#317 29 September - 5 October 2006 20 pages Rs 30

LEAVING A LEGACY: From right, Chandra Gurung, country HAPPY representative WWF-Nepal; Jill Bowling Schlaepfer, director of DASAIN programs, WWF-UK; Mingma Norbu Sherpa, conservation director, Asia Pacific Program, WWF-US; Narayan Paudel, director-general, Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation; Damodar Parajuli, Nepali Times will take a break acting secretary, State Ministry for next week and return on Forests and Soil Conservation; 13 October. Gopal Rai, state minister, Forests and Soil Conservation; Pauli Mustonen, Charge díAffaires of Finland in Kathmandu.

The handover was carried out by the State Minister for Forests and Soil Conservation Gopal Rai at a ceremony in Taplejung on 22 September. The visiting COURTESY: WWF-NEPAL dignitaries then flew out to Ghunsa to inspect a local group implementing the management, The chopper and the helicopter crashed into a crash left a mountain at 4,000 m just after vacuum in Editorial p2 Nepal’s Still among us Tributep10-12 VOID biosphere Remembering friends and colleagues KUNDA DIXIT leadership,” says Lhakpa Norbu “We are ready to take on this Sherpa, who worked closely responsibility thanks to takeoff on the flight back. he Ghunsa helicopter crash with many in the crash over for support from organisations like Minister Rai, Chandra Gurung, last week that killed 24 25 years in Nepali conservation. WWF.” Mingma Sherpa and Dawa people wasn’t just a tragic It is a bitter irony that just Chandra Gurung of WWF- T Tshering were among those in loss of life, it devastated Nepal’s the previous day, they had all Nepal, himself a pioneer of the ill-fated helicopter. nature conservation movement, witnessed another landmark in grassroots conservation in the The nation also mourns setting it back by decades. Nepal’s nature conservation Annapurnas, had said he was veteran geographer Harka Gurung, Many names on the passenger history: the handing over proud to be part of the effort. senior donor representatives, manifest were builders of Nepal’s management of the “This handover will be a WWF staffers, several noted model achievements in Kangchenjunga Conservation positive example for the world government officials environment protection over the Area (KCA) to a local council. of people managing their and two journalists. z past decade. Their deaths have left The initiative built on the main natural resources, and enable a void that will take a long time to lesson of Nepal’s conservation learning on how to make fill. They proved that nature is success, that the environment conservation more equitable best protected through grassroots can be protected best when local and sustainable,” he said. Weekly Internet Poll # 317 ecotourism activities, and their people are involved. The Kangchenjunga area is a Q. Does US Ambassador Moriarty’s projects are being replicated in In Kangchenjunga, treasure-house of biodiversity tough stand against the Maoists help or hurt the SPA’s efforts? Nepal and across the world. conservation will now be with higher rainfall and cloud “These people represented the managed by a council forests, and WWF has invested Total votes: 3,714 diversity of expertise, representing dozens of village $1.5 million in conservation backgrounds, and ethnicities that committees and mothers’ efforts here since 1998. Local contributed to Nepal’s groups. The project is management means less conservation successes over the implemented by the Department pressure on forests and less last 30 years. They proved that for of National Parks and Wildlife poaching of wildlife. conservation to work you need Conservation with support from “WWF is greatly encouraged Weekly Internet Poll # 318. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com Q. Do you think the arms management strong local participation. and WWF and other donors. by successes like this,” said formula will work? they would have made even more “This is a great day for the Mingma Norbu Sherpa of WWF- contributions. Their deaths leave a people of Kangchenjunga,” Dawa US. “I'd like to congratulate the void that will take a long time to Tshering Sherpa, chairman of government and the people for fill, particularly in terms of the management council had working through a decade of janajati participation and said on Friday in Taplejung, conflict to reach this pinnacle.” 2 EDITORIAL 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317

Published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd, Chief Editor: Kunda Dixit Editor: Sophia Tamot Executive Editor: Anagha Neelakantan Design: Kiran Maharjan Web: Rupendra Kayastha Desk: Jemima Sherpa Vicepresident Corporate Affairs: Sneh Sayami Director, Sales and Marketing: Sunaina Shah [email protected] Subscription: [email protected] Hatiban, Godavari Road, Lalitpur [email protected], GPO Box 7251, Kathmandu 5543333-6, Fax: 5521013 Wing and prayer www.nepalitimes.com Printed at Jagadamba Press, Hatiban: 5547018 Last week’s crash shows, yet again, that STILL AMONG US aviation rules in Nepal need an overhaul There are times these past years when we have despaired. As SOMA SEN a helicopter to a mountain is more crisis upon crisis has been heaped upon this hapless nation we dangerous than climbing it,” said have wondered aloud if we have been abandoned even by the t may still be too early to one mountaineer in a blog post. divine benefactor. draw definite conclusions on There have been four chopper A country already cursed with inequality, injustice and poverty I the crash of a Shree Airlines crashes at Everest Base Camp alone was saddled with a conflict that made it all much worse. Brutality MI-17 near Ghunsa last week with and two more have crashed en that we had only heard about in the epic wars of our scriptures the tragic loss of lives. route in the past five years. became the order of the day. Violence begat more violence and But given reports of heavy Over-confidence can also be a often seemed to be an end in itself. It was hard to believe that rains and rough terrain there are reason when pilots rely too much ordinary family men with children of their own could be capable of such inhumanity. reasons to suspect CFIT—that on the Global Positioning System, Nepalis who were ignored for so long by the state suddenly familiar and ominous acronym which draws a straight line to the were at the receiving end of its security agencies. Then our rulers that has made Nepal the country destination without taking terrain massacred each other in a slaughter of mythic proportions. The with one of the worst air safety into account during white-outs. brother king took over and ruled with an iron fist. And even when records in the world. There is a tendency not to democracy was restored and a ceasefire put into place, there is Controlled Flight into Terrain circulate inquiry reports from past little to celebrate as terror still stalks the land. is the technical terminology for an accidents and therefore failure to We thought we had seen it all, until Saturdayís helicopter crash aircraft flying into a mountain in learn from mistakes. ERIK PONTOPPIDAN/ WWW.BEREJST.DK that wiped out nearly all the countryís top conservationists and bad weather. Of the 15 fatal crashes Terrain warning systems are many of our well-wishers. One of the few things this country can be in Nepal since 1992 with the loss not mandatory in Nepal, and even cloud-covered mountainside is proud of in the last 30 years was the calibre and experience of our of 320 lives, 12 were CFIT. when they are installed in the now academic. The inquiry environmental and biodiversity experts. People like Harka Gurung, the authority on Nepalís human geography, Chandra Gurung who To be sure, flying in the cockpit, the audio warnings tend commission must not just masterminded the unique model of ecotourism-based conservation Himalaya is difficult even in the to be ignored because pilots are answer what happened, it must in the Annapurnas, Tirtha Man Maskey who ensured that best weather conditions: with always flying close to mountains. also have recommendations on Nepalís national parks were sustainably preserved for future tricky, ill-equipped airports, lack There is Enhanced Ground how to prevent similar accidents generations, or Mingma Sherpa whose conservation expertise from of navigational beacons, and Proximity Warning (EGPW) in future. Nepal was sought after worldwide. turbulence. When you mix clouds equipment available, which Can we have new Instrument In a country where there is so little to celebrate, it is a cruel with mountains, the situation integrates a satellite-based 3D Flying Rule (IFR) thresholds for blow to take away the little that stood out. The people who boarded becomes exponentially more risky. topographic image of the route and safe flying in high mountain the helicopter in Ghunsa on Saturday morning were all enormously “Flying in Nepal in the monsoon, warns pilots of mountains ahead areas? Should we leave private talented, experienced, and dedicated. We owe it to them to continue there is one thing we always tell even when obscured by cloud. But and charter flying in remote areas their work, to innovate and prove by doing that nature conservation junior pilots: avoid clouds, they these can cost upto $100,000. in bad weather just to pilot and economic progress can go hand in hand. † This cheerless festival season, let us honour the memory of have rocks in them,” says one Even if EGPW one day became discretion? We must also have those who perished by re-dedicating ourselves to our professions. trainer pilot with Nepal Airlines. mandatory on aircraft flying better navaids in remote area Even if we are not environmentalists let us pledge to do whatever Even experienced pilots find within Nepal, the Civil Aviation airports. If a crash does happen, we do with utmost commitment and integrity. † flying in the Himalaya a challenge. Authority has to ask what do we aircraft must have satellite For every Mingma Sherpa let us nurture a hundred grassroots The army pilot who set a world do till then. If the weather was as tracking devices so we don’t see a conservationists. For every Tirtha Man Maskey let us have a record by landing his EADS bad as the met office said it was repeat of an aircraft disappearing hundred civil servants who make a difference. For every Chandra Ecureuil on the Western Cwm on a last Saturday, the MI-17 had no without trace for four days. The Gurung let us cultivate a hundred self-made, hard-working Nepalis. mountaineering rescue in 1996 business being in Ghunsa. This is fact that an Asian Airlines MI-17 Our friends have not gone. They are among us every time we crashed his B2, a chopper a narrow valley and the helipad that disappeared on a flight from hear the wind rustle in the trees above Chandra Gurungís home modified for high altitude itself at 4,300m. At the time of Makalu Base Camp to Lukla village of Sikles, or when we catch a glimpse of Himalchuli from performance, at Everest Base Camp. takeoff, it was surrounded by carrying porters from a French Harka Gurungís district of Lamjung, or when we smell the fresh forests of Mingma Sherpaís Khumbu. In May this year, an MI-8 trying to swirling mist. Makalu Expedition in June 2002 take off from Dhaulagiri Base Whether the chopper went has still not been found shows Camp with eight climbers on down because of loss of control us that flying in Nepal needs board had to make a hard landing. due to turbulence caused by up- much more stringent rules than All escaped miraculously. “Taking valley catabatic winds or hit a those in other countries. z Victims of circumstance MP Krishna Charan Shrestha and Harka Gurung, connected in life, died the same day

his Dasain began inauspiciously. Though not a conservationist in the political structure to back them up, stake in its implementation. He didnít First came the shocking news of the academic sense of the term, Harka Gurung development regions were castles in the mention ëdemocracyí as often as many of T murder of Krishna Charan Shrestha, too died for a cause close to his heart. As a air, hung by a thin thread from the capital. his former colleagues from Panchayat days lawmaker from Siraha. Krishna Charan development thinker, Gurung had an When Harka realised why his ideas did, or display any of the zeal of a neo- was a popular figure in his constituency, abiding interest in establishing mutually werenít working, he moved on and convert. His tone and tenor for the last two of his followers gave up their own lives beneficial relationships between human proposed his second most significant several years had become decidedly trying to defend him and then pursuing his beings and their habitat. He died returning contribution to planning: the concept of egalitarian. killers. He belonged to a generation of from a ceremony handing nature protection parallel south-north growth corridors to Krishna Charan shouldnít have been in politicians who interact directly with the to the people of that area. connect railheads in neighbouring India the kind of politics promoted and patronised people over the head of influential On first meeting Harka, many found him with processing and production centres of by Shah kings. Perhaps he fell victim to the powerbrokers. blunt. He never attempted to even appear the Nepal tarai and Bhitri Madhesh. legacy of enmity nurtured by state-centric The second news was even more likable. Like most interdisciplinary scholars Harka was dragged into controversy by Panchayat-era politics. unsettling. A helicopter with eminent he had strong views about everything. He the politics of demography. In the 1980s, he Harka Gurung knew too much to be relished making fun of those less informed headed a commission asked to prepare a hopping around the Himalayas in a STATE OF THE STATE but more dogmatic than he was. Irreverence purist population plan for the tarai. The chartered helicopter in bad weather. and wit were his natural traits. Despite his report was as expected, and is supposed to Perhaps he found the end he C K Lal lack of social skills he was a towering have inspired the formation of the subconsciously cherished. presence in the field of physical planning. Sadbhawana Manch, which later became Jaya Krishna Goit is too sharp not to conservationists on board was reported You could agree or disagree with him on the Sadbhawana Party. Jaya Krishna Goit, know the consequences of his actions. Will missing in the Kanchenjunga region. Two various issues, but in the area of regional the leader of splinter group of Maoists he survive long enough to realise that days later, the worst fears of worried planning, it was impossible to hold which claims to have killed Krishna Charan politics of vendetta is a blind alley? families and friends turned out to be true: any view without referring to his ideas. Shrestha, is in some ways the political Rumour is rife that ësomething will the helicopter had crashed with no He is credited with creating initially progeny of backlash created by the report. happení during Dasain. For far too long, survivors. Professionals in the field say it four, then five, development regions in the Post-1990 Harka Gurung perhaps Nepalis have seen their worst fears coming will take about three decades to produce so country. King Birendraís personal interest realised that planning for development true. May it be different this time despite the many conservationists of that calibre again. didnít work for one simple reason: without a means little if the planned-for donít have a sad start to the festival. z 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 3

