UNI TED STATE S DEPARTMENT or AGRI CULTURE FORE I GNAGRI CULTURAL SER'I CE WAS G ND HI NO C 2 2 0 50 T , . .

' E R RNA T U M

' Kn it s i n We s t er n Enr Ope -Th e i r I mpa c t on Co t ton

FAS M- z sz

P e C s m s e d m e a g 8 h a r t capt id ne a c r o s bot to hou ld r a fr o l f t ,

' A e We e I un t d K n d m l l count r i s , s t G r many , t a ly , i e i g o ,

N nd B e m eth er la nd , a l g iu .

P e en e numbe s t l e t h ou ld r e d 8 0 9 40 r c ta g r a f s a , , 9 , ,

2 0 , a nd o.

P r efa ce

h e chni u ofkni in a r n i ui Th e b eginnings oft te q e tt g e lost in a t q ty . Th e principles of hand knitting as a fabric-form ing process

a a h av b n known for c n uri s. I n r his ori im s ppe r to e ee e t e p e t c t e , w f kni in M ch aniz a io o n ets were m ad e ith a typ e o tt g stit ch . e t n f th ss how v r o ccurr d m uch la r h an th e pro ce , e e , e te t e

w a in lo m . A cura h e v . W d ev elopm ent of the e v g o t e, t R e illiam n land is n rall cr di d wi h in en in th e firs Lee of E g , ge e y e t e t v t g t

kn in m achine in 1 589. This m a chine could kni s o kin itt g , t t c gs; equipm ent like it was used sub st a ntially unchanged for ab out e d of th e 1 sth cen r r r 200 y ears. B y th en t u y, the ota y fram e and w arp fram e h ad appeared ; m ech anical circular knitting was

nv r nd A w er-d riv en m i ented a ou 1 81 6 . po achine capable of sh aping garm ents as th ey were b eing knitt ed was inv ent ed b y ’ W illi n s an his d m a m Cott on i 1 869 , d t evelop ent m ad e possible

- full fashioned knit apparel. The warp knitting m a chine was ’ inv 0 ented also in th e 1 86 s.

From these beginnings h as arisen an im portant sect or of m od rn x il ind us ries th e w orld v r wh os rowth in e te t e t o e , e g th e as d cad has be n nothin sh ort of h n m l p t e e e g (p e o ena .

This report will a tt em pt to set forth and analyz e th ese ’ d e v elo pm ent s and to evaluat e cott on s fut ure role in this im or an se m en of the x ile ind us r in W es ern E ur p t t g t te t t y t ope. C o n t en t s

S U M M A R Y

C H A R A C TER IS TI C S OF K N ITTI N G I N D U STR Y Types of knit s D ev el opm ent of th e industry Characteristics by cou ntry Products of knitgood s ind ustry

G R O WTH OF K N ITS Y arn cons um ption by fiber type Fact ors fost erin g growt h of knit s M anm ade fi b er prod ucers K nitting m achinery prod ucers K nitters and apparel m anufa ct urers Consum ers R ole of International I nstit ute for Cotton

M AN U FA CT U R I N G A S P E C TS Y arns for knitting Cotton yarns i n N yl on , p olyester, acryl c, ble ds Te xt ured Other m anm ade yarns K nittin g m achinery dev elopm ent s Cost com parisons Problem s of knits Yarn probl em s

’ B arr e and other knittin g d efects Di m ensional stability S hrinkage i i n Bleachi ng, dye ng, pr nti g ’ Apparel m aker s problem s ’ Consum ers probl em s

I NTER FIB ER R ELATION S H I P S INEND - PR OD U CTS cki h S to n gs , pantyhose, ose Fabrics U nderw ear O uterw ear S hirt s ’ m n i s d sses bl us W o e s s u t , re , o es ’ e sui M en s slacks, jack ts, ts H o useh ol d item s I nd ustrial item s

O UTLOO K

' u ly 1 9 73 T H R I M PA CT ONco E I r m s

c k t n e , C o to D iv isio n

SUM M ARY

10 12 knit ood s Over the past to years , g have manufacturers to extend the use of manmade fi bers in constituted an ever- i ncreasing porti on of total textile knits and have promoted manmade fi ber knitg ood s

production in Western Europe . at the consumer level .

’ l96os knit ood s R Pri or to the , the g industry of ecognizing the challenge to cotton consumpti on

Western Europe largely produced fi ni shed garments , arisi ng from the growth of knits mainly of manmade l whereas in the recent past it has put greater emphasis fi bers , the Internati onal Institute for Cotton ( 11C ) on the producti on of fabrics . Although a su bstantial has di rected an increased proporti on of its research porti on of the knitting i ndustry still produces tradi and development funds i nto overcoming the pro tional — blem s items sweaters , st ocki ngs , socks , gl oves , and confronting cott on mainly in the knit outer — It underwear the character of the i ndustry has wear market . has fostered research on new types of In changed d ramatically . additi on , s ome textile firms cotton yarns and treatments and techniques t o deal whose traditional busi ness has been solely in woven with shrinkage and dimensi onal stability of cotton 1 . 1 C goods have added knitti ng equipment and expanded fabrics In additi on , the has placed emp hasi s on o i nto the producti on of knit fabrics . promoti on of cott n knit products in Western

The m ost imp ortant single change occurring in European program countries . knits has been the development of knit fabri cs of Traditi onally utilized for knit items such as socks ,

out r varied characteristics suitable for and sewn sport shi ts , and underwear , regular cott on yarns can

’ ’ ap parel , particularly men s and women s outerwear , be pro cessed readily on practi cally all types of equip t whi ch had formerly been mad e almost exclusively of ment o her than tricot type warp knitting machi nes .

“ woven fabrics . This phenomenon rested upon the H owever , they have a num ber of technical parallel improvement of knitti ng equipment and di sadvantages when processed on some types of knit manmade fi ber yarns of all types , parti cularly equipment . For these , cott on yarns must be pliable , textured yarns . A seri ous problem from the stand elasti c , extra fine , and st rong ; as a consequence , their

of fi point cotton interests i s that , for a number of cost may be greater than alternative manmade ber reas ons , cotton has not shared in the growth of knits . yarns that can be used .

M - oreover , some of the maj or end use markets for While it is diffi cult to make cost comparisons

- both cotton and wool have been eroded by knit pro between knit and woven end products , it appears that ducts of manmade fi bers . there is no overwhelmi ng cost advantage to either , 1 1 196 1 1971 ehain The years , to inclusive , have been a and that the choice between them al ong the of peri od of active growth wherein , based on yarn con distri buti on will turn on other economi c considera sumpti on , the knitting indu stries of Western Europe ti ons and on fashi on elements . 1 i have expanded more than 00 percent . The increase Although the growth of k nits has been noth ng

' in several countries has been m ore than double the short of phenomenal , there conti nue to be many

Western European average . In total , Western Europe problems in their production and use . It is li kely that is a net exporter of knit textiles , but imports of knit manmade fi ber producers , knitters , and apparel 1 7 9 0 . goods have expanded rapidly , begi nni ng ab out makers will conti nue to try to work out these

The situati on varies greatly by country . A very sub pro blems and conti nue to push p roducti on and con stantial portion of Italian knitg ood s producti on has sumpti on of knits t o even higher levels .

been directed to the export market for s ome years . A number of factors hav e contributed to the e 'The I nternational I nstitute for otton was founded in 1966 to phenom nal growth of knits . M anmade fi ber pro C i ncrease consu ption of raw cotton and cotto n pr oducts throug h d ucers p m through their research and devel o ment at n s a a s a sa s n a n utiliz io re e rch , m rket re e rch, le promotio , educ tio , nt - 2 activities and thei r cooperati on with and influence on and public rel ations. Cou ries representi ng in 1971 7 a lmost 60 knitting machinery p roducers have contri buted sub percent of the productio n and a bout 40 percent of the exports of t n th n n- n r n co to of e o o u ist orld a e e ers . These cou stantiall C mm w m mb y r . to thi s g owth They have also taken an ri s are: B a n a M i a n an an a U an a t e r zil , Greece , I di , ex co , Sp i , T z i , g d , and and the n s active role working with knitters ap parel U ited State . It , r appears , however that th e dynami c growth of Othe voices maintai n that the chall enge that knit knits in Western Europe may hav e al ready reached its goods have presented to the weav i ng mill can be met .

v It peak . S ome oices still predict continued rapid would be hoped that the challenge of manmade

knit ood s n v growth in g , of manmade fi bers , parti e fi bers to cotton in knit textiles can be o ercome in - ' la rly . But the growth rate has already turned down iew of the dedicati on wit h whi ch cotton interests are

’ and at least in s ome maj or items such as women s attempting to meet it , especially if this dedi cation can

r . double knit d resses and suits , consumer acceptance is be matched with an approp iate budget begi nning to dimi ni sh .

CHAR A CTER HSTICS OF KNIT'HNG IND USTRY

f kn Types o its spaces) in the structure; it takes more yarn to get the

same cover in kni t structures than in woven goods . r W hat is a knit , and h ow d oes it differ from a woven Fab ics , which have experi enced the greatest growth , product' are produced on both weft knitti ng and warp knitti ng

In . a woven fabric , two systems of yarn interlace at machi nes s right angles . Warps run lengt hwise , and filling run crosswise . Depending on the loom capability , yarns of practically any typ e can be u sed . W oven fabrics are resi stant to stretching , unless stretch yarns are used . K nits , on the other hand , are characterized by an interl ocking series of loops of one or more yarns . The

: basi c types of knit goods are ( l ) Weft knits , either single or d ouble , which are made on either circular or f 2 are lat machines , and ( ) warp knit s , of whi ch there n several kinds , the m ost impo rtant bei g tricot ,

R . aschel , and simplex B oth of these maj or types of knit goods have different attri butes and are adaptable for specifi c

a ns a ar n t run n t s . - ri The y r p i le g h i e end uses . A knitter utilizes a va ety of e quipment , m w k w c a yarns , and stit hes to produce a wide r nge of prod R ucts. Except for some aschel types , knits are

e . e. . characterized by lasti city , i , st retch and recovery D ev elopm en t of th e M ost knits are also characteri zed by interst ices ( open in du str y

The knitting sector of the textile industry in W estern Europe and el sewhere has traditi onally been

a maker of garments . There have been some large i kn tting firms but , for the m ost part , knitting firms have been small and medium - size companies that and i purchased yarn sold fi n shed hosiery , cotton knit a underwear (including sleepwe r) , fully fashi oned

cashmere or wool sweaters , gl oves , and other knit

consumer products assu red of a more or less stable,

but not rapidly growing , market . Conservati sm was a t the basi c ch racteri sti c of the indus ry , d evoid of the

pressures of fashi on impact . 1960 Begi nning a bout , however, su bstantial The y arns in a weft knit run a cr oss th e fabric in the filli ng di rection. changes occurred with respect to b oth industry — r r r r . st uctu e and p oducts manufactu ed The maj or i ncrease in some types part icularly double knit , R — n r p r r , developme t has been the a id ise in the p oduc aschel tri cot , and high pile and the replacement

for - ti on of knit fabric cut and sewn apparel of older by more mod ern e quipm ent . 1960 1971 of knit ood s manufacture , made possi ble by the development of Between and , producti on g

double knit fabrics suitable for outerwear . Th ese i n Western Europe expanded over percent

fabri cs first appeared in Western Europe in the early annually , while producti on of woven goods has been

’

f . i 50 s o wool. 9 and were made The maj or impetus for m ore or less stagnant However , there was probably the fa brics came with the availa bility of textured not thi s great a difference at the consumer level

manmade fi ber yarn , specifically acetate and because of the high incidence of woven goods imports r non~ E uro ean polyester . f om p sources duri ng that period .

