in the fridge. record, but it must also be said tressed Hispanic/Inca style, with ox heart with parsley and roc- 2. Dice sweet potatoes into 1- that Coya delivers exciting and in- cast-iron gates and shabby leather oto chili. There was a deftness centimeter cubes. In a pan, add 1 novative for reasonable banquettes, making it reminiscent of touch about all these dishes liter of water, sweet potatoes, star anise and gently bring to boil. Cook prices, while ticking other boxes of a grand Havana nightclub that was heartening, given how sweet potatoes for 5 minutes, or for the fashionably thin brigade, sometime during the tail end of relatively inexpensive they until done. Refresh in iced water. such as being low on carbohy- the Batista regime. The noisy were (£8 to £11). Keep this aside. drates, plus 95% gluten-free. crowd are 30-somethings, with ca- The next two dishes were 3. Blanch Peruvian corn for 10 However, it is 45-year-old chef sually dressed men, and women in astoundingly executed, though minutes in salted water. Refresh in

Sanjay Dwivedi who deserves vertiginous heels. neither was wholly authenti- Danny Elwes; Coya iced water and keep aside. most of the credit. He has cooked But what about the food? cally Peruvian. The first was 4. When ready to serve, dice sea at the Michelin-starred Zaika, an There is the usual profusion of “papa seca con setas de invierno” grilled in his sturdy Josper oven, bass into 2-centimeter cubes. innovative Indian restaurant, and ceviche dishes, such as a delicious (Peruvian wild potatoes, wild which is fueled by charcoal and Season with salt and lime juice. graced the kitchens of the Ivy, Le atún (cubes of raw yellow fin mushrooms and truffles), which can reach very high temperatures Add Leche de Tigre and mix well. Caprice and the Greenhouse, as soused in soy, sesame seeds could best be described as a ver- with controlled smoke. Taste for . Now add well as spent time as the touring and cracker) offered in a sion of Peruvian risotto crossed Mr. Dwivedi says the dish is sweet potatoes, Peruvian corn, chopped reserved coriander and red chef for the Rolling Stones. Mr. small glass bowl suspended over a with gnocchi. Mr. Dwivedi cheer- more Spanish than Peruvian, chilies. Mix well, marinate for no Dwivedi says an early description larger one full of crushed ice to fully admits that there are no which has more influence from longer than a minute. Finish with of him as a chef who cooks keep it arctically cool. There was truffles in Peru, but that hasn’t Japanese and , but finely sliced red onions. “Around the World in 80 ways” also a hint of chili and citrus stopped him adding them, ending he makes no excuses. “To be hon- : When unavailable, swap sea best describes his eclectic ap- juice, which gave the ingredients a up with a wonderfully earthy dish. est, I have always loved blending bass for salmon, sea bream, proach. tartness that always makes such The other plate that impressed different ,” he says. “I or ; ají limo for your Coya is in the basement of a dishes refreshing. The other start- me was rodaballo (, ají am- want to give London something favorite chili; and Peruvian white large classical building that had ers were gambas (crispy tiger arillo, Jerusalem artichokes and that, while funky and trendy, is to- corn for fresh sweet corn. been empty for a decade, at the prawns with a different marinade chorizo). This succulent fish was tally different.” The Joyful Restraint of 2011 Burgundy say there are no bad vintages any- way through in London, the [ Wine ] more, but certainly in Europe’s are a joy to taste. classic regions, modern winemak- The good news is that both the BY WILL LYONS ing has made a huge difference. 2011 reds and whites have re- British importer Caspar Bowes ex- strained alcohol, which gives the In many ways, to- plains that many of today’s vin- wines a unique freshness. Quality day’s fine-wine lov- tages are better described in is even in both the Côte de Nuits ers have never had terms of style rather than quality, and Côte de Beaune. For reds, the it so good. Such arguing that those vintages that standout villages were Nuits-St.- has been the im- have been rated “great” in the Georges and Volnay. For whites, provement in mod- past, such as 2009 and ’10, are Pernand-Vergelesses continues to ern winemaking techniques, the merely those that have had the produce scintillating Chardonnay. adoption of measures to eliminate ripest fruit and the most power. The bad news is that, as in cork taint and the opening up of The 2011 vintage is a case in 2010, the crop was very small; and vast swaths of unexplored viticul- point. It may not have the power it comes before 2012, which, due tural land, that we have been Pinot Noir grapes of the 2010 but what it lacks in to uneven weather, was even ti- blessed with better-quality and on the vine, density and weight, it certainly nier. Coupled with demand from more interesting wines than ever Volnay, Burgundy. makes up for in charm. European and U.S. collectors and before. Yes, prices have risen and, Geordie Torr / Alamy Flowering was early in the increased interest from Asia, this in some cases, moved our favorites spring of 2011, which meant that will mean real pressure on prices. beyond reach, but more often than viewed in a plethora of tastings villages and vineyards is akin to although the harvest date was As Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, not, these have been replaced by held in London and is on sale now. solving a cryptic crossword. Con- early—in some vineyards the ear- proprietor of Domaine du Comte new wines coming onto the market. I can’t think of any other fine- sumers often complain that its liest since the end of the 19th cen- Liger-Belair, says: “Fill your cel- It was a point I suggested to an wine region in the world that con- wines are inconsistent and too tury—the grapes enjoyed a long lars, as there will not be much old friend, who worked briefly in tinues to mesmerize and fascinate complex. Burgundians believe a hang time on the vine. This al- wine in 2012.” To which I would the wine trade after studying viti- quite like Burgundy. wine’s character is derived princi- lowed them to mature more add: don’t forget to stock up on culture at the University of Cali- Its two principal grape variet- pally from the plot of land the slowly, helping ripen the tannins 2010, a vintage where quality, par- fornia, Davis. No longer involved ies, Pinot Noir for red and Char- vine is planted on, which is and fruit evenly. ticularly among the lesser village in wine, he says he is consistently donnay for white—and the smat- graded by a classification system The result is red wines that are wines, is even throughout. Stock surprised at the quality on offer tering of plantings of Gamay and based on the vineyard, village and strongly aromatic, possessing an up before prices rise even further. compared with a decade ago: “It’s Aligote—find an expression when subdistrict. But a highly classified attractive perfumed fruit and a —Email Will Lyons at actually very hard to buy a bad planted in its network of villages wine can be expensive and not delicate floral character. This is [email protected] or follow bottle these days,” he says. in the Côte d’Or, inspiring not just very good. To compound the prob- matched by a lacy elegance, him on Twitter: @Will_Lyons. The trick is finding an interest- the palate but the intellect, too. lem, Burgundy’s unpredictable smooth tannins and a bright acid- ing one, which brings us to per- In Burgundy, it is still possible weather means every year tastes ity that gives them power and haps the most interesting wine re- to overpay for mediocre wine. slightly different. A good short cut zing. In short, at this young stage, Online>> gion of them all: Burgundy. Its Such is the complexity of the re- is to pick your producer wisely. judging from the dozens of cask Read Will Lyons’s pick of 2011 2011 vintage has just been pre- gion that navigating its myriad It may be too much of a leap to samples I sniffed and slurped my Burgundy at WSJ.com/lifeandstyle. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 | W5 STYLE & FASHION

