THE TWISTER MAGAZINE Spring 2017

The Journal of the Twister Class Association www.twister.org.uk

Contents The Twister Magazine

CONTENTS TWISTER CLASS ASSOCIATION

From the Secretary 2 Hon. Secretary From the Editor 2 Peter Mulville 1 Richard Gardens

Treasurer’s Report and Accounts 3 HIGH WYCOMBE Technical Pages HP13 7LT Our 2016 ‘Best Buy’ 5 [email protected] John MacMullen and Ann Musgrave install an AIS receiver on Críonna Upright 6 Hon. Treasurer Fokko van Steenwijk sets up a Hasler wind vane on Kavirondo Mike Biglin A New Engine for Cabrach 8 Bosnowet h Martin Pascoe’s racing season was delayed by engine problems Higher Argal Budock Water Copper Coating Desert Air 11 Cornwall Fred Christmas describes the trials and tribulations involved TR11 5PE Cruising [email protected] Killaloe’s Cruise to Connemara 13 Stuart Cooper revisits the West Coast of Ireland Magazine Editor Draig-y-Mor 2016 18 Rod Webb John Curtis raced and cruised in the Solway Firth 5 Fern Terrace Meandering to Mariehamn 2016 20 The Street Bawdsey John MacMullen and Ann Musgrave return to the Baltic Woodbridge Oliva's 50th Birthday - 6th August 2016 29 Suffolk IP12 3AH Ken Layzell pushes the boat out for a birthday bash [email protected] A Testing Trip 30 Peter Mulville examines his performance on a trip to Cherbourg Email copy for the next edition to the Editor. Word or text files and separate JPEGs if possible. Rasmus and the Gunboat 35 Trevor David Clifton describes an adventure from the days before he discovered Twisters The Clockwise Route 4 (final instalment) 40 Rod Webb completes a roundabout delivery trip by bringing Speedwell from Norway to the Deben

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FROM THE HON. SECRETARY FROM THE EDITOR

I find myself Honorary Secretary of your Association in interesting times. Twisters, This is another bumper issue! You can see from the Contents page that Twister it seems, often keep one owner for many years whilst some are more fickle and sailors have been busy working on their boats and sailing them, but not so busy change their skippers every few years. I have valued correspondence with many that they couldn’t make time to write about their activities. Thank you to all the Members; sadly some have left the Association, having parted company with contributors. their Twister, because advancing years has forced them to give up sailing. Other Also on the Contents page you will have noticed some new names. Peter Mulville long-standing Members are selling their boats as you will see on the website. and Mike Biglin have nobly taken on the roles of Secretary and Treasurer, It’s also been a pleasure to welcome new members so welcome to; [in no allowing John MacMullen and Richard Blacklock to relinquish those positions at particular order] Scott Bishop, Douglas Davies, Iain Cameron, Egbert van Popta, last. Thanks to new and old post holders alike. Christoper Woolford, Simon Baker, Malcolm Lerner, Andrew Guilbert, Steve Binnie and Toby Mace. Rod Webb A special welcome is due to Chris Woolford in Queensland who has been selected Speedwell as owner by Casurina; we try to track all Twisters and the Association only knew of her possible existence because a set of plans had been purchased from Holman and Pye. Welcome Casurina. I have also enjoyed e-mails from Members and new Members in Holland, the Isle of Mann, the US, France, Germany and Scotland … as well as those more local to me and the Solent. Twisters are well-travelled. The new website is a small challenge. I wish to develop it; I believe that the site has three main functions:  To provide a source of technical information for present and future Members.  Through the Forum to enable questions to be asked and answered.  To celebrate the history and achievements of the Twister Class. This is an area that I wish to develop. Twisters are amazing boats and I’d like to share some of the more interesting memorabilia that has come my way. I again thank John MacMullen for his many years as Secretary and for his continued, deeply appreciated, guidance and knowledge that is helping to develop your Association in a way that, I hope, you approve of. Finally, for those of you in Europe looking towards the summer season – I wish you good winds. For those of you where the season will be closing soon – I hope you had a good one. For those fortunate not to be troubled with seasons, and are sailing all year round, you have both my slight envy and my best wishes. Peter Mulville [email protected] Contents

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TREASURER’S REPORT We had a good number of members supporting these proposals and they have now been implemented as of 1 January 2017. I am happy to report that the TCA’s financial position remains healthy and we go This then leaves me with one simple plea - PLEASE CANCEL YOUR STANDING into the new year with net assets of £12307.77. Our thanks go to Richard ORDER TO THE TCA WITH IMMEDIATE EFFECT. It will take me hours to reverse Blacklock for his contribution and hard work as Treasurer of the Association. I payments from the hundred or so members who use this method of payment. took on a very healthy set of accounts which have been prudently managed by Very best wishes for the season, Richard’s diligent stewardship over the last five years and we wish him well in his Mike Biglin, Treasurer future endeavors.

You may remember that Peter Mulville (secretary) and I wrote to you in May last year with several proposals which we were keen to implement: 1. From January 2017 the financial commitment for membership to the TCA will be limited to an initial joining fee. This fee will amount to a single payment of £25; thereafter membership will be free. For existing members, the 2016 subscription would be your last and you will then remain a fully paid-up member until such a time as you inform Peter, or myself, that you no longer wish to continue. 2. At the moment the TCA has two different membership years, the first running January to December for those who pay by cash, cheques or BACs and the second, from April to March, for those who settle their membership fee by Standing Order. From January 2017 the membership year will run from January to December for everyone. 3. To maintain a small amount of income the fee to advertise a 'Twister for Sale' on the Association’s website will increase to £30 and the cost of a burgee will rise to £15. 4. Finally, we would like the new website to contain details of the whereabouts of all Twisters known to the Association. In addition to the details of the boats it is intended that we also include the contact details of their owners, unless you expressly state that you do not wish your particulars to be revealed. Be assured that only fully paid up members of the TCA will have access to this information. If you do not want your contact details included, then please inform Peter Mulville at:

Peter Mulville, Twister Class Association Secretary, 1 Richard Gardens,

High Wycombe, HP13 7LT or via email - [email protected]

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Twister Class Association Twister Class Association

Receipts and payments for the year ended 31 December 2016 Balance Sheet as at 31 December 2016

2016 2016 RECEIPTS £ £ £ £ Membership Subscriptions 2609.18 At 31 December 2015 9911.04 Miscellaneous Income 10.87 Surplus for the year 2396.73 Advertising on the website 235.00 2396.73 Burgee Sales 14.00 At 31 December 2016 12307.77 2869.05 PAYMENTS Represented by: Printing and Stationery 39.43 Administration and Postage 125.68 CURRENT ASSETS Web Hosting 65.80 Bank Charges 15.66 Cash on Hand 7.93 Donations and Expenses Paid 10.00 Cash on Current Account 12001.65 Gifts and Gratuities 190.75 Cash On PayPal Account 180.19 Membership Refund 25.00 Stock of Burgees 160.00 472.32 12349.77 Surplus for the year 2396.73 CURRENT LIABILITIES Creditors 42.00 42.00 These Accounts have been prepared by Michael Biglin (Treasurer) and have been audited by Peter Mulville (Secretary) NET CURRENT ASSETS 12307.77

We confirm they are in accordance with the records of the Association. 12307.77

Michael Biglin (Treasurer) 01 January 2017

Peter Mulville (Secretary) 02 January 2017

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OUR 2016 ‘BEST BUY’ John and Ann install an AIS receiver on Críonna Navigating in fog is, I’m sure, everyone’s least favourite activity. If you are sailing you have a chance of hearing oncoming power vessels though the direction of the sound is another matter. If motoring you have little chance unless a ‘lookout’ can be posted on the bow away from your own engine noise. Over the years we’ve considered radar and discounted it on the grounds of cost, clutter and power consumption. The greater availability of a dedicated class ‘B’ AIS transceiver seemed to offer more though there was still the cost and power consumption issue. Besides, we have no desire to sail around broadcasting our location to the world 24/7! A ‘Gear Test’ article in Yachting Monthly caught my eye, in it the latest VHF DSC radios incorporating an AIS receiver were reviewed. They seemed to offer an ideal compromise. Upgrade our vintage Husun VHF to a shiny new DSC model and also get the ability to ‘see’ all approaching DSC equipped vessels. A visit to the Boat One of the sets useful AIS features is the ability to automatically make a DSC call Show enabled us to have a good look at both the Standard Horizon (YM best buy) to a selected target, so simple in the heat of the moment. Another is that, in VHF and the ICOM M506 (More expensive). I settled on the ICOM on the basis of mode, the set records the last 2 minutes of a conversation. This was to prove having used their kit commercially for many years and particularly because the invaluable in both Norway and Sweden when listening to coastal forecasts in their screen was significantly bigger; important when you consider it’s a pretty small respective languages. Repeated playbacks generally allowed us to get the gist of screen anyway. them! So, what’s the verdict? Well, fitting the set and wiring it up to the GPS output was So, all in all a winner, I don’t know why we didn’t do it years ago, except such a doddle as was programming it with our newly allocated MMSI number. In use things weren’t available then! the controls are easy to understand and intuitive to use. At sea selecting targets and observing their details was to prove easy and good practice for later. Crossing the North Sea from Orkney to Bergen we encountered dense fog banks with less than 100 metres visibility. Our first close encounter was with a crossing Norwegian sail training vessel motoring blindly through the fog at 6-7 knots. The AIS had indicated she was on a collision course. Stopping allowed her to pass ahead and no sooner had we seen her, than she disappeared into the fog again. The next was with a Norwegian rig supply vessel heading for a close pass. Called on the radio he confirmed that he had us on radar and would alter course for us.

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UPRIGHT still – met the much younger Bridget. Girlfriend Sue as well as Bridget were both daughters of rear-admiral Ralph Fisher. To use that nice expression: he had his Fokko van Steenwijk sets up a Hasler wind vane on Kavirondo eye on Bridget and subsequently deepened the feelings while he was developing the wind vane. Marriage took place on 30 October 1965 etc, etc. The firm Gibbs from Southampton got the production rights and in Holland the vane was imported by Kimman Nautic NV from Zoeterwoude. The price of the trim tab type was 600 pounds and of the pendulum one thousand. When I bought my composite Twister in 2002 there was a Hasler pendulum type SP3 at the stern. Then I had to learn everything I’ve just told you above and learn to operate the device itself as well. It is always a special moment when I engage the wind vane, shipping the blade with one knee on the console. The tricing line, the retaining pin, and the tripping line which has to guard the sweep. I always make that genuflection, if only out of a sense of history. Tiller The steering corrections required by the device as it senses the apparent wind are transferred to the tiller by steering ropes. Originally there was a stainless steel eyeplate at the underside of the tiller and two bronze snap-shackles made the connection. For maximum effectiveness, the servo blade should be kept upright as much as possible while sailing, which requires fine tuning. A small chain will do for this, but it needs a separate attachment to the tiller which I made in the following way. One end of a stainless steel M6 threaded rod was bent into a hook so that the Romantic other end could be inserted through the tiller. But a hole in the tiller is what you specifically do not want to because it's a weakness! Of course it's a romantic story, the story of the development of the Hasler wind vane. The Hasler - self steering device with a servo pendulum or a type with trim However, remember a moment that deflection of the tiller is carried out in a tab. It can be found on many sailing yachts, even today. Popular because of its horizontal plane, so one side is compressed while in the other is in tension. In the robustness and ease of operation. vertical plane between the two no stress occurs. In mechanics this is called the neutral line (or plane) and right there we drill. But how can we position a vertical “Blondie” Hasler needs no further introduction and neither does the OSTAR hole accurately in the middle of the tiller without a drill press? Transatlantic singlehanded race. Nor do Jester or the film “Cockleshell Heroes”, though 1954 has been a while. Telephone drill and ladle In short, and following Hasler's biography by Ewen Southby-Tailyour*, Hasler Drills are available with a shank length of about 40 cm that are used for passage came home after the OSTAR race in 1960 and had to find himself an income of wires. The shank can be held precisely upright so that the hole is in the proper because what happens to him. By means of a good girlfriend, Hasler - bachelor

Spring 2017 Page 6 The Twister Magazine place. The rod itself must not rotate of course and a crosspiece, which is attached The Hasler vane has now become noisy - vibrations due to wear. Is this the next with small screws put into the tiller, must prevent this (shown below). job already?

Eyeplate, telephone drill and ladle, all stainless steel... * “Blondie”, Ewen Southby-Tailyour, 1998, ISBN 0 85052 516 0

I wanted to do this myself without too much cutting in stainless steel and my eye fell on the handle of a ladle. The letter 'A' of 'stainless steel' on the handle served to centre the drill bit and soon the piece itself was cut out. Two flat nuts held the Handy Hint 1: There is a wonder waterproof impermeable crosspiece in place for the welder, a few centimeters off the hook and there non-conductive material that survives life in the bilge, doesn’t abeam. All that was missing was a tack weld, but unfortunately I cannot weld need painting, can be easily worked with wood tools and holds myself and do not have the equipment. self-tapping screws well. It’s called HDPE; otherwise High Betimes Density Poly Ethylene. It is best purchased on the web or, for a small job, a good quality chopping board can be chopped up. Andijk, the home port of Kavirondo, has a good welding company in the industrial PM area. They work hard and get up early. The other day at half past seven in the morning I was right and found a welder. He needed only a minute for this odd job and moreover, he wanted to hear nothing of a reward! Next time I have a job in stainless steel, then I'll know where to find him, and here we are at the end of my little experience... Contents