Concurrently , there was some decline in the k relative importance of fully fashi oned nitg ood s. The

popularity of nyl on seamless h osiery , whi ch is Char acter istics t hermoset to shape or left unboarded (unshaped) ,

largely replaced seamed h osi ery . The somewhat later b u n r devel opment of pantyhose and women’ s outerwear y co t y styles that fostered thei r use also contri but ed to the The size and character of th e k nitting industries changed character of th e busi ness . Although tradi and the rapidity with whi ch they are adapti ng to these tional knitters still turn out traditi onal products , t hese developments and others have m the recent past changes vary from country to country . The knit boom in Western Europe started in West Germany subj ected knitg ood s producers to the vagari es of 1 ’ 96 0 s. fashion trends and caused a revoluti on in the around the early Th e i ndust ri es in France ,

S pai n , and Italy caught the fever s omewhat later, and i ndustry . 1970 these countries are still ex periencing rapid growth , n , I it was estimat ed that there were over w n r knitting machines of vari ous types in place in hile i n West G erma y prod ucti on i nc eases have

dropped to a lower growth rate . In Italy , where there the world , most of them in Western Europe . About a 9 550 in 1971 were , active fi rms , a small percentage of thi rd of the world total was in W est Germany . M the firms accounted for a very large portion of total easured by output or by yarn consumpti on , West

. 80 fi Germany also has the disti ncti on of havi ng the largest producti on About percent of the rms had fewer 10 knitting industry in W estern Europe foll owed by the than empl oyees . Cottage p roducti on is a K characteristi c of the Italian knit i ndustry . Although U nited ingdom , Italy , and France . Compared with Italy’ s expansi on in the knit arena came at a later , k t t these four the nitti ng indus ries of ot her Wes ern r stage than other maj or West European p oducers , it European countri es are small , although some of has captured a large export market with its low prices these, parti cularly in S pai n and P ortugal , have shown

and or high styles . Belgian and French firms are still phenomenal growth .

’ mainly garment producers . In the same year, t he world s kni tti ng equi pment by K In th e U nited i ngdom , there are a bout 800 type was as foll ows : 70 manufacturing units , of whi ch percent employ less 2 00 . m achines t han people A maj or manmad e fi ber producer in the U nited Ki ngd om owns ab out 35 percent of the Double knit weft machi nery and about 70 percent of the warp knit Single knit ( including full equipment in the country . Alth ough there are some fashio ned mach i ne s w i th o ne need e bar) - knit ood s l spi nner weavers enteri ng g production , ' R as chel there rem ain many small producers undergoing con T rico t sid erable pressures to integrate into larger , more Seamle ss ho se Half ho se efficient units . High i e . p l ' The industry in the N etherlands is relatively small Oth er circular knit It has its traditi onal knitters , but one Dutch weaver

S o d rce: M od ern Te tiles A r 1 9 71 R n has converted completely t o knit ood s production , i a g x p l , yo P sh n Ne Y w t b i i g or or i y . e u l C p k C while another has gon st rongly into warp k nits , but

continues to produce woven fabri c . W est Germany had been the leading prod ucer of Later data on the num bers of knitting machines in fabri cs for many years but lost thi s di sti ncti on in 1967 ai n a K place are n ot av lable; however , there is probab ly a when it was overt ken by the U nited i ngdom . West Germany continues to be the largest producer of sid erable influence on the kni tti ng industry and its K underwear , wit h the U nited i ngdom , Italy , and choi ce of fi bers .

France also import ant producers . Italy has been the

v outstanding producer of outerwear, o ertaking the P r u s of kn it o o d s 7 od ct g West German v olume in 196 . Within these basi c nati onal differences , some in du str y general trends emerge . Alt hough some small and medium - si ze family firms have conti nued to operate The maj or product classifi cati ons of the knitg ood s i i n the same old way , others are meeti ng the new con i ndustry are underwear, outerwear, st ock ngs and ditions by a variety of methods . S ome have formed related products , fabri cs , products for industrial and buying groups to purchase yarn , some have consoli household use , and apparel . Withi n these categories f dated int o large more diversifi ed fi rms , some have are hosiery , socks , gloves , sleepwear, in ant wear , t ri ed to meet the challenge by changi ng their trad i swim suits , hats and caps , tights , pantyhose and body k an tional producti on and sales systems . Am ong these stoc i ngs , d other specialty items . Also made on

w rn v k p , o e et inno ati ons , not the least impo rtant is the installa nitti ng equi ment are lace p and other

, r , t ion of new , effi cient flexi ble producti on equip fabrics used for foundati on ga ments and brassieres

. , r , , m r r r m ent I n additi on large weavi ng compani es have cu tain fabrics fi shnets ther al unde wea fab i cs , a entered knit fab ric p roducti on t o counter ct loss of crochet fabri cs , bonding fabri cs , etc . Production of n v . I sales in wo en fabrics some countri es , manmade each of the maj or categories has expanded in the past fi ber producers , through corp orate ti es or fi nanci ng decade , but the greatest growth has occurred i n

arrangements with knitti ng compani es and with fabrics , for which producti on expanded almost 300

v t 1960 197 r 0 . knitti ng machinery manufacturers , ha e exe ed con percent between and

GROW TH OF KNITS

100 1 1 196 1 1971 The rapid increase in volume and importance of percent in the years between and , an

i . kn tting in the textile industry has been s o great in average annual i ncrease of percent In total , the

’ Western Europe since the early 1960 s that it has been i ncrease in yarn consumpti on has vari ed from practi “ i 1965 1 66 1 5 . kn t ood s 9 termed an expl osi on Based on weight , g cally nil between and to more than per have ri sen from about 10 percent of all text il es pro cent between the years 1962 and 1963 and between

uced 1 1 7 l- v d 960 8 19 0 1968 1 969 . in to percent in and proj ections and While bel ow the l year a erage , the for 1 985 place the proporti on between 30 and 50 per growth rate at percent co ntinued between 1970

. rev olu 1971 . cent Statisti cs have not caught up with the and , the latest year for whi ch data are available M tion in the i ndustry , b ut , regardless of the data used , it easured by yarn consumptio n , the increase in knit ood s i s apparent that numbersof machi nes have increased , g producti on has been substantial i n all In yarn c onsumpti on has increased , output has zoomed , countries except N orway . the EC countries , it

knit - and the proporti on of g ood s produced in com almost d oubled in the 1 1 year peri od under review . knit ood s pari son with woven goods has ri sen dramatically . Whil e West Germany remain s the largest g

Com parability of data between countries is s ome i ndustry in W estern Eu rope and the world , its growth In what diffi cult . some countries , weavers p roduci ng of percent has been t opped by Italy with a knit g ood s report p roducti on and other data to woven growth of percent . S ome of the smaller knit t goods industry associati ons , rather han t he knit goods producing nati ons , notably Swit zerland and

d . . n goods in ustry associati ons Stati sti cs o knit yarn S pai n , also have high growth rates consumpti on or knitg ood s producti on may not be There are little other data to compare knitg ood s uniformly included; consequently , the data may not output among countri es except fabri c production

v be enti rely valid or com parable , especially for the stati sti cs , whi ch must be e aluated in the li ght of knit

. consum early years With thi s caveat , data on yarn p products that are manufactured di rectly , such as fully In t ion by knitting industri es , publi shed by the fashi oned items . Western Europe , fabric produc Organi zation for E conomi c Cooperation and ti on has expanded from j ust under 180 milli on v 7 De elopment and by the Internati onal S ecretariat of pounds in 1960 to milli on in 19 0. Data for K 1 1971 v the nitti ng Industri es , are shown in table . are incomplete but where a ailabl e the growth

Y arn consumpti on in Western Europe rose over appears to be conti nui ng . — - n h e n tt n n str s st rn E r 1 9 6 1 71 . a 1 . Yarn ns t t T ble co ump io by k i i g i du ie of We e u ope ,

Cou ntry 1 9 6 2 1 9 6 3 1 9 6 4 1 9 65 1 9 6 6 1 9 6 7 1 9 68 1 9 69 1 9 70 1 9 71

M P er e t il. c n l b .

2 4 9 12 124 9

P ) ( 1 ) ( l ) ( 1 ) ( 1 ) ( I ) ( 1 ) ( 1 )

‘ ’ ‘ ( 1 ) ( l l ) ( l

To ta l Other We stern E urope

Tota lWe ste rn E u rope

2 Not v E a a a st at il ble . im e .

Sou rce : R eports of Organ izatio n fo r Eco nomic Cooperatio n and Developme nt (O ECD) and S ecre tari at lnternatio na ld es lnd ustries la M a P a s de ille , ri .

The impact on the weavi ng sector of the textile Trade in knitg ood s has significance in some kni industry from the tg ood s expl osi on is evident in Western European count ri es . The maj or countries of

knit ood s the accompanying chart s . As g production Western Europe exp ort in aggregate value more knit 1 3 1 7 96 96 . expanded sharply between and , produc t extile p roducts than they imp ort Italy is by far the M ’ tion of woven good s dropped rather preci pit ously , largest exp orter . ost of Italy s exports consist of

“ ' ff — lt li n o . a a but has leveled somewhat si nce then It is evident , outerwear the famous knits , which have however , that t he growth i n fabric production in maintai ned a fashi on image for a number of years .

“ ’ Western Europe ha s accrued to knitg ood s rather than Italy s exports are about 75 percent greater in value to In K . U woven the nited i ngd om , an index of textile t han the exports of West Germany with a much larger

2 producti on ( based on 1958 100) shows knitting pro i ndustry . France and Great Britai n also have a large ducti on standi ng at 171 in 1968 and weavi ng of cotton export market for outerwear and fabri cs . On the 65 m nm , n , n and a ad e fi bers at includi g the processing of other hand despite substa tial exports , West knit . a ood s filament yarn I n West Germany the impact of the G erm ny is a very large net impo rter of g ,

“ knit ood s g explosi on on woven goods product ion is foll owed by the N etherlands , France , and the U nited in K . d . reflected informati on on pro ucti on equipment In i ngd om , in descendi ng order of value t he 2- year peri od 1967to 1969 the num ber of knitting This report d eals only with the knitg ood s machi nes increased from to while industries of Western Europe even though imports cotton looms were reduced from to In add to the volume of knitg ood s avai lable to 1960 the knitting industry accounted for percent consum ers in countri es wit h negative trade balances in of the yarn consumed in W est Germany , while by and su btract from the volume those with greater 1970 it accounted for percent of total . exp orts than imports . - n tted a r r t i e rn a 2 . K i n n st T ble i f b ic p oduc o W e P rod uction Of S ta nd ard W ov en Good s 1 9 6“1 97“ 1 971 a nd Knitted Good s in the EEC and EFTA , W IGHT INDE' E Cou ntry 1 9 70

TTED GOO DS

Total E co nomic Commu n ity ’ 3 ‘ 6 4

ta th st rn and st r n “ To l o er We e So urce M arket Co T e ds for Wo ven and K nitted E r 1 34 -7 o e s a s s D r. ar B r M ana r r t u p Good , ddre by Gerh d ockel , ge P oduc

lann n t M a n r v s n G ebrud er l A G . P i g , Tex ile chi e y Di i io , Su zer , Tota l st rn E r 1 76 -7 6 59 -4 ' We e o e W nt t r S witz eiland at th e General ss l the u p i er hu , , A emb y of I nternatio nal Federation of Cotton a nd Al lied Textile I ndustr ise 2 1 a n t r 1 971 ' Sp i , c obe Not ava a r t nt of a and In st a il ble . F om Dep r me Tr de du ry O

r : t on i s n ra r nt on ar s Sou ce S udy Text le , Ge e l Ag eeme T iff P rod uction of (S ta nd ard W ov en a nd n 2 . a d ra n va. r 1 7 T de , Ge e Dece e 9 mb Knitted GOOCIS in the EEC EFTA (w ithout Finla nd )

a — st r n E r r T ble 3. We e u opea n t ade in k nitg oo d s all t s 1 971 of ype ,

Cou ntry Imports E xports

KNITTED GOO D S

1961 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

Source M arket and Cost Trends for Wo v en and Knitted d ' r B r s, ad ress by D r. ar , M ana r r t ’ ‘ Good Ge h d oc el ge P oduc To ta abo ve CO U II tl IeS k l lann n Texitle M a n r vis n Gebr d er r A G . P i g, chi e y Di io , u Sulze , nt rt r t rlan at th e n ra ss m the Wi e hu , Swi ze d , Ge e l A e bly of S ource Stati sti q ues 1 9 71 S ecretari at Inte rnatio nal d es I nternatio nal Federation of Cotton and Allied Textile I ndustrise Ind str s la M a l ar s. IF I a n t r 1 971 u ie de i le , P i ( CAT ) , Sp i , Oc obe .