LLL ETTERS

UNEQUAL CITIZENS disparity when you know that the project houses as dangerously regressive and including the Maoists. Once we take the CK Lal dismisses the 15 chapters that leaderís salary made up 15 percent of the unworthy of a civllised society? guns out of the ballot boxes, all other comprise Unequal Citizensówhich took £7,00000 project budget. Convert into Lalís grudging admission that rampant problems will be easy to solve. four years of research and rupees and multiply by four (years it took extortion perpetrated by the Maoists exists Bimal Bastola, New York consultations to compileóin eight to publish the book). Talk about (I paid money for this flash of insight?) paltry sentences. The work is a inequality. downplays the unprecedented scale of the REAL NEWS summary that analyses the outcomes of Based on the findings of this problem. His outrageous assertion that Your weekly poll showed that more than exclusion and discrimination within ridiculously expensive work, DFID has many victims quietly pay to cover their 57 percent of voters believe the ceasefire Nepal with hard data, starkly revealing developed an action plan to be led by the previous ëmisdemeanoursí (as opposed to will not last beyond Tihar (#315). I the extent of inequality. Such data is same foreigner donors think has avoid being murdered) is deeply insulting believe the number is higher, as there are essential to begin negotiating a more influence at the Planning Commission to the many thousands of decent citizens still people who are undecided. This is equitable and inclusive society. The and ministries. Around 20 percent of the because, we see that ceasefire norms study was designed to amplify the total projected money will make up this facing such threats. To top off this apologist nonsense he are generally being violated. Extortion, voices of citizens from excluded groups personís salary. intimidation, and even recruiting and who lack the social and political This is not to criticise Nepal-based states that ëuprightí entrepreneurs have recourse to some mythical ëcomplaints training of militia is going on more influence to attract the attention of bideshi consultants, but it is disgusting to intensively than earlier, and the general departmentí to curb those unfortunate little decision-makers and development see money meant to reduce the poverty public is under intense psychological workers. of Nepalis spent like this. Unequal ëexcessesí (boys will be boys). Iím sure pressure. Nepalis have little choice but Lal reveals his disdain for and lack citizens? Right on. many of your readers would appreciate to believe that we are under a Maoist of understanding of the entire Siddhartha, email publication of this magical hotline number government or anarchy. And we greatly development dialogue by presenting a where the extortionist-in-chief gives one a appreciate a newspaper which tries hard pseudo-history that reduces five sympathetic hearing. to provide a real picture to help decades of development to a string of As a foreigner and long-time resident I safeguard democratic values, despite buzzwords. Particularly offensive are have appreciated the insights your journal facing threats. the slighting comments he makes about has provided over the years to reduce my Prakash Pangeni, email our colleagues, who carried out the bulk ëconfusioní concerning Nepali ërealities.í of research and writing. But if I want misleading justifications Thanks for publishing Nepali Times The writers, academics and of criminal activity and apologist online. Itís the best way to explain and activists who contributed to the study propaganda Iíll simply ask the CPN help the common man understand rank among the finest of Nepalis (Malignant) cadres. They are more than problems, by disseminating true news. seriously engaged in creating a more willing to give you an earful of their Your editorial section is also very good. inclusive nation. To malign them by bankrupt ideology as they threaten and Dhaniram S, email writing that ìthe project was probably extort. conceived to keep possible activists In a land ruled by fear I would never BHATMARA BHAI occupied while the king Ö (governed),î Much has been made about the is both snide, and false. dare put my real name to this missive. † Erst While, email ëdisappearanceí of Under my Hat. I find Judith R Stahl Amtzis and Isabella Backside mere gossip, and have not got C Bassignana Khadka,Gender SPACE FOR ALL used to it yet.†One columnist whose wit I and Social Exclusion Assessment of really miss is your (ex-) connoisseur Nepal team It was interesting to read last weekís poll report (ëWhat we thinkí, #317). In the back Bhatmara Bhai, who successfully guided MAINA of my mind were the prime ministerís us to make the right choice with regard to The inclusion preached in Unequal In Letters (#316) Sam Cowanís long letter our culinary destinations. Even the Citizens (ëDevelopment Laboratoryí, remarks about giving space to the on Maina was touching, thought- monarchy, and its relevance. The Maobadis have come above-ground, but Review by CK Lal, #314) is a donor provoking, and disturbing. It is indeed a thereís no sign of Bhatmara Bhai! Find buzzword,†but quite different in practice. institution of the monarchy is at its lowest pity people have to face such ordeals popularity and vigour, which is what led to him soon!† Distinguished Madhesi scholars work from both the service personnel and the Shyamalal Shrestha, email on gender and ethnicity issues, but these unprecedented changes. Yet, the rebels. But right now, with the ceasefire fact that almost 50 percent of people want none are on the studyís advisory and the talks, I feel it is not the committee or research team. to keep it, is a phenomenon in itself. The CORRECTION appropriate moment to remind ourselves prime ministerís comments werenít for In the study, data analysis, facts and of the outrages committed by both sides. Due to an editing error, the OHCHR figures concerning Madhesis are nothing.† No individual leader has high report in ëViolationsî (#316) was This is a time for reconciliation and enough approval ratings to guide and inaccurate. How can all Madhesi, forgiveness. Every Nepali here and wrongly referred to in the first line as whether Brahmin, or middle castes shoulder this nation to lasting peace. This a UNHCR report. settled abroad should now work to find a means that reconciliation and consensus such as Rajput, Baniya, Madwari, solution so that horrendous incidents like In Happenings (#316), the venue of Bengali, and Nurang be put in the is the only way out of this political the Surya Classic Encounters event Mainaís are not repeated. May her soul stalemate. It requires mutual Brahmin-Chhettri (BC) category? rest in peace. All Nepalis sympathise was wrongly identified. The concert Donors, INGOs, and NGOs exclude acknowledgement and respect between all pictured took place at Olive Bar and with her family and beg their forgiveness. the existing powers, the king, political Madhesis in the recruitment and Dr Amrit KC, Bishalnagar Bistro at Radisson Hotel. decision-making processes, and in parties, and Maoists. After all, democracy is all about accommodation and tolerating consultations to determine what RED CK BLUES they†need.†What percentage of the total dissent and contradiction. LETTERS CK Lalís latest column ( ëLetís get this PB Rana, email staff of the World Bank or DFID are thing unstuckí, State of the State, #316) Nepali Times welcomes feedback. Letters Madhesi? Inclusion isnít about exhibited a xenophobia that seems to be should be brief and may be edited for space. organising seminars, but involving the GUNS AND VOTES While pseudonyms can be accepted, writers excluded. Make your own organisations the latest fashion among the chattering People like me are beginning to feel that who provide their real names and contact inclusive. classes. His tired complaint that politicians only indulge in unnecessary details will be given preference. Email letters Baldeo Lal Shah, Sarlahi foreigners are ëfear-mongeringí and do ordinances and laws. What Nepalis are should be in text format without attachments † not have a good ërecord of reading Nepali focused on now is when, how, and whether with ëletter to the editorí in the subject line. Unequal Citizens is right on track, realitiesí begs the question: how adept at the Maoists ever give up violence. reading the tea leaves does one have to Email: [email protected] and the inequality is evident from the Parliamentarians, cabinet members, and Fax: 977-1-5521013 selection of its key consultantsó be to recognise the current tsunami of civil society should focus solely on that. Mail: Letters, Nepali Times, Bahun, Chhetri or Newar, with one coercion, death threats, extortion and The government must take a tough stand GPO Box 7251, Kathmandu, Nepal. Tamang woman. It further reeks of forced billetting of comrades in peopleís against all perpetrators of violence, 4 NATION 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 Uneven delivery All women are not equal for Nepal’s abortion program

MARTY LOGAN pregnancy resulted from rape or incest and any time, with a early 60,000 Nepali doctor’s consent, if the women’s Jailed women have had legal health is in danger or the foetus is When Shruti learned she was Nabortions since March severely deformed. pregnant she decided that she did 2004. But despite the impressive That ignorance of the law’s not want to have the baby. The married woman went to the numbers, there are still huge particulars is not surprising, since obstacles to guarantee women’s hospital in Dhankuta, where she the study also found that only 50 discovered she didnít have enough MARTY LOGAN right to safe abortion. percent of women seeking what is money for the procedure (which For example, over 10 percent known as comprehensive abortion averages just over Rs 1,000 in of women who sought abortions care (CAC) were aware that it is government hospitals). She returned home. at 22 facilities in the country legal. Of those, less than half knew from January to March 2006 were Months later the child was that it was permitted on request ëstillborní, Shruti (not her real rejected because they were more during the first 12 weeks of name) told police after they were Federation than 12 weeks pregnant, alerted about the dead baby. She pregnancy. according to a recent study by the Four years before abortion was repeated that story again at the Ethnic politics cuts both ways district court, which found her Centre for Research on legalised, a Ministry of Health Environment, Health and guilty of homicide but sentenced hink what you will, but the debate today over creating a new study estimated that 54 percent of her to just five years; the Population Activities. state structure in Nepal is a direct result of the Maoist maternal deaths were caused by maximum is 20 years. uprising. A central question is what a future Nepal should Anand Tamang of CREHPA, unsafe abortion. An appellate court upheld the T shorter sentence but Forum for look like: should it be a federation of different states, or continue to which produced the National “I think (unsafe abortions) Women, Law and Development is function as a centralised nation. Facility-based Abortion Baseline have been reduced. But still they Study says so many women are appealing it to the Supreme Court, No prizes for guessing what the Maoists want. Two years ago, come,” says Dr Sudha Thapa, arguing that the abortion fee they introduced the concept of ethnic autonomous regions, a turned away because they deputy director at Maternity deprived Shruti of her right to precursor to a federal government. They have so far ëcreatedí nine calculate their date of conception Hospital, the country’s only abortion. ethnic autonomous regions with ethnic autonomous ëgovernmentsí. differently than the law does. training centre for doctors—and in There are other obstacles, Today, they are pushing hard to institutionalise this structure in the FWLDís Lokhari Bashyal told us. Abortion is permissible up to a current pilot project, nurses— yet-to-be announced interim constitution. 12 weeks, until 18 weeks if the ìSometimes women pass the legal The UML agrees with a federation, though their concept of it is who must be certified before they deadline for an abortion (12 blurry. The NC leadership is pretty much against a federal state can perform the procedure. weeks) for lack of knowledge. divided along ethnic lines. They Another CREHPA study found Even if there is an authorised are for ëtrue decentralisation of that of 1,560 cases treated at hospital or clinic, sometimes the doctor is not there.î MEANWHILE powerí. Just how they plan to Maternity Hospital from April Suman Pradhan achieve it, we donít know. The 2004-2005, 138 were for Nepal Sadbhawana Party complications caused by induced safe abortion and what is safe supports a strong federal abortion. abortion,” says Wendy Darby of structure, but its advocacy is limited to creating a unified and “A big challenge is educating Ipas, a US-based NGO that has autonomous Madhes region. women (and men) of their rights to given considerable financial and Irrespective of the merits or demerits of the federation concept, technical support to Nepal’s what strikes me is the Maoist proposal. They have carefully carved Safe Abortion Program. up ethnic autonomous states for all the major ethnic groups in this Poor country. Or so it seems, until you look at the 2001 census. The census shows that the largest group in this country is still information the Bahun-Chhettri castes, which comprise 28.5 percent of the dissemination, population. Yet, there is no autonomous state earmarked for them. high cost, and Nearly one-third of the nationís population has been deliberately lack of staffed given short shrift as the Maoists intensely woo the other two-thirds. service centres Could this oversight someday lead to a counter-revolution? have been I posed this question recently to ëComrade Biswoí, a Bahun directly himself and senior military commissar of the Maoistís Bethan responsible for Smriti Brigade. He replied, ìA large section of the population may the jailing of more feel a little alienated at first, but we donít think that will be a big than a dozen women problem.î since the abortion law was Biswo continued: ìThe Bahun-Chhettris are spread out in all parts of the country. They will of course have a share in local changed (see box, Jailed). autonomy according to their numbers, because we plan to devolve In urban areas, power right to the lowest levels. An ethnic autonomous region does government, private and NGO not mean only a particular ethnic group will control the local facilities all offer CAC while government. All ethnicities that live in that region will have a say.î government centres predominate In other words, Biswo is saying that an ethnic state will be in rural Nepal. And although ethnic in name only. Everyone in it will have proportional the government has twice as representation. The Bahun-Chhettris too will have a say in power many certified facilities, the according to their numbers. others have performed more This is reasonable, until you consider the regional distribution than three times as many of all communities, and the nitty-gritty of identity politics. abortions. Only in a few regions does any ethnic community completely outnumber the rest. And even that is by a thin margin which canít Sixty-eight of Nepal’s 75 last forever. The Tharus of the Maoistsí Tharuwan Autonomous districts now have at least one Region are already outnumbered by the hill tribes, for example. trained service provider, but “23 The other important question is identity. Almost everyone of them are not yet providing agrees that Nepalís conflict intensified only after the Maoists services, for a variety of

