CORRESPONDENT

DOVER STREET MARKET

Spring 2016

ISSUE 12 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT CONTENTS

06 – 11 13 – 28 ICA: Betty Woodman Dover Street Market

04 32 Editor’s Letter Hilditch & Key On joining forces to Shirtmakers a cut above the stand out from the crowd. cookie cutter conglomerates.

04 33 From the Archives Collars and Cuffs Why for any noble gentleman A guide to the what, when and there is no better way to restore one’s why of shirtmaking styles from honour than to risk one’s life for it. Hilditch & Key.

05 34 – 35 Village News 67 Pall Mall St James’s in a five-minute read. We get all mushy about St James’s first gentlemen’s club in nearly a 06 – 11 hundred years.

ICA: Betty Woodman 36 – 38 Hear why Art World dirty words ‘decorative’ and ‘domestic’ have never had The Rise and Fall, and such contemporary resonance. Rise Again of Haymarket 32 12 From the serene to the surreal, Hilditch & Key the story of this up and coming Calendar London street. Fashion, art and food events to 39 put a spring in your step.

13 – 28 Team St James’s Andy Nutt on how to crack the Dover Street Market new business breed of St James’s Our special collaborative, office occupier. commemorative, covetable insert to 40 mark their move to Haymarket. 30 – 31 Property 30 – 31 Caroline Rush St James’s Market looks set Caroline Rush to launch this Spring. On why there are no rules.

36 – 38 The Rise and Fall, and Rise Again of Haymarket

stjameslondon.co.uk [email protected] @_stjameslondon Commissioned by St James’s London. The Crown Estate, 16 New Burlington Place London, W1S 2HX thecrownestate.co.uk

Cover illustration by James Graham Design and editorial by dn&co.

02 03 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT VILLAGE NEWS

To p: Herdwick lamb leg, salsa verde and smoked aubergine from Cafe Two-Michelin-starred Aquavit Murano’s ‘Pranzo della Domenica' menu to open first UK restaurant in

Middle: 'Species' sofa by St James’s Market Fredrikson Stallard, from the Gravity exhibition at David Gill Gallery New York’s preeminent Nordic restaurant, Aquavit, has

Below: announced it will be opening a large dining space in St James’s Smeg dual fuel range Market. With exquisite cuisine that balances a conviction to try cooker with gas hob new techniques and ingredients with a deep respect for tradition Opposite: Illustrations by and seasonality, this is exciting news indeed for connoisseurs of James Graham fine dining. Visit stjameslondon.co.uk for the latest news on the Get familia with Cafe Murano’s West End’s most anticipated food destination. new Sunday menu aquavit.org @aquavitnyc Cafe Murano recently launched their new ‘Pranzo della Domenica’ menu at their St James’s Street restaurant. Owner Angela Hartnett created the Sunday Lunch menu with executive head chef Sam Williams, as a nod to the traditional family meals of her childhood, designed more as social occasions then just a few fresh dishes. From shared, roasted cuts of Herdwick lamb leg to the bowls of Murano’s famously silky pasta made daily by the chefs and the newly introduced ‘Harry’s Bar’ toasted sandwich inspired by the famous Venetian bistro – these Sunday dishes are all prepared with Hartnett’s signature style of simple, seasonal Italian cooking.

cafemurano.co.uk Prince purchases sculptural @cafemuranostj sofa before official opening at David Gill Gallery Swiss bike brand ASSOS rides into EDITOR’S LETTER St James’s Market with a UK first One of the most eye-catching pieces at the Fredrikson Stallard ‘Gravity show at David Gill Gallery is the ‘Species Sofa.’ So Fashion Foreword ASSOS, the high-end cycling clothing brand, is to open its first eye-catching in fact that a foreign prince – we are sworn to flagship store outside Switzerland in St James’s Market. Roche secrecy on his name – came in to purchase it before the show There are those neighbours you’ll never forget. The Maier, Createur at the Swiss company, said, “St James’s had even opened. Made from carved and chainsawed ever-patient retired couple who helped out taking reputation for high quality, bespoke craftsmanship fits perfectly polyurethane coated in subtle strands of coloured polyester, parcels or holding a spare set of keys for (fairly with our core values. We’re excited to be opening at St James’s which give it the quality of a Rothko painting, the piece-of-art frequent) emergencies. Or the crotchety gentleman Market… a store that we call “Manga Yio.” According to a report sofa appears more like a chunk of molten rock than your living on the corner who once reversed over our bikes that last year, one-in-four Brits now cycle regularly, the highest room settee. Thankfully, the material ingeniously bends and glorious summer. And then there’s the exciting number in decades. Alongside The Bike Rooms and Bespoke stretches to fit your figure as you sit. arrival of new neighbours… Cycling, ASSOS will also add to St James’s burgeoning range of As any area of London can testify, new neighbours davidgillgallery.com quality cycling shops – this upsurge in popularity looks set to can signal important changes for a neighbourhood @dgillgallery change how we see an area usually famed for its promenades. in how it will come to be seen and valued. Imagine then our complete teenage-scream level excitement assos.com @assos_com with the news that beyond-outré fashion cosmonauts COMME des GARÇONS would be upping sticks and One of London’s oldest relaunching their superstore and high concept retail galleries Colnaghi to open space Dover Street Market on Haymarket, just opposite the new St James’s Market. FROM THE ARCHIVES in new Duke Street space This issue then is our basket of muffins, our potted A century after the firm moved from Pall Mall to Mayfair, plant, our housewarming party. Working together on A Favourite Spot for Duelling Colnaghi will return to St James’s in 2016 with a new this special edition and insert, we have come to see 4,000 sq ft exhibition space, which is part of the 26 Bury Street how much Dover Street Market and St James’s already Duels were an important part of 17th and 18th so vigorous that they can still be heard on the redevelopment due to complete in early summer. In the heart have in common. From a shared appreciation of century social life. For a noble gentleman there anniversary of the fight. of the gallery will sit the company’s celebrated and highly design classics – with heritage Swedish bucket bags was no better way to restore one’s honour than Perhaps more famous was the duel involving treasured library and, most exciting for Colnaghi Chairman and Post-War-inspired spectacles included in the top demonstrating a willingness to risk one’s life for it. Lord Hervey, a professional politician and Konrad Bernheimer, is a huge street-level window to attract DSM products shoot on page 18 – to shared friends On a spring evening in 1696, Sir Henry Dutton Colt, ambitious courtier, whose witty propagandist passers-by. The increased size of the gallery and its bespoke and mutual admirers, as Chief Exec of the British Baronetcy of St James’s-in-the-Fields, challenged pamphlets promoting Walpole’s Whig ministry Smeg to open its door to St James’s design will allow Colnaghi to have several exhibition spaces, Fashion Council Caroline Rush shares her particular the rakish Robert “Beau” Fielding, a notorious provoked politician William Pulteney into nasty and offers them the opportunity to present a wider range of take on DSM’s move on page 30. figure known for duelling, gambling and bedding innuendo about Hervey’s personal life. Hervey with new lifestyle concept store their international Old Master paintings, sculptures and We can all be a bit precious about our own corner mistresses. The location, behind Bridgewater House responded to this libel by challenging Pulteney to drawings. The 255-year-old gallery with a distinguished Joining St James’s Market will be iconic Italian upmarket of the world, and St James’s is no exception. We are on Cleveland Row, was chosen by Fielding who a duel behind Arlington Street. reputation should prove an exciting addition to St James’s fridge-maker Smeg. An entirely new retail concept will allow ever thankful for an enthusiastic following that wished to fight like the knights of old – under the At four o’clock on Monday 25 January 1730, the dazzling art gallery line-up. customers to experience the whole range of products with shirks the ‘High Street’ and who drives their own beautiful eyes of his mistress and future wife, the duellists stripped to their shirts – though it was an appliances and fittings that reflect the Smeg lifestyle, while sartorial path away from mass consumerism and notorious Barbara Palmer, 1st Duchess of Cleveland. icy morning and snow covered the ground – and colnaghi.com offering the opportunity for increased customisation. Vittorio towards both bespoke clothing and a bespoke With a standard dueller’s rapier – a sharp, slender drew their swords. It was a somewhat foolish act by Bertazzoni, CEO of Smeg, said, “between historic landmarks, lifestyle. But as paragons of internationalism and sword suited to thrusting attacks – in hand, Fielding Hervey, who was quickly led from the field having St James’s – a premium world class destination – is the perfect individualism, new neighbours Dover Street Market ran Sir Henry through before he had time to draw fainted from ‘a slight wound in his side and four or choice to welcome our UK flagship store, which will thrive in offer us a timely reminder that for this pocket of his weapon. However Fielding’s none-too-bright five nicks on the hand,’ while Pulteney, with only such elegant and distinctive architectural surroundings, London it will never be about keeping up with the reputation held true: the baronet, despite his one cut on his hand, strutted away victorious. The mirroring very much the family values of Smeg.” Jones’s or the Kardashians, but about keeping the wound, easily disarmed Fielding and so ended Grub Street hacks seized on it and within days had resolve and commitment to our bold vision for the the duel. It was said that the grunts and heavy parodied the clash in numerous lampoons and smeguk.com future of fashion in St James’s. breathing coming from these combatants were limericks, broadsheets and ballads. @smeguk

