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1 The Best of from $95 a Day

Paris is a city of dreams. Its name calls up a parade of images and associations: the Eiffel Tower, the moonlit quais of the Seine, artists, accordions, and clouds of cigarette smoke. What’s surprising is how well the city lives up to its mythic reputation. Though you won’t see Gene Kelly dancing in the streets or run into Leslie Caron at the supermarket, you might actually hear an accordion playing as you stroll through a quiet market square, or see a rainbow arching over Parisian rooftops. The splendid Belle Epoque architecture still surrounds you; around every corner there seems to be yet another photo to be taken or poem to write. Yet Paris is not a museum. Under- neath its velvet gown, it is a vibrant, modern city with its share of problems and annoyances. Still, if you squint your eyes on a rainy night, you might catch a glimpse of the Paris Brassaï photographed decades ago—a mysterious and lovely realm of the imagination. Fortunately, this particular dream is not limited to pashas with bulging bank accounts. Though Paris is notoriously expensive, a little digging will reveal a healthy supply of reasonable hotels and restaurants. If you are willing to venture into street markets and public transportation, you can cut costs dramatically while getting a lit- tle closer to the Parisian’s everyday life. Many of the most impressive sights are free: the majestic sweep of the Champs- Elysées, the quiet grandeur of the place des Vosges, or the leisurely charm of the Jardin du Luxembourg. The city’s magnificent churches are all free; it won’t cost anything to spend an hour beneath the vaulted arches of Notre-Dame. Paris has dozens of afford- able museums, from the mighty Louvre to the tiny doll museum, Musée de la Poupée. Choose your itinerary according to your interests. There’s so much to see; don’t try to do it all. Who cares if you see 35 museums or 13? Take time to sip an espresso or a glass of red wine at an outdoor cafe under the Parisian sky, and allow yourself to get lost down some ancient street where you’ll find the ghost of Balzac, the flash of Yves St-Laurent, and cuisine of Alain Ducasse sharing the same sidewalk view. Paris seduces.COPYRIGHTED Her charm is effusive, yet she wields MATERIAL her power with an iron deter- mination. From the place de la Concorde to the Opera Garnier to the basilica of Sacré-Coeur, she is a living work of art and, like all artists, can be decidedly tempera- mental. But you won’t mind—you’ll even understand—when you sip from her cup, break bread, and fall in love all over again. 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PARIS FROM $95 A DAY

1 Frommer’s Favorite Affordable Experiences • Taking an Evening Cruise on the artisans who bring unique and some- Seine. Touristy, but it doesn’t matter. times whimsical style to the historic The monuments that are impressive district. Stroll down rue des Rosiers by day are floodlit at night, and Paris in the heart of the old Jewish quarter, becomes glittering and romantically browse the antiques shops at Village shadowy by turns. Gliding down the St-Paul, and take a break in the tran- river under softly glowing bridges, quil place des Vosges. The bars and with the towers of Notre-Dame cafes on the main streets are lively at against a dark sky and the Eiffel night and during the annual Fierté Tower transformed into a golden web (gay pride) celebration; the side streets of light, is a magical experience— are so quiet, you can hear your foot- until, that is, some visitors decide steps echo in the dark. See chapter 7. that shouting and doing the wave • Tomb-Hopping in Père-Lachaise. under each bridge is the best way to From Chopin to Jim Morrison to assert one’s nationality. Word of Maria Callas, this lush necropolis is a advice: Save the displays for sporting “who used to be who” of famous events. For more information, see Parisians (or famous people who chapter 7. happened to die in Paris), and there’s • Spending a Day at the Musée d’Orsay. no wrong season or weather to visit. It holds the world’s most comprehen- The bare trees of winter lend it a sive collection of Impressionist art, in haunting quality; on rainy days, the addition to pre-Impressionists, post- cemetery is brooding and melan- Impressionists, and