Make Your Own Hats

MA " E " OUR OWN HATS

Tm , GENE ALLEN MARTIN

DIRECTOR OF DOMESTIC ARTS DEPARTMENT OF

THE MINNEAPOLIS DES IGNER DEMONSTRATO , R AND INSTRUCTOR IN MILLINERY

ILLUSTRATED B"

E. E. MARTIN

BOSTON AND NEW " OR" HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPAN"

m) " am using press etambtiuge 1921

FOREWORD - HAT MA" ING i s an art whi ch m ay be acquired by

n ss s an di a y one patience d or nary ability . "po e sing To make a hat for the trade is not as difﬁcult as to make one for an individual ; neithe r is it so high x a phase of art.

hIan l - y ru es are given for crown height, brim

W to f idth, and color, as being suited dif erent types i of faces, but they are so often mislead ng that it

’ nl fe w be com seems best to consider o y a , since the ing ne ss of a hat almost invariably depends u pon minor characteristics of the individual for which

r the e are no rules . A girl or wom an with auburn hair may wear

— - ea l s nk a grays gray g reen, cr m co or, almon pi ; touch of henn a with gold or orange ; mulberry if the eyes are dark . The woman with dark hair and blue or dark

eyes may wear any color if the skin is clear . One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin m may ﬁnd golden brown, a pale yellow or crea

— ~ c olor becoming possi bly a m u lberry if just the r sl ight de pth . A hat with ightly drooping brim vi FOREWORD

faced with some shade of rose will add color to the

o u l cheeks . N reds sho d be worn unless the skin

N of or li is clear . o shade purple he otrope should - be worn by any one having blue eyes it seems to make the blue paler .

A ne l s ny o having auburn hair, b ue eye , and a i s clear sk n may wear browns, grays, green , tan, blue, and black . Black should not be worn next

nl . I the face u ess the skin is brilliant t is , however, m very beco ing to blondes , and to women whose hair has u i become q te white. A black hat is almost a necessity in every wom ’ e o an s wardrobe, and it may always be made b c m ing by using a facing of some color which is espe — ci ally becoming to the wearer black and whi te is always a smart combination, but very difﬁcu lt to l hand e . — In regard to lines it i s known that a hat with a drooping brim takes from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having round

or shoulders a short neck . A hat turned up at the back would be much better . A narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer . A woman

-u with a short, turned p nose should avoid a hat FOREWORD vii

c turned up too sharply from the fa e . Short people

should avoid very wide brims . For the possessor o f a very full, round face the high crown and nar

or row brim, a brim which turns up sharply against

one s or the crown on ide, all around, should prove

u l becoming . A tall, slender woman wo d do well to

wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keep

one t of ing with her height . There is s yle hat

u nl which seems to be, with various modiﬁcations ,

ve rs all 18 y becoming, and that the bicorne, a form

o f the Napoleon style of hat . A W fter all, experience is the best teacher . hen

l one ever a hat is found to be especia ly becoming, would do well to ﬁnd ou t just why it is so and

o f o . make a note the c lor, size , and general outline These notes are of value if kept for future refer

e enc , whether hats are to be made for the shop or i for home mill nery .

m wa A hat is seldom beco ing all the y around, but O - the aim should be to make it so . ver ornamenta tion should be guarded against , also too close har mony in color until much experience has been

of in gained . A rule by which to judge the becom g ness of a hat and to which there i s no exception is viii FOREWORD

— ou this the hat must enhance your looks . If y do n not look more pleasing with it o than with it off , it is not as good a model for you as it might be . In planni ng or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors and outlines which are an

outward expression of ourselves . A hat, as well as

o f s any article clothing, may expre s many things

dejection, happiness , decision, indecision, gayety,

or dignity, graciousness, a trained an untrained

s mind , forethought, reﬁnement, genero ity, cruelty,

o r . H ow we one s a recklessness often hear some y, " l "" That hat looks just ike Mrs . Blank Clothing o f any kind is an index to the pe rsonali ty of the

wearer . A friend once said in my presence to a " who was ll saleswoman trying to se her a hat, But I do not fe e l like that hat " The saleswoman re " ’ i it— ou pl ed, That s just y refuse to buy it because not e e l you do f like it, while I tell you that it is i most becom ng . A ll of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most remote idea o f what

w as meant, and had a total lack of understand

mg. s hou ld o f Clothes be a matter feeling, and this s ame feeling is something vital and shou ld be ca FOREWORD ix te re d to if our garments are to help se t ou r spirits

h l we free . W y shou d wear anything which is mis leadi ng in regard to ourselves " Let us look in the mi rror each day and ask ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are . It is important in planni ng a hat to see it in broad dayli ght as well as under artiﬁcial light . It should also be tried on in a good light while s tand

n be i g before a mirror, as a hat which may seem c mi di o ng while sitting may not be so while stan ng, with the whole ﬁgure taken into consideration . ’ To m e own ak one s hats , using up old materials, stimu l ates originality and gives opportunity for expression . It is am azing to see how many new ideas are born when we start out to do something i which we have thought qu te impossible . It all ’ to z helps give added est to life . Making one s own hats appe als to the constructive instinct of every

t of woman aside from the mat er thrift, which shou l d always be taken into consideration . Some " w an I m one will say, I ould not wear y hat ight " m e . H ow w u n ak often have e worn becoming hats ,

i on poor in workmanship , bes des paying some e handsomely for the privilege . Let us try to form x FOREWORD

s ome standard by which to judge of the worth of a ’ hat instead of the maker s name . a Before making hat , the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over to see with what the hat

of must be worn, and the kind service we are going E to expect from it . very article of a costume

ou t should be related and harmonious as to color,

l . ine, and suitability The result should be a perfect

o whole without a single discord . How ften we see - a green skirt, mustard colored coat, and a bright — t blue hat each ar icle pleasing by itself, but atro ciou s when worn collectively. Bright, gay little hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon

o f ne tire o if it must be worn daily . Time and ou r best thought are well Spent in plan ning ou r apparel . The proper clothing gives us c - o f oth onﬁdence and self respect, and the respect

dr ers . To be well essed is to be free from the

e thought o f clothes . W judge and are judged by the clothes we wear— they are an outward expres

for u s sion of ourselves , and speak , while we must remain silent . " — Simplicity is the keynote of beauty no one article of clothing should stand ou t too cons picu FOREW ORD xi h a

u nl s . Nat o sly, u ess it i the hat ure uses bright

s ou color sparingly . If y look at a plant, you ﬁnd it dark near the ground, growing lighter near the top with its green leaves , and then the blossom ;

to E the glory is at the p . verything in nature

e l k u l t aches us to oo p. So the hat shou d be the

of o f crowning glory a costume, the center interest, and should receive the most careful attention as to

mi and . beco ngness, suitability, workmanship

CONTENTS

I. EQU IPMENT AND MATERIALS

II CO F AM E WI H E VET . VERING R T V L

III. FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE

IV W A . IRE FR MES

V. ROU ND CROWN or WIRE

~ VI H . AT COVERINGS

- VIII. HAND MADE FLOWERS

REMODELI AND RE OVATI I" . NG N NG

ILLUSTRATIONS

- SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON WIRE

BRACES BASTED IN PLACE

SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BR IM

SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE

READ" To SEW IN PLACE

VAR IOU S PR OCESSES

FANC" CROWN-TIP OF BRAID

RO LLING WIRE BRIM

ROU ND CROWN OF WIRE

ONE METHOD OF STARTING TH E BRAID ON CR OWN AN D SEWING IN PLACE - SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO INCH

WIDE BIAS SATIN

RIBBON TRIMM INGS

HAND-MADE FLOWERS

MA" E " OUR OWN H ATS

CHAPTER I

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS

EQUIPMENT Thim ble Thread Needles Tape-measure Pins ’ Tailor s chalk or pencil

’ Milliner s pli ers or wire cutters

Scissors , large and small Paper for patterns — Thim ble good quality

Thre ad— G l r eneva lustre, b ack and white, numbe

36 . Colored thread as needed . — m i ’ l 8 N e e dle s assorted paper of lliner s need es, 1 to 0 . - — T ape m e as u re o f good quality sateen . ’ — Tailor s chalk white and dark blue .

’ l e r li e rs— not M il in s p pliers which ﬁt the hand, too

o heavy, with blunt points, and sharp enough t

cu t a thread . 2 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

MATERIALS USED TO MA" E H AT FRAMES

F abri cs Buckram Crinoline Cape net N e te e n or Fly net W illow plate

Wi re s Cable Frame or brace wire Lace Tie Ribbon Sprung Pape r for patte rns Heavy manila

BUCKRAM - Comes in black and white, about twenty seven

—a f on ne inches wide heavy sti f material, smooth o

and on side rather rough the other . It is more com mou ly used for hat foundations than any other m fabric . There is also a su mer buckram, lighter

s in weight and mooth on both sides .

4 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

d Must be dampened before using . Not recommende for amateurs .

w W IRE comes in black, hite, silver, and gilt, and is covered with cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk .

It may be procu red in single and double bolts .

n Largest wire used in millinery . In maki g wire

frames , it is used as edge wire and sometimes for

the entire frame . Being larger than frame wire , it makes a pleasing effect when used as part o f the

wire frame design, if it is to be covered with sheer

material .

FRAM E 0 B BRACE WIRE Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge

o f all buckram and fabric hat frames . LACE

Smaller than frame wire , used for wiring lace rib

and bon and ﬂowers , sometimes for making an e n

w a tire frame hen very dainty design is desired .

TIE

Smallest wire used in m illinery ; comes wound on

MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 5

spools . Is used to tie other wires , and in making - i hand made ﬂowers . Comes n black, white, and green .

RIBBON A cotton ribbon about three eighths o f an in ch wide, with a ﬁne wire woven through the center, also

on a wire each edge . Used to wire ribbons .

SPRUNG An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims ; is sometimes sewed on edge o f buckram or other

brIm s u n or fabric , if the hat is usually wide, if a ff brim is to be especially sti . It is occasionally s used as an edge wire on wire frame .

H AT FRAMES OF FABRIC

e x e r MUCH care, thought, and patience must be ci se d i in mak ng the frame o f any hat . It is the i foundation upon which we bu ld, and if poorly made

u n of no amo t work can cover it up later . A hat must be right every step of the way . The frame is

r the ﬁ st step , and so the most important . The simplest hat to make is the straight brim s r ailor with a squa e crown, covered with velvet . a m il Such odel we w l take up at ﬁrst. 6 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

SAILOR H AT FRAME

For convenience w e will u se the following dim e n

" o f sions Width brim, three inches ; height of

- o f crown, three and one half inches ; length crown

one - tip , eight and half inches ; Width of crown tip ,

one - he adsize - six and half inches , and , twenty four inches .

PATTERN FOB BRIM

Cut from a piece o f manila paper fourteen and - - one half by fourteen and one half inches the largest

possible circle ; the paper may be folded into halves, then quarters , then into eighths and creased A round brim will not be of equal width all

he adsize he adsi ze around from wire, because the

wire must be oval to ﬁt the head . The front and back will both be about an inch narrower than the

sides .

H EADSIZE WIRE

M AS — hi s To E URE T is especially important , for upon the accuracy of this measurement depe nds the

comfort o f the wearer ; this is the fou ndation wire . Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 7 where the hat is to rest and add two inches to this

O for the t measure . ne is lapping ends and the o her inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which 1 goes up into the he adsi ze . - As ou r he adsize measure is twenty four inche s

o f -Si x l u long, cut a piece frame wire twenty ches long ; this allows for the two inches just mentioned . Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie 2 one —no o wire . Wire always laps inch m re, no less .