tactically co-opted the identity question lurking in everyoneís MOHAN MAINALI reasons,” Darby told us via minds. email. If identity is so important for Nepalis, how can you give identity Laxmi Raj Pathak helped to some and exclude others? Wonít that be sowing the seeds of push the abortion bill through another, perhaps more violent, conflict in the coming years? Hospital overburdened Nepalís first legal abortion was performed in Maternity Hospital in March 2004, parliament when he was Granted the Bahun-Chhettris have been the classical director of the Health Ministry’s oppressors/exploiters here. But so have the Newar upper castes, and nearly 300 doctors and over 200 nurse assistants have been trained to the elites of the Magar, Madhesi, Tharu, and other communities. Yet deliver comprehensive abortion care. But the hospitalís CAC unit still struggles Family Health Division. He to meet demand. ìSome days 25-30 women come. Some are rejected, some we the Maoists plan to give all of themóexcept Bahun-Chhetrisóan blames slow decision-making do abortions foróabout 15 a dayóand some we ask to come a few days later,î for inadequate abortion services ethnic autonomous region of their own. says CAC Coordinator Dr Sudha Thapa, sitting in the unitís cramped training ìWe are going to suffer a backlash for a couple of generations,î room. in rural areas, the result of poor says a Bahun friend of mine resignedly. ìThen what? Wonít there The doctors trained at the unit leave, and there is usually just one doctor on management. “People are be a demand that we too want an autonomous state?î duty. Nurse training is meant to meet some of the demand, and other training committed but no one wants to Identity politics has served the Maoists well thus far. centres are soon to open in Butwal and Pokhara. take risks,” he told us. “If you But theyíre playing with fire. And I, for one, canít see the fire Lack of knowledge remains the biggest obstacle to women getting safe want to serve rural people you engines. z abortions, according to Thapa. ìEven doctors who come to work here donít know about the law, so how can the public know?î have to deviate from the guidelines sometimes.”z NATION 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 5 Justice for all In the countryside, ‘peoples’ courts’ are often the best resort

NARESH NEWAR in BARDIYA

nil Chettri, Chief Justice ‘people’s court’ in Kohalpur listens intently to two villagers argue their cases on a land dispute. A Fifteen other people crammed into the small, hot room watch as Chettri sets a one-week deadline for a verdict. “I promise you the decision will not be delayed as in other courts,” he says, a snide reference to state courts that take months, even years to decide on complicated land disputes. The people’s court is in considerable demand here, because of their speed, largely because it is seen to set a lower burden of proof. Cases thrown out of districts courts, or lost due to inadequate evidence are all brought to the Maoist courts. Plaintiffs, often poor, take legal battles over property, domestic violence, rape, sexual abuse, bigamy, and other social problems to people’s courts. But equally, people use the Maoist legal option to threaten and intimidate fellow villagers. Verdict on all cases is passed by a single person who does not have a law education or formal legal training, and is often politically motivated. Maoist judges also prefer to try cases related to sympathisers, not unaffiliated civilians. Chettri, who dropped out of college to join the Maoist movement, disagrees with all of the above. “We provide justice without bias, and our judges are qualified enough due to their 10-year-long involvement in the ‘People’s War’,” he says. In response to pressure from lawyers and political parties not to interfere in the country’s independent and impartial judiciary system, Prachanda recently ordered his cadres to close down the people’s courts in the core city areas. As with many Maoist activities, that will be difficult, since the people’s courts are already a fully functional alternative justice system in many rural and some urban areas in this part of the country.

BHOJRAJ BHAT Internally JUDGE, JURY, HANGMAN: Unqualified displaced people ,who ëpeopleís courtsí judges try cases of might want to take everything, from homicide to ëcultural crimesí. advantage of the ceasefire and peace process to return home, will be tried at these courts. But they’ll be tried even if they don’t return. “We cannot stop local people from asking us to try cases, so even absent people will be tried and sentenced according to our laws,’ says Sunil of the Bardiya Jana Sarkar. Governing for guns Out in the far-west, since the peace process started the Maoists have taken over the administration and projects of local government bodies. We were told that most of the ëgovernmentís activities are aimed at generating revenue to support the PLAí. Local Maoist offices in rural and core town areas, not DDCs, control everythingóbusiness licenses, revenue collection, customs and taxation, development work, transportation, building contracts, river leasing, and much more. ìFrom 25km west of the district headquarters, we control all areas and this is why we, and not the seven-party government, have the right to govern,î says Suman, a senior official Maoist ëpeopleís governmentí leader in Guleriya. The development and administration budgets for Bardiya and Banke together are over Rs 21 million annually, and we were told that most of the money will be diverted to strengthen the PLA and its soldiers. The Maoists also control the Rs 1 million local development budgets. They collect custom duties from all but one of the seven Nepal-India border posts in the district, give out bridge and road building contracts, regulate river transport, and collect taxes from vegetable and livestock markets, and forest users. The message from the local Maoists is clear. ìWe wonít make the same mistake as the Nepali Congress, which led an armed rebellion against King Mahendra and disarmed even before the peace process was completed,î says Purna Subedi, head in Nepalganj of the Banke Jana Sarkar. ìThat would be a huge mistake.î Naresh Newar 6 NATION 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 Handicraft, a small tourist souvenir shop in Thamel say, “We are not able to even raise enough for rent sometimes but now that there is peace, perhaps there will be more tourists.” Pasang Dawa Sherpa, Managing Director of the Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer is also optimistic and says, Uphill slog “Things have not changed dramatically so far but there are signs that the situation could improve.” And there is a lot to look forward to, keeping fingers crossed of course. Several mountaineering expeditions have already left to climb various peaks, most popular among them being Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu, the latter being the easiest among above 8000m peaks and considered a preparatory peak for those aiming to climb Mt. Everest. It seems everyone has recognised that giving a boost to the tourism industry will set the economic wheel in motion at least until things are resolved for good. Among the various promotional events meant to boost tourism here, Nepal has christened one mountain in the Langtang area in honour of the founder of the Scout movement , Lord Baden Powell, to mark 100 years of scouting in 2007. The peak, 5,890m tall, will be called Baden Powell Scout Peak. A 14-member group of scouts from ALOK TUMBAHANGPHEY South Asia returned from a trek to the peak on Sunday. Two members of the team ALOK TUMBAHANGPHEY also made it to the summit. “This year’s Inquiries have trip was only to plan the route and look at the area as no one had been there before. he monsoon has finally receded and increased, but Next year when we start the centenary despite last week’s irreplaceable celebrations we hope to bring Scouts from T losses to the nation there is this tourism all over the world,” says team leader optimism in the air. Like everyone else, Keshav Bohora, who is also an instructor most in the tourism industry are also in season may still at the Kakani International Scout Training the wait and watch mode given our history Centre. of political uncertainty. not be good Shree Ram Lamichane, head of Nepal Ideally, the post monsoon autumn Scouts says several dozen countries have season should be a busy one for the enough already been contacted and have expressed tourism industry in Nepal. The three KESHAV BOHORA interest in coming here to climb the month-long gap before winter sets and government recently announced a the decision in the 28th annual general mountain next year. There are 28 million covers the Nepal Himalaya with blankets of temporary increase in the number of meeting of Trekking Agents Association of scouts worldwide and groups from snow is ideal for every adventure possible inbound flights operated by international Nepal in an attempt to pacify the hungry Australia and Singapore are already from mountaineering and meeting Maoists, airlines to address the lack of seats for industry but international operators have organising trips to Nepal to climb the new to river rafting and riding elephants in the inbound tourists until 31 December. still not received written permission till peak while Scouts in Denmark and jungles down south. Besides spring, This should have settled the concerns the time of writing. “The plan has been Sweden have confirmed that they will weather-wise the autumn skies clear out to of tourism operators here but many are still announced but the actual materialisation make the voyage in the near future. some of the most majestic views of the sceptical about how much of a difference it still has to take place. In the coming few The season also has bookings for at mighty mountains up north. will create in terms of volume. “Nepal has weeks it will all be clear,” said Gyan least 25 peaks on the permitted list but With all this attraction here one can long been taken out of travel brochures by Amarsinghe, general manager of Qatar Air, which have not been successfully naively assume that if the political international tour operators who don’t which plans to increase its weekly flights ascended yet. The Nepal Mountaineering situation improves tourism will pick up. want to risk their investment because here, from 11 to 14 once they receive formal Association and the Japan Workers’ Alpine But that itself is not enough. anything can happen any time. There has permission. Federation are organising a joint Tourism today depends on a variety of been an increase in the number of inquiries Despite all the bad publicity Nepal has expedition to Nangpai Gosum (7312m) in factors, from the world economy to carrying but everyone is still on a wait and watch received in the last few years, hope is the the same area as Cho Oyu to mark 50 years capacity defined as the number of airline mode,” says Shikhar Prasai, director of flavour of the season. From tour operators of friendship between the countries. seats, get ting to the destination and the Natraj Tours and Travels, one of the largest to hoteliers, and tourist souvenir shops Expeditions are also going out to virgin maximum number of hotel rooms available tour operators in the country. everyone is hoping the political leaders peaks like Dome Kang, north of in the host country. In an effort to Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil will come up with a solution. Those like Kanchenjunga and the 6905m high Mt maximise the tourist inflow the Aviation Pradeep Gyawali may have made Laxmi Rajthala who runs the LBS Pangbari in the Manaslu area. NATION 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 7

Hot off the press ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Print Process, in association with Innovators, RIP Beesants Trading, has now opened in Tripureshwor, just in time to catch The younger generation has a legacy to build on the Dasain rush of cards and publications. It offers a one-stop veryone prayed for miracles solution for prepress services, using as the news of the rescue Heidelberg technology. Much is Eoperations of the helicopter expected from their high-resolution colour separation service, and crash poured in early this week. they offer scanning, retouching, colour proofs and plate-making as But given the terrain of our well. country, lack of contemporary rescue operations, hardware, and Breaking the sound barrier software it is rare for such

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ miracles to actually happen. The Soon the Yamaha brand will be associated with more than just the purr of motorbike engines and generators in Nepal. Morang Auto Works have got authorisation to distribute Yamaha musical ECONOMIC SENSE instruments and audio/visual Artha Beed components, via their showroom in Mountain Plaza, Kantipath. Yamaha drums, guitars, pianos and tragedy has been costly: the keyboards are endorsed by development world lost pioneers musicians including Chris Parker and innovators—people who and Dave Navarro, and their home questioned the status quo, who entertainment systems are recognised for their quality. Yamaha criticised and were criticised speakers, amplifiers, home theatre systems and DVD players are back, hated and envied, but, they also available. could not be ignored. It was difficult to argue with Cosmic showroom Harka Gurung even if you ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ disagreed with him. People like Nepalís own Cosmic Motorcycles Mingma Norbu Sherpa and for things to happen rather than community oriented development have opened a showroom in Teku, Chandra Prasad Gurung brought put a spanner like most will never be the same, but there which accompanies the recent launch of the 125cc CY125-20, and new thoughts into the bureaucracies are known for. are many leaders they have plans to launch other upgraded development world paradigm. Indeed, the loss of these mentored who can perhaps keep models in addition to their current They strived to work on a strategy individuals is a great blow to the the flag flying high. Their loss four. The company is offering heavy that revolved around the conservation and the should be the fuel for accelerating discounts, on-the-spot financing and heavy discounts for the community. While many development world but this Beed more innovative interventions to showroomís first week. development practitioners would sees more. In the Nepali and emerge with more creative models lecture at length on ‘inclusive development world of in the development paradigm. Dreams and goals development’, they were the few corruption, nepotism and For the young Nepalis who