neo-Impression- choly; on a summer day, it’s the ideal ists. See the sculptures on the ground place for a contemplative stroll. Best floor, and then head upstairs for a time to visit? November 1, All Saints’ look at the spectacular collection of Day, when flowers decorate the van Goghs, some little-known Gau- tombs. See chapter 7. guins, and a roomful of Toulouse- • Food Shopping, Parisian Style. In Lautrec pastels. You’ll leave refreshed an outdoor neighborhood market, and energized. See chapter 7. you can observe the French indulging • Whiling Away a Weekend After- their passion for meat, dairy, fruit, noon in the Jardin du Luxem- fish, fowl, pâté, cheese, sausage, rab- bourg. Enjoy the sun on your face bit, and unusual animal parts: brains, while you lean back in an iron chair kidneys, veal’s head, tongue, and and watch neatly dressed, perfectly tripe. The merchants know their mannered Parisians of all ages sail toy products and are happy to offer boats, play tennis, ride ponies, and advice and even cooking tips. The take beekeeping classes. Don’t miss markets on rue Mouffetard and rue the working orchards, where fruit is de Buci are the best known; the ones carefully cultivated for the table of on rue Montorgueil and rue Cler the French Senate and for local char- have an equally tempting array of ities. See chapter 7. produce and are less touristy. • Walking through the Marais. • Touring the Arcades. You’ll feel that Sprawling manors built by 17th-cen- shopping has been elevated to high art tury nobles and narrow streets of fairy- when you wander the iron-and-glass- tale quaintness coexist with artists and covered passages that weave through 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 5

BEST AFFORDABLE HOTEL BETS 5 the 2e arrondissement. Designed to beach, the high temperatures led to a shelter 19th-century shoppers from number of heat-related fatalities. Air- nasty weather, they now hold shops conditioning is not a given in even the that sell stamps, old books, and dis- more luxe hotels, so keep that in mind count clothing; designer boutiques; when you’re thinking about booking a tea salons; homey brasseries; and even late-summer vacation. a wax museum (Grévin). Exploring • Strolling, Inline Skating, or Biking these picturesque passages is a delight- Along the Canal St-Martin. Immor- ful way to while away a rainy after- talized in the Marcel Carné film noon. See chapter 7. Hôtel du Nord, the canal runs • Watching the Sunset from the Pont through eastern Paris, a part of the des Arts. Behind you are the spires of city tourists rarely visit, which is a Notre-Dame; ahead is the river, with pity. The area closes to vehicle traffic its bridges stretching toward the set- on Sunday, and you can bike, faire le ting sun. On the bridge with you just roller (skate), or scooter past foot- might be a mime or someone dressed bridges connecting the tree-lined as a Louvre statue. See chapter 7. promenades on either side of the • Arriving in August. It’s a month water. You’ll see elderly men dozing when the city is shunned by tourists, in the sun as mothers watch their abandoned by its residents. Even toddlers play. You might even take in parking meters are free. The air begins a “spectacle” such as costumed actors to smell like air again, nightlife takes evoking a Venetian scene on a line of it down a notch, and parks and gar- boats floating past the quartier. The dens are in full bloom. Although whole area relives the low-key tran- many restaurants close, enough quillity of prewar, working-class remain open to give you a good Paris. choice of the local cuisine. The muse- • Dancing in the Streets. On June 21, ums, the banks of the Seine, and the the day of the summer solstice, old neighborhoods are full of their everyone pours into the streets to cel- usual charm, but without the bustle, ebrate the Fête de la Musique, and what’s left is beauty, art, and nature. musicians are everywhere. Although Although summers in Paris rarely the quality varies from don’t-give-up- reach the temperatures of more south- your-day-job to top-rung, it’s exhila- ern climes, 2003 proved to be the rating to join the parties in progress exception with an unprecedented heat in every park, garden, and square. wave. While the city government See “Paris Calendar of Events,” in responded by creating an artificial chapter 2.