Clockwise from left, Frédéric Malle; his store at 37 rue de Grenelle; ‘Musc Ravageur’ by Maurice Roucel

Three great crimes of fragrance 1. Creating a fragrance for the image rather than the individual.

2. Trying to please everyone—when you sell something this personal you simply can’t expect universal approval.

3. Those individuals who create the fragrances which permeate New York taxis. For this I would bring back the guillotine. Brigitte Lacombe (portrait); Jacques Giaume (2) Frédéric Malle: A Nose for Business “Vétiver Extraordinaire” by Domi- Malle has a high-profile cult particular time, but if worn today hair fragrance over here [in [ Style ] nique Ropion—all regarded as following. He is far too discreet they would seem totally wrong. Europe] because it has 5% fra- modern classics. to name names, but given that grance in it. In fact, women have BY TINA GAUDOIN Unlike most fragrance compa- Uma Thurman and her partner, Fragrance is ultimately about been spraying fragrance into their nies, there are no blockbuster ad- financier Arpad Busson, co- seduction.WhenIwas8years hair for years at 25% concentra- Frédéric Malle vertising campaigns, no depart- hosted the Barneys New York old, I heard my mother say tion, so that’s just insane. grew up in Paris’s ment store spritzings and, even in book-signing for “Frédéric Malle “That’s a sexy fragrance.” I didn’t fashionable 7th ar- Malle’s four stand-alone shops, no on Making” (foreword know what sex was then, but by Most of the great noses are rondissement on overt bazaar-like displays of the by Catherine Deneuve) in 2011, the time I was 15, I was figuring still men, it’s true. I believe rue de Courty, scents. Instead, his glass-bottled it is safe to assume that they are it all out. I understood the basic this relates back to the idea where his bed- fragrances sit somberly to atten- all no less than stellar. principle, which I still apply when that fragrance is all about sex. room was formerly the bedroom tion in refrigerated cabinets, black I’m creating a fragrance: would Part of our job is to create of master perfumer Jean-Paul stoppers and white labels front When I set up my new company, I want to sleep with a woman something that generates the . His grandfather, Serge and center. Black-and-white por- XXX par Frédéric Malle, I was who is wearing this scent? excitement of other men. Heftler-Louiche, founded Parfums traits of the , or what interested in the idea of a ménage Christian Dior,andhismother, Malle calls his perfume authors, àtrois.WhenIsaythat,whatI Idon’tusethesexyfragrances Iwantedmystorestohave as art director of the fashion adorn the walls. And unique fra- really mean is that I thought it for the candles we sell in our home asenseofluxuryaboutthem, house’s perfumery, played a hand would be a great idea to create collection. You know why? I want a which is why they don’t look like in the creation of Dior’s legendary fragrances for people who are fa- comfy room, not a sexy room. stores. It irritates me that stores men’s fragrance, “Eau Savage.” mous because they are interesting condescend to customers and With this kind of heritage, it A great fragrance is rather than the converse, which is Ineverspendmoneyforthe don’t treat them like adults. would be reasonable to presup- not good on its own. the case with celebrity fragrance. sake of spending money—none This is not “Downton Abbey” pose that Malle might have some- [The first of his new fragrances of my fragrances are the same and we are not merchants. thing of an interest in perfume. It has to be worn by will be released on Feb. 20.] price. And I will use whatever But even his grandfather might the right person. it takes to get the scent right: It is possible to create a not have expected that Malle If [former Fiat boss Gianni] synthetic, non-synthetic, cheap great mass-market fragrance. would, in the 12 short years he Agnelli were alive,Iwouldlove or expensive, it doesn’t matter. Dolce & Gabbana’s “Light Blue” has been in business, stand the grance chambers that Malle de- to have created a fragrance for The ends justify the means. is that exactly. fragrance world on its head. signed himself (think “Beam me him. He had such a face, such Malle created his company in up”) suck out a fragrance after a style and such history that one Fragrance is like home décor. Agreatfragranceisnotgood 2000 after a career as a fragrance customer has “experienced” it, could imagine the perfect smell If you have little money but lots on its own. It has to be worn consultant (he was trained at the thus eradicating the risk of olfac- for him. of talent, you can make a very by the right person. A fragrance perfume laboratory Roure Ber- tory overload. (You can fill in a pretty room; conversely, even with is always a collaboration between trand Dupont). From its inception, questionnaire at fredericmalle.com We have a private joke in our limitless means, you will never the wearer and the scent. Editions de Parfums Frédéric to determine the fragrance that business that we have beautiful make a great fragrance without a Malle has been dedicated to work- would suit you best.) trash. In other words, no matter great artist attached to it. Often the big brands put ing with the world’s best perfum- When I ask Malle if he agrees how beautiful the fragrance we people in charge of perfume ers, offering them financial and that his stores can be a little in- have created, we trash it unless We have a duty to the planet who are used to selling diapers, creative freedom to construct timidating, in the manner of spe- it works for the time and place. as perfumers, even though no cat food and deodorant. How their fragrances. cialty jewelry boutiques, he is, he Sometimes these things have fragrance pollutes as much as an can you expect these people to Malle opened his first store in says, offended. “I have never taken years of work. Ultimately, empty plastic water bottle or a be fragrance experts? A great Paris at 37 rue du Grenelle with heard that before,” he says. “I one has to be ruthless to get it car. That said, I deplore political fragrance needs a good perfumer nine , among them the have recreated my home in these just right. correctness for its own sake. and a courageous marketer. first commercially produced ver- stores.” Oh dear. His mission, he Parabens, for example, have been sion of ’s “Par- says, is not to patronize. “I want Some fragrances are like an an- banned and replaced with other —Email Tina Gaudoin at fum de Thérèse,” “Musc Rava- people to feel at ease and uninhib- cient ornate, exquisite dress— constituents that we don’t know [email protected] or follow geur” by Maurice Roucel and ited,” he adds. perfect in a particular place at a enough about. I cannot sell my her on Twitter: @tinagaudoin W6 | Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. ADVENTURE & TRAVEL Photographs by Michel Joly for The Wall Street Journal Where’s the Boeuf? In Burgundy, Bien Sûr! We Went in Hot Pursuit of the Finest Version of France’s Classic

