The Best of Paris from $95 a Day Paris
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05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 3 1 The Best of Paris from $95 a Day Paris is a city of dreams. Its name calls up a parade of images and associations: the Eiffel Tower, the moonlit quais of the Seine, artists, accordions, and clouds of cigarette smoke. What’s surprising is how well the city lives up to its mythic reputation. Though you won’t see Gene Kelly dancing in the streets or run into Leslie Caron at the supermarket, you might actually hear an accordion playing as you stroll through a quiet market square, or see a rainbow arching over Parisian rooftops. The splendid Belle Epoque architecture still surrounds you; around every corner there seems to be yet another photo to be taken or poem to write. Yet Paris is not a museum. Under- neath its velvet gown, it is a vibrant, modern city with its share of problems and annoyances. Still, if you squint your eyes on a rainy night, you might catch a glimpse of the Paris Brassaï photographed decades ago—a mysterious and lovely realm of the imagination. Fortunately, this particular dream is not limited to pashas with bulging bank accounts. Though Paris is notoriously expensive, a little digging will reveal a healthy supply of reasonable hotels and restaurants. If you are willing to venture into street markets and public transportation, you can cut costs dramatically while getting a lit- tle closer to the Parisian’s everyday life. Many of the most impressive sights are free: the majestic sweep of the Champs- Elysées, the quiet grandeur of the place des Vosges, or the leisurely charm of the Jardin du Luxembourg. The city’s magnificent churches are all free; it won’t cost anything to spend an hour beneath the vaulted arches of Notre-Dame. Paris has dozens of afford- able museums, from the mighty Louvre to the tiny doll museum, Musée de la Poupée. Choose your itinerary according to your interests. There’s so much to see; don’t try to do it all. Who cares if you see 35 museums or 13? Take time to sip an espresso or a glass of red wine at an outdoor cafe under the Parisian sky, and allow yourself to get lost down some ancient street where you’ll find the ghost of Balzac, the flash of Yves St-Laurent, and cuisine of Alain Ducasse sharing the same sidewalk view. Paris seduces.COPYRIGHTED Her charm is effusive, yet she wields MATERIAL her power with an iron deter- mination. From the place de la Concorde to the Opera Garnier to the basilica of Sacré-Coeur, she is a living work of art and, like all artists, can be decidedly tempera- mental. But you won’t mind—you’ll even understand—when you sip from her cup, break bread, and fall in love all over again. 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 4 4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PARIS FROM $95 A DAY 1 Frommer’s Favorite Affordable Experiences • Taking an Evening Cruise on the artisans who bring unique and some- Seine. Touristy, but it doesn’t matter. times whimsical style to the historic The monuments that are impressive district. Stroll down rue des Rosiers by day are floodlit at night, and Paris in the heart of the old Jewish quarter, becomes glittering and romantically browse the antiques shops at Village shadowy by turns. Gliding down the St-Paul, and take a break in the tran- river under softly glowing bridges, quil place des Vosges. The bars and with the towers of Notre-Dame cafes on the main streets are lively at against a dark sky and the Eiffel night and during the annual Fierté Tower transformed into a golden web (gay pride) celebration; the side streets of light, is a magical experience— are so quiet, you can hear your foot- until, that is, some visitors decide steps echo in the dark. See chapter 7. that shouting and doing the wave • Tomb-Hopping in Père-Lachaise. under each bridge is the best way to From Chopin to Jim Morrison to assert one’s nationality. Word of Maria Callas, this lush necropolis is a advice: Save the displays for sporting “who used to be who” of famous events. For more information, see Parisians (or famous people who chapter 7. happened to die in Paris), and there’s • Spending a Day at the Musée d’Orsay. no wrong season or weather to visit. It holds the world’s most comprehen- The bare trees of winter lend it a sive collection of Impressionist art, in haunting quality; on rainy days, the addition to pre-Impressionists, post- cemetery is brooding and melan- Impressionists, and neo-Impression- choly; on a summer day, it’s the ideal ists. See the sculptures on the ground place for a contemplative stroll. Best floor, and then head upstairs for a time to visit? November 1, All Saints’ look at the spectacular