TOSHAPE— W s ith the hands in ide , pull the circle

he adsi ze until it is elongated to ﬁt the head . This wire must not press unduly upon any part of the head . — To LOCATE H EAD SIZE ON PATTERN Lay pattern

ﬁat he adsiz e on , pin wire pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front of

m of o f o f bri equal width, and the two sides brim

he adsize equal width . Mark all around wire with a - pencil . Remove Wire and cut paper one half inch inside this mark . — To CU T BUCKRAM BRIM L ay pattern on smooth

of side buckram, pin, and cut the edges very

1 To cu t w Se e h t r IV ire c ap e . 3 To ti e wi re se e ch apter IV. 8 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

he adsize . smoothly. Cut same as pattern Mark location o f center back and center front . Remove pattern and with a hot iron press the buckram per

e ctl ﬁat or f y , being careful not to break make a s harp bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily repaired . — To SEW H EADSIZE WIRE To BRIM First note the

k i s relation of he adsize wire to brim . If buc ram

u on one - caref lly cut , the wire may be pinned half inch from edge . The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance o f a round hat when worn and on of he adsize yet, account the oval wire, the brim when ﬁnished will measure about three and one-half inches on each side and about two and one half inches back and front . Pin wire on smooth

o f la side buckram with p at center back , also pin front and each side, being careful not to lose the

of he adsize shape the wire . Bring needle up from

of i under side brim close to W re, beginning at lap . Take stitch over wire to under side coming back through ﬁrst stitch to right side . Take next stitch

one - over wire fourth inch from ﬁrst, coming back to w right side . Repeat all the ay around until lap is reached . Fasten thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in order to j oin

1 0 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS — To COVER EDGE WIRE A ll edge wire must be cov ered wi th crinoline or a cheap muslin . Cut a strip

a - Of such goods on a true bi s , three eighths of an R s t inch wide . emove the selvage and retch the

strip . Bind the edge wire with it , holding it very tight . Sew close to wire using a stab stitch .

— RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE

This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a short back stitch on wrong

one - side . Lap ends of crinoline fourth inch at ﬁnish ,

but do not turn ends under .

S QUAR E CROWN

A one or one square crown is having a ﬂat top , S only slightly rounded, with the sides slightly loping

to o f in towards the p. A crown this type three or - three and one half inches in height would be at least - one and one half inches smaller at the top than at

the bottom . Any crown made separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the h e adsize

a wire on the brim at the b se . To eliminate any

slashes or seams in the side crown , a paper pattern i should be made . Following parag raphs expla n

how this is done . MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

PA TTERN FOR SLA N TING SIDE CROWN - Cut a piece of mani la pape r one fourth inch — wider than crown height and one half inch longe r

z than he adsi e wire measure . Slash across this paper

on e - in four equally distant places , within fourth

of inch of edge bottom, then lap slashes at top a li -u r or ttle more than one fo th inch , about enough - to take ou t about one and on e half inches . Pin

o f one - c slashes . Lap ends paper fourth in h and

on pin together . Place this pattern brim with j oin

on ing at back and pin to upturned slashes brim .

Try on to s e e if any alterations are necessary. It c an be decided at this point and changes made

e o o should the crown b t sloping or too straight . An amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of li nes and curves that are becoming . Remove patt ern from brim and cut off from top and

i on bottom any irregular ties the edge .

To CU T SIDE CROWN FROM BUCKR AM R i emove the p ns from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain . Lay pattern ﬂat on smooth side o f of ad buckram, lengthwise the material to take vantage of the natural roll . Cut close to pattern ;

- ﬁne one r . lap the ends fou th inch Sew, using a 1 2 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS back stitch close to each edge ; this makes two rows

o f o f stitching . Sew a piece frame wire to top and

n n a . bottom of side crown , keepi g all j oi ing at b ck

U s e same method as in sewing edge wire on brim .

Cover both wires with crinoline .

CROWN TIPS The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or o f f it may be made buckram, producing a stif f e fect . Both methods will be given . — S OFT CROWN TIP First shape side crown to ﬁt

he adsize on lli . wire brim , which will be an e pse Cut

o f o f piece crinoline, the exact shape the crown , plus one ff inch all around . Pin this over top , pu ing it a

li se w very ttle, and with stab stitch close under

e -u wire . Cut surplus material off to on fo rth inch .

T FF O T P MAD K AM—L a S I CR WN I , E OF BUC R y top o f side crown on smoo th side of buckram and mark

one - the shape with a pencil . Cut buckram half

o f . N inch outside this mark ext, in order to fold f down this sti f crown tip , it will be necessary to - cut, from this half inch of buckram outside the pen

- one cil line, small wedge like pieces , about inch Pin s apart . Cut them close to the line drawn . thi MAKE YOUR O WN HATS 1 3

piece on top of crown, press ﬂaps down and sew on with stab stitch .

CROWN s

If a roun d crown is to be used it is advisable to - buy a ten cent separate crown or a frame with a

re round crown . If an entire frame is purchased , move the crown and wire its bottom edge . After some ski ll has been acquired by the student of mil line r of y, a round crown fabric may be blocked by

W r hand over a ire c own .

To COVER ROUND CROWN

on o f Pin material top crown with bias at front . Pull with the straight of the material and pin just - below edge of curve . Sew one half inch below this

off with stab stitch, trim material close under this

. o stitching Remove pins . Fit a bias piece f mate

for rial, using same method and measurements as side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown cov ll ering . Pu this bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place . Finish top and bottom of this band by turning the edges over a wire . Use same 1 t as o f on s itch in ﬁnishing edge facing brim . This

1 Se e ch apte r II . 1 4 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS makes a neat ﬁnish for a hat which will demand m diffi little tri ming . If the amateur ﬁnds it too

o f wa cult to finish the bottom a side crown in this y, the edge may be covered with a fold o f material or a narrow ribbon ; the top may also be finished by a w h narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly it a wire should be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places . CHAP TER II

CO VERING FRAME W ITH VELVET - MATERIAL re qu 1re d one and one half yards milli ’ - ner s velvet or any velvet eighteen-to twenty four hi s inches wide . If velvet used is t rty six inche wide, one yard will be sufﬁcient .

To COVER BRIM Place corner of velvet at front of br1m on top

Ed e wi re he adsize r side "smooth side) . g and wi e

n o i should always be o top f br m . Turn velvet over

edge of brim and pin . Stick pins through at right s i angle to br m to avoid marring the velvet . Pin

all of m ate ri al closely around edge brim, pulling

to with the thread remove any fullne ss . Do not

1m im pull tight enough to bend the br . Tr velvet - tu as l Off one fourth inch to rn under brim . B te c ose

t o he adsi ze on V e wire top with stab stitch . Cut lvet

ou t of he ads1ze e inside Wire, l aving a half inch to S r lash and turn up with the buck am .

To SEW VELVET EDGE To BRIM This should be done with a close Overcasting 1 6 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

stitch on the under side , being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet . It is some times advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in from the edge about one-fourth inch i with the sewing machine, using a long stitch . Th s stitching may then be used to put the needle through when sewing the velvet down . If the velvet seems - thick and heavy looking on under side after sewing, it may be pressed down with a hot iron . If done li l quickly and ghtly, it wi l not show on the right side .

To FACE UNDER SIDE OF BRIM

on Pin velvet under side, using same method in

nn as pi ing that on top of brim . This must be

off pinned very carefully. Cut velvet all around

li s s ne - edge, leaving a ttle le than o fourth inch to turn under . Facings are usually ﬁnished at the edge with a wire . Cut a piece of frame wire the

C u of exact irc mference the brim , plus one inch for lap . Bend to shape o f brim and pin under edge o f R t velvet, beg inning at the center back . oll velve over wire and bring out to edge . Pin in place all

wa n the y around before beg in ing to sew . Placc pins in at right angles to brim . A piece of velvet

MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 1 7 held in the left hand will prevent ﬁnger marks from

V showing on the elvet . Begin to sew at left of wire

OIm n e s j g , while holding undersid of brim toward you . Bring needle through from back close under

W o f wire . ith the head the needle press velvet along under wi re to make a crease or sort of bed for the - thr ead of the next stitch . Take nearly a half inch stitch by placing needle close under th e wire and coming through between the wire and the upper

the facing . Come back under Wire with a very small l back stitch, being carefu to adjust the wire as you s e w o f e , and to catch a little the upp r covering with

. W each back stitch hen wire joining is reached, treat the lapped ends as one wire . Fasten ends se curely by taking several small back stitches . Lace n Wire, bei g smaller than frame wire , is sometimes used to ﬁnish the edge o f facing . It does not look

di f b e as heavy, but is somewhat more ﬁcult for a ginner to handle .

To COVER CROWN TOP

o v ou t o f the T co er the top , a piece velvet with

s bias at the front, same shape as top of crown plu

on e - one inch all around . Gather fourth inch from

o li z edge, place over t p, equa e the gathers , pin in 1 8 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

place, and sew with stab stitch over line of gather

as do ing . Make the edge lie as ﬂat possible and not draw velvet too tight across the top .

To COVER SIDE CROWN

Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one half inches wider than height of crown . Pin this strip wrong side ou t around side crown to ﬁnd length and to locate seam . Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight o f material with warp thread .

"W arp thread is parallel with selvage . ) Remove velvet and stitch seam . Open it and press by draw ing it over the edge of a hot iron.

To SEW CROWN ON BRIM

The simplest way to proceed is to s e w the crown o n the brim before adjusting the side crown cover

. o f ing Pin back , front, and each side crown to

. u brim, placing seams at back Sew through p - turned ﬂaps o f brim and crown one fourth inch t from bottom wire . Stre ch the velvet strip for

n u n side crow on the crown , placing seam at back , less trimming has been planned which will cover the

i s seam better if it placed at some other point . Turn top and bottom edges under to ﬁt the side crown, MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 1 9

and press bottom fold down close to brim . If this d ban has been ﬁtted tight enough, it will not be

found necessary to sew it .

EDG O M FA F S D T O T E F BRI CING, WHEN INI HE WI H U WIRE A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may ni m m also be ﬁ shed underneath without a , the edges

li titche s s d . being p together In this case, the under - fac ing would be turned u n der one four th inch and pinn ed in place all the way around before beginn i ng

e to s w . Bring the needle through from underside f of facing to the very edge of fold . Place point o needl e di rectly opposite this stitch and take a small

stitch in upper facing, then take a small stitch in underfacing . Each stitch always begins just oppo s o f ite the ending preceding stitch , so that the thread between the two facings cro sses the seam at right angles to edge of brim . This method makes the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out o f o f ni place ; however, this style ﬁ shing an edge is not popular an d requires much practice .

To COVER NARROW BRIM SAILOR WITHOUT AN EDGE

This method can be used satisfactorily only when 20 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

an l . or the brim is narrow, d the fabric pliab e F convenience we will give measurements as for a

ne - i two and o half inch brim, ﬂat sa lor, outside edge

o f measuring forty inches . Cut a bias piece velvet w forty inches long and seven inches ide . Fold this velvet through center leng thwise and sti ck pins every three inches through edge of fold at right

angles to edge and close to edge . This is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the I brim . f the velvet is not placed evenly, there will be found a g reater amount o f fullness on one side than on the other . Place velvet over the brim and

n as pin o edge at points marked by pins . Stretch

O o tight as possible . n a brim f this width all of the fullness should be worked out . If this is found to ffi be very di cult, lay the brim aside, with the velvet

on h or pinned , for an our for overnight, and the R velvet will be found to give a little more . emove

. e as much of the length as possible Locate seam, r

s e w move from frame, seam, and replace as before .

on he adsize w i Sew top close to wire, ork ng out all the fullness possible ; pull under part up into head

e - size . Sew on fourth inch above he adsi ze wire onto

1 u l the ﬂaps , be ng careful not to p l the thread too

he adsize z tight or the wire will be reduced in si e . MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 21 FACINGS A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using

’ n a colored underfacing o a black hat . The entire facing may be o f a contr asting color or extend only from he adsi ze wire to within an inch of the edge of

he o f t brim . In this case there could be a strip m aterial the same as upper facing an inch and a half

f he wide ﬁnished at the edge o t brim with a wire . Then the colored facing would be ﬁni shed over the

of edge this with another wire .

