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Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh Why Go? Gwalior . 613 The vast but unassuming state of Madhya Pradesh (MP) Orchha . .618 doesn’t roar for attention like its more celebrated neigh- bours. Instead it growls deeply from within, off ering the Khajuraho . .623 promise of something big and beautiful for those prepared Bhopal . .633 to prowl the plains. Pachmarhi . .643 Tiger parks are the star attraction, and your chances of Ujjain . .646 spotting a wild tiger here are good, but lesser-known trea- Indore . .648 sures abound: Khajuraho’s temples display some of the fi n- est temple art in the world and are the architectural high- Omkareshwar . 651 light of a region scattered with ruined palaces, majestic hill- Maheshwar . .653 top forts, ancient Buddhist stupas and India’s biggest and Mandu . .654 smallest mosques. Jabalpur . .658 Laidback traveller havens like Orchha and Omkareshwar add some chill-out fl avour to the region, but the more ad- Chhattisgarh . 664 venturous will love a foray into tribal Chhattisgarh, which Jagdalpur . .666 split from Madhya Pradesh in 2000 and remains a world far removed from mainstream Indian culture. Best Places to Eat When to Go » Raja’s Café (p 630 ) Bhopal » Bapu Ki Kutia (p 636 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Didi’s Cafe (p 622 ) 40/104 32/800 » Girnar Thali Restaurant 24/600 (p 665 ) 20/68 » Shivam Restaurant (p 647 ) 16/400 0/32 8/200 Best Places to -20/-4 0 Stay J FDNOSAJJMAM » Orchha Homestay (p 622 ) Nov–Feb Most Apr–Jun Best Jul–Sep Monsoon » Evelyn’s Own (p 645 ) pleasant time to chance of spot- time, but places » Labboo’s Cafe (p 653 ) visit central India, ting tigers; veg- like Chhattisgarh although hilltops etation is thin and are at their most » Manu Guest House (p652 ) will still be chilly. water sources beautiful. » Hotel Sheesh Mahal (p 621) are few. Food & Drink MAIN POINTS OF The combined region of Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh ENTRY is enormous so, naturally, food varies across the land. Bho- No international air- pal produces some exquisite meat and fi sh dishes as well as ports here, but the some great biryanis and kebabs. In the dryer regions of the main cities – Bhopal, north and west, you’ll fi nd more wheat-based foods and less Indore, Jabalpur and rice. There’s wonderful fruit to be had, especially in the lush Raipur – plus big south and southeast regions – mangoes and custard apples tourist spots such as are the highlights – and those brave enough to venture to Khajuraho are con- the tribal markets of Chhattisgarh will see locals eating live nected by rail and air ants. The favourite tipple, meanwhile, is a liquor made from to one or more of Delhi, the fl owers of the mahuwa tree, which you’d be advised to Mumbai (Bombay) and drink with caution – it’s potent. Kolkata (Calcutta). DON’T MISS Fast Facts Madhya Pradesh is bursting at the seams with fabulous places to visit, but two things you really shouldn’t leave » Population: 72.6 million without seeing (or at least attempting to see) are the (Madhya Pradesh), 25.5 exquisite temples of Khajuraho and India’s most mag- million (Chhattisgarh) nifi cent creature – the tiger. » Area: 308,000 sq km (Madhya Pradesh), 135,000 sq km (Chhattisgarh) Top State Festivals » Capital: Bhopal (Madhya Pradesh), Raipur (Chhat- » Festival of Dance (Feb/Mar, Khajuraho, p 623 ) Week-long tisgarh) event with the cream of Indian classical dancers performing » Main languages: Hindi, amid floodlit temples. regional tribal languages » Shivaratri Mela (Feb/Mar, Pachmarhi, p 643 ) Up to » Sleeping prices: $ below 100,000 Shaivite pilgrims, sadhus (spiritual men) and ₹500, $$ ₹500 to ₹2500, Adivasis (tribal people) attend celebrations at Mahadeo $$$ above ₹2500 Temple. Participants bring symbolic tridents and hike up » Eating prices: $ dishes Chauragarh Hill to plant them by the Shiva shrine. below ₹50, $$ ₹50 to ₹100, » Magh Mela (Apr/May, Ujjain, p 646) Huge annual religious $$$ above ₹100 fair held on the banks of the Shipra River at Ujjain; pilgrim numbers increase dramatically every 12th year for the mas- sive Kumbh Mela (next held in Ujjain in 2016). Top Tip » Ahilyabai Holkar’s Birthday (Apr/May, Maheshwar, p 653 ) If you’re serious about see- The Holkar queen’s birthday is celebrated with palanquin ing a tiger, plan and budget (enclosed seats carried on poles on four men’s shoulders) for at least three days of processions through the town. jeep safaris, with two safaris » Navratri (Sep/Oct, Ujjain, p 647 )The Festival of Nine each day. Nights, leading up to Dussehra, is celebrated with particular fervour in Ujjain. Lamps on the large pillars in Harsiddhi Resources Mandir are lit. » Dussehra (Oct, Jagdalpur, p 666 ) Dedicated to local god- » Madhya Pradesh Tourist dess Danteshwari, this 75-day festival culminates in eight Board (www.mptourism days of (immense) chariot-pulling around the streets. .com) » Tansen Music Festival (Nov/Dec, Gwalior, p 616 ) Four-day » Chhattisgarh Tourist music festival attracting classical musicians and singers Board (www.chhattisgarh from all over India; free performances are usually staged tourism.net) at the tomb of Tansen, one of the most revered composer- » Tiger protection www musicians of Hindustani classical music. .saveourtigers.com.
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