2 Best Affordable Hotel Bets • Best for Business Travelers: Ideally impress your French business associ- situated near one of the city’s main ates and show them that you’re malin business districts, the Hôtel des (shrewd). See p. 88. Deux Acacias, 28 rue de l’Arc de Tri- • Best for Romantic Atmosphere: A omphe, 17e (& 01-43-80-01-85) is short stroll from the Eiffel Tower, the a quiet, well-run hotel with a lot of Hôtel du Champ de Mars, 7 rue du amenities for the money, including a Champ de Mars, 7e (& 01-45-51-52- second phone line in all rooms for 30), feels more like a luxury boutique Internet access. Its good address will hotel than a budget choice. Flowing 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PARIS FROM $95 A DAY

Impressions Paris is a real ocean. Wander through it, describe it as you may, there will always remain an undiscovered place, an unknown retreat, flowers, pearls, monsters, something unheard of. —Honoré de Balzac

curtains, fabric-covered headboards, the heart of the city, just off place de throw pillows, and cushioned high- la Vendôme. From here, you are only backed seats make each room ideal a 10-minute walk from the Louvre, for a lazy breakfast in bed. With its the Opéra, the Concorde, and the 18th-century ceiling murals and wed- Left Bank. See p. 82. ding-cake plasterwork, Hôtel St- • Best for Travelers with Disabilities: Jacques, 35 rue des Ecoles, 5e (& 01- Little Hôtel, 3 rue Pierre Chausson, 44-07-45-45), offers Second Empire 10e (& 01-42-08-21-57), is one of romance at affordable rates. See p. 102 the only budget hotels in Paris to and 96. offer wheelchair-accessible rooms on • Best for Families: Spacious doubles the ground floor. The hotel is conve- with connecting doors can be found at niently located near the Gare de l’Est Hôtel de , 102 bd. de la Tour and the Canal St-Martin. See p. 84. Maubourg, 7e (& 01-47-05-40-49), • Best Rooms with a View: Would which also features cribs and family- you like to gaze over the city’s friendly management. See p. 100. rooftops while you have your morn- • Best Overall Values: On the Right ing croissants and coffee? Splurge on Bank, Hôtel Little Regina, 89 bd. de a room with a view at the Hôtel du Strasbourg, 9e (& 01-45-37-72-30), Square d’Anvers, 6 pl. d’Anvers, 9e near two of the city’s train stations, (& 01-42-81-20-74), overlooking a offers incredible deals on spacious, leafy park. From its top-floor rooms, recently renovated, and soundproofed you have a view that stretches from rooms that come with new rugs and the Eiffel Tower to Sacré-Coeur. Up furniture, attractive burgundy wallpa- the hill, Hôtel Regyn’s Montmartre, per, ample wardrobe space, full-length 18 pl. des Abbesses, 18e (& 01-42- mirrors, white-oak desks, and brand- 54-45-21), charges a little extra for new bathrooms with shower doors. On the view from its fourth and fifth the Left Bank, Grand Hôtel Lévêque, floors—and it’s entirely worth it. See 29 rue Cler, 7e (& 01-47-05-49-15), p. 83 and 91. boasts a fantastic location on a pedes- • Best Splurge: The Hôtel du Bois, trian-only street, steps from one of the 11 rue du Dome, 16e (& 01-45-00- most charming open-air markets in the 31-96), has it all: a fantastic location city. The clean, well-maintained rooms just off elegant boulevard Victor are soundproofed and come with new Hugo, handsome rooms (with Laura air-conditioning units; rooms on the Ashley fabric, marble bathrooms, fifth floor have balconies with views of cable TV, and hair dryers), peace and the Eiffel Tower. See p. 84 and 99. quiet, and a friendly staff. It’s popular • Best Location: Steps from the Ritz, with the French when they come to Hôtel Mansart, 5 rue des Capucines, the capital to enjoy a dose of metro- 1e (& 01-42-61-50-28), is located in politan life. See p. 90. 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 7