04 05 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT ICA: BETTY WOODMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY Ivan Jones

BETTY WOODMAN: THE THEATRE OF THE DOMESTIC

The Institute of Contemporary Arts kicks off their seventieth year with the works of an 85-year-old artist. We caught up with co-curators Katherine Stout and Vincenzo de Bellis to find out what is curation and ask why Betty, why ceramics, and why now?

06 07 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT ICA: BETTY WOODMAN

CORRESPONDENT For the ICA’s first show C And how do you go about finding, look like this, sculpture has to look like in its seventieth year, how did you decide discovering, deciding artists – does taste this. But going back and saying what on Betty and how did it all come about? come into it? Or is it purely objective? about these guys that you missed who KATHERINE STOUT Vincenzo approached KS Well you know it’s… it’s a were really interesting at the time? the ICA about Betty a year ago and we complicated question. Of course there It is confusing and there’s a lot of it, immediately responded. What really are some artists I like more than others, and you have to find your own path drew us was this work from the last ten but I’ve been working in contemporary through it. years; how fresh the work feels, how art for over 20 years now and you vibrant it is, but also how it resonates accumulate knowledge. We spend a lot of C And how do you choose what to with how much younger artists are now time just seeing a lot of art – we’re very show at the ICA? working. And also to rectify what seemed much specialists in our subjects. And KS There are basic things like not only to be a wrong – that she’s never had a solo with all that experience, we know what showing video art for the whole year! institutional show in the UK. really is new, and not what someone else Our first test is always why would we do VINCENZO DE BELLIS I wanted to present was actually doing 30 years ago… this here at the ICA that maybe they Betty’s work not in an encyclopaedic VB …it matters where you work. If you wouldn’t do somewhere else? Or, why museum: I wanted a space where she are in the modern museum context then does it feel really urgent? And probably could be presented as she is – a great you ask what could last forever as to take some risks – identify those that artist that’s really doing something very opposed to what needs to be seen now. are really pushing at the boundaries, fresh even though she’s 86… I come from a more contemporary whether that’s in terms of the subject KS She’s 85! practice than that. I have a not-for-profit matter they’re tackling, or, as with VB You’re right! 86 soon, but she space in Milan, Peep-Hole Art Center, and Betty’s case, taking ceramics somewhere deserves to be credited at 85! She’s been also run the Milan art fair, Miart, and new and fresh. working for exactly 50 years and this is have never had that feeling of thinking, the ICA’s 70th year, so it seemed perfect. considering what will the future look like C So you’re saying that even though And Betty and I always felt this was the for a collection. It is always connected to she is an established artist, there is real perfect space. just reading, flitting the pages of what is contemporary value to Betty, which is KS She’s very interested in our happening in your world and you try to why it’s happening here and now? architecture. Original Nash, these focus on what is more interesting for you. KS Absolutely! We’re not a museum: upper galleries are very ornate and And we talk a lot to each other as we don’t have the responsibility of classical, but then our lower gallery colleagues; we share ideas. putting people in art history. We’re has a much more concrete ’60s feel. KS Yeah, it doesn’t come out of aware of all that context but it’s very And she’s responded by making this nowhere! You’re not just on your own. much being… like a lens offering a view major new piece especially for the ICA, And then there’s also trying to rewrite a on and reflecting what is contemporary. and much larger scale than she’s bit of history from when it was very And that was your interest as well… necessarily made before. prescriptive ideas: well painting has to VB Yah, when you choose an artist you

08 09 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT ICA: BETTY WOODMAN

“A more generic audience is just going to see a Picasso show but we want them to look at what people are doing now.”

always make sure you know that you can domestic, and decorative as well. But of a really good meeting place basically. change something with a show. I’m not course don’t forget that in the ’60s and It’s always had that at its core, as a place saying you’ll change their career, but you ’70s, “decorative” was a dirty word, that to come and encounter things and also are underlining the role of that artist. was the worst insult, but now it’s very talk and hang out in the bar and discuss, It may be a young artist and you celebratory and deliberately, you know, and that gives it a really strong energy. underline what he’s doing now. Or with a being decorative and colour and that’s more experienced artist, you look more what people are really responding to. C Does it feel right that it’s here, into all of his or her practice. In this case, in St James’s? we’ve approached Betty as a young artist. C How much do you consider KS It’s been here since ‘68 and it has popular opinion? this sort of frisson – we’ve got the Queen, C So it’s the opposite of a grand KS At the ICA we think about what’s we’ve got government, and we’re here retrospective? going to bring in an audience and be of doing quite radical, weird things! And KS Yeah, the latest contemporary art interest to the public; we’re not just doing also, we’re very aware that in London it’s can be made by twenty-year-olds that we it for our own personal interest. It has to very much changing, and, in particular, show very often or by an 85 year-old – resonate beyond. younger initiatives are being pushed out, it’s the work. VB A good part of our role is to bring so to have a cultural offer right in the culture to a wider audience, because you heart of London is even more important C I know she had flowers in the know a more generic audience is just than it used to be – we’re at this very vases in previous shows – how much does going to see a Picasso show but we want central point to the city and that’s the usefulness of these objects come them to look at what people are doing actually really important right now. into the work? now. And filtering things so that they’re VB You can think about a vase as a more sexy or interesting for people that sculpture or you can use it to just put don’t have the same vocabulary that we flowers in. And it doesn’t really change might have. That’s our job. for her – it’s always a work of art. And then according to where you place or C Katherine, how do you feel about show them, they change the feeling that working at the ICA? they have. In this case, we really worked KS It’s an extraordinary place to work. on showing them as sculptures and what It’s got an extraordinary history and this they have been, not only for her, but for is the first exhibition in our seventieth artists since 5,000 years ago. year, so it’s quite daunting: it showed KS But it’s also relevant to these works Damien Hirst for the first time, it showed to present ceramics in a domestic setting, Francis Bacon for the first time, etc, so as functional objects on a table, as with there’s a lot to live up to. Prem Sahib, an this canvas behind us. But she’s controlled artist I worked with very recently was ICA The Mall, SW1Y 5AH it. They’re within an environment that saying that you might come and bump ica.org.uk she’s created. The subject is the into a friend at a film, or a music gig. It’s @icalondon