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A NEW ENGINE FOR CABRACH over tightened." "That must be it". So where to get a replacement? Everyone we asked had an opinion on what was wrong, "It's the governor.” (Where in the Martin Pascoe’s racing season was delayed by engine engine is the governor?) "Have you tried the injector?" "What about the fuel problems return?" "Water up the exhaust." However one helper suggested where to get the spare part. For Cabrach this year's sailing was a game of two halves. We left Weymouth in early June to head for the Falmouth Classics in a flat calm. So 10 hours of Monday dawned with a quick row across the Cattewater to Mountbatten where motoring later we moored up on a Dartmouth pontoon in the dusk only to wake they do Yanmar spares. Despite the engine being 40 odd years old, the fine filter up to find we'd inadvertently joined an RCC rally. The owner in front of us gave a housing is still in use. Not only did they have the housing, they had a good strange look as he replaced his RYS ensign at dawn. secondhand one. £25 lighter and a quick row back meant the filter was fitted and the system bled. No it wasn't that. Then was it water in the fuel? The tank does On towards the Yealm left us motoring, then sailing and back to motoring, until not have a drain. Could some water have collected over the years and now be off Bigbury Bay the engine died. In about 5 beats it just stopped, no bang, getting picked up? So up to the rubbish skip to find a container. Luckily a lot of nothing. It would restart very slowly and die in about 15 seconds. Oh well, the people these days don't drink the tap water. Back with a clear, sparkling clean breeze had now settled in from the SW so we sailed on. Where to go? Newton empty 2-litre water bottle. Off came the main fuel filter, on went the new Ferrars was close, but if we needed parts or an engineer was it too small? So we cartridge and it was time to inspect half a litre of best red diesel. Absolutely clear. decided on Plymouth, even we can sail into QAB Marina in almost any wind. It would have been a pleasant afternoon sail across the bay and into the sound, but Time to regroup, sit and think. OK, we needed professional help. The Marina context is everything. The wind was right behind us coming past the Citadel so recommended a firm on site, “Could they send someone to take a look?” “Sorry caution prevailed and the main came down early and part of the jib was rolled up. too busy,” understood, but what next? In anticipation of a tight 180 degree turn in round the QAB breakwater, we sailed Why was I reeling all over the pontoon? Why did I feel seasick on the shore? A close to the pier head on the Citadel side. This produced a whole load of abuse quick reel to the toilet block and I was vomiting. Perhaps it was the effects of too from the fishermen, "You ***** can't come within 50 metres, why can't you keep much diesel inside the cabin. As it was all sealed up as far as the engine was clear!" The crew on the foredeck tried explaining the situation, not a great idea, concerned and it had had about 2 hours with the hatches open to ventilate, I tried just more abuse. We left it with a "Thank you" aimed at the only fisherman who a little kip to see how I felt. I woke up to the sound of a text from my wife, but actually had to reel in his line and was saying nothing. Taking the QAB pier head couldn’t read the phone. Where's my glasses? I put them on, still couldn't read it. tight we immediately lost the wind, but were now coasting upwind and so could The horizontal hold in my head had gone, the screen seemed to be scrolling down stop. The marina staff had turned out to take our lines. They rightly get worried rapidly. The crew read it easily, so it wasn't the phone. So now I needed about people sailing in. We chose the first available pontoon, which of course professional help of a different sort. What if we got this engine running and wasn't the correct one, but for once we were lucky and the big motor cruiser was tomorrow we're off the Dodman and it all happened again? up on the hard for the week. I headed off to the Cumberland Centre where you can walk in and ask questions Next morning we started on the engine. The water was clear enough to see the about getting your internal engine sorted. A short taxi drive later and I'm walking, propeller, nothing round that. "It must be fuel, the engine was running so well still unsteadily, in past all these waiting mothers with anxious looking children. As before it happened." "Maybe the oil level was too low, we were healing over. The I queued there was a notice up saying don't come here if you're vomiting. I YSE12 is a horizontal single and the head is pointing down on port tack." What decided to ignore this. I can't have norovirus, can I? Surprisingly the receptionist else could it be? As it was Sunday “Let's see what we can do.” The main filter had knew where I lived as soon as I'd given her my name and date of birth and told been replaced in February so that seemed unlikely. Fuel was getting to the fine me to sit and wait. Very soon I was fast-tracked in to have a check-up. "No," I tell filter and on to the injector pump. "Maybe air is getting in somewhere? The bleed them, "I can't have carbon monoxide poisoning the engine won't even fire." I screw on the fine filter looks dodgy, perhaps over the years the screw has been might have the effects of glue sniffing diesel, but if I do I cannot see why anyone

Spring 2017 Page 8 The Twister Magazine should ever do this for fun. This is when you realise your age. Describing what the horizontal hold was to an early thirty something medic makes you feel like your grandfather. Apparently I needed more expert treatment and was sent off to Derriford Hospital. There the consensus was that it was either the diesel fumes or a TIA (a mini stroke). The symptoms are almost the same. I'll have to come back tomorrow for an MRI scan. I got back to the Marina in time to join the crew in fish and chips. Next morning bright and early I had my scan and was told everything looks normal. Back again to the boat to find the crew has found another expert and they're checking the feed from the fuel tank. The take off pipe was pulled up so it sucked fresh diesel above any water or crud, someone else has suggested taking a 5-litre tank of new diesel and doing the same. Good idea but no joy. I keep out in the open. I don't fancy another glue sniffing session. So now I really need a real engineer. The Yanmar agents just outside the marina came up with three phone numbers. The first doesn't answer (later I find he never does), the second was not happy that I'd called him in Malta and was costing him extra phone charges, but the third was working on a boat in the marina and would be with us in an hour.

A quick check through the fuel system, that was fine, at least we were right about New engine, note cut out for sump. that bit. Now on to the injector pump and the injector itself. The injector was taken off to be tested and passed with flying colours. Must be the pump. The A new engine. "What shall we fit? What can we get? Where can it be fitted?" The spares for the YSE are all down on the Lizard. Fishermen down there love the engineer gave us a tow up the Plym to Lara Bridge where there's a yard that could thing. Apparently it runs for years on next to nothing. So can they send a new hoist us and the engine out. Friday lunchtime the crew headed home on the train pump up to Plymouth (60 miles), please? "Ah you've missed the post it'll be there and I got on to the forum to ask for ideas. Peter Mulville and John MacMullen Thursday." Oh well that would still get us to Falmouth for the Classics, just. came up trumps with advice. A Beta 16 was decided on, the agent in Weymouth Wednesday was 'make and mend', Cabrach got a scrub, topsides and deck, all could supply within a week, "Oh and by the way you'll need a new prop. The those little jobs were remembered, but the elephant was still sitting underneath current Darglow from 2005 is left handed and all new engines are right handed." the companionway steps laughing at us. Darglow, despite being called up at 16:30 on Friday afternoon were very pleasant and confirmed that if I supplied the old prop and gave them 10 days they could Thursday morning the new pump arrived. Is that what they look like before make a new one to suit Cabrach (13") and the new engine (higher revs 3600 rpm, they’ve spent a lifetime on the engine? It fitted beautifully, and the engine would so 8" pitch instead of the old 9"). My wife was rather less pleasant when told still not start. So the engineer said it was time to get the motor out at take it apart about the bill, but kindly agreed that a boat needs an engine. on the bench. When I bought Cabrach in 2012 I said "If that engine ever has to come out it's not going back in. It may be reliable when it is running, but it is very Three weeks later, new engine, new single lever controls (the old ones were twin noisy, quite smoky and short on power". We'd by now given up on Falmouth and lever), new control panel (now in the cockpit) new prop shaft cutlass bearing (it were thinking about the Plymouth - Brest event in just over three weeks. was due this winter anyway) and new prop were all fitted. Monday morning the crew for Brest arrived at Plymouth. Cabrach was lifted off the borrowed cradle and back into the water. A quick check of the stern gland and the engine was run

Spring 2017 Page 9 The Twister Magazine up. Everything was working, so it was settle up with the yard, make sure the By the way, the next time I came into Plymouth was August in a friend's Jeanneau engineer knew where to send his bill and head off to fuel up at QAB. As we all the way from Gijon via Benodet. And yes, we had to take it very slowly in as headed to the fuel pontoon it was time to warn the crew that to start with I’d be the engine had very little power. What is it about me, Plymouth and engines? stopping in the middle of the channel. This was the first time I'd used the new controls and I didn't want to crash if I missed reverse. The marina looked so different when you had a new engine compared to arriving with no engine just about four weeks ago or being towed out three weeks ago. As before context is everything.

A YSE12 for €1500

Handy Hint 2: On a glass Twister there are a number of New prop and bearing through-deck fastenings to secure stanchions and cleats. The next day we joined the fleet starting for Brest. We made Camaret in 24.5 Traditionally the underside was backed up with a plywood hours and had lovely spinnaker run down Le Four against a neap tide at dawn. Of pad to spread the load. Plywood does not sustain a course the engine started just outside Camaret Marina. In fact it had to run for compression load very well; this is a good thing because the about 50 hours on the way home as there was no wind from Brest until we plywood will conform to the slightly uneven deckhead. This reached Alderney. is not a good attribute when it comes to tightening up the nuts; even with penny washers the ply can be distorted and, As a twist in the tail on the way home, I walked into a chandlery in Ploumanac'h in time, the fitting can work loose. A good solution is to to be greeted with a gleaming (repainted anyway) YSE12 on a pallet for 1500 make up a pad using one layer of plywood and one of euros. I'm much happier with the Beta, but I'm glad that chandlery wasn't in hardwood. The hardwood will take the load from the penny Plymouth a month earlier. I never found out what was wrong with my old YSE, but washer; the ply will stop the hardwood splitting and I hope someone hadn't painted it up and shipped it off to Brittany. conform to the deckhead. PM

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COPPER COATING DESERT AIR Portmadoc) gave me the contact details of a reliable blaster that they use and a deal was soon done to take off the 7 coats to leave just the original epoxy coat as Fred Christmas describes the trials and tribulations involved a base for the Coppercoat. Those of you who have read my previous reports on the comprehensive yard refit Eifion Wyn Jones of Blasting and Spraying Services turned up mid-season with his of Desert Air will be aware that one of the last tasks before launch was the equipment and very soon shattered the peace and quiet of the yard! It took much removal of old antifoul and its modern replacement. longer than expected due to the slow and meticulous way the coatings were Having reviewed all types of antifouling for the forthcoming launch, I was removed. Eventually after about 6 hours, the epoxy coating was revealed. sufficiently impressed by the favourable reviews and endorsements of Eifion then pointed out that things were not good with the integrity of the epoxy Coppercoat, the copper powder based epoxy system from Aquarius Coatings Ltd. coat that protected the hull as it had not adhered very well to some parts of Desert Air’s clear gelcoated hull. Eifion said this was a common problem he encountered with boats epoxied when new as either the gelcoat was not properly abraded or the release agent not cleaned off. Pointing out the areas of shiny gelcoat where the epoxy had not adhered indicated the former. So another job to do was to remove the epoxy! This slow and dusty process was achieved over the next few months (weather permitting) using 100 grit discs on a flexible rubber backing disc in line with Coppercoat’s preparation instructions. The result was complete removal of the epoxy plus an abraded gelcoat. We were now at the end of the 2015 season.

Down to the epoxy Although expensive, the thought of a one hit coating lasting 10 years or more was most compelling. So the decision was made and the hunt for a slurry blasting service to remove the existing antifouling commenced in 2014. Whilst seemingly an easy task, this turned out to be not to be the case. Desert Air is based in Portmadoc in North Wales and slurry blasters who have experience of blasting boat hulls are few and far between. Contacted parties either never Removing the epoxy turned up to quote, or if they did turn up to quote, were never seen again. The 2016 season started well on the weather front so the Coppercoat was 2014 quickly became 2015 and in hindsight it would have been more productive ordered. Using the Coppercoat formula, it worked out that the Desert Air needed to have scraped the 7 or so coats of old antifoul off by hand. However a call to 8 litres of Coppercoat, so 10 were ordered to be on the safe side, along with Partington Marine, a boatyard based in Pwllheli, (10 miles along the coast from thinners, roller frames, rollers, mixing pots, trays and sticks.

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Work now commenced on cleaning up where the upper edge of the boot topping would be above the waterline. The plan was to use the junction of the hull clear gelcoat and the pigmented topsides gelcoat as a termination point of the Coppercoat and the lower side of the boot topping. The Coppercoat arrived, in the form of pots of epoxy (resembling premixed wallpaper paste) pots of hardener and, quite heavy for the size, bags of copper dust. The application instructions were specific in that as the epoxy was water based, it was essential that it was applied in dry conditions and then allowed to dry without getting wet for a further 24 hours. This coincided with the lovely spring weather we were experiencing turning into rain every day on and off for the next 3 months! The weather forecast was constantly checked and then a window of good weather appeared in mid-September promising at least 3 rain free days and warm Finished job temperatures. I rallied the team, masked the skin fittings and boot topping lower The next day was sunny and 21 degrees to help hardening and the third day even line and off we went. warmer so no rain at all! We decided to move the boat props to do the 4 areas The mixing was straight forward and we aimed to do a side at a time. The first that had been left and after abrading the edges gave these 5 coats, as well as the coat went on very patchy but the video on Coppercoat’s website showed this to rudder, which was off the boat. be the norm. Second and third coats then started to look consistent and after the The weather held and all was successfully applied. On a roll, we then masked off fourth and fifth coats, it really looked the part the upper and lower limits of the boot topping and applied 3 coats of white The weather was perfect at 20 degrees with a gentle breeze to aid drying meant scrubbable boot topping to finish the job off. that it only took 20 - 30 minutes between coats and we had the boat finished in a In terms of materials used, we have leftover about a half litre of epoxy, loads of day, but very tiring due to the constant rolling action posture. We were a team of thinners, a bag of copper and a half litre of hardener so the job was completed two rolling and we started at each end and met in the middle to ensure an even using 9 packs. coverage. The mixture was stirred at each roller dip as the copper can settle out Whilst we have yet to launch, we have Easter 2017 planned, we hope the effort of suspension. will be worth it in terms of no more antifouling, but time will tell. If anyone asks The mixture went on very well with the rollers but some areas needed to be me if I would recommend this system to others, my answer would be ‘it depends brushed, i.e. cutting into skin fittings and the hull recess where the rudder abuts. where the boat is’. The drying requirements of a boat kept outside make it We found it best to leave the brush in the roller tray and use it as we went along difficult due to the UK’s unpredictable weather but undercover e.g. boatshed or so it was part of the current coating rather than to go back later. sheeted over will take the weather out of the equation and be more successful. An interesting point, confirmed by Coppercoat, is that it is possible to reuse the rollers for the next mix but we preferred to start a new mix with new trays, rollers and brushes. The roller finish was smooth and the Coppercoat dried to an even finish with the initial glossiness drying to a silk semi-gloss finish. Contents