6 K The U nited i ngd om , a maj or producer of man Yar n con su m ption by made fi ber , s hows the worst positi on for cott on , n w r fiber type explai able to a substantial degree by the o ne ship of much of the knitti ng capacity by maj or manmade Cotton has n ot shared prop orti onately in the 3 fi ber producers . Cotton constituted a bout 5 percent

phenomenal growth of the knitti ng industry . The of total yarns consum ed in knitg ood s in 1960 whi le in maj or advance has been by noncellul osic manmade 1971 cotton’ s share of total had fallen to only 1 1 per fi ber yarns whi ch compete not only with cott on but ' a cent Again , wool was maj or loser als o , dropping with wool as well a s other manmade fi bers and silk . from 36 percent to 15 percent . M anmad e fi bers of all ’ - a For s ome end uses , for ex mple , women s hosiery 70 types totaled percent , a propo rti on not reached and pantyhose , noncell ul osi c manmade fi bers 64 noncellul ic elsewhere; of thi s , percent were os s and compete with neither cotton n or wool . A simple com 6 percent cellul osi cs . parison between the total v olume of manmade fi bers From changes already o ccu rri ng , one could expect knit d s and cott on consumed in g oo actually over t hat the large ma nmade fi ber indust ries in Western states the impact of manmade fi bers on cotton E uropen countri es will conti nue to try to push markets . H owever, such a compari son is useful t o i ncreasi ng quantiti es of manmad e into thei r k nitti ng Show the difference in growth rates between the fi bers i ndustri es . used in knitg ood s. 1960 I n , yarn consumpti on by West ern European knitters totaled j ust over 759 million pounds ; by 1971 Fa r s f s er n r w it had reached billi on p ou nds , an increase of over cto o t i g g o th 40 100 percent . Cotton constituted about percent of o f kn 1960 23 1971 its the total , but only about percent of the t otal . On the other hand , t he use of noncellulosic kni d s manmade fi bers grew from und er 16 percent of the The rapi d rise in the growt h of tg oo suggests that unusual factors have been in thi s sector of the 1960 total to 55 percent of the larger 1971 aggregate . While consumptio n of cotton yarns increased 1 7per t extile market . P erhaps , rather , it is the interaction of cent from 302 milli on p ounds t o 354 mi llion p ounds a com bi nati on of factors that has produced the knit “ ' 1960 and 1971 explosi on . The influence of the manmade fi ber pro between , consumption of d ucers noncellulosi c fi ber yarns increased over 600 percent of Europe and the infl uen ce of the knitting r i ifi from 12 1 millio n to 856 milli on pounds in the same machi nery manufacturers are pa ti cularly s gn

ca nt . The vari ous adva ntages to manufacturers pro peri od . d ucin ls There are su bstantial differences between coun g and to consumers usi ng knit goods have a o

. a tries in the growth rate between fibers consumed in been i mportant to thei r growth In ddition , the knit emergence in the Western Europe as a net g ood s. Cott on was the maj or knitti ng yarn in the 53 importer of woven textiles put great pressures on N etherlands , constituti ng over percent of total i n w a . as 1960 1971 was a - textile and app rel manufacturers There n o such , while by cotto n bout one thi rd of knit ood s fi er rn comparable pressure from imports of g ; this . a b a total W ool was lso a loser, but manmade y ,

fialm ent und oubtedly encouraged expansi on int o knits . parti cularly noncellul osi c , rose from ab out

- — 12 percent to just over 50 p ercent in the same 1 l year M anm ad e fi ber prod u cers There is little doubt

. a c peri od In both West Germany and Fr nce , cotton t hat manmade fiber manufa turers have played an 47 r w constituted about percent of total knitting yarn in i mportant role in foste i ng the gro t h of knits . These , 1960 n 2 fl a d 5 1 1 . , only about percent years lat er . I n i n uences have been both di rect and indirect The 2 1960 and v these years , ( wool dropped from poli ci es of manmade fi ber producers ha e been over 25 percent t o j ust over 15 percent in West designed to provi de outl ets for thei r fi ber produc

; 1971 , m Germany by , n oncellul osi c fi ber yarns ti on and uch of thei r research and devel opment

52 . a . w k n constituted percent of tot l In France , wo ol or is di rected to that end I n s everal cou tri es of 2 i dropped from 5 percent to 13 percent in the same Europe , knitti ng compan es are owned enti rely or in

; and 1971 n , w n peri od by , noncellul osi c fi ber yarns part by ma made fi ber producers ho consta tly

. 57 . m k m m constituted percent In Belgiu , cott on dropped see ways to axi ize the use of thei r fi bers If prod 4 1 1 6 1 n from percent of total yarns i n 9 0 to 9 percent in ets , such as underwear, cannot be made enti rely of ' 1971 42 27 are , while wool decli ned from percent to per manmade fi bers , yarns blended with cott on “

noncellulosics 1 1 48 m . cent , and rose from percent to utili zed as a matter of co pany p oli cy In its an nual

percent . report , a large Briti sh manmade fi ber company

This attitude can also be found in some European knit ood s g industries , but o n the whole , the assistance of manmade fi ber producers is wel comed . —M K nitti ng m achinery prod ucers . anmade fiber producers also put pressures on knit machinery manufacturers , with whom they may or may n ot have In fi nancial connecti ons . turn , the machinery “ manufacturers play a role in creati ng a world . of

' r fashio n at thei r laborato i es , t o show knitters the product range of thei r equi pment to encourage M maximum sale and use . odern equi pment coupled with a wide vari ety of yarns create an almost end less possi bility of fabri c design , and thi s is exploited to the utmost . — Knitters and apparel m an ufact urers From the standp oi nt of fabri c and apparel manufacturers , the t rend to knits has provi ded an opportunity for profits based on qui ck turnover . On the average a manufacturer requi res 3 mont hs from date of order taki ng to compl ete the manufacturi ng cycle for k nit 6 goods compared to mont hs for woven goods . Knitters are able to keep st ocks to a minimum and to m ove with rapid and somewhat unpred ict able K changes in fashi on . nitti ng has fewer processing and

i v distri but on steps than wea i ng . As a consequence t he severity of fluctuati ons in the textile cycle with its alternate peri ods of st ock accumulati ons and redue ti on is mi nimi zed . Also , it may be relatively less costly t o develop new fabri cs wit h vari ous types of yarns , designs , finishes , etc . , because a sampl e fabri c can be made with less preparati on and in smaller batches o n knitting than on weavi ng equipment . In addit ion , it is easier for apparel manufacturers to integrate backward by knitti ng cl oth than to produce thei r own woven goods whi ch , in order to be economically viable , require a bigger capital investm ent .

From the standpoi nt of the cutt er , there is an advantage in the use of wide goods , whi ch can be cut with less waste—than narrower goods . A h Co nsum ers. important aspect of the phenomenal growth of knits has been their acceptance by consumers . It has been estimated that the elasti city of consum er d emand in the Econ omic Community for all textiles is but that it is for knit outerwear and less than for underwear . A study made by the Industri al C ouncil for Textiles and

Cl othi ng , Brussel s , reports that expenditures for clothi ng i n Belgium almost d oubled between 1954 1 and 968 . The p orti on consi sti ng of k nit clothing was about 27 percent of total in 1954 and has risen consistently each year until it represent ed 37percent

7 1971 nt na nal a n Kn n , , before I er tio Feder tio of itti g Tech nologists. i ri of t otal in 1968 . Esti mates from a different s ource Other organ zati ons and p vate fi rms in Western i ndicate that in 1970 knits constituted 35 percent of Europe and in the U nited S tates a reworki ng on prob all clothing in West Germany and 20 percent in lems associated with the use of cotton in knits . If there

France . is convi ction that a market for cotton knit end

- use From the standp oi nt of end qualities , products i s there or can b e devel oped , experimental n a consumers turned to k its for comfort , particularly work in these vari ous p robl em are s will probably be

- ease of m ovement , performan ce related t o wrinkle pushed to conclusi on on a profit maki ng basis .

. IIC resist ance , versatility , and easy care in laundering The is also the maj or instrument giving

Fashi on also played a part . Consumer accept ability is imp etus to cotton promoti on in Western Europe . The accounted for in part by the youthful revolut ion activities undertaken i n program countries i nclude h r , agai nst traditi onal clot i ng (fo exampl e plain white consumer advertising, merchandi si ng and store underwear) and the casual ap pearance and h igh style prom oti ons in associati on with leading garment

k . k of s ome nit out erwear The youth mar et i n the makers , trade p ress adverti si ng, di stri bution of K m r - ri and U nited ingdo accounts fo about one h alf of the display mate al , fab ri c servi ces , other related clothes purchased . The growt h of lei sure and the activities . U nder li cense agreement with knitt ers the relat ed demand for clot hes t o fit the occas ion als o 11C provi des a cotton embl em to identify good

a . contri bute to the ppeal of knits t o the consumer quality cott on p roducts . The cott on emblem links the

Outerwear sales are di rectly relat ed to fashion , and pro ducts to the consumer benefits of cott on . The sales of fashi on goods are infl uenced m ore by style emblem can be used only in connecti on wit h prod uct and price than by fi ber . s made of cotton and identifi ed by a brand name

or trade m ark . R o le of In ter n ation al In stitu te for Cotton

The I nt ernati onal Institute for Cotton ( 11C ) con ducts market and technical research and carries out sales promoti on and publi c relati ons di rect ed from its Brussels offi ce on behalf of cotton in 1 3 West

5 v European countries . In i ew of the new imp ort ance of knitting in the textil e ind ustry over the p ast d ecade , IIC has focused attenti on on a num ber of cott on ’ s m ost urgent problems in thi s segment of the textile market . With respect to cott on knits , research has been undertaken on di mensi onal stability , elasticity , t ease of care , and the devel opmen of yarns with M i special attri butes for knitti ng . ach nery develop ments that could improve cotton’ s compet itive p os i ti on are also being given att enti on . This research is carried on by or und er the auspices of the 11C at the

tt n nt nat na nst t t for tt n . M l . o o e ble o I er io l I i u e o o S hi rley Institute in anchester , Eng and C m m f C

M ANUFA CTURING A SP ECTS

T r n for kn n a s itti g are manufactured; and regardl ess of t he type used ,

yarns are a substantial cost item in knitg oods. 6 There is a great vari ety of b oth natural and man Accordi ng to D . G . B . Thomas of the Shirley Institute made fi ber yarn from whi ch knit products can be and the choi ce of yarn is always a compromise between

“ 5 st a B n a nlan n t 6 N a s an U Y R N INR KNIN A R E THE Au ri , elgium , De m rk , Fi d , Fr ce , We Germ y , SP A S WA P ITT G; WHAT ' ta Na the Nt an s ain n l n n P R P ' t a a d E . B . . as ns t I ly , orw y , e herl d , Sp , Swede , Swi zer d , OS CTS by D G Thom , Shirley I titu e , i M n the Un t K n . 'a an s a s a ra nt . a st E n an Tex tile M onth 1 71 s 9 . i ed i gdom p l o prog m cou ry che er, gl d , , Augu t

10 t he needs of knitti ng effi ci ency a nd availabi lity of the yarns used on tri cot machi nes are almost always h n m m r , n , yar , axi um cost fo the fi ni s ed fabric a d the combed si nce the p rimary troubl e in knitt ing spun attai nment of attractive design . In other words , yarn yarn on warp knitti ng machi nery is associated with count (size) must be coordi nated with the the hairi ness of the fi bers and their tendency to cling characteristi cs of th e machi ne on which it is t o be t ogether .

p t t , used , arti cularly he cut or gauge of the equipmen In additi on to the basi c card ed , com bed , and

- r t r . and the desi red p oper i es in end p oduct merceri zed yarns of cotton , there are specialized k l The economi c si ze of a nitti ng unit in terms of types with imited markets , such as core spun with an yarn consumpti on is small er than the econom ic size elast omer or stretch nyl on c omponent .