10 11 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT

CORRESPONDENT

DOVER STREET MARKET Alexander Calder at Bernard Jacobson Gallery Jacobson Calder at Bernard Alexander Gallery Jacobson Henri Matisse at Bernard

Bonheur Sakura by Day, How the Other The Comedy de Vivre Yozakura by Night Half Loves About a Bank 17 March – 27 May 21 March – 18 June 23 March ongoing Robbery Bernard Jacobson Gallery Sake No Hana Theatre Royal Haymarket 28 Duke Street, SW1Y 6AG 23 St James’s Street, SW1A 1HA 18 Suffolk Street, SW1Y 4HT 31 March – 2 October Criterion Theatre Named after the seminal Henri Japanese restaurant Sake No Alan Ayckbourn’s celebrated tale 218 – 223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB Matisse painting Le Bonheur Hana will be welcoming in Spring of matrimonial indiscretion How de Vivre, this exhibition of 16 with the return of their sakura The Other Half Loves receives a Situated beneath Piccadilly works draws some of Bernard cherry blossom garden. Taking deserved major West End revival Circus, this lovingly restored

Selected Spring Events Jacobson’s most loved painters over the bamboo-ceilinged Ni Ju at the Theatre Royal Haymarket. Victorian theatre hosts the of the twentieth century together San bar with intertwining cherry An all-star cast including Olivier Mischief Theatre Company’s next for an unashamed celebration blossom branches, woven Award nominated stage and comedic masterpiece. Written by of playfulness, beauty and joy. entrances, and even real falling screen actor Nicholas Le Prevost, Henry Lewis, Jonathan Sayer and Starting with three remarkable petals, this is a fitting tribute in TV icon Tamzin Outhwaite, and Henry Shields – who brought you light-filled paintings by Matisse, the heart of St James’s to the BAFTA nominated Matthew the Olivier Award-winning Best the show traces the revolution in most Japanese of seasons. Cottle, perform this hysterically New Comedy The Play That art that sprang from Le Bonheur Inspired by hanami, the funny and heart-wrenchingly Goes Wrong and Peter Pan Goes de Vivre through the work of Joan centuries-old Japanese painful story centred on Bob and Wrong – what could possibly not Miró, Alexander Calder, Sam tradition of celebrating the Fiona’s clumsy affair and their go right in their engaging riff on Francis and Robert Motherwell. fleeting cherry blossom by disastrous attempts to cover it a bank robbery? Involving an Underlying each painting, reading poetry, the restaurant up. Laughter springs from enormous diamond, six whether Fauvist or abstract, is has also constructed a limited Ayckbourn’s perfected mix of incompetent crooks, and a a devotion and veneration of edition Sakura menu, which situation, character, absurdity snoozing security guard, the colour: “Colour above all, and comes gifted with a haiku and social satire as the three scene is set for another raucous perhaps even more than drawing, written by one of the famed couples resolve the situation evening at one of London’s best is a means of liberation... Colour is haiku masters and printed onto over two calamitous dinner loved and time-honoured venues. never a question of quantity, but a paper petal. For added effect, parties on successive nights. of choice…” declared visit at night when twinkling Alan Strachan directs. Tel. +44 (0)20 7839 8811 Spring 2016 Matisse. Expect canvasses lights within the blossom will criterion-theatre.co.uk bathed in brightness and create an intimate yozakura Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 8800 @critheatre uncontained rhapsody. atmosphere. Without doubt the trh.co.uk only place to be genuinely @trh_london Tel. +44 (0)20 7734 3431 spirited away this spring. jacobsongallery.com @jacobsongallery Tel. +44 (0)20 7925 8988 sakenohana.com @sakenohana

12 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT DOVER STREET MARKET 10 things we should all know about the new Dover Street Market on Haymarket.

06 DSM is moving. The original store was located at its namesake, Dover Street in Mayfair; initially the home of The Institute of Contemporary Art. It will now re-open on Haymarket in St James’s, in the original Burberry headquarters. The building was designed by architect Walter Cave in 1913. 07 Each store undergoes a bi-annual “tachiagari”. This means ‘beginning’ or ‘start’ in Japanese. The store completely closes down and is reworked and reborn with fresh collections, interior spaces and minutely curated stands. This process is an unmistakable sign of CDG’s unique commitment to growth and change. 08 They “like things that are sometimes under the radar” (Joffe, AnOther). Joffe and Kawakubo aren’t afraid to support the work of emerging designers. So, whether it’s a new line of jewellery, 01 Dover Street Market, or “DSM”, is revered for clothing or trainers, you can find new lights Molly its forward thinking attitude. Started in 2004 by Goddard, Gosha Rubchinskiy and Craig Green, COMME des GARÇONS, DSM is run by designer to name a few. Rei Kawakubo and her partner Adrian Joffe. 09 New season, new artworks. Although rails for Kawakubo is responsible for the concept and visual the clothes are a necessity, everything possible has elements, while Joffe oversees the ins and outs of been done to reinvent this format. Art installations running the stores. created by select designers are built to house the 02 DSM is ‘Built Upon Beautiful Chaos’. In any products in imaginative, purpose-built sets. DSM store you’ll find a wonderful mixture of 10 It’s not just about shopping. Kawakubo’s products, from high-end designer clothing and vision is to create a social hub: “I want to create a kind one-off pieces of couture to streetwear, jewellery of market where various creators gather together and and books. Spaces avoid categorisation, and instead encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of allow you to explore their content in a beautifully beautiful chaos.” (Rei Kawakubo, Dezeen). rambling arrangement. 03 These are concept stores. Concept stores sell a vision and a lifestyle. The space is curated from head-to-toe; tailored and personalised to their visitors. All elements, from products to interior design, feed into this completely unique experience. 04 They don’t just stock COMME des Cover illustration: GARÇONS. They provide an inclusive platform for A parade of Dover Street Market shoppers by other brands and designers. Although their list of James Graham suppliers is constantly evolving, you can expect to Opposite, top: find leading fashion brands such as Alaïa, Céline, The new store under construction, image Simone Rocha and Rick Owens. courtesy Ryan O’Toole Collett for Dover Street Market 05 It all started in London. But, twelve years

Opposite, below: later, stores can also be found in Beijing, Ginza Black COMME des GARÇONS and New York. Their choice of unestablished retail unveiled at the new Dover Street Market locations caused concern, but Joffe and Kawakubo, as ever, remained unfazed: “It’s risky, but leading is Dover Street Market Above: 18 – 22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG COMME des GARÇONS not something that we’ve ever been afraid of.” Pocket Shop at the new doverstreetmarket.com Dover Street Market (Joffe,Business of Fashion) @doverstreetmarketlondon

14 15 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT DOVER STREET MARKET Adrian Joffe we talk to the president of Dover Street Market on what shoppers should expect from this most unexpected of shops.