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KILLALOE’S CRUISE TO CONNEMARA I think there had been an airlock in the calorifier (yes, Killaloe has one of these), and rather than take any chances I used a length of hose to isolate this part of the Stuart Cooper revisits the West Coast of Ireland system, but no hot running water for the rest of the cruise! On 2 June Killaloe and I crossed to Scilly, heading north around the islands to enter New Grimsby from the west side by mid afternoon, giving a relaxed evening and night before setting off for Ireland in the morning. It is only recently that I have woken up to the fact that this approach to New Grimsby is shorter and far easier than the alternative of using St Mary’s Sound and Tresco Flats. In the morning, after a good night’s sleep, I was away at 0730. This is an excellent starting point from Scilly because the exit is simple and you are clear of the Islands promptly, giving an early sense of progress. But easy progress would not be a feature of the passage in spite of a good forecast for winds NE F2 – 3. The direction fluctuated regularly between NNE and ENE, and was mostly just F2, so that the wind vane steering found it all too tedious and was happy to leave the task to me much of the time. Motor sailing was necessary to keep up a reasonable passage speed, other than for the last few hours (the log reports “Engine off at 0700, at last”) when there was a full F3. In spite of this we averaged 5 kts to complete the 160 nm passage to Crookhaven in just over 30 hours. I think of Crookhaven as the last shelter on the south coast before rounding Mizzen Head for the Atlantic coast. Under most conditions it is a fine and June – July 2016 sheltered spot with plenty of visitor moorings, but with no easy source of diesel for topping up after a long crossing under engine. A few years ago I was caught In previous cruises to the South West of Ireland I had worked my way as far north here in a bad westerly blow and, because of the long fetch of water in the Haven, as Smerwick Harbour on the north side of the Dingle peninsular, though each experienced a very unpleasant 24 hours. time I hoped to go further. From my point of view the area north of the Dingle peninsular as far as the Aran Islands has limited interest so my expression of After catching up on sleep I departed at 0730 the following morning, 5 June, to wanting to go further meant a significant leap – to at least Connemara. For 2016 I take the tide around Mizen Head for Castletownbere in Bantry Bay – a firm would give myself more time and allow fewer excuses. favourite of mine – just 20 or so miles. Although there is an anchorage within the harbour area, it is very busy with fishing boats constantly coming and going so I I set out from home, Fowey, on 29 May, with my usual intentions for the first few picked up one of the moorings available just to the east of Dinish Island and close days: a short warm up hop to the Lizard (this year the tide and wind would be fine enough to the harbour for a dinghy trip. Castletownbere is a very pleasant small to round the Lizard into Mullion Cove for the night), and then across to Scilly to town where it is easy to pick up diesel in cans and for all other supplies. This was wait for good conditions for the crossing to Ireland. But having cleared Lizard a Sunday so resupply would have to wait until Monday, which was probably good, Point the engine overheated and it was necessary to heave to and check the forcing me to rest a full day. system. It was obviously on the fresh water side, and although it cleared itself I headed across Mounts Bay to enter Newlyn for the night where it would be possible to fix any problems.

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Puffin Island From the visitor moorings, east of Dinish Island, looking east The following day, 8 June, I took a rest, had my spectacles repaired (I trod on On Tuesday 7 June I set out at 0830 in very settled conditions to be off Dursey them in the cabin), topped up with books from the charity shops, and had a very Head in time for the north going tidal stream to take me towards Valentia. It is fine lunch of crab at, I think, the Kerry Coast Inn in Church Street. possible to save a little distance by going inside Dursey Island through the sound. I have done so a couple of times on my way to Kenmare River, but correct timing is critical, the sound runs extremely close to the Island, and any swell can be problematic, so going outside was the easy solution for heading north on this occasion. Off Dursey Head, in good conditions, there is no reason not to stay close enough to pass inside the Calf and Cow rocks. The Cow, from certain directions, looks, to me like, a cow grazing. It is a fine run from Dursey to Valentia Island, with the Skellig Islands off to port and a glorious coastline, including Puffin Island, to starboard. Within the general area known as Valentia Harbour, I wanted to go direct to Cahersiveen on the mainland rather than use Knightstown on the Island. To do this, there is a choice of entrances: the first is between Cromwell Point on Valentia and Beginish Island, and the second is further east passing to the north Killaloe in Cahersiveen Marina of Beginish Island. I chose the first, having done so on a previous visit; the second entrance always looks particularly tricky. It was a slow entry and run up the The next target was to complete a longish passage of about 90 nm to Connemara Fertha River, with the tide ebbing, but by 1800 I was tied up on the outside of the – the NW end of Galway Bay. Because of tide constraints at Blasket Sound it made small marina, a day’s passage of about 40 miles. sense to do this in 2 stages: the first through the Sound with a pause in Smerwick Harbour (25 nm), and then straight across to the Aran Islands. On 10 June I had a leisurely start at 1000 with just 15 nm across Dingle Bay to the crux of Blasket Sound. The ideal arrival time at the Sound for the day was 1330.

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For my departure from Valentia Harbour I used the easterly entrance and Sruthan Quay was a safe place to leave the dinghy, and from there it was not too although I had no significant difficulties it does require more care than the far to walk to the village of Carraroe where there was a decent shop for food westerly one. The Sound was straightforward, and I anchored in Smerwick at supplies. I was also able to take a bus to Galway, maybe 20 miles away, following about 1600 for a few hours. After an evening meal I departed at 2130, just before a route that gave a good view of the countryside. When researching the area I last light, which would give me a fair tide north for the next 6 hours and an arrival gave thought to using Galway Marina right in the centre of the city. However, time for the Aran Islands during daylight next morning. The wind was a light south having seen the marina from the land side, I am glad I did not bother – it looked easterly, so motoring was necessary. to be busy and possibly noisy, and of course it takes you a long way east. After a slow passage, I passed through Foul Sound between Inishman and My log has not recorded the weather conditions, but there were some strong Inisheer, the easterly 2 islands, at 1030, and then headed across to Cashla Bay, a westerly’s that kept me at Cashla Bay until 17 June when it was possible to head further 12 nm, on the mainland. Cashla Bay has 2 possible places for a visitor: on west for Roundstone Bay, about 25 nm, using the Inner Passage. The wind was the east side, Rossaveal Harbour which has a small marina but is probably a busy pretty much on the nose but off the land giving easy sea conditions, and by 1445 I place with fishing boats and high speed ferries coming and going, and on the was moored to a visitor buoy in a small bay on the island of Inishnee half a mile SE west, off Sruthan Quay, an anchorage with at least one visitor mooring amongst of Roundstone Quay. Visitor moorings generally seem an attractive proposition, the small boats. I opted for the peace offered by the anchorage. but, in practice, not always the best solution as is the case here.

From the cove, Kilcartron Point

A couple of days of strong southerly winds were forecast so on the morning of 18 A Galway Hooker sailing onto a mooring June I motored around to the east side of Inishnee to a small anchorage in the Another advantage of the small boat moorings is being in the company of those cove in the middle of the island, just south of Kilcartron Pt. classic working boats, the Galway Hookers. As far as I can tell they are only used This required some care to clear the bar across the entrance to the cove, but once now for racing, but they are kept in a beautiful state of repair and present a inside we were well protected, and it is a very quiet spot. It is worth noting that glorious sight when under sail. An important regatta was held on Sat 11 Jun in the there are several very fine anchorages within this complex of bays and islands, to next bay to the west (Greatman’s Bay) so there was plenty of movement in the suit almost any wind conditions. moorings. After 48 hours I was able to return to Roundstone Bay, but this time I anchored just off Roundstone Quay to suit the SW – W winds, and for the convenience.

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Some care is necessary on the approach because of shallow water. The village is days, but blue skies encouraged me to explore the beautiful coast and very pleasant with good places to eat, an excellent pottery to visit and fuel pumps countryside from ashore. Kieran, the very kind marina supervisor, let me use the at the Post Office. And I should know – I was held up here by strong winds for 5 marina bicycle during my stay. An equally kind dentist in the local practice sorted days. Sadly, this delay prevented me from moving further north; it was now time out a troubling problem. to head south and make use of easier NW weather conditions.

Skellig Islands On 3 July all was well for a longish day sail, and I set off early, at 0350, to give a fair tide out of the harbour waters, with the intention of rounding Mizen Head. At this time of year it is rare to see another boat under sail, so this morning I was intrigued to see one heading SW, out through the Skellig Islands and on over the Roundstone Quay horizon – where was she headed? Rather than staging in Smerwick Harbour, for the return I hoped to pass directly through Blasket Sound into Dingle Bay in one hop. For 26 June, the target time for Blasket Sound was 1930, and the distance to go was approximately 70 nm, of which the first few would be relatively slow passing through the islands and rocks into clear water; I departed at 0330. Foolishly I had not checked the tide – it was just after low water and I barely missed running aground leaving the anchorage. Once clear of the west end of the Aran Islands the wind was fair and Killaloe reached at 5 plus kts such that we were in striking distance of the Sound a little on the early side and it was necessary to slow down. We passed through the narrows at 1900 with some tide still running against us. From here we took the easiest option and headed for Ventry Harbour – still 3 hours away – and anchored off Coon Pier at 2200 just as daylight faded. Long summer days are a blessing. In the morning I was away at 0830 to cross Dingle Bay and, once again, enter Valentia Harbour for Cahersiveen. More strong winds would keep me here for 5 The Cow

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The tide was foul and strong off Dursey, and speed over the ground dropped significantly for a time, but as Mizen Hd approached it turned in my favour for the remainder of the passage into Crookhaven; we were secured to a buoy by 1700 having covered 50 nm. With a little determination it is possible, from Crookhaven, to buy fuel in cans. It takes a dinghy trip into the far NE corner of the haven, where there is a convenient tiny jetty to tie up, followed by a walk of a mile and a half to the village of Goleen where the pub has pumps. And timing can be important – during springs the dinghy may dry out at the jetty – but with patience and effort it can be done. In very settled conditions it is possible to go all the way to Goleen by dinghy (see the ICC Sailing Directions, though the fuel at the pub is not mentioned). I topped up my 2 spare 10 litre cans and, in spite of a great deal of motoring, did not have to bother again on the way home to Fowey. I set out for Scilly on 5 July at 0645. It was to be another frustrating passage with A daily visit by dolphins light winds (F2 – 3) from the west – effectively a following wind – requiring engine power until the last few hours when a decent beam breeze picked up; it caught me out by blowing my Tilley hat off and over board, but a well executed HOB saved the day. We were settled on a visitor mooring in New Grimsby by 1630 on Handy Hint 3: Hardwood is expensive. Wood recycles well. 6 July, With modern glues smaller pieces can be laminated. I have found excellent hardwood from: an old chemists [real Throughout the cruise, there was hardly a day without a visit by dolphins. I mahogany battens – the workman was delighted that I expected to be on deck to greet them, to show my appreciation, but there were would take away the waste for free] a patio door sill those days when something else seemed more important, and then I felt a let [excellent mahogany like wood – donated by a friend in the down by not giving them my time. glazing trade] the old bar top from my local pub [taken from From New Grimsby it was a straight forward run home with an overnight stop on the skip and good for interior work that’s not on display] and the Helford River. The tide was foul off Dodman Point but I found an unexpected a set of old teak doors which were purchased for £10.00. It’s eddy, from as early as a mile distance, by keeping a little inshore of the rhumb all been cut up with nothing more than a circular saw and a line but not hooking right into the bay. power plane…after first very careful checking for nails and screws. PM Killaloe was back on her mooring at 1630 on 8 July, having covered approximately 720 nm and seen a little of Connemara – a very beautiful part of Ireland.

Contents

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DRAIG-y-MOR 2016 of the Twister Class has been maintained in the Solway Firth, where we seem to have had a lot of strong winds this summer. John Curtis raced and cruised in the Solway Firth I try to avoid tacking into them, but on Tuesday 9th August I was fed up with walking in the Cumbrian Fells, so set off for Kircudbright (20 Miles) with a WNW wind, force 3 or 4, more or less on the nose. I was expecting it to be more northerly and be close hauled on one tack for most of the way, but we had to make several tacks, the first one to clear the wind farm at Robin Rigg. We had reefs in main and jib (so approximately the standard Twister sail area) and the motor going at half throttle to help us through the wind over the tide chop.

Port Logan Harbour entrance Our Cruise in June was not much different from previous years, the highlight being a visit to the Titanic exhibition at Belfast. We went by train from Carrick Fergus (3 nights for the price of 2), but there are good pontoon berths near the exhibition. On Saturday 25th June we sailed in the Presidents Cup Race from Whitehaven. We were 5th over the line, out of 12 starters, the fourth being a Contessa 32 and the sixth was a Nicholson 32!

On 26th was the Lady Helm Race, when I joined Steve and Julie Coulter in their Carrick Fergus showing Club House Twister Charlie. The wind was westerly 4, and with full sail we had the rail in the water for much of the time when going to windward. Julie did well on the helm We left at 06.00 hours, a good hour after high water, to get plenty of help from and we finished the course in good time. Where we came I never found out, but the tide. About 5 miles from Kircudbright Bay I began to wonder if we would several yachts had retired as it was quite rough. make it before the tide changed, but we just made it in time, anchoring off a little beach on the west side of the bay, just above Ross Bay. A good anchorage in neap On Sunday 3rd July, at Maryport in a westerly force 4-5, with one reef in the main tides and well sheltered from the WNW wind. It had been a tedious trip, but and two in the jib when close hauled, we were second over the line out of ten luckily the firing range was not in use, so we could go close inshore off Abbey starters. The course was three and a half nautical miles northwards to the Solway Head. bouy, then back to the start line off Maryport. On Sunday 6th August with 2 reefs in the main (Draig-y-Mor has the Mediterranean rig), and 2 in the jib when Further up Kircudbright Bay, on the west side is Frenchman’s rock. Once this is coming back against the WSW wind, we again raced to the Solway buoy and were covered there is enough water in the channel to go up to the town, where we the only ones to cross the finish line, due to the rough conditions. So the honour arrived at 15.00 hours. We had a few days in and around Kircudbright, making use of our bus passes while the wind died down and then picked up again.

