FIGHT CITY How Las Vegas became the boxing capital of

LOOKING UP IN RED PLANET The truth about the Soviet Why Hawaii is so vital to the mission to Mars, LUPITA NYONG’O and how it’s testing An insider’s guide to Nairobi astronauts to the limit

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EDITOR-IN- MANAGING PARTNER & EDITORIAL CHIEF GROUP EDITOR DIRECTOR OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER IAN FAIRSERVICE GINA JOHNSON [email protected]

GROUP SENIOR SENIOR SENIOR EDITOR EDITOR ART DIRECTOR DESIGNER

MARK EVANS ANDREW NAGY OLGA PETROFF ROUI FRANCISCO [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

DIGITAL SUB EDITORIAL ANIMATOR EDITOR ASSISTANT

SURAJIT DUTTA SALIL KUMAR LONDRESA FLORES [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

IAIN AKERMAN, CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND, EMMA COILER, GARY EVANS, SARAH FREEMAN, JOE MORTIMER, LISA SCHWARZBAUM, SEAN WILLIAMS, CHRIS YOUNG COVER: NEIL LEIFER

GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION CHIEF COMMERCIAL GROUP SALES PRODUCTION MANAGER OFFICER MANAGER

SUNIL KUMAR R MURALI KRISHNAN ANTHONY MILNE MICHAEL UNDERDOWN [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION SENIOR SALES MANAGER MANAGER

BINU PURANDARAN MICHELLE QUINN [email protected] [email protected]

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES EDITOR ARABIC EDITOR DEPUTY EDITOR MANNA TALIB HATEM OMAR CATHERINE FREEMAN

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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133,095 copies Media One Tower, Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE January – June 2017 Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

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OS83.P06-11_FrontSection.indd 6 12/20/17 5:08 PM Now make/receive calls &enjoydataabroad new roaming packs Roam worry-free withour Dial These plansareavailableforbothconsumerandbusinesscustomers. available fordaily, weeklyormonthlyuseinmorethan100 countries. plenty ofminutestomakeandreceivecallsinadditionmobiledata, roaming bundlesoffersyouacompletecommunicationexperiencewith Staying connectedabroadiseasierwithEtisalat.Ournewrangeof

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CONTENTS

INTRO

14 18 20 22 26 28 32 39 EXPERIENCE THE YEAR OF TASTE STAY TRAVEL DISPATCH NEIGHBOURHOOD COLUMN ZAYED ESSENTIAL

FEATURES

42 50 58 FIGHT CITY LIFE ON MARS STALKING MOZART

BRIEFING

67 70 72 74 82 88 90 NEWS INSIDE DESTINATION VISA, COMFORT, ROUTE THE CELEBRITY EMIRATES AND SMART GATE MAP FLEET DIRECTIONS

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EDITOR’S NOTE ON THE COVER

FIGHT CITY When it comes to photographing boxing, Neil Leifer is something of a legend. His shot of the Rumble in the Jungle represents part of boxing’s power shift from New York to Las Vegas – by way of Zaire.

When Floyd Mayweather Jr. and Conor McGregor fought in Las Vegas late last year for The Money Belt, it represented boxing’s relationship with the city in microcosm. The belt itself was encrusted with 1.5kg of 24-karat gold, 3,360 diamonds, 600 sapphires and 300 emeralds. The fight, meanwhile, was a face-melting display of showmanship, sleight of hand and, for some at least, sophisticated grifting. Although the numbers behind it were staggering (Mayweather was SOCIAL MEDIA guaranteed US$100 million minimum, McGregor US$30 million), the

show itself was nothing new. The sweet science is increasingly defined facebook.com/ by its place on the Strip, with Caesars Palace – where George Foreman openskiesmag slugged it out with Ron Lyle in 1976 to put the city firmly on the boxing

map – looming large in the background. twitter.com/ But while boxing and Vegas seem a natural fit, our cover story on openskiesmag page 42 explains why this wasn’t always the case, and how its power

play came by way of Kinshasa, Caracas and a touch of Mafia corruption. instagram.com/ But if this game is known for anything it’s the potential to upset the openskiesmag odds; and those resting on their laurels can get dumped on the canvas pretty quick. Could Vegas face a battle from places such as Macau and Dubai in 2018 to retain its crown? ANDREW NAGY ALSO AVAILABLE SENIOR EDITOR ON YOUR IPAD

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EXPERIENCE • TASTEINTRO • STAY • NEIGHBOURHOOD • COLUMN

FESTIVAL OF FIRE Travellers to Scotland should visit Lerwick in Shetland for Up Helly Aa – the annual tribute to its Viking heritage.

SHETLAND, SCOTLAND | UPHELLYAA.ORG Turn over to plan your month

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OS83.P13_Intro Cover.indd 13 12/20/17 5:11 PM THE PLAN Events to aim for this month

JAN. 4-16 TORUK THE FIRST FLIGHT Artistic director Hugo Martins explains how his Cirque du Soleil show will be out of this world

WORDS: Andrew Nagy

What can we expect? This is a unique show by Cirque du Soleil based on James Cameron’s record-breaking movie, Avatar. It’s 3,000 years before the events of the film and we follow three Na’vi teenagers as they set out on a quest through Pandora to save their race from extinction. How do you tell the story? We go big! We use the entire floor, and the set – which is over 20,000 square feet – is covered in projections creating a canvas that’s bigger than five IMAX screens. What should we look out for? We created the giant loom, a seven- metre-high structure that includes gymnastic high bars, specifically for the show. We also have a bone structure that’s a giant revolving skeleton seesaw. Our athletes do a mix of balancing and contortion on top as it moves and spins around. How many people are involved? The show travels with approximately 100 people from 22 different countries, including a multicultural cast of 41 talented artists. They come from all over the world, and from different disciplines like gymnastics, roughly five years from inception Which part do you love most? circus arts, dancing, capoeira, martial to our premiere. There are so many It’s difficult for me to say, but what I arts, juggling and diving. aspects, from creating storyline and really enjoy is the show’s emotional How long does it take to create a costume, to makeup, the set build, component and message. It show like this? rehearsals and much more before relates to the importance of being This was no easy task. It took you’re able to start the tour. connected with each other and

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FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION...

JAN. 5-8 THE EMIRATES FA CUP There are some big games this month, (Liverpool vs. Everton derby anyone?), but if you’re looking at the potential for some classic Third Round giant-killing, then Fleetwood or Hereford vs. Leicester City could be your best bet.

ENGLAND-WIDE | THEFA.COM

JAN. 10-17 WINTER JAZZFEST This month’s Winter Jazzfest is sure to warm any visitor to NYC, courtesy of six days featuring the freshest new jazz acts in the world. Be sure to check out Giles Peterson’s British Jazz Showcase, which opens the event on January 10.

NEW YORK CITY | WINTERJAZZFEST.COM

JAN. 18-28 SUNDANCE FILM FESTIVAL The biggest independent film festival in the US is a Robert Redford-chaired monster of an event in Lake City, Utah. Expect a crowd of 40,000 plus, including cinema lovers, aspiring moviemakers and A-list stars.

UTAH, USA | SUNDANCE.ORG

JAN. 25-28 DUBAI DESERT CLASSIC Originally the first European Tour event to be staged in the Middle East, it has attracted some of the biggest names in golf to the Majlis course at Emirates Golf Club. Go this month to see the current elite battling for the US$3 million prize fund. with our planet, reminding us that everyone counts and can make a EMIRATES GOLF CLUB | contribution in any challenge we OMEGADUBAIDESERTCLASSIC.COM may have to face. Catch highlights of the 2017 Omega Dubai Desert Classic and more from European Tour Golf on channel 1156 on ice | CIRQUEDUSOLEIL.COM Digital Widescreen.

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JAN. 1 JAY-Z ZERO PROBLEMS A new year can be tough, so IN 2018 Open Skies went to the King of New York for words on how to tackle 2018 like a champion

WORDS: Emma Coiler

I need a January plan Jay-Z says: My advice would be to not put things off. It’s easy to have a dream, but then invent reasons as to why it’s not quite the right time to do it. The right time is now. I’m launching a new business venture this year. Any advice? Jay-Z says: You’ve got to back yourself. You have to believe in what you are doing, because if you don’t, how can you expect investors or anybody else to? I want to reinvent my brand in 2018 Jay-Z says: Brands are an extension of you – and that’s important. If you’re selling a product with no emotional attachment it doesn’t work. Keep it real – the consumer buys into a product that’s real. I want to start 2018 eating healthy – but how do I stay on track? Jay-Z says: I’ve done a plant-based detox before RESOLUTE IDEAS Let the three most popular resolutions guide your January diary in Dubai – it’s good for the body and mind – and actually isn’t as difficult as you might think. A cheat day is OK, though; I’m from Brooklyn and we have the best pizza in the country. 1 2 3 I’m just looking for some solid advice to start the year with confidence Jay-Z says: Warren Buffett once said to me: YOU WANT TO: YOU WANT TO: YOU WANT TO: Get in shape Change your image Try something new ‘Taxes and inflation can’t take your talent away TRY THE: TRY THE: TRY THE: from you.’ Essentially I think he was saying that, Dubai Marathon or 10km Dubai Shopping Festival Quoz Art Fest even in a volatile market, be confident; talent will JANUARY 26, UNTIL JANUARY 27, JANUARY 26-27, always shine through. DUBAIMARATHON.ORG VISITDUBAI.COM ALSERKALAVENUE.AE How can I stay true to my New Year’s resolutions? Jay-Z’s album 4.44 is playing in Recent Releases in Music and CDs on ice. Jay-Z says: It’s pretty simple. I came from a place The album is his 13th consecutive studio album to top the US chart, and where all you had was your word. If you say you received eight Grammy nominations at the 60th annual awards. are going to do something, then do it.

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524344 THE YEAR OF ZAYED

WELCOME TO THE YEAR OF ZAYED Throughout 2018, Open Skies will celebrate 100 years since the birth of the UAE’s founding father, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, sharing stories from his life and explaining how you can see his vision in action

WORDS: Andrew Nagy IMAGE: Genevieve Chauvel

To understand the Negotiations were long and go on to revolutionise the country significance of 2018 hard but, almost three years later, by virtue of bold leadership, as The Year of Zayed, on December 2, 1971, the United tolerance and inspired ideas. 54.3773° E 54.3773° 24.4539° N, N, 24.4539° ABU DHABIABU you need to go back to Arab Emirates was formed between His legacy is one that you can February 1968, and a Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, now celebrate each month in the meeting in desert highland on Sharjah and Umm Al Quwain – with pages of Open Skies. the border between Dubai and Ras Al Khaimah joining in early 1972.

Abu Dhabi. Sheikh Zayed was appointed the MAIN IMAGE TAKEN FROM FATHER OF It was there that Abu Dhabi nation’s first president and would OUR NATION | BOOKSARABIA.COM Ruler Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, and Dubai Ruler Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum Sheikh Zayed livery shook hands on the principle of Check the side of your plane if you can founding a federation to replace the today; it could well feature Emirates’ withdrawing British government. bespoke livery in tribute to Sheikh Their plan would see other Trucial Zayed. A total of ten Emirates aircraft States invited to join forces with carry the decal – five Airbus A380s and them and create a nation. five Boeing 777-300ERs.