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ who actually made it happen. favouritism, they stood out as find a dead-end to Nepal’s future, It was a dream come true for Yugesh There is rarely a place in the role models who ensured that those who complain of the Shrestha, when he won the Annapurna circuit where they they derived their strength from ‘khattam’ situation and are ëCarlsberg Football Trip of a were not lauded and it is rare for being apolitical and clean. The desperate to find the next escape Lifetimeí promotion in Nepal and got development workers to become energy they provided to flight from the ‘perceived mess,’ to travel to Liverpool and watch the household names. colleagues and friends were there is leaf of learning from their Liverpool-Tottenham Hotspur match of the Barclays English Premier It is also important to through the stand they took vis- lives. Reading the biographies of League live from Carlsbergís VIP understand that non-government à-vis all odds rather than Mingma and Chandra would give suite on 23 September. Things got initiatives succeed if the succumb to political or any other one hope—where one can reach even better for the longtime Liverpool fan though, as first his team government is either silent like in pressure. When people are asked even if the starting point is some crushed the opposition in a 3-0 win, and then he got to personally the boom of the IT industry or if to name a few successful Nepali small obscure village in Nepal. present the Man of the Match award to Steven Gerrard. ìI had there are champions in the professionals, then these Their lives have been always dreamed of watching the game live, and if possible getting government who support these individuals would surely feature shortened, but what they Gerrardís autograph, but this is more than I ever imagined,î gushed initiatives. Tirtha Man Maskey at the top of the list. achieved in their lifetime is much an ecstatic Yugesh. was one such relentless person in Surely, the world of Nepali more than many lives put the government who encouraged conservation, biodiversity and together. Looking forward to the next 25

same category. More and more governments are Express shipping is both an recognising the impact the customs regime has upon trade, indicator and driver of a so youíre seeing more countries exchanging information and aligning towards equalising the level at which you donít country’s trade and charge customs duty, because it helps their economy. industry health. We spoke Nepal could also make progress in the customs area for the to Scott Price, CEO of DHL benefit of the economy overall. Express, Asia Pacific on his Is security a major hassle now? recent visit to Kathmandu Absolutely. And itís getting worse, in the sense that theyíre more stringent. We have always been very careful about about DHL’s prospects in security because we use commercial airlifts, we load on Nepal. passenger airlines. After 9/11, the US put in much more aggressive requirements in terms of security, and many countries in Asia are following American rules. The US is Nepali Times: How far have you got in Nepal? such a huge import market, you might as well follow your Scott Price: Twenty-five years ago, we averaged five largest customer. shipments a week, or 250 a year. Today we have 115,000 shipments a year and nearly 70 employees. That reflects MIN BAJRACHARYA Your company has done some particularly good corporate significant development in Nepalís economic maturity. We Nepal has a place within that, but there is a direct social responsibility work with consumers in Nepal.† certainly had challenges in the last couple of years, but we correlation between an unstable government and a DHL is about 25-30 years old in the Asia Pacific and about havenít seen a significant downturn despite Nepalís reduction in foreign direct investment. We also move amid 5-10 years ago, we began in corporate social responsibility. political situation. regulatory obstacles. The high level of foreign direct I think thatís the maturity of a company, when you reach a investment relative to high-end manufacturing and size where you feel the need to give back to your How does Nepal fit in with your overall Asia strategy? assembly is very closely correlated to the international community. In this part of the world, the focus is on I look after 41 countries in the Asia Pacific. You have the express business. What we push for is customs and airport education. I was very impressed with the school I was mature economies of Japan, Korea, and Australia. Then you flexibility that facilitates the industry. taken to. Sometimes, even when you want to do good, you have India and China with significant foreign direct canít find a local partner who can help you to do that well. investment attractions. Now companies want to hedge their Where is Nepal among Asian countries, in the bottom half However, we are very focused on corporate social bets and thereís increasing support for smaller countries or the top half? responsibility and volunteering our time. Our people enjoy coming together, as trading blocks in the common market. The bottom half; but countries like Thailand fall into the it very much. 8 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 Vested interests Shrestha’s death Interview with former zonal commissioner Surya Bahadur Sen suppression. Although TJMM chairman Jaya in Jana Aastha, 27 September Krishna Goit (pictured) has expressed interest in talking to the government, there has been no Why are you against the response from the state. It is understood that the monarchy? TJMM ordered such a high profile killing The king did not do anything for the because it wanted to draw the governmentís Nepali people. If the king does not attention. However, the government is so busy need the people why should the people keep him? I told the king talking to the Maoists, it can neither talk to the before, ìbe a king of all the TJMM nor take any action. people,î but he could not be. King Shrestha served as a minister and district Gyanendra only wanted to listen to vice chairman during the Panchayat era. a few Ranas, his ambassadors and Although he lived in a Madhesi area, he is said hooligans from yesteryear. The to have good relations with the other villagers. kingís time is over and so is the Accusing the government of being unable to monarchy. provide security, RPP chairman Pashupati Shamsher Rana has asked for Home Minister What path should it take? Krishna Prasad Situala to resign immediately. Everyone, including the king and KIRAN PANDAY Maoist bureau chief of the Janakpur-Sagarmatha the political parties, should agree to give the monarchy a peaceful way zone, Shitalkumar, and district secretary out. Taking a peaceful path means holding a referendum on the fate of Abinash have both condemned Shresthaís the monarchy. The new constitution should be made based on the killing. The government has set up an peopleís decision regarding the monarchy. Himal Khabarpatrika 2-17 October investigation team under regional administrator Shankarlal Chaudhary. Are you demanding this from the king or from the parties? The Tarai Janatantrik Mukti Morcha (TJMM) split It has been five months since the government Both. I have been saying we should have a peopleís referendum from the Maoists, demanding an independent and the Maoists decided on talks, but violence regarding the monarchy since 2000. I demanded this in my book Mero tarai. On 23 September, RPP leader Krishna and killing in Siraha-Saptari has not stopped. Kathaharu, published in 2001. The meeting between the Maoists, the Charan Shrestha was murdered at his home The TJMM, usually involved in abduction, CPN-UML, and the NC on 23 September ended with all three parties village, Belha in Siraha. The TJMM has taken attacks against Maoists, and looting, has agreeing to solve the issue through a referendum, which makes me responsibility for that killing. recently also been involved in killings. happy. Angered by the incident, people from the area Earlier this month, before Shresthaís murder, Is Girija babu trying to save the king? have not only killed the TJMMís Siraha the TJMM killed Maoist supporter Shree If the Nepali Congress had trusted the people, they would not have had Narayan Yadab (Harish Chandra) and Sambhu commander Bihari Mahato and rebel Rudal to make a deal with the king in exchange for security. Girija babu does Mahato, but also burnt down the house of two Yadab, and former Maoist cadres Mahesh not trust the people, and the king has betrayed the peopleís trust. He has others allegedly involved in the incident. Chaudhary and Badri Yadab in June. The killing even taken the help of foreigners to save his own skin. There are Indian Shrestha is perhaps the only non-Maoist of Krishna Charan Shrestha was the TJMMís groups that have stepped up to support the king after he asked them to leader to be killed by the TJMM so far. According way of sending the message to the government save him. Ambassador Moriartyís regular statements are a product of to the TJMM, Shrestha was killed because he that it is powerful and cannot be ignored that. Foreigners are asking to keep the present structure so that either a was involved in economic and social anymore. constitutional or a ceremonial monarchy remains. Girija babu has his own vested interest, but so do foreign powers. † FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 9

Secular Dasain Indigenous communities and and the state has killed nine. ○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○ leftists have long demanded that Nepalis who were hopeful Editorial in Haank, 27 September Nepal be declared a secular state. that the new political situation Parliament’s proclamation earlier would finally make way for Nepal is a multi-religious, this year announcing a secular peace have lost hope. The multi-lingual, multi-cultural, Nepal has been welcomed by Maoists and the state have both and multi-ethnic country. political parties, indigenous violated the ceasefire code of Parliament proclaimed Nepal a communities, and social welfare conduct. secular state [earlier this year], organisations. In a secular Human rights activist while the 1990 constitution had country all religions and cultures Krishna Pahadi says, “Although defined Nepal as a Hindu are treated equally by the state. the Maoists have entered country. Puritans oppose the mainstream politics, their There are more tribal and secularisation of Nepal. The character has not changed, and indigenous communities in biggest loser from secularism is the state has done nothing to Nepal than Hindus, and they the monarchy, which declares remedy the situation.” The have their own distinct itself an incarnation of Vishnu Maoists are using threats and languages, religions, and and has ruled Nepal for over 200 violence to get things done. cultures. Besides them, Nepal years with the backup of Hindu In the last decade, Nepal also has Muslims and religion. This is why puritans, has come to be known to have Buddhists. The tribal and regressionists, and royalists one of the worst human rights indigenous communities who oppose the proclamation. They situations in the world. form the majority of the have even tried to create caste Human rights activists say population are non-Hindus. wars in the name of religion. the nature of human rights But Prithbi Narayan Shah However, their attempts will violations is changing. “This is wanted to create a ‘true Hindu prove fruitless in the face of the first time since 2007 that land’ in Nepal and started people power. After the the government has been so converting the indigenous reinstallation of democracy in insensitive towards its peoples to Hinduism by Nepal it is essential that citizens,” says Subodh expanding the borders of Gorkha. secularism be implemented Pyakuryal of Insec. He says the The Shah dynasty forced correctly. government has failed to indigenous communities to Dasain is now used to provide security to the Nepali accept Brahmanistic Hinduism, promote consumerism and force people. “The Maoists do not backed with the slogan of ‘one indigenous communities to need reasons to kill anyone, language, one religion, one accept a Hindu identity. The they recently killed a widow people’. Due to pressure from the festival is a burden to the poor, for remarrying. How can you power centre, indigenous subsistence farmers, and daily say that they are following the communities have also been wage earners. The government code of conduct?” asks forced to accept Hindu culture should now treat all religions, Pyakuryal. and norms, and festivals like cultures and languages equally. Birendra Prasad Mishra of Dasain are national celebrations. the ceasefire code of conduct Rights wronged monitoring committee agrees

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ that both sides need to follow Samaya, 28 October the code of conduct. The latest victims of Maoist Five months after the ceasefire, violence are Nepal Dairy’s the Maoists are continuing with Herambha and Araniko murder, pressure, extortion, Rajbhandari, who were beaten taxation, and abduction. It looks up by Maoists when the dairy’s like the government can’t stop the workers were not allowed to violence and mayhem. Since 25 form a branch of the Maoist- April, the Maoists have killed 19 affiliated union, ANTUF-R. NILAM GHIMIRE

Sign on shelf: Seven Party Alliance-Maoist agreements Folders from left to right: 12-point, 8-point, 25-point, 5-point Big man: To implement the first understanding came the second agreement, to implement the second came the third, and so onÖ Small man: Oh! So the last one will not be implemented until another agreement follows?

Abin Shrestha in Samaya, 28 September

QUOTE OF THE WEEK Brother, I am like a crow“ lost in the fog. You are older than me. Please teach me how “to run the ministry.

Minister for Land Reform and Management Prabhu Narayan Chaudhary speaking with Minister for Agriculture Mahanta Thakur, Nepal Samacharpatra, 22 September

SELECTED MATERIAL TRANSLATED EVERY WEEK FROM THE NEPALI PRESS Dr Gurung, a tribute instead the path of scholarship. He ran away barefoot to maintained that there was no evidence the Gurung herders Kathmandu, where he joined Darbar High School. Then it inhabiting its base in fact revered Machapuchre. A student was onward to ëlain chhokraí schools in India, an IA back at of mountaineering history, he suggested that the first Tri Chandra College, a Bachelorís from Patna Universityó climbers of Nepal were not the Sherpas but Gurkha and a PhD on the geography of Pokhara Valley from lahurays, starting with Karbir Budathoki and Harkabir Edinburgh University in 1965. Thapa in the Swiss Alps in 1884. That was a time, so soon after the eclipse of the Ranas, Dr Gurung believed in the power of statistics to reveal when Nepalis of ëethnicityí were near-invisible on the and thereby help improve the human condition, and so his national scene. Those outside the country, descendants of latest immersion was in producing the book Nepal: Atlas migrants, were able to rise to the level of their genius; and Statistics. A large-format work in preparation for three within Nepal, however, Kathmanduís autocratic glass full years, it emerged from the printers the day before the ceiling allowed no exception. It was by dint of his author and editor left for Ghunsa at the base of personality and steely determination, his rigour and love of Kangchenjunga. Himal Books, the publishers, was learning, that Dr Gurung became a one-man role model and preparing for a grand presentation by Dr Gurung after the pillar of strength for the rest of emerging Nepal. Dasain break. It will now have to be done in absentia. His first calling was geography, but Dr Gurung was a Author of the widely-acclaimed Vignettes of Nepal multi-tasking multi-disciplinarian who delved into planning, (1980), among more than a dozen equally gripping and demography, art (under Bal Krishna Sama), history (of authoritative works, Dr Gurungís life cannot be mountaineering, hill migration, Gurkha recruitment), encapsulated other than through vignettes. One of his most economicsóand, most recently, transparency in prized possessions was a set of black- governance. He was once Minister of and-white photographs following the Tourism, in the middle of the march of the Himalayan ramparts, taken Panchayat era, and we have never had from a Pilatus Porter flight that he took KIRAN PANDAY someone in that position who better across the 500-mile spine of Nepal. helicopter hits a mountainside, and wipes understood the countryís cultural and When it came time to christen out an entire pantheon of Nepalís best and natural wealth. Over the past decade, scores of the countryís peaks so that A brightest, who believed in returning the amidst the tide of righteous ethnic they did not all get named by western commons to the people. These professionals, who, assertion, Dr Gurung was an exemplar, climbers and cartographers, and along with some equally committed foreign friends, himself intensely concerned about alternatively to save them from the fate were returning to Kathmandu having handed over overturning the national legacy of of mere numericals, it was Dr Gurung the management of the Kangchenjunga exclusion. who was handed the task. That was also how Conservation Area to the local inhabitants. They Dr Gurung had the stature and learning that allowed him Peak 29, towering above his home village in central Nepal, were the gift of the central Himalaya, of Nepal, to not to be cowed by possibility of controversy. In 1983, he became Ngadi Chuli. Across the Nepal Himalaya, thus the world. Each was a life full of creativity, was pilloried for a report on migration that suggested Harka Gurung left his personal stamp on the chulis, and it courage, and Himalayan exhilaration, and will be regulation of the southern border. Last year, ICIMOD was amidst the craggy cliffs of the lower Himalaya, in remembered decades hence for how they helped published a detailed monograph with four decades worth of Taplejung in the east, that he himself returned to nature. define Nepalís future on the foundation of natural photographic evidence from his native Lamjung. In it, Dr Coming down from Manang a few years ago, and science, geography, and respect for people. Gurung sought to debunk the ëtheory of Himalayan passing Ngadi Khola, a porter pointed out to me a Seated in that helicopter was Harka Gurung, degradationí, which seeks to place the blame for collection of houses up the slope to the left. He said, ìThat the Nepali who introduced Nepal to Nepalis. He downstream siltation and flooding at the doorstep of the one, with the kitchen smoke, is the house of Harka was born in 1938 fast by the Ngadi Khola in upper midhill peasantry and its supposed biomass profligacy. Gurung.î It is by that wisp of smoke in his beloved Ngadi Lamjung. Growing up at a time when Kathmandu Ever the genial contrarian, Dr Gurung scoffed at the that I prefer to remember Dr Gurung. z Valley was ëNepalí, he decided to reject the tradition, powered by the myth that it was a holy mountain, ancestral call of Gurkha warriorship, and chose of not allowing mountaineers on Machapuchre. He Kanak Mani Dixit Friends and colleagues