BY RATHA TEP Varenne, which used to have a Burgundy certainly one of the most delicious beef lishment serves a boeuf bourguignon wor- location, and co-author with her husband dishes concocted by man,” she wrote. Ms. thy of its sublime wine collection. Chef Fa- he classic French beef stew is back Mark Cherniavsky of, most recently, “The Child’s cooking show “The French Chef” de- bienne Escoffier turns out a rich beef stew en vogue. Library,” a survey on the history buted in 1963 with boeuf bourguignon as its studded with smoked , pearl onions T Boeuf bourguignon—the dark, of the cookbook. “In any wine-growing first subject, catapulting both Ms. Child and and braised mushrooms enrobed in a chest- rich, deeply flavorful concoction of beef area, it is a natural instinct to cook dark the stew into the spotlight. The version nut-colored whose flavor hints at the that’s been slow-simmered in red wine until red in red wine,” she said. that she promoted is roughly the same as full-bodied Burgundy she cooks with. just shy of falling-apart tender—was show- As for boeuf bourguignon, the dish is the one encountered in cooking magazines Ms. Escoffier (no relation to Auguste, ered with love in the 1960s, when it was a commonly classified as a plat paysan,or and at restaurants today, with sautéed but daughter of celebrated local chef André regular on the dinner-party circuit. In re- peasant dish. Lore has it that poor but re- mushrooms and brown-braised onions pre- Parra), proves the art of perfecting boeuf cent years, as several high-end chefs have sourceful French cooks used to braise tough, pared separately so they don’t lose their in- bourguignon to be a delicate balancing act. opened casual bistros, the rustic dish has cheap cuts of beef in wine to make them tegrity from stewing. Unlike her father, who marinated his beef in resurfaced on restaurant menus across the tender and moist—a conceit whose accuracy Before it gained ground in America, the wine for up to 48 hours, Ms. Escoffier said U.S. It’s also causing a stir in France, where is up for question. “Before the 19th century, stew had already been fairly ubiquitous in she skips the soak but slow-simmers for stellar tradition-bound versions share the farm laborers below the level of landowner the region of its origin since the early 20th longer than her father did. “If you take 10 spotlight with innovative riffs that incorpo- would have eaten meat of any kind very chefs, you get 10 different boeufs bourgui- rate unexpected cuts of beef and eyebrow- rarely, except for a small amount of ,” gnon,” she said. raising supporting players. Ms. Willan said. Beef and were rare in- Who wouldn’t want to verify such a The beautifully complex beef stew takes dulgences typically reserved for grand occa- can now be claim firsthand? I wound up and down the its name from the region in east-central sions like patron-saint feasts or weddings. found at practically every turn roughly 65-kilometer Route des Grands Crus France whence it originated. With its beef, More likely, it was winemakers with through the Côte d’Or, bordered by Dijon to wine and mushrooms—all abundant, local some means, rather than destitute peasants, in Burgundy, where it is common the north and the town of Santenay to the ingredients—it is as much an expression of who frequently ate boeuf bourguignon. “For in casual spots. south. I stopped to taste several versions of Burgundy’s terroir as are the area’s famed some time, vintners would put pots of the boeuf bourguignon, some of which seemed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. While a stew over the fire while they worked the lackluster, with ho-hum and ingredi- fish dish cooked in Burgundy wine and ti- vineyards,” said Eric Claudel, chef of Le century. Beef bourguignon can now be found ents that didn’t jump out. I also found a tled “a la Bourgogne” appeared in 1742 in Chambolle, in Chambolle-Musigny, and a at practically every turn in Burgundy, where handful of unforgettable meals. I learned the third volume of the “Nouveau Traité de boeuf bourguignon enthusiast. “But it it is more common in casual spots than that the best creators of boeuf bourguignon la Cuisine,” the first printed recipe for a wasn’t until Escoffier came along that the fine-dining restaurants. When chef David respected tradition, but still played loose similarly named beef stew whose sauce is dish was codified with exact ingredients and Zuddas ran the Michelin-starred Auberge de with the foundation, using different cuts of flecked with bacon, sautéed mushrooms proportions.” And then came Julia. la Charme in the town of Prenois, in Bur- beef like ultra-tender cheek, omitting flour and butter-glazed onions is widely believed Were it not for Julia Child, my happy gundy, he never would have considered or using wines other than Burgundy. to be the version presented in legendary hunt for the region’s most satisfying itera- serving boeuf bourguignon, he said. Now Hunting down the very best boeufs chef Auguste Escoffier’s seminal 1903 cook- tion of the stew might never have trans- the dish figures prominently on the menu at bourguignon in Burgundy is a terrific ex- book “Le Guide Culinaire.” pired. America’s collective intrigue with his less formal restaurant, DZ’Envies, in Di- cuse to soak up the region’s character as More elemental iterations of the stew boeuf bourguignon can be nearly single- jon, the region’s capital. The bistro offers well as glimpse some of the world’s most have been around for ages. “Simple ver- handedly credited to the food legend whose fall-off-the-fork-tender beef cheeks that fabled vineyards, including Chambertin, sions of beef simmered in red wine go way, 1961 tome “Mastering the Art of French have been slow-cooked for five hours. Richebourg and Romanée-Conti. It’s also an way back, probably to the ancient Greeks,” Cooking” held rhapsodic praise for the stew Amorerobustversionappearsonthe excellent gateway to pears poached in red said Anne Willan, founder of renowned that she encountered when living in France. menu of Ma Cuisine, a tiny bistro in the wine and crème de cassis, another local California-based French culinary school La “Carefully done, and perfectly flavored, it is beautiful, walled city of Beaune. The estab- specialty worthy of a whole other story. THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 | W7 ADVENTURE & TRAVEL BURGUNDY’S FIVE BEST BOEUF BOÎTES

