National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior

The official newspaper of Channel Islands National Park Island Views Volume 4, 2007 — 2008

Tim Hauf, www.timhaufphotography.com

Falcon Chicks Hatch Bald Eagles Return The U.S. Channel Islands, which are In April 2007 biologists discovered home to Channel Islands National Park, are peregrine falcon chicks on Santa Barbara often called the Galapagos of North America. Island for the first time in over 50 years. Isolated from the mainland, the islands are Although successful nests have been recently home to many species of animals and plants recorded on other Channel Islands, this was found nowhere else on Earth. However, this the first documented successful breeding on amazing oasis of biodiversity was irrevocably Santa Barbara Island since about 1940. altered beginning in the mid-1800s when Due to pesticide poisoning, peregrine settlers introduced nonnative livestock. Feral falcons disappeared from the islands in the pigs, sheep, rats, and pesticides devastated mid-1950s. Peregrine falcons, bald eagles Brian Latta native plant and animal populations, push- and many seabirds in the southern Califor- Peregrine chicks in Santa Barbara Island nest. ing some species to extinction. Working in nia marine environment have had problems Peter Sharpe cooperation with numerous partners, the breeding in recent decades due to DDT and shelled eggs that dehydrate or break during National Park Service (NPS) has undertaken a In April 2006, the first chick in more than 50 years PCBs that contaminate the local food web. incubation. hatched on the Channel Islands. Now known as wide range of efforts in recent years to protect The chemicals can cause birds to lay thin- please see FALCON, 23 “A-49,” its radio and satellite transmitters have al- and restore the biodiversity of the Channel lowed biologists to track this bird moving among the islands, visiting the mainland of California for Islands. In 2006, a program to restore bald a couple of months, and returning to the islands. eagles—once an important part of the ecosys- Fox Recovery Continues tem—paid off. For the first time in more than total of 61 bald eagle chicks raised in Alaska 50 years, a bald eagle chick hatched on the and at the San Francisco Zoo to Santa Cruz One of America’s rarest mammals, Channel Islands unaided by humans. Island, one of five islands that make up Chan- the endangered island fox, was released from The bald eagle restoration program was nel Islands National Park. Only four years after captivity to the wild on San Miguel, Santa made possible through a partnership among starting the restoration program, biologists Rosa, and Santa Cruz Islands during the state and federal agencies, including the NPS were surprised in 2006 by two successful bald fall of 2007, marking yet another milestone and the Montrose Settlement Restoration eagle nests on , each fledging in the recovery of balance to the islands Program. The partnership was assisted by non- one chick. In 2007 one nest with one chick has ecosystem. governmental partners such as the Institute for been documented; the chick fledged in late In 1999, at the depth of the catastrophic Wildlife Studies (IWS), a nonprofit working June. island fox decline, 14 foxes were brought for more than 25 years to restore wildlife on Thrilled with the public interest in the first Tim Hauf into captivity on San Miguel, with only one the Channel Islands, which carries out the chick, now known as A-49 (see accompany- The endangered Channel Islands fox field work for the eagle restoration program. ing picture), Channel Islands National Park, please see FOX, 17 From 2002 to 2006 biologists imported a please see EAGLE, 15

Island Information Things to Do Focus on Resources 6 Anacapa Island 2 Visitor Centers, Programs, Transportation 4 General Management Plan 3 When To Visit, Where to Stay 5 National Park Service Centennial Initiative 12 Santa Cruz Island 4 Hiking, Fishing, Watersports 7 Restoring Anacapa Island 7 Channel Islands Live 8 Partners in Preservation 10 Camping, Backcountry Camping 9 Marine Protetected Areas 16 Santa Rosa Island 19 Whale, Seal, and Sea Lion Watching 11 Help Stop the Spread of Non-Native Species 20 Boating and Kayaking 13 Restoring Santa Cruz Island

18 23 Tidepooling 14 The Island Chumash Tim Hauf 24 Volunteering 15 History and Culture of the Channel Islands Aerial view of Channel Islands National Park 24 Parks as Classrooms, Jr. Ranger Program 17 Stream Recovery on Santa Rosa Island 22 Santa Barbara Island and National Marine Sanctuary 20 Limiting Your Impact Los Alamos

S A N R A Lompoc F 154 A P IN E M 246 E O U N L T A IN M R eyes Peak O 7510ft U 33 2290m N T S olvang 246 A I N Tranquillon S POINT Mountain S A 2159ft N 101 L O S P A D R E S N A T I O N A L F O R E S T AR GUELLO T 658m A N S Y N T A I N 1 154 M O U E S A N P A Z T A T O When to Visit—Through the Year Welcome from the Superintendent A National Park Service Y P S anta Ynez Peak N E Z T O M 4298ft M 6704ft O O U 2044m U N 1310m N T T A I N Gaviota Pass A I U.S. Department of the Interior S N S The park staff and I wish to welcome Visitors often ask what time of year you to Channel Islands National Park, one of they should visit Channel Islands National North America’s magnificent treasures. Close Park. Since the park is located in “sunny” Channel Islands National Park to the California mainland, yet worlds apart, southern California, it may seem that the obvi- Named for the deep trough that the park encompasses five of the eight Cali- ous answer is “any time of year.” And, true, separates them from the mainland, the fornia Channel Islands (Anacapa, Santa Cruz, you Tocan visit throughout the entire year. But, 48mi 77km Newbury islands off the California coast and their Santa Rosa, San Miguel, and Santa Barbara) believePark it or not, we do have seasons here in encircling waters are home to plants and and their ocean environment, preserving and southern California. While the seasonal chang- animals found nowhere else on Earth. protecting a wealth of natural and cultural es are nothing like one would find in Minne- Isolation over thousands of years and the resources. The park bridges two biogeographi- sota, there are differences that visitors should mingling of warm and cold ocean cur- cal provinces and in a remarkably small place, take into consideration when visiting the park. rents give rise to the rich biodiversity of harbors the biologic diversity of nearly 2,500 Each season has its own character and casts a these islands. Today, five of the islands, miles of the North American coast. The Chan- unique mood over the islands. their submerged lands, and the waters nel Islands are home to over 2,000 terrestrial In addition, visitors also should be aware -3109ft within one nautical mile of each island plants and animals, of which 145 are found that-948m ocean and weather conditions vary are protected as Channel Islands nowhere else in the world. considerably from day-to-day and island-to- National Park. Like the Galapagos Islands of South island. Although this makes planning your America, isolation has allowed evolution to visit a little difficult, we must remember that Mailing Address proceed independently on the islands. Marine this unpredictable and, at times, unforgiving Park Superintendent life ranges from microscopic plankton to the weather is one of the main reasons that the Channel Islands National Park blue whale, the largest animal to live on Earth. islands have been afforded so much isolation 1901 Spinnaker Dr. Archeological and cultural resources span a and protection from the rapid changes seen Ventura,CA 93001 period of more than 13,000 years of human on the mainland. It is, in part, what makes the habitation. provide for your enjoyment. If you visit the tion. So a visit to this national park will always Channel Islands such a unique and wonderful Phone The protection of these fragile island park, you will be one of a very select group. provide a marked contrast to the bustle of place. 805-658-5730 resources was ensured when Congress, in the Few people actually see this park because it southern California most people experience. We encourage you to take the opportunity act that created Channel Islands National Park is not easy to get to—you can’t drive to the It will always be a place where you can step to fully enjoy the islands throughout the entire Park Website in 1980, established a long-term ecological islands. A short but exciting ocean voyage back in time and experience coastal southern year. Channel Islands National Park is truly a www.nps.gov/chis/ monitoring program to gather information on or a commercial flight in a small airplane is California the way it once was. place for all seasons. the current health of resources and predict required. The park is one of the least visited We are delighted you are interested in this Climate E-mail future conditions. This information provides of all of America’s national parks, with less marvelous place. Thanks for making the effort! [email protected] park and natural resource managers with use- than 250,000 annual visitors to the islands. The We hope our park newspaper encourages you In general, the islands have a Mediterranean ful products for recreation planning, conser- relatively light visitation enhances the islands’ to safely explore and discover Channel Islands climate year-round. Temperatures are rela- The National Park Service cares for the vation and restoration programs, and early feeling of solitude and assists in the protection National Park while taking care to protect and tively , with highs averaging in the mid- special places saved by the American identification of critical issues. of fragile resources. In establishing the park, keep these beautiful and fragile islands unim- 60s (°F) and lows in the low-50s. The islands people so that all may experience The islands were set aside by Congress not Congress recognized the value of solitude by paired for future generations. receive most of their precipitation between December and March. Spring starts the warm- our heritage. only to preserve these resources, but also to allowing only controlled, low-impact visita- Russell E. Galipeau, Jr., Superintendent

Visitor Information

Visitor Center Accessibility The Channel Islands National Park Visitor Center features a bookstore, a native plant garden, a dis- The mainland visitor center is fully accessible. Due to their isolation and transportation require- Transportation Information play of marine aquatic life, and exhibits featuring the unique character of each park island. Visitors ments, the islands are not readily accessible for individuals in wheelchairs or those with limited also will enjoy the 25-minute park movie, “A Treasure in the Sea,” in the auditorium. mobility. Limited wheelchair access is available on Santa Rosa Island via air transportation. Please Island Frequency of Trips* Travel Time* (one way) Landing Conditions call the park for information. Channel Islands National Park ·Hours: 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., daily Anacapa Year-round: 7 days/week 1 hour from Ventura Visitors must climb from the boat up a steel-rung ladder to a dock. Once ashore, visitors must climb 154 2 hours from Santa Barbara stairs to the top of the island. Non-landing trips are available. 1901 Spinnaker Drive ·Closed Thanksgiving and December 25 Transportation—How to Get There Ventura, CA 93001 Boat Transportation eastern Santa Cruz Year-round: 5–7 days/week 1 hour from Ventura Visitor must climb from the boat up a steel-rung ladder to a pier at Scorpion Anchorage and Prisoners (805) 658-5730 www.nps.gov/chis/ Public boat transportation is available year-round to all five islands by the park concessionaires, Is- (NPS property) 2 hours from Santa Barbara Harbor. All other landings are skiff ( small boat) landings on a beach. land Packers and Truth Aquatics. In addition, Island Packers offers whale watching trips while Truth Outdoors Santa Barbara Visitor Center western Santa Cruz Year-round: 2–5 days/week 1 hour from Ventura Visitors must climb from the boat up a steel-rung ladder to a pier at Prisoners Harbor. All other landings are Aquatics also offers scuba diving trips. (TNC property) 2 hours from Santa Barbara skiff ( small boat) landings on a beach. Contact The Nature Conservancy for information: (805) 642-0345. This visitor center not only has one of the best views of Santa Barbara, but also offers visitors exhibits and information about Channel Islands National Park, Los Padres National Forest, Channel For departures out of Ventura and Channel For departures out of Santa Barbara Harbor Santa Rosa Spring to fall: 8–12 days/month 3 hours from both harbors Visitors must climb up a 20-foot, steel-rung ladder to a pier or be prepared for beach landings by skiff. Islands National Marine Sanctuary, and the City of Santa Barbara. Open daily; call for hours. Islands (Oxnard) Harbors contact: contact: Flights: 7 days/week, year-round Flight: 45 minutes Stong winds and rough seas are possible. Plane lands on a graded dirt airstrip. Turbulence is possible. San Miguel Spring to fall: 8–12 days/month 4 hours from Ventura Skiff landings on the beach—be prepared to waterproof gear and possibly to get wet. Strong winds and 113 Harbor Way 4th Floor Island Packers, Inc. Truth Aquatics at Sea Landing 4.5 hours from Santa Barbara rough seas are possible. Santa Barbara, CA 93109 (805) 884-1475 1691 Spinnaker Dr. 301 West Cabrillo Blvd. Ventura, CA 93001 Santa Barbara, CA 93101 Santa Barbara Spring to fall: 4 days/month 3 hours from Ventura Visitors must climb a steel-rung ladder to the top of the pier from a skiff. Once ashore, visitors must walk Interpretive Information (805) 642-1393 www.islandpackers.com (805) 963-3564 www.truthaquatics.com 6 hours from Santa Barbara uphill 1/4 mile with 131 long steps to the top of the island.

Books and materials about the park are available for sale through the Western National Parks As- Multi-island trips (Truth Aquatics) Year-round: 3 trips/month Varies depending on destination Trips include visits to at least two islands. These trips include meals and shipboard lodging. sociation either in the park visitor center or by mail order. This nonprofit organization supports the Private boaters may land on all five islands within the park throughout the year. Please see “Boat- educational and research programs of the park. ing and Kayaking” on page 20 for more information. *Refer to concessionaire’s transportation schedule for more information.

Western National Parks Association Air Transportation 1901 Spinnaker Dr., Public air transportation is available year-round to Santa Rosa Island by park concessionaire Chan- Ventura, CA 93001 (805) 658-5730 www.wnpa.org nel Islands Aviation. Flights depart from Camarillo Airport. For departures contact:

Interpretive Programs Channel Islands Aviation Weekends and holidays, rangers offer a variety of free public programs. For information about spe- 305 Durley Avenue cific program dates and to learn more about the park, call, write, or visit the park’s visitor center. Camarillo, CA 93010 (805) 987-1301 www.flycia.com On the islands, rangers and volunteer naturalists offer guided hikes throughout the year. -Private aircraft may not land within park boundaries. All aircraft must maintain a minimum 1000- foot altitude above land and sea surfaces within the park.  Island Views Welcome from the Superintendent When to Visit—Through the Year

Visitors often ask what time of year ing trend toward summer when temperatures Summer they should visit Channel Islands National average in the low-70s. · Afternoon winds are common. Fog Park. Since the park is located in “sunny” However, visitors must be prepared for high diminishes near midsummer. Calm winds and southern California, it may seem that the obvi- winds, fog, rough seas, and sea spray at any seas become more frequent near the end of ous answer is “any time of year.” And, true, time. Winds are often calm in the early morn- summer. you can visit throughout the entire year. But, ing and increase during the afternoon. High · Ocean temperatures begin to warm, believe it or not, we do have seasons here in winds may occur regardless of the forecast, reaching the high 60s (°F) by end of summer. southern California. While the seasonal chang- especially on the outer islands, Santa Rosa and Underwater visibility increases. es are nothing like one would find in Minne- San Miguel (30-knot winds are not unusual). · Summer is the ideal time for sailing, snorkel- sota, there are differences that visitors should Anacapa, eastern Santa Cruz, and Santa ing, diving, kayaking, and swimming. Tim Hauf take into consideration when visiting the park. Barbara Islands have more moderate winds. · The park’s underwater interpretive program Each season has its own character and casts a The calmest winds and sea conditions often begins on Anacapa with live broadcasts at Rainbow and coreopsis, Santa Barbara Island unique mood over the islands. occur August through October. Dense fog is mainland visitor center. · Blue and humpback whale watching comes In addition, visitors also should be aware common during the late spring and early sum- · Seabird and landbird chicks fledge (leave to an end in early fall. that ocean and weather conditions vary mer months, but may occur at any time. Ocean the nest and fly). · Fall bird migration is underway. considerably from day-to-day and island-to- water temperatures range from the lower 50s · Although the vegetation begins to dry out, · Northern elephant seals begin to gather at island. Although this makes planning your (°F) in the winter to the upper 60s in the fall. some plants like gumplant, buckwheat, pop- their rookery sites in late fall. visit a little difficult, we must remember that pies, and verbena continue to bloom. Spring this unpredictable and, at times, unforgiving · Whale watching begins for blue and hump- Winter · Although temperatures are becoming weather is one of the main reasons that the back whales. warmer, strong winds often occur during this · Temperatures begin to cool. Winter storms islands have been afforded so much isolation · California sea lions and northern fur seals season. Dense fog is common during the late start to appear, with most rain falling between and protection from the rapid changes seen begin pupping. spring. December and March. Nevertheless, beauti- on the mainland. It is, in part, what makes the · Most people visit the park during the June · The islands are green and wildflowers reach ful, sunny, clear winter days occur between Channel Islands such a unique and wonderful through August period. peak bloom, especially the brilliant yellow storms. place. · Backcountry beach camping season begins coreopsis flowers.D uring a normal year of · Some of the best sunsets of the year occur We encourage you to take the opportunity on Santa Rosa Island. rainfall, this occurs by late January through during this time of year. to fully enjoy the islands throughout the entire March. · Gray whale watching begins at the end of year. Channel Islands National Park is truly a Fall · Western gulls and other seabirds begin December and lasts until April. place for all seasons. · The best chance for warm weather, calm nesting. · Northern elephant seals begin pupping in winds, and seas continues. However, begin- Climate · Island fox pups are born. early winter. ning around October, strong east or Santa Ana · Harbor seals begin pupping in late winter. In general, the islands have a Mediterranean · Spring bird migration is underway. winds are possible. · Islands begin to turn green and wildflowers climate year-round. Temperatures are rela- · End of gray whale watching season. · Many consider the fall as the best time of start blooming during the late winter months. tively stable, with highs averaging in the mid- · California sea lions and northern fur seals year for snorkeling, diving, kayaking, and · California brown pelicans begin nesting. 60s (°F) and lows in the low-50s. The islands start to gather at their rookery sites. swimming. Ocean temperatures may reach 70° receive most of their precipitation between · Peregrine falcons and other landbirds begin (F) in early fall and visibility may reach 100 December and March. Spring starts the warm- nesting. feet.

Accessibility The mainland visitor center is fully accessible. Due to their isolation and transportation require- Transportation Information ments, the islands are not readily accessible for individuals in wheelchairs or those with limited mobility. Limited wheelchair access is available on Santa Rosa Island via air transportation. Please Island Frequency of Trips* Travel Time* (one way) Landing Conditions call the park for information. Anacapa Year-round: 7 days/week 1 hour from Ventura Visitors must climb from the boat up a steel-rung ladder to a dock. Once ashore, visitors must climb 154 2 hours from Santa Barbara stairs to the top of the island. Non-landing trips are available. Transportation—How to Get There Boat Transportation eastern Santa Cruz Year-round: 5–7 days/week 1 hour from Ventura Visitor must climb from the boat up a steel-rung ladder to a pier at Scorpion Anchorage and Prisoners Public boat transportation is available year-round to all five islands by the park concessionaires, Is- (NPS property) 2 hours from Santa Barbara Harbor. All other landings are skiff ( small boat) landings on a beach. land Packers and Truth Aquatics. In addition, Island Packers offers whale watching trips while Truth western Santa Cruz Year-round: 2–5 days/week 1 hour from Ventura Visitors must climb from the boat up a steel-rung ladder to a pier at Prisoners Harbor. All other landings are Aquatics also offers scuba diving trips. (TNC property) 2 hours from Santa Barbara skiff ( small boat) landings on a beach. Contact The Nature Conservancy for information: (805) 642-0345.

For departures out of Ventura and Channel For departures out of Santa Barbara Harbor Santa Rosa Spring to fall: 8–12 days/month 3 hours from both harbors Visitors must climb up a 20-foot, steel-rung ladder to a pier or be prepared for beach landings by skiff. Islands (Oxnard) Harbors contact: contact: Flights: 7 days/week, year-round Flight: 45 minutes Stong winds and rough seas are possible. Plane lands on a graded dirt airstrip. Turbulence is possible. San Miguel Spring to fall: 8–12 days/month 4 hours from Ventura Skiff landings on the beach—be prepared to waterproof gear and possibly to get wet. Strong winds and Island Packers, Inc. Truth Aquatics at Sea Landing 4.5 hours from Santa Barbara rough seas are possible. 1691 Spinnaker Dr. 301 West Cabrillo Blvd. Ventura, CA 93001 Santa Barbara, CA 93101 Santa Barbara Spring to fall: 4 days/month 3 hours from Ventura Visitors must climb a steel-rung ladder to the top of the pier from a skiff. Once ashore, visitors must walk (805) 642-1393 www.islandpackers.com (805) 963-3564 www.truthaquatics.com 6 hours from Santa Barbara uphill 1/4 mile with 131 long steps to the top of the island.

Multi-island trips (Truth Aquatics) Year-round: 3 trips/month Varies depending on destination Trips include visits to at least two islands. These trips include meals and shipboard lodging. Private boaters may land on all five islands within the park throughout the year. Please see “Boat- ing and Kayaking” on page 20 for more information. *Refer to concessionaire’s transportation schedule for more information.