ate Saturday afternoon the phone rang, with news responsibilities, and he always believed in empowering of a helicopter missing in Taplejung with doctors and supporting protected area residents. Narayan Poudel L and Sherpas on boardóthe caller was checking leaves behind his wife, Chanda and daughter Reecha. I to make sure it wasnít me. I switched on the television, hope they realise that there are many people like myself hoping and praying that the helicopter had made a who appreciate his contributions and will miss him badly. forced landing and that those on board were safe. There were far too many names on the passenger list Chandra Prasad Gurung who were my friends and professional colleagues for Despite being from different over 30 years, each with hopes, aspirations, and parts of Nepal, I came to opportunities ahead. They were pillars of Nepalís much know Chandra well when he needed conservation efforts, and pivotal at this point in joined the feasibility study our environmental history. As hours, then days, ticked team for the Annapurna by in incessant rain, our worst fears were confirmed. Conservation Area Project I travelled to Kangchenjunga in August 1994 to (ACAP). Chandra was from carry out a study and its feasibility for protected area the village of Sikles, within status. Like a Buddhist mountain deity, the area the proposed Annapurna displayed both peaceful and wrathful manifestations. Conservation Area. As a On a clear day, the beauty of the ancient forests and MIN BAJRACHARYA local, he had an gushing waterfalls, interspersed with lush grasslands Conservation Area in Arun Valley a reality. In recent years instrumental role in ensuring and agricultural settlements was unparalleled. he worked hard to ensure the Sagarmatha National Park local support for the project. Still, the impossibly rugged terrain and heavy upgrades its management system through participatory Chandra had a PhD in COURTESY: WWF-NEPAL monsoon rains can quickly turn this hidden paradise planning processes. As chief ecologist of the DNPWC, he medical geography, but after his involvement in ACAP he into a ferocious landscape of thunder clouds, rain, and was especially concerned with ensuring that national parks took up conservation and protected areas management as unpredictable landslides into the violent Tamur River. be vigorously protected in these uncertain times. his profession, quickly learning the art of conservation Sadly, it was the latter manifestation that my friends Narayan did not drink or smoke. He was calm and and performing excellently. and colleagues encountered on 23 September. friendly, and the only times anyone ever thought he was At international conferences and workshops, Chandra Although I cannot speak for them today, I do know rude were a result of frequent mix-ups with his identical was an excellent presenter and speaker. With him around, that it was this remarkable versatility and variation in twin. He was always polite and encouraging to co-workers, Nepal was always well represented at camp fires and Nepalís landscapes which inspired them to do the work and when he became director-general, some even parties because he was also an exceptional singer and they did. questioned how someone so nice could govern such a performer. difficult department. But Narayan handled his post with Chandra Gurung served as the director of Annapurna Narayan Prasad Paudel was recently promoted to calm assurance, never becoming caught up in the status of Conservation Area and then member-secretary of the King director-general at the Department of National Parks his position, and always seeking input from his staff and Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation. He was Country and Wildlife Conservation (DNPWC), a hard-earned outsiders. For many he was a good role model. Representative for WWF-Nepal over the last eight years, achievement for a career bureaucrat in the Narayan was a deeply spiritual person and should have during which time he grew the WWF-Nepal Office to a conservation field for over 30 years.†He studied been celebrating Ghatasthapana on that fateful day. At the strong, well-funded conservation institution. He believed forestry and had a Masterís in Natural Resource same time, he was extremely conscientious and polite, and in good publicity as a tool to achieve high-profile Economics. Narayan and I served together in the same would never have turned down a request to attend the conservation work. The last time I met Chandra, at department for many years. He was leader of the team ceremony handing over the Kangchenjunga Conservation Bangkok airport about two months ago, I asked which of that made the Makalu-Barun National Park and Area to the local community. The task was part of his WWF-Nepalís projects was looking most promising. A great motivator Farewell, had heard much about Dawa Tshering Sherpa while working for WWF-Nepal, but only met him on 23 April 2003 in Lelep. I Heíd just been nominated, without contest, as first chairperson of the Kangchenjunga Conservation Area Management Council. † friend Born in Lungthung, Taplejung in 1949, Dawa dai attended the Lelep school until class five, after which he stopped to work on his family farm. He later joined the Nepal Army and studied privately first met Yeshi Lama almost 30 and passed secondary school in 1974. A year later, his grandfather years ago at Darjeelingís died, leaving him alone to fend for himself and his sister. I Bethany School. We were about Dawa daiís civil-service phase began then. He was chief of the COURTESY: WWF-NEPAL six then, but I soon became a fan. Border Administration Office, passed the public service exam, and Yeshi always topped the class. Boys was posted as Khardar in Panchthar, Taplejung, Birgunj, Olangchunggola, and Ilam. were sometimes intimidated by this In 2000, he decided to return home and work to conserve his districtís abundant flora pretty tomboy, but she was always and fauna. When I met him, he had just taken the conservation area staff on a wildlife popular. monitoring trip. He was appreciative of the staff, who had to work in difficult terrain, but was We lost contact after school and devastated to see the poaching occurring in the area. Dawa daiís motto was to do as much met 20 years at her WWF Nepal office as his knowledge, capacity, and authority would allow, for the areaís unique resources. in Baluwatar. Yeshi was still a During the projectís turbulent past two years, Dawa dai was a capable leader and great favourite, loved by WWF staff her for motivator who adeptly handled his responsibilities and negotiated between the demands of her kindness, patience, and hard the project, the locals, and the Maoists. His commitment was a factors which allowed the work, and especially for her passion handover of the management of Kangchenjunga conservation area to the local people. for conserving engendered plant When I left WWF-Nepal in April 2004, Dawa dai wrote me a note saying that I would be species. missed by the people of Kangchenjunga. In 2001, we travelled to Dolpaís Today, Dawa dai, I and many others will miss you and all else you could have done for remote Komang village, taking the Kangchenjunga. z arduous Jomsom route. Yeshi led us Janita Gurung on Mustang horses braving the snow, rain, and extreme cold, to our destination at 5,500m. After weíd shot Minister Gopal Rai, Mina Rai the film, the villagers and amchis were in tears as they bid farewell to Yeshi, who, in the last few years worked tirelessly to promote their work and traditions. opal Rai, State Minister for Forests Yeshi believed amchis made an immense humanitarian contribution, saving and Soil Conservation, was a many lives in remote mountain areas where there are no hospitals, health posts, Gsimple man from Okhaldhunga with or government health workers. She organised many training sessions for young a great sense of humour. Down-to-earth and lamas to encourage them to preserve and refine their traditions. Yeshi was also frank, he was admired by local journalists. a prolific author, with several books on medicinal plants to her credit. I remember when we were in Nepalganj and In recent years, Yeshi has been responsible for WWF Nepalís Mountain he wanted to see the local bajar. His Program, looking after projects in Sagarmatha, Kangchenjunga and Dolpo, the security guard radioed for security, but Rai snow leopard conservation project, as well as the newly-initiated sacred preferred to travel informally by rickshaw Himalayan landscape program. †She remained excited about using film to aid instead. He usually travelled alone, but on her work, and had commissioned Tsering Rhitar Sherpa to make a documentary this trip called his wife from the airport at about snow leopards in Kangchenjunga.

KIRAN PANDAY COURTESY WWF the last minute and asked her to Yeshi was not typical. As a program officer, she never shied away from accompany him. travelling, making several trips to Dolpa and the Everest region. Often she had Mina Rai was a traditional Nepali homemaker. She was meticulous about taking care of to leave her two young sons behind with her beloved husband Tashi, but her children and home. This was the first time ever that she accompanied her husband on wherever she could, Yeshi took her boys. Yeshi Lama will be greatly missed, an official trip. The Rais are survived by one son and four daughters. for her work and for who she was. z Jagat Nepal, Kantipur TV Naresh Newar

ìThe Tarai Arc Landscape Project,î he replied. I hope the contributions. He served as warden of Sagarmatha Dr Damodar Parajuli, a WWF staff will be able to carry on Chandraís legacy, National Park and worked on the planning of the senior official at the dreams, and pride. He will be missed by the Gurung Annapurna Conservation Area. Even after he moved to Ministry of Forest and community and his family and by conservation as a whole. the USA to work for the WWF, he supported conservation Soil Conservation for in Nepal and Bhutan, and his heart and mind always many years, had a remained in Asia. special interest in non- Mingma went from being a barefoot Khumbu child to timber forest products. conservation director for Asia Pacific Program of WWF- He conducted his USA. He made remarkable contributions to Nepal and doctoral research in died doing the work he was most committed to. He was a India on Himalayan yew valued member of the Sherpa community, and is survived (Taxus sp), a promising by his wife Phurba, son Tenzing and daughter Dawa. We source for cancer pray that our shared Sherpa and Buddhist beliefs will treatment. He was help them cope with this irrecoverable loss. known for his unfailing COURTESY: WWF-NEPAL smile and ìke chhaî for everyone. Soft-spoken and Dr Tirtha Man Maskey was a pleasant, he took a great interest in the work and lives of pioneer in the establishment ministry staff. of Nepalís protected areas After joining government service in 1974, he served system. He became the first in many districts as District Forest Officer over the warden of Chitwan National years.†He was director-general of the Forest Park in 1972 and earned his Department, and was recently in charge of the Foreign PhD from the University of Aid Division before becoming acting secretary of the Florida in 1979. His ministry.†He is survived by his wife, four daughters, and contribution to gharial a son. conservation work in Chitwan National Park is Sarad Kumar Rai was particularly well known. Dr born in 1955 in Maskey was one of the Khotang.†A career longest serving director- MIN BAJRACHARYA forester with the generals of the DNPWC. He Department of Forests, he was known to have a sharp tongue, but be extremely served in District Forest ANNE B KEISER IN ëSIR EDMUND HILLARY & THE PEOPLE OF EVERESTí well-meaning. He oversaw Nepalís protected areas Offices in many districts Mingma Norbu Sherpa and I spent many years together, at through a very difficult period of conflict and insurgency. over the years, both in the Ananda Kuti High School in Kathmandu, as university Born in Kathmandu, Dr Maskey had travelled all over hills and tarai.†More students in New Zealand, and later as colleagues in the Nepal to oversee the national parks and reserves. recently, he served as a DNPWC. Mingma was one of the first Sherpas to go Although his first love was always the rhinos, tigers, and planning officer and had a through high school and university, and more uniquely to gharials of the tarai, he was equally fond of the high special interest in join the government service. mountain areas. He was great on social occasions, and community forestry with Mingma was always a go-getter. He took Sir Edmund loved laughing and chatting with friends and staff alike. the Department in COURTESY: WWF-NEPAL Hillary as his mentor and role model, and followed his Though Dr Maskey retired from government service Kathmandu.†He was recently appointed director general motto ënothing ventured, nothing gainedí. Mingma was a at the end of 2005, he kept working. He became co-chair in the Department of Forests.†Sarad Rai was one of the keen outdoor sportsman and liked climbing, skiing and of IUCNís Asian Rhino Specialist group, and was working few high ranking forestry officials from the Rai even water sports. Coming from the mountains, swimming in collaboration with WWF-Nepal when the fateful community.†With his loss there will be less diversity and was not one of our strengths, but Mingma always dove right incident took place. Nepalís conservation community will experience within the Ministry.†He is survived by his in, resulting in a few close calls. Laughing about those miss his contributions. We extend our deepest wife Kabita and two sons, and will be sorely missed. close shaves were among our fondest moments as friends. condolences to his wife Laxmi, and sons Jason Over the years, Mingma made remarkable and Ayush. Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa Cheers, Pauli Hemraj Bhandari buffer zones, A few days before In the 15 months that Hemraj regarded as a highly he left for his ill- Bhandari worked as a successful model. He fated† trip, Pauli reporter and news editor at maintained a Mustonen, the Nepal Television, he carved personal and heartfelt Finnish Charge a niche for himself as one of dedication to his díAffaires in NTVís most diligent and work. Kathmandu, was† inquisitive staff. Efficient and Bijnan was a true organising a professional, Hemraj loved gentleman. He will be concert by Aavas at doing in-depth reports on missed dearly, and is his residence. We development, environmental, survived by his wife, scheduled it for 24 and public concern issues. son, daughter, September, after his Hemraj was a well- parents, two brothers, return from educated, bilingual reporter, and two sisters.

