THE OF NORTH ASIA Regionalized Chinese and Japanese dishes continue to grow on American menus. Plus, a look at the of , , and . by Jodi Shee | North Asia |

lements of North have Ebeen popular on American menus for so long that many Chinese and Japanese restaurants, dishes and ingredients— one might argue—have become part of mainstream American dining. However, with a renewed drive for authenticity in all things , chefs have begun to explore more regionalized North Asian dishes, from fare to favorites as well as dishes, ingredients and techniques lesser-known to U.S. . The similarities between Chinese and Japanese cuisines weave together only so far. It is true that both rely on and noodles as the starch and both use soy judiciously. Fermentation and are common to the broad regional swath, as are , says

28 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2020 Willa Zhen, food anthropologist and Japanese comfort food professor of liberal arts and food studies Katsu sando, the Japanese deep-fried at The Culinary Institute of America in , likely will have New York. a future on American menus, similar Use of the whole animal is common to the way Cuban and in both and , but in Vietnamese banh mi rose to fame years different ways. China has a place for all ago, says Maeve Webster, president of animal parts, including intestines and Food Matters, a Vermont-based food congealed blood and brains, which offer consultancy. With the upcoming Above: Katsu Sando, a popular sandwich made a custardy appeal, according to Zhen. with deep-fried pork cutlet. In Japan, the innards are less of a Summer Olympics, she expects interest focus compared to the hard-to-get-to in to spike in America in pieces Americans would otherwise the same way that did discard, such as chicken knees and during the 2016 Rio de Janeiro Summer windpipes. “When cooked properly, you Olympics. A typical Katsu sando features get a snap and crunch like a crunchy the pork cutlet, along with , tangy chip because of the cartilage and Katsu , and crustless milk . The tendons,” says Zhen, adding that this sandwich is double-stacked and sliced in is a more conscious way of cooking— half for a mouthwatering presentation. honoring the off-cuts and parts Webster also sees great potential for Americans often discard. Japanese , or deep-,

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Okonomiyaki from Gaijin in . made distinct with its , and , or crispy pork “candy” called . “Since the is pork sung, also known as pork floss or mixed with potato or corn starch, dried pork. He finishes it off with the the chicken is lighter and crispier,” popular, -rich Japanese seasoning Webster says. “Given the state of fried made with dried seaweed, chicken right now, it will grow quickly.” seed and . He makes his own is another potential sauce with Kewpie mayo to which he winner on the American menu. These adds . cabbage and egg are typically In Chicago, Paul Virant last fried on a flat grill and topped with year opened Gaijin, a concept dedicated and . solely to okonomiyaki. The -

Okonomiyaki is the most popular style version features a traditional, Photo credit: Regan Baroni dish on the menu at Xiao Bao flat cabbage and egg topped in Charleston, South Carolina, says with combos like , creole butter Chef/Owner Joshua Walker. For easy and corn; , bacon and bonito identification, the menu describes it as flakes, and octopus, gastrique a Japanese cabbage pancake “in a style and hot sauce. Everything gets a drizzle we learned while farming in Japan.” of Kewpie mayo. The -style For an extra charge, guests can add an okonomiyaki features layers of cabbage,

30 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2020 Left: Yu Xiang, topped with crispy pork "candy" from Xiao Bao Biscuit in Charleston, South Carolina. Below: and greens with sliced at Xiao Biscuit. egg and other ingredients mixed together, along with the addition of noodles for a thicker, slightly crunchy, omelet-like version. Regional According to Webster, the popularity of authentic, regional Chinese dishes will only continue to flourish on U.S. menus. The Southwestern province of is known for its spicier dishes. Zhen points to the Sichuan peppercorn as a key ingredient worthy of further experimentation by U.S.-based chefs. Contrary to popular belief, Sichuan peppercorns are not actually related to peppercorn, but rather, they are a part of the family. “The seed causes a tingling sensation in the mouth,” she says. The Sichuan peppercorn is one of the ingredients Walker came to appreciate when traveling for seven-plus months in China, Japan and before opening Xiao Bao Biscuit in 2012. These