correspondent Why Haymarket? Why now? including renovating, restoring and enhancing the adrian joffe Quite simply, we needed a bigger space central staircase. Other spaces and corners, we have and our rent had doubled. allocated to other brands, who have been left free to c How do you describe the building? What did design as they wish. you see in it? aj The new store is a Grade II listed c How do you approach finding new talent to building – it was built in 1912 as the original showcase through DSM? aj We enjoy working headquarters of Burberry – and so aesthetically with emerging talents and giving them a platform different to our original space. It is also nearly three to showcase their brands. It’s very much part of our times larger. The size was important for us, but also DNA and we are always looking for new and the feeling, history and design of the building were exciting people to collaborate with. The crucial factors. It was just an empty building, with relationships with all our co-conspirators is the the upper floors all partitioned off. We brought it most important thing about DSM. back to an empty shell and proceeded to restore its c How do you see your customers using the former glory. new space? aj Many customers and visitors to the c What has been your design and renovation store plan to meet friends, both to shop and also to process? aj We have tried our uttermost to respect eat and drink in the Rose Bakery. We think our the building in every way. There are no false customers will be excited and intrigued by the new ceilings and down lights, for example, as we wanted location – change is necessary and important. Our to show the existing and original ceiling. We like to new location is simply another part of the think we have enhanced it. When we opened the evolution of DSM. doors on 19 March, we hoped that customers would c We’ve heard the DSM family describe be able to see the original elements still very much themselves as shopkeepers – tell us more about present in the interiors – as well as some exciting that. aj DSM is run as a family; it’s important that carefully-positioned additions. we all have a strong and personal vision, which c What can visitors expect from the new translates to the teams’ roles within the business. space? How does the extra space allow you to c Can you share some of your favourite express the Dover Street Market ethos further? memories of the Dover Street store? What will aj The new store has new and current brands, with be left behind? aj There have been too many to spaces from established designers such as Alaïa, mention. And nothing will be left behind. Céline, Gucci, Dior, The Row, Paul Smith and The iconic spirit of the old one will live on in the Margaret Howell, to younger brands like Vetements, new DSM in the form of the hut, and various Gosha, Molly Goddard and Craig Green. Of course metallic installations, which will be transformed there is also all the COMME des GARÇONS brands, but recognisable as coming from the old DSM. and plenty of ever changing surprises. c What are your thoughts on St James’s – The extra space means we can explore more the area and its brand of retail? aj We are excited opportunities with brands and expand our vision. to arrive on Haymarket and the St James’s area. As The main new features are the artworks of Dover Street has changed dramatically over the last Kawakubo – including the dinosaur, and the frozen 12 years, no doubt Haymarket will also over time. waterfall ceiling on the first floor – and the There are some amazing projects being discussed Above: architecture artwork space also on the first floor. for St James’s already that we are looking forward Adrian Joffe, President of COMME des GARÇONS, There’s the intervention of other lighting artists as to being part of. image courtesy of Thomas Lohr well, such as Pedro Cabrita Reis on the second floor,

Opposite, top: and Thierry Dreyfus in the basement. Junya Watanabe at c Tell us about the people involved in Dover Street Market conceiving the new store. aj Overall, the Dover Opposite, below: Ground floor Bag Space Street Market on Haymarket has been designed by at Dover Street Market, Rei Kawakubo, who designs all the COMME des images courtesy of Dover Street Market GARÇONS spaces, and all the common areas,

16 17 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT DOVER STREET MARKET

As with all things COMME des GARÇONS, when designing fragrances the goal was to create Unwrapped something completely new. Their scents offer a range, from collaborations with designer Hussein Chalayan to the tactile pebble bottle of Wonderwood, or from the incense-inspired aromas of ‘2’ to the light and floral‘3’ . There is even notes of brown sticky tape found within CDG original. Working towards simulating the addictive effects of coffee or cigarettes; they create Dover Street Market is packing “perfumes that work like a medicine and behave like a drug”. up and moving to St James’s. Confronted with a totally fresh start, here are our eight must-haves from the new store. This is the short-list, fresh out the wrapping.

PHOTOGRAPHY Baker & Evans

SET DESIGN Isabel + Helen

ART DIRECTION dn&co.

18 19 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT DOVER STREET MARKET

Labour and Wait is a brand built upon timeless everyday essentials. There is beauty, Inspired by the life-affirming creativity of post-war generations, Native Sons’ eyewear quality and utility in all their products and their store has a post-war styling, which is for the rebel, the tastemaker and the restless soul. Here, the ‘Seeger’ silver aged-wire conjures up nostalgia for the recent past. Thewhite plastic bucket bag was first created frames with polarized lenses are photographed on inflatable plastic cushioning. This in the ’50s and yet has a clean-lined aesthetic, rare in even the newest of products. design is inspired by the 20th Century composer Charles Seeger, who wore a similar Thanks to their tradition of practical Swedish design, this bag is made of frame. Built-to-last, with long-diamond-tolled core wires and traditional arrow- recyclable plastic and will endure ‘whatever-the-weather’. shaped hinging, these glasses are an ode to the functionality of the past.

20 21 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT DOVER STREET MARKET

Introducing five new pieces of sculptural gold jewellery. The‘FPPR-S2’ and ‘FPPR-e’ All COMME des GARÇONS wallets are high quality, with robust leather and no-fuss pinky rings by Dina Kamal, revisit the traditional signet ring. Whilst Lia Di Gregorio’s details. They can be found in all shades of neon, but the‘Crazy Stripe Wallets’ go one ‘Touch Ring’ rests a voluminous pearl against the wearer’s skin. On trend with forward step further. Designed with holographic fabric they capture the full colour spectrum in thinking modernity, the ‘Khan cube’ designed by Sardo is a portable piece of each turn. Iridescent inside and out, this design is full of pleasing contradictions; both architecture. And finally Hadar Nornberg never ceases to please with her visually slick and playful, adult and young, retro and unapologetically modern. simple, but technically complex works of sharp form and line.

22 23 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT DOVER STREET MARKET

J.W.Anderson is a brand described as ‘off-kilter’ Vogue( ) and ‘androgynous, perverse Named after basketball player and design innovator, Chuck Taylor, Converse All-Stars and futuristic’ (Dazed & Confused). Thesemulti-buckle trainers confirm both statements; are the go-to shoe of contemporary culture. This model of All-Stars was first made in the subverting our preconceptions of a classic sportswear staple. Also available in metallic silver, ’70s and uses the same classic materials of durable rubber and cotton canvas. With they are a slim-fitting and streamlined low-rise design. Each pair is made of a combination of thicker soles than the average Converse; this is everyday footwear, for happy-go-lucky goat and calf leather, offset by utility buckles. Anderson’s space-age creations are adventures. The heart-shaped face – the trademark of ‘Play’ by CDG – isa cheeky characteristically avant-garde, with elements of retro-futurism. reminder of life’s endless entertainments.

24 25 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT DOVER STREET MARKET Rose Bakery Why this cult café and resident restaurant has never smelled as sweet.

