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Press the T+L Guide to Shopping in Paris THE T+L GUIDE TO SHOPPING IN Le Mont St. Michel’s boutique in the Marais neighborhood carries an array of Breton-stripe sweaters. You’ve been to the Louvre, the Tuileries, and the Eiffel Tower. Now it’s time to bring home some of the city’s legendary chic. From the venerable grands magasins and fea markets to the newest purveyors of street style, our experts will lead you to that essential outft or objet you won’t fnd anywhere else. PHOTOGRAPHS BY CÉLINE CLANET TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 63 Sennelier art-supply store. Linens embroidered by hand at Noël. THE ENTHUSIAST’S Commit yourself to going local, jargon that even the fuent may one-of-a-kind, eccentric, or nerdy— need to just point. E. Dehillerin qualities that Paris has in spades. (18-20 Rue Coquillière; PARADISE The fea markets are a natural frst edehillerin.fr), an exhaustive Paris lets you indulge your passions, no matter how out of the ordinary. stop. While on the weekends cooking supply store, displays PARIS SHOPPING SHOPPING PARIS Whether it’s antique maps, exotic spices, or artful graphic novels you connoisseurs with cash to burn go only foor samples of its high- seek, you’ll fnd it for sale here. BY ALEXANDRA MARSHALL north to Les Puces de St.-Ouen ticket wares, so if you want a (marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com ), copper pot so large it could ft a where permanent stalls are flled with small child, you have no choice high-ticket antiques, stylish bargain but to use sign language to PEOPLE COME TO Paris for all the usual reasons: hunters head in the opposite direction request it. Reading French also to explore museums, stroll the banks of the to Les Puces de Vanves (pucesde helps if you want to take full linen in 1883. New Seine, nibble pastries, and haunt bistros. But vanves.fr), at the southern edge of advantage of the country’s Traditions owners took over the according to the informal polls I’ve conducted the 14th Arrondissement. It’s a proper graphic novels, called bandes house of Noël (1 Ave. with visiting friends over the dozen years I’ve Saturday and Sunday fea market with dessinées or bédés, but the of Excellence Pierre Premier de Serbie; lived in France’s capital, above all else they come a far less intimidating degree of artistry of Bastien Vivès’s love With their roots in earlier eras, these noel-paris.com) 110 years to shop. Who can blame them? Paris has been specialization: a joyful jumble of stories, Riad Sattouf’s memoirs, establishments don’t break the mold— later, but the shop still producing world-class design for centuries. Yes, transferware by French producers like and Manu Larcenet’s goofy they made the mold. BY JOSHUA LEVINE draws on the 13,000 many of the city’s signature goods have become Sarreguemines or Saint-Amand, fur odysseys have a pull beyond patterns in its archives for From left: Les Puces de St.-Ouen, one of available outside France, reducing the urgency coats, wartime maps, and stentorian language. Good selections are its exquisite collections. the city’s famous to buy them at the source. But this hasn’t oil portraits, all from sellers eager to at Album (67 Blvd. St.-Germain; The 150,000 fea markets; rendered the city’s offerings any less desirable— clear off their tables by morning’s end. albumcomics.com ), in the Latin ANY PARISIAN WHO has The word chemisier, woodblocks at Zuber vintage Louis Vuitton luggage at it’s just made it more of an adventure to sniff On weekdays, go to the Ninth, where Quarter, and Opéra BD (2 Rue put brush to canvas has or shirtmaker, was & Cie.’s factory, in the the market. out the stuff you can’t get elsewhere. the basement level of the accessible, des Tournelles; operabd.com), likely bought paints at coined for Joseph- Alsatian town of Rixheim, often quirky auction house Drouot in the Marais. You can simply Sennelier (3 Quai Christophe Charvet, are classifed as French (9 Rue Drouot; drouot.com) is loaded follow your nose at Épices Voltaire; magasin who opened the world’s historical monuments. with antique medals, handbags, and Roellinger (51 bis Rue Ste.