i. e. . of a spinning , , yarn producing , unit Therefore , S everal recent d evel opments in cotton y arns offer knitters are generally not yarn spi nners . S ome large the p ossi bility of thei r increased use in knitting . One spinner—weavers who have add ed knitting opera of these is break s pu n , or Open end , yarns invented in ti ons supply their yarn needs for knitting but , i n Czechoslovaki a about 1967. These yarns are now general , knitters buy yarn on the sales yarn market made und er li cense i n a number of other countries . i rather than make it . Th s p ractice mi nim izes invest Break spun yarns are uniform and freer from knots ment in raw materials and maximi zes yarn variety for and rovid e t han conventi onal ri ng spun yarn , p good “ ' “ ' style merchandi se . cover; they are cri sp and a bit more hairy than - ns. Cotton yar As a general rul e , cotton knitt ing conventi onal yarns . In knitted products , break spun yarns must be of bett er quality with less variation in yarns give different handle and elasticity . They cross secti on and more even count than cotton yarns average about 20 percent less strength than convem M for weavi ng . ost spun yarns for weft knitt ing have tionalyarns but have fewer very weak places because re l ow twist , whi ch gives a soft hand t o the finished p of their greater regularity . The strengt h of break spun d e h- u t; however, hig twist ya rns are required for some yarn s is suffi cient for ci rcular knitt ing and for types of warp knitti ng because of the extreme ten weaving , but not for warp knitti ng . The relative lower sions caused by the pro cess . Pli ed yarns may be used strength of break spun yarn does not necessarily hi n t o overcome t n a d soft spot s found in singles , b_ut result in weak fabri cs . Because of lower labor input , th e plied yarns cost relatively more than si ngles of break spun yarns are less expensive to manufacture same size . Tw o or more end s of si ngl e yarn run ning t han ri ng spun yarns in the lower counts . H owever , into each gui de may al so be used to average out weak a where offered , they are selli ng at bout the same price places . Gasing and waxi ng are used to overcome the as conventio nal yarns . Accordi ng to the problems associated with fi ber entanglement and lint I nternati onal Institute for Cotton, results look depositi on . Si zing provi des s ome additi onal strength promi si ng for its research on break spun y arns of 100 needed for knitti ng cott on yarns , particularly for percent cotton for knitti ng . warps . The use of spun yarns for k nitti ng inhi bits snagging Another yarn d evel opm ent that may advance and reduces the ai r permea bility whi ch is o bj ect ion cotton in knitt ing is that of twistless yarn , a process

- . , able for some ki nds of e nd prod ucts . Although fi la still in it infancy In thi s syst em of product ion yarns ment yarns are more efficient to knit and can be run are bleached in rovi ng form , d raft ed wet , subj ected to ' ' inactiv e starch crossw ound ri applicati on of an , and o n at higher speeds , the se of spun yarns alone or in com bi nati on yi elds a fab ric with fewer undesirable packages whi ch are steam ed for about an hour at ° 1 10 C . Conventi onal spun yarns achi eve interfiber properties . b the Cotton yarns used for knitti ng are oft en made of cohesi on by pressures created y twist , but the use h of conventi onal spun yarns for ci rcular knitg ood s high grade , long stapl e c otton w i ch is com bed and K nd results in a fabric wit h torque . nitt ed a woven mercerized . In Europe, Peruvian Tanguis cott on is n fabrics of reasonably cl ose construction made of favored for some types of k it apparel , especially a has S twistless yarns are held togeth er by the interactio n of underwear , bec use it valuable pinning

. properties which extend to th e fi ni shed garment . t he l ooped or i nt erlaced yarns There is no torque

U sers of Peruvi an cott on o btai n results with carded when twi stless yarns are used for ci rcular knits . yarn that compare favorably with com bed yarn of The system of twi stl ess yarn production , best other types of cott on . It is st ronger than other utilized with cotton and flax fi bers , was d eveloped by n . R 0 cottons Its unusual whit eness permits the garme t to t he Dutch Textile esearch Institute (TN ) in Delft . '

. nv n be sold in the grey , thus savi ng on bleaching costs Twistless yarns have less shri nkage than co e tional Spun yarns may be used i n si ngle j ersey , double yarns , make a sm oother fabri c, are more

R . ri i j ersey , and in aschel and simpl ex fabrics Cotton lustrous and b lliant , and g ve better cover; also ,

1 1 v In fi although the yarns are softer and more abs orpt i e , the early years , rayon and acetat e lament yarn abrasi on resi stance is bett er than in fabrics of the had been used very successfully for knit lingerie and m same type with conventi onal yarns . Product ion dress fabrics , nyl on also became relatively i portant

’ - - : 125 200 1950 s . speeds are very fast to met ers per minute , around the mi d for the same end uses 1 2 fi compared with an average of met ers p er minute for Polyester, whi ch was rst available in the m id

’ 30 i 1950 s rt 1960 ring spun and meters p er m nute for break spun . , d evel oped in impo ance before , and Another type that giv es promise of expanding found a place in knitg ood s when textured p olyester “ ' cott on use in knits is Prograde yarn processed with was produced in v olume around 1963. U ntil then flat liquid ammoni a , produced ori gi nal ly for the filament yarns of polyest er were used mainly for manufacture of thread i n England . The Progr ade tricot k nitti ng . Textured yarns extended t heir us e r h process imp a ts increased strength or permits use of a i nt o circular double kni t j erseys , w i ch was enhanced It l ower grade of cotton to attai n the same strength . is by the availability of dyed yarns to capital ize on the

v i . an alternati e process to mercerizi ng , and costs about pattern ng capability of double knit equipm ent

r i r i , u o half t he me ceri z ng t eatment because of e l m ina Acryli c especially in the b l ked f rm , is used for ti on of ancillary pro cesses . Advantages of amm onia outerwear su ch as sweaters . Acryli c outerwear finds a treated cotton yarns are improved tenacity, increased ready market b ecause of its pri ce and ease of care M r , , r r , . luste improved handl e low impe fect ion ate and compared to wool oreover , it is suitable for

. very low shri nkage W hen knit fabri c of this type of apparel duri ng all s easons of the year . ri M yarn is wet and tumble d ed after knitting , tens ions anm ade fi ber yarns of two or more fi bers either put int o it by knitti ng are removed and it is in filament or o spun form are sometimes used for 1 8 completely stabl e to repeat ed launderi ng . This kind knits . For exampl e , in Bel gi um , yarns of percent of performance will be a tremendous b oost to cotton nyl on and 82 percent polyvi nyl chlori de are used for i n knitg ood s. underwear because it creates stati c electricity when Limited quantities of ammo ni a treat ed cotton worn and i s regarded as helpful to people W ith h yarns are marketed in England in a c ount range of rheumati sm . Bl ended yarns of igh wet modulus

’ ’ - 4 tw o ply 20 s to 0 s. W hil e much of the d evelopm ent rayon and cott on were used for underwear i n the — K 10 work was carri ed out on two pli ed yarns , single yarns U nited i ngdom , at a p ri ce of arou nd percent less have als o been tested for k nit s and have proved to at the retail level than for an all - cotton product given have superi or qualiti es . 1971 fi ber pri ce relati onshi ps . Polyest er and cotton Prototype equi pment for the manufacture of this blend yarns are begi nni ng to appear in women ’ s kn it 1 7 9 3 . type of yarn i s to be test ed in , prior to commer outerwear Polyester and acryli c blends are als o i l c a uf . scal e man acturi ng The sole right to important . Nyl on is us ed in bl ends wi th other man

u i a fi man facture and market mach nery for continuous made or natur l bers for rei nforcing , add ing

r r pr r r . treatment of cotton yarn by the P og ade ocess was strength and—ab asi on esi stance gr anted to an English machinery manufacturer by the Textured Textured manmade fiber filament patent holder . The machinery manufacturer w ill yarns have added a whol e new dimension to yarn license processors who will be subj ect to a royalty types i n the past two decades . S ome hold the view payment t o the patent holder on a commercial yarn that one textured yarn —polyester—m ore than any

1 - productio n basi s . The 1 C has been co opted to pro other fact or has been resp onsi ble for the kn it vide techni cal assessment of knitti ng yarns and to revoluti on . in 1 952 contri bute marketi ng and promoti on expertise on , text ured nylon became available in West fabrics and garments . Germany and textured polyester in the U nited v m K 1 In S ome consi derati on is bei ng gi en t o co bining i ngd om around 963. the U nited Kingdom the

- ni break spun and amm o a treated cott on yarns t o maj or manmade fi ber producer, l mperial Chem ical lC l obtai n complementary features of both; the break Industri es ( ) , acqui red the pat ent rights for

v fi spun bei ng bulky , nonlustrous and relati ely weak , texturi ng polyester l am ent from the inventor i n

r r 1959 . 1968 l f and the ammonia treated cotton ya ns being lust ous By , it had i censed barely hal a dozen and strong . i K — throwsters in the U n t ed i ngdom , wh o became b d s N ylon , polyester, acryli c, len N ylon yarn known as the Cri mpl ene Cl ub and who sold only o l l sc red its first big success in knit application under the Crimplene lab el . C maint ained strict

. r al M in stocki ngs In additi on , it i s now used in g eat qu ity controls over thei r p roducti on . ergers that

r p , , ri r 1 971 lC l 35 quantities fo antyhose s ocks t cot kn it fab ics , occurred in resulted in owning over per and double k nit and interl ock fabri cs for cut and cent of total t extured yarn capacity in the U nited sewn apparel . K i ngd om .

12

i ' n r of experimentati on in the U n ted States , apan , and by this tech i que afte having been sewn into

Western Europe as l ong as there is a market t o garments; by thi s means , the design can be carried

challenge the ingenuity of invent ors and producers . from the front or back of a garment ont o the sleeves

without a break . Des pite all of the recent advances that h ave been

m n er . K n ittin g achi y made , further advan ces can be expected New knitting machi nes will incorporat e more flexibility dev elopm en ts and many types will be able to bett er handle spun

yarns , an obvi ous plus for c ott on . There is little d oubt that recent machinery develop ments have been largely responsi ble for the d ynam ic i growth in many segments of the kn tt ing industry . C s m ar s n s Also , t here has been an int eracti on between m an o t co p i o made fi ber yarn devel opment and machinery development; the availabi lity of fil am ent yarns with Comparison s between manufacturing costs for fineness and tenacity has permitted the use of finer similar fabrics made by weavi ng a nd knitting and fi ner gauge knitti ng machi nes producing kn it processes are diffi cult at best . It is difficult even to i apparel of lighter and l ght er weight . compare cost data for exactly the same fabr ic The two basi c classes of k nitti ng machinery—weft manufactured by different com pani es or different — and warp are divid ed into _ m any subclasses and plants of the sam e company because of the varia R u . , r variati ons adi cal development s in c irc lar ti ons i n cost fact ors diffe ent accounting methods , d oubleknit machi nery have been responsible for the and cost all ocati ons . Irrespective of cost relat ion breakthrough of knits into market areas that were s hi ps it is certai n that all types of weaving and varia ni traditi onally th e reserve of woven goods . Although ti ons of k tti ng are economi cally vi able for s ome

- M the greatest changes in knitting technology in recent specific end uses . oreover , cost comparis ons are ' —r years have been on d oubl e knit machi nery , there n ow impossi ble for s ome end p oducts that can be only r i may be more effo t to improve and increase the prod n , r , . s woven or k tt ed fo exam ple hosiery A l o , the uet range for warp knits . One of the more promisi ng relative cost of converti ng yarn int o cloth may be new devel opments is machinery in which filling yarns significant in certai n stages in the manufacturing and are inserted across a warp knitti ng b ed . The resu lting distributi on chai n but relati vely insignificant in the i R fabrics are stable in wi dt h , stret chy in length , and t otal cost of a fi n shed product . ealizing these ’ ’ e suitable for a wi de vari ety of men s and women s limitati ons it is of int rest , h owever , to com pare the outerwear, household , and i ndustri al goods . relative costs of produci ng fabri c manufactured by

' In u additi on to advan ces i n bas ic knitting weavi ng and man factured by knitt ing , s ince for

- machinery , there have been numerous improve s ome end uses they are com petitive products . ments in knitti ng needl es and i n equipm ent that pre In general , m ore capital is involved in setting u p a i o . pares yarn , supp rts y arn supply , rel axes knitting unit of weavi ng than kn tting Based on a p lant pro d ucin 2 o f 2 1 , i g n r o . 9 structures and handl es knitt ed fabri c with l ttle or n o milli met e s fabri c ( mi llion yards) , i i m t ension duri ng dyei ng, fi n sh ng, and cutt ing . the investment difference has been esti ated t o be ' 67 Although the acquard approach is still by far the about percent greater for weavi ng, mainly because e i m n . r r e , m ost important method of i parting d es ig , strides m o mach nery and space a e need d True in have been made in printi ng knitt ed fabr ics . An dependi ng on type and si ze, si ngle circular kn it novati on called “ transfer pri nti ng' uses a s eries of machines may cost t o double kn it heated rollers or flat p ress typ e equipment by which machi nes to warp knit machines designs on paper are transferred under pressure to to or more compared to to ' fabric to be pri nted . Best results are obt ained with or more for looms , depending on the type ,

100- al i percent polyester fabri cs , though nylon and width , and sop h sti cati on of equipm ent attached triacetate fabri cs can also be used . Sat isfactory thereto . Even though mod ern double knit equ ip ri i l transfer p nts were obtai ned orig na l y with fabrics ment may cost considerably more than a loom , about