BEST AFFORDABLE RESTAURANT BETS 7 • Best Youth Hostel: In a historic • Best for Serious Shoppers: The mansion on a quiet side street in the Hôtel Chopin, 10 bd. Montmartre, Marais, Youth Hostel le Fauconnier, 9e (& 01-47-70-58-10), is tucked 17 rue de Fauconnier, 4e (& 01-42- away in the Passage Jouffroy shopping 74-23-45), has a pleasant courtyard, arcade. Across the street is the Passage and all rooms have private showers! des Panoramas; , Au Reserve well in advance. See p. 105. Printemps, and other department • Best for Nightlife Lovers: Hôtel stores are only a short walk away. See Beaumarchais, 3 rue Oberkampf, p. 83. 11e (& 01-53-36-86-86), is within • Best Family-Run Hotels: The very walking distance of the city’s three friendly and hard-working Eric and nightlife centers—the Bastille, the Sylvie Gaucheron own and run two Marais, and rue Oberkampf. Air-con- hotels side by side, both highly recom- ditioning and double-glazed windows mended. The Familia Hôtel, 11 rue allow you to sleep late, and the bold des Ecoles, 5e (& 01-43-54-55- color scheme will give you a jolt of 27), and the Hôtel Minerve, 13 rue energy in the morning. See p. 87. des Ecoles, 5e (& 01-43-26-26-04), • Best for a Taste of the Discreet are both excellent values and boast Charm of the Bourgeoisie: The comfortable, lovingly maintained Hôtel Nicolo, 3 rue Nicolo, 16e accommodations, some with hand- (& 01-42-88-83-40), is in the heart painted sepia frescoes and others of one of Paris’s most expensive resi- with exposed beams and tiny balconies dential districts. If you’d like to live in with views of Notre-Dame. See p. 92 gilded surroundings, even on a and 93. budget, you might enjoy the hotel’s traditional French charm. See p. 90.

3 Best Affordable Restaurant Bets • Best Restaurant with a View: In Closer to the hubbub, chic Café good weather, you’ll have one of the Marly, 93 , cour Napo- loveliest views in Paris from an out- leon du Louvre, 1er (& 01-49- door table at the Restaurant du 26-06-60), overlooks I. M. Pei’s glass Palais-Royal, 43 rue Valois, 1er pyramid at the Louvre and has ultra- (& 01-40-20-00-27). The restaurant cushy chairs for sitting back and con- is in the Palais-Royal, so you’ll over- templating architecture, art, and life. look its beautiful, peaceful gardens See p. 146. while dining on fine dishes like • Best Places for a Celebration: If you grilled sole with a garnish of carrots, want a glamorous night on the town, parsley, red pepper, and baby squid. try the infinitely elegant La Butte See p. 117. Chaillot, 110 bis av. Keleber, 16e • Best Cafes with a View: Under the (& 01-47-27-88-88), with its pol- arcades, and facing the lovely place ished glass and leather interior, and des Vosges with its shady chestnut exquisitely prepared dishes that are trees, the Café Hugo, 22 pl. des Vos- fresh, simple, and utterly delectable. ges, 4e (& 01-42-72-64-04), is a See p. 128. great place to while away a summer For something just as chic but a bit afternoon. See p. 146. more trendy, head to Georges, Centre 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PARIS FROM $95 A DAY Pompidou, 6th Floor, rue Ram- a Parisian experience with a splash of buteau, 4e (& 01-44-78-47-99). American literary history, head to This creation of the Costes Brothers Closerie des Lilas, 171 bd. du (of Hotel Costes) is one of the hottest Montparnasse, 6e (& 01-40-51- spots in Paris, with a 360-degree view 34-50). Ernest Hemingway wrote to kill—and its prices are surprisingly The Sun Also Rises here, and in his off reasonable. See p. 121. time he hung out here with John Dos • Most Typical Parisian Bistro: Every Passos. You’ll need reservations. For a Parisian has his or her pick, but change of pace, try the bustling, almost everyone agrees that Charde- bawdy La Tour de Montlhéry, 5 rue noux, 1 rue Jules-Valles, 11e (& 01- des Prouvaires, 1er (& 01-42-36-21- 43-71-49-52), belongs in the top 10. 