VISIT ZAYED CENTRE Based in an Emirati heritage village in Abu Dhabi, Zayed Centre offers an insight into the man who shaped the nation, with visitors able to walk around ‘Sheikh Zayed’s house’ – a hall filled with a number of his personal artefacts, including his favourite blue Mercedes. AL BATEEN DISTRICT, ABU DHABI | +971 2 665 9555

DID YOU KNOW? Throughout the late 1920s and early ’30s, Sheikh Zayed headed into the desert, living alongside Bedouin tribesmen to learn about their way of life and connection with their surroundings.

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OS83.P18-19_Zayed.indd 18 12/20/17 9:16 PM What is The Year of Zayed? To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the birth of the UAE’s founding father, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, 2018 will see 12 months of programmes and events to honour his life and legacy.

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DUBAI THE RYOKAN STUFF Japanese restaurant Kohantei places quality above all else

LONDON PARK CHINOIS Your Chinese New Year celebrations sorted

In the heart of London’s Mayfair, Park Chinois is a stylish nod to the Shanghai of the 1930s, with a stunning interior harking back Its style is understated. “Kohantei is to a golden age of the city known Dubai’s first kaiseki restaurant, and a as “wicked old Paris of the Orient”. small but extremely personal dining Nominally a dim sum experience,” says owner Benjamin Ng. restaurant, but with an array of “We’re trying to remind people of the progressive Chinese dishes, house fundamentals of a fine dining experience: favourites include duck de chine, produce perfectly sourced, handled with grilled XO black cod and Chilean the utmost care in transit, and lovingly Wagyu ribeye beef – along with prepared with the respect it’s due.” an expertly curated wine list. It was built from scratch – a house inside a Start with drinks at the bar building. “Kaiseki is served in a traditional bid for authenticity,” continues Ng. before heading downstairs for Japanese inn (ryokan) or a restaurant “Japanese architects, full Japanese team, dinner, replete with live music (ryotei),” explains Ng. “To replicate this we tatami flooring, shoji screen, even the Toto and cabaret – including Disney built an entire house, roof tiles included, to toilets. Finally, we get produce from Japan characters recreating fables with preserve the essence of kaiseki.” twice a week. No expense was spared to a modern twist. Everything is authentic. “We could have preserve the purity of Japanese hospitality.” If you’re in town between only achieved this with an almost fanatical DISTRICT | KOHANTEI.AE February 15 and 20, be sure to book a table for their special celebrations for Chinese New Year. Serious beef 17 BERKELEY STREET, LONDON | How Kohantei comes with major approval PARKCHINOIS.COM If you’d like to know just how serious they take their produce in Japan, ask Kohantei owner Ben Ng to tell you a story about when he was sent to a hidden restaurant at a secret location. It resulted in, not only the best eating experience of his life (“the Want to learn more about the top restaurants in Dubai? Check out finest cuts of beef were presented, carved, grilled in a traditional earthen pot and served at the Dubai Restaurants podcast, channel the optimal temperature”), but also a test to see if he was worthy of selling the nation’s most 1506 on ice. revered beef. A phone call two days later telling him, “OK, we deal” was proof that he was.

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GERMANY THE DESIGN LOVER’S DREAM A stylishly dark and brooding hotel in the centre of Frankfurt, Roomers is anything but a corporate hangout

WORDS: Christopher Beanland

Dark, mysterious and alluring – Roomers is a hotel that will live long in 8.6821° E 8.6821° 50.1109° N 50.1109°

FRANKFURT the memory after even the shortest of stays. The minimal noir aesthetic created by Oana Rosen in Frankfurt’s most prestigious design hotel is bolstered by neat touches such as the Cavalli A spa with style swan-style chairs, stainless steel Designed by Germany’s 3Deluxe and black stone bathrooms, Architects, the contemporary design of the gym, saunas, hot tubs and and atmospheric lighting. outdoor terrace – with 360-degree But while the mood is pleasantly views of Frankfurt – is a jaw-dropping dark, everything else is warm proposition. Finished in the finest and welcoming, from the award- woods, it’s a perfect place to relax after winning Roomers Bar to the a hard day’s business. outstanding breakfast buffet, that offers shakshuka, healthy convenient as well as classy. But dips, Mediterranean spreads and it’s the styling of the place that’s vegan walnut cheese, all available the real winner – like its sisters until 1pm at weekends – truly in Baden Baden and Munich, wonderful if you’re a night owl. Frankfurt’s Roomers is opulent, Centrally located near the sophisticated and something Hauptbahnhof, and with to really write home about. valet parking too, Roomers is ROOMERS-FRANKFURT.COM

FRANKFURT WHILE YOU’RE IN FRANKFURT Brutalist architecture is firmly in vogue at the moment, so check out the beasts of the SOS Brutalism exhibition at the German National Architecture Museum in Frankfurt. It’s just across the River Main from Roomers and runs until April 2018. SOSBRUTALISM.ORG

Emirates flies to Frankfurt three times daily.

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SWITZERLAND ANDERMATT 2.0 At the heart of the mission to rejuvenate this sleepy Alpine village, you’ll find The Chedi Andermatt

WORDS: Joe Mortimer

Jean-Michel Gathy’s ANDERMATT

blend of chalet chic and Asian elegance somehow 8.5936° E 8.5936°

46.6339° N 46.6339° works exceptionally ANDERMATT well in the mountain setting of Andermatt, where miles of new ski runs welcome their first skiers this season. Emirates serves two destinations in Switzerland: Zurich and Geneva. Choose Here at the first European from twice daily A380 service to Zurich, and outpost of The Chedi, warm timber twice daily flights to Geneva operated by Emirates’ newest Boeing 777-300ERs. and local art fill the moodily lit suites, and glass and steel wood-burners keep guests cosy in The Bar & Living Room: your venue for off-piste downtime. and it’s hard to resist the five-metre- Half-wrapped in glass windows tall cheese cellar in The Restaurant. that frame the mountains, the But for full destination immersion, 35-metre pool is a thing of book a table in The Chalet, a rustic beauty, and the 12-metre outdoor Alpine hut where truffled fondue section is a prime spot for deep is served on traditional red and thoughts under falling snow. white tablecloths. You can’t get The Chedi’s Asian roots are much more Swiss than that. evident in The Japanese Restaurant, THECHEDIANDERMATT.COM

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SKI WITHOUT LESSONS Only to be used in emergency slope situations

LEARN TO MOVE Push yourself along flat terrain by keeping the skis parallel and pushing yourself forward with use of the poles.

PICK THE RIGHT SLOPE Know your colours: green is easy, blue intermediate, black diamond is difficult and double black diamond (sometimes with an exclamation mark) is for experts only.

LEARN TO STOP Spread the tips of your skis apart to stop slipping backwards, and then the backs apart to stop yourself sliding forwards.

IF YOU’RE GOING TO FALL When possible, fall uphill and to your side, with your hip and shoulder absorbing the impact. Always wear a helmet.

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BLAZING A TRAIL Three stunning hikes to TRAVEL ESSENTIALS tackle on your travels For those set to walk some of the world’s glorious hiking trails in 2018, we offer a stylishly sturdy boot

LONG GAME Durable enough to see BASH-PROOF you through a tough Thanks to the scuff- hike, but stylish enough resistant, pebble grain to tackle a brunch. leather, there’s no terrain you can’t tackle, safe in the knowledge that you’ll still look sharp on the descent.

1 Appalachian Trail, US The longest hiking-only footpath in the world, this epic 3,500km trail passes through 14 states, and requires you take on wilderness and traverse towns and rivers.

FEET FIRST The Vibram rubber lug soles with foam midsole mean that 2 no matter how many Haute Route, Switzerland kilometres you clock, This stunning 180km hike between Chamonix you’ll still feel good. and Zermatt in Switzerland takes around 10 days and offers both snow-capped glaciers and lush green valleys. THE BOOT Moncler, THE BOOT THE HIKE Peak Pebble- It’s January, so indulge that nagging new-year obligation to get Grain Leather Hiking Boot fi t by getting out onto a hiking trail. This works on two important Dhs2,597 levels. Firstly, you’ll get to see some of the most spectacular scenery in the world and, secondly, it means you can push any Explore thoughts of joining a Crossfi t class far from your mind. nature If you’re visiting the UAE, then a trip to Hatta – the rocky and wildlife on today’s northern region of Dubai – is a must. With the fi rst phase of Hatta flight with Hiking now open, you can wander this spectacular mountain Wildlife TV on channels 1190- region on a 12km trail. The fi rst 9km passes through tourist spots 1196, and four 3 breathtaking such as Hatta Heritage Village before hitting a second, 3km trail wildlife that leads to the Hatta dam. The area will eventually feature four Tongariro Northern Circuit, documentaries from trails ranging from easy to tough. New Zealand Disneynature Of course, the fi rst thing you’ll need is a decent pair of hiking This hike will take you deep into the Tongariro on channels National Park UNESCO Heritage Site, and a 460-463. boots. We can help you there. journey of glacial valleys, volcanic landscapes MRPORTER.COM and green countryside.

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RUSSIA MOSCOW AND THE No visitor to the Russian capital can avoid the glare of these giant Gothic temples to the ambition of the former Soviet Union

WORDS: Sean Williams

Moscow has always required a certain The skyscrapers performed a range of duties:

robustness to survive. Often cold and two were hotels, two were government offices occasionally unfriendly, a toughness is and two were apartment blocks to the USSR’s MOSCOW 37.6173° E 37.6173° 55.7558° N N 55.7558° needed to navigate its streets. elite. The seventh, the However, recent years have seen a Building, has remained an academic centre distinct thawing in the Russian capital. Moscow throughout its history. It was the tallest building today feels rid of its moodiness, which makes it in the world outside New York City when it was a great time to explore the history of one of the built, and Europe’s tallest building until 1990, world’s most unique empires. when it was overtaken by Frankfurt’s MesseTurm While the list of potential sites to visit here is (Trade Fair Tower). long, there are seven buildings that ring-fence An Eighth Sister, the Zaryadye , central Moscow and elicit excitement and fear, was conceived but never built. When Stalin died both for their imposing grandeur and for what in 1953 it was decided that the building would they represented when they were first built. overshadow its neighbour, the Kremlin, and a The Seven Sisters is a group of Gothic low-slung, ultra-modern hotel was constructed skyscrapers commissioned by former Soviet on the spot instead. The building’s plans were leader to celebrate communist not wasted, however, and were put to use as the splendour. They loom above shopping precincts, blueprint for Warsaw’s Palace of Culture and bridges and apartment blocks. Many are still of Science, which remains Poland’s tallest building. vital importance to the city, each has become as The long spires that crown each Sister were emblematic a sight as any in Moscow, and their allegedly an afterthought, added when Stalin history is as fascinating as it is tragic. HIGH-RISE Following Soviet victory in the Second World Moscow has become Europe’s high-rise capital. Here are the continent’s tallest skyscrapers War, Stalin wanted people to visit Moscow as 400m tourists. But the city’s low-slung skyline worried him. “What if they come to Moscow and don’t see 300m any skyscrapers,” he allegedly complained. So 200m government architects took cues from the towers that had sprung up in pre-war Manhattan. 100m The first foundations of the Seven Sisters –

Muscovites call them the Vysotniye Zdaniye, 00m which means the Tall Buildings – were laid in 1947, 800 years after Moscow was founded. The Shard, Mercury Tower, OKO South Tower, Federation Tower, London (309.7m) Moscow (338.8m) Moscow (354.1m) Moscow (373.7m) Taking six years to complete, they epitomise the ambition of the Soviet empire, and the people on Emirates flies twice daily to Moscow’s Domodedovo International Airport – both flights are operated by the Emirates A380. whose backs it was built.