BRIM S COVERED WITH TW O KINDS OF FABRIC A ﬂat brim or mushroom shape is often covered

o f by using two fabrics , which may be the same c or of s o f old olor contrasting colors . Small piece material may often be conserved in this manner and

or in the hat at the same time have much charm . F

of stance, the edge the hat could have a bias band

two or of satin, more inches wide, stretched around

of of cov the edge the brim, with the rest the brim ered with velve t overlapping the satin and ﬁni shed

t on or on one wi h a wire both top and bottom, only side . Underside o f brim may be ﬁnished the same wa y, or the facing may be brought out even with ni the edge and ﬁ shed with a wire . 22 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

SHAPED BRIM FOUNDATION

The simplest s hape d brim is the mushroom style .

To MAKE PATTERN FOR BRIM Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight

h e adsize brim sailor . Measure the same for the w th e ire, join ends of wire, shape to ﬁt head , and

To pin on paper pattern o f any desired width . make the brim droop , slash the pattern from the edge to the he adsi ze wire in four different places - equally distant . Lap these slashes one fourth inch at the edge, and pin . The pattern may also be ff slashed in eight or more di erent places if desired , the slashes being adjusted by lapping more o r less accordi ng to the amount of droop which may be becoming . A fter the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark with a pencil all around just inside the h e adsize

Wire . Remove the wire and cut the paper on this l ine . Cut pattern in two at back and lay out ﬂat o n smooth side of buckram, leaving pins in slashes . - Cut close to outside edge and allow one fourth inch for the lap at ends . Mark on buckram with pencil - close to he adsi ze line and cut one half inch inside - this mark . Lap ends one fourth inch and backstitch

241 MAKE YOUR O WN HATS

SHEER MATERIALS

In covering with anything as sheer as georgette , it is advisable to line with some other material ﬁrst . The color could be made deeper by using a lining li n o f the same color, or made paler by ing with d white . The lining should be ﬁtte and sewed on l with the outside materia .

- PATTERN FOR H AT WITH ROLLED OR CLOSE FITTING BRIM

The pattern for any hat is ﬁrst cut from a ﬂat

of he adsize piece paper . The is marked as for ﬂat d i n s ailor and the he a s ze wire pinned o . The pat tern is then slashed in to he adsize wire from the out

s s n . I ide edge, the slashe lapped over and pi ned f the hat is to be rolled more closely on one side than f on the other, the greater number o slashes must be

ad placed there . In this way the pattern can be

justed to any desired shape . It is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern through in the

ou t back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay flat on hi another piece of paper for a new pattern . T s elim i nates some of the slashes and makes fu rther as - experiments e ier . Pattern making is very impor MAKE YOUR O WN HATS 25 ta of e e nt , and it is xtrem value to m ake as many patterns as possible before cutting the foundation n i fabric . Cha ging a pattern the slightest somet mes makes a great deal of difference in its becomingness . Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or 1n or two the buckram, by inserting a V shape to give more flare, but the fewer seams the better for A e -fi tin br1m the hat frame. roll d or close t g is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom s hape . - To COVER A CLOSE FITTING OR ROLLED BRIM

Place corner of material on top of brim at front and on A pin the edge . lways use the same method ni on of pin ng the edge as given i n the ﬁrst lesson . D raw the material down to the he ad size wire and pin . Work the material out smoothly toward the

in he dsi e left and p at the edge ; also at the a z wire .

Then proceed in the same way toward the right,

ni c su r always pin ng losely. Be e to keep the mate rial tight and smooth both at edge and at the head s WIre ize . Allow the fullness to go where it will .

The seam should be located at the center back . Cu t away all superﬂuous material, allowing three s am n eighths of an inch e at the center back . Tur 26 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS the raw edges under away from each other at the

seam and slipstitch together neatly .

To SLIPSTITCH SEAM

Bring needle through edge o f fold on one side and enter the needle through edge of fold on other

a side exactly opposite . Slip needle long in this fold on e - h eighth of an inch , t en bring the needle through to the edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth o f an inch long in the fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly opposite the end of the one precedi ng . Try to cut the mate rial out from inside the he adsize wire in one piece E i so that it may be used for something else . xam ne the material carefully to make sure that it ﬁts per

ct fe ly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the head size wire ou the outside ; remove all pins as soon as

. A possible fter basting this , you will sometimes ﬁnd that the material needs a little more adjusting at the - edge . Turn the velvet over the edge one fourth inch

se w and down with an overcasting stitch .

TO GLUE VELVET TO TH E BRIM W i hen there is a decided roll to a brim , it s MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 2 7 sometimes most difficult to keep the velvet smoo th and to make it lie close to the brim, so we resort

’ lli u s e m i . to ner s glue Do not glue on satin, or on

n or any fabric thin er than velvet, on any frame other than buckram . Care should always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram o n top whe n the velvet is to be glued on . After ﬁtting the velvet carefully and sewing the

a se m in the back , remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the h e adsi ze where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the buckram . The glue must be spread very l even y. It will make a neater job to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further . Be very c areful to keep the glue away from the right side o f . N on the velvet ext, rub the glue the frame with

f brash t a sti f until it is smooth, hen spread the velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it with the hands from the he adsize wire out . W atch it carefully for any places which have not sufficient glue, as the material may be raised before it is dry

d not and more glue adde . Do sew the edge until the glue has dried . Usually it is only the material

‘ on the upper side o f the brim which needs gluing Th . e down facing may be put on as desired . Some 2 8 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

m s r ti e the top of a c own has indentations , and then the velvet may be glued to stay in place . The under or oute r facing m ay be ﬁtted to a - rolled or close ﬁtting brim more easily than the

U n r o f pper. Begin ing at the front with the co ner

the h e adsi ze the material, pin at edge and at the l wire . Keep the materia smooth ; work from right

. W to left, and then from left to right ork the ma

e t ri al around to where the seam is to be made . Cut ll away a superﬂuous material, allowing three

Sli stitch eighths of an inch for a seam . p together

on ni W as the top and ﬁ sh the edge over wire . hen ever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material .

A SHIR RED CROWN OF FABRIC

There are two methods of m aking a shirred c o f f or rown fabric in which ta feta, satin, georgette, V V elvet may be used . elvet is especially beautiful

wa made up in this y. The ﬁrst method is the pre

. o f ferred Cut a circular piece material, having a

o f diameter the length the crown from front to back,

he adsize i measuring over the top from the w re, plus four inches . On the wrong side of the m aterial mark circles MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 2 9

' - "concentric) one half inch apart, after ﬁrst having marked a circle in the center about three inches in

i n o d ameter . Gather o the line f each circle with a ﬁne running stitch and bring the thread through to

the right side as each circle is completed . Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut

of a small hole at this point . Pull thread the small

i u w est c rcle p tight . This will form a bag hich should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the crown top and sewed securely in place . The material should be pinned down at four

of a s equal points at the edge the crown, the thre d of the other circles pulled up until the material ﬁts A ln the crown snug ly. djust the ful ess evenly and s e w in place . This is an excellent way to use up old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects . The second method does not make as ple asing an f c ef e t, but may be used when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be cut n from it . A bias strip about eight i ches wide and long enough to reach around the crown, plus three or n on four inches , should be joi ed the lengthwise

e o thr ad of the material . The ﬁrst shirring r gather

l - the ing shou d be one half inch from the edge, addi 30 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS ti onal threads should be run in evenly every half inch . The first thread near the edge should then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the hole in the top of the crown . This method will require a somewhat larger opening than the first . The material is then drawn down on the outside and pinned to the bottom of the crown ; the threads are then pulled tight and firm and are fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly an d sew in place .

32 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

To SEW EDGE WIRE ON NETEEN

n It is difﬁcult to se w edge wire on ne te e . A good i result is ob tained, however, by sew ng the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge ﬁrst with crinoline and sewing the wire on it . Great care must be taken in handling n e te e n to preserve the

t ou t shape, as it is very easily s retched and pulled o f shape while sewing on the edge wire . The same method is used in covering a ne te e n frame as with the buckram frame . The velvet, if velvet is used , can be glued on, but the material is so porous that

e t e it is not very satisfactory. N e n and crinoli ne make excellent foundations for braid hats , as these i materials are l ght in weight, soft, and pliable .

’ They are also very satisfactory for children s hats .

To MAKE A TURBAN FRAME OF N ETEEN OR CRINO LINE

Make the side crown from a bias fold of ne te cn or one crinoline, the height desired , plus inch . The length should be the he adsi ze measurement plus - one half inch . This allows for a tiny ﬂare next to h the face whic is usually more becom i ng . J oin

on the ends of bias strips the warp thread . MAKE YOUR O WN HATS 33

To WIRE TURBAN FLARE tt Sew the he adsize wire one inch from the bo om, being careful not to stretch or full the material . Cut an other piece of brace wire on e or two inches larger than he adsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom, stretching the fabric to ﬁt if a ﬂare A l s desired . roll may be made by slightly fulling

on the fabric to the wire, which must be smaller

o f than for a ﬂare . If the side the crown is to be curved in slightly, this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and the bottom, drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin

se w the tape and in place . Sew another wire high enough above the tape to make the crown the re w quired height . If the cro n is to be ﬂared a little at w top , sew the ire inside and stretch the material as much as desired . If the top of the crown is to be dr se w awn in, the wire on the outside , making the n i ffi crow sl ghtly smaller at the top . If su cient mate rial is allowed at the top the extra amount may be dr awn up over a small circle of Wire to make the c to rown p, but an extra piece cut for this purpose i s more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made from an extra piece sewed over the top after the side is ﬁnished . 34 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

COVERING TURBANS Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the matron . Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be ou t of

on . place a larger hat However, any material may

or be used ; braids , alone in combination with fabric .

V f . A elvets , georgette, satin, and ta feta are used turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a charming hat " the lower edge invari ably looks better if first bound with a bias piece o f — velvet no matter what the covering may b e 1t A seems to give a softer look around the face . round crown of buckram makes a good turban frame if a bias strip o f crinoline an inch wide is sewed to the A lower edge to give a little flare . frame o f this

r w kind may be d aped ith velvet, satin, georgette , or i any pl able material, and when skillfully done the ff e ect is beautiful indeed . CHAPTER IV

WIRE FRAME S

EQUIPMENT Brace wire or frame Tie wire Sprung wire Pliers

To OPEN COIL OF WIRE

Hold the coil in the left hand ; unfasten and allow it to loosen gradually in the hand ; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils separate .

To CU T WIRE Place Wire ﬁrm ly and squarely between the j aws o f the pliers at the point where they cut and press

e at straight down . Be sur to cut with the ﬁrst

if wi off tempt ; otherwise , the re is haggled , the pliers are m ju r e d and the covering loosened at the ends of the wire which will make it impossible to tie them together . 36 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

To STRAIGHTEN WIRE

Pass the wire between the thumb and ﬁnger with

A or a sweeping motion . piece of cloth paper may

be held in the hand if the ﬁngers become tender . Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting

to straighten it, as it will be impossible to remove

them .