Taplejung. The COURTESY WWF and used his work to push for COURTESY NTV USAID COURTESY USAID concert will never better education and health happen. programs, especially in the mid- and far-western regions. Pauli was much more than a diplomat. He was Hemraj was born in the remote village of Ghodagaon in Margaret Alexander a quiet, humble man who wanted to do something Rolpa in 1979, and won a prestigious scholarship to Margaret Alexander good for Nepal and Nepalis, but would never take Budhanilkantha School. arrived in Kathmandu credit for good results. He loved music and came Hemraj was also a good speaker and leader, and was a as deputy director of to every†Nepathya and Paleti show possible. valuable member of the Society of Ex-Budhanilkantha USAID in 2005, and Pauli had great plans, and they always Studentsí Association, actively involved in their free health worked on the peace reflected Nepali desires. He wanted to see all camps. Always conscious of his roots, Hemraj also worked building and Nepali children going to school. He wanted hard to generate funds for the SEBS scholarship program. reconciliation Palpasa CafÈ to be translated and published in Hemraj was passionate, determined, and innovative process and as a Finnish. He wanted the picture book Kunda Dixit when it came to his work. Just two weeks ago, he had strong advocate for put together, A People War, and the images in it, rushed in at 8PM to cover the pre-launch of the picture book essential to reach as many people as possible within and A People War and refused to be deterred by loadshedding. development beyond Nepal. Pauli wanted to do what he could† He conducted the interview by candlelight, and it was ready programs. A natural to ensure Nepalís forests were conserved as to air on the 10.15 news. The loss of such a passionate, leader, she often those in Finland. promising journalist is a blow to the nation. served as the acting Pauli wanted to go back to Peru, where he had Devendra Dhungana, NTV director of the COURTESY USAID served before. He loved music, and food, and mission, including during the recent helicopter trip. never refused a drink. Above all, Pauli was filled Jillian Bowling Schlaepfer Margaret was energetic, courageous, good- with love for life and a sense of purpose. Music Jill had worked as WWF- natured, and truly inspiring. She previously served has lost a good listener and Nepal, an ever better UKís director of programs in Cote díIvoire, Haiti, Kenya, and the Europe and friend. since July 2004, supporting Eurasia Bureau, and tookt pleasure in learning about Kiran Krishna Shrestha conservation programs each placeís people and cultures. The day of the tackling global threats such ceremony in Kanchenjunga, USAID announced her Sunil Singh as climate change through next assignment, mission director in the Democratic NTV cameraman business and government Republic of Congo. Margaretís friends from around Sunil Prasad advocacy strategies. the world are still sending condolence letters. Singh was born in A Swiss-Australian, Jill USAID Sarlahi 31 years had also worked with WWF- ago, and joined International as deputy Matt Preece Nepal Television to director of the Forests Matthew Preece was man studio Program for two years. Prior born in 1975 in New cameras in 1997. to that, she worked as a York, but travelled He worked at the director at the International COURTESY WWF all over the world. Kohalpur regional Federation of Building and Wood Workers in Switzerland, He loved people and transmission in the Oregon Department of Forestry (USA) and in the the outdoors, and centre for several Australian Federal Public Service. was able to combine years and then at Hannah Williams, WWF-UK both in his work in the central office. COURTESY WWF environmental Dedicated, quiet, Jennifer Headley education. and very warm, Singh had won various awards for Jennifer Headley joined He received his his work. He had only started working as a news WWF-UK in August 2003. MA in Sustainable cameraman two months ago. As coordinator for the International

Sunil is survived by his wife and two Himalaya/South Asia Development in 2004 COURTESY WWF daughters, who are now faced with a serious Programme, she promoted from Brandeis crisis. Sunilís wife is an Indian citizen, and as community-based species University in Boston. After internships and their marriage was not registered, his daughters conservation and forestry, consultancies in several countries, Matt joined do not have citizenship either, and the family are plantations, and natural WWF-Nepal in May 2006 as program officer for the not entitled to insurance claims. forest regeneration. Jennifer Eastern Himalaya Eco-region Complex. He was Sunilís colleagues at NTV will remember him also educated people about particularly interested in hands-on environmental as being very committed, and will miss his climate change. She had work and teaching conservation. contributions greatly. been based in Nepal since Matt also spent several months in Bangalore Ram Sharan Mahat, Kantipur TV 2005, focusing on the helping locals learn to use natural resources in eco-

eastern Himalayas. COURTESY WWF friendly and sustainable ways. He also led groups of Vijaya Shrestha A Canadian national, students to study the ecology of coastal Mexico and Vijaya Shrestha Jennifer first came to Kathmandu in 2001 and worked to help preserve the sea turtles of Costa Rica. was a rare through CECI on species conservation and natural resource Matt loved to travel and experience life. His individual who, management. Before that, she had lived and worked in the humorous emails of experiences overseas and the besides being a Canadian Arctic. pictures of his adventures will be greatly missed. He successful She was an important part of Nepalís WWF family. Her was excited to begin work at the WWF, and felt businessman, also friends remember her as being feeling a strong sense of lucky to work on something he believed in. worked to raise accomplishment about developing a program approach. Matt is survived by his parents, four siblings, social and political Jennifer is survived by her parents and two sisters. and 11 nieces and nephews. Mattís family and consciousness in Headley family, Hannah Wiliams, WWF-UK friends worldwide will miss his sense of humour and his home district of generosity of spirit, but he died doing what he loved, Taplejung. As a Bijnan Acharya and for that we are grateful. recent president of Born was born in Tanahaun district into a family of poets, Debbi Wooten, sister the Taplejung and Bijnan grew to be a leading environmentalist here. He Chamber of earned a doctorate on Forest and Biodiversity Assessment COURTESY WWF Commerce and from Leiden University in the Netherlands, and authored Industry and the Mechi zonal representative, numerous scholarly articles. Shree Airlines Crew Shrestha was also executive member of the Bijnan served at the Ministry of Forests and Soil Captain Klim Kim was from Kyrgystan and joined Federation of Nepalese Chambers of Commerce Conservation in various capacities until he joined USAID in Shree Airlines about a year ago. and Industry. He contributed greatly to the 1999 as the Environment and Forestry Program Specialist. Flight engineer Valeriy Safronov was Russian. establishment and development of the Taplejung He was also the mission Environmental officer responsible Captain Mingma Sherpa had joined Shree Airlines Chamber of Commerce and Industry, and always for ensuring that every USAID project met environmental just last week, and previously worked for Alliance emphasised unity. Shrestha was involved in safety standards before implementation. Helicopters. exporting tea and other local produce from Bijnan managed complex programs dealing with Cabin attendant Guruwar Tandul was from Taplejung to the Indian market. Vijaya Shrestha community forests, buffer zones, irrigation schemes, and Bagbazar. He is remembered by colleagues as a leaves behind a wife and two children. hydropower. †He also contributed immensely to Nepalís friendly and sincere young man. Nepali Times community-based approach to management of forests and NATION 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 13

COURTESY: GAA DESPAIR AND HOPE: Over 36 hours of continuous rain flooded Banke and Bardia in the first week of September (left). Volunteer doctors treating flood victims in Gangapur

RAMESHWOR BOHARA speaking area was the language vowing to return or tell others to barrier. It was difficult making sure come. they understood instructions about The next day when we woke medicine dosages and timings. up on the rooftop to the rising sun Several of them didnít know their and the green fields, we A trickle of hope age, or had trouble describing immediately started packing and their medical problems. Many of loading our remaining supplies We went to help flood victims, and the children were acutely into a tractor, the best vehicle for malnourished, and the adults often the terrain. As we started moving, realised the problems went far deeper asked for something to ìmake villagers followed us asking us them strongî. Poverty and poor not to leave, telling us that we had GANGAPUR, BANKEñMost of us, and thirsty, we slept on a cement was so large that even the police hygiene were also rampant, and to do more. Some even tried to myself included, rarely leave our rooftop under the starry tarai couldnít control it. Local un- those were problems that had block the road in places. Our hometowns or see much of Nepal. night. armed Maoist cadres helped been around long before the flood. hearts went out to them, but we So when we decided to set up a The local health post was manage the crowdóone of the A villager, echoing what others simply didnít have enough time or temporary heath camp in the flood- large, with two buildings. The many surprises was seeing them including the police and the supplies to help everybody. two-storied front building had work together with the police, for Maoists had already tols us, said, Our experience had brought NEPALI PAN been converted into living all the world as if everyone was ìThis is the first time any us face to face with the stark Sadeep Shah quarters for the policemen, and on the same side. organisation has come to our aid reality of our country. The the five rooms of the single- Over the course of the day, in such a large scale, bringing underlying poverty and Abhishek Thapa storied back one were to be our our doctors saw about 1,700 doctors and medicines along.î underdevelopment we had all health camp by day, its roof our people from four surrounding Despite the heat and heard about but never really seen affected areas, we knew weíd be beds by night. VDCs. While registering communication problems, when hit us hard. We may not have experiencing something different. By 8AM a steady influx of patients, examining them, and the camp ended after 10 hours, the made huge changes in the lives of We didnít expect to re-think the people started arriving at our dispensing drugs, one of our doctors had examined everyone the people we helped, but we did way we saw our country. camp. By afternoon, the crowd biggest problem in this Awadhi- they could, with many people what we could. z When the floods devastated Banke and Bardiya, Godavari Alumni Association and West- East Youth Volunteer Organisation Nepal, a recently established NGO, decided at an emergency meeting to send medical relief to the worst-affected areas. I, along with 17 other young volunteers and 10 medical doctors, some fresh from school, eagerly volunteered. We left on 11 September, bombarded with warnings about landslides and highway closures, as well as fears of dacoits, Maoists, and political unrest. It took us 20 hours to reach Nepalganj instead of the usual 12 because of traffic jams caused by landslides, detours, and a flat tyre. From Nepalganj we got on another bus, crossed the Rapti on a boat shared with bicycles and two dozen other people. A half- finished bridge stood silently across the river. On the other side, we loaded our supplies into three waiting bullock carts and literally set off into the unknown. As darkness fell we found ourselves walking through the jungle, passing the occasional village and struggling to keep everyone together. We reached Gangapur after midnight, and were welcomed by a few sleepy policemen stationed at the local government health post to assist with relief efforts. Tired, hungry, 14 SHOPPING The mega shopping experience for those with Ready for retail little time and big budgets

hen Bishal Bazaar opened in the 1980s, it quickly became the stuff of urban legendsóthe size, the W variety and, of course, the escalator. Todayís Kathmanduites are decidedly more blasÈ about the mega shopping experience, and understandably so considering the number of new shopping mall, complexes and department stores that have mushroomed across the Valley. These behemoth structures stand as a tribute to Kathmanduís commitment to consumerism, and each seems even larger and more inclusive than the restóthe United World Trade Centre currently under construction in Tripureswor being a prime example. Gone are the days spent hopping from Darbar Marg to New Road and then to Ason for a full Dasain shop. For the time conscious, things have never been so easy. Even so, it still pays to shop around for the best shopping centreóand thatís where Nepali Times helps you out.