Many little meals Rose Bakery’s sweeping banquette of brushed Carrarini is the eponymous aluminium, from cake counter to kitchen, looks rose of Rose Bakery. Along like it’s simply been dropped into place. A sort of with husband Jean-Charles, stretched version of the original and much-smaller Carrarini opened the original café, the curving structure huddles the old café’s bakery, shop and restaurant tables and chairs into a light-filled corner, with on Rue des Martyrs in Paris windows overlooking the ramshackle backs of back in 2002, with the aim of Haymarket, and shelves stocked with Le Parfait jars serving fresh, handmade and of blood oranges in lemon juice and sugar, pots of unfussy food – think salads, honey from Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, and a selection quiches, and cakes. Sister of of Japanese tea. Adrian Joffe, the president of Every trick in the cook On the very top shelf, COMME des GARÇONS, in contrasting neon green and orange, are neatly Carrarini opened Rose Bakery organised copies of Carrarini’s two cookery books as part of the newly launched Dover Street Market in – ‘Breakfast, Lunch, and Tea’, and ‘How to Boil an 2004 and moves with it in location and scale to Egg’. These guides to mastering the Rose Bakery Haymarket, taking up residence on the calm and brand of culinary simplicity include some of their sun-filled 3rd floor. signature dishes and are a joyous resource of their Lunch pad In many ways, theirs is a very modest ‘many little meals.’ menu. Printed at the start of every day, dishes Raisin d’être ‘Life is improved by great food and reflect fresh ingredients available. Descriptions too great food can be achieved by everyone.’ are the opposite of flouncy, with the likes of ‘bowl Afternoon tease Carrarini writes wonderfully of hot vegetables with basil and anchovy sauce’ or in her books. This is one particular favourite ‘quiche with green salad’. They belie the feast for the snippet of ours on the joys of afternoon tea – ‘I eyes and the stomach with their bounty of colours could drink tea and eat cake all day, any time of the and flavours. Our ‘plate of salads’ was the complete day. I don’t have time, thank goodness, but for me spectrum – mustard smothered potatoes, orange cake-and-tea moments are some of the loveliest and and wonderfully acidic grated carrot with pumpkin simplest of pleasures, and our customers feel the seeds, zingy Asian coleslaw with tahini dressing same. At first there was a lot of hesitancy on the and red cabbage, green and purple blanched part of Parisians when it came to carrot cake or sprouting broccoli in yoghurt sauce, and slices of date and oat slices. Carrot in a cake? Oats? Never! sweet heritage tomatoes from yellow to deep red. But after the first bite there was no turning back, Dangling the carrot cake There are of course and what is really wonderful now is that when there some signature dishes. Quiches are Jean-Charles’s is something new on the counter or menu, we are own recipe – buttery boxes with whole pieces of told: “I don’t know that is, but I trust you and I’m broccoli mummified in beautifully salty creamy sure it is delicious.” This make me smile with such savoury custard. And there’s the carrot cake. A feelings of satisfaction, gratitude and relief.’ pillar of perfection, it’s a moist – never cloying and Local currant-cy The Carrarinis ran a not too sweet – sponge, toped with thickly trowled successful fashion knitwear business before cream cheese. opening their take on Epicerie Fine with British Extra helpings The new bakery has expanded the deli and restaurant Villandry in Marylebone – who scope of its menu, including more hot dishes like kale now have their flagship restaurant on Regent Street and porcini risotto. It will also be open earlier and St James’s – a mere scone’s throw from the new later, welcoming patrons from 11 till 7 – this extension Dover Street Market. of tea-taking hours will be welcomed by many. Opposite: Taking the biscuit With stained rings and well The new bakery is a generous PHOTOGRAPHY worn-in edges, the wooden wedge of sandwich filling between paint-stained topped tables have moved with Rose Bakery from Dover flooring below and original glass atrium above, Rose Bakery Street to Haymarket with metal ceiling tiles punctuated by soft pendant Dover Street Market Max Creasy 18 – 22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG Above: lighting. Much like the brand installations that The carrot cake that doverstreetmarket.com continues to inspire devotion break up and make up the department store, Rose @doverstreetmarketlondon

26 27 CALENDAR Guan Xiao at the ICA Guan Selected Spring Events Spring Selected Antony Donaldson at Whitford Fine Art Donaldson at Whitford Antony

Trump, Isis and Guan Xiao: Seasonal Pop Art Heroes: Capitalism – An Flattened Sensations: 1960s British Pop Evening with Metal in Asparagus and 27 May – 1 July Whitford Fine Art Molly Crabapple Association with Peas Dinner 6 Duke Street, SW1Y 6BN and Paul Mason K11 Art 13 May Champion of British Pop Art, Berry Bros & Rudd Whitford Fine Art brings together 4 April, 7PM Foundation 2 Pickering Place, SW1A 1EA a major retrospective on a Waterstones Piccadilly movement that never fails to 203 – 206 Piccadilly, W1J 9HD 20 April – 19 June This ingredient-led dinner fascinate. Born in Britain in the ICA inspired by the freshest produce late ’50s, Pop Art is the result of a Molly Crabapple lives and The Mall, SW1Y 5AH takes place in Berry Bros & diverse group of artists who took breathes her work. A New York Rudd’s newly re-launched space: inspiration from popular culture native and art-school dropout, Chinese artist Guan Xiao explores The Sussex Cellar. Just off and advertising. This exhibition she once danced burlesque and her twin fascinations – our Pickering Place, you access the concentrates on the themes of posed for soft-porn to pay the over-exposure to digital imagery venue through one of Berry Bros gender, sex and politics and rent while perfecting her and online information, and our & Rudd’s historic townhouses features the real heroes of the inimitable drawing style. Now an incomprehension of the past – before taking an apéritif on the era; Clive Barker, Peter Blake, acclaimed artist and journalist – through a range of sculpture, architecturally innovative Derek Boshier, Pauline Boty, whose work has appeared in The installation and video work. The mezzanine level. Down the hatch Patrick Caulfield, Antony New York Times, Vanity Fair, and results reach toward a new visual and it’s time to descend into the Donaldson, Allen Jones, Gerald The Paris Review as well as having language where the historical and restored dining area, where head Laing, Peter Phillips and Colin Self. a regular column in Vice – Molly the contemporary sit together, chef Stewart Turner and his team Involving a Marianne Faithful Crabapple is one of the most with roman pillars and opera will serve up a fantastic peep show, political caricatures provocative, and most-observed masks imbedded into exotically six-course tasting menu carefully and attempts to redefine the voices of our day. She has drawn coloured fake marble surfaces, paired with wines chosen by host feminine image, this is a show not in and reported from and symbols that on first glance and wine education specialist to be missed. And with plans to Guantanamo Bay, Abu Dhabi’s look Native American turn out to Barbara Drew. Part of the redecorate the front of the gallery – migrant labour camps, Syria, be constructs. Her videos, Seasonal Sensation series, the you won’t be able to resist walking Lebanon, Gaza, the West Bank, garnered from an experience of menu is built around those past this one come May. Iraq and Kurdistan. In this total immersion in the internet, quintessential English garden wide-ranging discussion with regurgitate short clips and vegetables, asparagus and peas, Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 9332 acclaimed broadcaster Paul snippets from YouTube, Vimeo, which will titillate your taste buds whitfordfineart.com Mason – author of PostCapitalism – live streaming and the myriad of in a variety of delicate and @whitfordfineart she will touch on political other media formats available gourmet dishes. activism, the power of art and her online and sequence them into new memoir Drawing Blood. random and unique patterns. Tel. +44 (0)800 280 2440 Ultimately Xiao’s art sees our new bbr.com Tel. +44 (0)20 7851 2400 visual world to be open, @berrybrosrudd waterstones.com non-linear, though bewilderingly @waterstonespicc flat and decentred.

Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 3647 ica.org.uk @icalondon

29 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT CAROLINE RUSH

“Dressing well is no longer the preserve of those that come from privilege or those that are in the Caroline Rush fashion industry. Guys really think about style now – they’re more adventurous.” The Chief Exec of the British Fashion Council on the state of fashion, the future of menswear and how St James’s is playing an evermore significant role in its renaissance. In preparation for our fourth showcase It’s about how you put your outfit more covetable. “Heritage evokes a sense at London Collections Men, we talk to together and having your own take on it. of pride in something that’s created from British Fashion Council Chief Exec And actually challenging the norms a really solid historical base and has Caroline Rush CBE, about British makes it much more exciting.” retained its DNA from when it started, fashion, the future of menswear and how For Rush, Eddie Redmayne embodies but may well have evolved into something St James’s is playing a significant role in the new male way of dressing. “He looks very different,” she says. “Burberry is a its renaissance. incredible. He dresses really well, looks great example of that, as is Dunhill.” fantastic and doesn’t look as though he And St James’s is the epitome of this. SEWING WITH MUM: tries too hard.” “St James’s historically has been known MISSION FASHION for its heritage and, of course, the royal SPOTLIGHTING YOUNG TALENT: warrant holders and the independent “There is no typical day and that’s part of LAUNCHPAD FOR LONDON businesses. It’s got all of the classics that the fun of it,” says Caroline Rush of her you would expect; it’s got great retailers. job. One day she’s with government While this liberation of men’s style But that’s changing slightly now, which representatives and UK Trade and was well underway by the time Rush makes it a very exciting part of London.” Investment (UKTI), while the next she’s launched London Collections Men in visiting designers in their studios, 2012, it’s fair to say that the bi-annual CHANGING IT UP: DESTINATION meeting retailers, talking to the media or shows have given it a global shot in the DOVER STREET MARKET jetting off abroad to chat with the BFC’s arm. “It’s a brilliant opportunity to shine long list of international partners. Despite a spotlight onto British menswear,” says It’s the addition of new businesses the organised chaos of her schedule, her Rush. “We’re in a very unique position coming into the area, however, that are mission remains the same: to promote because we have the breadth of making the most marked difference. British fashion to a global audience. businesses – we have the establishment, “I think the fact that Dover Street Market Rush felt her calling from an early age. if you like, that St James’s and Savile Row is coming into St James’s is really going “I’ve always loved the fashion industry,” are known for and we also have these to change the profile of the audience that she says. “My mum taught me how to sew brilliant contemporary brands.” come here – and hopefully that will open when I was really young. I appreciate it “We’ve got great young designers, up opportunities for existing businesses.” from the production perspective and also fantastic accessories that come from the Dover Street moved from its original the excitement and creativity around the UK. So what London Collections Men location to Haymarket in March, industry.” And since joining the BFC in offers to the international audience that bringing with it a welcome injection of 2009, she’s not only reinvigorated come here is both the heritage of our modern style and luxury. “Dover Street London Fashion Week – enticing menswear, but also the vibrancy that Market has got this unique place on the numerous brands back home, including comes out of London.” It’s the city’s fashion scene,” says Rush. “Everybody is Burberry, Matthew Williamson and unique history that put the London looking at what they’re doing. The Jonathan Saunders – but brought shows on the map. original store has launched many brands menswear back to the fore as well. According to Rush, New York, which and supported lots of young designers. has just started its own men’s fashion It’s also curated some of the best DRESSING LIKE EDDIE REDMAYNE: week, showcases their contemporary international talent as well. And it has a ADVENTURES IN MENSWEAR businesses, while Italy is known for its very particular audience – it’s very skills in manufacturing and Paris has the fashion-forward. But I think that its During her career Rush has seen a big global menswear brands. “I think fashion-forward audience appreciates the dramatic shift in the way men dress what London offers is the best through all heritage businesses too – the great shirt and how designers have changed their of those. We’ve got the global brands as makers, the accessories, the John Lobbs attitudes towards creating clothing for well as brilliant contemporary businesses. of this world. They’re equally going to be men. “Dressing well is no longer thought And we are the only place that is also able drawn into those establishments as well.” to be the preserve of those that come to add into the mix a real wealth of young from privilege or those that are in the talent. If you think this is what a fashion fashion industry,” she says. “Guys really industry is built on – its newness, think about style now – they think about excitement, people that are going to lead the clothes they wear, they appreciate the in terms of trend and innovation – that all quality, and they understand that they comes out of London!” don’t have to just stick to what they know. They’re a little more adventurous.” MARRYING HERITAGE AND It also helps that the traditional style INNOVATION: EVOLUTIONARY rules for men have all but disappeared. ST JAMES’S It no longer matters if you wear black with brown or that the end of your tie This marriage of history and innovation doesn’t sit that perfect distance from came up frequently during our chat with @rushcaroline britishfashioncouncil.co.uk your waistband. “There are no rules when Rush. Where heritage once meant old hat, @bfc

Photo: Josh Shinner Photo: it comes to men’s fashion anymore. it’s now evolved into something much londoncollections.co.uk

30 31 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT COLLARS AND CUFFS

HILDITCH & KEY A guide to collars and cuffs

When it comes to shirts, there is no mistake that the devil is in the details. Read on for our informative infographic from Jermyn Street shirtmakers Hilditch & Key, which breaks down each element to help you style your outfits, from the everyday to the avant-garde. Hilditch & Key Established in 1899 by Charles F. Hilditch and W. Graham Key, Hilditch & Key has enjoyed a rich history as renowned shirtmakers to the best dressed. CLASSIC COLLAR CUTAWAY COLLAR BUTTON DOWN COLLAR

The archetypical collar shape is straight and Popular with both seasoned sirs and dewy Many may associate a button down with likely to be a staple in many a wardrobe. This dudes, the cutaway injects subtle modernity into American casualness, but its roots hark back collar is best for those below six-foot-six and is business attire. The outward-pointing collar tips to civilised English polo players. The Master particularly complimentary for those with larger have a wider spread, making it perfect for taller, Shirtmaker at Hilditch & Key dismisses the faces, as the collar spread visually slims. The skinnier frames, as it draws the eye towards the ‘casual’ preconception. Dress it up with a knit tie points allow it to be worn with or without a tie; if neck. Pair with a larger knot – think Windsor – as or keep it breezy with a blazer. The button-down wearing a tie, opt for a medium-width knot, such the collar really helps pop a tie. has you covered from bar to boardroom. as the four-in-hand.

on selling, but on “dressing and have ties to Hilditch & Key – many of the educating.” Each customer to the shop – staff working on Jermyn Street move whether a routine local or one-time amongst shops to progress their craft in traveller – is provided with customer different milieus. This inevitably helps to service that seeks to build relationships maintain the quality and craftsmanship TAB COLLAR PHILIP COLLAR BUTTON CUFF and pass on the knowledge of the staff, the area is known for. Staff members Looking for something a little out of the ordinary? Calling all statement makers! The rarer The traditional button cuff can come with one, with the end goal to provide a quality from Jermyn Street, Miller adds, have a Tab collars were popular in the Roaring Twenties, Phillip collar will turn heads with its large, two, or three buttons on each cuff. While there is garment, value for money and longevity. skill set that those coming from Bond or resurfaced in the Swinging Sixties, and made rounded collar points, so choose this if no hard and fast rule regarding levels of formality, This Jermyn Street institution with an Mount Street typically lack. popular more recently in James Bond films. The tab you’re tiring of the typical. more mature men tend towards the one-button in question takes the form of a piece of material that cuff, while younger gents prefer two- or three- eye for quality and a passion for service Outside of St James’s, Hilditch & Key bridges across the collar points and is buttoned button cuffs. Keep in mind that if you prefer a has remained a small, family business in has a shop on Paris’s Rue de Rivoli and together underneath a tie. The result is a slightly larger sized watch, you should avoid one-button spite of a market full of cookie-cutter currently exports to Bloomingdale’s in elevated tie knot and collar points that sit neatly in cuffs to allow for the extra fit space. place throughout the day. conglomerates. But maturation does not New York, with eyes firmly set on necessitate stagnation. While the focus is expanding into further department on classic craftsmanship and avoiding stores across North America, bringing fickle fads, evolution is evident in the British shirtmaking closer to clientele form of a carefully curated ready-to- across the pond. wear collection, for example. Chief Executive Steven Miller explains this is the result of a change in shopping behaviours, as increasingly time-poor customers want the option of accessorising and completing their outfit.