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OS83.P28-29_Dispatch.indd 28 12/20/17 5:29 PM How to embrace Soviet nostalgia Three ways to revisit Moscow’s Soviet past

MUSEUM OF SOVIET SLOT MACHINES Alexander Stakhanov rescued his first arcade machine in 2005. Now he owns dozens in a brightly coloured museum off the pretty Kuznetsky Most Street. 15KOP.RU

BUNKER 42 This decommissioned nuclear bunker in southeast Moscow pays homage to mid-century atom bomb paranoia. BUNKER42.COM decided that all his buildings should have one Almost 30 years since the fall of the Soviet to differentiate them from the towers of the US. Union, the Sisters have become focal points When he died, the Sisters’ architects asked his for communist nostalgia that has, in some successor Nikita Khrushchev to remove them quarters, become cool in modern . “The and return the buildings to their original designs. Soviet wedding cake high-rise buildings that Khrushchev refused, wanting them to remain as dominate Moscow’s skyline, which seemed a “monument to Stalin’s stupidity”. grim and overbearing in Soviet times, have Today the buildings have stayed true to their now acquired a sort of retro-imperial chic,” original purpose: the two government buildings wrote Richard Lourie, an American writer and are still in use, as are the hotels Radisson Royal Russian history scholar. GASTRONOME NO 1 and the Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya. The Whatever their legacy, the Seven Sisters This supermarket, in the famous GUM department store two apartment buildings are now the homes of are an iconic fixture in the city and, as such, off Red Square, stocks a host of Moscow’s style elite, and towering emblems of represent an unmissable part of any trip to the USSR-era food and homeware. the city’s shift to market capitalism. Russian capital today. GUMRUSSIA.COM

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UAE SUPERSTORE OF THE FUTURE How Expo 2020 Dubai will ensure every visitor takes home the perfect memory

WORDS: Iain Akerman

souvenirs, regional food such as EXPO 2020 TEA? chocolate, dates and Arabic coffee, DON’T MIND IF WE DO and fragrances. Amongst them are Little Majlis, an online creative community for local independent artists, and Gallery One. Within the Expo 2020 site there will be about 7,000 square metres of retail space for licensed products, including the Expo 2020 ‘Superstore of the Future’. “We want to ensure we have the perfect souvenir for every single visitor to Expo 2020 Dubai,” said Anita Chandler, director of licensing and retail at Expo 2020. “Whether it’s a limited edition commemorative coin, a piece of art, handwoven textiles or something While it’s been well The licensed product range will as simple as an Expo 2020

documented that Expo include everything from apparel, passport. We want the Superstore 2020 Dubai could bring headwear, backpacks, magnets, of the Future to be a ‘must-do’ part DUBAI 55.2708° E 55.2708° 25.2048° N N 25.2048° around 25 million visits, keychains, coffee mugs, regional of every visitor’s experience at provide 300,000 jobs and food and fragrances, to high-end Expo 2020 by creating a customer deliver an estimated US$34 million leather goods, artisan products and experience that sets a new industry economic boost, it’s the fi ner details collectible medallions made from benchmark. With the largest that go towards making all of the precious metals. The range will showcasing of Expo 2020 licensed above possible. also include back-to-school items, products, it will also highlight Expo 2020 has now developed toys, games, fi gurines and other what can be achieved when a a licensing strategy to cater to the products for children. large number of companies work millions of visitors who will arrive To date, eight UAE-based licensees collaboratively on a single brand. and want to purchase a keepsake of have been appointed, with the “Just as importantly, we aspire to their experience in Dubai. companies to develop Expo 2020 form mutually profi table relationships The event organisers are busy with all our licensees – delivering establishing licensing partnerships sustainable growth for every company with approximately 70 companies, that enters into a licensing partnership all of whom will produce licensed with Expo 2020, while generating products bearing the Expo 2020 revenues that contribute to Dubai logo and its mascot, which is due to hosting a successful World Expo.” be launched by the end of 2018. EXPO2020DUBAI.AE

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OS83.P30-31_Expo.indd 30 12/20/17 5:33 PM Smile all the stay.

All our hotels are in dreamlike settings, but if we can go the extra step, rest assured that we have what it takes to surprise you, over and over again, so you’ll keep wondering what’s next?

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LUX_Advert_Emirates_Issue Jan18_Eng.indd 1 12/11/17 3:37 PM 32 / OPEN SKIES

OS83.P32-36_Neighbourhood.indd 32 12/20/17 1:59 PM NEIGHBOURHOOD

VENUE INDICATOR WARSAW SHOPPING DRINK CULTURE FOOD SPORT HOTEL A SHADE OF WARSAW If the city was a colour There are over 100 monuments

There are six beaches

28 per cent of the city is green space It would be this

POLAND SASKA KĘPA, WARSAW

WORDS AND IMAGES: Sarah Freeman

Nestled on Warsaw’s right bank,

Saska Kępa is one of the Polish capital’s few neighbourhoods that WARSAW 21.0122° E 21.0122° 52.2297° N, N, 52.2297° wasn’t fl attened in the Second World War, leaving a legacy of modernist buildings that are arguably its greatest treasure. Small townhouses created by fi ne architects are intersected by grand 20th century manor houses – harking back to a time when the neighbourhood was a weekend destination for the bourgeoisie. Settled by Dutch farmers in 1628, Saska or a bite to eat at one of Francuska’s informal Kępa didn’t become part of Warsaw proper Hungarian, Greek, Vietnamese, Italian or until 1916. It still feels like a small village on Indian food joints. From here you can explore the edge of a big city, often referred to as the its lime and maple tree-shaded side streets “local Williamsburg”. It’s also a magnet for the for modernist homes. Don’t be surprised if you capital’s creative community, who fi rst put down fi nd yourself on Grecka or Koreanska – Saska roots here in the 1920s. Polish contemporary is the zip code for around 17 embassies, which composer Witold Lutosławski and sculptor occupy some of the district’s most impressive Stanisław Sikora are just a few of the notable villas (and dictate the road names). names who have been artists-in-residence here. One of the neighbourhood’s greatest, Visiting Saska Kępa is less about striking albeit seasonal, assets is its beach. Located off a list of tourist sights and more about being right on the banks of the Vistula, it boasts a local for the day. Take a walk down its main sweeping views of downtown, and is just promenade, Francuska Street and grab a coffee another reason why Saska Kępa is more under F30’s colourful canopy of umbrellas, than worth the tram ride over the river.

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START 1. SKARYSZEWSKI PARK Next door to the National Stadium is Warsaw’s largest urban park, designed by the famous Warsaw gardener Franciszek Szanior. Originally laid out for horse-drawn carriages, its shady boulevards are perfect for rollerblading, cycling or just taking a stroll. Hankering for a late breakfast? Stock up on pastries at cosy Café Misianka – don’t let the fact it was a former public lavatory put you off. There’s also a rose garden, several waterfalls, a warren of trails and the park’s showpiece, Lake Kamionkowskie, which comes to life in the summer when you can rent boats and kayaks.

ALEJA WASZYNGTONA | 00-999 WARSZAWA

ELEVEN- MINUTE TAXI RIDE

SEVEN- MINUTE TAXI RIDE 2. HUMOR VINTAGE STORE This quirky interior shop, inspired by Bauhaus, is an unexpected find on an otherwise nondescript, residential street. Vintage 20th century furniture designed by Charles Eames, Ingmar Relling and Bruno Mathsson is artfully curated alongside more contemporary, playful accessories. Co-owners Joanna Maria Kuś and Paweł Panzer handpick their eclectic stock of chesterfield sofas and neon-hued gnomes from Denmark, Norway, Italy, Germany and Sweden.

UL. WALECZNYCH 68 | SASKA KĘPA | +48 534 313 009

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Be prepared for wafts of fresh chocolate from the neighbouring E. Wedel Factory (famed Polish confectioner) to linger over Saska Kępa

3. VEGAN RAMEN SHOP Merging two food trends is no easy task, but if the daily queue here is anything to go by, then

the experiment has been a resounding success. The former pop-up-turned-street-food-style- DID YOU KNOW? restaurant dishes up Japanese comfort food in the heart of residential Saska Kępa. Patrons slurp The world’s narrowest house down on complex bowls of ramen from levitating shelves-slash-tables stacked with Japanese – The Keret House – is located on Żelazna street. paraphernalia. The interior may look Scandinavian, but the menu is 100 per cent Japanese, It’s 92 centimetres at its featuring authentic ingredients such as watermelon turnip, enoki and mung sprouts. Try the clear narrowest point, and 152 centimetres at its widest. shoyu ramen – a light broth made of six types of fleshy mushrooms, with a side of nattō (fermented soy beans), rounded off with black coconut ice cream. Emirates flies daily to Warsaw with the Boeing 777-300ER. FINLANDZKA 12 A | 03-903 WARSZAWA

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4. DOM FUNKCJONALNY This modernist inter-war house was a true labour of love and designed by the Polish architect Czesław Przybylski for his sculptor friend Mieczysław Lubelski. The studio area has been transformed into the popular restaurant Kuchnia Funkcjonalna, while the topsy-turvy building houses two main galleries. BWA Warszawa showcases contemporary art exhibits, whilst Asymetria is devoted to Polish artistic and historical photography by renowned snappers such as Zofia Rydet and Tomasz Sikora.

JAKUBOWSKA 16/3 | 03-902 WARSZAWA | +48 600 230 303 | DOMFUNKCJONALNY.ORG

Check out house 37 on ul. Walecznych. The wooden structure is supposedly the oldest house in the neighbourhood, circa 1880

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5. KWIACIARNIA Following your nose to the nearest florist FOUR- MINUTE isn’t hard in Saska Kępa since there is one TAXI RIDE practically on every block. For the best blooms, head to neighbourhood favourite Kwiaciarnia. Prices range from three to 200 złoty.

END FRANCUSKA 22 | 03-906 WARSAW | +48 22 616 24 56

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OS83.P32-36_Neighbourhood.indd 37 12/20/17 2:00 PM Individual Holistic Wellness

The goal of The Peak Health Retreat is to gain a new understanding of your body’s potential and assist you in achieving substantive and sustainable transformative changes. In conjunction with our highly acclaimed Advisory Board, knowledge transfer is a critical element of what we do; from workshops to in-depth research reports and tools to take home, we aim to bring new awareness and understanding to what it means to live a life of peak health and wellness. Practice makes habit and our retreat programme is built around instilling habits by using methodologies based on the principles of sustainable transformation.