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swells were fairly regular, with a big one every 5 minutes. Two of these hit Draig-y Mor on the beam, the tops joining us in the cockpit! The windvane was working Belfast Quarter showing the Nomadic and the Titanic museum but needed assistance because of the swells. We got to Maryport Roads in a record 3 hours, an average of 6 knots by log. On Friday 12th August the forecast was SW 5-7, but on a broad reach and the wind with the tide, it might be OK for a return trip to Maryport. Leaving the bay All very well but the marina gate would not open for another hour! Heaving-to about an hour after low water, this usually takes about 4 hours. So at 07.00 we outside was a possibility, something we have done before though anchoring in anchored in the mouth of Ross Bay, sheltered from the wind by the high ground the outer harbour would be much more comfortable. But the outer harbour dries and trees of Manor Point, to wait for the tide to start flooding. and there might not have been enough water at this stage of the tide. Soon afterwards Ross Bay was covered with a mass of small white horses and the Careful observation of the water level on the sewage outfall beacon, outside the strain on the anchor chain was huge. We were anchored in 5 metres with 20 harbour, showed the level to be nearly up to the platform between the tripod metres of chain out, the strain being taken by the anchor hook, transferred to the legs, so we decided to give it a go. We crept slowly between the piers, with foredeck cleat by a short rope. Using the anchor winch I took in enough chain to mainsail still set, engine going, and eyes on the echo sounder, ready to head out disengage the hook, before letting out another 20 metres, little by little, using the again if necessary. But all was well. We anchored close by the marina gate, with brake on the winch to keep control. Finally, I replaced the chain hook and made two and a half metres on the sounder and 10 metres of chain out, at 17.00 hours. fast on the foredeck cleat. In these conditions there is no way I could have done Time to put the kettle on for tea. this by hand. It proved to be a very good holding as I had to hack the clay off the anchor with the boat hook before bringing the anchor on deck. Our last sail of the season, but a memorable one. How many more will there be? At 77 years of age the time might be approaching when I will have to “Swallow We set sail at 13.30, steering 120 degrees until clear of the wind farm, then 105 the Anchor” and find a new captain for Draig-y-Mor. degrees for Maryport. The wind farm is built on the Robin Rigg and Dumroof Banks where seas would be breaking heavily. We had 2 reefs in the main and 2 reefs (rolled above the pulpit) in the jib. The course was a broad reach and the Contents

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MEANDERING TO MARIEHAMN 2016 on the pontoon we made amazingly good progress. It was aluminium, not iron! Once the threads on the elbow were cleaned up we tried re-assembly. So far so John MacMullen and Ann Musgrave return to the Baltic good, we could get about 3 turns and the elbow was starting to lose its ‘wobble’. Next, how to secure it? I’m a great believer in modern materials and we just happened to have a tube of high strength anaerobic thread sealant on board. Milford Haven to Bergen After carefully cleaning and degreasing the threads they were anointed with a generous coating before carefully reassembling the elbow in the correct Last summer we kept an 11-year old promise. We’d always said that we would alignment. Resisting all temptation to touch or even look, the engine box was return to the Baltic though we hadn’t intended it to take quite so long closed until the next morning. After breakfast, a first tentative ‘feel’ of the elbow, Living in West Wales gave us the option, or maybe dilemma, of whether to head all good. A vigorous feel, solid, still good. Run the engine, No problem, even off North about or South about. The latter offered a shorter route but involved better! I should add that this ‘workaround’ (I hesitate to call it a repair) has lasted the southern N. Sea, not my favourite area. The northern route would enable us for another 100+ hours of motoring and was still sound when Críonna was laid up to take in much more of the Norwegian and Swedish coasts. As it happened the in Mariehamn. extended weather forecast was the deciding factor, strong winds in the Channel and lighter to the north, though how much lighter we were to find out. Departing Milford Haven in late May the weather was glorious but the wind wasn’t. Mostly around F1-2 and always with a hint of north, not much sailing but plenty of motor sailing. We had hoped to make Peel in the Isle of Man but were headed off and after a 36 hour passage berthed in Ardglass at 2030 to be greeted by Fred, the octogenarian marina master and his dog Ben. The next day was fine but after all that motoring we couldn’t face the early start we’d need to carry the tide up the coast so instead it was ‘ship’s business’, shopping and a good walk. An early start rewarded us with a nice little breeze, just enough to almost make it to Donaghadee Sound before the tide turned. Luck was on our side though as the wind freshened enough for us to punch the first of the foul tide through the narrows and bear away to Bangor. Repaired exhaust Leaving Bangor the next day the wind held until Ballygalley Head was astern. Then No reason not to continue northwards. Motor sailing for 4 hours brought Sanda it dropped leaving us to motor the last hour to Glenarm in glassy conditions. Just Island abeam, far to the east. Then the wind filled in from the WNW and we sailed as we were berthing Ann, who was on the helm, called that the engine was most of the way to the Ardmore Islands in glorious sunshine. A beautiful evening making a funny noise and stopped it. All secure alongside, it was time to and peaceful night in the company of dozens of seals. investigate. Oh dear ……. the exhaust elbow had parted company from the back of Over the next week the wind was to prove to be frustratingly light and variable. A the heat exchanger giving us the prospect of an extended stay in Glenarm. Closer good spinnaker run brought us past Jura and to the anchorage in Carsaig Bay. inspection revealed that the threaded stub had fractured. Removing the elbow Watch out for the rocks here though! Onwards then through Cuan Sound, exciting showed that there were a few threads left on the heat exchanger side of the stub, with the tide running hard, to Puilladobhrain where we enjoyed a pub meal with perhaps enough to re-use if we could extract the other remains from the bronze John and Sara (ex Figheadair) before motoring the next day under a scorching sun elbow. The stub looked like a 1⅟ inch BSP iron fitting and we were resigned to a 4 to Oban marina on Kerera. There was no need to worry about getting a space, the long session with a hacksaw blade to cut it into 3 pieces to get it out. Sawing away place was half empty and looking for a new owner. No bar or food ashore, no

Spring 2017 Page 20 The Twister Magazine diesel and worse still, no evening ferry to Oban. Luckily the exhaust temperature Rhea, passed the Skye bridge, and finally picked up a mooring under sail in sensor we’d ordered in Glenarm arrived the following day allowing us to escape Plockton to rowdy applause from the well lubricated crew of a nearby Irish yacht. the heat and enjoy a good sail up to Loch Aline where we celebrated Ann’s birthday. A late start to catch the tide allowed the rain to start, killing the wind completely and leaving us to motor all the way to Tobermory. Tanks refilled and shopping done we decided to press on as the wind had filled in from the NW. Approaching Ardnamurchan the glassy calm returned leaving us little option but to motor to a late finish in Eigg.

Pol Nam Partan, Eigg Onwards to Rona, courtesy of the ‘iron topsail’. No sooner had we arrived than the rain started. We rowed ashore, walked up to the saddle and ended up having good ‘craic’ with Bill, the warden, whilst buying his venison steaks and sampling the ‘Rona’ whisky. Next day it was more motoring until a NE 4-5 hit us as we Cheers! rounded Rubha Reidh giving us a hard beat to Isle Risol before a supper of venison. Loch Inver tempted us but we really needed to make more miles so, We woke to bright sunshine and then the fog came in. By 1130 it was lifting so we aided by a south-easterly we carried on past the The Old Man of Stoer to started to weigh anchor. That was the signal for it to return even thicker. We Kinlochbervie or ‘KLB’ for short. Pics: Old Man of Stoer and Kinlochbervie For the were not destined to go anywhere. After lunch we rowed ashore with the hand next 5 days we were harbour bound in KLB with strong northerlies, verging on bearing compass as our guide and enjoyed a walk before tea and carrot cake in gale force. Not what we wanted for the onward passage to Orkney. The only the café. We could see more on the return row and passed close to a fishing boat redeeming factor was some VERY cheap diesel and free fish from the rafted up on the yacht ahead of us. Exchanging greetings, they asked if we would harbourmaster! Day 6 promised to be better so we were up and underway at like some squat tailed lobsters, cooked and for free. It would have been rude to 0320 to catch the tide at Cape Wrath. Despite us giving the cape a respectful 5- refuse the 3 pints worth or so they gave us! As it turned out they were creel mile offing conditions were horrible. Even with almost no wind the leftover sea fishing for live Wrasse which they sold to the salmon farms who use them as was chaotic with great pyramids of water rearing up from every direction at ‘cleaner fish’, ridding the salmon of parasites. The lobsters, little creatures the random. There was no choice but to motor sail on until we got to more orderly size of large prawns, were their by-catch and almost an embarrassment to them. water. As luck would have it the early start allowed us to creep into Stromness at They were delicious! It was the 9th of June and we had reckoned on being further 2245 just as the tide was turning foul. It felt like it had been a very long day spent North by now but still no reliable wind. We sailed off the anchor but half an hour in a washing machine drum! later were motoring again. Alternately sailing and motoring we transited Kyle

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We’d earned a ‘lay-day’ and then spent another one getting ready for the North discovered that the Norwegian rigs all had ‘cells’, a brilliant idea and no doubt, Sea crossing. A propane refill, more paraffin and yet more diesel before rewarding great for the workers. As dawn broke on the 25th we picked up Marstein ourselves with an excellent dinner in the Royal Hotel with Mark, whose Rustler 42 lighthouse, bringing it abeam 2 hours later and then sailed on all the way to the was heading for Svalbard. Another early start for us on the tide with a fine Bergen Sailing Club marina in Kviterdspollen. We’d logged 279 miles in 74 hours, southerly F3-4 breeze and the best sail of the cruise so far making good time up not our fastest passage, but we were ‘abroad’ at last. to the little harbour of Pierowall on Westray which was to be our UK departure Bergen to Stromstad point. The last time we arrived in Norway we had to go through the formalities of clearing customs. This time we enquired at the club and were told that if we were only staying in the country for a few weeks we didn’t need to bother, no further encouragement was needed. Bergen, we were told, ‘enjoys’ 251 wet days annually and we can vouch for that! Never mind, the facilities in the new club house were excellent and the supermarket was only 10 minute’s walk up the road. The brand names took a little getting used to and as for the prices …. Norway is not a cheap country!

Old Man of Stoer The 22nd of June dawned fine and we were soon underway. The southerly F3 gave us a cracking sail past N. Ronaldsay. Encouraged we made the cardinal error of congratulating ourselves on our rate of progress, especially as the wind was forecast to last, how foolish! Within 2 hours the sails were slatting about in an oily calm. On with the engine and so it continued for the next 24 hours until the now forecast fog banks rolled in giving us less than a cable visibility and still no wind. We hadn’t yet reached the gas fields and very little shipping showed on the AIS Lysöy anchorage until the CPA (Closest Point of Approach) alarm went off. A Norwegian sail training vessel, the Loyal Norway was heading across our bows at 6-7 knots on We’ve always been in the habit of asking the locals to recommend good collision course! The logical thing to do was to take way off and re-evaluate. Once anchorages so 2 days later armed with a longish list we motored round to the stopped the CPA started increasing and a few minutes later the ghostly vessel little marina at Hjellestad to refuel. Again our luck was in. Invited aboard a big loomed out of the fog a cable or so ahead and just as quickly disappeared. Phew! Halberg Rassy, Stevo and Jasna loaned us a number of the Norwegian A close pass indeed and thank goodness for the AIS. That night the visibility Havneguiden pilot books. We returned the favour in Clyde Cruising Club volumes. improved though the wind continued fickle. The only excitement was my ‘dumb’ First stop in rain and poor visibility was Lysöy which looked amazingly different in phone getting an SMS. How could that be in the middle of the N. Sea? We later the next morning’s sunshine. The island was the summer home of Ole Bull the noted Norwegian violinist and has lots of lovely walks as well as a fantastic view

Spring 2017 Page 22 The Twister Magazine from the summit. The weather looked to continue unsettled but being in the inner leads amongst the islands we had lots of potential stops. Kvalvaag was highly recommended but was deserted, not even a working tap on the quay and an enforced extra day’s stay as a gale went through could have been better spent. Onwards to the south. A log excerpt ‘At anchor in 2 metres LW, inner pool , Pillapollen, 1000 miles logged today’. We toyed with the idea of visiting Utsire but the forecast wasn’t encouraging so we turned in and sailed down along the waterfront in Haugesund. Study the ‘photo carefully and you will see the bridge clearance height of 13m. We work on an ‘air draft’ of 11.5m so no problem!

Røydehamn We were now getting within striking distance of Lindesnes, Norway’s equivalent of Land’s End and viewed as a no-go beyond point by many. Once round we Haugesund Offshore B&B would be heading up the far busier south coast in a much more easterly direction and bringing the prevailing wind astern. After some poor visibility the sky cleared Lots of old buildings interspersed with modern and the ubiquitous offshore rig for the rounding before closing in again as we beat up to Hillevågen where, support ships in the commercial docks to the south of the town. A few yachts wonder of wonders, there was another red ensign. Tony, her owner, was a great were starting to appear but we had the anchorage in Røydehamn to ourselves. enthusiast of Norway. Looking at the charts that we’d borrowed for the The following afternoon the wind started building and the day ended with a Norwegian part of the trip we’d realised earlier that there was a 10 mile ‘gap’ on boisterous downwind F5-6 sail before an early evening arrival in Rausvågen where the south coast. In a moment of inspiration we asked Tony whether he had a we anchored under sail in 2.8m, sand bottom. The holding was good, which was chart that covered it. He did. On examination it was soon apparent that it was just as well as we spent the next 36 hours sheering around in heavy F7 squalls ancient but, never mind, it showed the way to go. Ann carefully ‘photographed it dropping off the hills. and downloaded the pictures to the laptop. We were not going to get lost! As it The wind blew itself out the next night so it was a mix of motoring and motor turned out we needn’t have worried; there was so much traffic on the coastal sailing towards Farsund before it increased enough for us to sail the last few route further east that it was just a case of following the one in front. With The miles. We’d been told that Farsund was a good place to go and that it offered free barometer remaining stubbornly low continuing rain was inevitable and we took berthing. Sadly time had moved on and the berths weren’t free anymore though no persuading that another day in a sheltered anchorage was a good idea. free fresh bread rolls and a local paper were delivered every morning to visiting The next leg offered some interesting pilotage opportunities, really narrow yachts. It was now 10 days since leaving Bergen and this was our first washing between some islets, so much so that we were too busy sailing to take any machine port Críonna (and we) got a good clean up and we had a chance to re- ‘photos. There were lots of isolated summer houses and with a vigorous ringing of provision, especially as the free rolls led us to a wonderful bakery! their hand-bell these girls passed us doing the paper round. After negotiating Ny- Hellesund we had to confront the rest of the boating world in Stocken. However tight it looks there is always room for a little Twister to squeeze in. East of

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Stocken one comes to the Blindleia, the famous and beautiful 10-mile inshore looking Dehler didn’t follow the entrance instructions and struck the submerged passage, mostly reasonably wide but with some 10m pinch points. We had a light rock with a resounding crash which echoed around the anchorage. A whole bunch following wind and the ambition was to sail all the way through but we fell at the of BBQ’ers took a line thrown to the shore and pulled her off, she was still afloat first hurdle. A complete loss of wind in the narrows at Gamle Hellesund forced us the next morning so who knows what damage was done? The forecast SW wind to motor for 50 metres to clear some rocks. Thereafter it was all sailed. At the for the next day promised a quick 60 mile passage to Stromstad. Once out clear of penultimate pinch point a motoring Norwegian yacht followed closely as it was the skerries the wind steadily increased. By lunchtime we were thinking of reefing too narrow to overtake. On waving our thanks to him once clear the unexpected and soon after, pulled down 2 reefs in the main and reduced the headsail. By the response was ‘You are most impolite, you should not be sailing, you held me up’ time we were nearing land it was blowing a good F6 and the sea in the with which he motored on into the distance. The following motor boat who’d approaches where the swell was feeling the bottom was really quite nasty. heard it all gave us a big grin and a thumbs-up. This was the only such experience Stromstad itself in the late evening would have been a challenge too far so we we’ve ever had in Scandinavia. anchored just a mile or so short in Storatrollholmen. Ah, the peace of being in the lee of the island! The next day, Sunday, was fine but still windy. The anchorage was lovely so we tidied the boat ready for Stromstad on the morrow.