THE BLUEBIRD EXPERIENCE Two decades after its first department store opened in Tripureswor, the Bluebird franchise has expanded to include another branch in Lajimpat, and is now completing its flagship store's transition into a bonafide mall. When the waning fortunes of the tourism industry forced the Bluestar Hotel to close 11 months ago, it provided an MIN BAJRACHARYA 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 15 ideal opportunity for Binod Tuladhar to realise his for pure, unadulterated mustard oil, head to Gemini. ambitions of creating the ultimate all-in-one shopping Opening hours: 8AM to 8PM experience. Half the old hotel has now been converted into Special offers: Up to 40 percent discount on all garments shops. ìThereís a food court, over 50 brands and outlets until Tihar including a beauty salon, a foot massage centre and a For a privilege card: Regular customers eligible. florist,î says Tuladhar, explaining that although each outlet Distribution begins next month rents their own space, it still all comes under a single Other attractions: A bakery and a fresh fruits and vegetable overall management. shop The interior has been done up in a similar style to Parking: 25 cars department stores abroad, and the shops carry everything from perfume, watches, sportswear, lingerie, and luggage to various brands like Addidas, Bossini, Leviís, and Reebok. The mall also houses Kathmanduís first clothing outlets of Baleno, Dapper, Crimsoune, Koutons, Womenís Wear, and Duke. There are also Indian brands like Peter KIRAN PANDAY England, Raymond, Woodland, Park Avenue, and two floors above sell clothing. Excalibur while local brands are Fitrite and John Players. Opening hours: 8AM to 8PM everyday Plum, a lingerie store that sells brands like Kyra, Wavily, Special offers: 10 percent discount on all garments, up to Anne Bra, Sabina and Jockey has opened its second 50 percent discount on selected items, and 2-3 percent off outlet here and so has Top Class, a leading fashion store on food until Tihar for women. Dasain lucky draw: Winners of Rs 7,50,000 worth of The food court, which includes restaurants like prizes including digital fridge, washing machines, vacuum Bawarchi, Road House CafÈ and Hunan, is set to open cleaners to be announced after Tihar between Dasain and Tihar. The mall will also introduce For a privilege card: Contact the store after Tihar. valet parking afterTihar. Standard Chartered Bank credit card holders enjoy cash back on discounts and are eligible for the lucky draw Opening hours: 10AM to 8PM everyday Other attractions: A separate bakery, fruits, organic and Special offers: 10 percent discount on all garments, 5-40 non-organic vegetable stand KIRAN PANDAY percent discount on American Tourister luggage, 1.5 litres Parking: 10 cars inside the compound, 15-25 outdoor of Pepsi free for every food purchase above Rs 2,000, parking, and up to 70 motorcycles NAMASTE 600ml Pepsi free for every food purchase above Rs 1,000 Currently part of the former Hotel Narayani complex in until Tihar Pulchok, Namaste Department store now covers a For a privilege card: Accumulate bills worth Rs 12,000 staggering 17,000 sq feet. Namaste started its first store from any Bluebird stores and get discounts all year round 15 years ago in Jawlakhel and relocated to Pulchok in Other attractions: Childrenís crËche Punkie Universe and 2004, and also has another branch in Maharajganj. Itís a Furniture Land, which is offering a 10 percent discount on must-visit for discerning drinkers, as it has over 3,000 all furniture until 25 October kinds of liquor and boasts one of the best selections of wine Parking: Available for 70 cars and 60 motorcycles in town, meticulously organised by category, year and country. A small kiosk between the stairways acts as a book corner, ideal for the reluctant shopping companion SALEWAYS who prefers to leaf through the magazines and novels. The Saleways Department Store in Pulchok is actually a ìWe also have the best electronic appliances in town,î branch of the Saleways in Pokhara, which started 14 years says Jeewan Sakya, Namasteís managing director. Sakya ago. Following the success of the two Pokhara stores, it knows how to keep his customers happy as the client list opened in Kathmandu in 2004, swiftly gaining loyal has jumped over 8,000. customers because of its pricing and impeccable service. MIN BAJRACHARYA It claims to have the lowest prices of any department store Opening hours: 8.30 AM to 8PM everyday in town, and if youíre running short of time the salespeople GEMINI Special offers: 5-50 percent discount up to 2 October. offer to complete your shopping for you. While Boudha seems a bit out of the way for most city Himalayan Bank lottery every day: Use a credit card for ìSaleways is popular because of its friendliness. Our residentsí grocery needs, many have found the trek worth purchases Rs 2,000 or over, and you could win a prize motto is buy cheap, sell cheap,î says manager Panu Dutta it since Gemini Grocery opened in 1991. Today there's a worth Rs 2,000 Paudel. If you find a product cheaper elsewhere, ìbring second branch in Jawlakhel which opened in 2002, but For a privilege card: Buy goods worth Rs 2000, earn 400 your bill back and weíll return your money,î adds Paudel. true fans will still go to the massive new department store mileage points and become eligible for a Dasain upahar Well-organised aisles make shopping intuitive and complex in Boudha. They sell a vast range of Teflon Other attractions: A separate bakery and a grocery inside easy, and transactions are swift. Apart from food and coated products and are the only department store with a the premises beverages, there's a a separate cheese corner while the separate freezer unit for frozen products. If youíre looking Parking: 15-20 cars 16 NATION 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317

Along with the Craters, the lunar landscape is composed of darker and brighter areas. The brighter areas are the highlands, or Terrae, and the darker plains October sky are called Maria, or seas. (They are not actually seas, but were wrongly identified as such by Galileo in 1610 when he was mapping the lunar surface.) With just The Craters of the binoculars, you can enjoy viewing Mare Crisium, Mare Imbrium, Oceanus throughout October, moving into Libra at Moon and the Variable Procellarum, Mare Serenitatis, etc. The the very end of the month. Star Mira add to the ‘chest of the rabbit’ is the Mare Mercury sets about 45 minutes after the Tranquillitatis (Sea of Tranquility) where Sun on 1 October, but each evening it festive mood the Appollo 11 landed in 1969. moves farther from the sunset until it Regarding stars, at sunset, the Great reaches its greatest eastern elongation on Summer Triangle (Vega–Deneb–Altair) is the 17 October. Catch this opportunity to still view Mercury with your binoculars. overhead. Venus, which has been hard to see for STARGAZING Other some weeks now, will finally disappear Kedar S Badu prominent behind the Sun (superior conjunction) on constellations 27 October. We’ll have to wait until late to the November to see the brilliant Evening Star north are the Square of Pegasus and again. Andromeda. Train your binoculars towards Mars is also hidden behind the Sun this Andromeda to identify the Great Galaxy month. The Red Planet is at conjunction on M31 (The Andromeda Galaxy). 23 October to become a morning object. Variable Stars change in brightness Jupiter may still be just visible, with time. October is a good time to look immediately after sunset, looking like a for Mira, a super-giant variable star in the bright star very low in the south-western constellation of Cetus, the Whale. This star sky. We’ll certainly lose sight of it by the is more than 100 times as large as our own end of the month. Sun and pretty close to us too, a mere 95 Saturn in Leo, is the only naked-eye light-years away. Spend some time this planet on view this month after midnight. month trying to find Mira and seeing how Meteors: The Draconids are a brief one- asain is a great time for amateur colliding asteroids and comets some three its brightness changes over time. day storm lasting on 9 October! The astronomers, with clear skies and billion years ago. The impact craters on its Don’t miss the occlusion of Pleiades Orionids start around the 15 October and Dfree time. Most of the planets are surface are so large, they can easily be seen (Seven-Sisters) by the Moon on 9 October, peak on the 21st, with a rate of about 25 behind the Sun now, so it’s a chance to with the naked eye. Lunar charts are easily when the Moon will pass directly in front meteors per hour. The Taurids begin at concentrate on the Craters of the Moon and downloaded from the internet, and you can of the famous star cluster. the end of the month to peak in early some wonderful stars. use binoculars to identify some major November. Look at the Moon in the night sky, and craters like Copernicus, Kepler, Plato, Other highlights for October: you can see the battered surface formed by and Tycho. The Sun is in the constellation of Virgo [email protected] Sa Karnali revisited

ALOK TUMBAHANGPHEY

epathayaís hit song Sa Karnali and its music directed by Bhusan Dahal. The on-location scenes video are milestones in Nepali pop music. shot before and during the making capture the N Fusing folk tunes with modern music may be sentiments of all those involved in the process. the rage among Nepali rock bands trying to get into Protagonist Amrit Gurungís agony due to the the rural market, but Nepathya and Nepa~Laya, conflict is apparent when he discovers trenches dug their managers, deserve praise for reaching out to by the army around the Juphal airport. Cameraman Dolpo, the largest district, and yet one of the most Bidur Pandey and director Bhusan Dahal are remote and underprivileged in Nepal. awestruck by the landscape despite the lack of But thatís not why the song and its video deserve mention. Sa Karnaliís music video stands out because it brings the best of Dolpo through a song whose lyrics and tune have a local folk base and are yet catchy enough for urban hipsters to want to twirl around like Amrit Gurung, Nepathyaís vocalist in the video. The story in the video aptly portrays a small segment in the life of a Dolpoli. NEPALAYA Thinley, of Caravan fame, and Amrit are traders greenery and constantly talking about how different travelling on business. The much older Thinley it all is from what they are used to. Thinley, still a hands Amrit a ëCompany Malaí a necklace of silver real character, is unforgettable. The village lass to g]kfnL coins from colonial India and another lined with the whom Amrit is seen offering the necklaces is a tusks of a musk deer so that the young man may perfect portrayal of Nepalís hidden rural beauties. Daily 20.45-21.15 on 102.4 get himself a bride. The necklaces are still And finally, watching Dolpoli horsemen race down considered a symbol of the banks of the Karnali convinces one that the Radio Sagarmatha wealth and are in the region. They are also linked blood of Genghis Khan flows through them. P.O. Box 6958, with Nepalís long history of migrant labour and The documentary is a must-watch for those who Bakhundole, Lalitpur, Nepal Tel: ++977-1-545680, 545681, trade connections down south in India and up north loved the song as well as for those who have Fax: ++ 977-1- 530227 in Tibet. dreamed of the turquoise blue waters of Shey [email protected], In The Making of Sa Karnali, director Kiran Phoksundo and is being screened at the Kumari www.radiosagarmatha.org Krishna Shrestha follows the shoot of the video Hall from 6 October for a week. z MUSIC 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 17 The jazz peace Grooving with Surya Classic Jazzmandu

Each individual adds their own music at Jazzmandu, but also focused Afro-Cuban traditions. twist, giving the festival a about how the music and the city Chhetri, who holds Cadenza dynamic profile that keeps meld. The concerts at Gokarna together, says, “Nepal's best listeners coming back for more. play off the sense of space and to musicians have played for Even the artists never really the mountains behind, while Jazz Cadenza, and when they leave, know what to expect at at Patan is always a fusion of the they’re even better. We embrace Jazzmandu. Jazz-funk musician best of all worlds. styles from all over the world and Andy Grosskopf, a newcomer to Even the musicians from blend them. That’s what makes Kathmandu with Surya Classic Nepal are remarkably diverse. this so challenging, and fun.” Jazzmandu 2006 says, “I’m very Gandharba musicians have played One of the reasons there is so interested in getting to know at a previous festival, and this much crossover music is to other cultures and ways of life!” year Kutumba, a folk-fusion band, spread the jazz bug. The dance Navin Chhetri, drummer and and Stupa, a rock-jazz combo will grooves serve as a sort of gateway vocalist of Cadenza, still gets also make an appearance. drug for the real thing. As Chhetri emails from international acts As always, Cadenza remain a explains, “Jazz used to be from previous years—and many star attraction. Along with their considered music that old people from outfits that want to play— lineup, their style has changed listen to while lounging around. waxing rapturous about what from the straight-ahead, Now you can feel the excitement, they fancifully call ‘jazz in the sometimes noodly sound of five energy, talent, and sophistication. Himalaya’. It’s not just about the years ago, to improvisation- It’s simple, yet complicated." z SHREYA MUKHERJEE running as Surya Classic Jazzmandu 2006 from 11-18 October. athmandu jazz pioneers Besides Cadenza, this year's Cadenza sure know how to artists include The Remi Abram Kmake an impression— their Quartet, Andy Grosskopf, El David performance at the 4th Palmer Burgos, Francois Carrier, Judy Street Jazz Festival in Townsville, Lewis, Latin Jazz All Stars, Australia in 2000 impressed Norwegian Musos, and Stupa. everyone from jazz greats Don They come together with lofty Burrows and the All-Stars to ideals of playing for peace. Like coordinator Neal Sellars' daughter jazz, they say, peace has no Susan, who packed up to come boundaries. Jazzmandu certainly work on a smaller festival right seems to transcend nationality, here in the Valley. The first with past acts including artists Jazzmandu two years later, from Australia, Denmark, the US, featuring Burrows and Afro Dizzi Benin, and India. We’ve heard big Act, took the city by storm. Today band, free jazz, classical Indian- the event is a regular fixture of the jazz fusion, and a lot of funked- city’s cultural calendar, this year up, danceable crossover music.

Upstairs Jam featuring The Remi Abram Quartet/Cadenza & Friends, 7.30 PM on Wednesday, 11 October at the Upstairs Jazz Bar, Lajimpat, Rs 300.

Free Jazz a spontaneous warm up jam open to all, with Jazzmandu musicians at Darbar Square, Basantapur. 4-5PM, Thursday 12 October

Gokarna Jazz Bazaar featuring Nepali and international performers in a blend of cultural folk, classical and jazz music. 5PM onwards at the Gokarna Forest Golf Resort on Friday, 13 October, Rs 500. Free shuttles available.