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peppercorns create the heat in one of his in 1998 and opened his first U.S. location flavoring typically used in Chinese favorite dishes on the menu, Mapo Dou selling the street food in 2015. The and other dishes. He now bottles and Fu, which he describes as “a spicy, classic savory, egg- and mung- flour crepes, sells this product, including a 64-ounce Sichuan pork and dish with broad studded with sesame seeds, and size, that can be used to top bean and chili oil atop short rice.” cilantro, are typically topped with Peking rice bowls, , burgers, and The broad bean (or fava bean) and duck, other , tofu or vegetables. The more, he says. His spicy is chili oil partly make up the common crepe is then folded, rolled and wrapped made with crispy garlic, onions, chiles, Sichuan sauce known as . up like a . Bing is becoming so roasted soy nuts, and The sauce also appears in Walker’s Yu popular with young people that Goldberg powder with no or MSG. says he plans to target more college and With so many flavor variations, Xiang dish with fried Brussels sprouts universities, and he is already working ingredients and traditions throughout and . In China, the sauce was with contract management companies the countries and regions of North Asia, originally used for whole-fish cooking, Compass Group and Aramark. U.S. chefs have a battery of new dish but in the U.S., it is most commonly Within the past year, Mr Bing’s menu possibilities at their fingertips. The path used as the sauce for Chinese eggplant expanded to include bao, or Chinese forward may be to marry authentic flavors dishes, he says. buns, served open-style. “That way the with vegetarian, gluten-free and plant- Chinese street food bao is customizable, fresher and more based options for a modern approach. familiar for Americans,” Goldberg says. Jodi Shee is a Kauai, -based Jianbing, shortened in the U.S. to “They are also less doughy, hold more freelance writer and former “bing,” is a Northern Chinese street magazine editor with more than 20 years protein and fillings and are more colorful, of food-writing experience. She blogs at crepe that has caught on in the U.S. Brian so they are more visually appealing.” www.sheefood.com. Goldberg, founder of Mr Bing (yes, that’s One of Goldberg’s bing breakout without the period) in , fell ingredients, Mr Bing Chili Crisp, in love with it while studying in is a lighter, crunchier version of the

Left: Jianbing from Mr Bing in New York. Right: Mr Bing Chili Crisp.

32 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2020 FUNKY AND FERMENTED IN THE FAR EAST Mongolia: • Taiwan lays claim to the famously popular bubble , • The Mongolian diet is largely influenced by its historic ties however, more eyes these days are on tea—hot or iced with China and Russia, and by its cold climate. The cuisine is tea topped with a frothy blend of cream cheese and milk. meat-centric from a broad range of animals including horses, , goat, , cows and sheep. Korea: • In some Mongolian dishes, smooth stones are added • is distinctive in several ways, beginning with to conduct heat and speed up the cooking process. The little things—namely the little side dishes served with traditional Mongolian barbeque (khorkhog) uses hot stones and the little cuts of meat that negate the need for table knives. nestled among lamb, onions, potatoes and in a pot • According to the Korea Tourism Organization, pickling and over an open fire. are other trademarks of the national cuisine that is • Boodog is a traditional Mongolian roast like no other. The largely influenced by China, previous Japanese occupation stomach of a whole goat or marmot cooked in its skin is filled and the historical influx of European traders, especially the with hot stones, onions and potatoes. Portuguese, who have been said to have introduced chili peppers to the country. • The Mongolian version of steamed (buuz) is intense and spicy—a flour filled with shredded meat, • Korea is the poster child for fermented . Besides onion, garlic and pepper. (kimchee)—which, here in the U.S., has become more ubiquitous on both restaurant menus and grocery store • has unique applications, including Mongolia’s shelves—the country lays claim to other popular, fermented common, salted milk tea and airag—fermented mare’s milk. flavors, such asgochujang (sweet, savory and spicy red chili ), ( and paste) and kanjang Taiwan: (traditional Korean soybean sauce). • Waves of Chinese, Japanese and even American influence have helped shape this island nation’s cuisine. noodle • , a national Korean dish, continues to pop up on is considered by many as the country’s . American menus. The rice bowl usually includes vegetables, The slow-simmered soup usually includes pickled a protein and a sunny-side-up fried egg, all topped with greens and five- powder. , sauce and/or kimchi. • While and bao are popular throughout Asia, • Korea’s version of barbecued beef, , gets its flavor from Taiwan has its own versions. Hot pots host a wide range of the marinade that combines soy sauce, , sesame oil, ingredients, including , , dumplings, leafy garlic, onion and sometimes pureed Asian pear. vegetables, pickled cabbage and more. • is considered the “Taiwanese .” The steamed, bao-like bread is layered with braised , pickled mushroom, and ground , and then folded to close.

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