Blindleia Arendal was heaving, busy, busy, busy. The heavens opened, and the showers with their sophisticated booking system wouldn’t play but we did manage to Sandvika exchange a Finnish propane bottle and do an engine oil change. We were glad to Stromstad to Copenhagen leave after one night and exchange the mayhem for the peace and quiet of the little rocky inlet of Sandvika up the coast where the locals had time to be friendly. It was now the 18th of July. The weather seemed to have changed for the better On then past Kragerø with its approach lighthouse sitting atop a church. The town and the Scandinavian holidays were in full swing. An endless procession of boats a serious touristy place and not for us. Our choice was the almost enclosed inlet were entering and leaving Stromstad, Traffic many of them small and very high of Skutevikkilen. The entrance is narrow, perhaps 5-6 metres, and the pilot powered speedboats from Norway, lured by the cheaper booze and food prices. counsels to keep as close as you dare to the steep rock to port as there is a Our needs were more basic, haircuts, supplies and a routine blood test for me, sunken rock in the middle. With Ann on the helm ‘close’ was less than 1 metre, carried out ultra-efficiently in a beautiful health centre on presentation of my even I was getting worried but it worked. Once inside there was a good EHIC card and payment of a £9 admin charge. Town business done we departed anchorage in a big expanse of sheltered water. Later that evening a very new for the beautiful off-lying Koster Islands, themselves a nature reserve and

Spring 2017 Page 24 The Twister Magazine surrounded by Sweden’s first marine national park. Our first call was to Ramsö a beautiful unspoilt little island. Walking through the landscape was a delight and we eventually found the red waterlilies for which it is noted. With the weather settled a visit to Ursholmen was feasible, this is an outlying islet upon which Sweden’s most westerly lighthouse was built. The approach has many rocks and the entrance is narrow. Once inside it was ‘bows-to’ the rocks flanked by the most friendly Swedes and Norwegians. Making the most of the weather it was then back to the little harbour of Brevik on Syd Koster, full but still room for a Twister. We rented bikes and cycled around the island, visiting the interesting museum and swimming in clear 20⁰C water from a rocky beach.

Stora Gasö Heading south again the nautical tourist trap of Smögen was on the agenda, but not for long, it was heaving with no place to stop, so around to the slightly less busy Kungshamn where we caught up again with the ‘ship’s business’ and shopping. A ‘phone call to the chandlers in Smögen had confirmed they had a private berth so on departure we were able to divert and buy the boarding ladder we wanted, before escaping the mayhem. A cracking sail around to a nice anchorage was only marred by a big German classic yacht anchoring far too close to us and then assuming that the offer of a cold beer was a substitute for moving. In the morning, despite the proximity of the German, we sailed off the anchor just Ursholmen to make the point. With a steadily increasing wind we had a tedious beat against When we first arrived in Norway we had contacted ex Twister owner Anders the current down to Slubbersholmen where we picked up a Swedish Cruising Club Larsen who lives in Oslo. He was a mine of information as to ‘special’ places to mooring before torrential rain and ferocious squalls swept over the island. The visit. He’d also just bought a Nordic Folkboat in Denmark which he was sailing weather quietened overnight though the sea in the narrow approach channel home. Now that our paths were about to cross we arranged to rendezvous looked a bit ‘iffy’. As it was dead to windward we decided that it was worth trying further south in Gluppö. After swimming (but mind the jellyfish) it was dinner on to motor through with the fall back plan that, in the event of engine problems, we the mothership, Críonna, followed by coffee and nightcap on her little neighbour. could spin Críonna round with a scrap of headsail and run back to the mooring. Of With the weather so settled Anders suggested a trip out to the Väderöarna course, having made the plan, everything went fine and a nice sail ensued down (Weather) Islands, in the far reaches of the Fjällbacka archipelago. A slow start through Marstrand (another yachting honeypot) and on to anchor, too early for allowed the breeze to fill in and after a lovely sail we were secure in the tiny inlet tea so time to clean all traces of Kungshamn from the topsides. Major civilisation, of Stora Gasö. A re-run of the previous night’s catering arrangements was in the form of Gothenburg was not too far to the south and boating activity was followed by watching the sunset from the warm smooth rocks, all quite idyllic. increasing. Beating south through the islands was slowed by a northerly current of around 1 knot, unexpected and a bit of a shock in these non-tidal waters. We managed to cross the Gothenburg approach channel with its huge motorway

Spring 2017 Page 25 The Twister Magazine gantry style channel marks before the wind died completely leaving us to motor the last few miles to Vrångö and find the last berth in the outer harbour. Vrångö was a pretty little place and obviously a top destination for Gothenburgers. The showers were good and the little supermarket well stocked. The forecast for the next day was for nor’westerlies, a pleasant change, so we decided to skip the less interesting Swedish coast to the south and make the 100- mile passage to Helsingor in Denmark. How is it that the best laid plans go astray? Our borrowed Danish charts were of an age I dare not reveal so we left late in order to arrive in daylight. The wind had other ideas and steadily increased. When the GPS ETA had reeled back to 0200 it was time to take action. With the main handed and the genny rolled to not much more than the size of the storm jib the ETA responded. With the dawn the wind fell light and we had a lovely sail along the Danish coast with a backdrop of Kronborg castle. What a contrast the green landscape and woods were with rocky Sweden. Denmark’s marinas operate a Little Mermaid red/green label system on their berths with obvious meaning. We must have surveyed the entire marina before we found a ‘green’ offering just enough width Copenhagen to Mariehamn between the ‘box’ piles. It was the 7th August and time to move on as our Swedish friends were expecting Helsingor is an attractive Danish port city and we spent 4 days there. Being early us in Kalmar in the middle of the month. Crossing the Oresund was interesting August it was busy, the more so as this year was Shakespeare’s 400th anniversary with its huge bridge and approach viaducts. Commercial traffic was heavy, we and the magnificent Kronborg Castle was the inspiration for Hamlet’s Elsinore. On were intrigued by this deck cargo of marine wind turbine bases. a less cultured note Danish booze prices were a magnet for the Swedes disgorging from the ½-hourly ferries across the sound. It’s the same the world over! The weather became unsettled with many heavy showers but we got busy with the local culture as well as visiting the most impressive Fredricksborg castle by train. The local chandlers had the Swedish south coast chart pack which we were missing. Ferreting in the bottom of their drawer we found an unsold one, 2 editions old and unpriced. Having no shame we negotiated a 50% discount on current price and all parties were delighted! Time then to move on to Copenhagen. Ann had hopes of berthing in the city centre at Wilders Plads but there was no chance, everything was pre-booked. With everywhere else looking busy too we tried Margretheholmhavn a club marina where, once again, our small size paid off in finding a berth. It wasn’t really that far from the city centre using the water bus. Having already done some ‘touristy’ research we’d already decided on what we’d like to see. We thought the Little Mermaid was disappointing, so small and mobbed by (other) tourists. Wind Turbine Bases

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Our plan was to use the Falsterbo Canal which cuts off the south west tip of By the morning of the 11th the wind had eased and we were underway ready for Sweden and its extensive off-lying shallows. Höllviken at its northern end has a the 1000 bridge opening. It’s only a short canal, you can see the end in the picture small friendly club run marina, it was relaxing after our Danish experiences and and now almost exclusively used by small craft. Once clear of the breakwaters the there were bicycles available on free loan. This was just as well as it blew a near wind was a fresh F4-5 NW so with 2 reefs in the main we were off up the coast at gale for the next 3 days. However, the surroundings were lovely with cycle tracks a rate of knots. The wind dropped a little by lunchtime allowing us to shake out everywhere and the land was flat. We needed more gas and after extensive the reefs and set the spinnaker which we carried for 5 hours, all the way to enquiries were told of a place that refilled bottles. After a bit of an excursion we Skillinge, our night’s destination. It’s a pretty little harbour and a Jazz band was found it, a container up a gravelly farm track with a notice giving a ‘phone playing in the Hamnkrog (Harbour pub) opposite our berth, all very atmospheric. number to ring. We had no ‘phone with us but found a lady in a nearby stables So much so that we decided to stay the next day! Then a goose winged downwind who kindly called for us. The recorded message said it was closed until tomorrow. run, , menaced by threatening thunder clouds, brought us past Karlskrona before Back at the marina we got the harbourmaster to listen to the message too and it we found a sheltered but weedy shallow anchorage in Hästholmen. At the second turned out that the man must have had a ‘day-job’ as he was only open between attempt the anchor held, just. In the morning we were woken by the sound of the 1830 and 1900. We decided to try an SMS to ask if he could fill an English propane wind increasing and then the GPS anchor alarm sounding. We were dragging, but bottle and a Danish/Finnish ‘Kosan’ bottle. A reply came back straight away that only slowly, time for breakfast before getting underway. The sail up to Kalmar the latter was OK but he wasn’t sure about the other. Encouraged we cycled back started well before towering black thunder clouds started building to the north. the next evening. The farm track was busy with cars and vans and when we There was either going to be a lot of wind or rain or both. We got the rain whilst arrived at the container there was a queue of people with assorted bottles who the wind decided to ‘box the compass’ before vanishing completely and leaving were politely amused, both by our bottles and mode of transport. Once at the us to motor the last 5 miles, completely sodden. front of the queue the Kosan bottle was no problem and the Swedish Propane It was the 14th August, the date we’d told Lars, our Swedish friend, we’d arrive. connection was just the same as the English. A valuable lesson for next year We’d hardly finished tying up in the marina before there was a knock on the hull. providing we can find a ‘filling’ station. It was also much cheaper than exchange Any thought of a quiet evening alone before meeting them was gone. No excuses bottle prices. were accepted, the family were expecting us and dinner was organised. We were ‘honorary’ family and of course had to stay on for Lars’ birthday, we ended up staying for a week and very good it was too. One looming problem was how to transport our borrowed charts and pilot books (over 16kgs as it turned out) when we flew home. In a moment of inspiration a large rigid suitcase was suggested. Lars drove us to a big charity shop in the city, no luck but they suggested the Red Cross shop across the bridge on Öland. The ladies there were intrigued when we borrowed a tape measure to check the sizes of their stock, all too small. We asked if there were any more ‘out the back’. There was one, very large but just the right size, in good condition and with a handle and wheels. They liked us so the price was the same as the others, 50 Krona, about £4.50! We departed Kalmar on the 21st, a murky day with no wind and an oily sea. We were the only yacht motoring north into a stream of southbound Germans, rather like migrating birds. Overnight in Sandvik and then a magnificent spinnaker run Falsterbokanalen around the nature reserve island, Blå Jungfrau before a night in Nabbelund on the northern tip of Öland. Lars had said that we must visit Visby, the world heritage site, on Gotland. In season it’s packed but we arrived to an almost deserted

Spring 2017 Page 27 The Twister Magazine marina. The town is lovely, the weather was good and besides the sightseeing we got 2 coats of varnish on the brightwork.

Visby Harbour Visby We’d planned to sail on the evening of the 3rd day and make an overnight passage to the Swedish coast but it was too windy. Overnight the wind eased and backed so after letting go at 0500 we had a storming, rough reach northwards, 90 miles in 14 hours and hand steered all the way. The next two days, sailing up the inner leads amongst the islands, were enlivened by sightings of white tailed eagles and the Swedish navy doing exercises, A patrol boat passed us at speed throwing up a big wash. Seeing him returning we decided to get our revenge. We ‘dipped’ our ensign as he passed which caused chaos as a crew member had to rush aft to reciprocate. That night it blew a gale, not that we noticed as the little anchorage on Idholmen was completely sheltered. The strong wind had gone by the morning and the sky was clear giving us a lovely sail across Stockholm’s outer approaches to our last Swedish anchorage on Lidö. Little wind the next day meant motor sailing most of the way across to the Åland islands and our final destination of Mariehamn. Críonna is now winterised and tucked up safe in a big shed awaiting the next season’s adventure. We were away for 3 months, covered 2135nm and visited 62 anchorages and Haul out time ports.

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OLIVA'S 50TH BIRTHDAY - 6th August 2016 Ken Layzell pushes the boat out for a birthday bash

A short spinnaker sail through the Burnham moorings was quickly organised for the early arrivals, followed by a long buffet lunch with Oliva dressed overall. Lots of smiles, laughter and reminiscences and I noticed John quietly pouring a little celebratory fizz over Oliva's bow as his mother had done 50 years before. A further sail upriver in the afternoon and our thoughts turned to the evening meal. A dozen of us were there to enjoy excellent food and a really super occasion with old friends remembered and a champagne toast to Oliva. With the bonus of perfect weather for the occasion, it had been a truly memorable day enjoyed by

all. Over the years, we have usually raised a glass to Oliva on the anniversary of her launch date. As the 50th approached I thought that a special celebration was needed. For the previous 3 years I had been reminded of this by John Elliott, whose parents had commissioned the building of Oliva in 1966. John insisted that he would come up from Devon to Essex for the occasion and so any chance of backsliding on my part was not an issue. And so on Saturday 6th August 2016 we celebrated Oliva's 50 years afloat. We had a gathering of some 25 family and friends on the pontoons at Burnham Yacht Harbour. Included amongst them were friends who had sailed aboard Oliva in her serious racing years of the seventies, when Burnham Week and East Anglian Offshore were part of the summer programme. Also present were yacht designer Alan Hill who had surveyed Oliva 46 years ago and Ernest and Avril Mills who had commissioned their Twister Temeraire of Lawling which was launched from Cardnell Bros. yard just 2 months ahead of Oliva.