To TIE WIRE

Ends o f brace wire parallel .

Right angles tied di agonally.

Brace wire tied without use of tie wire .

e o f Befor beginning to make a frame wire, time will be s aved and necessary experience gained by

tying a few short pieces of wire, until a strong

o f joint can be made . Cut ﬁfty pieces or more tie - f wire three quarters o an inch long . Cut two pieces

o f brace or frame wire two or three inches long .

Lap the ends of the heavy wire one inch , then lap one of these pieces o f tie wire around once as close

of H to the end the brace wire as is possible . old in the left hand and with the end o f the pliers grasp the ends of the tie wire as close to the brace wire as

possible and twist tightly until the joint feels ﬁrm. Place pliers back a li ttle and twist several times TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE WIRE

TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY WITH U SE OF TIE WIRE

METHOD OF MA" ING PAPER

PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM

METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON

DROOPING BRIM

BRAID -COV ERED BRIM SHOWING PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS

METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC .

LENGTHS WHEN THE D IFFERENCE ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN

IN WID TH OF THE TWO SID ES IS PINNED ON BUC" RAM READ" V ERY GREAT TO CUT

38 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS the work ﬁrst to make a paper pattern for every A hat . hat is seldom made with all sections of the brim of equal width , and this is one important rea so n why it is more satisfactory ﬁrst to make a paper pattern .

PATTERN FOR BRIM - Make a pattern the same as for a straight brim

to sailor, being careful fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply . Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths "and crease . This is to determine the position of the wire m l spokes in the bri . The eight creases wi l corre spond to the eight spokes in the brim ; this is the

o f correct number spokes .

H EADSIZE WIRE FOB WIRE FRAME

A he adsize wire frame needs two wires , so cut i two just al ke, remembering always that the head size wire is the most important wire in any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the meas u re m e nts w taken for this ire . Measure as for the he adsize o in a fabric hat , lapping the ends ne inch ,

and tying them . Try on these wires and shape to MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 39

ﬁt the head . They should usually be elongated two inches .

Pin he adsi ze on the wire the paper pattern , placing the joining on the back crease and the exact center front Of wire on the front crease ; next pin l the sides secure y, being careful to keep the wire

one - shaped to ﬁt the head . Allow half inch inside o f wire and slash every half inch ou t to he adsize e e n ow . The pattern may be tried on the head for any necessary alte rati ons J The brim pattern may be added to or cut away .

WORKING MEASUREM ENTS NEEDED Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the

he adsize . wire Before removing the wire, mark the eight di fferent points where it crosses the creases R in the paper pattern . emove the wire from the pattern .

STICKS FOR BRIM Straighten and cut four pieces of frame Wire the length of the diameter o f the brim plus three inches

one for ﬁnishing. Place of these sticks across the he adsize wire from front to back on the marks made

by the pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal 40 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

he adsize . length . Fasten to the wire with tie wire

e Place the next stick from sid to side, j oining on

the pencil marks . The two remaining sticks when placed on the remaining marks divide the circle into

of eighths . This is called the skeleton the brim ; the

ront back ri ht side le t side wires are named f , , g , f ,

ri ht side ront ri ht side back le t side ront le t g f , g , f f , f

side back or S . The position of these ends pokes should correspond to the creases in the paper pat

o f a n tern, and the length e ch o e should be deter mined by measu ring the corresponding crease on

the pattern .

EDGE WIRE

Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length o f the circu mference o f the brim plus o n e inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the pattern and mark on it with pencil where e ach creas e touches

, it always keeping the tied ends on the back crease .

If these measurements are carefully made, the brim l wi l be exactly like the pattern .

To J OIN EDGE WIRE

Begin at the back and place the mark on the MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 41

edge wire on the back spoke at the pencil mark . Twist the end of the spok e once and a half around li the edge wire, using the j aws of the p ers to tighten

off the twist . Cut the end close and press the cut r end ﬂat with the pliers . Next ﬁnish the cente front

. A spoke , then the sides and those in between great deal depends upon accu racy in making an accepta A dd of b e ble wire frame . as many circles wire tween the edge wire and the he adsize wire as de

to . sired , fastening the spokes with tie wire Keep

all wire laps at the back on the center spoke .

COLLAR OF BRIM

Cu t the wire inside of the he adsize wire in the w center . T ist these wires once and a half around

he adsize the wire, bring ing the ends up at right

e d i ze J angles to the h a s wire . oin the second head m m size to the top of these wires , using the same

o m meth d as for joining the edge m . This collar m ay be made very low or as high as the wires will permit . A separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very sheer material or sheer l w braid . In such a case the col ar ould be made as high as possible to make a support for the crown 42 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

S QUARE CROWN FOR WIRE FRAM E Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for ﬁnishing . Cut and j oin a small circle of — - brace wire about three inches in di am eter for the

to crown p. Lay the four sticks across this circle dividing it into eight equal sections as at the begin m ning of the bri , and join to the sticks with tie wire . Cut a piece of brace wire one inch smaller than the he adsi ze t i wire . Lap the ends and" tie h s wire . E J longate slightly. oin to the sticks outside of the small circle . Keep all lapped ends of circles o n the center back spoke . Bend spokes down ove r this circle , then measure down from this circle for the height of crown and mark on spokes with pencil .

Be very accurate .

BASE WIRE FOR CROWN Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half

he ads ize inch longer than for the wire . Lap the

ends one inch and join with tie wire . The base wire o f any separate crown must be large enough to ﬁt

he ads ize e on over the wir the brim . Place thi s MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 43

he ad size circle, after having shaped it like the wire,

b e on the inside of the spokes at the point marked , ginning at the center back, and ﬁnish as any edge wire by twisting the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire . Press the wires down tight

off with the pliers . Cut the ends close and press ﬂat with the j aws of the pliers . Many more circles may be added and tied on with tie wire if desired also more spokes may be added . This would be desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or if used for blocking fabric for frames .

TRANSPARENT HATS If a wire frame is to be covered with thin mate rial, great care and thought should be given to the

am o fr e , for it then forms part f the desig n of the

. A hat ﬁner wire is sometimes used in this case , or a beautiful frame may be made for thin materials - by using a satin covered cable wire, and using as few wires as possible . It may seem advisable after a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires . CHAPTER V

ROUND CRO WN OF W IRE

A ROUND crown is one which rounds from tip to base . First straighten, measure, and cut four sticks

o f o f brace wire, as for square crown , the ordinary

for . length, allowing ﬁnishing Cut and j oin the ends of a short piece of brace wire ﬁve or six inches

h to long. T is makes a small circle for the p of the

r c crown . Begin by tying the sticks ac oss this cir le under it, dividing it into halves , quarters , and

s ac eighth , being careful that the divisions are made curately and that the sticks extend an equal length from the circle . Keep these wires ﬂat across this circle . The sticks may now be curved down . It is sometimes found easier to attach the base wire at this point before adding other circles .

BASE WIRE Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer

he adsize than the wire used for the wire . Lap the

one ends inch . Make this the same shape as the he adsize wire and test the size by trying it on over

MAKE YOUR O WN HATS 45 the he adsize wire on the brim for which the crown is

A h for made . n ordinary heig t a round crown would be seven inches from tip to base wire , but to be safe,

a . it is always better to measure the he d Sometimes , on accou n t of an abundance of hair or a high coif fure , a greater height is needed . If the base wire is

r elongated to ﬁt the head, the side measu ement from the tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter than from the tip to the front and the back . It will be most helpful to take an old crown which has an elongated he adsize and either meas u re it and work from the measures or else work over it. The crown must be even at the bottom when ni ﬁ shed, and when placed upon the table must rest

evenly. The base wire may be tied with tie wire on the front and back spokes and on each side spoke until the circles between it and the crown tip are

added . It will then be found easy to adjust it before

ni off e W1r s 1 .e . ﬁ shing the ; , the crown may be made

o higher r lower .

CIRCLES OR HOOPS

Add thre e circles o f wire between the base wire and the small circle at the top . The ﬁrst circle just

a e z bov the base wire should be of the same si e . Keep 46 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

l all wire laps at the back . The other two circles wil conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little further apart at the front and back than at the sides .

To FINISH THE BASE OF THE CROWN

The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base wire is to be fastened and

ﬁnished off the same as the edge wire on the brim .

A SHAPED WIRE FRAME MADE IN ONE PIECE

The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or one that droops a little . Before beginning this hat it will be found easier to

n e ce s have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be sary to make a pattern for the crown, which may be either round or square, and for which directions have l a ready been given .

PATTERN FOR BRIM

Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the a as di re c s me for a fabric shape , following the same tions . It may droop only a very little or ﬁt quite close . In either case the method is the same . MAKE YOUR OW N HA TS 47

Pin the he adsize wire on this pattern and try on

on to shape . Mark the wire at the point where the creases touch the wire . It is important not to hurry at this point . Make many patterns and then choose n A the most becoming o e . fter the pattern is per fe cte d , crease it sharply the same as in the sailor brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern and use them in marking the wires . This brim pat tern is not needed until the crown has been made .

w one In making a ire frame in piece, we begin at

to the p of the crown and Work down .

CROWN Measure four sticks as for the crown in the pre

of six ceding lesson, plus the width the brim, plus ni inches for ﬁni shing . This is ample to ﬁ sh both

o f on be ends wire, but account of the ends easily coming frayed it is better to have a generous al lowance . Begin at the crown tip and work down

he adsi z i s until ready for the e wire . The last wire or should be of the same size as the reg u lar head

i ze size wire . Place the lap o f the he ads wire on the back spoke of the crown and join b y twisting the

he spokes once and a half around . J oin t front and remaining spokes in the same way, being careful 48 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS to join where the wire was marked at the creases on the pattern .

BRIM

W e are now ready to make use of the measure ments taken from the pattern . Mark the length o f each spoke with a pencil ; the di stance they are to be apart should be marked o n the edge wire .

These measurements are taken from the pattern .

Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as m any circles between the edge wire and the head size wire as desired . W e have now made in wire the ﬁrst variation Al from a perfectly ﬂat brim . ways make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and then measurements may be taken from the hat

of wh to be copied . Here are some the reasons y the

" m a pattern is important ﬁrst, it y be tried on and i this helps to decide if the style is becom ng, before

ou t working it in wire ; second, the position of the wires may be determined and marked on the paper

pattern ; third , the more work done from a paper

to pattern the easier it will be copy ; fourth , it trains - the eye, thus making free hand work much easier. MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 49

A ROLLING BRIM Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a

i . separate br m, the same method is used First, as

th e l always , the paper pattern . If brim is to ro l c losely on one side and much higher than on the

r . other, extra Wi es will be needed to ﬁll the space The place for these may be determined on the paper n pattern . They may go all the way around, bei g b rought more closely together on the low side or nl o y part way around as in the illustration . Wire fram e making requires much patience and

an t . practice . It is ar just as all millinery is an art

Lines are all important . Because of this I urge

much pattern making . Even though one may not

r f n have the fundamental p inciples o art, somethi g really good often develo ps an d we ﬁnd we have

i k . s bu lt better than we new It stimulate originality,

but we must work without fe ar.

