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Home , Aberchalder, Achnaconeran, Bunarkaig, Drumnadrochit, Fort Augustus, Gairlochy

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TRAILBLAZER Way 1 EDN ‘...the Trailblazer series stands head, GreatGreat GlenGlen shoulders, waist and ankles above the rest. They are particularly strong on mapping...’ WAYWAY THE SUNDAY TIMES 38 large-scale maps & guides to 15 towns and villages With accommodation, pubs and 100km Thurso PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT restaurants in detailed guides to 50 miles

15 towns and villages including GREAT FORTFORT WILLIAMWILLIAM TOTO INVERNESSINVERNESS Fort William and Inverness GLEN WAY Aberdeen Fort William JIM MANTHORPE o Includes 38 detailed walking maps: the Glasgow largest-scale maps available – at just under 1:20,000 (8cm or 31/8 inches to 1 mile) The long- these are bigger than even the most detailed distance footpath begins walking maps currently available in the shops where the West Way o ends – at Fort William – and FORT WILLIAM TO INVERNESS Unique mapping features – walking follows the - times, directions, tricky junctions, places to line to finish at Inverness stay, places to eat, points of interest. These after 79 miles (127km). The are not general-purpose maps but fully trail passes , Loch edited maps drawn by walkers for walkers Oich and and also follows the towpath of the o Itineraries for all walkers – whether . It’s a rela- hiking the entire route or sampling high- tively easy week-long walk lights on day walks or short breaks amongst beautiful Highland o Detailed public transport information scenery but there’s a high Buses and trains for all access points level option between and o Practical information for all budgets that gives even better moun- What to see; where to eat (cafés, pubs and tain views. restaurants); where to stay (B&Bs, hotels, INCLUDES DOWNLOADABLE bunkhouses, hostels and campsites) GPS waypoints www.trailblazer-guides.com

DISTRIBUTED IN UK & BY MCA / TRAVEL ALLIANCE % 01225 473068 Price in UK UK£11.99 DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN 1 % 1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com EDN Price in USA US$19.95 ISBN 978-1-905864-80-5 1st edition

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JIM MANTHORPE (seen here bivvying on the summit of Sgurr Fhuaran in ’s Western Highlands) is a wildlife cameraman and writer. He has written and updated dozens of Trailblazer guidebooks over the years, from Ladakh to Canada. But it is the Highlands, where he is based, that he spends most of his time in. He has a particular love for wild places and wildlife and has filmed eagles, otters and orcas for various BBC shows including Springwatch. He is also the author of the – the Hillwalking Guide, from Trailblazer. Author

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Great Glen Way Publisher: Trailblazer Publications The Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey GU26 6SU, UK www.trailblazer-guides.com British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-905864-80-5 © Trailblazer 2017: Text and maps Series editor: Anna Jacomb-Hood Editing and layout: Anna Jacomb-Hood Proof-reading: Jane Thomas Cartography: Nick Hill Illustrations: © Nick Hill (pp71-3); Rev CA Johns (pp63-5) Photographs (flora) and pp162-3: © Bryn Thomas All other photographs: © Jim Manthorpe Index: Anna Jacomb-Hood All rights reserved. Other than brief extracts for the purposes of review no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publisher and copyright owner. The maps in this guide were prepared from out-of-Crown- copyright Ordnance Survey maps amended and updated by Trailblazer.

Acknowledgements FROM JIM: I’d like to thank a number of people who assisted me with the research for this guidebook. First and foremost, thank you to Claire, Oren and Zara who kept the home fires burning while I was tramping my way to Inverness. And I’m very grateful to Liz Proudlock who was able to share her local knowledge and offer a bed for the night. Finally, thank you to the Trailblazer team, particularly Anna Jacomb-Hood for her thorough editing, Jane Thomas for proof-reading, Nick Hill for the cartography and Bryn Thomas for the opportunity. A request The author and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate and up to date as possible. Nevertheless, things change. If you notice any changes or omissions that should be included in the next edition, please contact us at Trailblazer (: [email protected]). A free copy of the next edition will be sent to persons making a significant contribution.

Warning: long-distance walking can be dangerous Please read the notes on when to go (pp13-15) and outdoor safety (pp53-7). Every effort has been made by the author and publisher to ensure that the information contained herein is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, they are unable to accept responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained by anyone as a result of the advice and infor- mation given in this guide.

PHOTOS – Front cover: High above Loch Ness, near Alltsigh This page: Fishermen on Loch Lochy, Bunarkaig Overleaf: Common spotted orchid (Dactylorhiza maculata) Updated information will be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.com Printed in China; print production by D’Print (% +65-6581 3832), Singapore

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Great Glen WAY FORT WILLIAM TO INVERNESS 38 large-scale maps & guides to 15 towns and villages PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT

JIM MANTHORPE

TRAILBLAZERTRAILBLAZER PUBLICATIONSPUBLICATIONS

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INTRODUCTION The Great Glen Way About the Great Glen Way 7 – History of the Great Glen Way 8 How difficult is it? 10 – How long do you need? 12 – When to go 13 PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK Practical information for the walker Route finding 17 – Accommodation 18 – Food and drink 21 Money 23 – Other services 24 – Information for foreign visitors 24 Walking companies 26 – Walking with a dog 28 Other options for the Great Glen Way 28 Budgeting 29 Itineraries Village and town facilities 30 – Which direction? 31 Suggested itineraries 32 – Day and weekend walks 33 Hillwalking side trips 34 What to take Keep your luggage light 34 – How to carry it 34 – Footwear 35 Clothes 36 – Toiletries 37 – First-aid kit 37 – General items 37 Camping gear 38 – Sources of further information 38 – Money 39 Maps 39 – Recommended reading 40 Getting to and from the Great Glen Way National transport 41 – Getting to Britain 42 Local transport 43 – Public transport map 45 PART 2: MINIMUM IMPACT WALKING & OUTDOOR SAFETY Minimum impact walking Economic impact 47 – Environmental impact 48 – Scottish outdoor Access code 50 – Access 51 Outdoor safety Avoidance of hazards 53 – Weather forecasts 54 – Water 54 Blisters 54 – Bites 55 – Hypothermia 56 – Hyperthermia 57 Dealing with an accident 57 PART 3: THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE Conserving Scotland’s nature Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) 59 – The Great Glen Fault 59 Campaigning & conservation organisations 59 Contents