82), open nonstop from 7am Mon- It’s a small place in an out-of-the-way day to 7am Saturday. It’s known for location, but the food is excellent and huge cuts of excellent meat and good the Art Nouveau setting is gloriously, house wines. Reservations are always eternally Parisian. See p. 125. required. See p. 139 and 116. • Best Modern Bistro: You’ll have to • Best for Mingling with the Locals: book the minute you get to town Parisians are avid bargain hunters, if you want to sample the food at which explains the huge popularity of the almost hopelessly popular Chez moderately priced eateries. On the Casimir, 6 rue de Belzunce, 10e Right Bank, near the Concorde and (& 01-48-78-28-80). It’s worth the the U.S. consulate, L’Escure, 7 rue de trip to this treasure close to the Gare Mondovi, 1e (& 01-42-60-18-91), du Nord, where you’ll find traditional pulls in many of the local businesspeo- French cuisine with a twist in an ani- ple at lunch and residents at dinner. mated setting. See p. 118. On the Left Bank, Bistro Mazarin, 42 • Best for Business Meals: Bofinger, rue Mazarin, 6e (& 01-43-29-99-01), 5–7 rue de la Bastille, 4e (& 01-42- attracts many locals associated with the 72-87-82). It’s one of the prettiest shops or universities around the neigh- restaurants in Paris, with a gorgeous borhood; portions are large and prices domed stained-glass ceiling over the are fair, and there’s a terrace for out- main dining room. It became part of door dining. See p. 116 and 137. the Brasserie Flo chain in 1996, and • Best for Celebrity Spotting: Le the food has never been better. See Relais Plaza, 25 av. Montaigne, 8e p. 121. (& 01-53-67-66-65), at the venera- • Best Brasserie: For a taste of the real ble Hotel Plaza Athenée, has reopened thing, go to Brasserie Ile St-Louis, and regained its place as the most star- 55 quai de Bourbon, 1er (& 01-43- studded and (somewhat) affordable 54-02-59), the last independent eatery. Most recently, John Malkovich brasserie in Paris. Far from the pol- and Tom Hanks were spotted; years ished restaurants that masquerade as ago, it was Marlene Dietrich and true brasseries, this one has as its Jackie Kennedy. See p. 128. heart old Paris. See p. 112. • Best Breakfast: The day sometimes • Best Place for a Late-Night Meal: starts with mealy croissants and watery You can always wander into one of coffee in budget accommodations; if the all-night brasseries along rue you make the effort to come here, Coquillière (on the northern edge of you’ll wish that Angelina, 226 rue de Les Halles) without a reservation. For Rivoli, 1er (& 01-42-60-82-00), was 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 9

BEST AFFORDABLE RESTAURANT BETS 9 next door to your hotel. This Belle • Best Wine Bar: For excellent Rhône Epoque palace with gold-trimmed Valley wines and generous plates of mirrors serves buttery pastries and cold cuts and cheese in a lively little hot chocolate you’ll never forget. See dining room, visit A la Cloche des p. 149. Halles, 28 rue Coquillière, 1er (& 01- • Best Afternoon Tea: For a delightful 42-36-93-89). Cloche means “bell,” timeout during an ambitious day of and the name refers to the bell that sightseeing, head to Mariage Frères, tolled the opening and closing of the 30–32 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4e city’s main market when it was nearby. (& 01-42-72-28-11). The Mariage Some old-market atmosphere survives family entered the trade in 1660, here, including an interesting mix of when Nicolas Mariage began import- people and a