To COLOR WIRE FRAMES

W s a A ire come in both bl ck and white . white frame may b e colored to match any sheer fabric c used for its overing . It will be found to be more

S is A o imple to color the frame after it made . ny f

the cold or soap dyes may be used . If thes e are not 50 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

o f l available, a piece velveteen soaked in alcoho and rubbed on the frame will give o f its color suffi

Cré e ci e ntly to tint the wire . p paper may also be - . R used, or water color paints ouge may be used

are effectively if moistened . There also gold and silver wires which m ay be used for frames when de

o f . sired, and which will add to the beauty the design

I o f f they cannot be purchased, a frame white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt, applying it to the frame with a small brush .

HALO HAT BRIM S

IIalo i br ms may be made from any fabric, but f to be e fective the material should be sheer . Ma

or ff lines , nets , georgette crepe, chi on are all used f to good e fect in making this style o f hat . Good looking halo brims have been made from old g e or gette waists , using the back for the brim and the front and sleeves for the crown . O nly two wires are used in making this brim ,

an d he adsi ze e the edge wire the wire . Th size of the brim is to be determined and then a hoop of sprung wire cut just the length of the circu mference of the

brim . This wire is uncovered ; the ends just meet

o f and are joined by the use a little clamp , the ends

MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

on the brim in any position desired . Pin in place and se w with an overcasting stitch . Trim the mate

he adsi ze rial inside the wire, leaving an extension of - on e quarter of an inch to tu r n over ; it will be found

s w necessary to e this down over the wire, making the edge more secure . An other method o f making a halo brim is ao complished by cutting a piece o f material on the l bias , twice as wide as the brim and as ong as the

o f circumference . Stretch this piece material, then

the pin the center of strip over the edge wire, gather the raw edges to ﬁt the he adsize wire and s e w in place . This method does not make a smooth brim ,

a two but is more quickly m de . When thicknesses of sheer material are used for halo brims a very f pretty e fect is obtained by placing ﬂat ﬂowers ,

of or petals ﬂowers, feathers between the two ma

te ri als .

CROWN FOR HALO BRIM

This may be very sheer, although a halo brim

on c may be used a braid or satin rown if desired . A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists o f

c a mere ollar of frame wire several inches hi gh .

he adsize c This is sewed to the wire . The overing MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 53 for the crown is usually made in the shape of a

m e circle about fourteen inches in dia ter, with the

- s ame number of thicknesses as the brim . Gather one - f u l quarter of an inch rom the edge, adjust f l

i e ness and sew to the he ads z wire . The height o f n t the crown depe ds upon the s yle of hair dressing.

o f or Place a band the same material as the crown ,

of a narrow ribbon, around the base the crown for

m r e A how o trim ing and to conceal the wi s . wired f

. f f . the sheer material may " be used very e ectively "See chapter on CHAPTER VI

H AT CO VERINGS

To COVER WITH BRAID

G REAT care and patience must be exercised in cov

ering a hat with straw braid . The lines which are l i to be emphasized should be carefu ly stud ed , as there are several methods used in laying the braid

on the frames . "See illustration . ) The stitch used for sewing braid is always the

— o same a very short stitch n the right side, and a - stitch o ne quarter o f an inch long on the wrong

side . The thread must not be pulled too tight , or the position of the stitches may be seen ; also always match the thread to the straw . Straw braid may be

bli ckram ne te e n or sewed to a willow, , , crinoline frame except when a ve ry soft hat i s desired ; it may then be sewed and shaped over a wire or buck

on ram frame , but not to it, as it is to be removed

from the frame after sewing ; or, if the braid is

coarse, it may be sewed to a wire frame which has

i or been previously covered with crinol ne mull .

s "See illu tration . )

Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while a

MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 55

fabric is used on top . In this case the braid must be put on ﬁrst in order that the stitche s may be

r on taken th ough the brim, which the fabric top

will cover . To PIN IN PLACE ON THE FRAME

Place the outer edge of the straw even with the

o f ni outer edge the brim, begin ng at the center

back, allowing three inches to extend to the right . Pin in place and baste all the way around until the

center back is reached . Curve the second row grad u ally up from the center back ; do not make an

abrupt curve , until the correct lap is reached, usu

ne - ally o eighth o f an inch . There will be found a thread at the edge o f most braids which may be pulled up to take ou t the extra fullness when sewed

on o f o a curve . The outside edge the ﬁrst r w must

be left free for the edge of the fabric, which covers

d . the other side , to be slipped un er Do not begin

sewing until the second row is basted in place . To SEW

Bring the needle through the edge o f the braid

at the lap from the under side and take a tiny stitch , stabbing the needle through the braid and the buck ram ; the small stitch ou the right side will be hidden 56 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

if the thread is not pulled too tight . Take a stitch - - on the wrong side from one quarter to one half an inch in length , depending upon the width and qual ity of the braid . Continue basting and sewing the braid until the he adsize is reached and the braid ex

o i tends u p ab ve the he ads ze Wire one inch . If the brim is wider at some points than at others , the wider side must be ﬁlled in with short strips fol lowing the same curve, being careful that the ends are left long enough to e xtend up beyond the head

w one i size ire inch . When the br m is very much wider at some points , short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is sewed ; thi s would not make such an abrupt curve, and the gen i f eral l nes o the braid would be more pleasing . W hen one side o f the brim is to be covered with

to a he adsi ze fabric, ﬁt this the brim, b ste at the wire

one - o and cut the edge, allowing quarter f an inch to lap over the edge . Remove the basting from the ﬁrst row of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric

sli stitch under . Pin and p to place through the straw .

BOTH SIDES OF BRIM COVERED WITH BRAID Allow the ﬁrst rows to proj ect slightly beyond the edge o f the brim both on the top and the bot

58 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

the same until the crown tip is reached or a place

where it is impossible to make the braid lie ﬂat . The braid must then be separated into the smaller

off strands and one cut at a time, and each end lapped under the preceding strand ; proceed with

a OR the remaining str nds , cutting one at a time until

only one remains to ﬁni sh the center with . When

the crown tip is completed, push the remaining end through a hole in the center o f the crown tip and

se w o f to the inside the crown . When using this

of b e kind braid the operation may be reversed, ginning at the center of the top and covering a small circle of buckram with braid ; press it with a warm

s e w iron to ﬂatten it, then in place on the crown

and complete the covering. This seems the easier

o f method, because the top the crown will look much better if pressed and this will be found hard to do

unless begun on a small separate piece o f buckram .

To PIECE BRAID

Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspi cu ou s on point the hat , when careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed o f s e v eral smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart for several inches and the strands MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 59

cut in unequal lengths ; also the strands of the other end which is to b e joined to it should be cut of such leng th as to meet the corresponding ends and allow

o f Th e wa m a a lap one inch . ends cut in this y y be tucked under one at a time without the j oining b e

ing noticeable . If the braid is very wide it may seem best when covering a frame to cut and join

the ends of the row of braid . It would then be i in better to make a straight j oin ng the back .

i s If a fancy braid to be pieced, the ends are

lapped diagonally and sewed ﬂat . If a fancy join

o f i one to ing is part the design, a s mple is lap

the ends to look as though woven . This may be

on or or employed a crown brim both , and it then

o o becomes a part of the design . Al s the top f the crown or any part o f the hat may have a woven

f re covering o braid, but any such fancy method

an o f quires additional amount braid . The top of the crown may be covered by laying

allow m the braid on straight from front to back , g the ends to extend down on the side crown an inch

or m ore . The braid of the side crown should cover

o f these ends . The brim a narrow hat 1 s often cov e red with short leng ths o f braid radiatin g from the he adsiz e w e i On , the ends extend ng up the crown 60 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

ne o o inch . A fabric is often combined with braid f r

o f or f c the sake design, if there is an insu ﬁ ient

o f quantity braid .

C O TOP O A D S D O O FAB R WN F BR I , I E CR WN F RIC SIDE CROWN OF BRAID A N D TOP OF FABRIC

B M ATERIAL P OR D D SET IN D AND OF i LAIN COR E , SI E CROWN BRIM AND CROWN MADE FROM SMALL PIECES OF SILK AND BRAID - A very soft looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire fou ndation which has be en

e The made for the purpos . braid may be pinned on of s the brim wire and ewed, being careful not to attach the braid to the frame ; slip the needle over the wire an d ﬁnish sewing the braid while it is still

br1m pinned to the , then remove, press slightly, and sew a facing of braid to the under side o f the brim

of if desired . Some kinds braid may be dampened

before pressing, but it is safer to experiment ﬁrst

with a small piece, for some braid is ruined by pressing . A soft crown of braid should be ﬁtted over a MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 61

m A re wire crown and sewed in the sa e way. fter it l moving from the wire frame, it can be s ightly pressed by holdin g it over a thick cloth held in the ha nd and pressing a warm iron to the outside . A soft hat of braid can more easily be made by ﬁrst making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid to it . Horsehair braid crowns are beautiful when x m a shaped over a wire foundation . They y be presse d sli ghtly "after being removed from the wire crown over which they have been shaped) w w hen they ill be found to keep their shape . The brim wou ld need a wire foundation to hold it ou t in shape and the braid should be caught down to t e A ir h Wire as it is being sewed . small lace w e

u l fo sho d be used r this foundation, four spokes together with th e he adsize wire and edge wire b e fﬁ ing su cient. The wire should be wound with ma

n or v of li H li e ha e a facing ma ne . orsehair braid i o f s transparent . There are many fanciful ways

on di using braid a hat, but these can be rea ly copied if the foregoing methods have been mastered . Be very careful about pre ssm g braids or adding mois ture as it ruins some braids , while others must be moistened before they can be han dled in se wm g to 62 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

CO F AM S T MA NET R VERING WIRE R E WI H LINE , O GEORGETTE Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer

as material, such maline, net, or georgette, must

be carefully made , as the wire frame becomes a

o f part the design, and the wire should be silk

covered . S If maline is used, it hould be pleated or gathered

on , unless the brim is of the halo style, for which

or directions are given elsewhere . Four ﬁve thick

of al The nesses m ine are necessary. material is often gathered in small quarter-inch tucks at the points where the tuck may be sewed to the circle

wire on the brim or the crown . A small tuck at the edge wire wou ld make a softer looking edge

than if put on plain . The fullness is then gathered

iz in and sewed to the he ads e wire . If the edge is

o f - left plain, a few rows lacey looking braid may n be sewed o the edge . A wide tuck hanging down from the edge is sometimes used an d it i s very be

coming to certain types of faces . The wires of a frame are often ﬁrst wound with narrow bias

pieces of net or maline . The edges are turned in

an d d the material wrapped on smoothly an evenly . Sometimes the wires are wound with a contrasting

color . MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 63

An effective covering for any frame may be made

of from ribbon or bias strips satin or silk, velvet

o or . r or ge rgette, any soft fabric If a wi e frame

a is used, it must ﬁrst be covered with a thin pl in material to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon

or of or strips of material may be sewed, a frame ne te e n or crinoline may be used if a very soft hat is desired .

RIBBON COVERING

If on one a ribbon is used, it must be gathered edge so that it may be drawn down to ﬁt the frame

o A - and may be laid n the same as braid . n inch wide ribbon is easily handled .

BIAS FABRIC

If or bias strips of silk satin are used, the mate - rial should be cut in strip s tw o and one half inches

on wide, a true bias , and joined in one long strip . Fold lengthwise through the middl e and gather the raw edges together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge . This is sewed to the frame th the same as braid, the folded edge overlapping e raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it as 64 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

l ll it is pirmed and sewed in p ace . This is an exce ent

al way to use up old materi .