The Futurist DZ’ENVIES Boeuf bourguignon at DZ’Envies Burgundy isn’t all bucolic vineyards and cow has an intensely winey sauce. pastures. In the case of DZ’Envies, outfitted in an orange-and-white color scheme and The Gold Standard stocked with iPad wine lists, it can be downright hip. Chef David Zuddas earned a MA CUISINE Michelin star at the inventive Auberge de la This 16-year-old bistro, just off Beaune’s busy Charme in Prenois—then chucked it all in Place Carnot, embodies the best of Burgundy. 2008 to open this modern bistro, primely Co-owner Pierre Escoffier takes care of the positioned across Dijon’s covered market Les front of the house, deftly offering suggestions Halles. Mr. Zuddas’s haute makeover of boeuf from the epic, well-priced 25,000-bottle bourguignon includes an intensely winey collection, while the chef—his wife (and Ma sauce that’s less viscous than most, and beef Cuisine co-owner)—Fabienne darts in and out of cheeks that practically melt in the mouth. The the kitchen. Her boeuf bourguignon is the super-sharp Opinel table knives were a standard-bearer, with moist, succulent beef and charming but unnecessary touch. alustrouslythicksaucethatbenefitsfromfour 12 rue Odebert, Dijon; dzenvies.com to five hours of slow-simmering, liberal heapings of bacon, pearl onions and mushrooms and a side of buttery mashed potatoes. Passage St-Hélène, Beaune; ! +33-03-8022-3022

The dish is prepared with smoky bacon and served with a tangle of noodles at Le Chambolle.

Auberge du Vieux Vigneron serves its boeuf with potatoes ‘tournées.’ The Twist AUBERGE DU VIEUX VIGNERON Sleepy Corpeau doesn’t have all that much The Cozy Charmer going for it besides its proximity to Puligny- Montrachet—and third-generation winemaker LE CHAMBOLLE Jean-Charles Fagot’s boisterous restaurant, The Elder Statesman On a narrow, winding path in the quaint housed in a 19th-century building that village of Chambolle-Musigny, Martine and Eric belonged to his great-grandfather. Regarded AUBERGE DE LA MIOTTE Claudel’s cozy, split-level bistro is the kind of for his ridiculously thick entrecôte Diners looking for a slice of old Burgundy place meant for stumbling upon on a cold, that he cooks over the dining room’s wood- should make their way to this former hunting drizzly evening. The large stone fireplace is burning fireplace, chef Sylvain Férré serves a lodge in the tiny village of Ladoix-Serrigny, set regularly stoked, and Ms. Claudel single- classic boeuf bourguignon as well as what he behind an imposing archway and courtyard handedly greets and serves all the patrons. calls “Escarboeuf.” He tops the latter with lined with stacked wine barrels. The Mr. Claudel’s boeuf bourguignon adheres to plump —another food associated restaurant’s atmosphere harks back to another tradition and stars paleron, a French shoulder with Burgundy—flambéed in cognac over era: Seating is around long communal tables cut that takes beautifully to braising. “It tender beef cloaked in a dark sauce made and the floors are large stone slabs. Fully maintains itself well, and doesn’t disintegrate with a 2010 vintage Burgundy from the aware that boeuf bourguignon is the type of when cooked,” he explained. Intensely smoky owner’s nearby estate, served with crisp rustic stew that tastes even better the next bacon flecks the stew, which is plated around hand-cut fries and a zucchini and eggplant day, chef-owner Catherine Maratray cooks hers a tumble of noodles. ratatouille. It’s a luxurious take on the dish, over the course of two days before serving it 25 rue Caroline Aigle, Chambolle-Musigny; and the escargots added a pleasing element with roast potatoes. It’s a hearty, hefty affair, restaurant-lechambolle.com of earthiness. with three huge pieces of beef and coarsely Route de Beaune, Corpeau; chopped carrots bathed in a rich and deeply aubergeduvieuxvigneron.com flavorful sauce. The expansive wine list, created by her wine-broker boyfriend, has surprising finds and modest markups. 4 rue de la Miotte, Ladoix-Serrigny; ! +33-03-8026-4075

At Auberge de la Miotte, the stew is cooked over the course of two days. W8 | Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL.