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PART 3: THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE (continued) Flora and fauna Trees 61 – Flowers 65 – Mammals 67 – Reptiles 70 Butterflies 70 – Birds 70 PART 4: ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS Using this guide 74 Fort William 76 Fort William to 81 (Lochyside 82 – 82 86 – 87 – Gairlochy 87 – 90) Gairlochy to junction by Laggan Locks 94 Side trip to the Loch Lochy munros 98 Junction by Laggan Locks to Fort Augustus 101 (Junction by Laggan Locks to via Laggan and 101 Laggan 101 – Junction by Laggan Locks to Aberchalder via , Invergarry link route 105 – Invergarry 106 – Aberchalder to Fort Augustus 110 – Fort Augustus 111) Fort Augustus to 116 (High route from Fort Augustus to junction of routes 118 – Low route from Fort Augustus to junction of routes 120 – Junction of routes to Invermoriston 120 Invermoriston 120) Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit 123 Drumnadrochit 131 Drumnadrochit to Inverness 136 Inverness 144 APPENDICES A: Gaelic 151 B: GPS Waypoints 153 C: Taking a dog along the Way 155 D: Glen Nevis and Ben Nevis 157 E: Map key 165 F: Distance charts 166

INDEX 170

OVERVIEW MAPS & PROFILES 177 Contents

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ABOUT THIS BOOK This guidebook contains all the information you need. The hard work has been done for you so you can plan your trip from home without the usual pile of books, maps and guides. When you’re all packed and ready to go, there’s comprehensive public transport information to get you to and from the trail and detailed maps and town plans to help you find your way along it. The guide includes: l All standards of accommodation with reviews of campsites, hostels, B&Bs, guesthouses and hotels l Walking companies if you want a self-guided or group/guided holiday, baggage-carrying services if you just want your luggage carried, and an accommodation-booking agency if you want some- one else to book your accommodation l Itineraries for all levels of walkers l Answers to all your questions: when to go, degree of difficulty, what to pack, and how much the whole walking holiday will cost l Walking times in both directions and GPS waypoints l Cafés, pubs, tearooms, takeaways, restaurants and shops for buy- ing supplies l Rail, bus and taxi information for all places along the path l Street plans of the main towns and villages both on and off the path l Historical, cultural and geographical background information

❏ MINIMUM IMPACT FOR MAXIMUM INSIGHT Nature’s peace will flow into you as the sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their freshness into you and storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. John Muir (one of the world’s earliest and most influential environmentalists, born in 1838) Walking in wild places is about opening ourselves up to all that is ‘green’. Treading lightly and with respect we give ourselves a precious chance to tap into the curative power of the natural world. Physical con- tact with the land makes us more in tune with it and as a result we feel all the more passionate about protecting it. It is no surprise then that, since the time of John Muir, walkers and adventurers have been concerned about the natural environment; this book seeks to continue that tradition. There is a detailed, illustrated chap- ter on the wildlife and conservation of the Highlands as well as a chap- ter devoted to minimum impact walking with ideas on how we can broaden that ethos. By developing a deeper ecological awareness through a better understanding of nature and by supporting rural economies, local busi- nesses, sensitive forms of transport and low-impact methods of farming and land-use we can all do our bit for a brighter future. In the buzz- words of today there can be few activities as ‘environmentally friendly’ as walking. About this book

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INTRODUCTION

About the Great Glen Way

The Great Glen Way opened in 2002 and is the fourth official long- distance path in Scotland. It runs for 79 miles (127km) from Fort William to Inverness, con- necting Scotland’s west The Great Glen Way runs for coast with its east, follow- 79 miles (127km) following the ing the length of the Great length of the Great Glen Glen. The glen is one of Scotland’s most significant landscape fea- tures; it is both a fault line and a glacial trough, effectively splitting the Highlands in two with the North-West Highlands on one side and the Grampian mountains on the other. For anyone wanting to cross from one side of the Highlands to the other this is the obvious place to do it as there is no mountain barrier to hinder you. The main utilises the glen, as does Thomas Telford’s Caledonian Canal which links the three major lochs that partly fill the glen: lochs Lochy, Oich and Ness.

Above: Loch Ness on a misty day, looking north. Introduction

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8 Introduction ______The Great Glen Way makes use of the canal’s towpath in places, particularly at the southern end, but for the most part it avoids the road and canal, following instead the forestry tracks as well as a dis- used railway line and an old drovers’ road. Some stretches can be a little monotonous as they negotiate the dense conifer plan- tations but the route is varied and INTRODUCTION takes in loch shore, hill, moor, Locks on the Caledonian Canal, near Corpach. beautiful Caledonian pine forest and birch woodland. There is The Great Glen Way makes use of plenty for the wildlife enthusiast the canal’s towpath in places with red squirrels, ospreys and golden eagles. And history buffs will find ancient castles, Jacobite battle sites and a WWII training area. All this and I haven’t even mentioned the . It takes about a week to complete the Way but if you only have a day or two the good transport links mean it is easy to do one or more of the suggested day and weekend walks. For those who feel 79 miles isn’t enough, the Great Glen Way can be tagged on to the 96-mile that ends where the Great Glen Way starts in Fort William. Combining the two gives an uninterrupted long- distance path of 175 miles (282km), all the way from Glasgow to Inverness.