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A TESTING TRIP than those that favour the stronger Island side tide, as we and they proved during the Round the Island Race. Today, the wind was just right it looked like we’d fetch Peter Mulville examines his performance on a trip to near to Lymington. Cherbourg A well-sailed 26’ Contessa [recognised as fast from the recent Cowes Classics] tacked on our satisfyingly straight wake and was very slowly closing astern. I’d either have to be overtaken or do work by sheeting in the main and steering. My recent cruising has been constrained by an inability to take more than a week Fortunately, I think they changed helm because the new helmsman sailed a touch or so’s absence from work and, sadly, my two regular companions have made freer, a touch faster and slowly dropped off to leeward. A win! their last sail. The summer of 2017 will be different and I plan to be away for The wind was now 23 knots across the deck; what I should have done was to some weeks; necessarily mostly on my own. I took a few days off in late July 2016 stand on to Studland Bay; what I did was to bring up on a buoy at Yarmouth and and planned to test my single-handed abilities further. The key test questions go ashore for lunch at Salty’s. Most people who know Salty’s would agree that were: this was a most seamanlike decision. It also ticked the ‘satisfactory’ box regarding 1. Could I feed myself – economically as well as satisfactorily? lunch; a simple dinner aboard ticked the economical one. 2. Could I keep myself properly – clean and tidily all the times? 3. I was once accused of being a ‘lazy sailor’ by a man of great experience I wasn’t so pleased with myself very early on Saturday, the forecast was for light winds and I planned to go to Cherbourg. Had I been in Studland Bay I could have [Roger Justice] because I did not sail trim enough. That hurt and I try to left because the flood tide is not on your nose once clear of the bay. However, in remember his words and ‘do it right.’ Can I keep that up but not so much Yarmouth Roads I was stuck contemplating more good coffee and a foul tide in that I tire myself? the Needles. I wanted to be off so, with other boats encouragingly heading out I I knew I could do the sailing bit – if not perfectly I believe I can keep a respectable left at 0550 [an hour before I should have done considering the tide] slowly ship and make a respectable passage; but I’d like to do several longer trips in the making progress under power against the last of the flood in the Needles days available. Channel. At 0730 I passed Bridge Buoy off the Needles Lighthouse aiming for Cherbourg, with the ebb just starting. There was no wind in Bursledon Pool at the top of the Hamble on Friday 29th July; on a sunny morning I was contemplating my waiting-for-the-tide coffee and There has been much written as to how to plan the cross-Channel passage. The anticipating a relaxing motor down the Solent to Yarmouth or Studland Bay with tides run stronger on the French side. The ‘book’ tells you to work out the tides the idea of crossing to Cherbourg on the Saturday. for the entire trip and to offset your course by the sum of the total corrections. If you leave on the first of the ebb from Yarmouth the figures usually work out to Fifteen knots from the southwest puffed up at the mouth of the Hamble; with something around 4o to the west of the rhumb line. I started sailing across the slight regret at having to be active I hoisted sail and tacked towards Egypt Point North Sea with just an ex-RAF grid compass and an echo sounder. The accepted on the Isle of Wight. It’s a well-worn track for Viveza; at the top of the tide we [I plan then was to end up off the enemy coast at dawn to see which lighthouse you have borrowed Trevor Clifton’s use of ‘we’ to cover Viveza and me – especially were nearest to and could get a bearing from. You’d aim for one that would be when both of us are doing things right] were able to fetch well inshore on the up-tide of your intended [not always achieved] destination. I also like electronic Island side before the boisterous tide rip around the point started to slow us. I toys available today and I do believe that you should use them not so much as to tacked and lashed the helm. navigate by but to refine your traditional navigation. She sails well, on the wind with helm lashed, the main down track a touch so that I usually get it wrong; I usually set off on the rhumb line 181o to Cherbourg and the forward third is just back-winded by the hard-sheeted genoa. Once past sort it out mid-channel using the electronics and still end up east of Cherbourg so, Beaulieu you can go a long way in on the mainland side, although you have less this time [knowing that I planned to write up the trip and wanted get it right] I tide the sea is flatter and the wind less disturbed. You can sail closer and faster

Spring 2017 Page 30 The Twister Magazine decided to steer 186o allowing 5o for the tide; which conveniently works out to 5 from Cherbourg. I was too far to the west so I again altered course to 171o. This miles at the other end. This would be up-tide of Cherbourg on arrival, just as in was partly because I had become bored with motoring and was running at 6.3 the pre-electronic ‘book.’ The ‘book’ calculations assume that you will make your knots [I would experience less west-going tide to push me and had to adjust chosen speed and also that the tide is reading from your chosen charts and accordingly] to get to Cherbourg in time for dinner. The sun was shining; there following the correct instructions as described in the appropriate tidal diamonds. was no wind and I found an empty berth in Cherbourg at 1815, in time for an unmemorable dinner ashore. It doesn’t and didn’t work that way. The tide swirls off the Needles and the chart plotter showed a definite southerly set to the first of the ebb. I’d set the engine Sunday dawned brilliantly to a cloudless sky. Looked after boat, looked after self for 5.5 knots, the calculated passage speed. As we cleared the land the sea and looked for lunch. Sunday Lunch is very important to me and one reason for calmed and boat speed crawled to 5.9 knots. We don’t stand in the way of going to Cherbourg was a particular restaurant. I sat in the sun and had a Michelin progress and I didn’t want to slow down to fit into a passage plan that was class meal. Snails; not an excuse to dip bread into garlic butter but beautifully already adrift. At 1040 I altered to 181o. This was, in part, influenced by two other tender and served with a garlic-hinted tomato compote; calves’ liver then crème yachts that had passed me under power. I’d heard them on the radio discussing brule e. Highly recommended: La Regence Hotel. their course which was near enough due south. [As an aside, I think it unlucky to change a boat’s name. However one yacht had an unfortunate punning name such that, if it were in my power, I’d make a change mandatory.]

Escargots r r I like Cherbourg. I like sitting in the marina and watching the boats come and go; you can usually tell where from or where bound by the state of the tide. I also recommend Le Redoudtable. This is a decommissioned French nuclear submarine you can tour. One interesting item [well two – one is a back-up] are the chest freezer sized inertial navigators. These used gyroscopes to determine the position

of the submarine, with reference to a known starting point, but without reference No comment to any outside information. Your mobile phone has the same ability, and it fits in I did have an excellent breakfast. Sausages cook well on a moving boat; if the your pocket. swell is right you don’t need to turn them - they slowly roll in the pan. The forecast, for Sunday, was still for light airs but increasing in the afternoon. Whilst I assumed that anyone with a boat of such silly name could not be a There was a hint of more weather later in the week and I didn’t want to have to seaman he was obviously a better navigator than me, because he was right. I cross from France in a gale. At 0515 on Monday I left Cherbourg bound for didn’t allow for the southerly set at the Needles, didn’t allow for the longer Weymouth setting the rhumb-line course. I was happy that this would probably period of slack water at neap tides when the tide did change some 4 hours out take me slightly to the west of Weymouth and upwind. My father always stayed

Spring 2017 Page 31 The Twister Magazine upwind of a destination. I should have left Cherbourg by the west entrance but I was carrying a huge object well off the centre line. From a distance, it looked as if stuck to habit and left from the east entrance. The seas are much lumpier there it was steering about 30 degrees to its actual track. but, as a child, I went to Cherbourg by ferry and wondered at the ruined It was a busy time between 1100 and 1230; I just lost sight of Cap de la Hague blockhouse; I still recall my father telling the story as to how the Nazi defenders of then just picked up Portland Bill; the sky clouded over and it started to spatter the port held out until the switchboard for the controlled minefield was with rain. A single dolphin cruised by without saying hello. Immediately after, destroyed. again without any introductions, the wind picked up and I broke out the genoa. As I left the port the guardship was slowly patrolling off the entrance. She was a We suddenly found ourselves in steady 20 knots apparent doing 6.5 knots plus on pretty sight; the bleu blanc rouge stripe compliments the grey hull – the French a reach. The tide had turned and was helping. SOG was over 7 knots in the right Navy has chic! She, probably welcoming the interruption, altered towards me. I direction. I did some chartwork and altered a few degrees to the north. The didn’t want an inquisition so we altered to show our dodgers; having presumably superb electric Raymarine Evo 100 steering gear was holding her nicely on course read our name the corvette went back to her circuit off the entrance. – we were yawing about 15 degrees either side. The very helpful heading line was happily intersecting with Weymouth pier-head – as it did for another near 6 There were no other yachts in sight and, a concern, no one leaving Cherbourg. hours. The sea was flat with a high thin cloud layer. Progress was disappointing, although In a way, nothing much happened for another 5 hours or so. Viveza streaked we were doing 5.5 knots under power the speed over ground was, at first, a along touching over 7 knots at times. I didn’t need to trim sails or adjust the surprise. I hadn’t appreciated it but because I was heading the flood tide the SOG heading; I just had to concentrate on enjoying a glorious sail. Even the rain helped would fall below the boat speed. This [obviously to me now] doesn’t happen by stopping the sea from building – no big following seas meant that we held our when you cross the tide at right angles. Some more calculations later reassured course. I was clipped on, well wrapped, dry, warm and sheltering under the hood me – when the ebb came we’d benefit greatly. keeping an intermittent lookout and a check on our course, which took us I can confirm that Jersey Metrological Office is not in the pay of the Jersey Tourist precisely just clear of the overfalls off St. Alban’s Ledge. Board. I have occasionally wondered, experiencing Channel Island weather Without further adjustments, we brought up a mile off the pier head and berthed significantly worse than that forecast, but today they were prophesying a Lord of by 1715. the Rings like doom. Strong southwest winds in the afternoon, very high seas, bad visibility, heavy rain, dragons and other terrors. I thought about turning back but We won’t discuss Tuesday except to say that whilst the diver I employed found comforted myself that I was 60 miles north; I had the wide-open Poole Bay under several pairs of glasses he didn’t find the ones I lost when I slipped and fell on my our lee and was currently motoring in 8 knots apparent wind. We’d be a lot closer return aboard. [Always the most dangerous part – the return from the trip to a harbour by the time that storm hit us. Later, the UK Met Office comforted by ashore.] stating that there were no gale warnings for Wight or Portland offering south- A strong Atlantic frontal system was advertised so on Wednesday I left westerly 5-6 occasionally 7 later. [You always believe forecasts that bring good Weymouth bound for Poole. I have done this trip before; it wasn’t spring tides news – SW7 was good news?] and the tide rips off St. Albans Head are not as nasty on the flood as on the ebb. I At 0800 the sun was trying to break through and the wind puffed up a knot or so. usually go very close to the headland – about on the 10-metre contour or less, the It was good to be overtaken, as we approached the shipping lanes, by a larger traditional ‘half pistol shot off the headland.’ I had the flood with me, time with British yacht on a similar course. Someone else was out there. What I also hadn’t me and the wind served. Ideal for the inshore passage. Just for the outing I chose anticipated was that our course crossed the shipping lines at right angles. Dodging to go the ‘book’ way – the long way - avoiding the firing range. [Which doesn’t most of the big ships was simple; much simpler than on the Needles Cherbourg even go bang in August so there was no need to avoid it.] I can remark only that route where the crossing is at an acute angle. Just one ship was most confusing, it’s lumpy seas all the way from the end of the ledge to Anvil Point and there’s as at first I couldn’t determine its course. As it closed, thankfully astern, I saw it nothing to look at. If you go inshore you do get gorgeous scenery and whilst you

Spring 2017 Page 32 The Twister Magazine may have some pointy seas to contend with – they won’t last long and may give I do worry about chains lurking just under the surface. Salvation came; a larger you a free deck wash. yacht crossed ahead and we followed. We brought up in the lee of Brownsea Island. It would have been fun, but stupid, to sail on. When on my own, I hand sail by furling the jib and slackening the mainsheet so the boom is well over the guardrails. Viveza will then near enough stop - making about a knot to windward. I can lower the main which will be clear of the crosstrees and furl it. With everything tidy, warps ready and fenders sorted I motored to Poole and a friendly berth with showers and a good pub meal readily available. I didn’t do much Thursday. I planned to get back to Bursledon on Friday or Saturday morning. On Friday, after breakfast ashore, I noticed that Twister of Mersea had snuck in on the pontoon behind me. [Usually, when racing, she sneaks in ahead of me.] I was planning to leave Poole on the last of the ebb but waited to see Alan and Gill - they must have been ashore. I didn’t see them and eventually left a bit late and battled the flood out of Poole. It was a gentle trip back through the North Channel and just past Yarmouth; mostly under power. I had left it late on the tide so rather than battle against the ebb further up the Solent I turned back to Yarmouth for a second Salty’s lunch. Excellent. Bad economics. The Run in to Poole It had been a broad reach to Anvil Point with a slowly increasing south-westerly. As we rounded up for Poole Harbour the wind increased and, once again, we found ourselves with 20 knots plus of wind across the deck in flat sea and going like a train. In glorious sun boats were out playing in all different directions. I took the helm. We passed close to my old Yachtmaster Ocean Instructor going to sea. I don’t think I was displaying best seamanship; we were going wonderfully too fast and I could not see under the genoa. I had to keep ducking down to look. A few furls would have made it much safer – but slower. We don’t do slow. I don’t like chain ferries. As a long time Hornblower fan I have read of Napoleonic chains slung across harbour mouths to keep out English ships and of daring cutting-out expeditions, headed by our hero, circumventing such unfriendly constructions. I think of the physics involved and although, in theory, the trailing chain [the one behind the ferry] should be the slackest and deepest. it needn’t be The Needles and the Shingles Bank especially when the ferry is close to the departure shore. Confusingly, the Poole Saturday was as perfect as the previous Sunday. I decided to do tourist and took Chain Ferry hoists an anchor buoy when it is about to move off. It did. I was not the open topped bus to the Needles headland. There was no wind and perfect happy to see it move, over canvassed and I felt only just in control with other visibility. A fantastic view. The silence was broken only by the rustling of the very boats nearby. [Viveza would say otherwise, pointing out that she was not asking visible tide rips running over the Shingles Bank. The most frightening part [of the for large angles of helm.] entire week?] was the bus trip. I don’t like edges; edges there are a plenty as the

Spring 2017 Page 33 The Twister Magazine bus crawls along a narrow road hacked into the side of the cliffs with a near [more than?] vertical drop just feet from the road. I had a simple lunch and returned to the mooring to watch the boats go by. Yarmouth lifeboat launched so I turned on the VHF. The wind had got up and the afternoon’s problems included a motor yacht losing power and grounding on the shingles, a fishing boat sunk because of a stern tube failure plus children in the water from a capsized dinghy. A second life boat joined in. From my uninvolved perspective I could understand all that was going on and much cherish and respect the laid-back British sang-froid approach to difficulties when the yacht, retrieving children from the water, calmly spoke to the Coastguard saying: ‘We could do with a bit of a hand here.’ Sunday was an unremarkable grey wet sail back to Bursledon and home to Sunday Lunch. Test Results: Q1. Fail. I was always fed, often very well but food aboard was unsatisfactory. The hot weather quickly killed most of my fresh food; I don’t have an efficient cold box or fridge and must do something about this. Food aboard was supermarket sandwiches; but these only keep a day or so. You need to be in expensive marinas to get to supermarkets; if I want to anchor off I need to be able to keep fresh food or change my eating habits. I think there are many sacrifices I will make to go sailing but it will be very very hard to like pasta, which appears to be the cruising staple. My meal in Cherbourg was €50 – great value; other meals ashore were less. There were too many indifferent meals ashore for want of the right materials aboard. Q2. Pass Passage chart I did cut myself when I fell in Weymouth – so I grew a beard which I keep. I always looked after Viveza before I looked after me. Q3. Pass

I didn’t use the engine when I didn’t need to and did get where I wanted to get to in good time. My navigation could have been better but, by the old pre electronic school, I’d have still got there. I always knew where I was [but not exactly how fast I was going or exactly where I was heading] without electronic benefit.