At the core of the Peak Health Method is a holistic, personalized approach to creating lasting lifestyle changes through our unique Lifestyle Quadrant method. The Lifestyle Quadrant focuses on the interrelation of four key areas; Physical Fitness, Diet and Nutrition, Sleep Quality and Mental Wellness.

Through the Peak Health Method, we teach you how to boost metabolism, increase insulin sensitivity and help balance the body’s functions through diet, exercise and lifestyle changes. We help you address each of the four areas by optimizing both fuel and function in the body to create, support and improve overall wellbeing and achieve your PEAK HEALTH.

You will leave with demonstrable results, feeling rejuvenated but also with an understanding of how to better support the functions of your body for optimal weight management, improved sleep, enhanced mental focus and increased energy.

WWW.PEAKHEALTH.CH [email protected] TEL: +41 27 958 1358 THE CAPRA, LOMATTENSTRASSE 6, CH-3906 SAAS-FEE, SWITZERLAND COLUMN

SEASONAL DISORDER Dom Joly has a rule for tackling winter delays: make a production company foot the bill

IMAGE: Adam Patterson

co-host, who lived in Newfoundland. He got snowed in – and I mean seriously snowed in. This left me in Miami for five days before he finally joined us. You can only imagine what an awful time I had. It’s not always snow that holds you up, either. I had to stay in Los Angeles for an extra week back in 2010 because the snappily named Icelandic volcano (Eyjafjallajökull) erupted and covered half the Northern Hemisphere in ash. I was staying at The Chateau Marmont, one of my favourite hotels, and pretty much had the best week of my life. Everything was paid for by I’m working in Egypt at the dream scenario. They couldn’t the airline and I ended up getting

the moment, filming a really do anything until I’d arrived, a new show after I bumped into a series that will take me which meant lounging around UK TV commissioner who was also CAIRO 31.2357° E 31.2357° 30.0444° N N 30.0444° around the world during at the production company’s stuck. Talk about prospering during the next three months. It’s expense, enjoying themselves while a crisis. particularly welcome as it allows me pretending to be concerned for their Now that I think about it, what I to escape the English winter – one missing programme partner. actually should have done this week that actually caused me to miss my I know all this to be true because was just film my family ‘surviving’ flight there in the first place. I’ve been on the other side of it. Ten without the internet, mobile I shouldn’t haven’t been too years ago, while making another phones or electricity for 24 hours. surprised, I suppose. In the lead up travel series, I flew to Miami where You would have thought that the to the big freeze, my home in the I was supposed to be joined by my apocalypse had arrived – although Cotswolds had lost all electricity we did eventually have a lovely – meaning no phone or internet time playing cards, having snowball access with which to try and sort fights, even talking… almost like a the problem out. The only thing I normal family. could do was hike up the large hill I suppose what I’m saying is, if behind my house where I could just For more you’re delayed for some reason – and humour from about raise one bar at the summit. Dom Joly, check out this can certainly be the season for it I’m filming the series with a Trigger Happy TV, – embrace the fact and seize the day. person who did manage to catch showing in Comedy And if you can get somebody else to CAIRO TV on ice. the Cairo flight. For them it was pay for it, even better.

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K FIGHT CITY FEATURES FIGHT CITY • LIFE ON MARS • STALKING MOZART

VEGAS AND THE FIGHT GAME

Why Las Vegas, Nevada is the undisputed boxing champion of the world Turn over for round one

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OS83.P42-49_LasVegas.indd 41 12/20/17 6:58 PM FIGHT CITY Las Vegas might well be known as the home of world boxing, but how did it pinch the crown from New York, and does it now face a scrap of its own to hang on to the big-money title?

WORDS:Chris Young

OS83.P42-49_LasVegas.indd 42 12/20/17 6:58 PM UNSCRUPULOUS BOXING PROMOTER

BRASH VISIONARY NIGHTCLUB IMPRESARIO CASINO OWNER

CONTROVERSIAL WEST COAST RAPPER

MATT DAMON

OS83.P42-49_LasVegas.indd 43 12/20/17 6:58 PM On the tennis court of the Caesars Palace hotel and casino, George Foreman is going through his paces, determined to revive a boxing career 36.1699° N 36.1699° LAS VEGAS 115.1398° W 115.1398° still recovering from its first hiccup. It’s January 1976, and 15 months since Foreman’s undefeated record was floored in the eighth round of his legendary Rumble in the Jungle encounter with Muhammad Ali. After a lengthy spell licking his wounds, the former world champion has chosen inauspicious surroundings to make his comeback. You won’t see any rackets, nets or markings on this tennis court, though. Caesars Palace owner and visionary Cliff Perlman has invested US$1 million to construct a makeshift arena here, in a bid to attract fresh customers during the January slow season. It’s a genuine attempt to shift the centre of boxing to the Vegas Strip. Fast forward 41 years and the fruits of that pivotal 1976 encounter were seen in lucrative fashion, as Floyd Mayweather Jr. and Conor McGregor fought in the biggest grossing boxing match of all time – less than a mile along from where Foreman and Ron Lyle locked horns on that fateful day. There’s nothing makeshift about Vegas’ boxing scene anymore. On both sporting and business levels, boxing has become inherently entwined with the desert city’s fabric. But this wasn’t always the case. “New York was traditionally boxing’s home because of the concentration of radio and TV broadcasting stations and hubs in the city,” explains author and boxing historian Patrick Connor. “The Gillette Cavalcade of Sports was an NBC programme broadcast out of Madison Square Garden almost every single Friday, starting in the 1940s. By the early 1950s, three major networks had regular boxing programming. However, it was a deal that quickly turned sour, and by the ’60s, NBC had taken it off of their line-up and the sport’s reputation had taken a hit due to high-profile court cases, and alleged widespread corruption.” The corruption, in particular, was a stink that would just not go away when it came to big-time boxing. “Mafia involvement in the sport wasn’t just talk, but well- documented fact,” explains Connor. “From lower level street toughs to more well-known characters like Frankie Carbo and Blinky Palermo, the mob became very involved in boxing once it realised there was money to be made. Much of the involvement was paying off writers to say complimentary things about fighters they controlled, but While this wasn’t the first time a promoter used that lofty sometimes it was paying judges, officials, or even strong- billing, it was the pinnacle of all that had come before it. arming and intimidation.” “Frazier vs. Ali definitely wasn’t the first Fight of the Not that this stopped some major bouts still taking Century, nor the first fight celebrities attended and wanted place in the city, of course. Even by 1971, the Garden was to be seen attending,” continues Connor. “But it definitely the only place that could have hosted Muhammad Ali and upped the ante in terms of the viewership and the kind of Joe Frazier’s first bout – the legendary Fight of the Century. people there. This is fight promoting, so much of it is pure

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BATTLE- READY The ring being constructed at Caesars Palace ahead of the Marvin Hagler-Thomas Hearns fight

hyperbole, but certain things about Frazier vs. Ali made it unique. Two unbeaten men, each catering to a particular side of politics or social perspective – whether they wanted to or not – aided by broadcasting technology that made it possible for almost 10 per cent of the world’s population to tune in live. In terms of the near panic to acquire tickets, it goes well beyond that. Certainly the celebrities in attendance offer some great stories, from Burt Lancaster as guest co-commentator to Frank Sinatra squeezing in on a ticket to shoot pictures for Life magazine.” But the odd high-profile bout aside, NYC was losing its grip on the game. At the same time, one man was emerging in the sport that would, for good and ill, alter its very complexion beyond all recognition. A 43-year-old promoter named Don King from Cleveland, Ohio, saw the value in taking big fights out of the US entirely. “This was basically all about site fees and sponsorship,” explains Connor. “Don King wanted to guarantee fighters certain purses, but he didn’t have that money himself. So for the Rumble in the Jungle, for instance, he sought out foreign locations that wanted the publicity that a fight of that magnitude would bring. They would essentially sponsor the fight and pay the fighters. In the case of George Foreman vs. Joe Frazier in 1972 – known as the Sunshine

THE DETAILS LOCATION: LAS VEGAS CURRENT TEMP: LOW 39°F/HIGH 59°F VISIT: MARCH-MAY/SEPTEMBER -NOVEMBER SEE: BOXING HALL OF FAME, RAINBOW BLVD.

Discover Las Vegas and over 70 other destinations in the US, Caribbean and Latin America with Emirates and Jet Blue. Members of Emirates Skywards earn Miles on JetBlue flights. Members of JetBlue’s TrueBlue loyalty programme can also earn points for Emirates-operated flights. LAS VEGAS

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“ON BOTH SPORTING AND BUSINESS LEVELS, BOXING HAS BECOME INHERENTLY ENTWINED WITH THE DESERT CITY’S VERY FABRIC ”

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OS83.P42-49_LasVegas.indd 47 12/20/17 6:54 PM FIGHT CITY

BIG MONEY Showdown – Frazier allowed a man who promoted a angle possible to guarantee bigger cash purses to the BOUT Mayweather Jr. European music tour of his to negotiate for him. This fighters, Vegas was gaining traction back in the US. vs McGregor promoter and his friend then convinced the government of “It was becoming a popular destination for celebrities was the pinnacle Jamaica to outbid Madison Square Garden for the fight. and musical acts,” says Connor. “A few fight promoters of boxing’s “George Foreman vs. Ken Norton in 1974 (the Caracas had dipped their toes into the water there. Jack “Doc” relationship with Vegas Caper) had to do with money as well, as Don King alleged Kearns, former manager to Jack Dempsey, took Archie that the Venezuelan government had told him they would Moore there to fight Niño Valdés in 1955 and by the early allow him to put on the fight tax-free. That wound up not 1960s the Las Vegas Convention Center had become being the case and Foreman almost got thrown in jail over boxing’s home in Nevada.” it, eventually having to pay a tonne in taxes – which is why But it was George Foreman on that tennis court that it became known as a caper. really brought life to the desert. “Just after the foreign “Ultimately, the trend wound up being short-lived craze got started, Caesars Palace in Las Vegas began because operating like this was more trouble than it hosting semi-regular fights, starting with an insane brawl was worth. Much of it hinged on the celebrity and clout in George Foreman vs. Ron Lyle that would eventually be of Muhammad Ali, and after Trevor Berbick defeated named The Ring magazine Fight of the Year,” explains him in Nassau (Drama in the Bahamas – Ali’s final bout, Connor. “By the time we got to the 1980s, it was clear in 1981), it was difficult to get foreign governments that big fights could draw crowds to Vegas, and crowds interested in the fights.” generally meant casinos picked up more gamblers.” But while Don King Productions was busy chasing every The Foreman vs. Lyle fight was the catalyst for the big