History of the Great Glen Way

From the Iron Age, when people lived in crannogs (see box p116) on the water, to the 18th-century Jacobite uprisings, when clansmen and government troops fought over territory in the glen (see box p81) and to the build- ing of Wade’s roads through the glen (see box p93) in response to the uprisings, the Great Glen has been used as a thoroughfare for travellers. Today it’s a natural route for long-distance walkers. The Great Glen Way was first proposed way back in the 1970s by the Scottish Rights of Way Society and came to fruition thanks to the co-operation of a number of organ-

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History of the Great Glen Way 9 ______isations: Highland Council, Scottish Natural Heritage, Inverness and Nairn Enterprise, Limited, Forestry Commission Scotland, Visit Scotland and British Waterways. The Way was the fourth long-dis- tance path to be created in Scotland, following on from the West Highland Way, and . It cost half a million pounds INTRODUCTION to create, nearly half of which The Great Glen Way begins at the marker post came from European Union fund- (above) at the fort in Fort William and ends at ing. It’s always hard to say how the castle in Inverness (below, with statue of Flora MacDonald, the Jacobite heroine). much money the route generates through increased tourism to the villages and towns along the Way, but it is probably around £2 million per year.

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10 History of the Great Glen Way ______In 2002 Prince Andrew officially opened the route in Inverness. The choice of Inverness for the official opening caused something of a hoo-ha at the time, as it was felt that Fort William was the start of the walk and Inverness the end. But Prince Andrew happened to have an engagement in Inverness on the same day as the proposed opening INTRODUCTION ceremony so he was snapped up WWII landing craft practice site, near to cut the ribbon there. (see p96), where some of the train- Tony Dyer, then ing was done for the D-Day landings. Countryside Officer for the Highland Council and a key per- son in getting the Way up and running, pointed out at the time that it’s perfect- ly acceptable to walk the route in either direction, although walking south to north was the preferred choice because ‘the weather is behind you’.

How difficult is it?

Long-distance walking aficiona- The Great Glen Way is one of the dos will tell you that the Great easier of Britain’s long-distance Glen Way is one of the easier of paths ... but ... seventy-nine miles Britain’s long-distance paths, and is still a fair old hike. they are not wrong. For the most part, certainly on the southern half, the walking is on low, level and easy-to-nav- igate forestry tracks and canal towpaths with plenty of way-marking signposts to keep you right. But don’t be lulled into a false sense of security. Seventy- nine miles is still a fair old hike and walking 10 miles or more a day requires stamina. If you are new to long-distance walking don’t make the mistake of carry- ing too heavy a rucksack (see pp34-5) as this can turn a pleasant walk into a painful endurance exercise. The northern half of the trail with its steep ascents and Old commando boat station, descents and high, moorland Bunarkaig (see p95).

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How difficult is it? 11 ______walking is the toughest section but, if you are walking in the rec- ommended direction of south to north, you should have built up a bit of fitness by the time you get to that part of the walk. One of the hardest aspects of the Great Glen Way is what you will be walking upon. Forestry tracks and canal towpaths, of which there are many on the Way, are hard-wearing surfaces and can INTRODUCTION be punishing on your feet. That Moy swing bridge (see p87). all said, those long-distance walk- ing aficionados are right; this is one of the easier trails that Britain has to offer and is well within the capabilities of any reasonably fit person.

Below: Stone shelter and viewpoint above Alltsigh, looking south over Loch Ness.

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12 How long do you need? ______

How long do you need?

If you are staying in the villages along the way, the even spacing of those vil- lages at roughly 10- to 15-mile distances, helps to dictate the rate at which you knock off the miles and thus how Most walkers take six or seven long the whole walk takes. Most days to complete the 79 miles walkers take six or seven days to

INTRODUCTION complete the 79 miles. Unless you are wild camping it is quite hard to find accommodation between the villages so your itinerary really is limited. If you are dead set on completing the Way in as fast a time as you can manage it is possible to double up on some of the sections. Of course, while it can be very satisfying to finish a walk in record time, in doing so you sacrifice the pleasure of seeing things along the way, stopping off at cafés, enjoying the wildlife and the views. If that’s more your thing it may be See pp32-3 for some suggested possible to stretch your walk out itineraries covering different to eight days. The suggested itin- walking speeds eraries on pp32-3 give options both for fast walkers and for those who prefer a more leisurely pace. If you really are just intent on getting it over and done with, you can sign up to the Great Glen Ultra Race (see box p14) which follows the 71 miles from Banavie to Inverness in less than 24 hours. At the time of research the record is held by Mike Raffan who, in 2014, completed the route in a mind-boggling 10 hours 48 minutes and 43 seconds.