Peace Parade Music for peace down the streets of Lajimpat, with jazz musicians, dancers, folk musicians, pancha kanyas and Buddhist monks. 11.30 AM ñ 12.30 PM, starting from Upstairs Jazz Bar on Saturday, 14 October

Red Hot Latin Jazz Afro-Caribbean and South American rhythms on Saturday, 14 October from 7.30 PM onwards at Hotel Shangri-la, Lajimpat. Rs 399

Jazz Movies featuring The Miles Davis Story and Calle 54, 6.30 PM onwards at Upstairs Jazz Bar for Rs 100 on Sunday, 15 October

Valley Jam with Francois Carrier, Andreas Hessen Schei and Hilde Marie Kjersem at 1905, Kantipath. 6.30 PM onwards on Sunday, 15 October for Rs 300

Jazz at Patan Nepali classical music fuses with international jazz and south Indian sounds on Monday 16 October, 6.30 PM on at Patan Museum Square for Rs 999.

All-Star Fever at Hotel Shangri-la, Tuesday, 17 October. The ultimate jam, with Jazzmandu musicians getting together after their individual sets for a high-energy jam. Rs 599, 5PM onwards, includes an exhibition of Jazzmandu photographs.

Jazz for the Next Generation Musicians share their stories and experiences with young jazz lovers at Nepal Music Centre, 11AM-1PM on Wednesday, 18 October.

Upstairs Jam Jazzmandu artists get together for a final gig on Wednesday, 18 October at Upstairs Jazz Bar. 7.30 PM onwards for Rs 300 18 CITY 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317

ABOUT TOWN YAK YETI YAK by MIKU

EXHIBITIONS ™ Women in Nature by Erina Tamrakar till 20 October at Siddhartha Art Gallery. 4218048 ™ Aloha Namaste Sacred Places, Sacred Animal paintings by Wicki Van De Veer till 20 October at Siddharth Art Gallery ™ Figures in Paint by Chirag Bangdel at Imago Dei CafÈ Gallery, 9AM-9PM. 4442464

EVENTS ™ Fulpati 29 September ™ Tika 2 October ™ Classical Nepali Concert During a night of partying, Anamika (Urmila coordinated by Sarita Matondkar) meets Nikhil (Sanjay Suri) at a pub. Mishra, 8 October, 6.30 The chemistry between them is instant but she † PM, Rs 500 at the Garden disappears into the night without even telling him of Dreams her name. Nikhil starts to visit the pub regularly ™ The Jazz Affair a fundraiser hoping to meet her again. One such night at the pub for Bhaktapur Cancer with friends a confrontation leads to a shot being Hospital Diagnostic Centre, fired. Time stands still as Nikhil realises that he is 11 October, 6PM, Rs 2,000 holding the gun from which the shot was fired. This at the Garden of Dreams Entertainment moment would change all their lives forever. ™ Japanese Day displays of Ikebana, Bonsai, Japanese dolls and Call 4442220 for show timings at Jai Nepal more, 14 October, 10.30 AM- 10PM, Rs 500 at the Garden of

Quest www.jainepal.com Dreams ™ Fire in the Monastery a play by Abhi Subedi, directed by Sunil Pokhrel and presented by Gurukul, 17 October, 7PM, Rs 300 at the Garden of Dreams ™ Salsa Classes at the Radisson Hotel, 6PM, pre-register at the hotel reception. 4411818 ™ Tai-Chi, Qi-Qong and Hatha Yoga at the Self Awakening Centre, Baber Mahal Revisited, call to sign up. 4256618

MUSIC ™ Dawa Gyalmo at the Paleti Series, 28 and 29 September, 5.30 PM, nepa-laya R salaa 5552839 ™ Dwarikaís Oktoberfest a fusion of food and music at Dwarikaís, 29 September, Rs 850 ™ Jazz Affair at the opening of the Garden of Dreams, Saskia Laroo to perform, 11 October, Rs 2,000. 4495000 ™ Surya Classic Jazzmandu 2006 11-18 October ™ Open Mic Night at ViaVia CafÈ, Thamel every Friday, 8PM

DINING ™ Mezza and Margaritas at Dwarikaís Fusion, every Wednesday at 5.30 PM, Rs 555. 4479448 ™ Seven Sensations at Hotel Yak & Yeti, cocktails and snacks. 4248999 ™ Thakali Lunch special price, everyday at Moksh. 5526212 ™ Scrumptious wood fired pizzas at Roadhouse Cafe, Thamel 4262768 and Pulchok 5521755 ™ A Sweet Taste of Life at La Dolce Vita, authentic Italian cuisine. 4700612 ™ Season of Freshness at Shambala Garden Cafe, Shangri-La Hotel, happy hours 12-7 PM. 4412999 ™ Creations from the Clay Oven at Stupa View Restaurant, Boudha Stupa, 4480262 ™ Monsoon Madness Wine Festival enjoy wines from four continents at Kilroyís of Kathmandu. 4250440 ™ Wet & Wild Summer Splash†swimming and lunch, or overnight stay with breakfast and swimming, Godavari Village Resort. 5560675 ™ Weekend Brunch at Hyatt Regency, Kathmandu. 4491234 g]kfn slifk[ wfg| d'n's xf ] . oxfsf+ *) kltzteGbf| a9L GETAWAYS hgtf slif[ k;fdf] cfwfl/t ™ Explore Bandipur with Kutumba at River Side Springs Resort, 6-7 October, Rs 3,000, book now. 5521690 5g \ . sn" /fli6o« cfosf ] ‰G8} ™ Sherpa Dasain trek in the Helambu region, five days from 30 NEPALI WEATHER by NGAMINDRA DAHAL $) kltzt| lx:;f clxn ] klg September. 4412508 s[lif Ifqn] ] g } cfu6] sf] ] 5 . ™ Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge open for Dasain Tihar Like the floods last month, last l;Ëf ] d'n'ssf ] cflys,{ ;fdflhs reservations. 4361500 weekís inclement weather too was d]?b08sf ] ?kdf /xsf] ] slifIf[ ]q ™ Nature Retreat at Park Village Resorts & Spa. 4375280 one of those unstoppable natural KATHMANDU pklIft] x'g' x'Fb}g . sifsx¿[ ™ Escape Kathmandu at Shivapuri Heights Cottage. 9841371927 phenomena that take everyone by ™ Escape to Godavari Village Resort,†an overnight stay surprise. There should be few b]zsf jf:tljs gfos x'g\ . package†with breakfast & swimming. 5560675 surprises this week, though, pgLx¿nfO { ;Ddfg / sb/ Wednesday afternoonís satellite ugk5'{ { . sifsx¿n[ ] klg cfˆgf] picture shows a few wispy clouds kl;gfdfly ljZjf; ugk5'{ { . For inclusion in the listing send information to [email protected] over Nepal. The monsoon has definitely left, though its erratic gof F gof F slif[ k0ffnL| cjnDag appearance and disappearance ugk5'{ { . k9\b}df vtL] ug '{ gx'g] this year makes one wonder. xfOg] . ‰g \ slifIf[ qnfO] { Dasain days will be marked by cfwlgsLs/0f' ug { lzlIft / occasional patchy clouds, but for the most part expect hot, bright ;rt] sissf[ ] vffrf ] 5 . To;}n] days, and crisp nights. s[lif k;fnfO] { cfb/ u/f}+, KATHMANDU VALLEY s[isnfO { ;Ddfg u/f }+ . Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue g]kfn ;/sf/ ;"rgf tyf ;~rf/ dGqfno 6 27-19 26-18 25-17 27-18 29-17 ;"rgf ljefu HAPPENINGS 29 SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 5 2006 #317 19

KIRAN PANDAY ROUND TABLE: Leaders of the seven-party alliance meeting in Baluwatar on Tuesday to decide to manage the arms of the state and the Maoists, based on the five-point letter sent to the United Nations. Radio Jeevan

whole generation of Nepalis and plan our programming around magazine, Jeevan is usually have probably picked up that.î It was time well spent, as personally responsible for the A their music tastes from ten years later concepts and scripting of ads. He Hits FMís executive director, Hits FM 91.2 is thriving, as the enjoys playing with words, coming Jeevan Shrestha. He got his only commercial radio station with up with taglines and slogans like enthusiasm from the hippies who a 24-hour focus on music and Mercantileís†ëthe time has comeí

MIN BAJRACHARYA drifted through the streets of entertainment. † and the slurred ëjunsukai bar, Rum Jhocchen while he was growing It hasnít all been song and Doodle Barí. Although he doesnít PROMOTING NEPALI: Senior journalist Bhairab Risal receives the up, bringing with them the sounds games though. With state-run host programs himself, he does do Jagadambashree Award from Kamal Mani Dixit for his contribution to of Bob Dylan, Led Zeppelin, and Radio Nepal as their only ads, and his distinctive, gravelly the Nepali language through journalism on Sunday. the rest. A decade ago, when predecessor, building up a radio voice has become as well-known Hits FM was leading Kathmanduís advertising industry was just as as those of his presenters. Often, FM revolution, the start-up library challenging as gauging itís what advertisers insist on. † came largely from Jeevanís listenership and training staff. Despite increasing competition personal collection. Most of the Using their ear for what sells and from new FM stations and Nepali tv, albums still havenít made their making a wise decision to invest Jeevan is confident that the station, way back to him. † in production music, Jeevan and which makes a trio of ten-year-olds After working in tourism and the Hits FM team have created with his twin sons, is on the right hospitality and spending years in many of Nepalís most track. The prestigious Closeup-Hits Denmark and elsewhere in memorableñand successfulñ radio FM Music Awards and a city Europe, Jeevanís foray into radio advertising campaigns. clamouring for quality in 1996 was largely trial and error. For clients ranging from local entertainment will only help. To get ìSonny Shrestha (managing banks and restaurants to more listeners, says Jeevan, ìYou director then) and I had to think international companies like just have to be good at what you hard about what people wanted, Mazda, Honda, and TIME do.î z

MIN BAJRACHARYA PICTURE THIS: Mukunda Acharya, director of the Department of Information, and Suresh Acharya of the World Bank analyse a photograph at Kishor Kayastha's third solo exhibition at the World Bank Public Information Center on Monday.

ANUP PRAKASH AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE: Devotees stand in line in Chyasal, Lalitpur, for Ganesh Puja on Tuesday. Many had been patiently queuing since 4AM. 20 BACKSIDE 29 SEPTEMBER - 5 OCTOBER 2006 #317 Dasain scapegoat

iven the times, and since we are squeezed for space here this www.nepalitimes.com week, letís get right down to brasstacks and look at alternative Gways to celebrate Dasain. Statistics show that Nepalis will consume 75 percent of their annual intake of animal protein during the coming week. There must be a similar breakdown for alcohol consumption as well. Dasain is about binging, and proof is the overpowering aroma emanating from the Bagmati in its immediate aftermath. So this Dasain, letís try to do things differently. A sample survey around the office came up with the following ideas:-† Turn vegetarian (if it is difficult, take a tour of the Goat, Sheep and Poultry Concentration Camp at Balkhu, the Haven for Free-ranging Rangos in Khumaltar or Dakhshinkali Temple on Saturday morning to observe the animals as they attain martyrdom and regain paradise) Refuse to buy any new clothes and shoes. In fact, donate all your new ones and get into your old pants. That is if you can still fit into them. Boycott all fashion shows, auto marts, consumer electronic sale bonanzas, and lotteries that tie your subscription to this paper to a wall clock or microwave oven. Be selective, donít visit relatives you donít like. Get the hell out of Nepal, go to Goa. Better still, emigrate. If anyone tells you to ìgo fly a kiteî smack him on the nose. Drink yourself silly so youíll be judged unfit for paplu sessions. FG

Since Dasain is a clan festival, our semi-overground comrades seem to have reinforced their belief in revolution by keeping it within the family. In the grand tradition of communist utopias like North Korea, they are passing the revolutionary spirit from The Great Leader to The Dear Leader. Our own Awe-inspiring Chairman is turning his†progeny into a protÈgÈ. The son is also rising in the rest of the politburo. Comrade Dinanath has conscripted his firstborn to be his secretary and bodyguard and Comrade Deb has junior in tow at all times. But on intra-party relationships the party has drawn the line. The dapper Commander of the Eastern Div, Comrade Badal and his comrade-at-arms, Comrade Pampha were rapped on the knuckles over some over-comradely behaviour in the past. But Maoist marriages are in full swing as the rank and file use the ceasefire period to tie the nuptial knots of holy matrimony en masse. 'Donations' are now known by their nom de guerre: 'wedding gifts'. The party liaison office at Kopundole recently had glittering lights cascading down from roof terrace as a party party was in full swing. At this rate by this time next year there should be an underground baby boom. †

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