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OS83.P42-49_LasVegas.indd 48 12/20/17 5:42 PM FIGHT CITY

title fights to be held in Vegas and it began an incredibly It’s just as special for the boxers as it is for the fans. fruitful relationship between the city and sport. Nothing compared to Caesars,” said Sugar Ray Leonard By the 1990s, the fights were moving from makeshift in one post-retirement interview. “The smell of the facilities on the tennis courts and car parks of Caesars cigars, the beautiful women sitting ringside right next to into made-to-measure arenas inside the MGM Grand and celebrities and criminals. It was exciting. Once I fought Mandalay Bay. Fight City had well and truly relocated from there, I never wanted to go anywhere else.” New York to Nevada. For those fighters who are yet to compete in Sin City, Dennis McBride, director of the Nevada State Museum, boxing in the desert remains a major target on the bucket list. explains, “When they saw the amount of money that these “All the great fights happen in Vegas,” says former WBA fight aficionados brought into town – they stayed at the super-bantamweight champion Scott Quigg, who has just hotels, ate at the restaurants and gambled in the casinos – moved to Los Angeles from his Greater Manchester home. that’s when it really clicked.” “As a kid, you would tune in and watch the fight in the early Last year’s Mayweather Jr. vs. McGregor bout was the hours of the morning. You’d see the celebrities ringside... pinnacle of that relationship. Setting aside the US$480 it’s always something I’ve wanted to tick off my list.” million recouped in pay-per-view buys in the US alone, the However, Quigg – who fought on the undercard of ‘Money Fight’ was huge for the Vegas economy itself. Anthony Joshua’s April world heavyweight title win over The Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority Wladimir Klitschko in front of 80,000 fans at Wembley estimates that the clash brought – wonders whether there will in US$56 million of revenue to the “BY THE ’90s, THE FIGHTS come a time when these big fights city’s hotels, restaurants and shops. are, once again, shared around Another US$65 million was bet on WERE MOVING FROM the globe. Particularly with the the bout in Vegas alone, according MAKESHIFT FACILITIES ON emergence of high-profile rivals to to the Nevada Gaming Commission. THE TENNIS COURTS AND Vegas such as Dubai and Macau After Mayweather Jr. brought – the former recently showing the curtain down on his career CAR PARKS OF CAESARS interest in staging a Manny with victory over McGregor, it’s AND INTO MADE-TO- Pacquiao fight while the latter has clear why the man known as MEASURE ARENAS INSIDE already hosted a number smaller Money has become something of boxing events. a favourite son in Nevada. “It’s all THE MGM GRAND AND Patrick Connor can’t really see about giving back; and I’m giving MANDALAY BAY” another city stealing Vegas’ crown back to my home of Las Vegas. any time soon. “The demand in the This city has welcomed me with open arms from day US for a truly big fight would probably take priority over one,” said Mayweather Jr. , who would win the final 15 a huge site fee in a case like that,” he explains. “Pacquiao bouts of his career in Vegas. fought in Macau twice, but neither fight was considered From a numbers point of view, the population of Vegas particularly interesting or competitive going in, and it was doesn’t change dramatically during a big fight weekend. ostensibly done for tax purposes. Unless there was a clear There were around 100,000 fewer tourists in the city during financial incentive or a potential venue deal already in place, August 2016 than when the McGregor vs. Mayweather it’s unlikely we’ll see big fights heading overseas very often.” Jr. fight took place in 2017. Yet the major differences are It’s certainly unlikely that The Nevada State Athletic revenue, spectacle and atmosphere. Commission would go quietly into the night on this Celebrities such as Bruce Willis, Jennifer Lopez, one, and it prides itself on beating off competition from Leonardo DiCaprio and Chris Hemsworth all navigated other destinations for world title clashes. Meanwhile, the the red carpeted route to the floor of the T-Mobile Arena powerful American pay-per-view broadcaster Showtime to watch the action after their private jets had hit the has a long-standing relationship with both Vegas and tarmac at McCarran Airport just a few hours earlier. leading boxing promoters. No less noteworthy were the thousands of green-clad After watching the rise of the city’s boxing scene, Dennis hordes from Ireland who travelled to Vegas to cheer on McBride certainly doesn’t see any real threat to its title. “Las McGregor, even if they watched the fight on one of the Vegas is an entirely artificial construct. We have no industry, closed circuit TV productions in the nearby casinos, no ocean ports, no rivers to give the city any reason to be rather than payiong for the high-priced seats on the here. So a manufactured city has to have manufactured arena floor. industry: marriage, dining, entertainment and fighting.”

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LIFE ON

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OS83.P50-57_LifeOnMars.indd 50 12/20/17 6:34 PM HAWAII

MARS

As the new space race gathers pace, the question of finance now faces serious competition from that of whether our species can handle the environment in the first place. Could Hawaii be the answer?

WORDS: Gary Evans

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Companies, not countries, rounds of interviews and “lots bulge. Your face goes puffy and

compete in what’s been of psychological assessments” you constantly feel like you have a called the new space before he earned a place on the cold. Eyeballs flatten, vision blurs.

HAWAII race; and the founders mission. He flew to Hawaii, where Your immune system, muscles, 19.8968° N, N, 19.8968° 155.5828° W 155.5828° of them believe they he met his crewmates for the first and bones become weaker. You will have all the technology time at a week-long briefing, then very probably suffer from excessive needed to land humans on Mars entered The Habitat. Once the flatulence. But predicting what’ll – perhaps as soon as 2022. door closed behind him, he knew happen in your mind is even trickier, While space scientists tinker he wouldn’t feel the sun on his which is where HI-SEAS comes in. with familiar problems – rockets face or breathe an ounce of fresh But we’re getting ahead of and rocket power, water, food, air for the next eight months. ourselves. Firstly, how will we air, the takeoff and landing “It’s just lava flows,” explains get there? “Sending humans to of it all – they also carry out Payler of the landscape. “There’s Mars will require a global effort tests in far more unfamiliar no vegetation. There’s not been with international cooperation territory: Human behaviour. enough time since the volcano and contributions from “I can’t tell you too much about last erupted for vegetation to take industry,” says Schierholz. what happens in the selection hold. We couldn’t see civilisation process,” says astrobiologist at all from we where. We were Sam Payler. “We just know that really on our own up there.” our personalities are in some The Habitat is a white vinyl dome TWENTY YEARS AGO, NASA’s way compatible.” Payler has just that looks like a massive golf ball. It Pathfinder set down on the surface spent most of the year living with sits 8,200 feet above sea level on the of Mars. A little robotic vehicle left five strangers on “Mars” – or side of Mauna Loa, the largest active the lander and explored an ancient Hawaii, as it’s currently known. volcano in the world. The team at flood plain in the planet’s northern Having applied for the fifth in HI-SEAS (Hawaii Space Exploration hemisphere. Photos showed a a series of experiments funded Analog and Simulation) selected red desertscape, dune seas, deep by NASA, Payler passed multiple this site partly because it looks so canyons, giant rock gardens, a similar to the surface of Mars. bleak and barren alien world, but “Nobody here sees this as a one that was majestic too. race,” says NASA press secretary, For the first time, NASA used Stephanie Schierholz, while the web as the main way to share explaining their plans. They’re busy photos with the public. The pictures working out how to get astronauts proved so popular they nearly broke to Mars in the first place (expected the internet. Bas Lansdorp was 20 around the 2030s mark), how to at the time, and watched the landing put them to work once they’re on his desktop computer in Holland. up there, and how to keep them He decided he wanted to go to Mars. fit and well while they do it. “All technology required to That last bit is tricky. Microgravity send humans to Mars exists,” and weightlessness can affect you says Lansdorp. “A lot of applied in lots of ways. Fluid rushes to the engineering is required, but no upper part of your body. Neck veins new inventions are needed to send humans to Mars. What’s missing is the return mission capability. The return mission is part of NASA’s plan, but not of ours.” It could be said that the HI-SEAS test The entrepreneur cofounded Mars was a little like a reality TV show in its One in 2011. His company aims to establish the first permanent own right. ‘Six people, eight months, human settlement on Mars. complete isolation… you decide’ Coming back, he says, is far more

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OS83.P50-57_LifeOnMars.indd 52 12/20/17 6:34 PM team players who would be able to deal with the group isolation.” Lansdorp will probably buy his rockets from Elon Musk. He’s a man with serious history in the propulsion game. Dubai to Bangkok in 27 minutes? Los Angeles to Shanghai? Just 36 minutes. Sydney to London? The usual flight time is 20 hours. Musk’s ‘BFR’ would do it in under an hour. dangerous and expensive than travel with reality TV. Think of it: THE HABITAT Musk started PayPal and runs This white vinyl getting there. The distance between The Real Housewives of Mars, dome 8,200 Tesla – the car manufacturer, Earth and Mars can be as short Keeping Up with the Martians … feet above energy storage company and sea level was as 55 million kilometres and as In 2013, Lansdorp called for ‘Mars’ for eight solar panel manufacturer. He’s long as 322 million, depending on volunteers to travel to Mars. More months worth about US$20 billion. When the phase of each planets’ orbit than 200,000 people applied. the South African wanted to of the sun. This shortest distance They’re currently being tested move into the space business, he happens once every two years. So and interviewed and whittled tried to buy rockets from NASA you either have to take the long down to 24. “Psychology is and then from Russia, but had way home or sit around on Mars a lot harder, especially in our no luck. So he decided to build waiting for the planets to align. permanent settlement mission… his own. He founded SpaceX in And that’s presuming your rocket we’re mostly looking for the best 2002. Musk wants to make space is capable of the return flight. travel cheaper and eventually Mars One plans to send several create a colony on Mars. Hawaii (aka Mars) unmanned missions to establish SpaceX now employes over 6,000 a “habitable settlement” before people. The company designs, the first astronauts arrive. But builds, and launches rockets. going to Mars one-way would still Musk partly funds his operations be pretty pricy – it’d cost trillions, with public contracts (like space according to some estimates. station cargo-supply missions for Lansdorp, who watched the Mars NASA) and commercial contracts landing online all those years ago, (like launching satellites for Fly to Hawaii with Emirates and Alaska Airlines. Through the created a funding model based on codeshare agreement with Alaska Airlines, passengers travelling communications companies). advertising and broadcast rights. with Emirates to Seattle can connect to Honolulu, as well as more than In September, at the annual 40 additional destinations across the United States and Canada. Critics said he plans to fund space meeting of the International

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OS83.P50-57_LifeOnMars.indd 53 12/20/17 6:34 PM kitchen and dining room, room for experiments and storage, all open plan – with a mezzanine upstairs, where thin plywood walls separated six small bedrooms and one bathroom (with a composting toilet). Payler and the crew contacted mission control by email, but with a 20-minute delay both ways, because that’s what it’d be like on Mars. If they left the dome, Astronautical Congress, Musk “Microgravity and weightlessness can they had to wear spacesuits. These presented an update on SpaceX’s were hot. On a previous mission, BFR – the Big F****** Rocket. This affect you in lots of ways. Fluid rushes the first time one participant put is the thing that will get you from to the upper part of your body. Neck the suit on she had a panic attack. Dubai to Bangkok before the drinks veins bulge. Your face goes puffy and Some of these things haven’t trolley’s been around. It’ll leave the gone well in the past either. During Earth’s atmosphere, so there’s less you’ll feel like you have a cold” a similar study in Moscow in 1999 friction and no turbulence, and has – set up by the ominously named a top speed of 27,000kmh. Musk Institute of Biomedical Problems says tickets will cost about the same – two Russian participants got as an economy flight for the same into must-watch TV, it could be into a fistfight, left blood on the distance. He aims to send humans said that the HI-SEAS test was walls. And things got worse from to Mars in 2024 and super-fast a little like a reality TV show in there. One participant quit in flight is another way of paying for it. its own right – ‘Six people, eight protest and another got head lice. But, crucially, he’s yet to present his months, complete isolation… Social scientists talk about plans for keeping Mars passengers you decide.’ But according to ‘extreme environments’. If it’s healthy in body and mind. Payler, a doctoral candidate extreme, an environment restricts at the University of Edinburgh, privacy, confines, isolates, crowds, this was no Big Brother. and it doesn’t let you leave when WHILE LANSDORP AIMS to turn The dome was 1,200 square you want to leave. It could be a the colonisation of the red planet feet downstairs – workspace, submarine in the ocean or it could

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O M A N Mission to Oman In 2018, a crew from the Austrian Space Forum will turn Oman into the red planet While the UAE Space Agency is aiming to send its Hope spacecraft on an unmanned mission to Mars in July 2020, neighbouring Oman is working, much like Hi-SEAS in Hawaii, from the ground up. Having just signed a memorandum of understanding with the Austrian Space Forum, Oman will play the red planet in a Mars analog mission next month, with a team of 15 from Austria heading to the desert. During the mission, the team will carry out a series of experiments, from growing greens without soil in an infl atable hydroponic greenhouse to testing an autonomous “tumbleweed” rover, which maps out terrain while THE TESTS propelled by wind. For NASA, it’s While the tests how to get should provide astronauts valuable data on to Mars and whether life on then keep them alive up Mars could one day there. That last be possible, for the part is tricky Omani Astronomical Society, that invited the Austrian Space Forum, the mission is a way to inspire the country’s youth.