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RASMUS AND THE GUNBOAT Our daytime navigation was OK too: we’d all had to map-read our way around Northern Germany on numerous exercises, so it was easy to transfer that skill to Trevor David Clifton describes an adventure from the days charts; the only difficulty was our lack of familiarity with the symbols and before he discovered Twisters abbreviations, and the lights at night. As the sky grew darker the wind grew stronger. ‘Never shorten sail ’til the gun’l’s awash’ was an expression I’d heard somewhere; it wasn’t a policy that Jock agreed with: he came up on deck, did a short war- dance (or it might have been a Scottish version of the hornpipe) and, translated from the Gaelic, said ‘shorten sail’ in a loud voice. We did, and Rasmus still raced along but with a lot less crashing and banging. We followed a tanker into the Oresund, the stretch of relatively sheltered water leading to Copenhagen - that saved going below to navigate; we reckoned that if the tanker went aground we’d have plenty of time to change course. We were aiming for Langeline, a small harbour on the outskirts of the city, not far from Copenhagen’s famous Little Mermaid statue.

The engine refused to start; it wouldn’t even turn over: the batteries were flat. ‘What an absolutely fabulous morning! Brilliant sunshine, blue sky – and no wind!’ “Don’t worry about that now,” Jock said, “We’ll sail in.” He issued instructions. I wrote that in my diary on the 30th of June 1974. We were in Sonderborg, Denmark; we’d sailed there from the British Kiel Yacht Club. It wasn’t quite my The wind was blowing straight out of the harbour entrance - which is only ten first offshore experience but my first one was a gentle trip around Langstone metres wide. Harbour when I was twelve so it probably doesn’t count. ‘We’ were the novice I think the plan was to reach towards the harbour to pick up some speed, drop all crew of Rasmus III - a 42’, wooden ketch. I thought she was beautiful. sails as we lined up with the entrance and let the boat’s momentum carry us A sea breeze developed. We cast off and sailed northwards through Als Sund, a through. delightful ribbon of water between mainland Denmark and the island of Als, The crew were learning fast, but as yet hadn’t had to do anything in a hurry. where Davies and Carruthers sailed Dulcibella (on page 44 of my copy) in Erskine Childers’ ‘Riddle of the Sands’. The skipper shouted, down came the main and the mizzen but not the headsail which filled with wind from the wrong side when we straightened up. We came The breeze died in the afternoon. We motored into Assens to tie up for the night about, now heading for the sea wall. We bore away, sailed a short distance, – which doesn’t last long at that latitude in summer; I could have stretched it out gybed, hoisted the main, dropped it and tried again. The headsail flapped as we for an hour or two but ‘Jock’, our skipper, and Russ, the mate, had a plan: sail headed into wind, then filled on the wrong side again; the bow blew off and we non-stop to Copenhagen, a hundred and sixty miles away. ended up stuck in the entrance. We hoisted the sails and aimed at a gap between two chunks of land ahead. We’d entertained onlookers for twenty minutes or so and the harbour master Despite my lack of offshore experience I didn’t have a problem with the sails, I’d took pity on us: he came out, sculling a dinghy and towed us the short distance to owned a small dinghy for a few years and sailed a bit. a vacant mooring. Suddenly we were tied up, laughing, drinking beer and in Copenhagen.

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Heeling as she was, Rasmus climbed obliquely up the face of each wave, heeled even further as her bow rose over the crest then, as the wave passed astern, slewed into the wind before smashing her nose into the next one. Dense spray flew over the cockpit and down our necks. The noise below was terrible, like someone swinging mighty blows at the bow with a sledgehammer. Water dripped through the decks everywhere. When darkness came it was obvious that we wouldn’t be harbouring anywhere that night. We hadn’t eaten since breakfast. That led to the (eventual) recording of a successful method of sandwich manufacture, at an angle of 45° - to the vertical or horizontal, depending on your point of view. This method can probably be adapted to suit most boats and angles, and possibly improved upon. First, and most essential, stash each item required for the sandwich(es) somewhere where it can be reached, and from where it will not fall on the floor more than three or four times during manufacture. Sliced bread would be an advantage – we didn’t have any. A hot shower in the rowing club was very welcome, so was dinner. A walk around the city centre seemed like an idea, and a few miles and a few hours later we Take the bread in the left hand and knife in the right, cut slice, throw knife behind collapsed onto our bunks. gimballed stove, catch slice. Throw bread behind stove, catch knife as it slides down worktop and slap on a dollop of butter. (Butter should be wedged in a In the morning I was despatched to get the batteries charged while Jock searched drawer or behind a leg of the stove), grab the least soggy lump of ‘corned dog’ (or unsuccessfully for whatever the fault might be with the charging system. sandwich filling of your choice; grated cheese not recommended) and slap on We explored ‘Wonderful Copenhagen’ for a couple of days, re-fitted the charged bread, having again hurled knife behind stove. Grab bread from behind stove and batteries and prepared for the voyage home to Kiel, only about a hundred and slap down on any handy surface, catching knife emerging once more from behind fifty miles away. With three days left to complete the journey there should have the stove; repeat as for first slice, whilst keeping the first half of the sandwich been time for a couple of stops on the way. down with third hand/elbow/knee. Repeat for number of sandwiches required. Sandwiches should be handed round on completion as the pile becomes difficult The wind blew from about west-south-west, which was OK for the first ten miles, to hold down after two, and the standard of sandwiches begins to drop, often as then it was a hard beat. low as the bilge water. Rasmus, like many ketches, I learned later, didn’t go well to windward. Amazingly no-one was seasick. The soggy sandwiches disappeared rapidly. As we sailed further and further from the shelter of the land the waves grew The crashing went on and on. It got worse when we rounded Gedser Point; except steeper and higher, more than eight or ten feet we reckoned, plenty big enough for the island of Fehmarn, there was no land to windward for a long way. to rock the boat. We put two reefs in the main and two of us crawled onto the foredeck, lowered the foresail and hoisted the storm jib. Fehmarn is almost a peninsular on the north German Baltic coast; it reduces the strait between Germany and Denmark to a gap about ten miles wide called The

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Fehmarn Belt; frequent ferries cross the Belt and herds of ships gallop through it, heading east or west and, what we didn’t realise at the time, a strong current develops when the wind blows. The port navigation light failed. The prospect of crossing and re-crossing the shipping lanes all night with defective lights was not attractive. I transferred my safety line to the jackstay and crawled forward with screwdriver, pliers and a spare bulb. The wind still howled in the rigging; and the bows, now with me clinging to the pulpit, still buried themselves into every wave. Not much time passed before the few remaining warm, dry bits of my body were cold and wet. And the new bulb didn't work. Nor, it seemed, did the lights on shore; we simply couldn't match what was on the chart with what we could see.

Still, we could tell the difference between land and sea! Trying to sleep or rest down below with the continuous violent motion, the damp Suddenly the lights of a fast moving freighter appeared from behind the headsail. bedding and water sloshing about on the saloon floor was not easy, although I We had to move quickly. Luckily our helmsman chose the right advice: we tacked. must have managed to achieve a state of unconsciousness, because I was The noise of the ship's engines was louder than the howl of the wind as she suddenly woken by a body landing on top of me! It was John, who had been lying passed close astern. in the windward berth against a lee-cloth until Rasmus leapt over a particularly By 0300 it was light, but the seas and the wind, if anything, were heavier; a hank steep wave and fell violently into the following trough. John had been thrown off had parted company with the storm jib and was hanging, useless, on the stay. the bunk and left hanging in mid-air until my side of the boat moved underneath him, upon which he descended - on me. Going below was as much of an ordeal as being on deck. By now most of the bedding was soaking and sleep was not easy to achieve. The fo'c'sle was And the lights were still all wrong. We began to question our navigation. During untenable: rivulets of water flowed in around the wooden forehatch soaking the day we had been beating back and forth between the grey, rain-swept shores everything, and the man with the sledgehammer was still trying to get in. to the south, and Loland in the north, never daring to get too close to the shallows, and unable to positively identify anything. Surely, we concluded, we The human spirit though, rises with the dawn, and the worst conditions are more rnust have made 50 miles to windward by now. bearable when the sun shines: it didn't. It rained all day. Sometimes the sky was so black it made the waves coming towards us look dark and menacing. But we The charted track, even allowing for 15 degrees of leeway, put us 60 miles west of did manage two hot drinks and another sandwich each before it grew dark again, Gedser light, and we'd become familiar with the failure of the lights to match the and what morale boosters they were. characteristics shown on the charts. All through another stormy night we beat back and forth, still smashing into With the dawn we stood on south. We could see no land ahead. Gradually a weak waves and plunging wildly. Keeping a lookout to windward meant cold water sun, slanting through the rain and spray, illuminated a dull, grey shoreline to the running down to replace the warmer dampness of a sweater or vest; we were all west. The sea became less violent and the wind eased. But we knew; we didn't soaked through by now, neck towels sodden and oilskins no longer keeping out want to believe, but we knew without reference to the chart that this was the the water, which didn't make much difference because they were running with east coast of Fehmarn. We were still at the eastern end of the strait, and home condensation anyway. Even our boots were full of water! was still a long way away. We tacked, and the prospect of once more thrashing to windward and dodging the shipping in the Fehmarn Belt was not attractive.

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We’d seen the dull, grey, naval vessel lying under the lee of the low, sandy cliffs, again and we skipped across the waves - at first. The enforced stop did have some but paid it no attention until it moved in our direction. It was a naval patrol advantages, not the least were that we had eaten, and we now knew precisely vessel, a gunboat. where we were. She placed herself half a cable to windward and fired two green starshells. None As we cleared the headland, and met once more the full force of the wind, two of us knew what the signal meant, but when instructions in German, amplified by more hanks flew from the luff of the storm jib. a loud hailer, came rapidly across the water we assumed we were required to We hauled it down and raised the number one; it was too big really, and there stop, though the actual words were lost in the wind. were streamers flying from the leech. But we had no choice. She wouldn’t go to I was at the helm. We tacked again and left the headsail backed, but despite windward at all without a jib of some kind. being in the lee of the land the wind was still strong and nothing I did made much In that watch we took four hours to make one mile to windward. Spirits began to difference to our speed until the skipper slowed us down by easing the main. flag again. More orders blasted out harshly, and men with rifles lined up on the afterdeck; others uncovered the gun on the foredeck. We grew concerned (frightened!). The We beat onwards ’til darkness fell, and still the wind raged against us; Rasmus vessel flew no flag that we could see, and neither the words from the loud-hailer continued to smash her way through the waves, one after another. When the nor our shouted replies had been understood. watch took over at midnight all the old doubts were back; there was a flashing red ahead. Where were we? Down below I shivered for an hour, then blew my An officer on the bridge indicated with sign language that we should follow. The reserves. I'd kept some clothes dry, in plastic bags, for the journey home by car. I engine wouldn’t start, flat batteries again. We sailed into a small bay and wasn't confident that I was ever going to make that journey. So I stripped, rubbed anchored in about fifteen metres. Six of the gunboat's crew came over in a rigid a nearly dry towel over my shivering limbs, and dragged on the dry clothes. inflatable flying a German naval flag at the stem. Was it East or West German? Warmth stole through my body, and I found a patch of sleeping bag that was dry We didn’t know. enough to use as a pillow, and slept. The sailors came aboard and sat in the cockpit. They were smartly dressed in grey Whilst I slept we made some progress. By morning we’d cleared the Fehmarn Belt uniforms and trainers, and wore grey side-caps with a small red badge on the and we could ease the sheets a little; what a difference that made! The speed front. They had rifles on their laps. Apart from Jock and Russ, we were all sent rose, the motion was more comfortable, and it didn't seem long before we were below. rounding the Kiel light, which we did recognise because the light tower is painted With thoughts of getting even hungrier in some foreign jail, I heated up some in bright red and white stripes, and it was daytime! The wind eased as we closed tinned sausages and beans, and made tea. the shore, the sun broke through the clouds, someone produced a cup of tea, and we reached up Kieler Fjord in fine style. Suddenly sailing was fun again! Whilst the oberleutnant checked our passports and made reports on his 'walkie- talkie' (remember, this was 1974) we took advantage of the steady decks to pump We prepared the warps and dropped the sails, and coasted into our mooring. We out and clean up; except for Terry who, tucked in the quarterberth, had so far joked about the trip and made scornful remarks when we heard that two other slept through everything! Now he woke and crawled out of his sleeping bag. club boats had been stormbound in harbour for three days. Without noticing the rest of us in the gloom, he stood up and leaned on the companionway steps. His shock, when he found himself looking down the business end of a rifle only a few inches in front of his nose, caused him to jerk Postscript, with the hindsight of forty+ years and a lot more experience: backwards in surprise, and us to laugh. Rasmus didn’t have a radio and mobile ‘phones weren’t invented (1974 Half hour went by and instructions came through on the radio. We could go! The remember) so, once offshore, we had no access to weather forecasts; inflatable came over and our visitors left with hardly a word. Our sails were raised nevertheless, we should have turned back and sheltered in the lee of Loland; not

Spring 2017 Page 38 The Twister Magazine only was the weather foul and the going rough, possibly endangering the boat, but we hadn't realised that the wind had generated such a strong east-going current through the Fehmarn Belt which, of course, was why it took us so long to Handy Hint 4: Phosphoric Acid is readily available on the beat through the strait. web and in farm shops. It’s used in milking parlours. Those We would have made much better progress had we not tried to sail so close to irritating rust stains on stainless steel blocks and shackles the wind; when you are already making fifteen or twenty degrees of leeway, a will be removed after a few hours soaking in a weak reach has to be a more efficient point of sail and, is a bit more comfortable. solution – say 5%. Don’t leave the items in longer than Sailing at night in coastal waters demands at least a working knowledge of lights; necessary. You may find that you have to wipe away the we should have known that FI R 5s doesn't mean red flashes five seconds long! stain after soaking. Do take care; rubber gloves and eye protection are essential; however it is a relatively weak acid. It will also remove rust from iron and steel items. There is more guidance on the web.