-Anne; sennelier.net). Well, since frst shirt store in 1838. The frm has been using enough wine to fell an army. These are epices-roellinger.com), the 1887 anyway, which is Charvet (28 Place them since 1797 to print less glamorous realms than beautifully Second Arrondissement spice when chemist and Vendme; charvet.com) panoramic landscapes— curated boutiques like Montaigne emporium of chef Olivier colorist Gustave has made shirts for Brazilian jungles, Market (18 Ave. Matignon; montaigne Roellinger, whose roasted cumin Sennelier opened his such notables as Swiss mountains—on market.com), in the Eighth, or the seeds, Madagascar vanilla, and shop just across from the Baudelaire, Churchill, wallpaper. Stroll by the Broken Arm (12 Rue Perrée; the-broken- buckwheat butter cookies are Louvre. Former clients and Gary Cooper. Paris showroom (36 Rue arm.com), in the Marais. But no one some of the easiest gifts to pack. include Picasso, The Noël family Bonaparte; zuber.fr) to back home will have anything you It would be a crime against Cézanne, and Degas. began embroidering pick up a roll or two. walk away from Drouot with. the country to leave without Paris is a hobbyist’s dream. If you Breton stripes, which the French have a love of cooking or comics, you’ll really do wear, constantly. fnd more here than you ever could on Le Mont St. Michel (96 Rue Vieille- Amazon. It helps if you speak French, du-Temple; lemontsaintmichel.fr) though sales staff on the geekier ends uses heirloom knitting of the shopping spectrum use so much techniques to fashion Wes I GREW UP IN St.-Germain-des-Prés, where the flagship of my grandmother’s clothing label, Sonia Rykiel (175 Blvd. St.-Germain; Andersonesque separates for soniarykiel.com), is located. The neighborhood is still one of my men and women, for sale at its favorite places to shop. One of my go-to spots is Moss (22 Rue Marais boutique. While you will de Grenelle; 33-1-42-22-01-43), an under-the-radar shoe bou- pay a wee bit more there, it’s tique that stocked brands like Golden Goose and Gianvito Rossi worth it. But really, some of the a decade before anyone else. Sabbia Rosa (73 Rue des Saints- Pères; 33-1-45-48-88-37) makes delicate, colorful undergar- THE INSIDER best sailor shirts in town are at ments in silk and lace. Three generations of women in my family Monoprix (multiple locations; LOLA have shopped for jewelry at the atelier of Marie-Hélène de Taillac monoprix.fr), the local BURNSTEIN (8 Rue de Tournon; mariehelenedetaillac.com). I have a pink equivalent of Target, where RYKIEL sapphire ring she designed that I adore. At Pharmacie du Four Owner of Le Chocolat Bonaparte (26 Rue du Four; 33-1-46-33-20-81), you can find almost anyone can afford to French beauty staples from brands like Avène and Rogé ILLUSTRATION BY MAY PARSEY PARSEY MAY BY ILLUSTRATION bring back multiples. Noir Public Relations Cavaillès at crazy low prices. TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 65 Balibaris RUE DE LANCRY QUAI DE VALMY NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE Medecine Douce Oxbow RUE DE MARSEILLE Hircus Centre Commercial CANAL RUE YVES OUT DCI Make My Lemonade ST.-MARTIN THE INSIDER PARIS SHOPPING SHOPPING PARIS Small, independent stores have been opening all over REIREP AU AE E U BR DANIEL this bohemian quarter, transforming it into a dynamic RUE DIEU BOULUD shopping destination. BY LINDSEY TRAMUTA Chef and restaurant owner MY WIFE loves tea. You can find Mariage Frères in many places these days, but they have a unique blend CENTRE MEDECINE DOUCE MAKE MY LEMONADE at their salon in the Fourth COMMERCIAL At this boutique and With its pastel pink- Arrondissement (35 Rue du This multi-label atelier, jeweler Marie and-green interior, this Bourg-Tibourg; mariage boutique, founded Montaud crafts an is the first brick-and- freres.com). We bring hot by the owners of ever-rotating line of mortar shop from chocolate from Angelina sustainable shoe sleek accessories, designer Lisa Gachet, (226 Rue de Rivoli; brand Veja, specializes from gold-plated brass whose penchant for angelina-paris.fr) back to in colorful, casual hoop earrings with vibrant prints and New York—our kids adore it. clothing for men and chiseled metal beads retro fashions has La Chambre aux Confitures women, including to ultrathin rings in earned her a following (multiple locations; labels like Saint James, 18-karat gold dotted online. 61 Quai de lachambreauxconfitures. Roseanna, and with diamonds or pre- Valmy; makemy com) sells its own wonderful Common Projects. cious stones. 10 Rue lemonade.com. seasonal fruit jams, as well as 2 Rue de Marseille; de Marseille; bijoux honey and a range of choco- centrecommercial.cc. medecinedouce.com . HIRCUS late spreads. La Bovida (36 Think of this as the Rue Montmartre; labovida. Everlane of Paris: com) is like a huge super- luxurious garments— market for cooking supplies. including grade-A It’s where I used to go as a Mongolian-cashmere young chef to see all the tops, sweaters, and new equipment. jackets for men and women—at reason- able prices, made using transparent production methods. 29 Rue Beaurepaire; hircus.fr. BALIBARIS OXBOW With timeless cuts and France’s leading brand well-made fabrics, this of surf clothing now menswear label strad- has a flagship, with dles everyday apparel wet suits, swimsuits, and business casual in and accessories for a subdued, classically stand-up paddle- Parisian color palette.
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