25 c - containi ng no more than p er ent cotton wool , or one t hi rd fewer machi nes will yi eld the same amount

' w so that for silk i n an intimat e bl end it h t hermop lastic m an of fabric , the investment costs the mach ine of l . made fibers; however, the use transfer printing o n itse f may be nearly equal 100 percent natural fi bers is to be introduced com The am ortizati on of k nitting equipm ent may be 5 m erciall 1 7 K y 9 3. n r 10 in i tt ed fab ri cs have been p inted years comp ared to years for looms , which gener

14 ally have longer worki ng life . For weft kn itting in polyester yarn for the woven fabri c . Fabric weights particular , there is littl e or n o requirement for yarn were considered comparable . Despite the d ifferences preparati on machi nery, while for weavi ng , there are and variati ons involved , it would appear that there is several preparatory st eps , such as the wind ing of no gre at advantage that would give either weaving or

filling yarn on pirns and preparation of warps on knitting a leadi ng p ositi on from a cost standpoint . beams , these st eps require additional capital This conclusi on seems warrant ed , p articularly at this

fl . expenditures , equi pment , and oorspace in a p lant time , when the full p otential of neit her woven i Then , t oo , fi n shi ng equi pment for woven fabrics processes , weft knitti ng processes , nor warp knitting

may be up to three times more costly than for kn it processes has yet been full y exhausted . Knit ood s goods . g can oft en be finished by only scouri ng . Comparisons of manufacturing costs for kn itted P r oblem s o f kn its and woven fabri cs have been made by Dr . Gerhard n r w r kn w Brockel , associ ated wit h a leading Sw iss The wo d ous o ld of i t s is not ithout prob u man facturer of both weavi ng and knitt ing equip lems to the knitter , the converter , the apparel a ttr i ment . For purposes of comparison , estimates were manufacturer , and the consum er . The maj or

- based on a three shift operati on producing mil bute of knitted goods , stret ch , is i n many ways a of l r li on meters cl oth per y ear, utili zing ( ) modern disadvantage in compari son with the fi mness and

- high speed weavi ng ma chi nery of 85 w idth and ( 2) predictability of woven fabrics . Other d ifficu lt ies

48- n feed ci rcular doubl e k it machines , both arise from the type of fi ber from which a kn it pro

’ manufacturing light weight women s outerwear duct is made . These diffi culties appear from t he uf a fabrics of a wool and manmade fi ber blend yarn . In m an acturing st ge to t he poi nt of final use . A e n t t m t r this mod l , prod ucti on costs for knitting were slightly tech i cal explana i on of he p robl e s encoun e ed in higher . It was p oi nted out , however , that for d ifferent the manufacturi ng processes is outside the scope of end products and different labor cond itions , cost this report; however , the types of problems that are

i . relations hips would sh ft . particularly important are mentioned The results of thi s study may be summarized as N ewer high speed knitti ng equipment has less follows : A maj or difference was the higher cost y arn t olerance than looms . The range of yarn sizes that can 8 l needed for knitti ng, estimat ed to be about percent be used on some is i mited , and it is d ifficult to keep

i . over the cost of weav ng yarn The s horter d eprecia the equi pment runni ng effici ently . S ome have a h igh “ ' ti on peri od for knitti ng machinery and greater rate of d own time . This i s part icularly true of am ount of d efective materi als produced by knitting R aschel and of cert ai n oth er specialized t ypes of

- . . e equipment were also maj or cost items ( Estim ates equipment Cons q uently, the much heralded high suggest d efect rate of 8 to 1 5 percent for d oub le knits speeds of knit p roducti on must be evaluated a gainst e 2 c compar d with percent rat e for wovens , a lthough the actual produ t—i vity of each type of equipment . a n r obl m s. defective woven goods are correctable to a greater Y r p e High speed knitting equipment ,

. knittin l . aces t degree ) Fi nishing costs were est imated to be particul arly for warp g , , p grea d em ands

7 . . a approximately percent lower for knit goods On the on yarn Lack of h ai riness , pli ability , e l sticity , and o are side of labor producti vity , s me cost d ifferences are strength very impo rt ant character is tics for

f . notable . To manu acture the same quantity of goods , knitti ng yarns It is imp ort ant als o that yarn count

10 i 30 - at operatives for three sh fts , or man days , wou ld ( si ze) be even or , least,that t he devi ation from be required for knitti ng; 8 operatives for three shifts count be uniform . plus 4 laborers worki ng one s hift on preliminary It would appear that requirements can best be met

totl 28 - i operati ons , making a of man days , p lus some by untextured filament yarn , whi ch is nherently a m endin d e artm ent addition l labor in the g p would be stronger , smooth , and quit e even in d iameter com required for weavi ng . Lower costs for garment make pared to spun yarn . Fri cti on is created as yarn moves up are involved for woven fabric garments than for t hrough knitti ng machi nery, especi ally warp k nitting i and . knit fabri c garments that are cut sewn equipment; th s fri cti on tends to dam age s pun yarn .

a . . . r A simil r exerci se was undertaken by Dr W P Because spun yarn is rel ati vely uneven , i t requi es

Schneider , associated with the same machinery slower speeds on some machi nes to avo id excess ive ’ manufacturer . Schnei der s study was bas ed on breakage . 40 2 shirt ing fabri c utilizi ng deni er nylon for the kn it In warp knitti ng, there are about 5 such p oints of

c 50 50 . fabri and blended percent cotton / percent friction In West Germany, t ests run on warp knit

1 5 machi nery produced courses per minute us ing or stripes . These may be caused by d ifferences in the fi at 800 t filament yarn , about courses p er minute us ing lengt h of yarn in a given leng h of fabric because of 800 textured yarn , and under courses per m inute differences in the yarn feed from the cones to the s using cott on yarn . Tests have dem ons trated , needles or differences in the tight nes of the stitch

B r i . ar e however , that gi ven the right combination of yarn itself may als o be the result of d fferences in h , p r and mac i ne s un yarns need not be knitted mo e yarn texture , especi ally of m anm ade fiber filament

. d r , slowly Cotton int e ests are conti nuing to seek ways yarn , which has been t ext ure result ing i n varia t o prepare cotton yarn that will utilize fully the h igh tions in the manner in w hi ch it will k nit . Differences speed potenti al of knitti ng e qu ipm ent . i n yarn texture can be caused by variat ion i n the

r r v From a techni cal standp oi nt , cotton h as no g eater deg ee of crimp in indi idual filam ents , differences in problems than any other spun y arn , which is n ot on ly overall bulk of yarn , or the overstret ching of y arn .

v i . i somewhat une en but h a ry Cott on or wool must , of S ome of the new d oubl e kn t machi nes are fed from as s 48 course , be pun t o be m ade into yarn , As a general m any as cones of yarn , each of wh ich must con rule of thumb , it is estim at ed that the cost of tain yarn that is abs olutely u niform and fed under the

ni u 30 - operating k tting eq i pment may be up t o per same tensi on in order to produce a defect free fabri c . It cent greater for spun yarns than for filament yarns . While it is claimed that textured p olyester filament 75 80 2 is estimated that to percent operat ing efficiency yarn has a defect rate of about only p ercent , even 93 can be achi eved wi th spun yarn , compared with to that am ount can rui n a great deal of fabric if not

95 . percent for syntheti c filament yarn , although it is detected and eliminated Thi s raises the question of recognized that efficiency rat es vary by type of equ ip ~ the necessity or desirability of the knitter to inspect r ment , yarn type , yarn c ha acteristics , and the yarn from different packages for uniformity before

- x . comple ity of the design bei ng produced use , although within package variation would

Another drawback of spun yarn is the creat ion of remain a source of trouble . fly as spun yarn moves through process ing . Fly is If m anmade fi ber yarn or even b lended

- i s hort , light weight w ast e fi bers that break l oose polyester cotton yarn is run through knitting equ p f a ir during manufacturing and w hi ch may loat in the ment t oo fast , melt spots are produced , and the for a while before settli ng . W hen fly gathers at fr ic resulting hol es and slubs create defect ive fabrics . i M tion p oi nts in the mach nery , it can cause d ifficulties , oreover, improper design of knit fabrics result in fl flm a c i ncluding n eedl e de ecti on or breakage , wh ich in i sy or unstable f bri s su bj ect to d is tortion or not ro er l turn results in holes in the fabric . If fly is p p y damage in handli ng .

i - handled , espec ally on fi ne gauge equipm ent , yarn In order to reduce distortion , yarn should be M “ breakage wi ll also result . odern knitting equip introduced to the knitti ng needles with p ositive ment has aut omati c devi ces for collect ing fly so that feed ' devi ces that all ow knitti ng to take place at lower the problem is no longer as si gnifi cant as it once was . yarn tensi ons; on the other end of the operation ,

Proper lubricati on of cott on yarn reduces fly go ods must be taken up on roll s without stretch . Even problems and al so helps deal with problems related to with all the precauti ons that can be taken , it is not som et es knit ood s tension and fricti on . unusual for yp of g to vary in width For yarns used on ci rcular single and d ouble kn it from plus to mi nus 5 per—cent . R a . machines , and on aschel w rp k nit machines , fine Dimensional st ability Fabrics for outerwear are ness is not a criti cal fact or . Co arser , less expens ive required to be st able dim ensionally and easy to care yarns may be used . Y arn fineness is extrem ely for . As they come from a knitti ng m ach ine , cotton

v - important , howe er , for u se on fine gauge tricot fabrics have consi derable el asticity but they d o not It i M . equipment . anmad e fi ber filament yarns for warp recover well when stret ched is des rable to

15- 20 - knits are in the deni er range . Fi ne count cotton eliminate such dimensi on al instabi lit y to as great a yarns can be knit on tri cot equipment provi di ng they degree as possible , and it can be done t o a certain

ri are sufficiently stro ng . Cotton y arn costs se sharply extent by such techniques as construction changes , 1 00— with increased fi neness , and must be com pared with resin tre atment for percent cott on products , and v n alternati es; however , higher yar costs sh ould not feeder blends where a yarn of text ured p olyester is fed deter the knitter who is wi lling to produce a product int o the knit structure interspaced with cotton yarn .

r r . i for whi ch comm ensu at e prices can be cha ged On the other hand , kn tgoods of therm op lastic fibers —A B arre and other knittin g defects . maj or such as nylon and polyester and even po lyester b lends i of arn difficulty in kn tt ing when using certain types y , with cott on or cellulosic fibers or rat ios no less than

2 - 11C notably textured polyest er , is producti on of goods 5 percent polyester can be heat set to shape . The “ e s with barr , d efect s charact erized by repeating bars is seeki ng through research to find fini hing

16 techniques for cotton knits that a chieve shape reten original one to three sizes after laundering . The tion when wo—rn or washed . problem of lengthwise shrin kage is aggravated by the h inka . S r ge The tend ency of k nits to s hrink is a use of tumble dryers , but these are not generally avail

problem every step of the way from the k nitter t o the able for hom e laundry in Western Europe . consumer . The interloopi ng of yarns bu ilds tens ions ' ari ous systems for reduci ng shrinkage are avail

. f into knit fabrics This tensi on can be largely rem oved . able . One o the b est k nown and widely used sys tems Fabrics treated for shri nk resi stance will have a mechani cally compresses k nitted st itches in the

2 ar res idual shri nkage of percent o r less , comp ed w ith lengt hwise directi on to com pensat e for the inherent 3 1 6 to percent for untreat ed fabri cs , depend ing o n shrinkage built in by tensi on introduced during the u i rocesses f the fiber and knit stret ch . man facturi ng and fi n shing p W ith “ ' a S hrinkage is also a seri ous problem in the processes relaxing systems usi ng st e m , vi brations , or other 5 of scouring (washing) , bl eaching, dyeing , pr inting , mechanical means , shri nkage can be limited to per

1 . and finishing of k nit goods . U nless preshrunk by the cent , sometimes even as littl e as percent However , knitter , fabri c widths change in the dyeing and poor treatments will give uneven shrinkage and are finishi ng process and reach the fi nal finishing frame not satisfact ory . at variance wit h the d esired u niform width . In order Ironically, one European underwear manufacturer