Handy Hint 5: The head of the de-zincified brass screw you are trying to remove has just disintegrated – leaving half the head in place. A solution is to use a sharp chisel [kept for the purpose] to remove the other half. You now have the stub of the screw flush with the wood. Fortunately, you have to hand a power drill and a short length of tubing with an internal diameter just greater than the screw shank. One end of the tube has been primitively sharpened using an oversize drill [carefully] so it has a slightly ragged edge. Use this, in the drill, to excavate an annulus around the shank. This will be easy as the wood will be unsightly and weakened by the corrosion products. You may then be able to work the screw out with a pair of long nose pliers. How you replace the screw is up to you but for some applications a larger diameter wooden dowel will replace the screw. If you use epoxy first use a small syringe to inject un-thickened epoxy in the hole. Injector pipes from old engines are a good source of suitable tubing. PM

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THE CLOCKWISE ROUTE 4 (final instalment) Rod Webb completes a roundabout delivery trip by bringing Speedwell from Norway to the Deben

Bergen It was a relief to get sailing so, rather than resort to the engine, I tacked back and forth against wind and current to get under the road bridge on the way to Bergen harbour. There I stocked up with supplies and my son Robin joined me. This year there was no Elton John concert nearby to attract hoards of motorboats (yes, I had checked), but the Hanseatic maritime festival was starting and most of the quays were reserved for larger vessels than ours.

Our route The story so far: regular readers may recall that Speedwell left her home port in Kinsale, Co Cork, in 2013 in order to relocate to Suffolk and last year she reached Bergen in Norway. That placed her 162 miles rhumb-line distance further from her destination than when she started. What’s more, the 2016 leg of the voyage did not get off to a good start in view of the navigational challenges that lay ahead. I mistakenly took the express bus from Bergen which took me and my overweight baggage two miles past the stop for Bildøy Marina. When I finally got on board, I found that the dehumidifier had not been connected over the winter, Robin Hardangerfjord. Road bridge for scale. leaving a major cleaning job to remove the black mould in addition to the refitting work.

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On our way to Stavanger through the network of inner leads between the islands and the mainland, we headed for a “popular secluded anchorage,” concerned that the small rock-enclosed bay might be full. However, as in many of the places where we dropped anchor, there were no other boats, but there was a strong 4G mobile signal. At Stavanger my wife, Jenny, joined us, enticed to Norway by the promise of a cut-price fjord cruise.

Sunndal Although keen to make progress south, we weren’t going to leave Norway without exploring some fjords. The Hardangerfjord led us into the mountains with snow-capped peaks above us and a distant view of the Folgefonna ice cap. We branched off to Sunndal where we moored to a rickety pontoon belonging to the campsite and, from this base, we hiked up the valley and climbed to 1449m at the edge of the ice cap. The danger of crevasses made it unwise to continue without Robin, me and Jenny Pulpit Rock local knowledge and a rope, so we admired the views over the surrounding In Jorpeland I was hailed by a rather tipsy group of motorboaters holding a drinks mountain ranges and didn’t go any further. party on the pontoon. They wanted to know how I was going to vote in the coming referendum. I replied that in view of our numerous trade and cultural ties, it was much better to be in the EU than out. They didn’t comment, but it was clear the Norwegian perspective, as outsiders, was different. We joined the crowds on the long hike up to the Pulpit Rock, famous from the tourist brochures, but low cloud meant that, peering over the vertical drop, we could barely see the fjord 600m below us. However, when we sailed up the Lysefjord itself on the following day, gazing up at the steep rock walls, the weather was beautifully clear. The granite cliffs were reminiscent of the Yosemite Valley in California. A gentle breeze carried us up to the head of the fjord where we almost gave up attempting to moor until the ferry departed and revealed, not only the dock we had been looking for, but also some new pontoons sheltered from the waves by a breakwater still under construction. Some of the mountains beside the fjord are hollow: vast caverns contain hydroelectric power stations fed from lakes high above. Only a few doors in the rock face betray their presence. Folgefonna ice cap

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David Howes We left Norway from Farsund early on a glorious, but windless, morning. A Norwegian skipper was also up early and helped with our lines as he congratulated us on the recent referendum result. We had been too preoccupied with sailing and planning ahead to dwell much on the enormity of our fellow citizens’ choice. It slipped to the backs of our minds again as we threaded our way between wooded islands before crossing the mouth of the Skagerrak. A shower brought a short-lived wind and a cross sea built up. Eventually, the forecast north- westerly arrived and we settled down to a comfortable sail until a sudden squall surprised us and required a hasty reef. After a lull, the steady north-westerly Lysefjord returned and we made good speed towards Denmark. Back in Stavanger, Jenny and Robin flew home and David Howes came aboard. We had noticed, when we arrived in Norway the previous year, the scarcity of David is a former oilman, so he was able to explain the purpose of the many oil- birds, seals and dolphins compared to Scotland. We knew there were fish because industry vessels based there. We le the inner leads behind and sailed down the Robin had caught some. Now, as we entered Danish waters, the birdlife suddenly coast to Norway’s southern p. On the way, we visited Nesv g, a picturesque became more abundant and later we saw numerous seals on the sandbanks. former fishing port hidden behind a dauntingly narrow gap in the cliffs. There was Ships also became more frequent as we approached northern Jutland and at a restored wooden fishing boat and a museum of marine engines exhibiting a times we were monitoring the bearings of three vessels on potential collision gleaming steam engine and a collection of rusty outboards. courses simultaneously. One ticklish situation was resolved when a tanker altered course to pass astern of us.

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On our voyage down the Danish coast and across the German Bight, we had strong winds more often than not. Rough wet passages were interspersed with days spent weatherbound in port. We put into Esbjerg, another port familiar to David from his oil industry days, where several drilling platforms towered over the marina. It was time for a change of crew, to exchange one David for another. David Howes travelled home and, after a sufficient interval to avoid confusion, my brother David came aboard. Continuing south, the coasts of western Denmark and northern Germany consisted of sandy beaches and dunes punctuated by occasional church towers. There were off-lying shallows and extensive windfarms, both on and off-shore – a complete contrast to the Norwegian coast.

Weatherbound at Thorsminde Before nightfall, the low-lying sandy coast came into view from 15 miles off. It was completely dark by the time we reached Thyborøn, but we followed all the Helgoland Gannets sectored lights, leading lights and buoys successfully into the correct dock. It We took a break on Helgoland, which had been pummelled by the RAF, during would have been a textbook entry, except that we found ourselves cutting close and after the war, before being given back to Germany. All is forgiven now and a across the bows of a dredger, having mistaken all its bright lights for a shore German skipper commiserated with us on the referendum result. He thought structure. We made fast to a concrete wall at 0230 and opened the whisky. Germany was losing an ally, both in arguments against the French and Italians, and also in sharing the financial burden of being a net contributor to the EU, thus unwittingly bolstering the leave case. We took the footpath on top of the sandstone cliffs which wove around the bomb craters and took us up close to the gannets soaring in the gale. Before turning west towards Britain, we crossed to the Frisian archipelago. On the way we hove to, waiting for a clearance in the shipping lane ahead, before realising that the densely clustered ships were actually moored in the adjacent anchorage. Pilotage into the ports we chose for overnight stops proved to be difficult. In Norway, I had navigated using a thick wad of 50,000-scale charts, sometimes with the aid of a magnifier to pick out rocks and narrow channels. I thought that smaller scale charts and the descriptions in the almanac would be sufficient on this less dramatic coast, but in several cases the entrance channels

through the shallows between the islands proved hard to find. Norderney was the Esbjerg most challenging. We found the safewater mark and headed in the direction

Spring 2017 Page 43 The Twister Magazine advised, but came upon shallow water and saw no more buoys. After some With help from the harbourmaster, Speedwell was dried out and we removed the further probing for a gap in the sandbanks we were at a loss, until we saw rudder and attempted a temporary repair. This was unsuccessful, so we sailed, another yacht apparently heading for the beach some distance back east. Not for cautiously, further up the Ems to the tiny harbour at Ditzum, where we left her in the first time we followed a boat that we hoped had better local knowledge than the care of a family-run boatyard that specialises in traditional boats. They were we did. It was indeed following a channel marked by small buoys, but with waves too busy to undertake the repair immediately, so we travelled home by bus, train breaking on the beach close to port and on the sandbanks close to starboard and and ferry, visiting family in Holland on the way, while Speedwell settled into the with less than a metre under the keel, it was scary for a skipper accustomed to silt. the deep waters of Norway. As we rounded the tip of the island, the channel became deeper and, once in port, a shower and several cups of tea restored equilibrium. Norderney is described as an all-tide port; well, if you have nerves of steel it is. It seems that the problem was not so much the scale of the chart, but that the channels between the islands change often and the buoys are frequently relaid. One German skipper in Havneby, trying to be helpful, had given me a large- scale chart of that entrance, but it was 10-years old and bore no relation to the present day channel at all. Even further west when we reached areas covered by our brand new, large-scale Dutch charts, we found significant changes to depths and buoyage.

Vlieland In the mud at Borkum In the mud at Ditzum Speedwell was ready a few weeks later with a new pintle welded to the rudder Continuing west, we motor-sailed into a north-westerly gusting up to Force 7. It frame. Returning down the Ems was harder than sailing up it because the fast was an particularly wet and uncomfortable passage, especially while the tide was flowing tide turns earlier as you approach the sea. I met a solitary harbour with us. The waves eventually proved too much for the rudder and David on the porpoise beneath a huge wind turbine as I entered the industrial port of Delfzijl, helm reported that it had partially jammed. Fortunately we still had sufficient where Robin came aboard again to crew for the Dutch section of the voyage. Back control to reach Borkum safely. In the marina, David dived and waded in the in Borkum, we planned an early departure to try and gain the assistance of two muddy water and discovered that the rudder’s bottom pintle attaching it to the ebb tides and plod against only one flood on the 80-mile passage to Vlieland. aft edge of the keel had broken. [Mike Mills had the same problem, see the Spring There were no convenient intermediate ports. The pitch darkness two hours 2015 issue, p8: Ed] When it came loose, the rudder moved freely again, but with before dawn took us by surprise. We had grown accustomed to the almost the lower part now unsupported it was not strong enough to put to sea safely. continuous daylight at 60⁰N in June. An hour later it was just as dark, but we braved the 3-4 knot cross tide in the channel leading back to the river and almost

Spring 2017 Page 44 The Twister Magazine collided with an unlit channel marker. I had seen it, but it sneaked up close while I and I followed the buoys up the Stanford Channel as the sun was rising, tied up in was looking around for the next one. Only a graceful pirouette worthy of a Lowestoft harbour and soon fell asleep. bullfighter saved the gelcoat from a nasty gash. The ebb sped us down the well-lit Andy, my neighbour in Bawdsey, joined ship for the last leg. He grew up in Ems channel and we continued along the coasts of the Dutch Frisian Islands, Lowestoft and was able to guide me away from the takeaways in the main street passing seals on sandbanks, without further incident. However, when we reached to a pub that did decent food. After an early start, we motored southwards down Vlieland, the marina had closed because it was full. It’s a popular spot and it was the coast, enjoying breakfast in the sunshine. A few months earlier, Jenny and I now mid-August. We joined the other boats that had also arrived too late and had had been walking in the opposite direction on the Suffolk Coastal Footpath. It had a peaceful night anchored nearby. taken four days to reach Lowestoft, not just the morning it was taking us to sail The Wadenzee is more sand than zee and most of the east-west channels inside back, something to do with the River Alde being in the way. We timed our arrival the Frisian Islands are too shallow for a fixed-keel yacht even at high tide. But we at Woodbridge Haven for late morning so that we could enter the Deben with the were able to cut inside Vlieland and Texel to Den Helder by timing it carefully. Yet last of the flood and we picked up Sp dw ’ new mooring at Felixstowe Ferry. again, it differed from the chart and the shallowest section was beyond the Her four year voyage from Ireland to her new home in Suffolk was at an end. position shown. Robin had to return home when we reached Ijmuiden, where Speedwell had her first ever visit by officialdom. The immigration police came on Miles from Suffolk at start of 2016 cruise: 530 (as the seagull flies) board and asked to see her documents. They checked our passports and asked for Miles sailed: 585 proof of ownership and registration and I was embarrassed to find that I had Miles motored: 643 taken those documents home while she was being repaired in Germany. Miles from Suffolk at end of cruise: 0 Fortunately they were satisfied with noting her SSR number and call sign and Total miles logged since leaving Kinsale, Ireland: 2966 remained friendly and polite throughout. I waited in Ijmuiden for some strong easterlies to pass and then set off at midday for a fine afternoon sailing in the sunshine. I crossed the shipping lanes to Rotterdam and North Hinder where I had expected to meet most traffic in daylight, but saw only two or three ships. As forecast, the wind faltered and eventually died as evening approached, so the engine was on for the rest of the way to Lowestoft. As the sun set, it caught the slight haze in a way that created the illusion of fog banks, which was rather alarming. It was fortunate that the night turned out to be very clear, because a few hours later I encountered the densest shipping I’ve ever seen following the deep water routes and had to make extended course alterations to avoid the ships streaming past. Another vessel in the area was carrying a huge vertical structure festooned with bright white lights that obscured any navigation lights. Initially it was making little progress and I thought it could be a gas rig like the one I had passed earlier. When I noticed this Blackpool Tower again, after concentrating on avoiding more conventional ships, it had come much closer. Still no navigation lights were visible, but now I knew it was coming my way because I could see the bow wave even in the dark. At this point, pressing on was as good as turning back; besides Speedwell was the stand- on vessel, so with full throttle I passed uncomfortably close ahead of a ship showing confusing lights for a second time. The rest of the night was less eventful Contents

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