Air Transportation Where to Stay—Accommodations and Services Camping Public air transportation is available year-round to Santa Rosa Island by park concessionaire Chan- There are no accommodations or services available on the islands. Visitors must bring all their own Camping is available year-round on all five islands in Channel Islands National Park. Please refer to nel Islands Aviation. Flights depart from Camarillo Airport. For departures contact: food, water, and other supplies. Public phones are not available. Primitive camping is available on the “Camping” and “Backcountry Camping” sections on pages 10 for detailed information. Channel Islands Aviation every island. Please refer to the camping section on page 10 for more information. For accommo- Picnicking 305 Durley Avenue dations in Ventura or Santa Barbara contact: Picnic tables are available for day use on all islands except San Miguel. If weather permits, many Camarillo, CA 93010 (805) 987-1301 www.flycia.com Ventura Visitor and Convention Bureau Santa Barbara City Visitor Center visitors enjoy picnicking on the islands’ beaches. Visitors must bring their own food and water. Public -Private aircraft may not land within park boundaries. All aircraft must maintain a minimum 1000- 89C South California St. 1 Santa Barbara St. pit toilets are available on all islands. continued on page 4 foot altitude above land and sea surfaces within the park. Ventura, CA 93001 (805) 648-2075 Santa Barbara, CA 93103 (805) 965-3021 Island Views  Park to Revise General Management Plan

Channel Islands National Park (CINP) for the park’s future, as well as guidance in all the issues facing the park, provide detailed (particularly in the marine waters surround- is one of America’s newest and most complex resource preservation, protection, and man- facility designs or management actions, or ing the islands), several actions are underway national parks. As one of America’s “crown agement that will help achieve that vision. It guarantee funding for the park. Rather, this to eliminate non-native species and restore jewels,” this park will continue to serve as a will also help identify how the National Park plan will describe the general path the NPS altered ecosystems, park visitation has tripled, model for park management. It is important Service (NPS) may best protect cultural and intends to follow in managing CINP over the and recreational uses and use patterns have that park resources, both terrestrial and ma- natural resources while providing for visitor next 15 to 20 years. Desired resource condi- changed. rine, continue to be preserved and protected enjoyment of the park. tion and visitor experiences that would be for future generations. The park wants to communicate, consult, appropriate for each part of the park and the How can you get involved? The current General Management Plan and cooperate with all individuals and groups strategies for achieving those conditions, will Public involvement is critical to the success (GMP) was completed in 1985. Since that time of the interested public in this planning pro- be identified. General locations where certain of the planning effort. Public input will help much has occurred, such as completion of the cess. We urge you to take advantage of all types of development would be appropri- the planning team and decision makers learn park’s major land acquisition effort, expansion opportunities in this process to share your vi- ate will also be identified. Specific questions about the concerns, issues, expectations, and of park operations and visitor facilities, and an sion and support for this magnificent national regarding how these desired conditions will be desires of visitors, interested citizens, people increase in the number of resource issues we park. Your participation will ensure a strong achieved will be answered in new or revised with traditional cultural ties to the park, inter- are facing. public voice to help guide us and will result in implementation plans, such as resource man- est groups, and others. The planning team will In 2001 the park began to revise the GMP a better vision than we alone could provide. agement and interpretive plans that follow the share information and seek public input at that will help guide the park’s management GMP. key points throughout the planning process. A policies and direction for the next 15 to 20 What is a general management plan? To comply with the National Environmen- variety of methods will be used to encourage years. This new GMP will provide a vision GMPs identify the overall direction for tal Policy Act and NPS policy, the GMP will public feedback, including publishing newslet- future management of national parks. They be combined with an environmental impact ters, sending public releases to the media, take a long-range, broad, conceptual view, statement (EIS). The GMP/EIS will identify holding public meetings, and posting informa- answering the question, “What kind of place significant issues and concerns, present a rea- tion on the Internet. do we want this park to be?” GMPs provide a sonable range of management alternatives, and For more information about the planning framework for managers to use when making analyze the environmental impacts of each of process contact: Channel Islands National decisions about such issues as how best to the alternatives. Park, Attention: GMP Coordinator, 1901 protect resources, what levels and types of Spinnaker Drive, Ventura, CA 93001-4354; or uses are appropriate, what facilities should be Why does the park revise its GMP? [email protected]. You can also log on to the developed, and how people should access the The National Parks and Recreation Act of park’s home page at www.nps.gov/chis or the park. All concepts, strategies, and actions in a 1978 (P.L.95-625) requires the preparation NPS planning web page at www.nps.gov/plan- general management plan must be consistent and timely revision of GMPs for each unit ning. All newsletters will be posted on the web with the reasons for the park’s establish- of the national park system. CINP’s current sites, along with an electronic response form. ment—the park’s purpose, significance, and GMP was first completed in 1980 and was Please let us know your concerns, issues, and mission. Federal legislation, such as the NPS amended in 1984 and 1985. Conditions have thoughts on what should be addressed in the Organic Act, the Endangered Species Act, and substantially changed since 1985. Among the GMP. The CINP planning team appreciates the National Historic Preservation Act, along significant changes that have occurred over your interest and looks forward to hearing . with NPS policies also direct what the plan can the past 16 years: the NPS has acquired new from you Tim Hauf and cannot consider. lands on Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz Islands, Lighthouse, Anacapa Island The Channel Islands GMP will not resolve the condition of several resources has declined

Visitor Information (continued from page 3)

Hiking Fishing Many trails and roads traverse the islands, To fish in Channel Islands National Park, possession of a valid California state fishing license is providing visitors with spectacular hiking op- required and all California Department of Fish and Game Regulations apply. In addition, thirteen portunities. These trails and roads range from Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) surround the islands. Special resource protection regulations apply. the maintained, relatively flat, signed trails of Please refer to the “Limiting Your Impact” section (page 20) for additional regulations and guide- Anacapa to the unmaintained, rugged, moun- lines. Visitors may also contact the Channel Islands National Park headquarters and island rangers tainous, unsigned paths of Santa Rosa. Please for more information on marine resources regulations. Visitors should also be sure to obtain see individual island sections for descriptions of the Channel Islands National Park brochure/map and the Channel Islands National Marine these routes. In addition, trail maps, guides, and Tim Hauf Sanctuary (NOAA/NMS) Protecting Your Channel Islands brochure/map. topographic maps are available at park visitor Hikers, Webster Point, Santa Barbara Island centers and at island bulletin boards. Hikers Watersports need to assume individual responsibility for planning their trips and hiking safely. To increase your Swimming, Snorkeling, and Diving odds of a safe hike, decrease your disturbance to wildlife, and lessen damage to resources, visitors The kelp forests, sea caves, and coves of the park await the adventurous swimmer, snorkeler, should be in good physical condition and must follow the regulations and guidelines in the “Limit- and diver. Some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world can be done right here within the ing Your Impact” section and those listed below: park. These activities are best done on Santa Barbara, Anacapa, and eastern Santa Cruz Islands. Due to extremely windy conditions on Santa Rosa and San Miguel, these activities should not be • Stay on trails and roads while hiking—avoid animal trails, which are narrow, uneven, attempted on these islands by the novice or anyone who is not properly trained, conditioned, and unstable and dangerous. Cliff edges should be avoided at all times since they tend to be equipped. Please refer to diving books available in the visitor center for more detailed information crumbly and unstable. Stay well back. Children should be supervised at all times by an adult. on island snorkeling and diving sites. • Carry plenty of water—one quart for short walks, more for longer hikes. Since the marine environment can be unforgiving, use extra caution when engaging in these • Hikers should never hike alone—use the buddy system. This allows someone to go for activities. Ocean conditions are highly variable and sometimes dangerous. Many beaches help if you encounter trouble. on the islands have steep, dangerous shore breaks. The wind and swell generally come from the • Be aware of poison oak, “jumping” cholla cactus, ticks, and scorpions. Poison oak can be northwest and become stronger as the day continues. From October through January, visitors must identified by its clusters of three shiny leaflets. Some ticks carry disease; check your clothing also be prepared for strong east or Santa Ana winds. The ocean currents outside of coves and and exposed skin after hiking. protected beach areas can be strong and extremely dangerous. These conditions should be care- • In order to help prevent wildfires,do not smoke on trails or in brush areas. Smoking is fully considered when planning your trip and entering the water. In addition to the regulations and allowed only on beaches or other designated areas. guidelines listed in the “Limiting Your Impact” section, the following suggestions should also be • In departing from the islands, visitors are responsible for meeting the boat concession- considered: aire on time. Be aware of departure time by asking the ranger or concessionaire employees. • There are no lifeguards on duty, so all water sports are at your own risk. Visitors should be

 Island Views National Park Service Centennial Initiative

(particularly in the marine waters surround- In 2016, the National Park Service (NPS) tional Park Service, entitled “The Future of parks. They will also identify and outline the ing the islands), several actions are underway will be 100 years old. Many believe that America’s National Parks” that outlines a specific projects and programs to be proposed “A vital goal for this to eliminate non-native species and restore national parks are one of America’s best ideas, vision to ensure that the American love affair for public/private funding between now and country would be to pre- altered ecosystems, park visitation has tripled, born from the spirit and values that founded with national parks endures. Kempthorne 2016.” pare the parks, to guard and recreational uses and use patterns have this country. The national park idea didn’t explained that the NPS will: 1) America in While the report includes some potential the parks, to conserve the changed. come from the European old world, where preserving and restoring treasured resources; on-the-ground actions and examples, they are many of the best places were reserved or 2) demonstrate environmental leadership; just that, examples. The report is not meant to parks, to make the parks How can you get involved? owned by the wealthy and powerful. It came 3) offer superior recreational experiences; 4) be a listing of the specific projects. relevant to the American Public involvement is critical to the success instead from a new country where “of the foster exceptional learning opportunities that Some of the actions are summarized by the people in honor of the of the planning effort. Public input will help people, by the people, for the people,” was connect people to parks; and 5) be managed Secretary in the report: “The 21st-century 100th anniversary.” the planning team and decision makers learn a founding principle. From its origins in this with excellence. National Park Service will be energized to -President George W. Bush about the concerns, issues, expectations, and new nation, the idea has spread throughout In addition, Kempthorne stated that by preserve parks and welcome visitors. Stew- February 7, 2007 desires of visitors, interested citizens, people the world. 2016, the National Park Service plans to: 1) ardship and science will guide decisions. with traditional cultural ties to the park, inter- What does it say about the citizens of a improve priority facilities to acceptable condi- An inventory of all wildlife in parks will be potential $3 billion infusion for the National est groups, and others. The planning team will country who, through their government, are tion; 2) restore native habitats by control- completed, a vital baseline to monitor change Park System. The president has already pro- share information and seek public input at willing to set aside the most beautiful and ling invasive species and reintroducing key and adjust management. Strategic acquisitions posed $1 billion over 10 years, above key points throughout the planning process. A significant places for all to enjoy as national plant and animal species; 3) improve natural will protect landscapes. Parks will be known as existing budgets, be spent on park opera- variety of methods will be used to encourage park sites? What does it say about all who want resources in parks as measured by scientific America’s best classrooms. We will work care- tions. He also called for Americans to do- public feedback, including publishing newslet-to give something back, to support, and to vital signs monitoring; 4) reduce environmen- fully to add new parks to tell America’s stories. nate $1 billion over 10 years to the National ters, sending public releases to the media, share these best places with everyone? How tal impacts of park operations; 5) double the Facilities will be in better condition. Hallowed Park Service to be matched by up to $1 holding public meetings, and posting informa- does setting aside and taking care of our most amount of volunteer hours; 6) enroll two mil- battlefields will be preserved. Majestic species billion from a special centennial account. tion on the Internet. special places speak to the shaping of our lion new Junior Rangers; 7) encourage greater that symbolize this nation, such as bison and Bomar said it will take “an army of For more information about the planning children’s current and future values? What partnership and philanthropy; and 8) reshape bald eagles, will thrive in their native habitats. supporters” to help reach the centennial process contact: Channel Islands National message does our actions today send to our the workforce to meet the needs of America. A new era of private-public partnerships goals. “From national organizations like the Park, Attention: GMP Coordinator, 1901 children tomorrow? Bomar said, “The men and women of the will bring greater excellence to parks. More National Park Foundation to more than 160 Spinnaker Drive, Ventura, CA 93001-4354; or As the NPS approaches the 2016 Centen- National Park Service will transform these volunteers will add value to park experi- park friends groups and 66 park cooperat- [email protected]. You can also log on to the nial, we have an opportunity to consider goals into reality. We will be accountable to the ences. The latest information technology will ing associations to 140,000 volunteers, we park’s home page at www.nps.gov/chis or the how our national park sites meet our needs American people for our actions and develop captivate young people with the national park will rely on them to augment the efforts of NPS planning web page at www.nps.gov/plan- today—and how we want our parks to serve benchmarks to measure our success. We will story. Children will reconnect to the outdoors the 20,000 men and women of the National ning. All newsletters will be posted on the web our needs for the next 100 years. To do that, report back to the citizens to tell them how we and lead healthier lives. A new generation of Park Service.” sites, along with an electronic response form. a 10-year National Park Service Centennial are doing.” conservationists will convey parks unimpaired Bomar said, “This is not only a report to Please let us know your concerns, issues, and Challenge has begun. In the spring of 2007, The goals, national strategies, and selected to the next generation.” the president but a pledge to the American thoughts on what should be addressed in the a series of nationwide listening sessions was centennial projects and programs will be sup- Bomar will work with the employees of the people, who are shareholders in the greatest GMP. The CINP planning team appreciates conducted where thousands of Americans, ported by centennial plans for each of the 391 NPS and with park advocacy groups to recom- system of parks and special places in the your interest and looks forward to hearing offered recommendations and ideas. NPS sites. Bomar said, “Superintendents are mend criteria for prioritizing and selecting world … a pledge that the men and women from you. In May 2007 a report was unveiled by the working with park friends, advocacy groups, centennial projects. of the National Park Service will continue to Dirk Kempthorne, Secretary of the Interior, and community leaders to prepare the vision As proposed in the president’s Fiscal Year preserve these wonderful places for genera- and Mary Bomar, the Director of the Na- and outline specific actions for their own 2008 Budget, the Centennial Initiative is a tions yet to come.”

aware of boat landing operations at all Rodents and Hantavirus times—avoid water sports near skiffs Hantavirus has recently been found in deer mouse populations at Channel Islands National that are conducting surf landings. Park. This mouse-carried virus also has been found in many locations on the mainland. This is a • Snorkelers, kayakers, divers, and swimmers potentially fatal disease, and some basic precautions should be taken. should always use the buddy system. • Avoid contact with rodents. Rodents are hosts for a variety of diseases and parasites, This allows for someone to go for help if including ticks and fleas, which may carry plague and rabies. Hantavirus is transmitted you encounter trouble. through the body fluids of the deer mouse and can become aerosolized when large • For your own safety, the law requires divers

Tim Hauf masses of feces and dried urine are disturbed. People hiking and camping on the islands to display a dive flag while diving. It are considered to be at low risk; most cases of hantavirus infection have occurred when is recommended that spear guns be un- Snorkelers, Landing Cove, Santa Barbara Island people have cleaned out or lived in buildings that have been inhabited by large numbers loaded at least 50 feet from the beach. of rodents for many years. The precautions for avoiding infection by hantavirus are the • Before departing, swimmers, kayakers, snorkelers and divers should leave an itinerary and/ same as those for the avoidance of any illness that may be contracted from rodents. or float plan with someone who is on shore and can be easily contacted. When camping or hiking on the islands, the basic practices of cleanliness will reduce your • Sea caves can be very dangerous—large waves or swells can fill a cave unexpectedly. Be ex- chance of rodent contact. tremely careful and wear a helmet at all times when exploring sea caves. • Do not feed any wild animals. Viruses and diseases are often passed through saliva. To • Due to cold water conditions (55° to 70° F), wetsuits and hoods are recommended. reduce your chances of being bitten, avoid contact with wild animals. • Keep food and drink in rodent-proof containers. On the islands, the mice are mostly Surfing active at night, but will also come out during the day while you are away from your site. Depending on the swell direction, surfing can be done at several locations on Santa Cruz, Santa It is best to keep food and dishes in plastic coolers or other containers that mice can- Rosa, and San Miguel Islands. Generally, the north shore is best during the north-west swells of not chew through. This also applies to trash. It is not recommended to store food within winter/spring and the south shore is best during the south swells of summer/fall. All surf spots are tents, backpacks, or clothing since mice have been known to chew through these items. remote and are best accessed by private boat due to the islands’ rugged terrain and the hiking • Prevent entry of mice into your tent. Mice will go everywhere in their search for food, distance from the designated landing areas where the park concession vessels drop off visitors. so keep your tent screen zipped even when you are nearby. Keep your clothing and foot- Contact local area surf shops for more information. wear inside your sealed tent especially at night. • Symptoms of hantavirus infection: Infection by hantavirus causes flu-like symptoms Boating and Kayaking followed by acute respiratory distress. If you experience fever, aches, and/or stomach Please refer to the “Boating and Kayaking” article on page 20. cramps and believe you may have had contact with rodents within the last 30 days, con- tact your physician immediately and inform your physician that you have had contact with Tidepooling rodents and possibly hantavirus. Please refer to the “Tidepooling” article on page 23.

Island Views  Anacapa Island

Crossing the channel to Anacapa Island, one begins to away from the nest in July. understand why the island’s name was derived from its Chumash Na- The rocky shores of Anacapa are perfect resting and breeding areas Things To Do tive American Indian name, “Ennepah.” Seeming to change shape in for California sea lions and harbor seals. The raucous barking of sea the summer fog or afternoon heat, the three islets of Anacapa look like lions can be heard from most areas of the island. Two overlooks (Cathe- • The perfect place for a half-day, an island of deception or a mirage. Almost five miles long, these islets dral Cove and Pinniped Point) provide excellent spots to look down on one-day, or short overnight camping (appropriately named East, Middle, and West Islands) are inaccessible seals and sea lions in the island coves. trip. If you have time to visit just one island, this may be the place. from each other except by boat. They have a total land area of about Anacapa’s rich kelp forests (ideal for kayaking, snorkeling, and div- • Almost all trips to Anacapa are to one square mile (700 acres). Waves have eroded the volcanic island, ing) and tidepool areas provide visitors with the opportunity to meet East Anacapa Island. A limited num- creating towering sea cliffs, sea caves, and natural bridges, such as forty- some of the resident ocean animals up close. Visitors may also catch ber of trips are offered throughout foot-high Arch Rock—the symbol of Anacapa and Channel Islands a glimpse of the fascinating undersea world of the kelp forest without the year to Frenchys Cove on West National Park. getting wet. During the summer, park rangers dive into the Landing Anacapa Island. Exploring East Anacapa’s 1.5-mile trail system allows visitors to Cove on East Anacapa with a video camera. Visitors can see, through • Although hiking options are limited experience the island’s native vegetation, wildlife, and cultural his- the eye of the camera, what the diver is seeing—bright sea stars, spiny with only two miles of trails, the tory. Although for much of the year the island vegetation looks brown sea urchins, and brilliant orange Garibaldi—by watching video moni- scenery is unmatched. Except for and lifeless, the winter rains transform the landscape. Emerging from tors located on the dock or in the mainland visitor center auditorium. the staircase to the top of the island, dormancy, the native plants come alive with color. The strange tree Divers answer questions from visitors while they are underwater with a the trails are relatively flat and easy. sunflower, or coreopsis, blossoms with bright yellow bouquets that are voice communication system and some help from a park interpreter on Access to West Anacapa is from the water only and is limited to Frenchys so vivid and numerous they can sometimes be seen from the mainland. the dock. This program is simultaneously transmitted to the mainland Cove. Vibrant red paintbrush, island morning glories, and pale buckwheat visitor center. • Ideal place for swimming, snorkeling, add touches of color to the island’s palette. Anacapa Island has a rich human history as well. Shell midden sites diving, kayaking, and fishing (see Seabirds are probably the most conspicuous wildlife on Anacapa indicate where camped on the islands thousands of regulations p. 20). Since Anacapa is a Island. Thousands of birds use Anacapa as a nesting area because of the years ago. In addition, visitors can view the 1937 light station whose cliff island, access to the water is only relative lack of predators on the island. While the steep cliffs of West Mission Revival style buildings include the lighthouse, fog signal build- at the Landing Cove on East Anacapa Anacapa are home to the largest breeding colony of endangered Cali- ing, one of four original keeper’s quarters, a water tank building, and (no beaches) and at Frenchys Cove fornia brown pelicans, all the islets of Anacapa host the largest breeding several other service buildings. The original lead-crystal Fresnel lens, on West Anacapa. colony of western gulls in the world. Western gulls begin their nesting which served as a beacon to ships until an automated light replaced it in • Underwater interpretive program is efforts at the end ofA pril, sometimes making their shallow nests just 1990, is now on exhibit in the East Anacapa Visitor Center. offered during the summer. inches from island trails. Fluffy chicks hatch in May and June and fly • Excellent wildlife viewing—seabirds (gull chicks in early summer), seals, and sea lions.

Refer to related articles for more information.