’ e t o meet cutt ers demands for specifi c widths , finishers who had perfect d his preshri nk system found that he have been known to stret ch fabrics as much as 25 per could not educate consum ers to buy the correct s ize in w n , t n n k , cent , which ill result shri kage equ ivalent to two because d espite he i format ion o the p ac age they dress sizes duri ng subsequent steaming b y an apparel did not change thei r life- l ong habit of buying a s ize manufacturer . that was too large before laundering . W ith h is under

k w t n , a af . S hrin age is a problem i h k its of any fiber but wear , it was also to o l rge ter laundering As a

n r . C to a greater extent with cotto than othe s otton result , he abandoned the manufacture or preshrunk knits are readily dist o rt ed duri ng the knitting and underwear .

n . k w , n fi ishing processes When nit goods are etted the Eve u nder optimum conditions , there are changes stress relaxes and the knit st ructure tends to assume i n fabric constructi on w hen compactors are used . The untensioned an conditi on, whi ch results in shrinkage yi eld i n fabri c lengt h is d ecreased p roportionately to aft w n t n . er ashi g and um bl e dryi g the shrinkage; consequently, if the s ame yarns and r k The degree of sh in age depends upon the con constructi on are used , fabric weight is increased by n struction characteristics and s hrinkage potential of t he shrinkage treatment . I order to arrive at ; k t the fabric each type of fabric or nit produc has approxim ately the s ame p roduct after shrinkage , the

. M different shri nkage fact ors oreover , for some types num ber of stitches per inch can be d ecreased , y arn i e. , k , . , s of fabrics shrin age is progressive continues for s izes can be decreas ed , and fi ni shed width can be

. m a number of washings Tests of branded underwear i ncreased . Apparel anufact urers wou ld a lso need to on the Dutch market were found to shrink from 12 make adj ustments in p att ern si zes and cutting 18 percent t o percent , am ounts that often result in t olerances . a n g rments that were too sm all aft er the first washing . Economical shri kage control techniques are bas ic 5 ’ A shrinkage fact or of a bout percent is cons idered to expansi on of cotton s role in knitted outerwear . commerci ally accept abl e, and consumers have There are several re asons why the pres hrink treat accommodated themselves to this degree of ments that are avail able have not been more widely shrinkage by buying o ne si ze larger than body used . The pri ncipal o bj ecti on is the loss of length and

t . r n measuremen s would seem t o requ ire One la ge t herefore of valu e, si ce i n Western Europe kn it n French k itter reported the inability to find a method n th . fabrics are usually sold on the basis of le g Then , a of reduci ng the shrinkage of fully f sh ioned cotton too , manufacturers h ave n ot been pressured by

8 n . goods to perce t or less consumers for shrin kpro of garments , but with the Sometimes the fault lies with the apparel growing import ance of mai l order companies and w e manufacturer ho tries t o reduce costs and utilizes chain st ores in W st ern Europe , st andards are being

m c . , his a hi nery poorly For example properly fitting tightened and more knitt ed cott ons , especially for i can a n n . undersh rts i a full range of sizes o n ly be made w , n outer e r are bei g gi ve sh—ri nkproof finishes k n m w B l chin d in rin in by a set of ci rcular si ngle it achines ith g, y , t — ea e g p g As for w oven goods , diameters graduated by 2 i nch in crements from 12 to there are tw o basic met hods of obtaining color in 24 . m m n r : 1 2 inches S o e mills h ave achi ery of o nly one o knitted products ( ) U se of col ored yarns , and ( )

possi bly three si zes . The produ ct thereof is stretched printing or dyei ng aft er fabric or garment is to - . i make a full range of si zes whi ch shrink back to the manufactured In Europe , a kn tter can obtain yarns

17 If in a wide range of colors from spinners . a knitter is ot her constructi on a ccess ories wit h sufficient stretch

ki - v r not ma ng yarn dyed goods and does not ha e s o as t o be compatible wi th outerwea fabr ics , for i . i facilities to dye fabri cs , th s is d one on a custom b as is adj usting patterns to account for behavior d fferences c n , pr r s In bleachi ng and d yei g continuous o esses a e between knit and woven fabrics , for us ing fini hing not suit able for many knit fabrics , especially of man techniques that account for the special prob lems of made fi bers and of blends with cotton . The knit garments . Needl e holes in gar ments can be continuous process makes a rope of the fabr ic which avoided from needle fri ction only if s lower than is pulled through gui des into and out of dye b aths , norm al needle speed s are used when stitching

. i bleach tanks , and dryers The method of hand ling therm oplasti c kn t fabri cs . The use of special ball resu lts in shading and streaking of the color , and sets point needles also helps to a void need le cutt ing . — R al a a . cre ses i n fabric very serious prob lem for man emov of stitched seams , hems , etc , i n kn it a u made fibers , unlike cott on . As result , it is more su it apparel by apparel man facturers , retailers , or end t able (and more expensive) to use slower batch users d oes not yield s atisfac ory results , U ltrasonic processes whi ch involve more openness and less “ stitchi ng' is one met hod used to avoid s ome of these M o tens ion on the fabric being finished . problems . aj r alterati ons cannot be s atisfactorily

r - - It is difficult to dye or print polyester and n ylon pe formed on garment s that h ave been s et to shape . In goods because dye uptake is not un iform . add i For example, retailers experience prob lems cuffing ti on , if pastel col ors are used , it is difficult to rem ove knit therm opl ast ic fab ri c trousers since they d o n ot the dirt that accumul at ed i n the manufacturing have eq ui pment to reset the shape of the b ottom of “ h l process wit hout spoili ng the appe arance of the fabr ic. t he trouser leg . T i s imits the accept ability of kn it

n in s From a fashi on poi nt of view , it may be sig ificant apparel for cert a styl e of garments .

’ ’ - — m for s ome end uses that cott on d oes n ot take as br il Cons u ers pro blem s. From the consumer s ' li ant a dye as some types of manmade fibers . ar i standpoi nt , knits are n ot wi thout d rawb acks . Bas ic ability in cott on yarn necessit at es more frequent cotton si ngle knit underwear tends to lose its shape and adj ustments in the dye form ul a and , for some deep is subj ect to progressi ve shrinkage . S hape reten

. ofd ouble colors , a longer tim e to achieve the s ame effect tion h as been one of the strongp oints knits

outerw earf nf v H owever , it is even more cos tly to dye for U ortunately, desp ite ad ances , polyester cott on blends because two types of d yes are cott on d ouble knits leave much to be d es ired ; when m the ob . sa required t o d o j This p roblem is som et i es met stretched , they g and do not recover the ir shape

by stock dyeing the two fi bers sep arately before completely . It will be a great b oon to consumers when

’ r spinning int o a blend ed y arn . cotton s prog ess i n the laborat ory with respect t o ’ — Apparel maker s pr oblems . The apparel shape retenti on reaches the marketplace in a ll end m anufacturer has his own set of prob lems w ith kn its . uses . One of the most import ant relates to the d imens ional Polyester fil ament d ouble knits h ave excellent i h instability of kn t fabrics , w i ch require careful ten shape retent ion , but another more serious — sionless spreadi ng ont o the cutt ing table and special problem snaggi ng . The texturing wh ich gives n a care during garment construction . The less rigid polyester filame t enough cover for use in outerwe r character of kni t fabri cs cause difficu lt ies in the sets l oops in the filaments which eas ily catch on

c . transfer of cut garment pi e es in aut om ated p lants , everyt hi ng that i s not perfect ly sm ooth If the fabr ic antisna compared to the more ri gid character of woven has not been treated wit h g finis hes , d ouble l t fabrics that are easily handled by p neum atic devices . knit garments soon have fuzz or pu led yarns a These p roblems can be mitigat ed by the use of proper points of cont act with rough obj ects and p laces of

a . . equipment and speci lly trained personnel The high friction I n obtai ning the c onvenience of easy care ,

defect rate for knit fabri cs gives cutters us ing them the consumer pays a high price in appearance . Warp

more difficulty than they have wit h woven fabr ics . knits give better performance on this score . Another This has led to di scussi on of the need for industry problem with fi lament yarn d ouble knits is their air — wide standards for knit goods . poros ity they are breezy and uncomfortable in the

The difficulties of sewi ng fabrics with a fat h and wind or cold . Thi s can be overcome to some extent by ar have required cutters to utilize patterns for app el the use of li ni ngs or by the mixt ure of spun yarns . As a iv m i and with minimal construction d et ails , thus g g r se to result of fi ber properties their construction , kni design monotony for knit garm ents . Other special certai n nyl on and polyester tg ood s are trans

in . problems are encountered in making up knit apparel parent , especi ally li ght col ors Then , too , some

of thermoplastic fibers , s uch as the need for us ing women obj ect to the s ameness of polyester double w i sewing thread ith elasti c properties and linings and knit fabrics , wh ch may account in p art for the lack of

1 8 recent growth in Europe for the use of this fabr ic in wear standpoi nt . Experiments of other organiza ’ cotton ol ester women s outerwear . ti ons on / p y blends show

Polyest er and nylon knits are subject to burn h oles im provement of wear characteristics , but resu lt in

from hot cigarette ashes , fire sparks , a nd so forth . pilling and dyei ng problems . Anot her serious consumer problem is o ily spot an d As in the case of shrinkage co ntrol for u nderwear

s oi l retenti on , especi ally by polyester fabrics ; and industrial fabrics , there is for outerwear fabrics

consequently , the washabilit y of such apparel is of relat ively new commerci al equi pm ent which corn l questionable va ue if the apparel does not come bines a resin treatm ent wi th mechanical compacting . '

clean in the wash . Easy care characteristi cs remai n a maj or consum er

According to the I nternational I nstitute for attracti on in W estern Europe , even t hough the ir

’ - l Cott on , a bout one ha f of cott on s market is in end advantage cannot be fully capt ured for the lack of

n II . uses where e asy care fi ishes are imp ortant . C tum ble dryers in the hom e Consequent ly , the search recognizes that failure to fi nd an answer t o th is for economi c methods to meet the prob lem is being problem for b oth knitt ed and woven outerwear cou ld pursued by the Int ernati onal Institute for Cotton and

’ have a seri ous effect on cotton s longterm future as a such other organi zati ons as t he S outhern R egion al 7 R U S . textile fiber . esearch Laborat ory of the Department of

100- At present , there is no treatment for percent Agriculture , and Cott on , I ncorporated , a research s cott on products that achieves s atisfactory ea y care and promoti on organi zati on in the U nited S tates . n r a d shrinkage control wit hout loss of other d es irable Commerci ally accept abl e fi nishing t eatment , IIC concen properties; however, the continues t o shrink resistance, d im ensi onal stability , and easy care trate effort on fi nding an easy care finish for 100 properties would greatly improve cotton ’ s com peti

percent cott on product s that wi ll perform well from a tive p ositi on .

INTERFIB ER RELATIONSHIP S IN END -P RODUCTS

’ knit ood s fa a The relative importance of g in s everal m anu ctured for sp eci lty uses , infant s wear , and

. a . c a major product cat egories varies great ly U nivers lly , luxury items France produ es a sizable qu ntity of “ ' knit s an g ood have exclusive in h os iery and wool hose compared wit h other countries , a lthough m anufa sweaters; in most countries , woven goods have notable q uantiti es of wo ol h osi ery are als o c

. tured almost all of the sheet market Between these two in the S candi navian count ri es and in A ustria . extreme p ositi ons are numerous comm odities in

knit o d s a which g o are import ant , and in many c s es Fabr s rapidly advanci ng . ic

Where informati on could be found , t his section presents a brief review of the relati ve importance of K nitted fabri cs as well as woven fabrics should knit o d s cotton to total g o markets by maj or prod probably not be considered end products , b ut rather

ucts. , r The data are not uniform by country; for some , semifinished products si nce they are fu ther a they are completely lacking . Analys is of that avail processed int o ap parel and h ousehold and indus tr i l

able i nformati on shows that for m any products the products . S ome rel atively small s hare of t otal kn it position of cotton and wool has weakened as man fabrics has been sold over ret ail counters for dress m has made fi bers have assumed great er imp ortance . making, and thi s segment of the arket been r rapidly expandi ng i n recent years . For pu p oses of l n i this analysis , such fabri c is considered a o g w th that k n n e e Stoc i gs, pa tyhos , hos further processed in factories . K nit fabri cs are of many varieties ; they range from 80 M anmade fi bers h olds more than percent of the light weight filmy mat eri als for li ngerie and b louses to

