MA " E " OUR OWN HATS B" Tm , GENE ALLEN MARTIN DIRECTOR OF DOMESTIC ARTS DEPARTMENT OF THE MINNEAPOLIS DES IGNER DEMONSTRATO , R AND INSTRUCTOR IN MILLINERY ILLUSTRATED B" E. E. MARTIN BOSTON AND NEW " OR" HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPAN" m) " am using press etambtiuge 1921 FOREWORD - HAT MA" ING i s an art whi ch m ay be acquired by n ss s an di a y one patience d or nary ability . "po e sing To make a hat for the trade is not as difficult as to make one for an individual ; neithe r is it so high x a phase of art. hIan l - y ru es are given for crown height, brim W to f idth, and color, as being suited dif erent types i of faces, but they are so often mislead ng that it ’ nl fe w be com seems best to consider o y a , since the ing ne ss of a hat almost invariably depends u pon minor characteristics of the individual for which r the e are no rules . A girl or wom an with auburn hair may wear — - ea l s nk a grays gray g reen, cr m co or, almon pi ; touch of henn a with gold or orange ; mulberry if the eyes are dark . The woman with dark hair and blue or dark eyes may wear any color if the skin is clear . One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin m may find golden brown, a pale yellow or crea — ~ c olor becoming possi bly a m u lberry if just the r sl ight de pth . A hat with ightly drooping brim vi FOREWORD faced with some shade of rose will add color to the o u l cheeks . N reds sho d be worn unless the skin N of or li is clear . o shade purple he otrope should - be worn by any one having blue eyes it seems to make the blue paler . A ne l s ny o having auburn hair, b ue eye , and a i s clear sk n may wear browns, grays, green , tan, blue, and black . Black should not be worn next nl . I the face u ess the skin is brilliant t is , however, m very beco ing to blondes , and to women whose hair has u i become q te white. A black hat is almost a necessity in every wom ’ e o an s wardrobe, and it may always be made b c m ing by using a facing of some color which is espe — ci ally becoming to the wearer black and whi te is always a smart combination, but very difficu lt to l hand e . — In regard to lines it i s known that a hat with a drooping brim takes from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having round or shoulders a short neck . A hat turned up at the back would be much better . A narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer . A woman -u with a short, turned p nose should avoid a hat FOREWORD vii c turned up too sharply from the fa e . Short people should avoid very wide brims . For the possessor o f a very full, round face the high crown and nar or row brim, a brim which turns up sharply against one s or the crown on ide, all around, should prove u l becoming . A tall, slender woman wo d do well to wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keep one t of ing with her height . There is s yle hat u nl which seems to be, with various modifications , ve rs all 18 y becoming, and that the bicorne, a form o f the Napoleon style of hat . A W fter all, experience is the best teacher . hen l one ever a hat is found to be especia ly becoming, would do well to find ou t just why it is so and o f o . make a note the c lor, size , and general outline These notes are of value if kept for future refer e enc , whether hats are to be made for the shop or i for home mill nery . m wa A hat is seldom beco ing all the y around, but O - the aim should be to make it so . ver ornamenta tion should be guarded against , also too close har mony in color until much experience has been of in gained . A rule by which to judge the becom g ness of a hat and to which there i s no exception is viii FOREWORD — ou this the hat must enhance your looks . If y do n not look more pleasing with it o than with it off , it is not as good a model for you as it might be . In planni ng or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors and outlines which are an outward expression of ourselves . A hat, as well as o f s any article clothing, may expre s many things dejection, happiness , decision, indecision, gayety, or dignity, graciousness, a trained an untrained s mind , forethought, refinement, genero ity, cruelty, o r . H ow we one s a recklessness often hear some y, " l "" That hat looks just ike Mrs . Blank Clothing o f any kind is an index to the pe rsonali ty of the wearer . A friend once said in my presence to a " who was ll saleswoman trying to se her a hat, But I do not fe e l like that hat " The saleswoman re " ’ i it— ou pl ed, That s just y refuse to buy it because not e e l you do f like it, while I tell you that it is i most becom ng . A ll of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most remote idea o f what w as meant, and had a total lack of understand mg. s hou ld o f Clothes be a matter feeling, and this s ame feeling is something vital and shou ld be ca FOREWORD ix te re d to if our garments are to help se t ou r spirits h l we free . W y shou d wear anything which is mis leadi ng in regard to ourselves " Let us look in the mi rror each day and ask ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are . It is important in planni ng a hat to see it in broad dayli ght as well as under artificial light . It should also be tried on in a good light while s tand n be i g before a mirror, as a hat which may seem c mi di o ng while sitting may not be so while stan ng, with the whole figure taken into consideration . ’ To m e own ak one s hats , using up old materials, stimu l ates originality and gives opportunity for expression . It is am azing to see how many new ideas are born when we start out to do something i which we have thought qu te impossible . It all ’ to z helps give added est to life . Making one s own hats appe als to the constructive instinct of every t of woman aside from the mat er thrift, which shou l d always be taken into consideration . Some " w an I m one will say, I ould not wear y hat ight " m e . H ow w u n ak often have e worn becoming hats , i on poor in workmanship , bes des paying some e handsomely for the privilege . Let us try to form x FOREWORD s ome standard by which to judge of the worth of a ’ hat instead of the maker s name . a Before making hat , the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over to see with what the hat of must be worn, and the kind service we are going E to expect from it . very article of a costume ou t should be related and harmonious as to color, l . ine, and suitability The result should be a perfect o whole without a single discord . How ften we see - a green skirt, mustard colored coat, and a bright — t blue hat each ar icle pleasing by itself, but atro ciou s when worn collectively. Bright, gay little hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon o f ne tire o if it must be worn daily . Time and ou r best thought are well Spent in plan ning ou r apparel . The proper clothing gives us c - o f oth onfidence and self respect, and the respect dr ers . To be well essed is to be free from the e thought o f clothes . W judge and are judged by the clothes we wear— they are an outward expres for u s sion of ourselves , and speak , while we must remain silent . " — Simplicity is the keynote of beauty no one article of clothing should stand ou t too cons picu FOREW ORD xi h a u nl s . Nat o sly, u ess it i the hat ure uses bright s ou color sparingly . If y look at a plant, you find it dark near the ground, growing lighter near the top with its green leaves , and then the blossom ; to E the glory is at the p . verything in nature e l k u l t aches us to oo p.