Island Facts

• Located in Ventura County. • Five miles long and 1/4 mile wide Tim Hauf Tim Hauf • Average rainfall is between eight and Lighthouse, coreopsis, and Indian paintbrush Arch Rock with tall ship thirteen inches per year. • The Anacapa deer mouse is only Hiking Information found on Anacapa Island. • Frenchy LeDreau lived at Frenchys Anacapa Island provides critically Destination Distance Difficulty Description Cove from 1928 to 1956. important habitat for seabirds, pinnipeds, (from visitor center) (miles, round-trip) • 29 Chumash archeological sites and endemic plants and animals. The island’s • 130 sea caves steep, lava rock cliffs have numerous caves and Inspiration Point 1.5 Easy Extraordinary views. Not to be missed. • The Anacapa lighthouse, turned on in 1932, was the last permanent crevices that are particularly important for Lighthouse .5 Easy View the historic lighthouse built in 1932. lighthouse built on the west coast. the increasingly rare seabird species, Xantus’s · Hikers must stay on trails to protect fragile vegetation and nesting seabirds and for visitor safety. • Harbor seals and California sea lions murrelet and ashy storm-petrel. The larg-

· Access to Middle (ranger-guided only) and West Anacapa (Frenchys Cove only) Islands is from the water Tim Hauf rest and breed on the island. est breeding colony of the California brown only. Concession trips are offered throughout the year to Frenchys Cove. pelican in the United States is Anacapa Island, Western gull with chick and a unique subspecies of deer mouse occurs only here as well. The Anacapa ecosystem, however, has been degraded by the presence of non-native black rats (Rattus rattus). Rats have been introduced to over 80% of the world’s islands, accounting for an estimated 40-60 percent of all bird and reptile extinctions in the world. On Anacapa, rats were introduced prior to 1940, most likely as stowaways on ships to the island. They have had large impacts on nesting seabirds, prey- ing heavily on eggs and chicks of seabirds as their food source. Approximately 40 percent of Xantus’s murrelet nests on Anacapa have shown evidence of egg predation. Rats also prey directly on the native island deer mouse. In the mid-1990s the park teamed with the Island Conservation and Ecology Group (ICEG) to determine if and how rats could be eradicated from Anacapa Island. ICEG, active internationally in the restoration of island ecosystems through the eradication of non- native species, was aware of several successful eradications of rats from islands, particularly  Island Views Channel Islands Live

Things To Do Despite its location just off the coast of nel Islands are increasingly affected by coastal Santa Barbara and Ventura—and a mere development, offshore oil drilling, toxic dump- stone’s throw from the suburban sprawl of ing, and commercial and recreational fishing— • The perfect place for a half-day, Los Angeles—Channel Islands National Park but receive very little human understanding. one-day, or short overnight camping and National Marine Sanctuary are worlds With the advent of the underwater interpre- trip. If you have time to visit just one away from the 21 million people who call tive program in 1985 that situation is being island, this may be the place. southern California home. remedied. Through advanced underwater • Almost all trips to Anacapa are to technology, many park and sanctuary visitors East Anacapa Island. A limited num- Bringing the Islands to the People are enjoying their first journey into the marine ber of trips are offered throughout Because of the park’s and sanctuary’s world—without ever getting wet! The audience the year to Frenchys Cove on West remote location, the National Park Service joins the program via television monitors on Anacapa Island. developed the underwater interpretive Anacapa Island or in the visitor center on the • Although hiking options are limited program over 21 years ago to offer visitors mainland. Park divers don a special micro- with only two miles of trails, the a rare glimpse into the marine ecosystem phone-equipped dive mask for communication scenery is unmatched. Except for off Anacapa Island. Few visitors to Channel to the surface and descend into the kelp forest the staircase to the top of the island, Islands National Park are aware that almost camera in hand. The camera is turned on and the trails are relatively flat and easy. half of the park’s resources are located the kelp forest comes to life. From underwater, Access to West Anacapa is from the beneath the sea. The park boundary extends the divers explain what the TV monitors are water only and is limited to Frenchys one mile around each of the five park islands revealing. The kelp forest and its many inhabit- Bill Kendig Cove. and the sanctuary boundary extends six miles, ants are unveiled and explained as the visitors Channel Islands Live divers in the Landing Cove at Anacapa Island • Ideal place for swimming, snorkeling, encompassing one of the most diverse marine and divers “hike” among spiny sea urchins, diving, kayaking, and fishing (see environments in the world. iridescent abalone and soft, slow-moving sea regulations p. 20). Since Anacapa is a Off the southern California coast and cucumbers. Brightly colored fish move through local politicians, biologists, environmentalists, and sanctuary to county students and eventu- cliff island, access to the water is only within the boundaries of the park and sanctu- the forest and are captured through the cam- teachers, schoolchildren, and the general public ally to the public nationwide. at the Landing Cove on East Anacapa ary lie great forests of seaweed called kelp. era’s eye. The story of the kelp forest is told, from all over the country have participated. This project has special educational impor- (no beaches) and at Frenchys Cove These towering ocean algae flourish in the and those that hear it are the very ones who Hopefully, few leave unaffected by its message tance as research shows that students better on West Anacapa. waters surrounding the Channel Islands and will determine its future. With this program, of conservation and protection. understand key science concepts through • Underwater interpretive program is are an integral part of the park resources. the seeds of understanding are planted. It is multimedia and interdisciplinary approaches. offered during the summer. Over 1,000 species of plants and animals live the hope of the National Park Service that from The Future of Channel Islands Live Live access to the resources and scientists bet- • Excellent wildlife viewing—seabirds in the upper 60 feet of the water column in a these seeds will grow the desire to preserve and The National Park Service is now looking to ter prepares students with science and tech- (gull chicks in early summer), seals, kelp forest. Seals, sea lions, algae, fishes, and protect this irreplaceable resource. expand this program and develop innovative nology literacy needed for the 21st century. and sea lions. marine invertebrates all blend together under During the summer, this live dive is presented ways for the American Public and students to Please visit www.nps.gov/chis for more the kelp canopy to form one of the most on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays at learn about the Channel Islands. The Ventura information on the Channel Islands Live Refer to related articles for more information. biologically diverse ecosystems in the world. 2:00 p.m. in the Landing Cove of Anacapa County Office of Education’s (VCOE) wireless program. Traditionally, this unseen yet crucial marine Island and broadcast back to the mainland project provides just this venue—a way to bring ecosystem has suffered from an out-of-sight, visitor center in Ventura. It is open to the public the islands to the people wherever they may out-of-mind philosophy. Like ocean habitats free of charge. Thousands of people have seen be. Partnering with the VCOE is a natural fit to the world over, the kelp forests of the Chan- this program—foreign visitors, national and bring live science and research from the park Restoring Anacapa Island

Anacapa Island provides critically in New Zealand. Rats have been eradicated trustees supported eradication of the black rat number of birds visiting nesting colonies important habitat for seabirds, pinnipeds, on over 100 islands worldwide by applying from Anacapa Island because it is one of the ranging from 58 percent to more than two and endemic plants and animals. The island’s rodenticide bait; trapping alone has never most significant islands for breeding seabirds times higher when compared to the number steep, lava rock cliffs have numerous caves and succeeded. in southern California. of detections that we recorded per night in crevices that are particularly important for Anacapa Island presented special challeng- The bait application (from a hopper sus- any of the previous years.” Nest surveys by the increasingly rare seabird species, Xantus’s es. The island has extensive steep cliffs, making pended under a helicopter) was scheduled researchers from Humboldt State University murrelet and ashy storm-petrel. The larg- placement of bait into the territory of every rat during the fall, the end of the dry season, have found 14 murrelet nests, including the est breeding colony of the California brown difficult. The endemic deer mice would feed when rats were very hungry and both visita- first documented on CatR ock since 1927. pelican in the United States is Anacapa Island, on any bait that was attractive to rats. The tion and bird populations were low. Protection Channel Islands National Park Superin- and a unique subspecies of deer mouse occurs endangered California brown pelican, of the native deer mice had two components: tendent Russell Galipeau, comments, “This only here as well. extremely sensitive to disturbance, breeds and a) holding a small population of mice in project was critical to protecting and restor- The Anacapa ecosystem, however, has been nests on a large portion of the island during captivity, and b) maintaining deer mice in the ing the rare and unique wildlife on Anacapa. degraded by the presence of non-native black eight months of the year. wild by treating East Anacapa one year prior to The National Park Service is dedicated to rats (Rattus rattus). Rats have been introduced Following extensive consultation with treating Middle and West Anacapa. ensuring a diverse, naturally functioning to over 80% of the world’s islands, accounting experts, the park and ICEG determined that Phase I, application of bait to East Anacapa island ecosystem.” for an estimated 40-60 percent of all bird and rats could be eradicated through the distribu- Island, was completed in December 2001 Numerous environmental groups reptile extinctions in the world. On Anacapa, tion of bait pellets with brodifacoum, the an- and Phase II, treatment of Middle and West endorsed the project including the American rats were introduced prior to 1940, most likely ticoagulant used in the majority of successful Anacapa, was completed in fall 2002. Exten- Bird Conservancy, Pacific Seabird Group, as stowaways on ships to the island. They have rat eradications. This product contains half the sive ecological monitoring pre- and post-rat California Audubon Society, Endangered had large impacts on nesting seabirds, prey- amount of rodenticide found in products that eradication was conducted to determine the Species Recovery Council, Audubon ing heavily on eggs and chicks of seabirds as homeowners commonly purchase in the local environmental impacts of the project. This Living Oceans, and Jean-Michel Cousteau’s their food source. Approximately 40 percent grocery store, and it would not accumulate monitoring has found substantial recovery Ocean Futures. American Bird Conservancy of Xantus’s murrelet nests on Anacapa have in the environment since it breaks down into of rare seabirds and other native wildlife on President, George H. Fenwick, stated, “The shown evidence of egg predation. Rats also harmless carbon dioxide in water. Anacapa Island following the eradication of Anacapa Island project is precisely the type prey directly on the native island deer mouse. Fortuitously, the American Trader Trustee rats. Mouse populations have returned to of well-designed, extensively researched, In the mid-1990s the park teamed with Council (ATTC), consisting of California normal, and they are breeding abundantly in and responsibly implemented program that the Island Conservation and Ecology Group Department of Fish and Game, National the wild, while juvenile side-blotched lizards the American Bird Conservancy supports (ICEG) to determine if and how rats could be Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, and and slender salamanders are thriving in the and encourages. The long-term benefits of eradicated from Anacapa Island. ICEG, active the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, had court absence of rats. rat eradication on Anacapa Island are enor- internationally in the restoration of island settlement monies resulting from an oil spill in Scientists have recorded a dramatic and mous for the conservation of one of North ecosystems through the eradication of non- southern California. The purpose, in part, of positive response by Xantus’s murrelets. America’s most distinctive ecosystems.” native species, was aware of several successful the settlement monies was to restore sea- Thomas Hamer, of Hamer Environmental, eradications of rats from islands, particularly bird populations injured by the oil spill. The reports, “We have detected increases in the Island Views  Partners in Preservation

The park has many partners that Channel Islands assist in preserving and protecting the Chan- National Marine Sanctuary nel Islands. Together, we are a bulwark for In 1980 approximately 1,128 square nauti- cultural and biological diversity, preserving the cal miles of the was islands’ history and prehistory, and protecting given special protected status with the designa- vital habitat for scores of marine and terrestrial tion of Channel Islands National Marine plant and animal species. In addition, we pro- Sanctuary (CINMS). The sanctuary is an area vide for the enjoyment of these resources in of national significance because of its excep- such a manner that will leave them unimpaired tional natural beauty and resources. CINMS is for future generations. part of a large network of 13 National Marine In this issue, we are highlighting two of the Sanctuaries and one Marine National Monu- partners, Channel Islands National Marine ment. The sanctuary encompasses the waters Sanctuary and Western National Parks Associ- that surround Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa ation. Please visit “Our Partners” at www.nps. Rosa, San Miguel, and Santa Barbara Islands, gov/chis for a complete list of park partners. extending from mean high tide to six nautical miles offshore around each of the five islands. Western National Parks Association The sanctuary’s primary goal is the protection Western National Parks Association of the natural and cultural resources con-

(WNPA) is a nonprofit cooperating associa- tained within its boundaries. CINMS protects CHIS Marine Sanctuary tion of the National Park Service. Headquar- resources and connects to the public with the Garibaldi and diver in kelp forest, Anacapa Island tered in Tucson, Arizona, the association programs described below. was founded in 1938 with the mission of Research: Sanctuary research efforts focus available; and 2) inform sanctuary constitu- promoting the preservation of the National on evaluating ecosystem health, collecting ents, including the general public, about the Park System and its resources by creating data on living marine resources, assessing the sanctuary, its regulations, and the management greater public appreciation through education, impact of human activities, implementing actions it has planned for the next five years. interpretation, and research. Today, WNPA effective resource management strategies, and The sanctuary anticipates publishing the final operates bookstores at sixty-fiveN ational increasing understanding of the importance plan in early winter 2008. Park Service sites throughout the western of the sanctuary. The sanctuary works with a Maritime Heritage: CIMNS is respon- United States, plus an online store with more variety of partners to manage the resources sible for the protection and preservation of than 600 educational products. In addition to of the sanctuary, such as research on seabirds, submerged remains of the past that occupy developing publications, WNPA supports park deepwater characterization, and monitoring the seafloor of the sanctuary. Cultural and research and helps fund programs that make of kelp forests and marine reserves. CINMS historic submerged sites include archeological park visits more meaningful. provides a staff with a wealth of expertise as remains of shipwrecks and prehistoric land One of WNPA’s founding goals was to well as the use of its research vessels—the R/V sites. Sanctuary stewardship responsibilities create and publish park-related information Shearwater and the R/V Xantu—and its aerial include a mandate to inventory sites, encour- unavailable elsewhere. Currently, the WNPA monitoring program in moving forward with age research, provide public education, and has more than 175 books in print with many its commitment to furthering research and oversee responsible visitor use. new publications introduced yearly. understanding. Education and Outreach: The goal of the WNPA supports parks by producing more Resource Protection: The sanctuary CINMS’s education and outreach program is than a half million pieces of free literature emphasizes the protection of the marine to promote understanding, support, and par- One of over 140 protected shipwrecks in the annually, including trail guides, newspapers, environment for the long-term benefit and ticipation in the protection and conservation sanctuary and park, the steamer Winfield Scott schedules, and brochures. enjoyment of the public. Most of the sanctu- of marine resources. The sanctuary provides a grounded and sank off the north shore of Middle Anacapa in 1853. Since 1938, the WNPA has contributed ary is open to multiple uses, and the harvesting variety of outreach and educational programs more than $25 million to national parks, gen- of kelp, fish, and invertebrates is permitted for teachers, students, resource users, and Sanctuary and Park Shipwrecks erated through store sales to park visitors and in many areas. Within the boundaries of the the general public. Current programs include There are many documented shipwrecks in the support of its members. sanctuary there are several regulatory agencies annual workshops for teachers and marine the waters of the sanctuary and park such as For more information about WNPA, please (federal, state and local) that have overlapping educators including teachers at sea program; the four-masted schooner Watson A. West, visit www.wnpa.org. jurisdictions and management responsibilities. internship and volunteer opportunities (for in- stranded off of San Miguel Island and the Cali- Books and materials about Channel Islands A network of Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) formation about the Channel Islands Natural- fornia Gold-Rush passenger steamer Winfield National Park are available for sale through that restrict and/or prohibit harvest has been ist Corps, a joint sanctuary and park volunteer Scott which stranded on Anacapa Island and WNPA at the park visitor center or by mail established by NOAA and the California Fish program, see page 24); multicultural outreach is listed in the National Register of Historic order by calling (805) 658-5738. and Game Commission to protect and restore through the MERITO program (Multicultural Places. The significant number of shipwrecks habitats and ecosystems in 21 percent of the Education for Resources Issues Threatening within the sanctuary’s and park’s boundaries can largely be attributed to prevailing sanctuary. See the next page for a complete Oceans); exhibits and signage in museums, currents and weather conditions, combined description of the Channel Islands MPAs. aquaria, and public sites; sanctuary Interactive with natural hazards. To protect the natural and cultural Kiosks; community outreach events, educa- The shipwreck remains of the Channel resources of the sanctuary, discharge of tional brochures and posters; and a website Islands reflect the diverse range of activities untreated sewage and certain food wastes, that hosts over 7,000 pages of information and nationalities that traversed the Santa drilling, dredging, oil exploration, and distur- about the sanctuary. CINMS also provides Barbara Channel. European sailing and steam bance of cultural artifacts, seabirds and marine additional opportunities for community vessels, California-built Chinese junks, mammals are prohibited. For a complete involvement through the Sanctuary Advisory American coastal traders, vessels engaged listing of sanctuary regulations please visit Council. The council provides a public forum in island commerce, and a Gold-Rush-era channelislands.noaa.gov. for consultation and community deliberation side-wheel steamer have all been lost in these The National Marine Sanctuary Program on resource management issues affecting the waters. Each has a story to tell about the his- tory, technology and society of earlier times. (NMSP) is updating the management plan waters surrounding the Channel Islands. Between the years 1853 to 1980, an inventory for the Channel Islands National Marine Contact Information: of over 140 shipwrecks has been documented Sanctuary. This includes a review of resource Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary in Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary Western National Parks Association’s Channel Is- protection actions, education and research 113 Harbor Way #150 and National Park. To date about twenty sites lands National Park is just one of the books available programs, the program’s resource and staffing Santa Barbara, CA 93109 have been located. The sanctuary and park for sale at the Vistor Center and online. (805) 966-7107 needs, and sanctuary regulations and bound- have a very active shipwreck reconnaissance aries. The management plan is a road map program, and several of the submerged sites 3600 S. Harbor Blvd. Ste.111 for sanctuary management that serves to: 1) Oxnard, CA 93035 have been recorded through the development guide site management toward achievement (805) 382-6149 of underwater maps.

of the sanctuary’s goals using the best means http://channelislands.noaa.gov  Island Views Channel Islands Marine Protected Areas

Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) are special marine zones established to protect and restore habitats and ecosystems, conserve biodiversity, provide a refuge for sea life, enhance recreational and educational oppor- tunities, provide reference areas for scientific research, and may help rebuild depleted fisheries. One type of MPA is a marine reserve, a new tool in marine ecosystem management, where all forms of take, such as fishing, are prohibited. Currently, less than one percent of the world’s oceans and less than 0.01 per- cent of U.S. waters are designated as marine reserves.

Designation Process In 1998 a local recreational fishing group recommended the establishment of MPAs around the Channel Islands as a response to declining fish populations. InA pril 1999 the National Marine Sanctuary Program (NMSP) and the California Department of Fish and Game (CDFG) worked with the Sanctuary Ad- visory Council (SAC) to create a community group to consider MPAs in the water around the Channel Islands. The community group was comprised of fishermen; conservationists; divers; and park, sanctuary, and CDFG per- sonnel. For two years, the group met monthly to receive, weigh, and integrate advice from a science advisory panel, a team of economists, and the public. Ultimately, the community group agreed MPAs could protect, maintain, and restore marine ecosystems, provide a precautionary measure against the impacts of an expanding human population and management uncer- tainties, offer education and research opportu- There are a variety of types of MPAs in state, sanctuary, and park waters, including: nities, and provide reference areas. The com- munity group did not agree on a single MPA MARINE RESERVE (MR) network, rather it forwarded all of its advice Prohibits all take of living, geological, or to the SAC and on to the NMSP and CDFG cultural resources. Scientific take may be to craft an MPA network recommendation. permitted. Based on the community’s work and scien- MARINE CONSERVATION AREA (MCA) tific input (incluing over 20 years of scientific Prohibits the same activities as a marine Robert Schwemmer Robert Schwemmer monitoring of the kelp forest by the National reserve, except in the Anacapa MCA com Park Service), the agencies developed an MPA mercial and recreational harvest of lobster The sanctuary’s research vessel R/V Shearwater California sheephead populations off southern and recreational harvest of pelagic finfish1 serves as an important platform for scientists to California have declined because of fishing pressure network that connected nearshore and deeper study the MPAs around the Channel Islands. and reduced kelp beds. offshore waters, representative portions of is allowed, and in the Painted Cave MCA recreational harvest of lobster and pelagic each marine habitat, such as kelp, rocky reef, Agency and university scientists are looking to management, research, and education too, finfish is allowed. Scientific take may be soft sediment and submarine canyons. at how well the MPAs in the Channel Islands because relatively undisturbed areas (i.e., ref- permitted. In October 2002 the CDFG Commis- restore fishes and invertebrates and their habi- erence areas) will be available for comparison sion approved the NMSP and CDFG MPA Unless specifically prohibited, activities such tats. Within MPAs, the abundance, size, bio- with areas outside the MPAs. Lastly, the net- network recommendation. In 2003 the state as diving, surfing, swimming, and boating are mass, and diversity of targeted (fished) species work is expected to be beneficial for intrinsic of California established 102 square nautical allowed as long as take restrictions are fol- are expected to increase as compared to areas values and for future generations. lowed. Anchoring within and transit through miles of MPAs in state waters (0 to 3 nautical outside of the MPAs2. Also, habitats support- In February 2008 the sanctuary, CDFG, MPAs with catch onboard is allowed, so long miles). In June 2006, to provide protection to ing marine populations are expected to benefit and Partnership of Interdisciplinary Studies as fishing gear is stowed and not in use. the seafloor and groundfish, National Ocean via reduced disturbance by fishing gear. of Coastal Oceans will host a special session at and Atmospheric Association’s (NOAA) Fish- The sanctuary, park, and state continue the California Islands Symposium and provide percent of the sanctuary waters in 11 marine eries Service designated the federal waters (3 to monitor impacts of the nearshore MPAs a five-year comprehensive review of the state reserves and two marine conservation areas. to 6 nautical miles offshore) beyond the state created in 2003. For the offshore MPAs MPAs established in 2003. There will be When completed the Channel Islands MPA MPAs as habitat areas of particular concern established in 2007, the sanctuary predicts presentations on the biological and economic network will be the largest in the continental and prohibited bottom fishing under the the impacts to be minimal on existing com- monitoring, education and outreach efforts, United States. Nearly 80 percent of the sanctu- Magnuson-Stevens Fishery Conservation and mercial and recreational fishing because there and compliance over the last five years. ary remains open to fishing in accordance with ______Management Act. On July 29, 2007, the NMSP is little fishing activity in the deeper offshore 1Pelagic finfish are defined as: northern anchovy(Engraulis normal state and federal fishing regulations. mordax),barracudas (Sphyraena spp.), billfishes (family Istiophoridae), prohibited any other take within the federal waters as compared to the near shore waters. dolphinfish(Coryphaena hippurus), Pacific herring(Clupea pallasi), jack water MPAs under the National Marine Sanc- The sanctuary expects beneficial impacts to mackerel (Trachurus symmetricus), Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus), Working Together— salmon (Oncorhynchus spp.), Pacific sardine(Sardinops sagax), blue tuaries Act, adding 110.5 square nautical miles occur for non-consumptive recreational us- shark (Prionace glauca), salmon shark (Lamna ditropis), shortfin mako Monitoring, Outreach and Enforcement shark (Isurus oxyrinchus), thresher sharks (Alopias spp.), swordfish as marine reserves and 1.7 square nautical ers because of increases in wildlife diversity (Xiphias gladius), tunas (family Scombridae), and yellowtail (Seriola The sanctuary, park, state of California, lalandi). miles as marine conservation areas. As of July providing enhanced viewing opportunities. 2Species that are not fished or not fished heavily may not show signifi- US Coast Guard, university partners, and 2007, the MPA network in state and federal Benefits may also be derived from the decrease cant changes in abundance and size as a result of the MPA designation. the public are working together to monitor waters is 214.1 square nautical miles. in the density of users or in the reduction in MPA effects, develop and distribute informa- The total size of the MPA network will be conflicts with consumptive users within MPAs. tion to enhance compliance, and enforce the 240.4 square nautical miles and encompass 21 The MPA network is expected to be beneficial network. Island Views  Camping

Camping is available year-round on all five islands in Channel Islands National Park in National Park Service-managed campgrounds. There is currently one established camp- ground on each island: above the landing cove on Santa Barbara; on the east islet of Anacapa, at Scorpion Ranch on Santa Cruz, at Water Canyon on Santa Rosa, and above Cuyler Harbor on San Miguel. No camping is allowed on The Nature Conservancy’s western 76 percent of Santa Cruz Island. Limited backcountry camping is available on Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa Islands. Please refer to the “Backcountry Camping” section below for more information.