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When to go 13 ______

When to go

SEASONS The main walking season in Scotland is from the Easter holiday (March/April) through to October. Balancing all the variables – such as weather, number of other walkers, midges and available accommodation – the best months to The best months to walk the walk the Great Glen Way are June and Great Glen Way are INTRODUCTION September. June and September In the Highlands there is a west–east split in climate. It is generally, though not always, drier in the east while the west gets the full force of Atlantic low- pressure systems and their associated weather fronts. In other words, you are more likely to get wet the closer you are to Fort William. The Inverness area, meanwhile, is one of the driest regions of Scotland. That’s dry in Highland terms! Spring April is unpredictable in terms of the weather. It can be warm and sunny, though blustery days with showers are more typical and snow may often still be lying on the hills. On the plus side, the land is just waking up to spring, there won’t be many other walkers about and you shouldn’t encounter any midges. As far as the weather is concerned, May can be a great time for walking in Scotland; the temperature is warm, the weather is as dry and clear as can be expected, wild flowers are out in their full glory and the midges have yet to reach an intolerable level. However, the Way is exceptionally busy at this time of year and it can be a nightmare finding accommodation if you have not booked in advance. Many B&Bs take bookings in January or earlier for people walking in May. This is not the time to go if you like walking in solitude. You’d be far better off going in June which has all the advantages of May without the crowds. Summer The arrival of hordes of tourists in July and August along with warm, muggy weather brings out the worst in the midges. On many days you’ll be wondering what all the fuss is about; that’s until you encounter a still, overcast evening when you’ll swear never to set foot in the Highlands again. Campers are the ones who should really take note of this (see p55) as everyone else can escape the tor- ture behind closed windows and doors. On some weekends it can feel as if the whole world has arrived in the Highlands; traffic is nose to tail on the roads and many hostels and B&Bs are fully booked days in advance. Surprisingly, there can also be a fair amount of rain in these months.

Opposite: Telford’s Bridge, Invermoriston.

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32 Itineraries ______That said, there is no reason why you shouldn’t walk in the other direction, especially if just tackling a part of the Way. The maps in Part 4 give timings for both directions and, as route-finding instructions are on the maps rather than in blocks of text, it is straightforward using this guide back to front.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES These itineraries (see boxes below and opposite) are suggestions only; adapt them to your needs. They have been divided into different accommodation types and each table has itineraries to encompass different walking paces. Don’t forget to add your travelling time before and after the walk.

CAMPING Relaxed pace Medium pace Fast pace Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles/km miles/km miles/km

0 Fort William Fort William Fort William 1 Gairlochy 11.5/18.5 Gairlochy 11.5/18.5 Glas-dhoire* 23/37 Holiday Park Holiday Park 2 Glas-dhoire* 11.5/18.5 Glas-dhoire* 11.5/18.5 Fort Augustus 15.5/25 3 Leitirfearn* 7.5/12 Leitirfearn* 7.5/12 Drumnadrochit24/39 4 Kytra Lock* 5/8 Inver Coille 14.5/23.5 Inverness 20/31.5 5 Inver Coille 9.5/15 Drumnadrochit 17.5/28 6 Drumnadrochit 17.5/28 Inverness 20/31.5 7 Abriachan 7/11.5 8 Inverness 13/21 * Trailblazer rest site (wild campsite) PLANNING YOUR WALK

STAYING IN HOSTELS Relaxed pace Medium pace Fast pace Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles/km miles/km miles/km

0 Fort William Fort William Fort William 1 Corpach 3/5 Corpach 3/5 Laggan 23.5/38 2 Laggan 20.5/33 Laggan 20.5/33 Invermoriston 22.5/36 3 Invergarry 5/8 Fort Augustus 13/21 Drumnadrochit 14.5/23.5 4 Fort Augustus 9/14.5 Alltsigh 14/22.5 Inverness 20/31.5 5 Invermoriston * 9.5/15 Drumnadrochit 10/16 6 Alltsigh 4.5/7 Inverness 20/31.5 7 Drumnadrochit 10/16 8 Inverness 20/31.5 * No hostel but alternative accommodation available GGW-1 01-03_Prelims Template 19/12/2016 22:35 Page 17

Suggested itineraries; Day and weekend walks 33 ______

STAYING IN B&B-STYLE ACCOMMODATION Relaxed pace Medium pace Fast pace Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles/km miles/km miles/km

0 Fort William Fort William Fort William 1 Banavie 3.5/5.5 Gairlochy 10/16 Laggan 23.5/37.5 2 Gairlochy 6.5/10.5 Laggan 13/20.5 Invermoriston 21.5/34.5 3 Laggan 13/20.5 Fort Augustus 12/19.5 Drumnadrochit 14.5/23.5 4 Fort Augustus 12/19.5 Invermoriston 9.5/15 Inverness 20/31.5 5 Invermoriston 9.5/15 Drumnadrochit 14.5/23.5 6 Drumnadrochit 14.5/23.5 Inverness 20/31.5 7 Inverness 20/31.5

DAY AND WEEKEND WALKS If you don’t have time to walk the whole Way in one shot, there’s nothing stop- ping you from picking off the highlights in just a day or a weekend. The follow- ing suggestions take in some of the best of the Great Glen Way and have good public transport links (see pp44-5) at the start and finish. The weekend walk is also do-able in a day if you are fit and up for a long day. Day walks ● Laggan to Fort Augustus (see pp101-11) An easy low-level (9½- mile/15km) walk following the old railway line by the shore of Loch Oich and

the canal towpath. There are lovely views across the loch, and the stretch of the PLANNING YOUR WALK canal to Fort Augustus is one of the prettiest on its entire length. ● Fort Augustus to Invermoriston high route (see pp116-20) Probably the second most spectacular day; a 9-mile/14.5km walk. After a steep ascent out of Fort Augustus you are rewarded with a wonderful high-level romp across the moors with far-ranging views across Loch Ness and the Great Glen. ● Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit (see pp123-35) This is most people’s highlight section; it is a 14½-mile/23.5km walk. Similar to the previous sugges- tion, it starts with a steep ascent and then follows an undulating route across hill and moor, high above Loch Ness. There is also some beautiful Caledonian pine forest and spectacular views over rugged hills and the full length of Loch Ness. ● Loch Oich circuit (see pp101-9) This combines the two route choices from Laggan to Aberchalder, making a neat 13-mile/21km circuit around Loch Oich. The west side of the loch follows the old railway line through beautiful birch and oak woodland while the Invergarry side follows forestry tracks through conifer plantations but the route here is higher and offers better views across the loch and glen. GGW-1 01-03_PrelimsTemplate19/12/201622:36Page28