H AT LININGS

A HAT li ning should receive the same careful consideration and workmanship as the outside of ’ m o f V the hat . From the illiner s point iew it is an

we advertisement, the place where ﬁnd the design ’ - e r s . A ﬁtte d lin s name well ing, whether of omber

o h o f . or gay c lored silk, en ances the value a hat Sometimes we ﬁnd a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to

in or - the l ing, a little lace trimmed pocket for the

V eil . There are three popular kinds of lini ngs Plain lining French li ning Tailored lining

PLAIN LINING

This should be made of a bias strip o f material

he adsize cut the length of the wire, plus one inch for seam . The Width should be the same as the

one - crown height plus two and half inches . - Fold one end over one half inch and pin to the

MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 65 back of the hat ; fo ld the edge of the material down - one quarter of an inch around the inside of the crown as close as possible to the edge without show n ing when the hat is o the head . Pin in place all th e way round and slipstitch the two ends together ; then begin at the seam and sli pstitch the lining in

Th e place . method is to bring the needle from the

ni r o f underside of the li ng th ough the edge the fold, catch a few threads o f material on the hat opposite

the this thread, and put needle back through the fold at the ‘ s am e po int ; bring the needle through the fold - one half inch from the ﬁr st stitch and proceed in nn this ma er until the seam is reached . Turn the - other raw edge down one half inch to the wr ong side - and make a runni ng stitch one quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow ribbon should be

to run, and drawn down as much as necessary make

A c the lining ﬁt the crown . rown tip is used with

hi i of of t s lining, wh ch is made a piece silk four

h or o f inc es square , sewed glued to the inside the ’ crown top . On this p1ece the designer s name is usually found .

FRENCH LINING

Thi s lini ng is made from an oval piece of silk 66 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

s which correspond to the crown measurements . Measure the crown from front to back and from

to one u side side, adding inch to these meas rements . Fit a small wire to the inside of the hat at the head

o f size and tie . Lap the edge the silk over the wire

- of G l one quarter an inch . ather the si k close to the

i r s . A r w re using a small unning, titch fte com

le te d sli stitch . p , pin in place and p to the crown This lining will reduce the he adsize of any hat s an omewhat, so it should never be used if there is y danger of making the hat too small for the head .

TAILORED LINING i This lin ng is rather the most popular lining used . Large ﬁrms send their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be bought ready

ahn ost has made, but every one pieces of silk which n may be easily made into o e o f these lini ngs . - Cut an oval of crm oline two thirds as large as n the top of crown, baste a piece of silk li ing over this . Pin this on top of the crown , as this can best be ﬁtted on the outside and should be done b e fore the hat i s made . Now cut a piece of bias mate rial long enough to reach around the bottom of the c rown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all MAKE YOUR O WN HATS 67

. A n n points fter pi ni g it to the crown tip , turn up - one quarter of an inch at the bottom and pin to the

o b ttom of the crown . Stretch snugly because the in side of the crown is smaller ; pin the fullness to the

n al crow top l around, gather between pins, and

baste in place . Stitch on the machine . This seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover

the seam . ff Linings may be made of ta eta, china silk, satin, sateen or of almost any material which is not too h heavy . W en a wire frame is covered with thin ’ the material and frame shows through , the hat shou ld have a thin lining . If the hat is covered with i maline, use a maline l ning ; if with georgette, a li georgette ning should be used. CHAPTER VII

TRIMMINGS

’ MILLINER S FOLD

of l or CU T from a piece ve vet, satin, any fabric

hi on e - w ch is to be used, a bias strip and one half inches wide and of the desired length . This must

a be on a true bi s , which is found by placing the warp and woof threads parallel . Any other bias is called a garment bias . Hold the wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side toward you and up to the center and baste close to

Th e the edge . basting thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched . Leave the bast ing in . Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges meet, but do not baste . Fold again , - keeping this last fold one quarter o f an inch or a H little less from the other folded edge . old in place li and sli pstitch down . S p the needle through the edge of the fold and take a long stitch , then, going down through to the other side, take a short stitch . Come back through a little under the fold to hi de MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 69

th o f the stitch . Slip e needle along the edge the

fold as before, and continue in this manner . The thread should be kept loose all the w ay to permit li the fold to be stretched s ghtly when used . The fold when ﬁnished should not twist or look as if it

had a stitch in it . An other separate single fold may be added to ’ this ; it is then called a French fold . The milliner s

fold has many uses , such as ﬁnishing the edge of

b ats t f , and the bo tom o crowns , to cover the j oining

of the hat to the brim . It is used sometimes around the top o f a square crown and is much used in

ni ll m of cré e . mour ng mi inery, when it is ade p

Bows - FOR the inexperienced in bow making there is no better plan than to copy many di fferent styles of

bows , using either tissue paper or cheap cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many - times . Bow making is s ometimes quite di fficult for an amateur, while for some students of millinery it n is very easy, but any o e with patience may become quite expert in time . Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width i the of the ribbon which s to be used . In thi s way 70 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

ll exact amount of ribbon may be determined, as we f - as the length of each loop . If a sti f, smart looking bow is to be made, fold the ribbon in loops before " - i o f - . r pleating If a soft look ng pu fy, fat looking i bow is desired, pleat the ribbon s ngly before mak

c ing the loops . The soft bow is often used for hil ’ A l dren s hats . fter the desired number of oops is

a w m de, ind a strong thread around the center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center several times until the center i s ﬁlled up s f l u ﬁciently to ook well .

Bows OF MALINE

Maline is one of the most beautifu l materials used H in millinery and it lends itself to many uses . at frames are covered with maline ; it i s used to cover wings to keep feathers in place ; to cover faded or - worn out ﬂowers ; for shirred brims and crowns ; for ple ating s ; for folds on edges of brims to give a soft l ook ; and for bows . A how of maline requires wiring with a very small

or tie wire lace wire . The wire may be caught in a

of r fold at the edge the loops , o the loops may be m d d l r a n a e oub e with the wi e c ught i side .

72 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

These are very pretty perched on the edge o f a brim or among ﬂowers on the hat .

’ TRUE LOVERS " NOT

t This is not, stric ly speaking, a bow, but comes under this head . The ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed ﬂat as it is made. It may be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made o f gold ribbon .

TAILORED Bow

This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon

a which has both sides alike, although it may be m de A from any ribbon . Knox tailored bow is made

- o f from gros grained ribbon . Cut a small piece

n s e w on buckram for a foundatio to the ribbon . This should be suffi ciently small so that the ribbon

b i o . f will conceal it ake two loops equal length , letting the ribbon lie perfectly ﬂat . Measurements

u sho l d be very exact . Sew these loops ﬁrmly to the buckram ; fold the ribbon back and forth to make

o these loops without cutting . Next fold tw more

one on one - t o f loops , each side, quar er an inch s o horter and exactly n top . Sew ﬁrmly and cut the RAD IATING PLEATIN G MAD E ON LOW PYRAM ID OF BUC" R AM

SECTION OF MALINE

PO B'IPON SHOWING

METHOD OF FASTEN 3 ING ON THE WIRE TRUE LOV ERS " NOT

RADIATING PLEATING MAD E ON BUC" RAM FOUNDATION

SECOND METHOD O F MA" IN G AN ORCHID CENTER "s e e page 9 1 )

74 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

Box PLEATING This is made by turning the ﬁrst pleat to the left and the next to the right . The same amount of ma te ri a l is required as for side pleating . If the pleats

one - are to be half inch deep , the box pleat will be l one inch across . Baste with si k thread at the top

t on sirn le and bot om , and press the wrong side . A p box pleating may be basted through the center and the edges caught together . - D OU BLE OR TRIPLE BO" PLEATING

i s one or one This made by adding more pleats ,

to i two on p of the other . Begin by mak ng or more ni pleats tur ng to the left, then the same number

t ni . ur ng to the right Be very accurate, being care

to a ful ke ep the box pleat the ex ct width desir ed .

to Baste at the p and bottom . This pleating is nearly a lways used by basting through the center, after having slightly pressed . The top and bottom bast h ings are then removed . The pleating may be caug t

o f together at top and bottom box pleat , and it is

w rose le atin then kno n as p g .

RADIATING

i s di fﬁ l i This the most cult p eating to fash on, but MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 75

a very handsome ornaments are made in this w y. A foundation of buckram is usually required to sew l the pleats on as they are laid . The two il ustrations f A given will su ﬁce . fter these two examples are

c t corre ly copied, other models and original designs c an be eas ily made .

F OU N DATIONS OF BUC" RAM

The foun dation for the second is in the shape of

lo am i a w pyr d made from buckram . Cut a small

‘ r i circle of buck am, slash in three equally d stant - places from the outer edge to within one eighth o f n a inch of the center . Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or m ore of pleating may be used on this o A rnament . n ordinary ornament will require about

ﬁve - u l yards of inch wide ribbon . The ﬁrst row wo d be placed near the outside edge of the buckram and

a e ch pleat sewed as it is laid . The pleating should i radiate from the center . To do th s , the inside of the pleating wi ll lap more than the outside . The n ext row will overlap thi sﬁrst row and the same method will be used . The pleating may be tested by holdi ng a ruler on a line between the top and the l of ower edge the pleating . The pleats should all be a s h a or on traig t line between these points . The l st 76 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

f of ﬁnishing row is the most di ﬁcult all . The pleats

an d at the apex should meet, pleats at the lower overlapping edge be on a li ne with the rest o f the n pleating . A tiny bow or butto is sometimes used ni to ﬁnish the top , but it is much handsomer if ﬁ shed

Without either bow or button .

PoM PONs

MALINE pom pou s make a very pretty ornament for

n or any hat . They may be made perfectly rou d n elongated li ke the illustration . Several thick esses

one of the material may be cut at time . The shape of the pieces for the elongated pompon would be " " E cut like pattern a . ach piece is folded length

i o f w se the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which has been previously wound with maline .

of The edges these pieces are left raw, and enough

u i are used to make the pompon appear q te compact .

RIBBON ROSETTES

THERE ar e many diﬁ e re nt kinds o f rosettes made from ribbon . Sometimes several loops o f ribbon are made very close together and wound with

h tt r te t read as they are gathered . A very pre y oset

CHAPTER V III

H AND -MADE FLOWERS

FL OWERS

MATERIAL REQUIRED

Tie wire, green G um tissue, brown and green Cotton batting ’ fMilline r s glue " ellow stamens Dark green tissue paper FLOWERS may be made from almost any fabric satin, velvet, georgette, maline, ribbon , soft leather,

cra b a Oilcloth , yarn, and chenille . A s p g for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces o f A n materials . y piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits . Such a bag Of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in makin g flowers and fruit trimmings . Each year brings out novelties in m - trim ings , but hand made flowers are always worn f more or less on hats , gowns , suits , and mu fs . They A are especially beautiful on evening gowns . gener ou s number o f the best examples are given here with illustrations . . M O . O S . . S A A E RICAN BEAUTY R SE WITH D ETAIL B . RIBB N RO E C CHERRIE

WITH D T . D . RCH D S WITH I TH R ISINS . E AIL O I L LIE OF E V ALLE E . A S Y .

F . R D ROS TH D T N TT WI E E WI E AIL . PO E IA G . I S .