Camping Transportation Because concession boats fill to capacity much faster than campground limits are met, camp- Tim Hauf

ers must first secure transportation for an overnight trip to Channel Islands National Park. For Tim Hauf transportation information, please refer to the “Transportation—How To Get There” section on page 2. Anacapa Island campground San Miguel Island campground

Camping Reservations Camping reservations are required for all of the campgrounds. There are no entrance fees to visit the park, however, campground fees are $15.00 per night per site. Reservations can be made no more than five months in advance. Information required for the reservations includes camping dates, transportation information, and number of campers. Reservations can be made by calling (877) 446-6777 or visiting www.recreation.gov. A confirmation notice will be mailed to campers.

Campground Facilities Camping conditions are primitive, and users must camp within designated areas. All camp- Tim Hauf Kathy deWet-Oleson grounds are equipped with picnic tables and pit toilets. Water is not available at campgrounds and must be brought with you except at the Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz Island campgrounds. No Scorpion Ranch campground, Santa Cruz Island Water Canyon campground, Santa Rosa Island fires are permitted. Enclosed camp stoves are permitted. Outer island campgrounds (San Miguel and Santa Rosa) have windbreaks for each campsite. Campsites are generally located close to one Campground Information another. No trash containers are provided; campers must pack out their own trash. Due to scavenging animals (including birds), campers are required to store all food and trash Island Required Distance From Landing Number of Campground Reservation to Campground Campsites Capacity in animal-proof containers. National Park Service food storage boxes are provided at campsites, but coolers, plastic Rubbermaid-type boxes, or other types of containers with sealing lids may be Anacapa Yes 154 stairs, 1/2 mile 7 30 used as well. eastern Santa Cruz Yes 1/2 mile, flat 40 240 Weather (Scorpion Ranch)

Campers should be prepared for a variety of weather conditions, especially on the outer western Santa Cruz NO CAMPING ALLOWED islands. Thirty-knot winds are not uncommon on Santa Rosa and San Miguel Islands. Sturdy, (The Nature Conservancy) low-profile tents, stakes, and line for securing tents to ground, table, or wind shelters are recom- mended. Fog can occur on the islands during any season producing cool, damp conditions. All Santa Rosa Yes 1 1/2 miles, flat 15 75 of the campgrounds, except eastern Santa Cruz, are located away from trees and shade. Overex- San Miguel Yes 1 mile; steep uphill 9 30 posure to the wind and sun can be a serious problem. Visitors are advised to bring supplies for an Santa Barbara Yes 1/2 mile, steep uphill 10 30 extra day in case boats are unable to pick up campers due to sea conditions.

Suggested Camping Gear tions tend to change from cool and damp in the mornings to bright, warm, and windy during the Campers must be prepared for the primitive campground facilities and weather conditions. afternoons. Clothing that protects against wind is advisable year-round. Hiking boots are recom- Supplies and gear are not available on the islands. Gear must be transported up ladders at most mended for most island trails. landing areas, and carried some distance to the campgrounds. Packing your gear in backpacks, Additional “needed” gear includes: hat/visor/cap; sunglasses; windbreaker/light jacket; shirts duffle bags, and containers with handles makes transportation easier. The boat concession- and pants that can be layered; normal clothing needs; food; sturdy tent; campstove/cooking gear; aire requires that items weigh no more than 45 pounds each. On some islands, visitors may get water (1 gallon per person, per day); sunscreen; flashlight; sleeping bag; matches; and first aid wet during loading and off-loading, so waterproof your gear.A n extra pair of shoes packed in kit. “Suggested” gear includes: bathing suit; gloves; poncho/rain jacket; sneakers/light footwear; waterproof material is recommended. Campers should plan to layer clothing, as weather condi- towel; seasick pills; garbage bags; camera/film; binoculars; toiletries; and sleeping pads.

Backcountry Camping

Backcountry camping is available year-round at the Del Norte campsite near camp within these designated sites. A picnic table, animal-proof container, and pit-style toilet are Prisoners Harbor on Santa Cruz Island. Also, during certain times of year, backcountry beach provided (campers must bring their own toilet paper). Water is not available. camping is allowed on Santa Rosa Island. The National Park Service opened these islands to limited backcountry camping in recognition of their rare wilderness values. As you explore these Santa Rosa Island wild areas by kayak or on foot, please take the responsibility to help us protect and preserve these Backcountry camping on Santa Rosa Island is currently limited to certain beaches between delicate natural resources for future generations. The following information is just an introduc- June 1st and December 31st. Hiking is along the beach and rugged, unsigned dirt roads or un- tion to backcountry camping in the park. Please refer to the “Backcountry Camping” site bulletin maintained animal paths. The closest beach for camping is 10 miles from the boat/plane drop-off for more information. This site bulletin is available at our website, www.nps.gov/chis, or from the location. Water is available year-round in some of the island’s canyons. park visitor center and is required reading prior to making your backcountry reservations. Weather and Reservations WARNING: While backcountry camping is an incredible experience, it is not for the Campers should be prepared for a variety of weather conditions. Strong winds are not uncom- inexperienced backpacker or kayaker. Due to difficult weather, rugged terrain, and off-trail mon. Fog can occur on the islands during any season producing cool, damp conditions. Shade is hiking, backcountry camping is an arduous endeavor and should be undertaken only by limited and overexposure to the wind and sun can be a serious problem. Visitors are advised to experienced, well-conditioned backpackers and kayakers. bring supplies for an extra day in case boats are unable to pick up campers due to sea conditions. Santa Cruz Island Backcountry campers must first secure boat transportation through the park’s boat or plane Del Norte is currently the only backcountry campground on Santa Cruz Island. It is nestled in concessionaires or by their own private vessel. Camping reservations are required in advance. a shaded oak grove, about 700 feet above sea level, and provides scenic views of the island’s pris- For Del Norte, call (877) 446-6777 or visit www.recreation.gov. For Santa Rosa beachcamping, tine coastline. The hike to the site is 3.5 miles from Prisoners Harbor and 12 miles from Scorpion call (805) 658-5711. Anchorage. The campground has four primitive campsites (four persons per site) and users must 10 Island Views Help Stop the Spread of Non-Native Species

Non-native, invasive species threaten endan- • While Hiking National Park Service gered animals and plants on the Channel Islands Trails can be pathways for a lot more than Channel Islands U.S. Department of the Interior and are costly to control. Learn how you can just people. Weeds often spread along trails Channel Islands National Park help prevent the introduction and spread of non- and then to adjacent uninfested areas. You can native species before they become a problem. help prevent this from happening by always staying on designated trails, avoid weed-infest- Public Notice Islands on the Edge: The Threat of Non- ed areas, and by not picking or transporting Native Plants and Animals plants when hiking on the islands. Pack out all Affected Areas—All Park Islands Plants and animals living on islands are trash. Just because a of trash—apple cores, especially vulnerable to extinction due to the orange seeds, etc.—is organic, doesn’t mean Pursuant to the Authority of the Superintendent under the Code of Federal Regu- physical boundaries, limited populations, and it can be left behind. Please be sure to pack lations Title 36 section 1.5 (a)(1)&(2) and section 2.1(a)(2) the following public lack of genetic variability. One threat to these out all trash. While most domestic fruit and use restrictions are imposed on the aforementioned area, to prevent introduction island species are non-native, invasive species. vegetable species are not invasive, some can of non-native species and use of unauthorized motorized vehicles and bicycles. Non-native, invasive species are also called germinate and become pests. Therefore the following types of items shall not be transported or delivered to any introduced species or exotic species. These island within Channel Islands National Park: terms refer to plants and animals that originate • Campfires elsewhere and are brought into a new area, Campfires are prohibited on the islands and • Pets or any animal where they may dominate the local species or common sense will tell you that they are dan- • Service animals, except by permit from the superintendent in some way negatively impact the environ- gerous and potentially harmful in other ways. • live or Potted Plants ment for native species. In addition to the threat of wildfire, firewood • Soil For example, many non-native, invasive brought from the mainland can harbor organ- • Cut Flowers weed species are plants that grow or spread isms that can be very destructive. This includes • Firewood or any wood with attached bark aggressively, taking over important wildlife the fungal-like disease “Sudden Oak Death” • Corrugated boxes habitat, devastating shelter and forage, and that kills several species of native trees. You • Tools or equipment with attached soil reducing the diversity and quality of native can help prevent the spread of this disease and • Motorized vehicles habitat. These weeds often do not hold and other harmful organisms by not transporting Campground Information • bicycles protect the soil the way native plants do, so firewood under any circumstances. Island Required Distance From Landing Number of Campground erosion increases and causes sedimentation of Reservation to Campground Campsites Capacity streams, harming fish populations and water • Domestic Animals quality. Although most people know that landing of Anacapa Yes 154 stairs, 1/2 mile 7 30 4-16-2007 The primary visitor landing points on the pets on the islands is prohibited, they probably ______eastern Santa Cruz Yes 1/2 mile, flat 40 240 park islands are often where we first find never imagine the danger domestic animals By Order of the Superintendent, Russell E. Galipeau, Jr. date (Scorpion Ranch) non-native, invasive species. Nearly half of can pose to wildlife. In 1999 canine distemper Channel Islands National Park western Santa Cruz NO CAMPING ALLOWED the endangered plants and animals in the killed almost all of the island foxes on the east- (The Nature Conservancy) United States have been negatively affected by ern portion of Catalina Island. Island foxes are Pursuant to CFR title 36 1.5 (c) - Determination - this restriction action is necessitated for the protection of the islands non-native, invasive species. In addition, these highly sensitive to disease, and pets and their unique values, ecological systems and protection of breeding populations of marine mammals, endangered species Santa Rosa Yes 1 1/2 miles, flat 15 75 of seabirds, eagles, islands foxes and other unique and rare species of flora and fauna inhabiting the Channel Islands species cause an estimated $138 billion in eco- droppings can spread pathogens and cause National Park. Less restrictive measures would have the potential for introduction of non-native species that could ad- San Miguel Yes 1 mile; steep uphill 9 30 nomic damage each year in the United States. other problems for wildlife. Even vaccinated versely effect many species and/or endanger the islands ecosystems. A dditionally the unauthorized vehicle and bicycle use would pose significant safety risks and adversely affect visitor experience and park values. and apparently healthy animals can be carriers Santa Barbara Yes 1/2 mile, steep uphill 10 30 How You Can Help of diseases that are potentially lethal to island EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA If you plan to visit the Channel Islands, you foxes. Although no one wants to leave a pet at probably care a great deal about protecting home when they visit the islands, this is prob- them from harm. Ironically, those who enjoy ably the best way of avoiding the temptation to visiting the islands can also be responsible for land your pet on the islands. spreading non-native, invasive species. You can help prevent the introduction and spread • Private Boaters and Rodents of these non-native plants and animals, which Private boaters should be particularly dili- is far more effective than costly eradication gent to ensure that no unwelcome animals are programs. living on their boats that could be accidentally transferred to an island. Rats and mice should • Clean and Inspect Clothing, Gear, be eliminated on all boats through the use of and Containers for Weeds and Other traps. Proper storage of food and monitor- “Hitchhikers” ing for signs of rodents will go a long ways Many weed seeds readily stick to cloth- to ensuring that your boat does not become ing and camping gear. These seeds can later the accidental conveyance for rodents to the Ken Owen, Channel Islands Restoration Ken Owen, Channel Islands Restoration Ken Owen, Channel Islands Restoration Ken Owen, Channel Islands Restoration fall off and germinate, establishing new weed Channel Islands. colonies. Weeds and other non-native organ- Horehound Yellow star-thistle Cocklebur Bur-clover isms can hitch a ride in camping equipment, This information was compiled in col- food containers and baggage. Visitors should laboration with Channel Islands Restoration, clean and inspect their footwear, clothing, a non-profit group established to restore and gear (especially shoe treads and Velcro) habitat in sensitive and unique natural areas for seeds and soil before boarding boats and in the park and adjacent mainland. Visit www. moving between campsites and islands. Socks channelislandsrestoration.com or www.nps. and cuffs of pants should be given particular gov/chis for more information. attention. Sleeping bags, sleeping pads, and tents should be cleaned and inspected for soil, invertebrates, and seeds before leaving the mainland. If you are already on the island, please use the nearby boot brushes—simply run each foot though the brush several times to remove weed seeds and other “stowaways” caught in shoe treads and laces. Kathy de Wet-Oleson Fennel Black rat Please help us prevent the spread of these non-native species throughout the islands. Island Views 11 Santa Cruz Island

According to legend, Santa Cruz Island was named for a priest’s staff accidentally left on the island during the Portola expedition of 1769. A Chumash Indian found Things To Do the cross-tipped stave and returned it to the priest. The Spaniards were so impressed that they • One-day trips and short or long called this island of friendly people “La Isla de Santa Cruz,” the Island of the Sacred Cross. overnight camping trips. (Only one- Today the protection and preservation of Santa Cruz Island is divided between The Nature day trips are offered to The Nature Conservancy and the National Park Service. The Nature Conservancy owns and manages the Conservancy property, including one western 76 percent of the island, while the eastern 24 percent is owned and managed by the of the best hikes in the park—along National Park Service. the coast from Prisoners Harbor to In its vastness and variety of flora, fauna, and geology, Santa Cruz Island resembles a minia- Pelican Bay.) ture California. At over 96 square miles in size and the largest island in California, Santa Cruz • Hiking options are unlimited with over contains two rugged mountain ranges; the highest peaks on the islands (rising above 2,000 feet); a 14,500 acres to explore on Eastern Tim Hauf large central valley/fault system; deep canyons with year-round springs and streams; and 77 miles Santa Cruz Island. of craggy coastline cliffs, giant sea caves, pristine tidepools, and expansive beaches. One of the Smugglers Cove, Santa Cruz Island • Great place for swimming, snorkeling, diving, and kayaking. Beach access largest and deepest sea caves in the world, Painted Cave, is found on the northwest coastline of is available at Scorpion Anchoage, Santa Cruz. Named because of its colorful rock types, lichens, and algae, Painted Cave is nearly a Smugglers Cove and Prisoners Harbor. quarter-mile long and 100 feet wide, with an entrance ceiling of 160 feet and a waterfall over this • Shade is available in the campground. entrance in the spring. • Birdwatchers will not want to miss the These varied landforms support more than 600 plant species in 10 different plant communi- endemic island scrub-jay—only found ties, from marshes and grasslands to chaparral and pine forests. There are 140 landbird and 11 on Santa Cruz Island and no other land mammal species; three amphibian and five reptile species; large colonies of nesting seabirds, place in the world. breeding seals, and sea lions; and other diverse marine animals and plants. Owing to millions of years of isolation, many distinctive plant and animals species have adapted to the island’s unique Refer to related articles for more information. environment, including the island scrub jay and eight plant species found only on Santa Cruz and nowhere else in the world.

Tim Hauf Island Facts The island is also rich in cultural history with over 9,000 years of Chumash Native American Indian habitation and over 150 years of European exploration and ranching. Santa Cruz Island, Scorpion Anchorage, Santa Cruz Island • Located in Santa Barbara County. known by the Chumash people as Limuw (translates to “in the sea”), was home to a dozen vil- • Santa Cruz is California’s largest lages that housed over 1,000 people. Many of these islanders mined extensive chert deposits island, almost three times the size of for tools and produced “shell-bead money,” used as a major trade item by tribes throughout Manhattan. Approximately 24 miles California. The largest village on the island as well as on the northern Channel Islands, Swaxil, long and up to 6 miles wide; 96 Hiking Information occupied the area of Scorpion Ranch at the time of Spanish contact (1542). Large plank canoes, square miles; 62,000 acres. • Average rainfall—20 inches. Tempera- called tomols, provided transportation between the islands and mainland. Remnants of their Destination Distance Difficulty Brief Description* ture range—20° F to 100° F. civilization can still be seen in thousands of shell middens on the island. (from Scorpion (miles, • Painted Cave is one of the largest Remnants of the ranching era also can be seen throughout the landscape of the island. Adobe beach) round-trip) known sea caves in the world. ranch houses, barns, blacksmith and shops, wineries, and a chapel all attest to the many • Diablo Peak (Devil’s Peak) is the tallest Historic Ranch 1/2 Easy View the historic Scorpion Ranch complex. uses of Santa Cruz in the 1800s and 1900s. At the Scorpion Ranch adobe, the massive oven that peak on the Channel Islands at Cavern Point 2 Moderate Magnificent coastal vistas and whale viewing. produced bread for the entire island is still intact. 2,450 ft. B. Moose Peterson • Santa Cruz has the greatest number Potato Harbor 4 Moderate Spectacular coastal views. No beach access. Island scrub-jay of plant and animal species of all the Channel Islands. Scorpion 4 (loop) Moderate to A scenic loop hike that includes steep canyon walls Canyon strenuous and a chance to see the unique island scrub-jay.

Smugglers Cove 7 Strenuous An all-day hike with beach access at Smugglers Cove.

F r o m S m u g g l e r s C o v e:

Smugglers 2 Moderate to Opportunities to view native island vegetation. Be Canyon strenuous prepared for uneven terrain and loose rock.

Yellowbanks 3 Moderate This hike leads to an overlook. No beach access.

San Pedro Point 4 Moderate For experienced, off-trail hikers.

Montañon Ridge 8 Strenuous For experienced, off-trail hikers. Great views.

F r o m P r i s o n e r s H a r b o r:

Prisoners Harbor 1/4 –1/2 Easy View the historic Prisoners Harbor area and search for the island scrub-jay.

Del Norte Camp 7 Strenuous Follow the rugged Del Norte trail east to the back- country camp.

Navy Road-Del 8.5 Strenuous Route includes the Navy Road and the Del Norte Trail. Norte Loop Good views.

Chinese Harbor 15.5 Strenuous A long hike that ends at the only beach accessible by land on the isthmus.

China Pines 18 Strenuous Explore the Santa Cruz Island pine grove.

Montañon 21 Strenuous For experienced, off-trail hikers. Must be able to read Ridge topographic maps.

Pelican Bay 4 Moderate to This trail may only be traveled by those who have strenuous a obtained a permit in advance from The Nature Conservancy or are accompanied by Island Packers (a boat concessionaire) staff.

· No hiking is allowed beyond the national park boundary onto The Nature Conservancy property. Private boaters, please see page 21 for landing information. The boundary is the property line (marked by a fenceline) between Prisoners Harbor and Valley Anchorage. · Before hiking, please refer to more detailed descriptions in the hiking guides available at island bulletin boards or mainland visitor center.