MANSION Singapore’s Seaside Hideaway Foreigners Flock to Sentosa Cove, Seeking Ritz and Returns; Where to Park the Yacht

BY SHIBANI MAHTANI property is acquired on a 99-year leasehold, af- or decades, the island of ter which it reverts to Sentosa off the southern tip the government, mean- Fof Singapore wasn’t much ing that property val- more than a tacky tourist trap or ues are likely to depre- aweekendescapeforboredresi- ciate after a few dents. Highlights included man- decades. But that made beaches, a musical fountain, hasn’t seemed to stop miniature golf and a giant outlet many foreign investors of American fast-food chain A&W. from buying holiday Now, the island is home to homes here. some of the most desirable real The result: soaring prop- estate in the world, as billionaires erty prices and increasingly look to park their money in the in- extravagant homes. Centre, Getty Images; left, Shibani Mahtani for The Wall Street Journal; below, Reuters vestment darling of Singapore. On Sentosa Cove’s prestigious Clockwise from left: A footbridge links to resorts; a -style bungalow By design, that wealth is con- Cove Drive, custom-built homes with a faux-thatched roof; a bird’s-eye viewofSentosa Cove. centrated in Sentosa Cove, a gated reflect the residents’ peculiar and guarded enclave that the gov- tastes. One home resembles an truding into the yard. Three more lately, the island has aimed to po- prices rose again in the last quar- ernment has designated as the ancient Egyptian tomb, its en- are modeled after tiki huts, with sition itself as a glamorous water- ter of the year, prompting an in- only residential area on Sentosa trances guarded by two life-size faux thatched roofs. front playground and draw tour- crease in the tax to 15%. Well-off Island. It’s also the only place in statues of pharaoh hounds wear- Jasmine Png, a real-estate ists with a bit more spending Singaporeans taking advantage of all of Singapore where land and ing headdresses. Another is agent specializing in Sentosa Cove power. The new attractions in- low interest rates to purchase sec- landed private property are open shaped like an approaching sailing property, says the questions she clude a Resorts World casino and ond and third homes as invest- to foreign buyers. Even here, vessel, with a wooden prow pro- fields—“Where can I park my aUniversalStudiosthemepark. ment also have to pay additional yacht?” “Why is there only space Sentosa Cove, which was for taxes on them. for one boat?” “How come there’s years a very quiet residential area ADVERTISEMENT Not everyone has the stomach no place to park my private set off from the rest of tourist- for Sentosa Cove’s high prices. jet?”—tell a lot about who is friendly Sentosa by multiple guard Real-estate developer Chris Comer, Distinctive Properties & Estates shopping there. posts and checkpoints, now has a aformerDubairesidentwhois In August, Australian mining W Hotel on its premises. A stretch bringing the Nikki Beach brand of magnate Gina Rinehart, one of the of restaurants and boutiques resort clubs to a site in Singapore, UNITED STATES world’s richest women, purchased opened up in December, allowing chooses to rent a unit at the two units at the Seven Palms con- residents who once complained of Oceanfront condos on Sentosa !"#$ %&'()#(&%)* !%"#+(& ,&$)#!#"-$ dominiums in Sentosa Cove for long treks to the city center a Cove. Though he’s appreciative of €14.3 million and €20.7 million, re- chance to enjoy gourmet cuisine the space, privacy and openness of #_*``:*;;; ./0123403563738029:;! 0< =738><>023 spectively, according to brokers fa- nearby. For those unwilling to the property, Mr. Comer says he .=1?8=738>@18A6B2C72DE1>8F31026 miliar with the deal. Seven Palms, leave their mansions, many of “could never justify” spending the .GHIJ8/>1K738E0FL7M8<0>7C8M7D7FN3 marketed as the only beachfront these establishments will provide money it would cost to purchase .ON0>3E>1K830476PJ76ON0II12M" E1212M condo complex on the island, has free delivery, as will the W Hotel’s property on Sentosa, worried that 41 units, including some with in- gourmet restaurants. it would take a significant hit in .Q;C1230PI82PF872*G1>I0>3" R83 S8238> finity pools overlooking the South Sentosa Cove first opened to value in a downturn, just as Dubai .C73T>8U>0I1F7J472?6F7I12MV>0TMN0T3 China Sea and roof terraces, all developers and individual buyers in properties did after the height of .WT863X0T68YS7I3712!6ZT7>38>6 enclosed in a coconut grove to en- 2003. The government-linked Sen- real-estate exuberance there. .[:;;6\]^]S0K8>8?/7310G>87 sure privacy. She joins mining ty- tosa Development Corp., the body For other expatriates, Sentosa coon and fellow Australian Nathan responsible for turning the island Cove encapsulates all the benefits !"#$%&'()*+,-$./01 Tinkler, who recently took up resi- into something more than a day- of living in Singapore, including 234526756888 dence in Singapore and owns a trip destination, offered buyers the seamless transportation to the property in the enclave. opportunity to build sprawling es- business district, sea views and According to Ms. Png, some tates right by the waterfront and palm-tree-lined walkways, even if !"#"$% &'()!"*+ &",*-). potential buyers—particularly enjoy a marina lifestyle. it comes at a high cost. Cora Wa- &;<<=>? @=AB 9C #;D;EF; G H;I: 1- newly wealthy shoppers from Many of the early buyers who terhouse, an American who has mainland China—come to show- acquired property in the enclave at lived in the Coast condominium ings prepared to make huge down €1.2 million to €1.8 million are now complex with her husband since payments in cash. Rich Chinese cashing in, as bungalows ranging late 2011, says that while Sentosa citizens make up a growing share from 650 quare meters to 1,858 Cove was designed to guard resi- of the affluent foreigners in Singa- square meters fetch anywhere dents’ privacy, the community has pore, according to private-wealth from €11 million to €18.3 million. evolved since she moved there, consulting firm Wealth-X, which Foreign buyers continue to with the grocery store nearby estimates that more than 400 Chi- covet Singapore property. Even turning the cove “into a village” !"#"$%&' ("))'*+ ", nese nationals with net worths ex- with the introduction of a 10% and neighbors greeting her by ceeding €22 million reside in the stamp tax on foreign home buyers, name on bike rides along the wa- -../010/1123 small city-state. sales of new private homes in Sin- terfront. It is easy, she says, to &4!#'5'/"467%89&:685 Across Singapore, property val- gapore reached a three-year re- join yoga classes, book clubs or ues have risen almost without in- cord in September 2012, and art classes with other residents. INVESTMENT PROPERTIES terruption since mid-2009, with private home prices up 57% as of early January. Singapore attracts foreign investors who see it as one 212 Acre Pristine !"#$"%&$"'( of the world’s most stable mar- Private Island kets. This month, the government on Tampa Bay, FL )*+,(*$"(#- introduced a new set of measures designed to cool the market, in- Gated Community with cluding higher stamp-tax duties Private Bridge includes: !"#"$% &"'()"*%(+# ,('%(*-' .* /0()+12 for foreign buyers and stricter Three Spectacular Homes: ,('% 3.40 50.6"0%1 7.)+12 down-payment requirements. Sentosa, the country’s desig- Approved for 19 more. 8+## 9:: ;<= >@ A><> nated tourist and recreation is- All for only $25M! land, continues to draw middle- Will accept home in trade. class Singaporeans to its public Gasperoni International beaches and scenic lookout 407-774-9434 points, just a short drive away from the city’s port areas. But THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 | W9 GEAR & GADGETS LENS FLAIR Stylish Cinematography for Shutterbugs