high level of conviviality. ing tea from Persia for King Louis It’s a great place for a light, very French XIV. Take your pick from almost 500 lunch. See p. 151. teas in the attractive colonial-style • Best Cafe Food: Although cafes all salon at the back of the shop. See over town serve salads and omelets, p. 150. the staff makes an extra effort at La • Best Sandwiches: Italy is the inspira- Chaise au Plafond, 10 rue Trésor, 4e tion for the focaccia-style bread and (& 01-42-76-03-22), on a side street scrumptious fillings at Cosi, 54 rue in the heart of the Marais. The off- de Seine, 6e (& 01-46-33-35-36). To beat decor—park benches and a ceil- accompany the freshly baked bread, ing painted black and white to you can choose from an assortment of resemble the markings on a cow— specialties, including arugula, moz- attracts a young crowd that delights zarella, Parmesan, Italian ham, roast in the big, fresh salads and thick tomatoes, and tapenade. See p. 137. tartes. See p. 147. • Best Picnic Fare: Two excellent places • Best Foreign Meals: A meal at Le for one-stop shopping are La Grande Manguier, 67 av. Parmentier, 11e Epicerie, Bon Marché, 38 rue de (& 01-48-07-03-27), might be the Sèvres, 7e (& 01-44-39-81-00); and only chance you’ll ever have to try Lafayette Gourmet, 52 bd. Hauss- West African cooking. Among the mann, 9e (& 01-48-74-46-06). The better dishes are chicken yassa with quiche from the Grande Epicerie Alsa- lemons and onions, and requin fumé tian deli counter is a special treat. See (smoked shark), if you’re feeling p. 247. adventurous. This lively place also • Best Spot for a Family Meal: The serves potent, mostly rum-based polite and efficient waiters at Le cocktails and plays African music. Grand Colbert, 2–4 rue Vivienne, At Al Diwan, 30 av. Georges V, 8e 2e (& 01-42-86-87-88), are used to (& 01-47-20-18-17), you can sam- Parisian family gatherings, especially ple delicious, fresh, and affordable on Sunday. This historic landmark Lebanese cuisine just off the Champs- dates back to the 1830s and shim- Elysées. See p. 132 and 125. mers with polished brass, old lamps, • Best Student Hangout: Parisian stu- and frescoes. It’s boisterous and lively, dents have a keen eye for bargains, and children get to be a bit loud skimping on food so they can spend without upsetting the convivial their parents’ money in salsa bars. At atmosphere. See p. 118. Restaurant Perraudin, 157 rue St- Jacques, 5e (& 01-46-33-15-75), in 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PARIS FROM $95 A DAY the heart of the Latin Quarter, stu- Paris, which serves hearty specialties dents and professors get comfortable from Napoleon’s birthplace. See p. 136. home cooking at rock-bottom prices. • Best Deals: The 12€ ($15) two- The 19€ ($24) lunch menu is hearty course lunch menu at Au Trou Nor- enough to see them through an after- mand, 9 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud, noon of classes and an evening of 11e (& 01-48-05-80-23), may be carousing. See p. 136. the city’s best deal. The 22€ ($28) • Best French Regional Restaurants: three-course menu with wine at L’Es- Regional cooking has been enjoying a cure (see above) provides delicious new vogue in Paris. Two of the best French cuisine that you don’t often places to dine in the provinces without see at this price. The 33€ ($41) heav- leaving town are: ChantAirelle, 17 rue enly three-course gourmet menu at Laplace, 5e (& 01-46-33-18-59), to Le Clos du Gourmet, 16 av. Rapp, sample the sturdy fare of the south- 7e (& 01-45-51-75-61), will make central Auvergne region; and Vivario, you want to pinch yourself; no, you’re 6 rue Cochin, 5e (& 01-43-25-08- not dreaming, these prices are real! 19), the oldest Corsican restaurant in See p. 124, 116, and 142.