12 Island Views Restoring Santa Cruz Island

Close to the mainland yet worlds year program to restore Santa Cruz Island. San Miguel Island in apart, Santa Cruz Island is home to plants and 1930 when non-native This restoration program is part of the NPS animals overgrazed the animals that are found nowhere else on Earth. mission, as mandated by Congress, to preserve island, reducing it to “a Like the Galapagos Islands of South America, unimpaired the natural and cultural resources barren lump of sand.” (top). San Miguel in NPS NPS the Channel Islands exist in isolation, allowing and values of the National Park System for the Tim Hauf January 2000. Just 30 evolution to proceed independently, fostering enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this years after the removal of non-native animals, the development of 145 endemic or unique Non-native, feral pigs damage archeological sites, and future generations. native plant communites, and rare plants and vegetation has returned species. Santa Cruz Island is host to 70 of these The NPS, TNC, and natural and cultural spread non-native, invasive weeds throughout and started to stabilize the island (middle). San endemic species. Some, like the island scrub- resource experts identified non-native feral the island. They also attract new predators to the islands such as golden eagles. The eagles then prey Miguel’s native vegeta- jay and the Santa Cruz Island silver lotus, are pigs and non-native fennel (an invasive weed) on the endemic island fox, pushing it to the brink tion as it appears today above Cuyler Harbor found only on Santa Cruz Island. as the most significant disturbances to the of extinction. Tim Hauf (bottom). Unfortunately, this isolation has also made island’s sensitive resources. Both pigs and these species vulnerable to extinction. The fennel cause major impacts to native plant of sites, completely disturbing and desecrating melodic song of the Santa Barbara Island song communities, rare plant species, and archeo- these sacred sites and destroying their archeo- sparrow and the crimson flower of the Santa logical sites. logical value. Cruz Island monkey flower are no longer Pig rooting causes massive destruction of In addition, feral pigs played a pivotal role heard or seen within the park. The destruction native species, resulting in bare ground that is in the catastrophic decline of island foxes. of these species’ habitats by non-native, exotic

easily eroded and colonized by invasive weeds, Piglets provided a year-round food source for Brad Sillasen plants and animals has caused their extinction especially fennel. This activity was a factor in golden eagles, allowing these former rare or along with eight other rare and unique island the decline of nine island plant species listed occasional visitors to expand their range and species. Once found only on the Channel as threatened or endangered by the U.S. Fish establish resident populations on the island Wetland Restoration Refer to related articles for more information. Islands, they have been lost forever. and Wildlife Service. and prey on island foxes. Golden eagle preda- Prisoners Harbor on Santa Cruz Island In order to save 10 other island species, Pig rooting also damaged a large number tion placed the fox on the brink of extinction is the principal gateway to the largest of including the island fox, from the brink of of archeological sites on the island that are on Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel the Channel Islands. The harbor sits at the mouth of Cañada del Puerto, an ephemeral extinction as well as protect 3,000 internation- associated with the Chumash Native Amercian Islands. creek that drains 13 square miles of the ally significant archeological sites, the National people who occupied the island from at least The consensus among numerous experts island’s interior, including the island’s Cen- Park Service (NPS) and The Nature Conser- 9,000 years ago until the early 1800s. Rooting was that the eradication of feral pigs was the tral Valley. Historically, the Prisoners area vancy (TNC) have embarked upon a multi- to a depth of three feet was noted in a number most important action that could be taken to was one of the largest backbarrier coastal protect and restore Santa Cruz Island. The wetlands on the Channel Islands. This rare Hiking Information NPS has had tremendous success restoring habitat, comprised of a freshwater stream, other islands in the park through the removal coastal lagoon/wetland, and riparian Destination Distance Difficulty Brief Description* of non-native animals. The eradication of woodland, provided respite from the long (from Scorpion (miles, European rabbits from Santa Barbara Island dry summers for a diverse array of species beach) round-trip) and sheep and burros from San Miguel Island including the island fox and bald eagle. The Historic Ranch 1/2 Easy View the historic Scorpion Ranch complex. has resulted in tremendous natural recovery. wetland most likely served as a resting and feeding stop for migratory birds traveling Feral pigs have also been eradicated from Cavern Point 2 Moderate Magnificent coastal vistas and whale viewing. the Pacific flyway, as well as nesting and Santa Rosa Island in a similar program. Pig foraging habitat for resident waterfowl. Potato Harbor 4 Moderate Spectacular coastal views. No beach access. eradication began on Santa Cruz in 2005 and Prisoners Harbor also has an extensive was completed in 2007. Scorpion 4 (loop) Moderate to A scenic loop hike that includes steep canyon walls legacy of human occupation. Chumash Canyon strenuous and a chance to see the unique island scrub-jay. Other management actions to initiate re- people occupied a village at the harbor for covery of the island ecosystem have also been at least 5,000 years. Nineteenth- and twen- Smugglers Cove 7 Strenuous An all-day hike with beach access at Smugglers Cove. implemented. Golden eagles have been cap- tieth-century landowners constructed a pier, F r o m S m u g g l e r s C o v e: tured and relocated to northeast California. A buildings, and other structures at Prisoners captive breeding program for island foxes was Harbor. To facilitate the island ranching Smugglers 2 Moderate to Opportunities to view native island vegetation. Be established as insurance against losses due to operations and protect their investments Canyon strenuous prepared for uneven terrain and loose rock. golden eagles. This program has been so suc- at the harbor, ranchers channelized the creek and filled in the adjacent wetland Yellowbanks 3 Moderate This hike leads to an overlook. No beach access. cessful in reestablishing a wild population that with gravels from the surrounding hills the program will be shut down after releases San Pedro Point 4 Moderate For experienced, off-trail hikers. and creekbed. This effectively eliminated in summer 2007. Monitoring of the island fox the ecological value of the coastal wetland Montañon Ridge 8 Strenuous For experienced, off-trail hikers. Great views. population will continue. system, its floodplain functions, and much Also, native bald eagles have been rein- F r o m P r i s o n e r s H a r b o r: of its biological diversity. troduced. This predator disappeared in the The National Park Service is explor- Prisoners Harbor 1/4 –1/2 Easy View the historic Prisoners Harbor area and search for 1960s due to DDT poisoning. Bald eagles eat ing options for protecting and enhancing the island scrub-jay. fish, seabirds and carrion, not live foxes, and resources at Prisoners Harbor. National Park Del Norte Camp 7 Strenuous Follow the rugged Del Norte trail east to the back- are very territorial. It is expected that once policy directives guide park staff to restore country camp. they mature, they will establish territories and wetlands where feasible. The following drive off any newly arriving golden eagles. In actions are being considered at Prisoners Navy Road-Del 8.5 Strenuous Route includes the Navy Road and the Del Norte Trail. Harbor: 1) reestablish a habitat that is rare 2006 this program paid off. For the first time in Norte Loop Good views. both in California and on the Channel more than 50 years, a bald eagle chick hatched Islands; 2) reestablish wetland and flood- unaided by humans on the Channel Islands. Chinese Harbor 15.5 Strenuous A long hike that ends at the only beach accessible by plain functions; 3) restore natural biological land on the isthmus. This multi-year program to remove golden diversity of the Prisoners Harbor area; 4) eagles, reintroduce bald eagles, breed island China Pines 18 Strenuous Explore the Santa Cruz Island pine grove. provide a more productive habitat for plants foxes, eradicate pigs, and control fennel has and wildlife; and 5) provide an enhanced Montañon 21 Strenuous For experienced, off-trail hikers. Must be able to read helped restore Santa Cruz Island to a naturally experience for visitors. Ridge topographic maps. functioning ecosystem, providing one of the Concurrently, this restoration will: 1) Pelican Bay 4 Moderate to This trail may only be traveled by those who have last opportunities to experience the nation- protect the archeological village site from strenuous a obtained a permit in advance from The Nature ally significant natural and cultural heritage of erosion; 2) provide better protection to the Conservancy or are accompanied by Island Packers (a coastal southern California. historic warehouse building from flooding; boat concessionaire) staff. 3) interpret the cultural and natural history For further information on the “Santa Cruz of the Prisoners Harbor area; and 4) main- Island Primary Restoration Plan,” please con- · No hiking is allowed beyond the national park boundary onto The Nature Conservancy property. Private tain vehicle access to the pier. boaters, please see page 21 for landing information. The boundary is the property line (marked by a tact the park headquarters or visit Please visit www.nps.gov/chis for more fenceline) between Prisoners Harbor and Valley Anchorage. www.nps.gov.chis. · Before hiking, please refer to more detailed descriptions in the hiking guides available at island information and to comment on this bulletin boards or mainland visitor center. project.

Island Views 13 Michumash: The Island Chumash

the tomol ranged from eight to 30 feet in length Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, and held three to 10 people. and other local areas to learn more about the The tomol was constructed of a single piece Chumash and other Native American cultures. of wood for the floor, with three or four rows For more information please write or call: of planks. Milkweed, yucca, dogbane, or sinew from deer were used as cordage to ie the tomol Channel Islands National Park together. Yop, a glue consisting of a mixture of 1901 Spinnaker Drive Ventura, California 93001 Robert Schwemmer, CINMS pine pitch and asphaltum was used to seal the (805)658-5730 space between boards. Sharkskin was used for sanding, red ochre for staining, and abalone Santa Monica Mountains for inlay and embellishment. National Recreation Area The use of the tomol allowed for an elabo- 401 West Hillcrest Drive Thousand Oaks, California 91360-4223 rate trade network between the islands and (805)370-2300 mainland, between natives and non-natives, 2004 Chumash Maritime Assocation channel crossing to Santa Cruz Island and amongst the island communities them- Chumash Indian Tribal Elders Council selves. P.O. Box 517 Today the Chumash Maritime Association, Santa Ynez, California 93460 Traditionally the Chumash people this started a fire.A fter this, people kept fires (805)688-8446 lived in an area extending from San Luis burning so that they could keep warm, and so in partnership with Channel Islands Obispo to Malibu, including the four North- they could cook their food. National Marine Sanctuary and Channel Is- Candelaria American Indian Council ern Channel Islands. Today, with the exception In those days, the Condor was a white bird. lands National Park, continues the tradition of 1650 Palma Dr. Ventura, California 93003 of the islands, Chumash people live in these But the Condor was very curious about the the tomol. In September 2001 paddlers rowed (805)650-8352 territories and areas far beyond. Approxi- fire he saw burning in the Chumash village. the tomol ‘Elye’wun (swordfish) across the mately 148 village sites have been identified, He wanted to find out what it was. So he flew Santa Barbara Channel, completing the first Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History including eleven on Santa Cruz Island, eight very low over the fire to get a better look.B ut channel crossing in more than 125 years. 2559 Puesta del Sol Road on Santa Rosa Island, and two on San Miguel he flew too close; he got his feathers scorched Missionization: The Spanish were the Santa Barbara, California 93105 (805)682-4711 Island. Due to the lack of a consistent water and they turned black. So now the Condor is a first Europeans to visit the Chumash in 1542. Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo was impressed by the source, Anacapa and Santa Barbara Islands black bird, with just a little white left under the Friends of Satwiwa was likely inhabited on a seasonal basis. A wings where they did not get burned. friendliness of the Chumash people who he 4126 Potrero Road true maritime culture, the Chumash hunted After Alchupo’osh gave them fire, the Chu- encountered. However, along with European Newbury Park, California 91320 and gathered natural resources from both the mash people lived more comfortably. More contact came European diseases and conflict. (805)499-2837 ocean and the coastal mountains to maintain people were born each year, and their villages Even relatively minor illnesses, such as the a highly developed way of life. Today we have got bigger and bigger. Limuw was getting common cold, were devastating to the previ- evidence of more than 13,000 years of Native crowded. And the noise people made was ously unexposed people of North America, occupation of the islands, highlighted by the starting to annoy Hutash. It kept her awake at and many Chumash people succumbed to Tomol Crossings Continue discovery of Arlington Springs Man. Among night. So, finally, she decided that some of the disease. the oldest dated human remains in North Chumash people had to move off the island. In an attempt to convert the native popu- Although the historic Brotherhood of the America, radio-carbon dating indicates he They would have to go to the mainland, where lation to Christianity and secure the area Tomol disbanded in 1834, a contemporary lived approximately 13,000 years ago. This there weren’t any people living in those days. for Spain against the Russian and Aleut fur group built Helek, which means peregrine rich, continuing history is a testament to the But how were the people going to get across traders, the Chumash people were removed falcon, in 1976 based on ethnographic and historic accounts of tomol construction. It Chumash people and their Island home. the water to the mainland? Finally, Hutash had from their traditional lands. The Mission Era was the firsttomol built in 142 years. and What’s in a Name: Michumash is the word the idea of making a bridge out of a wishtoyo (1772-1822) was marked by the construction the modern paddlers travelled from San from which the name Chumash is derived. (rainbow).She made a very long, very high of five Spanish missions in Chumash territory Miguel Island to Santa Rosa Island and and continued outbreaks of disease, further Roughly translated, Michumash means “mak- rainbow which stretched from the tallest finally to Santa Cruz Island. decimating the population. ers of shell bead money,” and is the term mountain on Limuw all the way to Tzchimoos, Twenty years later, the Chumash Mari- The mission system depended on the use mainland Chumash used to refer to those the tall mountain near Mishopshno (Carpin- time Association completed a 26-foot-long inhabiting the islands. teria). of native labor to propel industry and the tomol which they named ‘Elye’wun (pro- ‘Achum, or shell bead money was “minted” Hutash told the people to go across the economy. The social organization of Chu- nounced “El-E-ah-woon”), the Chumash by the island Chumash using small discs rainbow bridge and fill the whole world with mash society was restructured, leading to the word for swordfish. shaped from olivella shell and drills manufac- people. So the Chumash people started to go erosion of previous power bases and further On September 8, 2001, ‘Elye’wun made tured from Santa Cruz Island chert. The shell across the bridge. Some of them got across assimilation. the historic crossing from the mainland to Santa Cruz Island. Over 150 Chumash fami- bead money was exchanged with mainland safely, but some people made the mistake of When California became part of Mexico, lies and friends gathered to greet the tomol villages for resources and manufactured goods looking down. It was a long way down to the the government secularized the missions and and paddlers on the beaches of Santa Cruz. that were otherwise unavailable on the islands. water, and the fog was swirling around. They the Chumash sank into the depths of poverty. Three years later, on September 11, By the time of the California gold rush, the Over time, many Chumash place names became so dizzy that some of them fell off the 2004, ‘Elye’wun again crossed the Chan- Chumash had become marginalized, and little have been altered to reflect the uses or per- rainbow bridge, down through the fog, into nel to Santa Cruz Island, this time greeted was done to understand or help the remaining ceptions of various other cultures. Anacapa the ocean. Hutash felt very bad about this, by more than 200 Chumash and American Island, however, retains a name closest to the because she told them to cross the bridge. population. Indians at the historic Chumash village of Chumash Anyapakh, meaning “mirage.” She did not want them to drown. So, to save i sari wa; It Will Continue Indefinitely: Swaxil, now known as Scorpion Valley. The Santa Cruz Island, known by the Chumash them, she turned them into dolphins. Now the Today Chumash community members con- 21-mile trip took over ten hours. A crew of people as Limuw, translates to “in the sea,” Chumash call the dolphins their brothers and tinue to move forward in their efforts to revive Chumash youth aged 14 to 22 joined the while Santa Rosa Island, or Wi’ma, means sisters. what was becoming a forgotten way of life. paddlers, a significant accomplishment for the next generation of Chumash leaders. “redwood driftwood.” Though no transla- The Tomol: Chumash society featured an Much has been lost, but Chumash community Additional tomol crossings took place in tion to modern English is known, San Miguel upper class of chiefs, shaman, boat builders members take pride in their heritage and their September 2005, August 2006, and August Island was refered to as Tuqan. and artisans; a middle class of workers, fisher- culture. 2007. Members of the Chumash commu- With a current population nearly 5,000 Limuw—A Story of Place: Hutash, the men, and hunters; and a lower class of the nity continue to celebrate their heritage and strong, some Chumash people can their Earth Mother, created the first Chumash poor and outcast. culture through this event. ancestors to the five islands that now con- people on the island of Limuw, now known as The brotherhood of the tomol, an elite Centuries ago, the tomol was used to Santa Cruz. They were made from the seeds of group of boat builders in the upper echelons stitute Channel Islands National Park. The connect different island Chumash groups a Magic Plant. of Chumash society, constructed the plank Chumash reservation in Santa Ynez represents with each other and the mainland. Today, it Hutash was married to the Alchupo’osh, canoe, or tomol, which is the oldest example the only federally recognized band, though it is links past generations of Chumash with the Sky Snake, the Milky Way, who could make of ocean watercraft in North America. important to note that several other Chumash present-day Chumash community. lightning bolts with his tongue. One day, Preferably constructed of redwood, which groups exist. he decided to make a gift to the Chumash drifted down from northern California and The National Park Service invites you to people. He sent down a bolt of lightning, and was collected on Wi’ma (Santa Rosa Island), visit Channel Islands National Park, Santa 14 Island Views Eagle (continued from page 1) in partnership with the IWS and the Ventura tion and archival footage can be found at tional radio transmitter, and a satellite GPS The goal of the program is to eventually County Office of Education, established a we- www.nps.gov/chis. transmitter. These have provided essential establish bald eagle nests on all five islands. bcam in 2006 that brought live, streaming im- Bald eagles were once a very important data on mortality and movements of the Many of the birds introduced into the eco- ages of the chick and its parents into schools component of the Channel Islands’ ecosys- birds following fledging and departure from system are still too young to reproduce. In the and homes of people around the world. tem. However, human harassment, collection release sites. Additionally, movement-acti- next several years, many of these birds will The Channel Islands EagleCAM and associ- of eggs, and, ultimately, the pesticide DDT vated cameras mounted at bait stations help to reach maturity and more nesting territories ated discussion board, which can be found at resulted in the complete extirpation of the detect unmarked birds and birds whose radio will likely be established. The signs are good, http://chil.vcoe.org/eagle_cam.htm, developed species from the islands. Southern California, transmitters are no longer active. and the bald eagle may be back to stay on the a devoted following. The discussion board once the center for manufacture of DDT, trails Reestablishing bald eagles has been part Channel Islands. proved to be a fun and easy way to find play- the rest of the United States in the recovery of a larger effort to restore and protect the by-play descriptions of the nest action, ex- of bald eagles because high levels of DDT special ecosystem of the Channel Islands. In plore updates from biologists in the field, and continue to remain in the surrounding marine recent years, the park and partners like The get to know other eagle enthusiasts around the ecosystem. A successful federal and state Nature Conservancy, which co-owns Santa world. The projects was so engaging that in lawsuit against manufacturers and distributors Cruz Island with the NPS, have eliminated July 2006 when the first eagle chick fledged at of DDT provided the funds to begin the bald nonnative animals, such as feral pigs, sheep, three months of age, EagleCAM devotees held eagle restoration program at Channel Islands rats, and cattle. Species once threatened with a world-wide virtual toast. National Park in 2002. extinction, like the island foxes, are moving Because of the success of the webcam, it DDT severely reduced not only bald eagle toward recovery. The story of the restoration was reestablished on Santa Cruz Island to numbers, but also peregrine falcons, Califor- of the Channel Islands is featured in a recent watch nesting activity in 2007. Volunteer nia brown pelicans, and other seabirds. Bald edition of The Nature Conservancy magazine. observers took shifts throughout the day eagles, feeding higher on the food chain, have Restoring a healthy bald eagle population is a NPS documenting the behavior of the birds. The been the slowest to recover. All of the bald significant piece in bringing back the natural solar-powered camera ran daily between dawn eagle chicks introduced through this program productivity and diversity of the Channel Two juvenile bald eagles exercise their wings and think about taking their first flight from one of and dusk. Additional park webcam informa- are outfitted with blue wing tags, a conven- Islands. two hack towers on Santa Cruz Island.