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LAURA LARK IT specialist from “Mars”

What was the project’s biggest achievement? At the beginning, the crew wrote a mission statement that aimed to maintain our cohesiveness, to ensure high-quality outreach, and to provide good data for the various research studies being conducted. I’m proud of our accomplishments on each of those fronts.

What did you fi nd toughest? For me, it was participating in the fi rst place. To join the crew, I had to quit my job and leave my new husband for eight months. That last phone call was pretty tough.

How about enjoyable moments? It was all about the people. I really enjoyed many of the projects and adventures that I got to have with my crew. For example, on one occasion we went on a long EVA (Extravehicular Activity) to explore some skylights that we had wanted to check out for months. On the way, we discovered several interesting geological features. The skylights themselves were pretty interesting as well. It’s that constant exploration and creativity with my crewmates that I’ll remember most fondly.

What advice would you give an astronaut going to Mars? Stay focused on your crew. It’s easy THE MISSION The crew had to concentrate on the work and research to let the team take care of itself, but conduct, but like anything else, a strong team the biggest test was living takes persistent and intentional together effort to build and maintain – especially during a long mission.

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Payler used virtual reality to help keep the crew happy. As science officer, Payler hooked the team up to Oculus Rift headsets so they could wander in a forest or through city streets. He is unsure whether this would make Mars astronauts more or less homesick. “Seeing lots of people around you, hearing their voices, it was quite a strange experience.”

SCIENTISTS AND BUSINESSMEN are getting close to figuring out the remaining technical and financial problems that On January 18, he prevent us from flying to Mars. entered The Habitat, So around the world, space organisations are planning more and once the door projects like HI-SEAS. Instead closed behind him, he of just looking outwards, to knew he wouldn’t feel deep space, they’re also looking inwards, at headspace. the sun on his face for HI-SEAS starts a new eight- the next eight months month mission later this month. Some experts have gone as far as suggesting real astronauts head up Mauna Loa before being be a research station up on top of allowed to fly to Mars. Payler a mountain. Mars would certainly agrees. “We started off as strangers be an extreme environment. and I think by the end everyone “A trip to Mars,” one NASA in the crew was very confidant researcher suggested, “would be that we were going to be friends like a great sea voyage on an old for a very long time afterwards. ship.” And when the pioneering It was a little bit tough at times, American explorer Richard but we made it very easy for each Byrd travelled by ship on his other. Deep space exploration is first expedition to the Antarctic expensive and it’s so important it in 1928, he took with him 12 works – crew selection was vital. straitjackets and two coffins. We were set up for success.” Payler believes that the In the end, whether a mission toughest thing wasn’t the isolation, to Mars fails or succeeds could the sensory depravation, or come down to more than technical the freeze-dried, shelf-stable data; and it’s quite fitting. If a move food: it was no internet. Simple to the red planet could eventually problems took hours, not prove the future of the human minutes to solve. “When it’s race, its own compatibility will gone, it’s much more debilitating prove vital. The answers to this than I thought it would be.” might just be found in Hawaii.

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STALKING MOZART Walking in the footsteps of Austria’s most influential composer takes time, dedication and a strong aversion to tourist-a-rama

WORDS: Lisa Schwarzbaum

Leopold Mozart would marzipan Mozartkugeln sold around Mahler, Arnold Schoenberg, Hugo

have admired the town. After all, a bite-size portion Wolf and a passel of Strausses, marketing skills of of Eine Kleine Nachtmusik is better among them Johann senior and VIENNA 16.3738° E 16.3738° 48.2082° N, N, 48.2082° the persistent young than no Little Night Music at all. But junior, and the unrelated Richard. men in ratty wigs and on a November visit to Vienna, I The little pension in which I set fraying red waistcoats who prowl waved off all enterprising impostors, up Mozart-stalking headquarters Stephansplatz, Vienna’s central with their handbills and hustles. was on an unprepossessing side square. Just as the elder Mozart I am a lapsed violist and a serious street equidistant from the Vienna aggressively promoted the talents practising Mozartian. I may no State Opera and the Stadtpark. In of his son Wolfgang Amadeus, longer have the chops to play in one direction stood the imposing these costumed hawkers are on a string quartet, but I retain my opera house (rebuilt and restored a similar promotional mission: love of the man’s celestial music. after wartime destruction in Their assignment is to drum It is because of him that I was in 1945), where Mahler conducted up customers for the steady Stephansplatz in the first place on at the turn of the century and output of ingratiatingly light, a chilly pre-winter’s day, looking introduced the radical notion of short-attention-span classical for remnants of the real man. dimming the theatre lights during performances programmed Inevitably, while I was at it, I performances. (A quick detour on around town especially for tourists walked in the footsteps of plenty a street behind the building leads drawn to one of the most famous of other giants of the classical to a plaque noting where Vivaldi cities in western music history. repertory who made Vienna once lived.) In the other direction A visitor can’t go terribly wrong their home over the last three lay the stately municipal park, following the touts of these centuries. Celebrated resident with its sculpted monuments to barkers in their cartoon costumes musicians have included Ludwig Bruckner, Schubert, Franz Lehar mimicking the great composer, van Beethoven, Johannes Brahms, and Johann Strauss Jr. That last, whose image graces the boxes Anton Bruckner, Franz Schubert, an ornate masterwork of selfie bait of foil-wrapped, chocolate-and- Antonio Vivaldi, Franz Liszt, Gustav called the Johann Strauss Golden

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Peter’s Church. There is no plaque WITHOUT MARKING, at all at Graben 17. And to find any commemorative notification MOZART’S RESTING PLACE of Mozart’s last address, on Rauhensteingasse 8, a pilgrim must head to the rear of the COULD NOT BE FOUND BY Steffl department store, which occupies the footprint of an THE TIME HIS WIDOW WENT apartment building, demolished in 1847, in which Mozart and his family were living when he died. LOOKING FOR IT YEARS On the other hand, one very solid edifice where the great man once walked continues to do AFTER HIS DEATH big business. After two years as husband and wife, Wolfgang and Constanze moved in 1784 to fine digs at Domgasse 5, and they lived Statue, features the waltz king there for three years. (That was a poised with fiddle and bow as if to record of stability for the couple; strike up the Blue Danube Waltz. pity the missus, forever packing the But with limited time available family knickknacks and supervising for exploration, I focused on one 18th-century moving vans.) man – not least because Mozart Music poured out of the set some kind of record for artist in that happy, prosperous changes of Viennese address. Born time – concertos, chamber in Salzburg, Austria, in 1756, he works, The Marriage of Figaro. moved to Vienna in 1781, when he And drink flowed, too, for guests was 25. And in the next 10 years, including Joseph Haydn. Johann until his death in 1791, Wolfgang Nepomuk Hummel moved in for (along with his wife, Constanze, a time as Mozart’s student. and the two of his six children Today the building is renamed who lived past infancy) occupied Mozarthaus Vienna. Managed by some dozen apartments during the city’s Wien Museum, it was his 35 short years on earth, all substantially renovated and spiffed within the city’s inner District 1. up in 2006 (timed to the 250th Sometimes the tenancy lasted anniversary of Mozart’s birth) a matter of weeks or months. to emulate a model of modern There are plaques, but no extant exhibition showmanship: A relatively homes, to show for Mozart’s first small nub of historical authenticity two addresses, at Singerstrasse is padded out with slick, somewhat 7 and Milchgasse 1 beside St Disneyfied interpretive displays and audiovisual installations. Above all, the gift shop looms large, hawking Mozart pencils, key VIENNA Emirates chains, perfumes, playing cards, flies twice daily to Vienna. paper napkins, thimbles, miniature Choose from a busts, chocolates, golf balls and daily A380 service and a second flight snap-on cases for cellphones. operated by the Leopold Mozart would have been Boeing 777-300ER. so impressed. But all those gaudy

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golf balls left me feeling vaguely EAT LIKE bested by souvenirs. So much so that I walked back to Stephansplatz MOZART and into St Stephen’s Cathedral itself For three squares in the – called Stephansdom – to soothe style of the master, try these my consternation and, indeed, to restaurants in Vienna contemplate life and death. After all, it was here that Wolfgang Amadeus and Constanze were married in the cathedral, a magnificent symbol of all Vienna, in 1782. Two of their children were christened there. And an unspectacular requiem Mass (with none of Mozart’s music) was celebrated there after Mozart’s death; a plaque commemorates the event. 1 Haydn, once a Stephansdom Breakfast at Café Mozart choirboy, was married in the Mozart didn’t set foot here – the place opened in 1794, three years after his death – but church in 1760, as was Johann Graham Greene wrote The Third Man here. Strauss Jr. At the other end of life’s CAFE-MOZART.AT procession, the names of Vivaldi, Antonio Salieri and Schubert appear in the cathedral’s death register. Clearly, it was time for me to visit the final resting place of the man whose music Albert Einstein described as “so pure that it seemed to have been ever-present in , waiting to be discovered by the master”. But where exactly was he resting? I took a tram ride 2 away from the city bustle to the Lunch at Café Frauenhuber divinely quiet St Marx Cemetery on Mozart loved the place, and reportedly made his last public performance here at what is Leberstrasse 6-8 in District 3, where said to be Vienna’s oldest coffee house. Mozart’s coffin was transported CAFEFRAUENHUBER.AT by coach. In contrast to legend and the Oscar-winning 1984 movie Amadeus, the body was interred not as that of a nameless pauper. Rather, adhering to a decree by the efficiency- and sanitation- minded Emperor Joseph II, his burial, like all others, took place in a communal, unmarked grave. Unfortunately, without marking, Mozart’s resting place could not be 3 found by the time his widow went Dinner at Griechenbeisl looking for it years after his death Serving notable carnivores since 1447, including Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert, (ill from grief, she hadn’t attended and even Mark Twain, too. his funeral). In the intervening years, GRIECHENBEISL.AT