PLANNING YOUR WALK 44 Getting to and from the Great Glen WayGlen Great the from and to Getting 44 ______19 915 914 917 916 919 961 o ctihCtln (% Citylink Scottish services Bus driver.the of discretion the at though do, signal. clear a made has passenger intending the and do to so safe is it as long as stops bus May). late to October late (generally months winter the in frequently travelling. before check to essential is it so change tors opera- and services but writing of time the at correct were below details The Notes: M90 G10 17/17A 233371, (Fort WilliamHighlands the in Stagecoach 19/19C 918 WestMotors Coast 500 40 Shiel Buses (% Buses Shiel 47 & 46 44 PUBLIC TRANSPORT SERVICES TRANSPORT PUBLIC At the time of writing Citylink bus services don’t accept dogs but Stagecoach’sbut dogs accept don’t services bus Citylink writing of time the At Drivers are generally happy to pick up passengers at intermediate points between direction. opposite the in frequency same the with operate Services less operate may they however,year-round; operate listed services the of Many Fort William to Inverness via Spean Bridge, Laggan Locks, Laggan swing Laggan Locks, Laggan Bridge, Spean via Inverness WilliamFort to Glasgow to Uig via Fort William, Spean Bridge, Laggan Locks, Laggan Locks, Laggan Bridge, William,Fort Spean via Uig to Glasgow winter) (1/day 4/day William,Fort daily to Glasgow Portree (Skye) to Inverness via , , Shiel Bridge, Shiel Dornie, Lochalsh, of Kyle via Inverness to (Skye) Portree 1/day daily Uig, to above as route Fort William to Inverness via Spean Bridge, Laggan Locks, Laggan swing Laggan Locks, Laggan Bridge, Spean via Inverness WilliamFort to Ullapool to Inverness, Mon-Fri 1/day, Mon-Sat 1/day, Sat 1/day & Sun 2/day Edinburgh to Inverness via Perth, Pitlochry (3/day) & (3/day) AviemorePitlochry Perth, (6/day), via Inverness to Edinburgh Glasgow to Inverness, daily 3/day plus Mon-Fri 2/day Mon-Fri plus 3/day daily Inverness, to Glasgow Inverness to Tomich via Drumnadrochit & , Mon-Sat 3/day Mon-Sat Cannich, & Tomichto Drumnadrochit Inverness via Fort William to Inverness via Spean Bridge, Laggan Locks, Laggan swing Laggan Locks, Laggan Bridge, Spean via Inverness WilliamFort to Oban to Fort William, daily 3/day (note: Citylink tickets are valid) are tickets Citylink (note: 3/day William,Fort daily to Oban 1/day Sun & 4/day,William,Sat Fort Mon-Fri summer to Mallaig Fort Augustus to Drumnadrochit via Invermoriston, Lochside Hostel, Lochside Invermoriston, via Drumnadrochit Fort to Augustus Mon-Sat 2/hr, Sun 1/hr (No 47) (No 1/hr 2/hr,Sun Mon-Sat KinlochleventoFort Williamvia Glencoe Junction, Mon-Sat 1/hr, Sun 2/day : Fort William to Corpach via Inverlochy, Lochyside, Caol & Banavie, & Inverlochy,Caol via Lochyside, Corpach William Fort to Drumnadrochit & Lochend, Mon-Sat 1/day (See also Stagecoach Buses) Stagecoach also (See 1/day Mon-Sat Lochend, & Drumnadrochit Invergarry,Castle, bridge, Urquhart Fort Invermoriston, Augustus, 1/day to Portree (1/day winter) (1/day Portree to 1/day plus 1/day Sconser,daily & Invergarry,Lochalsh bridge, of swing Kyle Lochend, daily 3/day daily Lochend, & Drumnadrochit Castle, Urquhart Hostel, Lochside Invermoriston, Mon-Sat 2/day,1/day Mon-Sat Sun plus 1/day daily Lochend, & Drumnadrochit Castle, Urquhart Hostel, Lochside Fort Invermoriston, (A82), Augustus, Invergarry bridge, daily 9/day daily Drumnadrochit & Lochend, Mon-Sat 3/day plus Sat & Sun 1/day (see also (see 1/day Sun & Sat plus 3/day Mon-Sat Lochend, & Drumnadrochit Invergarry,Castle, bridge, Urquhart Fort Invermoriston, Augustus, Scottish Citylink) Scottish & , Mon-Fri 1/day Mon-Fri Castle, Urquhart & www.stagecoachbus.com) 01967-431272, (% 0871-266 3333, 0871-266 01586 552319, 01586 : www.shielbuses.co.uk) : : www.citylink.co.uk) www.westcoastmotors.co.uk) % 01397 702373, Inverness 702373, 01397 % 01463- GGW-1 01-03_Prelims Template 19/12/2016 22:36 Page 29

Public transport map and table 45 ______

ToTo Ullapool

961 Public Transport Inverness

17 19,19C NOT TO SCALE 17A 917,919

Lochend 19,19C Cannich Drumnadrochit 917,919 17/17A 17/17A 19,19C,40 917,919 TomichTomich Urquhart 19 40,917 Castle 19C 919 Lochside Hostel Invermoriston 40,917 917 919 19,19C ToTo Portree 40,919 915,916 Fort Augustus ToTo Uig 19,19C 919