History and Culture of the Channel Islands

Surfacing over the horizon from the depths of the Pacific Ocean, the coastal moun- Diversity of People and Culture tains of California’s Channel Islands offer an For over thirteen thousand years, the extraordinary gateway to the past, spanning northern Channel Islands have hosted a di- more than 13,000 years of human history. verse range of peoples and cultures.The large The Channel Islands have attracted many number and undisturbed condition of archeo- explorers, scientists, and historians during the logical sites on the islands are shedding light past few centuries. Today, island visitors can on coastal migration patterns of the earliest explore the world of the native Chumash, walk Americans and their subsistence in the marine the shores where European explorers landed, environment. Human remains discovered discover new tales from California’s ranching in 1959 at Arlington Springs on Santa Rosa history, and witness the remains of off-shore Island have been dated to more than 13,000 shipwrecks. years of age, among the oldest dated human The northern Channel Islands were home remains in North America. New information about the Island to many native Chumash communities who are Chumash, the native population that inhab- believed to have inhabited the islands for thou- ited these islands for thousands of years, con- sands of years. When Europeans first reached tinues to fascinate historians and visitors alike. the islands in the 16th century, they discovered These native people relied on the sea for a rich culture dependent upon the resources much of their sustenance and manufactured of the land and the sea for sustenance and tools and trade items from shells and stones. survival. By the nineteenth century, the islands The Chumash were able to travel between were fulfilling different purposes: vast sheep the islands and the mainland in plank canoes, and cattle ranches occupied Santa Cruz, Santa called tomols, which were constructed out Rosa, and San Miguel islands and the chan- of redwood trees that had drifted down the coast. nel waters were aggressively harvested for fish William Dewey In 1542 explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo and marine mammals. The remains of ancient reached San Miguel Island while voyaging The Scorpion Ranch House was built between 1886 and‑ 1887 to house workers for the Santa Cruz Island Chumash villages are intermingled with along the American coast seeking new lands Company’s ranching operation. historic ranch complexes and later military for conquest and development. For two the 19th and 20th centuries. Taking advantage 1948 until it transferred management to the structures, testifying to the diverse heritage of hundred years, explorers and traders visited of the expansive fields and altering much of the National Park Service (NPS) in 1967. The Navy human experience on these offshore islands. the islands where they hunted otters, seals, natural environment, ranchers and vaqueros, continues to maintain a small post on Santa Each of the five Channel Islands has a and sea lions for their pelts and oil, greatly or cowboys, built successful sheep and cattle Cruz Island. unique history. Channel Islands National Park increasing the exploitation of the marine ranches. Many historic ranch buildings remain Today NPS personnel and park visitors form invites you to learn more about the people, resources and introducing diseases that deci- on Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa Islands today. the primary population of the five northern places, and stories associated with each of mated the native populations. The U.S. Army, Navy, Air Force, and Coast islands. Established as a national monument these islands and to experience the fascinating Claimed for Spain by the early explorers, Guard all established posts on the northern in 1938, Anacapa and Santa Barbara Islands heritage of coastal southern California! the islands fell under Mexican rule in 1821. Channel Islands during the 20th century. Light were the first two islands under NPS manage- Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa were awarded as ment. In 1980 legislation creating Channel Please visiit www.nps.gov/chis for more towers were constructed on Anacapa and Santa Mexican land grants with the intent of raising Barbara Islands in the 1910s, and a full light Islands National Park added the three remain- information on the history and culture of livestock. Initial ventures into sheep and cattle station built on East Anacapa Island in 1932, ing northern Channel Islands. Today the NPS Channel Islands National Park. ranching began on these islands in the 1830s. was run by the Coast Guard into the 1960s. protects and preserves the historic resources With California statehood in1850, the islands Coastal defense build-up led to the establish- associated with the various historic inhabit- became part of the United States. Each of the ment of an Army base in 1943 and an Air ants of the islands to help tell their stories to five northern Channel Islands was developed Force Base in 1950, both on Santa Rosa Island. the public. for livestock ranching during some period of The Navy managed San Miguel Island from Island Views 15 Santa Rosa Island

Santa Rosa Island illustrates the processes of a national Remains of an ancient endemic species, the pygmy mammoth, have park in development. Though the island was included as part of Chan- been uncovered on Santa Rosa, along with Santa Cruz and San Miguel Things To Do nel Islands National Park upon the park’s inception on March 5, 1980, it Islands. These miniature mammoths, only four to six feet tall, once • One-day trips, multi-day boat trips and wasn’t until December 1986 that the island came under the ownership roamed island grasslands and forests during the Pleistocene. The fossil overnight camping trips (minimum stay of the National Park Service. Although the former owners run a private skeleton discovered on Santa Rosa Island in 1994 is the most complete is generally 3 days—Friday to Sunday). hunting operation a few months of the year for introduced deer and elk specimen ever found. • Be prepared for adverse weather. under a special use permit, visitation is welcome throughout the year. Along with extensive paleontological resources, Santa Rosa Island • Backcountry beach camping is available Located 40 nautical miles from the Channel Islands National Park has rich archeological resources. Home to the Island Chumash until during certain times of year. visitor center in Ventura, Santa Rosa is the second largest island in Cali- approximately 1820, Wima (as the Chumash refer to the island) con- • Hiking options are unlimited with over fornia at approximately 53,000 acres in size. The island’s relatively low tains thousands of significant and federally protected archeological 54,000 acres of rugged peaks, magnifi- profile is broken by a high, central mountain range, rising 1,589 feet at sites. Archeological investigations on the island have enabled archeolo- cent canyons, and beautiful beaches. its highest point. Its coastal areas are variable, ranging from broad sandy gists to construct a more complete picture of Chumash life on the is- • Due to high incidence of strong winds, beaches gently sloping toward a dynamic ocean to sheer cliffs plunging lands. Radiocarbon dating on some of these sites indicates that humans swimming, snorkeling, diving, and toward the turmoil of a sea intent on changing the contour of the land. have been using the island for more than 13,000 years. kayaking are limited and recommended for the experienced visitor only. As on its larger neighbor, Santa Cruz Island, these varied landforms Others have come to the island during more recent centuries to • Despite the wind, Santa Rosa offers support a diverse array of plant and animal species. About 500 plant exploit its rich resources, sometimes making it their home. In addition exceptional beach walking on white species can be found within nine plant communities, including six to the native Chumash, European explorers, Aleut sea otter hunters, sand beaches. Access to one of the plant species which are found only on Santa Rosa and nowhere else in Chinese abalone fishermen, Spanish missionaries, Mexican andA meri- best beaches, Water Canyon Beach, is the world. One of these species, the Santa Rosa Island subspecies of can ranchers, and the U.S. military all have left their mark on the Santa just over a mile from the pier in Bechers Torrey pine, is considered one of the rarest pines in the world—the last Rosa landscape. Visitors can see relics of these occupations in remnants Bay and just down canyon from the enduring members of a once widespread Pleistocene forest. A rem- of fishing camps, water troughs and fence lines, the pier where cattle campground. nant, mainland subspecies of Torrey pine also can be found near La were loaded and unloaded since 1901, buildings and equipment of the Jolla, California, at Torrey Pines State Reserve. Santa Rosa Island also historic Vail and Vickers ranch at Bechers Bay, remains of the military Refer to related articles for more information. hosts over 100 landbird and three land mammal species (including the installations, and a great diversity of sites to be discovered all around island’s largest native mammal, the endemic island fox); two amphibian the island. Island Facts and three reptile species; and colonies of seabirds, seals, and sea lions. • Located in Santa Barbara County. Hiking Information • Approximately 15 miles wide by 10 miles long; 84 square miles; 53,000 Destination Distance Difficulty Description acres. (from pier) (miles, round-trip) • Santa Rosa Island is 26.5 miles from the Water Canyon beach 2 Easy If the wind is not too strong, this is a wonderful 2-mile-long white sand beach to explore. nearest mainland, three miles east of San Miguel Island, and six miles west of East Point 12 Strenuous A beautiful coastal hike with opportunities to explore the Torrey pines and unrestricted beaches. Santa Cruz Island. • Average rainfall is 15 inches per year. Lobo Canyon 13 Strenuous Spectacular canyon with wind and water sculpted sandstone cliffs, a stream and native plants. • Five endemic plant species occur only Torrey Pines 5 Moderate View the Torrey pines and get great views from the top of the grove. on Santa Rosa Island. • Santa Rosa Island is home to only 3 na- Black Mountain 8 Strenuous Great views (weather permitting) of Santa Rosa, San Miguel, Santa Cruz and the mainland. tive terrestrial mammals—the island fox, · Please respect the privacy of the ranching operation by following the signed path from the pier through the ranch area. spotted skunk, and deer mouse. They · Each year for a few months, Vail & Vickers operates a private hunt for stocked deer and elk. During these hunting periods, hiking may be restricted in certain areas. are all endemic to the Channel Islands. Please check with the ranger before hiking and be aware of the hunting operation. • Reptiles and amphibians include the gopher snake, alligator lizard, western fence lizard, Pacific tree frog, and slen- der salamander. Tim Hauf

Torrey pines, Bechers Bay Tim Hauf

Historic barns (1870s), Santa Rosa Island Bill Faulkner

16 Island Views 1994 excavation of pygmy mammoth Fox Streams Recover on Santa Rosa Island (continued from page 1) In 1995 the state of California and loss of associated wetland habitat. with the landscape setting. Herbaceous ripar- remaining in the wild. The following year, the directed Channel Islands National Park to Three of these sections studied were inac- ian-wetland vegetation that was nonexistent in remaining island foxes on Santa Rosa—15 correct water quality problems on Santa Rosa cessible to cattle and served as “reference 1995 now covers more than 90 percent of the animals—were brought into captivity. In 2002 Island, presumably caused by year-round areas,” while the other seven were grazed area along most of these areas. foxes on Santa Cruz were brought into captiv- grazing of approximately 5,000 cattle; 1,500 year-round by cattle. The study found that of The remarkable improvement in Santa ity when biologists discovered that the fox deer; and 800 elk. Later that year, an interdis- the seven stream sections that were subject to Rosa Island’s riparian conditions since 1995 population had declined by over 90 percent ciplinary team from the National Park Service year-round cattle grazing, six were “nonfunc- demonstrates the ability of these systems to and fewer than 100 foxes existed on the island. (NPS), the U.S. Forest Service, and the Bureau tional” and one was rated “functional at risk.” restore themselves once the major stressor— After eight years of captive breeding on of Land Management (BLM) assessed the Of the three reference areas, two were in year-round cattle grazing—was removed. The Santa Rosa, seven years on San Miguel, and condition of 10 stream sections on the island. “proper functioning condition” and one was transition from nonfunctional to properly five years on Santa Cruz, captive foxes had The team used the BLM’s “Process for As- rated “functional at risk.” In the nonfunctional functioning riparian systems became possible produced 53 pups on San Miguel , 77 on sessing Proper Functioning Condition” meth- systems, an oversupply of sediment from when vegetation recovery in the watersheds Santa Rosa, and 85 pups on Santa Cruz. Initial od for the assessment. This rapid assessment upland and channel sources had exceeded led to decreased runoff and sediment delivery releases back to the wild began in 2003 on method evaluates conditions according to 17 the streams’ transport capabilities, resulting to the island’s stream systems and when Santa Rosa, 2004 on San Miguel, and 2003 on hydrology, vegetation, and stream geomor- in mostly braided channel forms, high lateral appropriate riparian-wetland vegetation be- Santa Cruz. Since that time 50 foxes have been phology factors. Assessment ratings include instability, and other characteristics that were came established. released on Santa Rosa, 48 on San Miguel, and “proper functioning condition,” “functional at out of balance with the landscape setting. In However, the expected woody riparian 91 on Santa Cruz. risk,” and “nonfunctional.” addition, riparian-wetland vegetation was components (willows and cottonwoods) have Since releases began, survival and repro- The proper functioning condition of a almost completely absent, exposing banks to not reestablished. Although willows and cot- duction have been higher for San Miguel and riparian area refers to the stability of the physi- excessive erosion in each flood event. tonwoods may not be absolutely necessary Santa Cruz foxes. On San Miguel, annual cal system, which in turn is dictated by the By 1998 all 5,000 cattle were removed from for bank and floodplain stabilization in these survival was 92% as of mid-2007, and reintro- interaction of geology, soil, water, and vegeta- the island, and the nonnative deer population areas, they would enhance such stability, help duced foxes produced 32 pups in spring 2006. tion. A riparian system in proper functioning was substantially reduced. In 2004 the NPS dissipate flood energy, and provide valuable On Santa Cruz, annual survival was 71% as of condition is in dynamic equilibrium with its assembled a comparable team to reassess the wildlife habitat that likely occurred histori- mid-2007, and reintroduced foxes produced streamflow forces and channel processes. The same stream sections that were evaluated in cally in the canyons. The absence of willow 66 pups in spring 2007. Annual survival was system adjusts to handle larger runoff events 1995, using the same assessment method, in and cottonwood establishment may be due to 73% for Santa Rosa foxes, and released foxes with limited change in channel characteristics order to evaluate riparian system response to a lack of nearby seed sources or browsing of produced 15 pups on that island in 2006. The and associated riparian-wetland plant com- removal of cattle and deer. seedlings by nonnative deer or elk remaining current wild population estimate is over 100 munities. Because of this stability, properly The post-cattle grazing assessment team on the island. Interventions, such as planting foxes on San Miguel, over 300 on Santa Cruz, functioning riparian areas can maintain water found that all six areas that were rated non- and protecting willows and cottonwoods, may and over 50 on Santa Rosa. quality, fish and wildlife habitat, and other functional in 1995 had regained proper func- be necessary to put the recovering riparian The high fox survival on San Miguel and important ecosystem functions even after large tioning condition. Sediment-choked, braided systems on a trajectory toward desired vegeta- Santa Cruz coupled with the high reproduc- storms. In contrast, nonfunctional systems in channels evident in 1995 had recovered to tive conditions. tive success—much higher than in captiv- the same storms might exhibit excessive ero- narrower, deeper, meandering channels with ity—results in population recovery being sion and sediment loading, loss of fish habitat, well-developed floodplains that are in balance accomplished, at this point, by the recovering wild population, rather than by further captive breeding and release. Therefore, the remaining captive foxes on San Miguel and Santa Cruz were released in fall 2007, and captive breed- ing ceased. On Santa Rosa, captive breeding will continue for several more years, until wild fox survival increases and reproductive suc- cess in the wild is greater than in captivity. The high survival of released foxes is due primarily to the successful live-capture 1995 1995 1995 and removal of golden eagles. Predation by golden eagles was the cause of the massive fox declines in the 1990s, and until recently remained the primary mortality factor for released and wild island foxes in the northern Channel Islands. Raptor biologists from the Santa Cruz Predatory Bird Research Group began live-capturing golden eagles on the Channel Islands in 1999 and then releasing them in northeastern California. Since that time a total of 44 golden eagles have been 2004 2007 2007 relocated to the mainland. As of 2007 only one Arlington Canyon changed from an unvegetated, In 1995 Old Ranch Canyon provided an especially There was substantial improvement between 1995 braided stream channel considered nonfunctional good example of a riparian system that was non- and 2007 in this area of Lobo Canyon. Although the eagle was thought to remain, and 2007 marked (upper photo) to one with appropriate riparian-wet- functional. The 2007 photo shows the dramatic canyon was considered to be in proper functioning the first year in more than a decade that golden land vegetation that is functioning properly (lower recovery of channel morphology and vegetation condition in 1995, there were significant changes photo). In 1995 excess sediment derived from the (both riparian-wetland and upland) since removal following removal of cattle due to the strong eagles did not attempt to breed on the north- overgrazed watershed and unvegetated stream of cattle. Herbaceous wetland species now provide recruitment and spread of herbaceous and woody ern Channel Islands. banks filled the channel and degraded water quality. nearly 100 percent cover in the channel, but the riparian-wetland vegetation. There is now a diverse Two other ecosystem-level changes will help By 2004 sediment deposits had created a properly expected willow and cottonwood plants are almost native community covering nearly 100 percent of functioning floodplain, and the narrower, meander- completely absent. The 2004 team found clear evi- the potential riparian-wetland zone. Arroyo willow, insure that golden eagles do not gain a toehold ing channel showed improved water quality and dence of browsing on the few small willow plants absent in 1995, is now well-established. on the northern Channel Islands in the future. aquatic habitat characteristics. encountered, indicating that any seedlings that do get established may soon be eaten by the remaining The recent removal of feral pigs from Santa introduced deer and elk. Cruz Island by The Nature Conservancy and Removal of Non-Native Mammals and disturbance typical of islands. result of the removals. However, some areas, the National Park Service removes a major Islands are particularly vulnerable to the Since the 1970s, the National Park Service such as highly eroded habitats, have been very prey base for golden eagles. Moreover, the impacts of non-native animals. Fortunately, it is and our partners have eliminated most of the slow to change. Efforts will continue to remove successful reintroduction of bald eagles to the often feasible to eliminate non-native animals introduced non-native mammals. Three of the impacts that could result in the impairment of islands adds back the last important missing from islands and initiate ecological recovery. park islands—Santa Barbara, Anacapa, and park resources. element of the island ecosystem, with indirect The five islands within the park provide habitat Santa Cruz—are free of non-native mammals. Removing non-natives may also further con- benefits to island foxes: golden eagle use of the for many endemic species and critical habitat Deer and elk remain on Santa Rosa Island, and trol invasive plants that rely on exposed soils islands is likely to be discouraged by territorial for animals and plants that depend on the black rats remain on San Miguel Island. There and poor vegetative cover. bald eagles. naturally lower levels of predation, herbivory, has been substantial ecological recovery as a Island Views 17 San Miguel Island

Wind and weather constantly sweep across the North Pacific to batter the shores of the westernmost of all the islands, San Things To Do Miguel. This extreme weather creates a harsh but profoundly beautiful environment. The 9,500-acre island is primarily a plateau about 500 feet • One-day trips, long overnight camping in elevation, but two 800-foot rounded hills emerge from its wild, wind- trips (minimum stay is generally three swept landscape. Although lush native vegetation covers this landscape days—Friday to Sunday), and multi-day boat trips. today, a century’s worth of sheep ranching and overgrazing caused • Be prepared for adverse weather.

scientists in 1875 to describe the island as “a barren lump of sand.” Brad Sillasen • Hiking options are limited. Visitors may With the grazing animals removed, vegetative recovery is in progress. Spring flowers, Cuyler Harbor, San Miguel Island explore a small area on their own— Giant coreopsis, dudleya, locoweed, lupine, buckwheat, coastal sage- including the 2-mile-long Cuyler Har- brush, and poppies are all recolonizing the island to their former extent, lark, rock wren, and song sparrow, an endemic subspecies. Peregrine bor beach and the 1-mile trail to the returning San Miguel to its more natural state. falcons have recently been restored to the island and are nesting suc- ranger station. To see other parts of Also making a comeback, after years of hunting, are the thousands cessfully once again after years of decimation by the pesticide DDT. the island you must go with a ranger. of pinnipeds (seals and sea lions) that breed, pup, and haul out on the In addition to the variety of natural resources, San Miguel hosts an Rangers are generally available to island’s 27 miles of isolated coastline. Hikers who make the all-day, array of cultural resources as well. The Chumash Indians lived on San lead hikes, but check with the park or ranger-guided, 16-mile round-trip hike across the island to Point Ben- Miguel almost continuously for over 11,000 years. Today there are over concessionaires in advance. nett will never forget seeing one of the world’s most spectacular wildlife 600 fragile, relatively undisturbed archeological sites. The oldest one • Ideal place for viewing native vegeta- tion, the unique caliche forest, and displays—over 30,000 pinnipeds and up to five different species hauled dates back to 11,600 years before the present—some of the oldest evi- seals and sea lions (with ranger escort). out on the point’s beaches at certain times of year. dence of human presence in North America. Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo • Due to high incidence of strong winds, Other wildlife include the island fox and deer mouse. Both of these and his men laid eyes on San Miguel Island in 1542. Upon claiming the swimming, snorkeling, diving, and little creatures are “endemics”—they are found only on the Channel island for the Spanish crown, Cabrillo named it “La Posesion.” Some kayaking are limited and recommend- Islands. The island fox, the size of a house cat, is the largest land animal stories say that Cabrillo wintered and died on San Miguel Island. No ed for the experienced visitor. on the island. In the waters surrounding San Miguel, the marine animals one knows where Cabrillo is buried, but there is a memorial commemo- • Despite the wind, Cuyler Harbor is one get much larger. Dolphins and porpoises are often spotted along with rating the explorer on a bluff overlooking Cuyler Harbor. of the most scenic beaches in the park. gray whales, killer whales, and the largest animal of all, the blue whale. Other outstanding island resources that visitors may experience on In the spring and summer the skies are filled with birds. Boaters San Miguel include the caliche forest (sand-castings of ancient vegeta- Refer to related articles for more information. entering Cuyler Harbor receive a greeting from western gulls, California tion), fossil bones of the Pleistocene pygmy mammoths that stood 4 to 6 brown pelicans, cormorants, and Cassin’s auklets that nest on Prince feet at the shoulders, 150 years of ranching history, and numerous ship- Island. Black oystercatchers, with their bright red bills and pink feet, wrecks. Whether you are interested in life of the past or life of the pres- Island Facts feed along the beach. Terrestrial residents include the western meadow- ent, San Miguel Island has it in abundance. Visit, explore, and enjoy. • Located in Santa Barbara County. Hiking Information • 14 square miles; 9325 acres; 8 miles long by 4 miles wide. Destination Distance Difficulty Description • The San Miguel Island fox, deer mouse (from Cuyler Harbor) (miles, round-trip) and introduced rat are the only land mammals found on San Miguel Island. Cuyler Harbor Beach 2 Easy A wonderful 2-mile-long white sand beach to explore. Use caution around rockfalls. • Up to five different pinniped species Lester Ranch site 2 Moderate Hike up a spectacular canyon with lush native vegetation to an overlook and two historic sites. and 30,000 individuals can be found at Point Bennett, one of the largest Caliche Forest 5 Strenuous View sand-castings of ancient vegetation. Must be accompanied by a park ranger. concentrations of wildlife in the world. • One of the oldest known Chumash Point Bennett 16 Strenuous Continue past the caliche forest with a park ranger to view over 30,000 seals and sea lions. archeological sites (11,600 years ago) Lester Point 5 Strenuous Hikers must be accompanied by a park ranger on this hike to an incredible, windswept overlook. is on San Miguel Island. • Over a dozen Channel Islands endemic · Hikers must stay on island trails to protect fragile vegetation and for visitor safety. plants. · Hikers must be accompanied by a park ranger beyond the ranger station. Tim Hauf

