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Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh

Why Go? Gwalior ...... 613 The vast but unassuming state of (MP) ...... 618 doesn’t roar for attention like its more celebrated neigh- bours. Instead it growls deeply from within, off ering the Khajuraho ...... 623 promise of something big and beautiful for those prepared Bhopal ...... 633 to prowl the plains. Pachmarhi ...... 643 Tiger parks are the star attraction, and your chances of ...... 646 spotting a wild tiger here are good, but lesser-known trea- Indore ...... 648 sures abound: Khajuraho’s temples display some of the fi n- est temple art in the world and are the architectural high- Omkareshwar ...... 651 light of a region scattered with ruined palaces, majestic hill- Maheshwar ...... 653 top forts, ancient Buddhist stupas and ’s biggest and Mandu ...... 654 smallest mosques. Jabalpur ...... 658 Laidback traveller havens like Orchha and Omkareshwar add some chill-out fl avour to the region, but the more ad- Chhattisgarh ...... 664 venturous will love a foray into tribal Chhattisgarh, which Jagdalpur ...... 666 split from Madhya Pradesh in 2000 and remains a world far removed from mainstream Indian culture. Best Places to Eat When to Go » Raja’s Café (p 630 ) Bhopal » Bapu Ki Kutia (p636 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Didi’s Cafe (p 622 ) 40/104 32/800

» Girnar Thali Restaurant 24/600 (p665 ) 20/68 » Shivam Restaurant (p647 ) 16/400 0/32 8/200 Best Places to -20/-4 0 Stay J FDNOSAJJMAM » Orchha Homestay (p 622 ) Nov–Feb Most Apr–Jun Best Jul–Sep Monsoon » Evelyn’s Own (p 645 ) pleasant time to chance of spot- time, but places » Labboo’s Cafe (p 653 ) visit central India, ting tigers; veg- like Chhattisgarh although hilltops etation is thin and are at their most » Manu Guest House (p652 ) will still be chilly. water sources beautiful. » Hotel Sheesh Mahal (p621 ) are few.

Food & Drink MAIN POINTS OF The combined region of Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh ENTRY is enormous so, naturally, food varies across the land. Bho- No international air- pal produces some exquisite meat and fi sh dishes as well as ports here, but the some great biryanis and kebabs. In the dryer regions of the main cities – Bhopal, north and west, you’ll fi nd more wheat-based foods and less Indore, Jabalpur and rice. There’s wonderful fruit to be had, especially in the lush Raipur – plus big south and southeast regions – mangoes and custard apples tourist spots such as are the highlights – and those brave enough to venture to Khajuraho are con- the tribal markets of Chhattisgarh will see locals eating live nected by rail and air ants. The favourite tipple, meanwhile, is a liquor made from to one or more of , the fl owers of the mahuwa tree, which you’d be advised to Mumbai (Bombay) and drink with caution – it’s potent. Kolkata (Calcutta).

DON’T MISS Fast Facts Madhya Pradesh is bursting at the seams with fabulous places to visit, but two things you really shouldn’t leave » Population: 72.6 million without seeing (or at least attempting to see) are the (Madhya Pradesh), 25.5 exquisite temples of Khajuraho and India’s most mag- million (Chhattisgarh) nifi cent creature – the tiger. » Area: 308,000 sq km (Madhya Pradesh), 135,000 sq km (Chhattisgarh) Top State Festivals » Capital: Bhopal (Madhya Pradesh), Raipur (Chhat- » Festival of Dance (Feb/Mar, Khajuraho, p 623 ) Week-long tisgarh) event with the cream of Indian classical dancers performing » Main languages: Hindi, amid floodlit temples. regional tribal languages » Shivaratri Mela (Feb/Mar, Pachmarhi, p 643 ) Up to » Sleeping prices: $ below 100,000 Shaivite pilgrims, sadhus (spiritual men) and ₹500, $$ ₹500 to ₹2500, Adivasis (tribal people) attend celebrations at Mahadeo $$$ above ₹2500 Temple. Participants bring symbolic tridents and hike up » Eating prices: $ dishes Chauragarh Hill to plant them by the shrine. below ₹50, $$ ₹50 to ₹100, » Magh Mela (Apr/May, Ujjain, p 646 ) Huge annual religious $$$ above ₹100 fair held on the banks of the Shipra River at Ujjain; pilgrim numbers increase dramatically every 12th year for the mas- sive Kumbh Mela (next held in Ujjain in 2016). Top Tip » Ahilyabai Holkar’s Birthday (Apr/May, Maheshwar, p 653 ) If you’re serious about see- The Holkar queen’s birthday is celebrated with palanquin ing a tiger, plan and budget (enclosed seats carried on poles on four men’s shoulders) for at least three days of processions through the town. jeep safaris, with two safaris » Navratri (Sep/Oct, Ujjain, p 647 )The Festival of Nine each day. Nights, leading up to Dussehra, is celebrated with particular fervour in Ujjain. Lamps on the large pillars in Harsiddhi Resources Mandir are lit. » Dussehra (Oct, Jagdalpur, p666 ) Dedicated to local god- » Madhya Pradesh Tourist dess Danteshwari, this 75-day festival culminates in eight Board (www.mptourism days of (immense) chariot-pulling around the streets. .com) » Tansen Music Festival (Nov/Dec, Gwalior, p 616 ) Four-day » Chhattisgarh Tourist music festival attracting classical musicians and singers Board (www.chhattisgarh from all over India; free performances are usually staged tourism.net) at the tomb of Tansen, one of the most revered composer- » Tiger protection www musicians of Hindustani classical music. .saveourtigers.com