BY JAMIE EWBANK

tmayseemcounterintuitive,butthere’sagrowingbeliefthatthe best way to shoot video is on a camera intended for stills. The idea I first gained serious traction at the Sundance Film Festival, currently enjoying its 29th edition in Utah. In 2011, the festival’s top prize went to “Like Crazy,” a feature film by Drake Doremus with a $250,000 budget and shot using a Canon EOS 7D—a digital camera that goes for around £1,200 or €1,700. “Like Crazy” went on to sell for $4 million to Paramount. Since then, DSLRs have been used for everything from special-effects shots in summer blockbusters like “Avengers Assemble” to the season finale of Hugh Laurie’s “House.” The secret is in the imaging chip that records the light coming through the lens. We’ve been trained to think that, all things being equal, the pixel count is the most important part of good imaging. But all things are not equal: size matters. A 35mm, 12-megapixel CMOS chip used in a DSLR is larger, and therefore more light-sensitive, than a 1/8- Canon EOS 7D inch, 12-megapixel CMOS in a traditional video camera. The great £1,200/€1,220 advantage of a more light-sensitive camera is that you can make radical adjustments to the aperture, allowing filmmakers to indulge in what’s Improvised indie-flick “Like Crazy” become known as “bokeh porn”—shallow depth-of-field shots in which turned DSLR video from a filmmaker’s sharply defined subjects are placed against artily smeared backgrounds. budget-saver into a serious tool when Using a DSLR also gives you the option of fitting the lens most it won the Grand Jury Prize at the suitable to the shot, adjusting the shutter speed for a cinematic flicker 2011 Sundance Film Festival, and the and adding an external mike for better dialogue recording. All for a cost Canon 7D has had a creative cachet far more reasonable than a similarly capable video camera. ever since. It’s hardly surprising: the camera has full manual control of aperture and shutter speed, an array of recording and output options that match broadcast standards, and audio inputs for an external stereo microphone. Paramount Vantage

Nikon D600 £1,400/€1,600 While models such as the D5200 have held their own against Canon in the sub-£1,000 market, Nikon hasn’t been able to claim many famous films for these more-expensive models. Despite being the first camera manufacturer to offer an HD-video mode, Nikon hasn’t always been at Panasonic GH2 the cutting edge of this technology. £820/€850 But the recently launched D600 might change all of that. It shoots full-HD Although recently superseded by its bigger (and more expensive) brother, footage at a choice of two different the GH3, Panasonic’s GH2 still stands out as a great budget option for bit rates, allowing you to trade card filmmaking. It can’t claim any major films or TV shows, but it shows the capacity against picture quality. Audio versatility that makes DSLRs ideal for shooting video: it can be used with and video outputs allow an entire anumberofPanasonicandOlympuslenses,hasafullsetofmanual crew to monitor the quality of the controls for fine-tuning your depth of field and shutter speed, and an footage—something a solo input so that you can use a dedicated shotgun mike to significantly photographer would never need, improve audio recording. but invaluable for filmmakers.

