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RICHARD FRISBIE :: Braising Dinner by Richard Frisbie — braising, ri... http://www.gather.com/viewArticlePF.action?articleId=281474977570381 Close Window RICHARD FRISBIE :: Braising Dinner January 21, 2009 01:32 PM EST © 2009 by Richard Frisbie Tags: braising , richard frisbie , slow cooked , braised , meat , frugal , gather food correspondent , hope farm press , gourmet magazine I knew I’d been fixated on frugal, slow-cooked dinners, particularly braised meats, even to the point of mentioning ropa vieja in a November article on the truffle dinner at Barbettas. I just didn’t know I was leading a trend. The February ‘09 issue of Gourmet magazine is a braising issue, with recipes and techniques to make braising easy for everyone. This is timely, because braising - either in the oven or on top of the stove - renders cheaper cuts of beef and pork tender and delicious. You can even braise poultry and whole fish. Given the difficult economic times, who wouldn’t want to learn how to turn less expensive roasts into moist, juicy delicacies? No wonder it’s popular now! an oven-proof dish holding sliced braised beef smothered in Hungarian Paprika sauce Slow baking at low temperatures, or braising, dissolves the fat, sinew and connective tissue, the tough parts of cheaper meats, leaving even the coarsest-grained roast fork-tender. Critical to success is the liquid it is braised in. The idea is to create an environment in which meat cooks slowly, losing much of its moisture and, as slowly, regaining a mixture of the rich flavored moisture from the pan. The braising liquid can be as simple as broth, beer or wine, but is best when a “sofrito” of chopped sautéed vegetables is added to the pan to develop the complex flavor for the meat to absorb. You’ll need a “Dutch oven” style pan, something that can be tightly sealed, or use aluminum foil to contain and condense the 1 of 6 1/28/2010 4:28 PM RICHARD FRISBIE :: Braising Dinner by Richard Frisbie — braising, ri... http://www.gather.com/viewArticlePF.action?articleId=281474977570381 evaporating liquid. A crock pot is also effective, but I prefer a covered pan in the oven. You can brown the meat in it, sauté the sofrito in it, and bake in it - true one-pot cooking! A sofrito is simply a sauté of vegetables that is the base for many soups and sauces. It can be as simple as finely chopping a red onion, a carrot and a celery stalk, then sautéeing until soft and translucent in good olive oil. It can also have a pepper, a tomato and various seasonings stirred in. The Hungarian recipe I tried from Gourmet didn’t have garlic or celery, but the sofrito, or lesco as it is known in Hungarian, could have. The idea is to create a rich flavorful vegetable base from which to build your meal, so after following the recipe once to learn the taste, don’t hesitate to add ingredients you think should be there. Braising can also be accomplished on top of the stove. After bringing the liquid to an initial boil, a slow simmer - on my wood-fired kitchen range that means a “back of the stove” position - for 3 hours or so will return the same result. The oven offers the benefit of surrounding the pan with a steady heat, one I feel more comfortable walking away from. My only confusion with the Gourmet’s articles is that all the recipes seem to call for braising at 350 degrees, when all the available literature I’m aware of (my cookbook library) refers to an ideal temperature of 275 degrees. I ignored the increased temperatures as I made the meals, (350 degrees is not slow cooking!) and extended the cooking time as needed. The key to “doneness” is when a fork can pierce the roast with no resistance. After a few attempts you’ll find the correct braising time. Until then, perform the fork test until you know your meat is done. Some recipes call for browning the meat first - in fact - most do. But one, in the cookbook CLEAN FOOD , Chef Ric Orlando’s ropa vieja calls for the meat to be cut into ”fist-sized” chunks and brought to a boil before simmering for 2-3 hours. I can attest to the ease and excellence of his recipe - a recipe that, he says, "creates the most ordered item on my menu." So, while browning will bring out a richer color and complex flavors, especially when the pan is deglazed with the braising liquid, (or you are only using one pan) it can be eliminated. (But don’t do it!) Braised meals are best served the second day. It allows time to de-grease the liquid and for all the flavors to really come together. I know, I know - TWO DAYS! Think of it this