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OS83.P58-63_Mozart.indd 62 12/20/17 5:46 PM STALKING MOZART MUSIC POURED OUT OF MOZART IN THAT HAPPY, PROSPEROUS TIME – CONCERTOS, CHAMBER WORKS, THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO

the bones in his contingent of dead souls had probably been dug up and reinterred to make room for the more recently deceased. Not until 1855 was an approximation of the gravesite selected in a grassy stretch of those communal graves, and a memorial built. The cemetery stayed open for new business only another 19 years, closing in 1874. No wonder it is such a satisfyingly moody, atmospherically dishevelled sanctuary, thick with vegetation and mournful with pockets of disrepair. Lilacs bloom there in springtime, but late November was a nicely raw time to walk among the Biedermeier-period headstones. And it was easy to find the romantically lachrymose memorial so often photographed today; just enter the main gate and follow the signs to Mozartgrab, where a grieving angel rests a right elbow, heavy with sorrow, on the base of an artfully broken marble column, and flowers are enhanced by offerings from reverent visitors. Then again, this particular statuary has been around only since 1950, while the stone artwork installed in 1855 was moved to one last, and lasting, Viennese And chief among the honoured Far from the concert carnies of site of Mozartean contemplation. are the city’s musical greats, which Stephansplatz and the kitschy And so off I went by tram again, is why the graves of Brahms and key chains of Mozarthaus Vienna, to the city’s central cemetery, the Schoenberg receive such regular I was refreshed, sated. As I took Zentralfriedhof. It is central, that is, foot traffic. And why the remains the No 71 tram back towards to the history of the city: One of the of Beethoven and Schubert were my pension, I experienced the largest burial sites in the world, it moved there in 1888, now flanking fervour Schubert must have felt is, in fact, on the outskirts of town. Mozart in a place of honour. when he wrote in his 1816 diary, Yet the founders were canny. A stiff wind picked up as I “O Mozart, immortal Mozart, how To draw visitors, Zentralfriedhof stood in front of the three. Bits many, how infinitely many inspiring plans always included a selection of Mozart’s own transcendent suggestions of a finer, better life of honorary graves, or ehrengraber. Requiem played in my head. you have left in our souls!”

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K NEWS • INSIDEBRIEFING EMIRATES • DESTINATION • VISA • UAE SMART GATE • ROUTE MAP • FLEET

FLYING INTO THE FUTURE How Emirates uses cutting- edge 3D printing technology in its aircraft cabins.

Turn over for more

news from Emirates

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Emirates and the future of aircraft cabins

EMIRATES HAS USED 3D printing the Fusion Deposition Modelling 3D printed video monitor shrouds using technology to manufacture technique normally used for 3D Systems’ SLS technology platform. components for its aircraft cabins. printing aircraft 3D parts. One of the major advantages The airline utilised Selective In reaching this significant milestone, of using the SLS technique is the Laser Sintering (SLS), a new and Emirates worked with 3D Systems, a reduced weight of printed components innovative 3D printing technique, to US-based 3D printing equipment and combined with optimisation of the produce video monitor shrouds. material manufacturer and services strength of the parts produced. This This technique uses lasers to provider, and UUDS, a European viation has the potential to lead to significant bind together powdered plastic Engineering and Certification Office reductions in fuel emissions and into the required shape defined by and Services Provider based in France, costs when consolidated over the a 3D model, and is different from to successfully print the first batch of entire fleet of Emirates aircraft.

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Dreamliner deal signed at Dubai Airshow

EMIRATES HAS PLACED a US$15.1 billion order for 40 Boeing 787-10 Dreamliners. The agreement, signed at the 2017 Dubai Airshow in the presence of HH Emirates flies the flag for the Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime United Arab Emirates Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, will see the aircraft delivered in phases EMIRATES HAS COLLABORATED professional Indian cricket player from 2022 onwards. with ESPN to produce a four- representing the UAE cricket team; “Some of these will be replacements part documentary mini-series and Shadia Bseiso, the first Arab so that we maintain a young and called Flying the Flag. female wrestler from the Middle East efficient fleet, and others will power The series, which follows four to sign a contract with the WWE. our future network growth,” said HH athletes in the UAE as they prepare to “As an ardent supporter of sports Sheikh Ahmed Bin Saeed Al Maktoum, compete on the world stage, is running around the world, Emirates knows Chairman and Chief Executive, in the UAE on Emirates’ and ESPN’s how determined and relentlessly Emirates Airline and Group, who signed digital and social media channels. hard these athletes work and we the agreement with Boeing Commercial Flying the Flag focuses on athletes were inspired to share their stories,” Airplanes President and CEO Kevin in four different sports: Zahra Lari, a said Sheikh Majid Al Mualla, McAllister. UAE national figure skater vying to Divisional Senior Vice President “We see the 787 as a great become the first Emirati athlete to Commercial Operations Centre for complement to our 777 and A380 fleet, compete in the Winter Olympic Games; Emirates. “This series will show providing us with more flexibility to Mohammed Al Balooshi, UAE national the commitment and heart they serve a range of destinations as we Motocross champion; Chirag Suri, a gave to achieve their dreams.” develop our global route network.”

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This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme INSIDE EMIRATES

The eco-friendly fleet From a water-saving aircraft drywash technique, to a modern fleet and products made from recycled plastic, Emirates ensures an environmentally-friendly attitude in the air

A GREENER TOMORROW EMIRATES AIRLINE FOUNDATION DESERT CONSERVATION Emirates established its A Greener Launched in February 2003 under the The Emirates Group funds the operations Tomorrow initiative as a way of giving patronage of His Highness Sheikh Ahmed of the 225 square kilometre Dubai Desert back, with funds generated from Bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Conservation Reserve, an inland desert recycling contributing to support not- Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, the habitat that has been protected by for-profit environmental or conservation Emirates Airline Foundation is a non-profit government mandate since 2003. The reserve organisations. In its 2016 campaign, charity that provides humanitarian and is home to a number of important species, Emirates selected three not-for-profit philanthropic aid and services for children including Arabian oryx, houbara bustard and groups working in wildlife protection and in need. The foundation, which focuses on pharaoh eagle-owl. In partnership with the environmental conservation in Africa: health, food, education and housing, is made Goumbook Give-a-Ghaf programme, hundreds the Southern African Wildlife College up of volunteer employees and friends of the of indigenous ghaf trees have been planted Trust, the Southern African Foundation Emirates Group, and is funded by generous in the reserve in support of their initiative to for the Conservation of Coastal Birds, donations of money and Skywards Miles protect one of the most valuable symbols of and African Parks. from passengers and staff. the living desert.

UNITED FOR WILDLIFE Emirates is determined to raise awareness about the threat the illegal wildlife trade poses to the survival of some of the planet’s most endangered and iconic animals. One of the unique ways in which it has done this is to emblazon a number of its iconic A380 aircraft with special livery in support of United for Wildlife – an alliance between seven of the world’s most influential conservation organisations and The Royal Foundation of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince Harry.

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THE WATER-FREE WASH A YOUNG AND MODERN FLEET SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS For World Environment Day, Emirates A key part of the Emirates’ environmental With more than 100 million meals served showcased an environmentally friendly strategy is operating an eco-efficient annually across our network of over aircraft cleaning technique that has enabled fleet, and during 2017 it retired the last 150 destinations, Emirates puts great the airline to save millions of litres of remaining Airbus A340s and A330s. It now emphasis on simple, healthy dishes that water every year. Crucially, this waterless only operates a passenger fleet of Airbus use fresh and sustainable ingredients, wash technique ensures that the aircraft A380s and Boeing 777s, and together with which means working with the best and remains clean for longer, thereby reducing its Boeing 777 freighters, the average fleet most environmentally conscious suppliers the number of times it has to be washed age stands at 5.3 years – well below the around the world. This includes Castello down to approximately three per year. It has industry average. A modern wide body Monte Vibiano Vecchio Cantina, the first, also been able to reduce the aircraft’s fuel fleet also delivers lower engine and noise and currently only, carbon-neutral vineyard consumption thanks to there being less emissions, and offers customers a higher and olive oil producer in the world; and accumulation of dirt. level of comfort. Dilmah tea, which has achieved carbon neutrality marking net-zero carbon emissions by proactive reductions and offsetting its CO2 emissions.

11,000,000 Litres of water Emirates saves each year by using the drywash technique

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY ONBOARD PRODUCTS Emirates’ newly introduced Economy Class blanket is made from a patented thread called ‘Ecothread’. Each blanket is made from 28 300ml recycled plastic bottles woven into fine thread. Meanwhile, the latest products featured in the iconic A380 shower spa in the First and Business Class lounges are VOYA cosmetics. This range of hand and body creams, shampoo, conditioner, body wash and hand wash are made from sustainable organic seaweed and was formulated exclusively for Emirates.

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 71 12/20/17 5:47 PM GENEVA Emirates’ newest Boeing 777- 300ERs, featuring brand new cabin interiors, now fly to Geneva – so enjoy our guide to this historic Swiss city

WHAT SPRINGS TO MIND when you hear the name Geneva? Watches? Chocolate? Banks? All of the above? But this picture-postcard city on the right bank of the Rhône is perhaps best known as an international hub for all things collaborative. Situated at the western tip of Lake Geneva, the largest freshwater reservoir in Europe, Geneva is a hub of international co-operation, with 200 international organisations based in the city. There’s the World Trade Organisation, the World Health Organisation, and the International Committee of the Red Cross. Not to mention the second-largest branches of the United Nations and the World Bank. Contrary to what most people believe, Geneva is not Switzerland’s capital, rather its second largest city. A city that has the Alps as a backdrop and cobblestone streets lined with cafes. It’s a city with luxury boutiques and grand monuments, but also an impressive array of restaurants that have ensured its solid reputation as the culinary capital of Switzerland. As would be expected of a city cut through by a river and perched by a lake, life in Geneva is centred around water. Its most famous landmark, the Jet d’Eau, shoots water to a height nearly three times that of the Statue of Liberty, while many of the city’s fashionable restaurants and hotels are situated on the banks of the lake. A number of the city’s beautiful parks and promenades are also found there, while high up on the left bank of the Rhône is the Old Town, with its cathedral and town hall.

On Emirates flights to Geneva you can now enjoy the airline’s brand new Boeing 777-300ER cabins featuring the new fully-enclosed First Class suites. For travellers heading to or from Belgium, the new product will be available on flight EK183 to Brussels and EK184 to Dubai.