Photo: Ivan Jones Photo: While this isn’t a first for Hilditch & Key, accessories, jackets, and sleepwear have When we arrive at the sunlit and been thought through with a more immaculately appointed shop at No. 73, comprehensive collection approach. FRENCH CUFF BOND CUFF MITRED BUTTON CUFF dapperly dressed Steve Miller, CEO of On St James’s, Miller states part of The French cuff is folded back on itself and fastened If you love to mix business and pleasure, the Release your inner edginess with a mitred Hilditch & Key, is ready and waiting. He what makes it so unique is its palpable with cufflinks. While many associate French cuffs James Bond cuff is for you. Similar to a French cuff. The corners are cut at an angle, creating a has been at the helm for nearly three village atmosphere. While Hilditch & Key with heightened formality, they are equally at ease cuff, the Bond is folded back on itself but varies subtle yet interesting detail to help you stand years, but is a veteran of Jermyn Street, caters to an international clientele, many in business environments. An added benefit is the in that it is cutaway, and has a button closure – out from the clones. opportunity to express yourself and add detail by eliminating the need for cufflinks. having migrated slightly east from his of their patrons are locals to the area. accessorising with cufflinks, or go continental with a tenure at Turnbull & Asser. Miller states Further heightening this sense of pair of understated silk knots. that staying on Jermyn Street is key, as community is the staff. Aside from the it’s “our home and heritage.” near-familial relationships between Hilditch & Key 73 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6NP On what makes them different, Miller shops – Floris perfumers, Bates Hats, and www.hilditchandkey.co.uk affirms that Hilditch & Key focuses not Cheaney & Sons shoes are just some that @hilditchandkey

32 33 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT 67 PALL MALL

67 Pall Mall As St James’s toasts its first new gentlemen’s club in living memory, founder Grant Ashton shows us just what a difference a century makes.

Stepping out onto Pall Mall and we’re a forces with his drinking pals, the loop from perfect presentation, then bit tipsy. The evening is still and the air concept for a London base to store, share pouring, coiffing, and back to cleaning. warm – the colour of sky shifting from and drink their wine was uncorked. 67 Pall Mall has £30,000 worth of Zalto purple to dark blue to orange. And that “Oh what’s that saying – a man never glasses in a myriad of shapes, finely song from Charlie and the Chocolate drinks alone when he has a bottle of tuned for sweet champagne, Burgundy, Factory is playing in our heads “…come wine.” Ashton surveys the hubbub and Bordeaux, etc. Pride of the two-storey with me, and you’ll be, in a world of pure conviviality of the main floor, and reels basement though is the original imagination.” We have just been lucky off members as he points to tables. Here’s Chatwood vault, with its “two-day” steel enough to meet the Willy Wonka of the a producer – English wine, Gusbourne, door, where the members’ most wine world at 67 Pall Mall – a new private and a gentleman from a Hungarian expensive wine is stored. members’ club dedicated to the love and vineyard. There’s a seller from Berry Down in the cellar, walking the rows appreciation of wine, and St James’s first Bros. In the corner is wine critic and rows of wooden boxes, each labelled club in nigh on a hundred years. Matthew Dukes chuckling with comic with the name and barcode of members The first thing to note is that 67 Pall Alexander Armstrong. With the full body and filled with their personal stash, Mall is actually busy. There is none of the of oenophiles, 67 Pall Mall certainly we’re struck by the specialness of this expected hushed reverence. No shows that those who store together, grand project. In fact, maybe its disgruntled looks over pale pink drink together. grandeur is a bit distracting. This isn’t newspapers. And no conspicuous Taking six years from concept to your traditional gentlemen’s club: absence of say a few popular launch, the club is heavily invested with it’s your good-old-fashioned fan club. demographic categories. There is a lot of Ashton’s money, hope, and high A place for enthusiasts to just let loose staff – swirling waiters with fresh white standards, but also his insistence on and geek-out – to play top trumps, swap shirts and waitresses with relaxed informality. This is even evident with the bottles, and enjoy a bit of friendly ponytails making easy talk with building’s refit. There’s the original rivalry. It’s also a welcome addition to customers about ’67 Barolo – but there chunky and robust oak parquet still with St James’s clubbing lineage. It marks a are lots of paying punters too. cigar burns and ’30s wood panelling chapter when ‘privilege’ now means The transformation of the old with deep dents, all contrasted with huge access to and the company of fellow Hambros bank, designed by Lutyens in modern chandeliers of concentric rings experts. Its currency is knowledge; its his own romantic ’20s take on of light descended from the lofty ceiling vice, rarity. And we found it all pretty classicism, was not an easy proposition of the grand hall, and splashes of interior intoxicating. …Hiccough! for landlords The Crown Estate. A Grade designer touches – leather upholstery the II listed building with a few rather green of bankers lamps, and tub chairs in important neighbours – including the deep turquoise velvet. Overall there is a next-door mansion Marlborough House confident simplicity, with a design that and St James’s Palace – 67 Pall Mall is toasts the club’s strengths – the building not only mainly underground but its and the wine. only windows are high, rendering it But with the central hall, we’re almost useless as a retail space. But its only one glass in. There are various reinvention as a new club – and one antechambers filled with wine in predicated on the storing of its members’ 15 °C glass cabinets, but that’s still hugely impressive wine collection – is nothing. Underneath the hall, the space ingenious. Enter founder, Grant Ashton. is replicated again, with a large open Sitting on stools by the main bar, floor for wine tasting events, courses and overlooked by bottles of Chateau Latour private dinners. They’ve already seen and Petrus, Ashton explains that 67 Pall multiple events including champagne Mall is the resolution to a very personal tasting with Jancis Robinson. There’s dilemma – what he calls his “drink also a kitchen – run by ex-Roast chef problem.” He had accumulated “more Marcus Verberne – serving up wine than I could drink if I had a bottle a everything from breakfast to dinner, day until I died. And my grandmother canapés to bespoke concept menus. 67 Pall Mall 67 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5ES lived to 102 – so I was being generous to Winding down again and we visit the 67pallmall.co.uk myself too.” And he wasn’t alone. Joining glass cleaners, who work in an infinite @67pallmall

34 35 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT THE RISE AND FALL, AND RISE AGAIN OF HAYMARKET

1635 On the eve of its transformation, we set before Pastoral Scene you eleven key moments that chart the highs and During the reign of Elizabeth I, Haymarket was little more than lows of this famous London street. a rural path and dividing line between the village of Charing to the east and St James’s Palace to the west. Taking a stroll along its length, Elizabethans would have noted the pure country air, the absence of any major habitation, and, had they peered over ILLUSTRATIONS the hedgerows, washerwomen laying out linen to dry on grass fields. Perhaps the only clue to Haymarket’s future was Shaver’s James Graham Hall, a sprawling house of public amusements containing several bowling alleys and banqueting halls, even an early form of tennis court made of brick. By 1657, carts loading hay and straw began to stop on the highway, and the name Haymarket first appeared in the rent book.

1705 The Resort 1780 A Spectacle The Opera House, the first incarnation of Her Majesty’s Theatre, THE RISE AND opened in 1705 with a performance of The Loves of Ergasto. As As Haymarket moved from the 17th into the 18th century, it well as Italian opera and the premiere of 23 new works by became known for its prostitutes, the bawdy after hours taverns, Handel, the venue staged masquerades that quickly became a and the dubious characters that frequented them. Another sensation sweeping the capital. Just over a decade later, the Little change was the array of freakish sideshows that popped up Theatre joined the Opera House on Haymarket and presented inviting passers-by to peek at the Irish Giant or panther-mare or French comedies – a favourite amongst the English aristocracy. six-legged ox. Most famous amongst these entertainers was With the influx of visitors, the area’s inns and yards multiplied, Bisset, the animal-trainer, who packed houses with his Cat European coffee houses opened, and all manner of traders and Opera accompanied by monkeys riding horses, half-a-dozen FALL, AND merchants – including world famous silversmith Paul de Lamerie dancing turkeys, and a bipedal hare beating a drum. Famously, and a number of highly regarded Italian perfumers – set up home Samuel Foote, an impressionist at the Little Theatre, lost his leg on the now bustling street of Haymarket. in a riding accident and practical joke but ended up receiving the royal patent to the theatre as recompense. Rumour has it that this is the origin of the popular saying ‘break a leg’, meaning more specifically to offer good luck in a bad situation.