M90 19,19C Invergarry 915,916,919 19,19C 915,916,919 G10 Laggan Swing Bridge Megabus NX538 Laggan Locks NX588 19,19C 915,916 919

19,19C

915,916 Spean Bridge PLANNING YOUR WALK ToTo Mallaig 919 500 Banavie 46,47,500 To Glasgow Fort William & Edinburgh 918 To To Glencoe To Glasgow and Edinburgh, ToTo Edinburgh Oban To Glasgow but sleeper service only 44 914,915,916 from Fort William ToTo Glasgow

Train services Scotrail (% 0344-811 0141, : www.scotrail.co.uk) ● Glasgow Queen Street to Mallaig via Crianlarich, Roy Bridge, Spean Bridge, Fort William, Banavie, Corpach, Glenfinnan, Arisaig & Morair, Mon-Sat 4/day, Sun 2/day (daily plus 1/day Fort William to Mallaig) ● Glasgow Queen Street to Inverness via Perth, Mon-Sat 5/day, Sun 3/day ● Edinburgh to Inverness via Perth, Mon-Sat 6/day, Sun 3/day ● Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh (for Skye), Mon-Sat 4/day, Sun 2/day ● Inverness to Wick via Thurso, Mon-Sat 4/day, Sun 2/day ● Inverness to Aberdeen, Mon-Sat 11/day, Sun 5/day GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 2

4 ROUTE GUIDE & MAPS

Using this guide

This route guide has been divided according to logical start and stop points. However, these are not intended to be strict daily stages since people walk at different speeds and have different interests. The maps can be used to plan how far to walk each day. The route sum- maries describe the trail between significant places and are written as if walking the path from west to east. To enable you to plan your own itinerary, practical information is presented clearly on the trail maps. This includes walking times for both directions, all places to stay, camp and eat, as well as shops where you can buy supplies. Further service details are given in the text under the entry for each place. For an overview of this information see Itineraries, pp29-34.

TRAIL MAPS Scale and walking times 1 The trail maps are to a scale of 1:20,000 (1cm = 200m; 3 /8 inches = one mile). Walking times are given along the side of each map and the arrow shows the direction to which the time refers. Black trian- gles indicate the points between which the times have been taken. See box below about walking times. The time-bars are a tool and are not there to judge your walking ability. There are so many variables that affect walking speed, from the weather conditions to how many beers you drank the previous evening. After the first hour or two of walking you will be able to see how your speed relates to the timings on the maps. Up or down? Other than when on a track or bridleway the trail is shown as a dot- ted line. An arrow across the trail indicates the slope; two arrows

o Important note – walking times Unless otherwise specified, all times in this book refer only to the time spent walking. You will need to add 20-30% to allow for rests, photog- raphy, checking the map, drinking water etc. When planning the day’s hike count on 5-7 hours’ actual walking. GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 3

Using this guide 75 ______show that it is steep. Note that the arrow points towards the higher part of the trail. If, for example, you are walking from A (at 80m) to B (at 200m) and the trail between the two is short and steep it would be shown thus: A–– –– –– >> –– –– –– B. Reversed arrow heads indicate a downward gradient. Accommodation Apart from in large towns where some selection of places has been necessary, almost everywhere to stay that is within easy reach of the trail is marked. Details of each place are given in the accompanying text. The number and type of rooms is given after each entry: S = Single, T = Twin room, D = Double room, Tr = Triple room and Qd = Quad. Note that most of the triple/quad rooms have a double bed and one/two single beds (or bunk beds); thus for a group of three or four, two people would have to share the double bed, but it also means that the room can be used as a double or twin. See also pp18-20. Rates quoted for B&B-style accommodation are per person (pp) based on two people sharing a room for a one-night stay; rates may well be discounted for longer stays. Where a single room (sgl) is available, the rate for that is quot- ed if different from the rate per person. The rate for single occupancy (sgl occ) of a double/twin may be higher and the per person rate for three/four sharing a triple/quad may be lower. Unless specified, rates are for bed and breakfast. At some places the only option is a room rate; this will be the same whether one or two people (or more if permissible) use the room. In tourist towns, particularly, you can expect to pay extra at weekends (whereas in the few places on this route that cater to busi- ness people the rate is likely to be higher during the week). Note that a few places accept only a two-night stay, particularly at weekends and in the main season. Rooms are either en suite (with a bath or shower in the room, or have pri- ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS vate or shared facilities, often this is a bathroom, or shower room, just outside the bedroom. The text notes if a bath () is available in at least one room for those who prefer a relaxed soak at the end of the day. The text also indicates whether the premises have: wi-fi (WI-FI); if a packed lunch (Ⓛ) can be prepared, subject to prior arrangement (this is not noted for towns/cities where getting food is easy); and if dogs (– see also p50 and pp155-6) are welcome, again subject to prior arrangement, either in at least one room (many places have only one room suitable for dogs), or at campsites. The policy on charging for dogs varies; some places make an additional charge per day or per stay, while others may require a refundable deposit against any potential damage or mess. Other features Other features are marked on the map only when they are pertinent to naviga- tion. To avoid clutter, not all features are marked all the time. GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 4