’ ’ hos iery , pantyhose , and hose market i n Western heavy materi als and fake furs for men s and women s R l . t Europe ela ivel y sm a l quantities of cotton hose are coats , with endless numbers of types between thes e

two extremes . In recent years a wide var iety of suit 7“ ’ v n n . an a Impro i g Cotto Fiber Structure, by S All He p , able knit fabri cs h as been produced for women s and R s a M ana n nat nal nst n in a ’ e e rch ger, I ter io I itute of otto , p per ’ C . children s dresses —and suits Fabrics for men s su its , 'an a . iv n at n v n n n anta Ga . g e Cotto Impro eme t Co fere ce, Atl , , u ry — 1971 t . j ackets , and slacks are of tw o maj or types hose that

19 appear frankly to b e knits a nd those that are im ita fabrics as published by the N at ional H os iery ’ 8 tive of woven fabrics . M anufacturers Associati on with the data on warp

Interstoff ai ~ F rs , held s emi annually i n Frankfurt , knit fabri c provi ded by others , who are mainly pro d uc r 1 960 1971 e e s . G ermany , for the purpos e of bringi ng together sell rs of woven fabrics I n the period to

- s . and buyers of fabric in Europe , h ave recently producti on of knitted fabric increa ed over five fo ld reflected the great upsurge of interest in and use of The most rapidly growi ng segment w as weft fabr ics . knit fabrics for out erwear . S ome knit fabr ics s hown There is no fi ber breakd own availab le for warp kn it I nterstoff knit ood s 5 at are readi ly ident ifiable as g ; fabrics , but it is estim at ed that o nly about percent of

- . In 1 71 1 . 9 00 others , such as knit corduroy . are not A full range of t otal fi ber used is cotton , percent cotton — l fabrics is sh own si ng e knit nylon , acrylic kn it constituted only percent of the yar n us ed for weft

ar 62 1960 . fabrics , and wool knit fabrics that are printed , p lain , knit fabrics comp ed t o over percent in ' ofa ll 2 and acquard , and p olyester d ouble kn its types , Blended y arns with cotton were about percent of M m l i an . . n ncellu os cs d blends of a vari ety of fiber com b inations t otal an ade fibers , especially o , Specialty fabri cs of lacy appearance and nylon accounted for over 70 p ercent in 1 971 compar ed w ith “ 12 1 j erseys processed to h ave the wet look all seek the less than percent in 960. It is apparent that in the K a attention of European and Am erican fabr ic buyers . U nited i ngdom , cott on h as n ot sh red in the growth The Internati onal Institut e for Cotton maintains a of knit fabrics although som e improvem ent in ’ Cotton Center at Interstoff which disp lays many cotton s p osition was not ed in ear ly 1 972 . K cotton fabric samples of new des ign ideas . n its These extremes are not typical of other Western i nclude yarn dyed single cott on j erseys and cotton European countries . The proport ion of cotton t o al n pi que from It y, yarn d yed cott on d oub le knits from total fibers used i the produ ct ion of k nit fabrics in R K France , heavy aschel cott on fabrics from the U nited the U nited i ngdom i s less th an in , other Western K r n ingdom , and many other exciting innovations from Eu opean countries i view of the subs tantial contr ol all over Europe that have proved attractive to t he by manmade fi ber producers of kn it production apparel manufacturers of Europe and the U nited facilities in that country .

States . In Fabric innovati ons are als o seen elsew here . the i fl Un er w e r N etherlands , kn t pile oor c overing of c otton has d a

- been devel oped . All cott on knit terry cloth w ith im proved stretch recovery especi ally suitable for K nitted underwear remains a stronghold for beach and sportswe ar i s available i n the U nited cotton throughout Western Europe . Even so , in the n K ingdom . Double k it fabrics of cotton for outer years for which data are avai lable , it appears that ’ wear b oth in 100- percent cotton and cott on in b lends cotton s share of tot al knit underwear market is

. . r with polyester , acryli c, nylo n , and wool are found d opping Coated fabri cs for app arel and h ouseho ld and indus Of the units of u nderwear domest ically produced trial uses are made alm ost entirely from p lain cotton and sold in the d omestic market , cotton accounts for 90 j ersey base cloth . H owever , despite t he niche that over percent in Bel gi um ( not includ ing p antyhose , and 7 , ) , 0 p r cott on knit fabrics pres ently have , i t is small com le otards tights over ercent i n F ance , a a 55 n r m , w ; 60 pared to the place of ma m ade fibers , p articu la ly Den rk and S itzerl nd to percent in K . n , polyester and acryli c, in the knit fabri c area N orway a d the U nited ingdom and about one In Data avail able indi cate that while cotton con thi rd in Austria , Finland , and Swed en . the N ordic h i as , r p sumption in k nits h as ncre ed , cotton d id not share countries a elatively i gh pro ortion of wool is l l proportionately in the explos ive expans ion between used . ta i an p roducti on dat a (which include exports)

1 n 1 , 960 a d 1971 . 960 , , For exampl e, in France pro i ndicate that underwear of cotton wool b lends and d u ced mi llion pounds of knit fabr ics ; 1 1 years fibers ot her than m anm ad es account for over 60 per f o . later t he tot al was mi llion pounds . Although cent total units cotton knit cloth producti on in that p eriod increased Instead of the plain or ri bbed single j ersey us ed in ’

35 1 2 , r percent , cotton constituted only p ercent in the the U nited States men s undershi ts in Europe are

- . . m latter year, compared to over one third in the former ade of several basic fabric types The most i s u r . o 75 k , On the other h and , n ncellulosic fiber constituted important a circ la knit eyelet fabric I nterloc 1 971 27 percent in , comp ared to percent in the earlier 8 ' In Un t K n the s has a t na i ed i gdo , ter ho iery tr di io lly years . m m n l h ir n n t e n in s . v s t is now K i c uded e t e k itti g du try Howe er, ome effor For the U ni ted i ngd om , the d ata o n knit fabrics “ ' “ ' bei ng m ade to revi se the use of the term s hosiery a nd kn itti ng n s in n can be estimated by com bini ng data for weft kn it i du try li e with practice el sewhere .

20 the problem of finding a wide v ariety of di stincti v e Textured p olyester is als o used for warp kn its for

’ ’ fabri cs for v arious types of women s outerwear; knits women s dresses ; it h as better d rape and softer t ouch were seized upon as they added a new dimension to than circul ar knits , but less s hape retention . N ylon the materials with which t o work . jersey is also a p opular d ress fabric because of its soft

There is a wide range of knit fabr ics suitable for drape and the brilli ant col ors that can be obtained .

’ ’ r 3- Pattern range for prints is also extended by the avail women s and children s outerwea , from ounce fabrics suitable for bl ouses and children ’s wear to 2 2 ability of transfer print ing techniques for thermo f — plastic fabrics . While the use o textured polyes ter or 24 ounce cl oths designed for coats and t o med ium — double knits m ay h ave passed an all time high in weight cloth designed for dresses and suits . The ’ v w omen s outerwear , the p ositi on of knits rem ain ariety of text ures o bt ai ned b y knitted d es igns , d yed

ar d strong in this market . or with colored y ns , adde to the many types and weights of fabri c offer a great d ivers ity of fabr ics for th ose end uses . ’ lilien s ck k e su sla s, jac ts , its As a consequence , knits have assum ed an ’ I t important pl ace i n wom en s outerwear . is esti 1970 As of , knits held a minor place in this category of al 1 969 mated that tot dresses produced in , kn its of app arel; but a maj or push was bei ng made to make 40 30 ’ accounted for p ercent in the N ether lands , per up for the reduced demand for women s knit in 48 50 ’ cent Bel gium , percent in Germ any , p ercent in M outerwear . en s slacks , j ackets , and suits are 55 K Scandinavi a, p ercent in the U nited ingdom , and in generally made of wool woven fabri cs , heavi er only 2 0 percent in Sp ain . h f Europe than in t e U nited Stat es . The gai n o ol ester som e kn Of these, most were textured p y , were it o od s pr _ g in these oducts does not consti tute a ft tal . O o wool and acrylic, and very few were cott on threat to cotton markets , except as inroads are made ’ 1 969 M ’ women s suits produced in , knits accounted for into the market for j eans . ost men s outerwear 50 percent i n the U nited Kingd om and 5 5 p ercent in knitg ood s have been made of textured polyester or

l r w l ' l nd the Net herlands ; of these most were p o lyester double po yeste / oo b e double knit fabric . While in ’ al 30 knit . Of tot women s slacks , about percent of the Europe the discomfort of p olyester i n hot weather

- i M European market was knits , of which about one th rd may be minimal except in the editerranean coun

- . r , was stretch nylon ski pants In W es t Ge m any it is tries , p olyester outerwear for men feels too cold to ’

r . estimated that of total women s outerwea of all wear in the winter , unless com bi ned with wool 60 40 p , p r r As 1970 ty es e cent was knitted and pe cent w oven in of , polyester d ouble knits had captured 1970 1971 1972 1 ’ 5 and proporti ons were in ; in , only percent of the men s suit m arket and percent

45 percent was knitted compared to 55 percent of the trouser and j acket market . Goals of manm ade 3 5 woven . fiber produ cers within the next to years are to gain r 10 1 5 20 Textured p olyeste d ouble knit fabr ic is one maj or to percent of the suit market , percent of the ’ ’ 30 4 reas on for the relat ive imp ortance of knits in women s m arket for men s j ackets , and to 0 percent of the It outerwear . has better consumer characteristics important trouser market . than earlier knitg ood s used for these purposes . The problems of snagging and a ir p oros ity w ith 100 Originally textured p olyester d ouble kn its seemed to percent p olyester d ouble knits h ave caused makers to ur r r , ol ester w o ol be an unending sou ce of new fab ics unbound by t n t o blended p y / , acrylic , cotton , or

- price or traditional applicati ons . Consumer response rayon and so called combinati on y arns in which as 30 r t o comfort of the stret ch and convenience of the easy much as percent spun ya ns are emp loyed . care and shape retention gave further im petus t o its Polyester wool double knits seem to be p articu larly

’ -of l use . The early success textured p o yester d ouble suitable for men s outerwear . Other types of kn it R r r r , , , inser knits was bolste ed b y activiti es of fibe produce s goods such as aschel warp knits , and weft yarn suppliers , garment industry leaders , as well as tion fabrics are being tried , although c ost relation machinery makers who met the rap idly exp anding ships may not be favorable .

fl i . In dem and for more ex ble and im pr oved m achinery order to further thei r aims , an exclusive club

Fashi on is fickle and ever dynam ic . The use of of knitters under the sponsorship o f a leading textured polyester double knit passed its zenith i n European polyester producer has pooled its 1 70 n Western Europe in 9 . Wh ile there is still a large know ledge a d experi ence in both d ouble kn it and

’ v prop ortion of knit outerwear for women , n ot as much s ingle knit fabrics in order to p ro ide men s apparel

In of it is made of textured polyester dou ble kn it as makers with larger fabri c collecti ons . the U nited K formerly . ingdom , the basti on of conventional tailored

22 “ Double kni t fabrics for upholstery h ave been used clothing for men , an easy suit h as a ls o been intro

. 6 d uced by another leadi ng fiber producer Texture , in Europe for about years ; generally they h ave been

- n k , made of stretch nylon yarn . Single knits h ave been design and col or , i stead of a pseudo woven lo o are ’ emphasized in Western Europe for men s kn it outer popular as slip cover fabrics . The ability of kn it 2 w r . r ih 1 97 n fabrics t o stretch over irregularly shaped furniture ea Ea ly , a machi ery manufacturer in the U nited Ki ngdom introduced a 28- cut s ingle j ersey eliminates some problems ass oci ated with t he fit of “ - machine considered by them to be ideally suited to upholstery fabrics . Bot h close sheared and shaggy the production of single j ersey 'acqu ards for the types of deep pile knits offer additi onal s tyle d im en ' ’ . th men s outerwear market currently developing sions for e furniture m anufacturer .