Caliche forest, San Miguel Island Tim Hauf

Cuyler Harbor from Harris Point trail, San Miguel Is. Tim Hauf

1188 Island Views Elephant seals, Point Bennett, San Miguel Island Seals and Sea Lions

Walking to Point Bennett on the responding cold and warm currents. northern elephant seals’ diving and migration Things To Do western tip of San Miguel Island requires Islands also bring diversity by providing patterns and, of course, the impacts of El Niño some stamina, for it is a fifteen-mile roundtrip shelf areas where sunlight can penetrate the on the pinniped population. Visit the park’s • One-day trips, long overnight camping hike. About halfway across the island, how- water, and algae, such as the giant bladder web site (www.nps.gov/chis/) for more infor- trips (minimum stay is generally three ever, there is something that will help you kelp, can grow. The dense kelp forests around mation on these research projects. days—Friday to Sunday), and multi-day on and encourage your feet to keep moving. the islands provide food and shelter for many These pinnipeds are protected by spending boat trips. That something is a sound—faint at first, but varieties of plants and animals. Diversity is at least part of their lives in a national park—or • Be prepared for adverse weather. Dan Richards gradually getting louder and louder. The noise also linked to upwelling conditions that exist are they? Some threats to these animals know • Hiking options are limited. Visitors may is a sort of rumble, low and rolling. What can Elephant seal pups near San Miguel Island. Upwelling sucks cold, no boundaries. Threats made by water pol- explore a small area on their own— be making this strange sound? As you come including the 2-mile-long Cuyler Har- Steller sea lions have not been seen since the nutrient-rich water that normally lies at the lution, plastics and debris in the ocean, oil bor beach and the 1-mile trail to the over the rise at Point Bennett you find your 1980s, a few Guadalupe fur seals are occasion- bottom of the ocean to the surface, providing spills, overharvesting of fisheries, toxins, and ranger station. To see other parts of answer. There are thousands of elephant seals ally sighted. Nevertheless, not only are more food for hundreds of species. pesticides affect even isolated areas like Point the island you must go with a ranger. on the beach—flipping up sand over their huge species sighted at this remote spot than at The isolation of the islands also plays a role. Bennett. These threats can also affect people. Rangers are generally available to torpedo-shaped bodies, moving like globs of anywhere else on the planet, but this gathering A beach all to themselves with no disturbance Without protection, the spectacular rituals lead hikes, but check with the park or JELL-O over the sand, and carving out ter- represents one of the largest congregations from people must be very enticing for seals performed on the beaches of Point Bennett concessionaires in advance. ritories to call their own. The originators of the of wildlife in the world. Staggering popula- and sea lions. Therefore, the Santa Barbara can become a thing of the past. Generations • Ideal place for viewing native vegeta- noise that you have been listening to are the tions of over 70,000 California sea lions; 5,000 Channel, the islands, and Point Bennett, to come may only experience the grandeur of tion, the unique caliche forest, and gigantic males with their long proboscises that northern fur seals; 80,000 northern elephant specifically, provide all the necessary ingredi- Point Bennett through stories and photos. seals and sea lions (with ranger escort). gives the species its name. You are witnessing seals; and 1,100 harbor seals breed and pup on ents they need—wide sandy beaches, plenty of People can make sure pinnipeds of the • Due to high incidence of strong winds, a timeless ritual of which sound is just a small the island each year. food, and others of their kind. park and world survive into the future. Simple swimming, snorkeling, diving, and part. kayaking are limited and recommend- The diversity of pinnipeds is part of a larger Researchers from the National Marine things like recycling plastics can make a dif- ed for the experienced visitor. The elephant seal is one of four species of picture of biological diversity found in the Fisheries Service, in cooperation with the ference to a curious young sea lion looking • Despite the wind, Cuyler Harbor is one pinniped (or “wing or feather-footed”) marine Santa Barbara Channel. San Miguel Island park, have been studying the seals and sea for something to play with. That plaything of the most scenic beaches in the park. mammals that are commonly sighted around lies in an area of water that overlaps two cur- lions of San Miguel since 1968. Long-term does not need to be a piece of plastic web- Point Bennett. Other species include Califor- rents—a cold current moving down the Pacific behavior studies on marked animals provide bing that may strangle it. The most important nia sea lions, northern fur seals, and harbor coast from Alaska and a warm current moving information about reproductive behavior action people can take is to visit Point Bennett. Refer to related articles for more information. seals. At one time, two other species were up the Pacific coast from Mexico. Those two as well as migratory and feeding patterns. Discover the world of the pinnipeds for your- found here in abundance—Steller, or north- currents meet and intermingle not only water, Current studies focus on winter feeding and self—then tell others how important it is to ern, sea lions and Guadalupe fur seals. While but many of the species associated with cor- maternal behavior of California sea lions, keep the rituals continuing.

Whale Watching

The waters surrounding Channel March, blue and humpback whales during the public whale watching boats or private boats. remember that whales are wild animals and Islands National Park are home to many summer, and common dolphins throughout Whales have been known to approach boats can be unpredictable. diverse and beautiful species of cetaceans the entire year. Whales and dolphins can be quite closely. Under the Marine Mammal We need to continue to explore the world (whales, dolphins, and porpoises). About seen either from shore or from a boat. The Protection Act, boaters must stay at least 100 of whales and dolphins. The well-being of the one third of the cetacean species found best shore viewing is from a high spot on yards from whales unless the whale chooses to cetacean population is a good indication of worldwide can be seen right here in our own a point that juts out into the ocean. Some approach the boat. the health of the marine ecosystem. Our ability backyard, the Santa Barbara Channel. The 27 examples include Point Dume in Malibu, the Many whales are on the endangered species to bring these species into the next century species sighted in the channel include gray, Palos Verdes Peninsula near Los Angeles, and list and should be treated with special care. All and beyond is an indication of the future of blue, humpback, minke, sperm, and pilot Point Loma in San Diego. The park visitor whales are protected by the Marine Mammal life on this planet. Every day we learn more whales; orcas; Dall’s porpoises; and Risso’s, center has a tower with telescopes, which can Protection Act; it is illegal to disturb or harm about these mysterious and unique creatures Pacific white-sided, common, and bottlenose be used for whale watching as well as island any marine mammal. Boaters who use private that dwell beneath the water, yet rise above it dolphins. viewing. Watching in the early morning hours, craft to watch whales must remember to stay to breathe. This diversity of cetacean species offers a before the wind causes whitecaps on the at least 100 yards away from whales. Boaters The park concessionaires offer whale great opportunity to whale watch year-round. water’s surface, will provide you with the best who frighten or interrupt the whales’ activi- watching during the year. Please refer to the The most common sightings are of gray whales opportunity to see whales from shore. ties by approaching too closely could drive the “Transportation—How To Get There” section from mid- to late-December through mid- Closer viewing of whales is possible from whales away from food or young calves. Please on Page 2 for contact information.

Whale Habits Whether you are watching from shore or in a boat, here are a few distinctive habits to look for. Spouts Your first indication of a whale Breaching No one knows why whales Diving Diving is preceded by whales thrust- Spyhopping Whales and dolphins are will probably be its spout or “blow.” It will perform this most spectacular of their behaviors. ing their tail flukes out of the water. Typically, believed to have reasonable vision in air as be visible for many miles on a calm day, and It may be part of the courtship display, a signal, whales make a series of shallow dives, followed well as water. On occasion, a whale will an explosive “whoosh” of exhalation may an effort to dislodge parasites, an expression of by a deep dive. extend its head vertically from the sea. be heard up to 1/2 mile away. The spout is stress, or just for fun. When breaching, three- Footprints Ripples caused by the vertical Supported by thrusting flukes, the whale’s mainly condensation created as the whale’s quarters or more of the whale’s body bursts thrusts of the tail as the whale dives are called head can rise 8-10 feet above the surface, warm, humid breath expands and cools in forth from the water, pivots onto its side or “footprints.” sometimes turning slowly for thirty seconds the sea air. back, and falls back with an enormous splash. or more before slipping back underwater.

Brad Sillasen NPS Brad Sillasen NPS

Blue whale with spout Breaching humpback whale Blue whale fluke Gray whale spyhopping

Island Views 19 Limiting Your Impact Boating and Kayaking Regulations and Guidelines for Protecting Natural and Cultural Resources

Boating (excluding personal water- Refer to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric craft—see regulations on page 20) and kayaking Administration’s (NOAA) National Ocean Survey are unique and rewarding ways to experience the charts 18720, 18721, 18725, 18727, 18728, 18729, pristine marine environment of Channel Islands and 18756. National Park. You will find solitude and splen- Visitors may boat on their own or with a park dor. Here you will also face new challenges and authorized commercial service operator. Due to may encounter unexpected dangers. This section challenging weather conditions, boating should Jeff Foot is designed to help in planning a safe, enjoyable, not be attempted by the novice or anyone who is NPS and environmentally sound sea kayak trip in the not properly trained, conditioned, and equipped. park. Currents, shifting swells, fog, and strong winds Harbor seals, Santa Rosa Island Brown pelican, Anacapa Island can change quickly in the channel. The trip to the The protection and preservation of Planning Your Trip · Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations governs islands also takes the boaters across some of the your park’s biological, cultural, and historical Kayaking: Sea kayaking is a high-risk activity all national parks including Channel Islands busiest shipping lanes in California. Ship speeds resources is a major mission of the National Park that has caused the death of park visitors, and and is available by visiting our website. of 25 to 35 knots present a special hazard to boat- Service. By following the park regulations and annually numerous near-fatal incidents with sea · Fishing in the waters of Channel Islands ers while crossing the channel. guidelines, you can help protect these rare and kayakers occur in the park. The challenging and National Park is governed by the state of There are no public moorings or all-weather unique treasures of Channel Islands National quickly changing weather and, at times, extreme California. The state sport fishing regula anchorages around the islands. It is recom- Park for future generations to enjoy. sea conditions and dangerous sea caves greatly tions for ocean waters apply in the park. A mended that one person stay on board the boat at valid California fishing license with an ocean add to the risks of sea kayaking in the park. Sea Regulations all times. Boaters are responsible for any damage enhancement stamp is required to fish kayaking on your own in any area of the park There are a number of federal and state laws to the resources caused by their boat. within the park. should not be attempted by novice or first-time and regulations that protect Channel Islands Marine Protected Areas in the Channel kayakers or anyone who is not properly experi- Weather National Park and the people who visit here. · Islands were established in 2003. Within enced, trained, conditioned, and equipped. Conditions in the Santa Barbara Channel and Visitors to the park are responsible for knowing these reserves it is unlawful to injure, Visitors may kayak on their own or with a park around the islands are variable, and the ocean is and abiding by those rules. Listed below are some authorized guide/outfitter. For your safety, the damage, take, or possess any living, geologi unforgiving. Only experienced boaters with Kayaking near the Arch Rock, Anacapa Island of the most important rules you need to know. cal, or cultural marine resource, except National Park Service (NPS) strongly recom- vessels capable of withstanding severe weather Further information is available from park rang- under a permit or specific authorization from mends that sea kayaking be done with one of the are advised to make the cross-channel passage. ers in Ventura and on the islands or under the the commission for research, restoration, or park’s authorized guide/outfitters. The guided Boaters should obtain the latest weather broad- “Laws and Policies” section of our website (www. monitoring purposes. There are 10 marine trips are moderate to strenuous in nature but cast provided by the NOAA Weather Service nps.gov/chis). reserves and two conservation areas in some do not require previous kayaking experi- by calling (805) 988-6610, visiting its web site · Fishing is prohibited in the marine reserves. the Channel Islands. Visit http://www.dfg. ence. at www.wrc.noaa.gov/, and by monitoring the · Personal watercraft such as jet skis are not ca.gov for more information, including maps Visitors with their own kayaks who would like weather radio—VHF-FM 162.475 MHz (weather to explore the park may contact the park conces- station 3) for marine forecasts and VHF-FM allowed in park waters. and details of the regulations. · Pets are not allowed on the islands. Service sionaires, who will transport kayaks on their 162.55 MHz (weather station 1) and VHF-FM Guidelines animals require a permit from the Superin- public trips for an extra fee. The concessionaires 162.40 MHz (weather station 2) for land-based Avoid areas—sea caves (including dry tendent. offer year-round transportation to the islands for observations. caves], offshore rocks, cliffs, and beaches)— · Fires are not permitted. Smoking is only day visits and camping trips. Weather conditions vary considerably in the where birds, seals, and sea lions are roosting, allowed in designated areas. Sea kayaking opportunities are available channel. The calmest winds and sea conditions resting, nesting, or pupping. These animals are · Landing is not permitted on offshore rocks throughout the park. To help you decide which often occur August through October, making easily disturbed. Under federal law it is illegal to and islets. island to visit, specific island information is kayaking ideal. Kayaking is possible during other disturb and/or harm these animals. They are sen- · Waters around Point Bennett on San Miguel available at www.nps.gov/chis or from the visitor months, but with a much greater chance for sitive to any type of human disturbance including Island are closed to protect seals and center through publications, exhibits, and the adverse wind and seas with sudden unexpected loud noises and artificial light. Disturbance while sea lions. park movie. changes. High winds may occur regardless of the animals are resting can cause a fatal depletion of · Hikers must stay on established trails on The area of the park that is most popular for forecast. Forty-knot winds are not unusual for energy reserves. During the nesting or pupping Anacapa, Santa Barbara, and San Miguel sea kayaking is centered around Scorpion Beach Santa Rosa and San Miguel Islands. Anacapa and season, disturbance may cause them to crush Islands. on East Santa Cruz Island. This location is a Santa Barbara Islands have more moderate winds. or abandon their nests, eggs, chicks, or pups. · Some sea caves at Santa Cruz Island are world-class destination for sea kayaking because Winds are often calm in the early morning Without parental protection, the eggs or young closed to protect nesting seabirds. of easy beach access, clear ocean waters, nearby and increase during the afternoon. Generally the may overheat and are vulnerable to predation. · The shoreline of Santa Barbara Island is camping, readily available concessionaire boat wind comes from the northwest, but kayakers and Entire colonies have been lost this way. Be careful closed to landing except for the cove below transportation service, and a spectacular shore- boaters must be also be prepared for strong east not to disturb seal pups that appear stranded on the ranger station. line with beautiful sea cave and cliffs to explore. or Santa Ana winds at anytime, especially from beaches. These pups are being weaned by their · The shoreline of San Miguel is closed to Sea kayaking at San Miguel and Santa Rosa September through April. Dense fog is common mothers. landing except at Cuyler Harbor. Islands is recommended to only the most during the summer months, but may occur at any Look ahead and give animals at least a · The beaches at Skunk Pt. and Sandy Pt. on highly experienced (expert), skilled, conditioned time, making chart and compass navigation man- 100-yard clearance. Approach new territory Santa Rosa are closed to protect wildlife. kayakers with all necessary safety equipment due datory. Ocean currents of considerable strength slowly and quietly. If an animal starts to look · The waters on the north side of West to the consistently extreme weather and sea con- may be encountered both near- and offshore alarmed (appears agitated or starts watching Anacapa Island are closed most of the year ditions that regularly dominate these areas. from the islands. Ocean water temperatures range you), then you are too close. This can cause an to protect nesting pelicans. Due to the many hazards of crossing the chan- from the lower 50s (°F) in the winter to the upper animal severe stress. Sit calmly at a safe distance. · Collecting of plants, rocks, animals, and nel from or to the mainland to the park islands 60s (°F) in the fall. Let the animals adjust to your presence, and you the NPS does not recommend this be attempted artifacts is prohibited. Safety will be rewarded with exciting displays of natural by sea kayakers. · The following items may not be brought to Due to challenging weather conditions, boat- behavior. Boating: To help you decide which island the park: live or potted plants, soil, cut ing and kayaking should not be attempted by the For your safety as well as theirs, do not ap- to visit, specific island information is available flowers, firewood or any wood with attached novice or anyone who is not properly trained, proach sick or injured animals. Alert a ranger at www.nps.gov/chis or from the visitor center bark, corrugated boxes, tools or equipment conditioned, and equipped. Safety requires or a boat concession employee. through publications, exhibits, and the park with attached soil, motorized vehicles, good planning and common sense. Boating and Take advantage of the islands’ best weather movie. Boaters may land on all five islands within and bicycles. kayaking are potentially hazardous, even for by kayaking during September and October. the park throughout the year. · Channel Islands National Park local regula experienced operators. Please follow these saftey Most seabirds, shorebirds, and pinnipeds have Detailed boating information about the tions: Each national park has specific local recommendations: completed their reproductive cycles by this time. channel and islands may be obtained from the regulations established under the superin- Use the buddy system.There are no life- In addition, calm seas and wind are common U.S. Coast Guard’s (USCG) “Local Notice to tendent’s discretionary authority under Title guards on duty. Boating and kayaking is at your during these months. Mariners” publication by contacting the Coast 36 CFR. These regulations are compiled own risk. Stay together and paddle within the Remember, you’re in their habitat. Help Guard at (510) 437-2981. Cruising guides to the annually and available at www.nps.gov/chis skills of the least experienced paddler in the educate others. Let’s protect our wildlife for all Channel Islands and nautical charts are available or in print at park headquarters. group. to see. from local marine stores and online bookstores. 20 Island Views Boating and Kayaking Landing Information

Island Permit Fee Landing Areas Landing Facility Required East Anacapa No No Landing Cove Small dock* Middle Anacapa Yes* No Schedule with ranger Rocky shoreline West Anacapa No No Only at Frenchys Cove Beach eastern Santa Cruz No No Anywhere Beach; pier at Scorpion (NPS property) and Prisoners western Santa Cruz Yes* Yes* TNC designated areas Beach (TNC property) Santa Rosa No* No Anywhere* Beach; pier in Bechers Bay San Miguel No* No Only at Cuyler Harbor* Beach Santa Barbara No No Landing Cove Small dock*

* Please see specific island information below for details.