Canon EOS 5D MARK III £2,300/€3,000 This king of video-shooting DSLRs has been on the throne for quite some time now, and Canon continues to provide firmware updates to keep it there. The next update will add uncompressed video output, freeing you from memory-card limitations by letting you record to an external hard drive. The 5D records and reproduces plenty of sharp detail and a fine range of tones and contrasts. This camera comes in several flavors, with the MKIII’s timecode support and headphone jack making it particularly suited for video work. W10 | Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS

Berlin Karlsruhe !NOTFORGOTTEN !ARTMEETSTECHNOLOGY Marking the 80th anniversary of the Otto Piene served as the first fellow Nazis’ rise to power on Jan. 30, 1933, of the MIT Center for Advanced Visual the city of Berlin has chosen to Studies, forever seeking correlations remember its painful past throughout and inspiration for his art in science 2013 with events and exhibitions and technology. While best-known for centered around the theme “Diversity his post-World War II art collective Destroyed.” Among the 100 projects ZERO and work generated by natural planned, “From the Collection in elements Mr. Piene has explored the Berlin, 1933-1938: Berated, Banned gamut of media, including broadcast and Burned” will showcase rarely seen television, sculptures and installations. works by artists who fell victim “Energy Fields: In Celebration of Otto to the Nazi Kulturpolitik, like Gottfried Piene’s 85th Birthday” investigates the Heinersdorff, Rudolf Jacobi, Lou German artist’s career with 50 works, Albert-Lasard and Anne Ratkowski, including inflatable sculptures, ceramics, alongside more widely known pieces drawings and paintings. by the likes of Max Beckmann, Otto ZKM Dix and Raoul Hausmann. Until April 1 Berlinische Galerie www.zkm.de Jan. 30-Aug. 12 www.berlinischegalerie.de London !LETTHEREBEART In these dark days of winter, an exhibi- tion exploring the visual stimulation of light can only be a good thing. “Light Show” will showcase works by 22 artists, submerging visitors in a variety of colors and techniques, from projections and oversized installations to sculptures of fluorescent lights. Works from the 1960s to the present, by artists such as Olafur Eliasson, Dan

Flavin, Jenny Holzer, Anthony McCall From top, The National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo/Borre Hostland; The National Gallery, London. Sir Hugh Lane Bequest, 1917 and Katie Paterson, will be on display. Hayward Gallery Jan. 30-April 28 www.haywardlightshow.co.uk Manet’s Different Strokes Kai-Annett Becker Otto Freundlich’s ‘Composition’ (1926) !SCHWITTERS IN EXILE BY PAUL LEVY When Germany invaded Norway in Essl 1940, Kurt Schwitters fled the Nazis he installation of the big Ma- !REALITY VS. REFLECTION for a second and final time, settling in net show opening tomorrow Like accidental explorers, the subjects the U.K. Previously a key figure of early Tat the Royal Academy is more of Martin Schnur’s paintings seem to Dadaism and Cubism, the German about crowd control than aesthetics. fall, stumble and open doors into an- painter spent the final years of his life One vast gallery has only a single other dimension or reality, which often cut off from the European avant-garde picture; not, as you’d expect, the appears to be just a reflection of the and immersed in a more personal and Courtauld’s celebrated version of world outside. “Martin Schnur: Vor- organic development of collages and “Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe” (1863-68), spiegelung” explores the Austrian art- found art. “Schwitters in Britain” show- which hangs (in a pleasant surprise) ist’s oeuvre with a selection of large cases 180 collages, assemblages and with other pictures featuring the and small paintings rendered in a lov- sculptures from this late stage of his same female model. Instead, it fea- ing level of detail and photo-realistic career, revealing works that, though tures the painter’s most crowded lighting reminiscent of Surrealist work. subdued in color and format, inspired image, the National Gallery’s “Music Essl Museum some of today’s most influential artists, in the Tuileries Gardens” (1862). Feb. 1-June 9 like Richard Hamilton and Damien Hirst. This will help the traffic move- www.essl.museum Tate Britain ment, as art-loving hordes descend Jan. 30-May 12 on London to see what the RA says www.tate.org.uk/britain is “the first major exhibition in the From top, ‘Mme Manet in the Conservatory’ (1879); ‘Music in the Tuileries Hamburg United Kingdom devoted to the Gardens’ (1862), both by Edouard Manet. !GIACOMETTI AND SPACE work of Edouard Manet.” “Manet: Alberto Giacometti’s inventive and Rotterdam Portraying Life” is also claimed to gloved fingers of the left hand are relationship with the sitter. The influential use of three-dimensional !SEEKING PEACE IN NATURE be the first devoted to his portraits. swift strokes, lacking detail. Near it, enigmatic Léon figures in several space will be the focus of “Giacometti: Despite his background in the German More than 50 paintings, plus pastels the figure of Clemenceau (1879-80) pictures here. Manet married the The Playing Fields.” Exploring the navy during World War II, the U.N. and photographs, make it worth is outlined in black and smudged in child’s mother; but it has even been Swiss artist’s work in the context forces in the Korean War and Doctors anyone’s effort to see. places. This reflects the paucity of suggested that his own father sired of sculpture as space, the exhibition without Borders in Cambodia, Thailand But the selection is puzzling, I sittings with the great man, but also Léon. Like nearly every work in this reveals the genius behind Giacometti’s and Myanmar, Jan Montyn creates think, because the conceptual frame- makes this one of the freest, most show, Manet’s real interest was the vision of life-sized sculptures and his work that avoids depictions of war and work of the show is slippery. Galler- impulsive works in the show. brush mark—of the trousers, table- -board statues. “Projet pour une conflict. Instead, he explores the natu- ies are organized thematically: “The The organizers say Manet trans- cloth, lemon zest, vase, coffeepot place,” which was intended to engage ral settings he has encountered on his Artist and his Family,” including his lated “portrait sitters into actors in and smudgy cat. viewers in a public location when travels. Working primarily in etchings, wife Suzanne and her illegitimate his genre paintings.” This seems to Even “The Railway” (1873), with rebuilt in a larger scale, is accompanied the Dutch artist has amassed more son, Léon Koëlla Leenhoff; “His Art- me a fudge to explain why many of the young woman seated in front of by 249 other pieces, including 120 than 3,000 works. A selection are on ist Friends,” such as Berthe Morisot these paintings of people are not ac- the railings, holding a book and a lap sculptures and various oil paintings, display in “Tolerance without Borders.” and Claude Monet; “His Literary and tually portraits. For example, “The dog and looking out, completely un- photographs and drawings from Kunsthal Theatrical Friends,” Émile Zola, Luncheon” (1868) has the boy Léon engaged with the young girl looking different stages of Giacometti’s career. Until April 21 George Moore, Stéphane Mallarmé; leaning against a table with wine, cof- through the railings, defies narrative. Kunsthalle www.kunsthal.nl “Status Portraits” of Georges Clem- fee, and a spiral of lemon The economy of the brush strokes Until May 19 enceau and other worthies; and fi- peel. He doesn’t meet your gaze, but that render the dog, the bold swipes www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de nally a section on the artist’s models. is staring at something over the of white that constitute the child’s Turin These arbitrary, narrow catego- viewer’s right shoulder. There is a dress, are as much what the picture’s !A CUBAN REVOLUTIONARY ries lead to some frustrating omis- sword and some armor incongruously about as, in the depiction of Mal- To coincide with the world premiere of sions. Why not also borrow the perched on a chair to Léon’s right, larmé, are the thick gold swooshes “Itali-ana, Mendieta in Rome”, a docu- Courtauld’s great “A Bar at the Fo- along with a black smudge, which is, that make up the poet’s mustache. mentary film on Ana Mendieta’s work lies-Bergère” (1881-82)—a “genre” on inspection, a cat (there are several Portraits? Splendid as it is, the show during her residence at the American picture that seems also to be a por- feline smudges in the current show). would better have been called “Ma- Academy in Rome, the Castello di Rivoli trait? Or the 1867-69 series “The Ex- Of course, the search for a narra- net’s People and Brushstrokes.” is mounting “Ana Mendieta: She Got ecution of Emperor Maximilian,” tive that explains the image is hope- Until April 14 Love,” the first large European retro- brought together for the National less, as is trying to explain Manet’s www.royalacademy.org.uk spective dedicated to the Cuban artist. Gallery in 1992 by Howard Hodgkin? Apioneerinvideo,performanceand As you walk around the sparely body art, Ms. Mendieta has developed a hung rooms, you see immediately DON’T MISS distinct visual language that embraces that Manet’s portraits rarely con- LONDON: David Hare’s “The Judas Kiss” includes a truly great performance both a mystical and a political sensitiv- formed to 19th-century practice. For from Rupert Everett (whose recent memoir, “Vanished Years,” is a hoot) as ity. The film will be screened at the mu- one thing, they all have an air of the twice-betrayed Oscar Wilde. He and Cal MacAninch (as loyal Robbie Ross) seum for the duration of the exhibition. spontaneity and freshness. This is keep their clothes on throughout, unlike Freddie Fox, who bares all as Bosie. Castello di Rivoli often achieved by a lack of finish: —Paul Levy E.W.K. Jan. 30-May 5 even in the most highly polished, Duke of York’s Theatre, until April 6 A sketch sheet with five sculptures www.castellodirivoli.org conventional picture here, the 1880 www.thejudaskiss.co.uk by Giacometti (1929-32) —Thorsten Gritschke portrait of Antonin Proust, the un- THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 | W11 GEAR & GADGETS Icons of the Road and Racetrack for a Bentley in 2012, when a [ Collecting ] model from 1929-31 sold for £5.04 million (€6 million); and for a BY MARGARET STUDER Rolls-Royce limousine from 1912, which went for £4.71 million. Eye-catching rare Mr. Knight expects prices to re- cars, motorbikes main high in 2013, underpinned by and even a famous demand from Europe and North plane will be up America. Unlike many areas of the €150,000 for sale in Paris collecting market, he says, collec- next month, during tors in emerging markets have the Retromobile classic and vin- played a small role so far, as they tage motoring fair (Feb. 6-10). prefer new models. Bonhams will hold its sale at the Artcurial’s sale will be led by a Grand Palais on Feb. 7. Artcurial Talbot T150C from 1936, valued will follow a day later at the Porte at €1.2 million-€1.6 million. The de Versailles, the fair’s venue. car shone in endurance races, Last year was a bumper year participating in the Le Mans 24 for auctions of rare cars, says Hour Race three times. And a James Knight, who heads Bon- wonderfully glamorous 1962 Fer- ’s motoring department. rari 250 Cabriolet is estimated at Bonhams set an auction record €550,000-€850,000.