- 1972 knit ood s By mid , it was apparent that g for men ’ s outerwear was not part icular ly s uccessful in

West Germany; and in France , knit fabr ics that were n u r em shown for this end use all had the a ppear ance of I d st ial it s woven fabrics . On the ot her hand , manm ade fiber 25 30 producers in the U nited Ki ngd om were continuing to Industrial uses constitute t o percent of the ’ m k push polyester blends of double j ersey for men s t otal fi ber ar et i n Western European countries , but knitted fabri cs hold a li mited p lace in industrial outerwear . - end uses . Cott on single j erseys are very important as a base s Hou sehold item s coating fabri c for use for aut om obile uphol tery , ceilings , and walls as well as for furniture and shoes . 10 It is estim ated that h ousehold items n ot includ ing U ntil about years ago , coat ers used woven base 20 10 floor coveri ngs constitute slight ly less than per fabrics , whi ch yi elded about percent stretch . Us ing 60 120 cent of the West European fi ber market . H ouseho ld cotton knits to percent stretch can be o btained . ‘ goods account for roughly o ne- third of t otal raw S ingle cott on j erseys are also used for packaging cotton consumption . N ot unexpected ly , t hen , man foods , such as ham . Cost relationships prohibit the ir i R made fi ber companies are doing a great d eal of use as back ng for wallpaper . ecent exper im ents research directed toward breaking into hous eho ld with knitted b ody p arts for medical app licat ions have c end uses with knits and other types of textile utilized non ellulosic fi bers exclusively . ' are products . ersey fabrics coated with polyvinylchloride , ol eurathane and At one poi nt , brushed warp knit nylon sheets held p y , and rubber , for each , cotton

15 percent of the sheet market in the U n ited forms the best b ase . Even though the tens ile strength

K . ingdom They were utilized in h otels , motels , and is s omewhat less than for woven coated fabr ics , the

- - homes because they were light weight , durable , e as y load distri buti on is better , s o desp ite change over a to care for , and comfortable; h owever , the p opularity costs , the co ting industry adopted knit base fabr ics . and f of these warp knit sheets has lessened , West Germ any has success ully tested knitted polyester / cott on woven s heets have gained greater fabric of specialized nyl on as a grass subs titute for K acceptance . nitted sheets have gained only 1 or 2 sports fields , but this developm ent is presently on a

a . percent of the sheet market on the Cont inent . tri l basis

OUTLOOK

kn n a . Will the dynamic growth of its i Wes tern textile mills , and app rel plants Es tim ating future Europe conti nue' M ust it be assum ed that the market shares must take into account the economi c m n sweeping success of anmade fibers i this growth advantages , quality and prices for comparable prod ' w r m k h as k ucts n ill fu ther erode cott on ar ets Or the nit tide , and , some thi k most important , fashi on and l - ' a ready reached high water mark W ill cotton be a ble consumer habits . to strengthen its competit ive pos it ion in kn its There is a well - pl aced body of opinion that ho lds through continued research and m arket prom otion t hat the knitwear expansion wi ll continue in Wes tern ' efforts Europe and that it will grow int o many fields , such as

’ The answers to these and other related q ues tions men s wear , where it is now relati vely u nimp ortant , r are of utmost im po t ance to fiber producers , both such expansi on bei ng fostered by the apparel natural and manmade , to machinery manufacturers , i ndustry as well as the knitting industry .

23 r i Forecasts of som e manm ade fibe companies knit mach nery producer , double knit fabrics for

’

f . In re lect this poi nt of view The n ew Textile Council o f women s wear in Europe is on the wane . the U n ited K K the U nited i ngdom has also suggested that the ingdom , a maj or knit machinery producer thought present trends will conti nue , and that there will be that the gener al slowd own in d ouble knits would get s It further loss by spun yarn woven fabri c and maj or worse . appears that the boom h as at least cooled . A

ri . r gai ns by knit fab cs Their forecast for the U nit ed ha d search for markets may have a lready begun . K n a 1975 nl 57 i gd om indi cates th t by o y percent of As incomes and purchas ing p ower increase , 70 will fabrics produced will be woven , compared with consumers be more concerned with fas hion and 1 1968 85 955 . percent in , and percent in ease of care rather than with wear ing q ualit ies and “ In K K its publicati on H os iery and nitwear i n the cost for large segments of the apparel mar ket . nits

’ 1970 s the , N ati onal Economi c Deve lopment Office are now no longer new , and will no longer sell jus t

( U nited Kingdom) forecasts t hat knitted garments because they are knits . While there is st ill much to be 1962 6 1 27 ~ which in were percent wool , percent man said for the comfort stret ch of knit garments and the 1 2 n 1 978 ' m ade fi bers and p erce t cotton would by be resultant ease with whi ch they are worn , new gar 20 77 percent wo ol , percent m anm ade fibers , and ment styles may demand more individuality . M 3 . s rero a only p ercent cotton oreover , stretch is n o longer the exclu ive p g If al K v this relati onship is v id for the U n ited ingdom , ti e of knits , as some success is being achieved with such relationships might als o be valid for other woven stretch apparel . The relative sameness of i ’ m r . Western European countries w th s i ila c lim ates polyester doubl e knit fabric , especially for women s ai Then too , since Brit n h as b ecome a mem ber of the clothing, may be a deterrent to its further expans ion ,

m m , n , Econo ic Co munity the i fluence of Britis h man desp ite effo rts of knitters to vary des igns fabr ic type , on l made fi ber producer fiber consump tion p atterns and colors . S ome re ief from the monotony may be in Western Europe may be a fact or in e x pand ing the attained through the use of spun y arns in comb ina use of m anmade fibers i n knit and woven textile tion with or instead of textured filam ent . Accord ing products . to one West German textile machinery manufacturer , According to the Int ernati onal Comm ittee for s ome trend away from manm ade fibers can be

R C IR FS F or ecast u ayon and Synthetic Fibers ( ) in , expected , as consumers again turn to n at ral fibers 1 980 o w . Progress in knitting in Eur pe is continuous Despite the problems ith wh ich cotton is r ex an and the range of uses ever wi dening . La ge p confronted in the knit arena , the future holds sion will continue mainly because of the promises of better things to come in apparel . opportunities afforded by the synthetic fibers wh ich Cott on knits may h old their strong pos ition in the s hould enable knitted fabrics to enter near ly all textile underwear market , although manm ade fiber interests v fields . ha e attempted to penetrate the u nderwear market

100- for On the other hand , the rapid trend t o k nits may with percent nylon j ersey br iefs men and already have been slowed , a nd the bo om may have blends of cott on and polyester . These have not

It . already reached a peak . is probable that any growth proved popular items in Western Europe from t his p oint forward wi ll be more d ifficu lt and There is m ore interest in cotton hose for men and

’ consequently more gradu al than in the immed iate boys than the supply on ret ailers shelves wou ld ’

It . past . appeared that a general shakedown was indicate Cott on hose is bett er for one s feet according taki ng place in knitwear apparel beginning in early t o medical ad visors because it abs orbs moisture and

1 72 . 9 . Double knit fabrics in p articular were com ing does n ot exert pressure on the foot as d o stretch h ose f under increasing compet it ion from other fabr ics , H osiery manu acturers are not meeting consumer

’ especially for women s wear . A trend away from kn its demand for cott on h ose except in sports socks and

' 2 - 7 . was n oted in France in 19 . high end luxury items They c ould probably do s o In its annu al report for 1 971- 72 a maj or Br itish with profit if a suitabl e met hod could be found to

r . manmade fi ber producer , als o very imp ortant in assure suppo t on the leg S ince cotton h ose wear out knitti ng, observed that the rapid rate o f increase in s ooner than nylon , more frequent repeat orders cou ld world demand for jersey fabrics in recent years was be expected . not sustai ned in the year u nder review and that there The preferred l aundry meth od on much of the 9 “ ' . was a massive price decli ne . Accord ing to a Sw iss Western European conti nent i s boili ng Whether c this is necessary is questi onable , but that it is subje t K n n n . 9 to change can ot be de i ed nits of ma m ade fibers ta s R t and nt 1 71- 72 s 9 . abast Cour uld epor Accou , Al er P and of blends of manm ade fibers cann ot be boiled . ass ns Ltd . L n n an d M a st n 275. Un t more So , o do id o e i ed

K n . i gdom Cotton scores on this p oi nt at present .

24 It is expected that more cotton w ill be used in has little pl ace in other household uses except

- double k nits , either as all cott on or cotton m anm ade dishcloths . ' r of tota l fiber blends , because the deluge of acqua d d oub le W hile the level of k nit penetration market ’ knit dresses and women ssu its made of polyester may stabilize at somewhat higher level than at w texturized filament yarn h as already su bs ided s ome present , it is likely that t he rate of gro th will be what ih Western Europe . Cotton cou ld make good s harply lower than that shown in the chart o n pro progress in double knit goods if manufacturing duction of standard woven goods a nd k nitted goods problems were overcome and pipeline t hinking , i n the EEC and EFTA . To some extent,the weaving i r f u e. . , promoti on of c ott on knit p oducts at all stages sector of textile manu acturing ind stry in Europe

m n m n r , . fro yar to fabric to gar e t to etai l were further was shaken by the knit ex plosion H owever , i t is 11C developed . Thi s approach is being used by . If expected that weaving will rem ain the most m anufacturers and consumers were convinced of the im portant method of fabric production for m any desirability of cott on d ouble knits , dress es , suits , and decades to come and some sp okesmen expect that it “ ' other cotton knit outerwear products , they wou ld be m ay even be gi ven a fresh u psurge . One needs only

' m ad e a nd the sold , d espite the p resent prob lems and the t o keep in mi nd rel ati onships shown in the second relative pri ces . There must a ls o be a d ispos it ion o n chart to understand the importance of weaving in the

ar . the p t of k nitters to expand their us e of cotton It t otal scheme of textile product ion . “

a . : has been determined th t s ome knitters engaged in Accordi ng to W . P S chneider By making use of — processing compet ing fi bers simply do not care t o the p ossi bilities of the weaving mill often measured if m — process cotton, even they h ave the technical ab ility far too pessi istically the challenge from kn it ' 10 . of to do s o goods is q uite capable being met . Schneider There are undeveloped p oss ibilit ies i n warp kn its points out that the us e of up- to - d ate weaving for cotton . Accordi ng to one authority , warp kn itting m achinery , modernizat ion , quality contro ls , al has enorm ous potenti for production of stab le versatility , and better finishing, all of which are

. s a cotton fabrics with controlled el asticity I n thi are presently p ossi ble , enable more c pability for wovens als o included cert ain stitch b onded techniques b ased to compete with other types of textile products . ’ on warp knitting which h ave not been fully exploited . While improvement of cott on s pos it ion i n kn it r i Growt h in single knits for bus iness shi ts and goods may continue to be l ess than des red , the

’ women s bl ouses and dresses will rest on the us e ofa ll relative share of cotton in the total market could be ’ l er tt n o est co o , w r cotton yarns , p y / blended y arns and improved by expected advances in omen s appa el acrylic/ cotton yarns , alt h ough polyester / high wet and h ousehold u ses , and further by the d evelopment r i modulus rayon b lend yarns will als o be used . The use of wa p kn tting equipment that cou ld hand le spun of al , n n n n . spun yarns , especi ly blends which incorporate yar s o a eco omic basis The advance in use of the strength and elongation of manm ade fibers and stretch w ovens is an example of im aginat ive us e of

f and - the com ort abs orptiveness of cotton , are weaving equipment to attain an end use quality expected to be of increasing im p ortance . demanded by consumers . e as m s In the industri al field , cotton is strongly entrenched Wheth r the forec ts of unrestrained opti i m as a base fabric for vi nyl coated fabrics for furniture that are bei ng made by manmade fi ber manufacturers and aut omoti ve use and for artificial leather for will come to pass dep ends in large measure on the t apparel and can be expected to h old this mar ket . In dedication and commitmen of resources with wh ich Western Europe it is also used for nets for food cotton i nterests take up the challenge to meet the

packaging . increased preferences of consum ers for n atural fibers .

In the household field , cotton is challenged by the K nylon knit sheets mainly in U nited ingdom ,

“ l0 The s n av n in an nt ra n although in combi nati on with polyester , cotton in Po itio of We i g I eg ted Textile I dustry ' ' n M a n M an a t 1972 fro the ie poi t of the chi e uf c urer, y W . P . woven fabrics may regai n p art of the market . In , m w b n a the M a in v s n Sch eider, He d of Textile ch ery Di i io , Sulzer tt n a 90 t t a k co o held bout percen of he sheet m r et in in v B s Ltd . n t a n a n at a nn a rother , , Wi ter hur, Switzerl d , p pergi e u l t n the N an M a 1 70 K 9 . other Western European countries . nitted c otton mee i g of orwegi Textile Society, y

‘ 25 s 5 GO' E R NM T m c OF F IC E 1 9 73 511 - 983 (P AS - 1 6 u. . ENp m m o 4 )

wa rr NT o r A-G a ic urua-s en s ta r es D E P A R T M E U

‘ 20 2 5 0 A I ND . C . W S H NG TO . ‘NF - em 0 fio sr a e e A f) E E S M NT r u .s . DEPA RT E o g e m-co u rting O F F I C I A L ausm ess Q N F R P R I ' A T E U S E Q A LT Y O .