RISE AGAIN OF 1820 Architect Nash

The great Regency architect John Nash spent much of this period remodelling the area according to his picturesque vision. On Haymarket, it meant the demolition of several HAYMARKET houses and the extension of Jermyn and Charles II streets to meet this grand thoroughfare. Nash also turned his attention to the theatres. The old opera house was renamed Her Majesty’s Theatre while the old Haymarket Theatre was pulled down and the present design – with its handsome portico and six Corinthian columns – was deemed more rightly befitting its new prospect down Charles II Street to the refined residences of St James’s Square. Finally, Haymarket’s unremarkable medley of buildings was being addressed.

1830 Rogues of Grain

An area synonymous with the ‘rogues of grain’ – those merchants who would slog up the steep street every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday to sell hay and straw – was under increasing pressure from the more sophisticated residents of late Georgian St James’s. With over 26,000 cartloads registered by the toll collectors between Lady Day 1827 and 1828, not to mention the drainage issues caused by discarded hay and the festering smells – enough was enough. The Act of 1830 provided for the market’s removal to another of The Crown Estate’s sites in St Pancras and Haymarket entered a new era.

36 37 ST JAMES’S CORRESPONDENT BUILT ENVIRONMENT

overlooking The Mall, but the 1900 accommodation wasn’t fit for modern occupation. The physical move to the Fin de Siècle new building on Regent Street saw manifest change to the organisation After an arson attack in 1789, then a fire in 1867, the fourth and culturally. We became much more current version of Her Majesty’s Theatre opened in April 1897. progressive commercially as a This state-of-the-art theatre was designed by Charles J. property business. Phipps as a symmetrical pair to the Carlton Hotel on the adjacent site. The new manager, Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree’s WE’RE TRYING SOMETHING DIFFERENT. productions – including the world première of George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion – were known for their elaborate, We’re shortly launching 25 Bury Street spectacular scenery and ingenious theatrical effects. At the with a floor available to take and occupy north end of Haymarket, the Underground Electric Railways from ‘Day One’. With the right size and Company opened Piccadilly Circus tube station in March 1906. specification, it’s a good opportunity to It included a surface ticket hall, but with over 18 million annual try something new because we know visitors by 1927, it was moved and expanded to its current that the market is changing and position underneath Eros. companies increasingly want to move 1940 in and start trading straight away.

1912 The Blitz THE STRATEGIES STILL STAND UP.

Enter Burberry At the start of the 20th century, the Carlton Hotel on Haymarket Five years ago we embarked on making a was one of London’s finest and most fashionable hotels. A joint clear statement for St James’s and the The Burberry building, like so many stores of the Victorian era, venture by the Swiss hotelier César Ritz and the king of French underlying principle of redefining was testament to one man’s commercial success. After cuisine Auguste Escoffier, it drew the high-spending clientele refined works very well. Only now, we’re founding the company aged just 21 and inventing the away from the imperious Savoy Hotel. At the height of its fame, able to sit down with people and show weatherproof gabardine fabric, Thomas Burberry opened on King Edward VII chose the venue to mark his coronation – a demonstrable change. Haymarket in 1891, and furthermore in 1912 constructed these much publicised and elaborate event that was abruptly grand premises. Designed in a Beaux-Arts style by cancelled when the king fell suddenly ill. The shock caused Ritz WE STAND ALONE IN THE ARTS. architect Walter Cave, the three-storey, stone-faced building to suffer a nervous breakdown and pushed him into retirement, boasted large display windows and an ornate street clock leaving Escoffier as the figurehead at the Carlton. The Carlton St James’s is world-renowned for its bearing the Burberry name. Used in many advertising continued until bomb damage in 1940 forced it to close. The galleries. Elsewhere in London they’re campaigns, the facade of the store became a globally demise of such a significant establishment signalled the end of under a lot of pressure, but we’re recognised emblem for the brand throughout the 20th century. Haymarket’s pre-war glamour. committed to and investing in that sector.

ONE PERSON WITH DRIVE CAN 1925 1960 MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE.

Jazz! Modern Matters 67 Pall Mall is St James’s new club, and a wine focused venture. It was a difficult In 1925, Capitol Cinema opened to much fanfare in Haymarket. By the ’60s, the ubiquity of the car and London’s bourgeoning project: historic space in a listed Lutyens Built for theatrical impresario Sir Walter Gibbons as a venue for population was causing traffic strains and provoking city building so close to Marlborough House premieres, the cinema – later renamed the Gaumont – had the planners to think differently. Haymarket drew the short straw and St James’s Palace. But Grant Ashton, first run of any British talkie film – Alfred Hitchcock’s and was remodelled as part of a new gyratory system the founder, spent innumerable hours Blackmail – and even hosted Queen Mary in 1937 when she circumnavigating the central London districts. The result persuading and reassuring people. He’s attended the premiere of The Great Barrier starring Richard turned Haymarket into a rumbling, multi-lane, one-way lived and breathed the construction and Arlen. In the basement of the Gaumont, the ultra-chic cavalcade. The other key development was the construction of has done a fantastic job. He even stores members-only club Kit-Cat opened in summer of the same year. the 18-storey, glass-skinned skyscraper New Zealand House, their most precious wine in the original Described as ‘luxurious, but wonderfully comfy’ it was popular designed by Sir Robert Matthew. Built on the derelict Carlton vault of the Hambros Bank. with princes, cabinet ministers, dukes and peers. Despite early Hotel site, and the only tall building in the area, it caused loud success and appearances from legendary cabaret acts such as objections. Achieving Grade II listing in 1996 however, the WE’VE LEARNT THE IMPORTANCE Hal Sherman and Lester Allen, it was infamously shut down for future of this key example of modernism is now concrete. OF LIAISON. illegal after-hours liquor sales. Mariona Vilarós Photo: It’s so important to us. We have to get it 2016 right and do it properly. It makes us TEAM ST JAMES’S trustable as a business with integrity Resurgence that people know what to expect from. Andy Nutt Haymarket today is back on the rise! Pedestrians are reclaiming I LIVE IN SURBITON WITH the street aided by improved pavements, the area’s heritage is Responsible for the historic WE DEAL WITH SOME OF THE BEST MY YOUNG FAMILY. seeing a renaissance, and new invitations are being welcomed. western and southern parts of REAL ESTATE IN THE WORLD. Kit Kemp has redesigned the Regency-era Haymarket Hotel, St James’s, Asset Manager Andy We used to live on the same street where asserting her own theatrical vision of ‘modern English’ design. Nutt shows how an old institution It’s a privileged position. And I think The Good Life was set. With two boys, Further up the street the empty Burberry building is undergoing can learn many a new trick. everyone at The Crown Estate sees it as a aged six and just four, weekends are a transformation by edgy, multi-brand store, and retail arm of responsibility because you know you’re swimming, kids’ rugby, and parties, but COMME des GARÇONS, Dover Street Market. And of course, I STARTED OUT MANAGING investing and creating something that I still find the time to play football and St James’s Market will open soon. By creating a new public MINERALS AND GAS PIPELINES. should stand the test of time. golf where possible. We cooked a roast square and dining quarter linking Regent Street St James’s and for Mother’s Day and the boys can just Haymarket, it will alter how the whole area is not only used and The Crown Estate owns the seabed THE CROWN ESTATE HAS CHANGED about help now without putting navigated, but radically shift the perceptions of this wonderful out to the 12 nautical mile territorial BEYOND ALL RECOGNITION. themselves in too much danger! street in the minds of Londoners. Haymarket is in the ascendant. limit, so we deal with any kind of use for the seabed and foreshore from an We used to be housed in a Grade I individual mooring right up to listed building on Carlton House thecrownestate.co.uk commercial ports and harbours. Terrace with some very grand rooms @thecrownestate

38 39 A NEW DESTINATION FOR LONDON, WITH GLOBAL BUSINESS, WORLD-CLASS DINING AND FLAGSHIP RETAIL.

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