80 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

n n - - as having a o e and o e half inch bias . The next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be cor re sponding ly wider ; the next ﬁve should have a two

one - - he and half inch bias, and t next ﬁve a three inch bias . The three small petals should be arranged around the covered loop o f wire and pinned in place

. E before sewing . Sew securely ach row, as it is ar ranged according to size, should be pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed

‘ ' ’ f c t e fe ively . E ach row should be placed a little

one o higher than the preceding . See that the face f the flower looks as nearly like a real rose as possi w ble , allo ing the back to look as it will . W ith a little experience one soon becomes e ffi cient and learns how to adjust the difle re nt mate rials . Some materials being more pliable than o thers , the shape Of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the need . The back Of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number o f green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the purpose . A small green cup is also added to fini sh the base ; these may be bought at ribbon cou n ters . The bud used with this rose may be made by using the three smallest petals . Some green foliage must also be used with this rose and the stem bound MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 81

rr - or w u m with a na ow gray green ribbon, ith g tissue

which should be warmed before using . The inside petals may be o f a darker shade than the outside

petals .

RIBBON ROSE - TO make a medium sized ribbon rose requires

two of two yards satin ribbon inches wide . There are several different methods Of making the center

for this rose . A simple center for this rose may be

made from a piece Of the ribbon, four inches long .

Fold this in half . Sew the selvages together along

one hi h side . Turn and ﬁll with cotton around w c - has been wound the end o f a Si x m e h piece o f frame W A li tt - ire . le rose scented sachet powder may be s prinkled on this cotton to add perfume to the blos

om G s . ather the satin down close to the wire after in round g the corners at the lower edges . Two yards should make this center and eighteen petals . More

or e e may be added fewer may b us d . For the ﬁrst row cut three lengths three inches long ; the second

fi ve one - row, lengths three and half inches long ; third row, five lengths four inches long ; fourth row, n - E five lengths four and o e half inches long. ach petal i s finished the same before it is sewed in place . 82 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

s Fold the two end together, turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and pin in place . Now raise the end on the back Of the petal and catch the corners down with a few small stitches . Replace the end and gather the raw edges together, but do not

all Of draw up close . Prepare the petals in the same way before beginning to sew them to the center . Sometimes a tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each W petal to make the rose look larger . hen all the

are petals ﬁnished, begin the rose by adding the three smallest petals ﬁrst . Pin in place around the center, wrapping them closely around it and letting - them extend about one eighth o f an inch above the A ni l point . dd the next row, pin ng each peta in place before sewing . Place each succeeding row

one - o f one eighth an inch above the preceding . W atch the face Of the blossom carefully and see that it looks as natural as possible . The back o f the blossom will be covered when ﬁnished, either

or with a few Old rose leaves and a rose cup , points A Of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves . rubber stem may be bought to slip over the wire on which

the rose is sewed, or the wire may be wound with

o green ﬂoss , baby ribbon, green tissue paper , r

I is be gum tissue . f the rose to full blown , it would

84 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

- To center Of a ten inch piece Of tie wire . this loop

or s e w the bud . Twist the wire several times f an

one Of inch below the bud , then turn end the wire back and twist it around the stem until the bud is

W o f reached . ind it several times over the base the

s e e bud, draw it tight and that the wire is close to

for . gether . This will make a ﬁnish the bud

The rose foliage may be made if desired . Cut the l or or eaves from green satin velvet , color them - - green with water color if a light colored materi al A must be used . fter cutting the pieces in the shape o f rose leaves "it will require two pieces for each ’ one w li leaf) , lay wrong side up , cover ith mil ner s

on i i glue . Lay the center of th s a piece Of tie w re

on long enough for the stem . Place another leaf n this a d press together. When all the leaves are

on t or made after this method, arrange a long s em

and u w s wire , if wo nd with bro n gum ti sue it will look very natural .

S MALL WOUND ROSE OF FABRIC Cut from a true bias a strip Of material one inch

Wide and four inches long . Fold lengthwise throu gh

. o n the middle Turn the raw edges in n o e end , MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 85 and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges . Draw the thread up to one inch and

w e w A s . roll, beginning ith the folded end, and piece Of tie Wire may be glued inside the fold before l gathering, if desired . These ittle roses may be sewed on a stem or sewed to a shaped piece of buck v ram which has been co ered with silk . It may be in the shape o f a buckle or a circle and covered with in these little roses several colors , pink, blue, and

. on mauve Sewed ﬂat against a crown or a brim,

u t f they wo ld rim a hat e fectively .

W IRED ROSE

This rose, when carefully made , is most beauti ful an d sells for an exorbitant price . To make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter Of a yard - o f satin cut on the bias and one eighth Of a yard o f

n one or velvet cut o the bias . If the velvet is more

s . shade darker, the result will be more pleasing The rose i s fashioned from petals cut like the

i o illustrat on . The ﬁrst three petals are cut fr m l dimensions given in the i lustration, two inches long

on e - and and three quarters inches wide . The next - ﬁve. petals should be one quarter Of an inch larger, and each succeeding row of ﬁve petals shou l d be 86 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS - one quarter Of an inch larger than the preceding one . The last row Of petals is to be made from the

o f velvet . Cut a piece the tie Wire long enough to

one reach around the outside edge Of each petal, plus n - l W and o e half inches . Lay the peta s down rong side up , bend the wire to the shape Of the petal, lay the Wire close to the edge and turn the raw edge - over the Wire one eighth o f an inch and glue in ’ place with milliner s glue . Place a light weight on the petals until thoroughly dry . Begin assembling the ﬂower by ﬁrst making a

Of center from some the scraps left from the velvet, or yellow rose stamens may be used ; fold several - small pieces into bud like shapes of about one inch

o in length , sew strongly and fasten n a loop of the wire six inches long . Keep the point Where all the petals are joined in as small a circu mference as w possible . Begin ith the three small petals , pleat them at the bottom into as small a space as possible, and se w to the center with the wrong side to the A center . fter they have been arranged , the edges

A a may be crinkled down somewhat . dd the rem in ing petals according to their size . The last row Of velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is placed with the right side toward the center .

88 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow stame ns or kn otted baby ribbon . The foli age is made from green velvet lined with t green silk . The accompanying illustra ion shows the proportion of both the petals of the blossom w and the foliage . The stems may be wound ith green or brown gum tissue .

POPPIES

Poppies m ay he made from ribbon seventeen - inches long and two and one quarter inches wide . - i Cut two pieces ﬁve and one half inches long . Th s i leaves one piece six inches long . This w ll make

on ﬁve petals . Cut the ends round the ﬁve and one

one - half inch pieces , and cut end of the six inch n piece round . Begi ning at the center , close to edge, ni gather with a small run ng stitch . Turn in the raw edges and draw the thread sufﬁciently to make the

one O f rounded ends curl over inch , and fasten f the thread . These two long pieces make four petals .

s e w Pleat them very close at the center, together, ﬁnish the single petal the same and add it to the four petals . Knotted black baby ribbon or yellow l stamens or both will make a beautifu center . MAKE YOUR OW N HATS 89 MORNING GLORIES

Cut a circle of paper four inches in di ameter . One quarter section Of this will be the pattern for

a morning glory . The circle may be larger if de

u l s sired, but the size sho d depend omewhat upon the material used ; These dimensions are for a small ’ blossom made of taﬂe ta silk or organdie . If made o f v velvet or hea y silk, the pattern should be much larger . - Lap the straight edges one eighth of an inch in

s . c and paste in place . Thi makes a cone Cut a pie e of one tie wire six inches in length , lap end over several knots o f ye llow baby ribbon and twist se curely. Push the other end Of Wire through the cone from the inside and draw the knots down into the point . Make a short bend in the wire at the lower point Of the blossom on the outside to prevent its

on W Ire the slipping down the . The upper edge Of cone may be rolled over a piece Of tie wire and pasted if necessary ; usually it stays in place without

in or Th either sew g pasting . e edge should be ff stretched slightly. Organdie or ta eta silk will stay l rolled into place without the tie Wire . W ater co or is used most effectively on these ﬂowers to make the

Of shading as true to nature as possible . If made 90 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS velvet they may be sewed down ﬂat on a hat at the side j oining, when a large stamen Of twisted ribbon or chenille may be made to cover the joining in the cone .

ORCHID This blossom is especially adapted to the gown Of

or o f the matron, wherever a touch lavender is de

. It f or sired is e fectively combined with violets, li -Of- - c lies the valley and maidenhair f m . The petals - are made of satin ribbon one and one quarter inches wide and Of the peculiar pinkish lavender orchid

— o shade . There are ﬁve petals in all each calls f r

s o f . Of even inches ribbon If possible, three the petals should be one or two shades darker than the other two . - Fold a seven inch piece o f ribbon "one and one quarter inches wide) in half with the right side

ou t. Cut into shape like the illustration . Stitch a - s eam along the curved edge one eighth of an inch

one from the edge . Twist a very small loop in - end Of a piece o f seven inch tie Wire and fasten up at folded end Of the ribbon . Overhand this wire along the raw edges , turn to the wrong side and - - se w the wire in with a one eighth inch seam on the

92 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS

Cut the other e nd like the diagram and sew this

ou t with the velvet side , leaving a tiny space at the bottom to insert the wire . This now looks some " " thing like a J ack in the Pulpit . Twist a few yel - low stamens i n the end Of a piece o f seven inch tie wire and push the other end down through the little opening left at the lower point and draw the sta r mens down in as low as desired . Make a small, sho t loop in the tie Wire close to the blossom to prevent li c its s pping ba k down on the wire . Each year there are new developments in ﬂower

the . I making, but principles are the same f a few di f are mastered, there is usually very little ﬁculty experienced in copying others which m ay appear

ad from year to year . Lovely ﬂowers may be m e from a few Inches o f b at braids which are left over

or rafﬁa . from wool and , maline or colored nets

BLOSSOM s OF M ALINE OR NET

These may be made by using the same pattern as A s t s for the merican Beauty. rose, elec ing the ize required . "See illustration . ) Lay a strip Of tie wire inside along the bias fold . Gather along the curved edge and draw down tight . This brings the two ends of the tie wire together, and they should be MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 93

Ar o r twisted lightly. range four ﬁve leaves around

w . e e I a few yello stamens If green tie s used, it 18 not necessary to wind the stems ; otherwise brown g u m tissue may be woun d around the stem . From ’ di ﬂe re nt this pattern many blossoms may be made , in vary g it slightly, such as rosebuds, sweet peas, and apple blossoms . SWEET PEAS

Cut four petals after the same pattern, making one one one - two one about and half inches and inch ,

one or o then a small for the center, a few kn ts of baby ribbon may be used for the center . Arrange - the petals in a natural looking blossom .

V IOLETs

N O 1s ﬂower more popular than the violet, and a cluster of handsome violets make a most acceptable g ift at any time . Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter Of an inch in width is used . Begin by tying a knot one inch from the end , tie another one inch from this knot ; continue until there are ﬁve or six knots one inch apart . In tying, try to keep the satin side Of the ribbon ou t and make as round a knot as pos sible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the 94 MAKE YOUR O WN HATS

O to . t knot . D not tie o tightly A little prac ice is

. H needed, but the blossom is easily made old the m first knot between the thu b and finger, bring the third knot up and place with it, then the fifth , nd — a so on, until the knots are all placed usually

on e or . three on side, and two three on the other Cut green tie wi re six or seven inches long for

of be stems . Wind an inch the end over the ribbon tween these folded kn ots and twist . Cut the ribbon - Off . pointed, leaving one half inch end

WO T shades Of ribbon may be used if desired . Sometimes a few yellow stamens are fastened in with the wire or a few French knots in yellow added at the center after the blossom is made , but neither is needed an d add but li ttle to the beauty o f this li ttle blossom . Shape the petals up around the cen ter .

can or The foliage for this ﬂower be bought, made o A acc rding to directions given elsewhere . spray A m Of almost any foliage will do . s all rosebud , a - morning glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of l violets will make it doub y charming .