€2.5-€3.5 million !This 1929 de Havilland Gipsy Moth was flown by Robert Redford in the Oscar-winning 1985 film “Out of Africa.” The legendary biplane is being sold by Bonhams. “It is exhilarating to fly in and it is one of the most collectible prewar planes,” Mr. Knight says.

"The star lot in Bonhams’s sale, this Bugatti type 54 was raced by famed Italian driver Achille Varzi at the Monza Grand Prix in 1931. Varzi initially led the field in heats, but two burst tires left him in third place in the final result.

€800,000- €20,000- €1 million €35,000

!This 1938 Bugatti type 57 C coupe, on sale at Bonhams, features coachwork designed by Jean Bugatti, son of company founder Ettore Bugatti.

€50,000- !A1911Type48open-driveoperacoupebyDelahaye €75,000 of France, on sale at Bonhams.

Artcurial’s sale includes this 1929 Model J convertible by American luxury-car maker Duesenberg. The Model Jwasahitwithmoviestarsandroyaltythroughout the 1920s and ’30s.# €850,000- €1.1 million

!Among the motorbikes in Bonhams’s sale is this 50cc racing model by Italian maker Garelli. Two of this same model set eight world records at Monza in 1963, including one that has yet to be broken. It features a second Bonhams (5); Artcurial (Duesenberg) set of footrests extending back toward the rear wheel, which allowed riders to maintain a more aerodynamic position. W12 | Friday - Sunday, January 25 - 27, 2013 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL.

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