Kayak Outfitters Visitors may kayak with one of several outfitters that offer a variety of different kayak trips to the Channel Islands. The trips are moderate to strenuous in nature, but some do not require previous kayaking experi- ence. Most kayak excursions are offered from May through October. Tim Hauf Tim

Aquasports (800) 773-2309 Paddle Sports (805) 899-4925 (805) 968-7231 Santa Barbara Adventure Co. (805) 898-0671 Channel Islands Kayak Center (805) 984-5995 Southwind Kayak Center (800) SOUTHWIND Kayaking near the Arch Rock, Anacapa Island

Obtain current weather and sea condi- kayakers must have the following items: 1) Life- · Marine reserves are closed to fishing. The sionaire only. Private boaters must anchor a tions. The conditions around the islands are jackets—all paddlers must have lifejackets; 2) area between Scorpion Rock and Potato Harbor reasonable distance from these moorings. This is considered “open ocean.” Extreme weather Helmets—always wear a helmet when paddling from the shoreline out to six nautical miles is a not an all-weather anchorage. It is recommended conditions may be encountered at any time, and below cliffs and in sea caves; 3) HV F radio, tow marine reserve— the take of living, geological, or that one person stay on board the boat at all sea conditions may become dangerous without line, compass, throw bag, first aid kit, signaling cultural resources is prohibited. Please see page 9 times. The landing dock is available for unload- warning.There is no place where visitors will be device (airhorn, whistle, or signal mirror). Carry for more information on marine reserves. ing purposes only. No craft, including kayaks and kayaking in a protected cove. Always observe and these items with you and know how to use them; inflatables, should be left moored to the dock. Landing Permits and Procedures evaluate sea conditions before entering the water. 4) Wetsuits are highly recommended. Water tem- Please lift your inflatables and kayaks up to the Be alert to wind, wave, and currents at all times. peratures remain cold throughout the year. There are no landing permits required for the lower landing. islands administered by the NPS; however, there Do not travel downwind (with the wind) as Sea Caves. Sea caves can be very dangerous— Santa Cruz Island: Boaters may land on the are closed and restricted areas on each island. you will have to return into a headwind. large waves or swells can fill a cave unexpectedly. eastern 24 percent of Santa Cruz Island without a Wind and waves typically come out of the Even on calm days, the wake from large ships in Please refer to the “Limiting Your Impact” sec- permit. This area is owned by the NPS and is east northwest or west. Winds tend to increase in the the channel can pose a danger to boaters and tion on page 20 for information on regulations of the property line between Prisoners Harbor afternoon. Morning hours can be a better time kayakers in caves. Be extremely careful and wear and guidelines. A landing permit is required to and Valley Anchorage. No buoys are available at for kayaking and other watersports. Challenging a helmet at all times when exploring sea caves. land on The Nature Conservancy (TNC) prop- any landing area. Buoys are reserved for the NPS Santa Ana or east winds may occur at anytime, Always observe and evaluate sea conditions erty on Santa Cruz Island. It is recommended that and the USCG. A pier is available at Scorpion but are most common from September through before entering any sea cave. boaters contact the park ranger on each island Anchorage and Prisoners Harbor. Due to surf before landing for an orientation, information on April. Shipping Lanes. Major shipping lanes lie and swell conditions, boaters should use extreme daily events, island safety, landing instructions, Do not exceed your skill level. If you are between the islands and the mainland. Boaters caution when making surf-landings at any beach, new to sea kayaking or other watersports, stay and kayakers should be aware of their location weather conditions, or camping check-in. Park especially Smugglers Cove and those beaches close to your launch area and paddle with an ex- and use caution when crossing them. Listen to rangers occasionally monitor VHF Channel 16. facing south and southeast between San Pedro perienced kayaker. Ask NPS personnel or kayak the USCG notice to mariners broadcast on VHF Channel 16 is a hailing frequency only, and rang- Point and Sandstone Point. guides if you have questions concerning weather, Channel 22 since the waters in and surround- ers will instruct you to switch to another channel A permit to land on the other 76 percent of safety, etc. Be capable of re-entering your kayak ing the park are sometimes closed for military upon contact. If you cannot hail the park ranger Santa Cruz Island is required from TNC. A fee is from the water. operations. on the island on which you plan to land, try con- charged, and no overnight island use is permit- tacting a ranger on a neighboring island, as island Let someone know where you are going ted. Contact (805) 642-0345 ext. 503 for a permit; Regulations canyons and mountains sometimes obscure radio and when you expect to return. Boaters and allow 15 days for processing. For more informa- In addition to the regulations listed below kayakers should always file a float plan with transmission. Boaters may land according to the tion, visit www.nature.org/ please see “Limiting Your Impact” on page 20 and family and/or friends and inform them of your following procedures. Please note that rocks or Santa Rosa Island: Boaters may land along the Laws and Policies section of the park website departure and return. The float plan should islets on or near any of the islands are closed coastline and on beaches without a permit for day (www.nps.gov/chis) for additional information. include: 1) the number of boats and boaters on year-round to any landing. use only. Beaches between and including Skunk · You may not exit your kayak while in the sea the trip as well as the color, size, and type of craft Santa Barbara Island: A permit is not Point and East Point are closed from March 1st to caves. used; 2) names and addresses for the boaters, required to land or hike on Santa Barbara Island. September 15th in order to protect the threat- · Do disturb wildlife within caves. It is illegal as well as emergency phone numbers; 3) any Access to the island is permitted only at the ened snowy plover. The beaches around Sandy to feed, touch, tease, frighten, or intentionally survival and special emergency equipment should Landing Cove. The landing dock is available for Point are closed year-round. Boaters may not disturb wildlife. be listed (EPIRB, VHF, food rations, flares, etc.); unloading purposes only. No craft, including use the mooring buoys in Bechers Bay. They are · Please avoid use of artificial lights in caves. and 4) the place, date, and time of departure and kayaks and inflatables, should be left moored to reserved for the NPS, the Coast Guard, and the · Stay off rocks. ScorpionR ock and all other return should be logged as well as destination(s). the dock. Please lift your inflatables up to the park concessionaire. offshore islets are off limits. This information can be invaluable for a search upper landing. San Miguel Island: Overnight anchorages · Several sea caves are closed to public entry. operation if something goes wrong. Remember Anacapa Island: A permit is not required are restricted to Cuyler Harbor and Tyler Bight. To protect nesting ashy storm-petrels and Xan- to be flexible with your plans. Weather should to land or hike on East Anacapa Island or at Visitors may land only on the beach at Cuyler tus’s murrelets and their habitats, Bat Cave and always determine your course of action. If you Frenchys Cove. West Anacapa (except Frenchys Harbor. Visitors may walk the beach at Cuyler caves #3 and #4 within the Cavern Point Cove are boating or kayaking across the channel, Cove) is a protected research natural area and is Harbor and hike up Nidever Canyon to the Cave Complex are closed year-round. (Bat Cave: you should also file a formal float plan with the closed to visitors. Visitors are allowed on Middle ranger station. To hike beyond the ranger station, UTM 11S 0262623, 3770695 Lat. N34°03’07.2”, harbormaster before departing and contact island Anacapa by permit only and when accompanied visitors must be escorted by a ranger and have a Long. W119°34’25; Cavern #3 & #4: UTM 11S rangers at the beginning and end of the paddle. by a park ranger. The moorings near the Landing permit. Call (805) 658-5711 prior to mainland 0263641, 3770901 Lat. N34°03’16.0”, Long. Cove at East Anacapa Island are reserved for use Carefully select and equip your paddle departure to obtain a permit. W119°33’41). Refer to the map above. by the NPS, the USCG, and the park conces- craft. Craft should be of a sea kayak design and Island Views 21 Santa Barbara Island

The smallest of the Channel Islands is deceptive. From a Unfortunately, the island’s recovery did not come soon enough for distance, this one-square-mile island looks barren, uninteresting, and the endemic Santa Barbara Island song sparrow. The destruction of this Things To Do forlorn. Upon closer examination, the island offers more than one sparrow’s sagebrush and coreopsis nesting habitat and the presence of • One-day trips and long overnight would expect—an island of resting elephant seals, blooming yellow feral cats led to the extinction of this species in the 1960s. This sparrow, camping trips (minimum stay is flowers, tumbling Xantus’s murrelet chicks, and rich cultural history. which was found only on Santa Barbara Island and is now lost forever, generally 3 days—Friday to Sunday). Santa Barbara Island is the center of a chain of jewels, a crossroads for was one of the smallest forms of song sparrow, differentiated by its very • The entire island is accessible through people and animals. grey back. the six miles of scenic trails. Unlimited Santa Barbara Island is 38 miles from San Pedro, California. The Seabird colonies have also benefited from the recovery of Santa and exceptional island coastal views smallest of the California Channel Islands, it is only one square mile in Barbara Island. The island is one of the most important seabird nesting await the visitor. size, or 639 acres. Formed by underwater volcanic activity, Santa Bar- sites within the Channel Islands, with 11 nesting species. Thousands • Ideal place for swimming, snorkeling, bara Island is roughly triangular in outline and emerges from the ocean of western gulls nest every year on the island, some right along the diving, and kayaking. Since Santa Barbara Island is a cliff island, access as a giant, twin-peaked mesa with steep cliffs. In 1602 explorer Sebas- trailside. Fluffy chicks hatch in June and mature to fly away from the to the water is only at the Landing tian Vizcaino named Santa Barbara Island in honor of the saint whose nest in July. The steep cliffs also provide nesting sites for the endangered Cove (no beaches). day is December 4th, the day he arrived. California brown pelicans, three species of cormorants, three species • Excellent wildlife viewing—seabirds, Visitors to Santa Barbara Island can witness the incredible recovery of storm-petrels, and one of the world’s largest colonies of Xantus’s seals, and sea lions. of the island’s plant life and wildlife after years of habitat and species murrelets. • Great place to the see recovery loss due to ranching and farming activities, including the introduction The rocky shores of Santa Barbara Island also provide resting and of native vegetation. Wonderful of nonnative plants, rabbits, and cats. Although non-native grasses still breeding areas for California sea lions, harbor seals, and northern wildflower displays in the spring. dominate the landscape, native vegetation is recovering slowly with the elephant seals. These marine mammals feed in the rich kelp forests help of the National Park Service’s resource management program. surrounding the island. The raucous barking of sea lions can be heard Refer to related articles for more information. After winter rains, the native plants of the island come alive with color. from most areas of the island. Overlooks, such as the Sea Lion Rookery, The strange tree sunflower, or coreopsis, blossoms with bright yellow Webster Point, and Elephant Seal Cove, provide excellent spots to look bouquets. Other plants, like the endemic Santa Barbara Island live- down on seals and sea lions. Visitors can also jump in the water to see Island Facts forever, shrubby buckwheat, chickory, and cream cups, add touches of what lies beneath the ocean surface. Snorkeling in the Landing Cove, color to the island’s palette. visitors can see bright sea stars, spiny sea urchins, and brilliant orange • Located in Santa Barbara County. This recovery of native vegetation, along with the removal of non- Garibaldi fish. California sea lions and occasional harbor seals frequent • One square mile in size. native predators, has aided in the reestablishment of nesting land birds. the Landing Cove waters and the surrounding rocky ledges. • Average rainfall is 12 inches per year. • The endemic, threatened island night Today there are 14 landbirds that nest annually on the island. Three of All of these incredible resources can be experienced by hiking the lizard occurs only on Santa Barbara, these, the horned lark, orange-crowned warbler, and house finch, are six miles of trails and by snorkeling, swimming, or kayaking along the San Nicholas, and San Clemente endemic subspecies found only on Santa Barbara Island. island’s coast. Islands. • Home to 14 endemic plant species and subspecies that occur only on the Channel Islands. Forms of buckwheat, dudleya, cream cups, and chicory are found only on Santa Barbara Island. • The island’s cliffs offer perfect nesting habitat for one of the world’s largest breeding colonies of Xantus’s murrelets, a rare seabird. • Squatters lived on the island before Tim Hauf NPS C. Drost government leasing began in 1871.

Island night lizard Santa Barbara Island live-forever Xantus’s murrelet chick Tim Hauf

Coreopsis near Arch Point

Hiking Information

Destination Distance Difficulty Description (from visitor center) (miles, round-trip)

Arch Point 2 Moderate Great views and wildflowers in season.

Elephant Seal Cove 5 Strenuous View elephant seals from steep cliffs.

Sea Lion Rookery 4 Moderate View seal lions as they haul out on the coast.

· Portions of trails are subject to closure when pelicans are nesting from January - August. · Hikers must stay on island trails to protect vegetation, nesting seabirds, and for visitor safety. 22 Island Views Falcon (continued from page 1)

A Surprise Discovery logistical issues made monitoring peregrine Things To Do Although a pair of peregrine falcons falcons on Santa Barbara Island difficult. This returned to Santa Barbara Island in 1995 and year, however, the Montrose Settlements began nesting, no successful reproduction had Restoration Program funded the SCPBRG been documented or confirmed untilA pril to conduct two comprehensive monitoring 2007 when raptor biologist Brian Latta made events within a five year period. Monitoring a surprise discovery. “I climbed to the eyrie, began in February 2007. hoping to recover an unhatched egg we could It is not known to what degree the recovery use for contaminant analysis. Imagine my sur- of peregrine falcons on the Channel Islands prise to find two recently hatched young and is being affected by ongoing contamination in another beginning to hatch.” the food web. Some pairs may still be experi- David Hanes Brian Latta When the chicks were two to three weeks of encing reduced productivity due to eggshell age, biologists returned to the nest site to band thinning. SCPBRG will collect prey remains Peregrine chicks in Santa Barbara Island nest Biologist rappel on Santa Barbara Island to check on peregrine chicks them so they could be identified and studied when they band the new chicks for contami- throughout the rest of their life. The chicks nant analysis. This program will monitor the fledged, or left the nest, in May 2007. distribution, number of pairs, and reproduc- tive success of peregrine falcons on the Chan- Peregrine Falcon Recovery nel Islands. The Channel Islands are the last area in the “The more we know about the status of Refer to related articles for more information. country to see recovery of peregrine falcons. peregrines on the Channel Islands, the better Prior to 1945 there were between 20 and 30 we can protect and restore them,” said Greg pairs on the Channel Islands and hundreds in Baker, program manager for the Montrose Island Facts southern California. However, by 1955 they Settlements Restoration Program. “As top had disappeared from the islands and only two predators of their food chain, peregrine Zach Smith • Located in Santa Barbara County. pairs were located in California by 1970. falcons are also an excellent indicator species NPS • One square mile in size. In 1975 the Santa Cruz Predatory Bird of the overall health of the ecosystem in which Peregrine falcon in flight on Santa Barbara Island Releasing peregrine falcons on San Miguel Island. • Average rainfall is 12 inches per year. Research Group (SCPRG) was formed to they live.” • The endemic, threatened island night restore the endangered peregrine falcon and Northern-nesting peregrines are www.scpbrg.org. lizard occurs only on Santa Barbara, population in California. Between 1979 and Peregrine Facts among North America’s long-distance The Montrose Settlements Restoration Pro- San Nicholas, and San Clemente migratory species, some moving over Islands. 1992 they captive bred and released over 800 • Peregrines are widespread throughout the gram is a multi-agency effort to restore resources • Home to 14 endemic plant species birds throughout the state, including 31 on world and are found in every continent 15,000 miles annually. injured by past DDT and PCB releases. The and subspecies that occur only on the the Channel Islands. The first pair to become except for Antarctica. ______program uses funds from a 2000 settlement with Channel Islands. Forms of buckwheat, reestablished on the islands was on Anacapa • Peregrines prey on land- and seabirds. The SCPBRG was formed ion 1975 to restore the Montrose Chemical Corporation and other dudleya, cream cups, and chicory are in 1987, and in 1989 the first recorded natural • Peregrine falcons are the fastest living an endangered peregrine falcon population in defendants to fund bald eagle, seabird, and found only on Santa Barbara Island. reproduction on the islands since the 1940s creatures. The latest recorded top flight California. Based out of U.C. Santa Cruz, they peregrine falcon restoration projects, as well as • The island’s cliffs offer perfect occurred on West Anacapa. Today there are speed is 284 mph. captive breed and released over 800 peregrine projects to restore fishing and fish habitats. Fur- nesting habitat for one of the world’s about 30 active pairs of peregrine falcons on • They have a lifespan in the wild of about falcons throughout California, including the ther information on the Montrose Settlements largest breeding colonies of Xantus’s the Channel Islands. 12-16 years. Channel Islands. Today, they continue to moni- Restoration program can be found at www. murrelets, a rare seabird. • They start breeding at around two years tor and work with peregrines and other birds montroserestoration.gov. • Squatters lived on the island before Falcon’s Future of age. of prey in the Channel Islands and California. government leasing began in 1871. For the last decade, lack of funding and • The name peregrine means “wanderer” More information on SCPBRG can be found at

Tidepooling

Due to their relative isolation and protection, the tidepools in Channel Islands National Park are some of the best within southern California. Anemones, sea stars, urchins, limpets, periwinkles, chitons, barnacles, mussels, and many other beautiful species can be seen at numerous pristine tidepool sites, including Frenchys Cove on Anacapa. Check with the park’s boat concessionaires for trips to these tidepooling areas. The area between the land and the sea is not distinct, but is a zone of transition. This area may be covered with water during high tide or exposed to sunlight during low tide. Life in this intertidal region must be the hardiest within the marine environment—able to withstand hours of exposure and the incessant pounding of the energy-filled surf. Tim Hauf Intertidal life has adapted to the sea and the land. When looking at a tidepool area, notice how Tidepooling, Santa Barbara Island plants and animals may be found in certain areas and not in others. Those living in the upper splash zone are tolerant to sunlight, heat, and water loss and have either a means to “shelter” these tidepool tips: themselves or the ability to move into an area of greater moisture. An animal with a tightly closed • Watch your step! The rocks can be very slippery, and there may be small animals on them. shell or a shell firmly attached to rock will hold water within, so that it does not require water • Keep an eye on the waves. The surge can sneak up on you. surrounding it at all times. Animals found in rock crevices and submerged pools usually require • Take your time and look carefully. Tidepool organisms are often very small and more moisture to prevent them from drying out. camouflaged. Hiking Information How an animal feeds often depends on its ability to move. An animal that moves about is able • Do not collect anything! Not only is it unlawful, but if animals and shells are taken, there to search for its food. Some graze the rocks for algae, while others feed on settled debris. An may be nothing left for others to enjoy. Destination Distance Difficulty Description animal that remains stationary feeds on food particles suspended within water. • If you pick up an animal to observe, please place it back where it was found. That particular (from visitor center) (miles, round-trip) Because space is a limiting factor, there is competition between organisms. Many tidepool spot is its home territory. Arch Point 2 Moderate Great views and wildflowers in season. animals and plants are found in a small area, some may live on each other or use an old shell as a • Although you may not know the animals by name, through simple observation a great deal surface on which to live. This is why collecting is not permitted—you may be taking away a home. of information can be learned. Consider, for example, what keeps it from drying out? Why Elephant Seal Cove 5 Strenuous View elephant seals from steep cliffs. Although hardy against the forces of nature, the plants and animals of the intertidal zone can- doesn’t it get swept out to sea? Does it search for food or wait for food to come to it? Sea Lion Rookery 4 Moderate View seal lions as they haul out on the coast. not entirely endure the impact of humans. Since individuals interact with one another, minute changes in the area could disrupt the entire community. While exploring, please keep in mind · Portions of trails are subject to closure when pelicans are nesting from January - August. · Hikers must stay on island trails to protect vegetation, nesting seabirds, and for visitor safety. Island Views 23 Sanctuary Parks as Classrooms and Park Volunteer Attention educators! Do you know student programs, from half-day whale Opportunity students who would like to take a close look watching to full-day Anacapa and Santa at a sea star, examine a pygmy mammoth Cruz Island trips. For more information bone, learn more about the true story visit www.islandpackers.com or call (805) Channel Islands Naturalist Corps (CINC) that inspired the book Island of the Blue 642-1393. is a group of specially trained volunteers Dolphins, or set foot on one of the park’s dedicated to educating visitors to Channel islands? Then the park’s education program Islands National Marine Sanctuary and Chan- is for you. nel Islands National Park. Members provide Each year rangers at Channel Islands education about the unique resources found National Park share park resources with within the sanctuary and park to thousands nearly 10,000 students in classrooms and of local residents, tourists, and school chil- Volunteers come from all over the again that many at the park’s visitor center. world to help preserve and protect America’s dren annually. CINC volunteers also partici- Hour-long, in-class programs cover a natural and cultural heritage for the enjoyment pate in numerous local outreach events and variety of natural and cultural history topics of this and future generations. Volunteers of collect valuable research on marine mammals for grades 2–5 in local schools. Programs at all ages give their time and expertise to help and other important resources. the visitor center meet the needs of classes achieve the National Park Service mission. Volunteers accepted into the program are from preschool through university level. Channel Islands National Park has many specially trained in a five-week training class There is no charge for these programs and volunteer opportunities including staffing the with topics including sanctuary and park they are aligned with the California content information desk at the visitor center, interpre- resource protection programs; interpretation standards. tive naturalist, scientific data entry, historic techniques; and an overview of the physical, For more information visit www.nps. research, trail maintenance, vegetation restora- biological, and cultural aspects of the Santa gov/chis or contact the park’s education tion, and much more. Some of our recent Barbara Channel and Channel Islands. coordinator by phone at (805) 658-5735. volunteer projects have included island fox CINC volunteers represent the sanctuary Island Packers, an official park pen building on Santa Rosa and San Miguel and park onboard local whale watch vessels concessionaire, also offers a variety of Islands as part of the island fox captive breed- and educational cruises. Additional training ing program and recovery effort,D el Norte opportunities are available to become certi- Trail maintenance, planting native plants in fied to lead island hikes. Get involved in your the campground on eastern Santa Cruz Island, sanctuary and park to help protect the ocean beach clean-up on eastern Santa Cruz Island, and islands through education and research. Be a Junior Ranger and many others. Volunteer requirements include: 1) being Although the park can never repay its at least 18 years of age; 2) enjoying working This program helps children discover and protect the wonders of the volunteers for their valuable contributions, we with people (strong public speaking skills islands. Ask for a free Junior Ranger booklet do our best to make your time happy and ful- desired); 3) knowledge of, or desire to learn at the visitor center, boat/plane concession- filling.A s for the volunteering itself, “never a about, the natural and cultural history of the aire offices, or on the islands from park staff. dull moment” is the going catchphrase. While Santa Barbara Channel and Channel Islands; You may also download a copy at www.nps. some of the jobs are continuous, others finish 4) attending the required training and pro- gov/chis. and then it’s on to something else, for as long fessional development sessions; 5) commit- Kids of all ages may also become Web as you wish to stay. ting to one year of volunteer service with a Rangers by visiting www.nps.gov/webrang- Whatever volunteer job you choose, please minimum of 80 hours (which includes three ers. At the WebRanger website, you’ll play know that every park employee knows we hours per month at volunteer meetings); and fun games and solve mysteries and puzzles, could never provide the service we do without 6) ability to handle up to eight hours at sea while learning what park rangers do to our incredible volunteers. We could not do it on power and/or sailing vessels. help protect our natural resources and our without them. For information about our upcoming cultural heritage. You’ll also learn how park For more volunteer information, please volunteer orientation and training classes rangers observe and discover new things contact our Volunteer-In-Parks Coordinator programs please call (805) 382-6149 or visit about our national parks—things to share at (805) 658-5700 or visit www.nps.gov/chis. http://channelislands.noaa.gov/edu/edu_ natc.html. with visitors like you.

National Park Service Department of the Interior

Channel Islands National Park 1901 Spinnaker Dr. Ventura, CA 93001

experience your america 24 Island Views