DAISIES - Daisies may be made from one quarter inch rib;

96 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS A stitch may be caught through the center and

or b pulled down , a little tuft of rown embroidery thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic w - look . The apple may be tinted with ater color if

desired . In that case the entire apple should be moistened ﬁrst and then the color appli ed and al

lowed to dry .

CHERRIES These are made from a smaller circle of material — than the apple satin or velvet would make a

charming cluster . The method used is the same as

for the apple, except that there would be no stitch

in the center . They should also be ﬁlled until they

are hard . Use tie wire for the stems .

PLU M s - These may be made from a piece o f plum colored

on one - material a true bias , two and quarter inches

one one - long and and quarter inches wide . Sew

on the ends together the wrong side . Turn , gather one - end one eighth Of an inch from the edge . Pull

" " s e w the thread up tight and . This makes the blow - end . Turn the lower edge in one eighth Of an inch and gather . Fill with cotton to which a piece of tie MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 97 wire has been attached and pull close to wire and w A se . dd as much cotton as necessary to procure ni the right shape before ﬁ shing .

R AISIN s These may be made from gathering a folded cir cle Of plum-colored material one-eighth of an inch

i . from the edge, but used without ﬁlling w th cotton Se w to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire

A . with brown gum tissue . rrange in a cluster Al ways warm the tissue before using so that it will adhere .

GRAPES

These are made the same as cherries , except a c luster would have several sizes . They are beautiful

A of made from black velvet . cluster grapes to se w ﬂat to hat may be made by covering different sizes Of button molds and arrang Ing them on a hat to look like a cluster .

MOURNING MILLINER"

HAT S worn when one Is In mourning ar e nearly always small and made of black crepe with a few

of folds of white crépe near the face . The covering 98 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

i crepe is always l ned, preferably with sheet wadding to give the soft appearance desired . The trimming

’ is o f milliner s folds or ﬂat ﬂowers made of the 1 crepe . The mourning veils used may have a simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem .

The applied hem is much the handsomer ﬁnish .

APPLIED H EM ON A VEIL

s six For a hem three inche wide , cut a strip inches in width and long enough to reach around the edge

Of the veil plus three inches for each corner . It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a rectangular veil . Fold this strip lengthwise in the m iddl e and baste with ﬁne running stitches one inch from the fold

Mﬁe to hold the fold ﬂat . asu re this strip at the edge Of the veil to locate the place Where the fold must - be mitred at the corners . Cut a V shaped piece from

one - o f this fold to within quarter an inch Of the fold .

Cut through both thicknesses . Sew these raw edges - together in a seam one quarter of an inch deep and

m E n the result will be a itred corner . ach cor er should be carefully planned and mitred before se w

ing to the veil . Next turn both raw edges down

1 " " Se e ch a ter on Fl we r p o s .

CHAP TER I"

REMODELING AND RENO VATING

STRAW SHAPES

RIM — I B Brush well to remove all the dust. f the

o f re brim is t o wide, a few rows O braid may be

and r n moved from the edg e, the edge eﬁ ished with one or more rows of ornamental braid Of the same t color . If it seems necessary to use an edge wire, his

row or last Of braid may be made to cover it, a bias

o s or fold f atin, silk, velvet, ribbon may be sewed over the wire . — CROWN VVhe n the crown Of a straw hat is found

w be to be too low for the present style, the cro n may ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of buckram sewed to the bottom Of the crown and then sewed

th e back to brim . Of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram . If the crown is too high, a few rows Of braid may be removed at the

Of bottom the crown, enough to give the desired height . MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 1 01

TO PUT A STRAW H AT INTO SHAPE If the general outli nes Of a straw shape are found

or to be good, if it only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory results . It is

- u se really home blocking by the of heavy cardboard .

A c an on rounded crown be made ﬂat top , and a slightly rolling brim can be made into a straight brim by using thi s method . It is a joy to take an di Old, scarded, battered straw hat and make it into a

- u -- of fresh looking and p to date hat, a piece work

on o which any e may well be proud f . Cut from a piece o f heavy cardboard the exact

z of shape and si e which the crown top is to be made. Cut another the exact height of the crown and long o en ugh to fit around the head, allowing the ends to just meet . Sew these pieces of cardboard together which will make a crown the exact shape you n wish . Dampen the straw crown su fii ci e tly to make it very pliable and pull it into shape over this cardboard crown . Turn the crown upside down on A a flat surface and place a weight in the crown . flatiron or a small stone jar wi ll make a good weight . Bind the outside firmly and smoothly with

to A a cloth , pin in place , and leave dry . fter it is

re thoroughly dry, remove the cloth, and before 1 02 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

or moving it from the block , cover with a coating two Of some good coloring which may be bought for the purpose . This can be procured in several f colors , but must be put on with a sti f brush and rubbed in well in order to produce an even shade .

If the brim is rolling and is to be made ﬂat, dampen it thoroughly, press it down ﬂat on a smooth

a surf ce, and cover with weights ; leave until dry , when a few coats Of coloring may be applied . If the w brim is separate from the cro n, the hat may be completely changed by sli pping the brim down over

or t the crown, leaving it an inch so from the bo tom

on one i side or in the back, mak ng a bandeau which

o f r or lends itself to trimming ﬂowers , ibbons, ma

a e li nes . In this c se the bottom Of the crown would r

a on quire wire sewed at the edge to keep it in shape .

If a high luster is desired , a coating Of shellac may i be appl ed the last thing before trimming.

LIGHT STRAW HATS Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of

soap and water or gasoline . If the hat is in need of

or bleaching, sulphur and water may be used , a com m e rci al bleaching ﬂuid may be bought all ready to

u se di i o accor ng to pr nted directions . Two r thr ee

1 04 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS entire crown with flower petals sewed down flat and intermingled with green leaves . They should then i be covered with a layer or more of maline . This s a good way to use up Old flowers . The flowers will stand a lot Of retouching with color when they are veiled . OLD BUCKRAM FRAM ES When a covered buckram shape has become

ou t o f . broken and shape, remove all the covering

Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron . A roll o f cloth or paper must be held in the hand while A fﬁ pressing the crown . break in buckram is di cult to remove ; however, if new material is not avail

DO re able, much may be done with the Old . not move the he adsi ze wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed .

he adsize WIre 18 If the too large or too small , now i s the time to change it . If the general shape Of the i br m is to be changed , remove the edge wire and trim

i or to the requ red width . If it is to droop roll , slash the brim from the outer edge to the he adsi ze wire

one - of and lap quarter an inch at the edge . Slash in several places if necessary . Sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with a strip o f muslin or crinoline sewed on ﬂat . MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 1 05

If be or a brim is to made more ﬂat ﬂaring, slash - and add V shaped pieces Of buckram . If the head i size is entirely too large, this may be remed ed by

v m e he adsize dividing the brim into hal es . Re ove th

r wi e and the edge wire, cutting through from front

to k he adsi ze i back . Lap and sew ; ma e the W re the

required size and sew back on the brim . Trim the

outer edge of the brim and add the edge wire . The l same thing may be done to the crown . If too arge, di vi de into halves and lap the edges until it is the

u or req ired size, a piece of material may be added to make the crown larger . The crown may be low

or ered by cutting a piece from the base, raised by addi ng a piece Of heavy material at the base . When a fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found

f u se di ﬁcult to the Old covering, but it can some

b e times done .

BLOCKING OVER WIRE FRAM ES

If n i a buckram frame needs changi g rad cally, it may be done by blockin g over a wire frame made

o r w six f r the pu pose . The ire frame should have sticks instead Of four, and circles not more than one

O or inch apart, shaped as desired . ld new buckram n e te e n b , or any coarse material which has been eav MAKE YOUR OWN HATS

W e t the ily starched, may be used . fabric thor oughly with warm water .

Block the crown ﬁrst . Place the material over the crown and pull it down until all the wrinkles are re

he adsize . moved , pin closely to the wire all around

to When dry, mark with a pencil all around close

he adsi ze on the Wire, remove from the frame , cut the pencil mark and se w a he adsi ze wire on the edge . I f there are marks Of the wire to be removed , hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly

with a hot iron . The brim is managed in the same

wa he adsize off one y . Mark at the , cut at this point

s e w he adsi ze on half inch inside the mark, and a wire

l ark Off the pencil mark . B at the edge wire , cut at

the pencil mark, and ﬁnish with edge wire .

NEW BRIMS FOR OLD CROWNS

o f one If the brim a hat is past renewing , a new

or may be made , the wire brim from an old hat may

an be used with a crown of velvet , or y fabric or

Tlie e - e or straw . wire brim may be r covered with g

— an Old - gette , half worn waist will do nicely, using

or the back or sleeves , any portions that are not too

i s badly worn . When a heavier crown used , the edge Of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like

1 08 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS - it over the spout of a tea kettle of rapidly boiling A water . n assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it is passed back and forth over the steam . The great force o f the steam will raise the pile much more quickly than the method Of using a damp cloth over a hot iron . If the velvet after steaming is found to be still too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain, it may be gathered a half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the

or on brim, it may be mirrored by ironing the right

o e side with a hot iron, always ironing lightly n

. DO i way, using a sweeping motion not let the ron rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark . TO FRESHEN CREPE FOR MOURNING MILLINER" Brush the crepe with a ﬁne brush to remove the dust . Clean in gasoline if necessary . Crepe may be made to look li ke new if pinned down smoothly and on u r evenly a padded s face, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot iron passed over it without touch ‘ it bu t ing , near enough so that a slight amount of R steam will dampen the crepe . emove the cloth and allow the crepe to dry in place . Crepe becomes - shabby looking quickly if not given the best Of care . MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 1 09

C A AN T T F AT S LE NING, CURLING, D IN ING E HER

TO clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which nm has been added a few spoonfuls of cor eal . Draw the feather through the hands several times un til it is clean ; rinse In clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air A i - or till dry. very l ght colored white feather may be tinted by dissolving some Oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing .

flu e s a. To curl, draw the , a very few at time, r f over a blunt knife . A plume is rathe di ficult to se w on a hat and produce the desired eff ect . The e nd of hat the quill may be sewed very firmly to the , while the h p Of the plume should not be sewed i " o st fl . cl se to the hat, otherwise it will look

R IBBON s

t or If soiled, hey may be cleaned in gasoline soap

. DO or w . and water, using a brush not rub ring

H or ang up to drip dry, wind tightly around a bot

D O tle and leave to dry. not press until after

- TO twenty four hours , if cleaned in gasoline . pro

ff o f duce extra sti ness , rinse in a weak solution sugar and water . It is also very easy to change the color Of ribbons by using any of the comm ercial c ’ old dyes . 1 1 0 MAKE YOUR OW N HATS FLOWERS If ﬂowers are faded, they may be touched up - with water color . If they are pink , rouge may be used effectively . If the edges are much frayed, trim G them slightly with the shears . reen leaves may be

arafﬁne or dipped in hot p to restore their gloss ,

arafﬁne E pressed with a warm iron without p . ven very imperfect ﬂowers may be made to look well if

V eiled with maline or georgette .

QU ILLs

Quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and ﬁnger on which a small

or oil A l amount Of vaseline has been placed . qui l may be curved by holding it over the spout Of a tea

of n kettle rapidly boiling water. Place a dull k ife on the underside and press the quill hard enough to

. DO make a sharp dent this every half inch . If the quill is sufﬁciently steamed this may be accompli shed easily, and the result is permanent .

W INGS Loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline or a hair net o f the same color . Wings may be covered with a coat Of shellac

"t he misu sing press

CAMBRIDGE MASSACHUSETTS

U s A