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CHEZ PHILIPPE LE CHAT BOTTÉ THE HAMBURGER Located in the Starring French and FOUNDATION Passage des Lions, contemporary cuisine This classic Chez Philippe is a from the hands of chef American-style micro-enclave of Dominique Gauthier, burger joint originally New York in the Le Chat Botté is a launched as a food heart of Geneva. A Michelin-starred truck, but is now also stylish steakhouse restaurant on Quai du a restaurant on Rue from acclaimed Mont-Blanc. One of Philippe-Plantamour. restauranteur the finest gastronomic The menu features Philippe Chevrier, all venues in the city, three items – a burger meat is grilled over its menu consists of and two speciality beechwood charcoal delights such as wild cheeseburgers, all to the highest quality. mallard duck from made from locally Expect Swiss beef France, accompanied sourced Swiss from the Alps, and by raisins, muesli and ingredients. pan-fried scallops. Italian squash. thehamburger chezphilippe.ch beau-rivage.ch foundation.ch

HÔTEL LES ARMURES BEAU-RIVAGE D’ANGLETERRE Both a hotel and A landmark hotel Perched majestically restaurant, Les and home to Le Chat on the edge of Lake Armures is a boutique Botté, Beau-Rivage Geneva, D’Angleterre gem housed in a is an elegant spot showcases the best magnificent 17th to stay, offering of British charm century residence in wonderful views of the with the finest the heart of Geneva’s city’s big-attractions: Swiss hospitality. Old Town. Run by the Jet d’Eau, Lake Recognised as one of the Borgeat-Granges Geneva and the snow- Europe’s finest five- family, it has 28 rooms capped summits of star luxury boutique and four junior suites, the Alps. Located on hotels, it provides and has welcomed Quai du Mont-Blanc, it superb views of the Jet a number of famous was founded by Jean- d’Eau and Mont Blanc, guests, including the Jacques Mayer in 1865 and decorations that former US president and remains a family- stretch from African John F Kennedy. owned business. to the Baroque. hotel-les-armures.ch beau-rivage.ch dangleterrehotel.com

THE OLD TOWN INTERNATIONAL RED CENTRE D’ART No trip to Geneva CROSS MUSEUM CONTEMPORAIN would be complete When Henry Dunant GENÈVE without a walk around witnessed the carnage Founded in 1974, this the beautiful Old of the Battle of gallery has seen the Town, replete with Solferino in 1859, he likes of Andy Warhol, an ancient maze of was inspired to create Cindy Sherman, Nan small streets and an “international Goldin and Shirana picturesque squares, principle, inviolate Shabhazi exhibit cafes, restaurants, in character, for the their work. The first galleries, museums relief of the wounded”. contemporary art and historical sights. The formation of the institution in French- Of the latter, the part- Red Cross ensued, speaking Switzerland, Romanesque, part- with this museum with no collection of its Gothic Cathédrale de highlighting the own, it organises four St Pierre is a must fascinating origins. annual exhibitions. when you’re in town. redcrossmuseum.ch centre.ch

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 73 12/20/17 5:47 PM COMFORT

Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

Smart Traveller

DRINK PLENTY TRAVEL WEAR USE SKIN KEEP MAKE SHARPS OF WATER LIGHTLY GLASSES MOISTURISER MOVING YOURSELF BOXES Rehydrate Carry only Cabin air is Apply a Exercise COMFORTABLE Sharps boxes with water the essential drier than good quality your lower Loosen are available or juices items that normal, moisturiser to legs and calf clothing, onboard all frequently. you will therefore ensure your muscles. This remove Emirates flights Drink tea need during swap your skin doesn’t encourages jacket for safe disposal and coffee in your flight. contact dry out. blood flow. and avoid of medical moderation. lenses for anything equipment. glasses. pressing Please ask a against member of your body. your cabin crew for more information.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor before Allow yourself plenty of Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise, travelling if you have time for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long bags through the airport and descent. journey, or if you suffer and onto the flight as this Babies and young from a respiratory or can place the body under passengers may suffer cardiovascular condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any departures try and relax as providing a dummy. vaccinations or special much as possible. Get as comfortable as medications? possible when resting Get a good night’s rest and turn frequently. before the flight. Avoid sleeping for Eat lightly and sensibly. long periods in the same position.

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 74 12/20/17 5:47 PM Experience Polynesia in the heart of

Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts. Create moments to treasure with friends and family when you stay within Polynesian inspired rooms with complimentary theme park tickets,* bond over a meal at amazing restaurants or unwind at the Lapita lazy river. Exactly like nothing else.

Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999

Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel | LapitaHotel | LapitaHotelDubai

*Terms and conditions apply VISA GUIDE

Guide to US customs & immigration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle- free as possible.

All passengers arriving into the US need to Customs Declaration Form complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESTA FACTS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA

NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR THE VISA WAIVER*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* Subject to change ** Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.

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VISA GUIDE

Cut the queue at JFK with Quick Connect If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs And Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow these steps 1 2 3 4 Have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to flight ready for the ground Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of Emirates staff at the transfer staff as you exit. Arrivals Hall. your final destination. counter for your onward flight.

Quarantine in Australia

Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

Quarantine in Japan

Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:

• You have recently been to a livestock farm • Are bringing livestock products into Japan • Your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock

The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 78 12/20/17 5:47 PM This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme UAE SMART GUIDE

Be Smart! Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

Using UAE Smart Gate is easy GATES SMART CAN USE UAE THAT NATIONALITIES

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to 1 be scanned

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card 2 into the card slot

OK! Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the 3 next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your

way just minutes after you have landed. *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling • Machine-readable passports from through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a the above countries matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at • E-Gate cards all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three • Emirates ID cards terminals at DXB.

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 80 12/20/17 5:47 PM emirates advocates.pdf 1 12/21/16 6:31 PM

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS C REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS M MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE Y DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS CM LEGAL TRANSLATION MY DEBT COLLECTION CY TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION CMY PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT K

DUBAI 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI JABEL ALI TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 [email protected] [email protected] SHARJAH INTERNET CITY TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 [email protected] [email protected] RAS AL KHAIMAH TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 [email protected]

UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN 82 / OPEN SKIES

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TRAVEL TO ADDITIONAL DESTINATIONS WITH OUR CODESHARE PARTNERS With 22 codeshare partners in 25 countries (21 airlines and an Air/Rail codeshare arrangement with France’s SNCF/ TGV Air), Emirates has even more flight options, effectively expanding its network by over 300 destinations. Visit emirates.com for full details on our travel partners for full details on our travel Visit emirates.com

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 84 12/20/17 5:47 PM emirates grand.pdf 1 11/21/16 2:08 PM

C

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CM

MY

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CMY

K ROUTE MAP

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 86 12/20/17 5:47 PM INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP

MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.

A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18 Emirates Fleet Our fleet of 272 aircraft includes 258 passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 103 IN FLEET This month: 1 arriving All aircraft

3,000+

20+ aircraft Up to 489-615 passengers. Range: 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

More Live TV equipped aircraft coming soon

BOEING 777-300ER 139 IN FLEET All aircraft

up to 3,000+

100+ aircraft Up to 354-428 passengers. Range: 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 10 IN FLEET All aircraft

3,000+

Up to 266 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-300 5 IN FLEET All aircraft 1,700+ emirates.com/ourfleet emirates.com/ourfleet Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m For more information: more For

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OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 88 12/20/17 5:47 PM OS83.P65-89_Briefing.indd 89 Range: 9,260km.L63.7mxW64.8m Up to 19passengers.Range:7,000km.L33.84mxW34.1m Range: 9,204km.L70.6mxW64.4m HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT ANDSERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ONBOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE Live TV,news * FirstClassandBusinessClass;**Available inallrows inEconomy Class,andinallseatsFirstClassBusiness Shower Spa First Class & sport *Onboard lounge Wi-Fi **In-seat Mobile phone power roaming Data USB port Number of telephone channels In-seat 1 INFLEET 13 INFLEET BOEING 777F EMIRATES SKYCARGO allows thecarriageoflongpieces. in thebelly-holdofpassengeraircraft. The nosedoor oversized shipmentsthatcannotbeaccommodated of approximately three metres, allowstheupliftof tonnes. The deck-sidecargo door, withaheight This aircraft upto iscapableofcarrying 117 1 INFLEET BOEING 747 ERF EMIRATES SKYCARGO non-stop on10-hoursector lengths. uptocapable ofcarrying 103tonnes ofcargo accommodate oversized consignments, itisalso with itswidemain-deckcargo doorwhichcan any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along operated today, withthelowestfuelburnof The mostenvironmentally-friendly freighter at the flexibilityofprivate jettravel. information Further ofourcustomised A319aircraftutmost comfort with personally around theworld.Flyupto 19guestsinthe exceptional to service thehighestlevel to flyyou The Emirates Executive Private Jettakes our AIRBUS A319 emirates-executive.com OPEN SKIES / 89 FLEET 12/20/17 5:47 PM

Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS

Lupita Nyong’o’s GUIDE TO NAIROBI Each month the great and the good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, an Academy Award- and Tony-winning actress

WORDS: Emma Coiler

If you are new to Nairobi, the fi rst thing you should do is check

out the wonderful things we do for animals in the city. Wildlife is such a big part of Kenyan heritage, it’s trusted into our care, and NAIROBI NAIROBI 1.2921° S S 1.2921° 36.8219° E 36.8219° thank goodness there are some good people here doing some really great things. If you would like to eat some classic Kenyan food, then you have to try ugali [a polenta-style dish]. It doesn’t really matter where you get it, fi nding ugali in Nairobi is easier than fi nding pizza in Brooklyn. After a great lunch, what else are you going to do but shop? So I’ll give you a tip: in Kenya it’s cheaper to get clothes made than to buy them. So if you ever wanted a made-to-measure suit or a made-to-measure dress, then Nairobi is a really cost-effective place to do that. After a day out and about, you’ve got to enjoy the city’s nightlife. It’s a really vibrant place and I would suggest starting in the Karen area, which has some of the best restaurants in the city – just see where the night takes you from there. You’ll no doubt fi nd on an evening out that Nairobi, like any big city, can get a little crazy. The next day, head to Karura Forest. It’s a place of real serenity in the city. It’s a beautiful place for a walk or a run – and if you are lucky you’ll see some wildlife on your journey. If you’re looking for a family day out then the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage is an amazing place with fantastic people – and I am honoured to be able to work with them through Wild Aid. Elephants are amazing creatures, and you can come and see orphans before these dedicated people nurse and release them back into the wild. If you want to take your wildlife day even further, then we have a national park in the city. However, if you want really good animal viewing, jump on a safari plane and go and see Amboseli National Park or The Masai Mara. Believe me, you will not regret it.

THE DETAILS EAT Ugali | City-wide NIGHT OUT Karen | Nairobi EXPLORE Amboseli Park | Loitoktok FAMILY Elephant Orphanage | Mbagathi SAFARI The Masai Mara | Rift Valley CHILL Karura Forest | North Nairobi

Emirates flies twice daily to Nairobi with the Boeing 777-300ER. NAIROBI

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OS83.P90_TheGuide.indd 90 12/20/17 5:48 PM Wildlife closer than ever

Animals of different species moved to their new home, Dubai Safari.

Dubai Safari is a project by Dubai Municipality, spread over 119 hectares and aims at providing the best habitat for wildlife; di erent environments that suit various animals. Come explore the Asian village, African village, Open Safari and Children’s Zoo. Relax by the Valley; enjoy a picnic by the waterfall. Watch a show or engage in activities in the theatre. Meet more than 2500 animal species and be part of Dubai Safari!

For more information, please call 800900 (within UAE)

www.dubaisafari.ae AP SP SI EDP 2017 OPEN SKIES 195x260mm MO.indd 1 13/07/2017 14:09