collection of Day, when flowers decorate the van Goghs, some little-known Gau- tombs. See chapter 7. guins, and a roomful of Toulouse- • Food Shopping, Parisian Style. In Lautrec pastels. You’ll leave refreshed an outdoor neighborhood market, and energized. See chapter 7. you can observe the French indulging • Whiling Away a Weekend After- their passion for meat, dairy, fruit, noon in the Jardin du Luxem- fish, fowl, pâté, cheese, sausage, rab- bourg. Enjoy the sun on your face bit, and unusual animal parts: brains, while you lean back in an iron chair kidneys, veal’s head, tongue, and and watch neatly dressed, perfectly tripe. The merchants know their mannered Parisians of all ages sail toy products and are happy to offer boats, play tennis, ride ponies, and advice and even cooking tips. The take beekeeping classes. Don’t miss markets on rue Mouffetard and rue the working orchards, where fruit is de Buci are the best known; the ones carefully cultivated for the table of on rue Montorgueil and rue Cler the French Senate and for local char- have an equally tempting array of ities. See chapter 7. produce and are less touristy. • Walking through the Marais. • Touring the Arcades. You’ll feel that Sprawling manors built by 17th-cen- shopping has been elevated to high art tury nobles and narrow streets of fairy- when you wander the iron-and-glass- tale quaintness coexist with artists and covered passages that weave through 05_598937 ch01.qxp 11/28/05 3:53 PM Page 5 BEST AFFORDABLE HOTEL BETS 5 the 2e arrondissement. Designed to beach, the high temperatures led to a shelter 19th-century shoppers from number of heat-related fatalities. Air- nasty weather, they now hold shops conditioning is not a given in even the that sell stamps, old books, and dis- more luxe hotels, so keep that in mind count clothing; designer boutiques; when you’re thinking about booking a tea salons; homey brasseries; and even late-summer vacation. a wax museum (Grévin). Exploring • Strolling, Inline Skating, or Biking these picturesque passages is a delight- Along the Canal St-Martin. Immor- ful way to while away a rainy after- talized in the Marcel Carné film noon. See chapter 7. Hôtel du Nord, the canal runs • Watching the Sunset from the Pont through eastern Paris, a part of the des Arts. Behind you are the spires of city tourists rarely visit, which is a Notre-Dame; ahead is the river, with pity. The area closes to vehicle traffic its bridges stretching toward the set- on Sunday, and you can bike, faire le ting sun. On the bridge with you just roller (skate), or scooter past foot- might be a mime or someone dressed bridges connecting the tree-lined as a Louvre statue. See chapter 7. promenades on either side of the • Arriving in August. It’s a month water. You’ll see elderly men dozing when the city is shunned by tourists, in the sun as mothers watch their abandoned by its residents. Even toddlers play. You might even take in parking meters are free. The air begins a “spectacle” such as costumed actors to smell like air again, nightlife takes evoking a Venetian scene on a line of it down a notch, and parks and gar- boats floating past the quartier. The dens are in full bloom. Although whole area relives the low-key tran- many restaurants close, enough quillity of prewar, working-class remain open to give you a good Paris. choice of the local cuisine. The muse- • Dancing in the Streets. On June 21, ums, the banks of the Seine, and the the day of the summer solstice, old neighborhoods are full of their everyone pours into the streets to cel- usual charm, but without the bustle, ebrate the Fête de la Musique, and what’s left is beauty, art, and nature. musicians are everywhere. Although Although summers in Paris rarely the quality varies from don’t-give-up- reach the temperatures of more south- your-day-job to top-rung, it’s exhila- ern climes, 2003 proved to be the rating to join the parties in progress exception with an unprecedented heat in every park, garden, and square. wave. While the city government See “Paris Calendar of Events,” in responded by creating an artificial chapter 2. 2 Best Affordable Hotel Bets • Best for Business Travelers: Ideally impress your French business associ- situated near one of the city’s main ates and show them that you’re malin business districts, the Hôtel des (shrewd). See p. 88. Deux Acacias, 28 rue de l’Arc de Tri- • Best for Romantic Atmosphere: A omphe, 17e (& 01-43-80-01-85) is short stroll from the Eiffel Tower, the a quiet, well-run hotel with a lot of Hôtel du Champ de Mars, 7 rue du amenities for the money, including a Champ de Mars, 7e (& 01-45-51-52- second phone line in all rooms for 30), feels more like a luxury boutique Internet access.