way. It’s barely a half hour of active cooking. While you have a kitchen surface messy with tonight’s dinner prep, chop tomorrow’s vegetables too. Then, while tonight’s dinner is in the oven, brown the roast and make the sofrito. Put it in the oven when dinner comes out and then sit down to eat. Take the braised roast out of the oven 3 hours later and let it cool. Voila! Tomorrow’s dinner is basically done (see NOTE below.) This dinner was inspired by the Gourmet article and a fantastic beef sale. The locally owned grocery store I frequent offered a beef shoulder roast for $1.97 lb.. Gourmet’s recipe called for veal shanks. Since the intent of this article is to use a basic cooking technique to make a cheap cut of meat palatable, I saw no need to buy expensive veal! Braised Hungarian Paprika Roast In a Dutch oven, brown on all sides a 4 lb roast in ¼ cup olive oil. Remove roast. Chop, then sauté one onion and three Hungarian peppers in pan. Add a bay leaf and one tsp salt. When vegetables are soft, pour in 2 cups dry white wine and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Add a 14.5 oz can of diced tomatoes and return to boil. Add 3 cups of low sodium Chicken broth and return to boil. Remove from heat, sprinkle over the surface and stir in 2 Tbs paprika (not hot) and return the roast to the pan. Liquid should come about halfway up the side of the meat. Put in a preheated oven at 275 degrees and cook tightly covered for approximately 3 hours. Fork test for doneness. NOTE: When fork tender, cool, cover and refrigerate. One, two or three days later remove the congealed fat, remove the roast and set the pan on a moderate heat, mixing ¼ cup of sour cream (low fat is OK, fat free is not) into the braising liquid as it warms. Slice the cold roast and arrange in a shallow pan. Pour in warm braising liquid and heat through gently. Reserve the remaining liquid for passing with noodles, boiled potatoes or rice. Beets, steamed and buttered broccoli and carrots go beautifully with this meal. I opened a large bottle of Pinot Grigio and used 2 cups for the braise, leaving the rest to serve with dinner. The GOOD NEWS is I was left with a cup of very tasty sauce to use with leftovers, or with another meal. Richard Frisbie, FOOD Correspondent: 2 of 6 1/28/2010 4:28 PM RICHARD FRISBIE :: Braising Dinner by Richard Frisbie — braising, ri... http://www.gather.com/viewArticlePF.action?articleId=281474977570381 RICHARD FRISBIE is published twice a month to Gather Essentials: Food. It is a food junkie's take on growing, raising, preparing and - above all else - eating food. Together we’ll explore the trends, addictions, equipment and regional specialties that make up the sometimes mundane and sometimes sublime cooking and dining experience. You can keep up with my other postings and Gather activity by joining my Gather network -- I look forward to hearing from you. You can read all of my articles http://rfrisbie.gather.com/ or find them with those of the other Food Correspondents, plus celebrity chef content and plenty of other Foodies at http://foodtalk.gather.com BIO - Richard Frisbie writes culinary travel articles, is a columnist for his local newspapers, and is a regular contributor to the many Hudson Valley, Catskill Mountain and other regional New York publications. Online, he writes frequent articles for EDGE publications, GoNomad and Travel Lady, as well as Gather. JOIN MY GROUPS: Everything About New York State Travel/Food/Wine BOOK Reviews Food Videos Forum Join to see some of the kitchens and techniques you read about here at Gather BLOG - http://www.bloglines.com/blog/rfrisbie Where some of my Gather work and other things, primarily about New York State, appears. BOOKSTORE - Specializing in New York State books since 1959 http://www.hopefarm.com Comments: 38 Dena A. Jan 21, 2009, 1:37pm EST WOW .. this looks so yummy! Your not helping me ya know! I'm sitting at work and can't leave and I am hungry!!!! I will just have to daydream that I am eating some of this. Richard Frisbie Jan 21, 2009, 1:37pm EST The cover article in Gourmet is for breads and biscuits - slow cooking a braised dinner would allow plenty of time for some of these great recipes to rise and bake - ummm Good! Katie Scarlett (Site Bouncer Wanna Be) O. Jan 21, 2009, 1:59pm EST You brought me in here with your initial comment about ropa vieja (a loved traditional dish here), then you mentioned sofrito, and lucky me, I get to leave with what looks like a fantastic recipe for the Hungarian Paprika Beef.
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