76 Fort William ______

The route guide

FORT WILLIAM Fort William is frequently derided as being For those who have walked the Way in something of a blot on an otherwise beau- reverse and have just arrived in Fort William, tiful landscape but there have been there are showers (£2) at The Nevis Centre attempts over the years to beautify it. (bookings ☎ 01397-700707,  www.nevis Certainly, the pedestrianised high street centre.co.uk; daily 9am-10pm), behind Mor- and the green in front of the Alexandra risons. It also houses a concert hall and a 10- Hotel are not unpleasant places to hang out. pin bowling alley and plays host to a number Most walkers will be itching to get their of annual events, including Fort William boots on and hit the trail but should you Mountain Festival in February or March feel tempted to indulge in some of the (see p14). perks of civilisation, Fort William has plen- Bicycles can be rented from Nevis ty to keep you occupied. Cycles (see Map 1; ☎ 01397-705555,  If you do have some time here there are www.neviscycles.com; £15-30/day; sur- a few things to see. West Highland Muse- charge of £25 for one-way Great Glen Way um (☎ 01397-702169,  www.westhigh hires), at 4 Lochy Crescent, Inverlochy; see landmuseum.org.uk; Cameron Sq; Apr-Oct also p28. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, July & Aug Sun 10am- While in Fort William you may want 3pm, Jan-Mar & Nov-Dec to 4pm; free) is a to take the opportunity to climb Ben Nevis treasure trove of fascinating artefacts on the (1344m), the highest mountain in Britain. Highlands; it’s well worth a visit. There’s a The peak is a popular goal for thousands of secret portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie, dis- visitors a year and commands an exception- plays about the crofting life and lots of in- al view across the Highlands. The start of formation on Ben Nevis (see pp160-4), in- the path to the summit is just a couple of

ROUTEcluding GUIDE AND MAPS the story of Henry Alexander who miles from the town centre (see pp160-4). drove his Model T Ford to the summit in 1911. Also worth a visit is Lochaber Geopark Services Visitor Centre (☎ 01397-705314,  loch For tourist information Visit Scotland’s abergeopark.org.uk/services/visitor-centre; Fort William iCentre (☎ 01397-701801, summer daily 10am-4pm, winter Mon, Fri &  www.visitscotland.com; Sep & Feb-May Sun 10am-4pm, Tue & Sat 10am-2pm, Wed Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm, to 5pm 10.30am-5pm; free) on High St, Fort William; in May; Jun Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10am- see also box p59. It is staffed by volunteers 5pm; Jul & Aug Mon-Sat 9.30am-6.30pm, so the opening days and hours can vary. Sun 10am- 6pm, Oct-Jan Mon-Sat 9am- By the roundabout on Achintore Rd is 5pm, Sun 10am-3pm) is at 15 High St. The Lime Tree An Ealdhain Gallery (see also staff can also book accommodation (see Where to stay) which exhibits contemporary box p38) and sell bus tickets for Citylink. art; entrance is free and the gallery is open dai- Another source of information is  ly 10am-10pm except November. www.visitfortwilliam.co.uk. Out of town is Ben Nevis Distillery (☎ For a supermarket, at the northern 01397-702476,  www.bennevisdistillery end of the High St there’s a Tesco Metro .com), which has been producing whisky for (Mon-Sat 7am-9pm, Sun 9am-5pm) and nearly 200 years. A tour of the distillery with over by the station a branch of Morrisons a tasting at the end costs £5; a tasting tour in- (Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat 7am-9pm, Sun cluding three malt whiskies is £18. 8am-6pm). GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 5

Fort William 77 ______

Nevis Cycles, 500m; Ben Nevis Distillery, 1 mile 1 & A82 to Inverness North Rd 2 Fort William 3 ToTo Glen Nevis 4

The d R d Nevis r LLoch o c h 5 o lf Centre e LLinnhe i n n h e B

01 Morrisons Bus Remains of station Fort William fort 7 8 and start of 6 Great Glen Way Ellis Brigham Underpass Railway station Nevisport 0 100 200m Library & 9 internet 10 11 Tesco WH Smith & PO VictoriaVictoria Rd Rd £ Metro l AlmaAAl Rd Visit Scotland 17 1212 Fort William iCentre 16 i CPP 1313 Where to stay Mountain 141 1 The Brevins Warehouse Toilett 14 18 Toilet 1155 2 Ben Nevis Guest House Lochaber 3 Tigh na Drochaid i WWeste t HighlandH gh aann d Geopark £ West Highland 4 Nevis Bank Inn MuseumMMuseuseu eumm Visitor 19 £ Museum 5 Premier Inn Centre 20 LloydsLo oyds d 6 Berkeley House 22 21 d PharmacyPhPPharha rmrmacymacya y 7 Guisachan House 23 24 Fassifern Rd 8 Fort William Backpackers

25 Viewfield House ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS 26 9 27 Cameron Rd 11 The Alexandra Hotel 12 St Andrew’s Guesthouse 28 High StSt 13 Constantia House 14 Aldourie 15 Stobahn 29 16 Bank Street Lodge Union Rd Rd Rd Rd 25 Travelodge Fort William Lime Tree 29 Lime Tree An Ealdhain An Ealdhain Art Gallery 30 Myrtle Bank 31 Calluna 30 31 Where to eat and drink Rd 4 Browns Restaurant 22 Aroma d

R 10 Cobbs 23 Hot Roast Rolls ie h c Achintore Rd Lundaura Rd o 16 The Stables 24 Crannog Seafood Restaurant n n o C Restaurant & Grill 25 The Great Glen 17 The Crofter Bar (Wetherspoon) 18 Delicraft 26 Pier Head Takeaway 19 Ben Nevis Bar 27 Spice Tandoori 20 Grog & Gruel 28 Sugar & Spice 21 Indian Garden 29 Lime Tree An Ealdhain

GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 6

78 Fort William ______

There is an ATM in Tesco Metro and On Alma Rd there’s the busy Fort there are several banks (with ATMs) along William Backpackers (☎ 01397-700711, the High St, some chemists, including a  scotlandstophostels.com/fort-william; branch of Lloyds Pharmacy, a post office 38 beds; shared facilities; WI-FI in commu- (Mon-Sat 9am-5.30pm) in WH Smith and a nal areas), a colourful independent hostel. library (Mon & Thur 10am-8pm, Tue & Fri A dorm bed costs £16-19.50pp (£45-47 for 10am-6pm, Wed & Sat 10am-1pm) – the a private twin room) and a continental latter is a good place to while away the breakfast costs £2, or you can just have a hours or surf the internet on a miserable day. few slices of toast for 40p. The rate Another popular activity in the rain is includes bedding and guests can use the gear shopping. Fort William has several kitchen and sitting room during the day. large outdoor equipment shops all open Note that you can’t check-in unless you daily, including Mountain Warehouse on have photographic ID. the High St, Nevisport which also has a café, bar and WI-FI (see Where to eat) and Apartments As long as you are happy to Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports near the stay for a minimum of three nights and station. Up-to-date weather forecasts are accept that a short booking may not be posted at all of them. accepted months in advance, Calluna (☎ 01397-700451,  www.fortwilliamholiday Transport .co.uk; WI-FI; ; Jan-end Oct) has four [See also pp43-6] The railway station, for self-contained apartments sleeping up to services to Mallaig and south to Glasgow 4/6/8 people. Bedding is provided and there (as well as the sleeper service via are full cooking facilities. Rates vary wide- Edinburgh to ), is at the northern ly so look at their website or contact them end of town. The station has left-luggage for the latest. lockers and showers. The bus station is across the road by B&Bs and guest-houses The differ- Morrisons’ supermarket. This is where all ence in price between hostels and some of the bus/coach services depart for routes the cheaper B&Bs/guest-houses is negligi- north up the Great Glen to Inverness ble when you take the cost of breakfast into (Scottish Citylink 19 & 919, Stagecoach account. Some of the nicest places are

ROUTE19/19C), GUIDE AND MAPS north-west to Uig (Scottish located at the top of the road to Glen Nevis. Citylink 915 & 916) and south to Glasgow The Brevins (☎ 01397-701412,  www (Scottish Citylink 914, 915 & 916), as well .thebrevins.co.uk; 1S/1D/5D or T, all en as Shiel Buses’ 500 service to Mallaig and suite; WI-FI) is one of the best places in Fort West Coast Motors’ 918 service to Oban. William. All the rooms are clean and com- More locally Stagecoach’s 46 & 47 servic- fortable. B&B costs from £42.50pp (sgl occ es operate to Corpach. from £45pp). For a taxi there’s Greyhound (☎ Just on from here is the smart Ben 01397-705050) and Lochaber (☎ 01397- Nevis Guest House (☎ 01397-708817,  706070). www.bennevisguesthouse.co.uk; 2D/1T/ 1Tr/2Qd, all en suite; ; WI-FI). There’s a Where to stay nice conservatory to sit in and a drying Hostels Right in the centre is Bank Street room. B&B costs £33-45pp (sgl occ £48- Lodge (☎ 01397-700070,  www.bank 70, three/four sharing £92-142). streetlodge.co.uk; WI-FI) with dorm rooms Next is tidy, comfortable Tigh na (3-7 beds; £15-21pp) which share facilities. Drochaid (☎ 01397-704177,  www.glen They also have some en suite rooms (sgl/sgl nevisbb.co.uk; 1D/1T, both en suite; WI-FI), occ from £27/32, double or twin £47-64, which is excellent value (£30-35pp, sgl occ rooms with 3/4/6 beds £60-78/76-88/120- £35-50) and run by friendly people. 138). Bedding is provided but no meals. On Belford Rd there are several good However, there are full cooking facilities. B&Bs but since this is the main road it GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 7

Fort William 79 ______

could be a little noisy. Berkeley House (☎ On Achinore Rd, Myrtle Bank Guest 01397-701185,  www.berkeleyguest House (☎ 01397-702034,  www.myrtle house.co.uk; 1T/5D/2Tr, all en suite; WI-FI) bankguesthouse.co.uk; 11D/4T, all en suite; has tidy rooms; B&B costs £41-42.50pp WI-FI; Feb-Dec) offers B&B for £25- (sgl occ £70-85, three sharing from £110). 42.50pp (sgl occ rates on request). Alma Rd is a good area as it’s quiet, centrally located and has views overlooking Hotels Right beside the official end of the the town. There’s smart Guisachan House West Highland Way is Travelodge Fort (pronounced Goosh-a-gan; ☎ 01397- William (Fort William ☎ 0871 984 6419, 703797,  www.fortwilliamholidays.co booking line ☎ 0871 984 8484 but £2.50 .uk; 1S private shower facilities, 1S/5T/7D/ booking fee;  www.travelodge.co.uk; 2Tr/1Qd, all en suite, ; WI-FI; mid Jan- 60D, all en suite; WI-FI 30 mins free per Oct), a guest-house where B&B costs £32- 24hrs, £3 for 24hrs), on the High St. Rates 38pp (sgl occ £64-71, three/four sharing depend on demand; if you book early £96-114); and homely and friendly (online) and pay at the time of booking you Viewfield House (☎ 01397-704763,  san may get a room for £39 (Saver rate; non [email protected]; 1S/1Tr pri- refundable) but if not expect to pay £60- vate shower facilities, 2Tr en suite; WI-FI; 130 and even up to £170 in the peak season ; Apr-Oct). B&B rates are from £28pp (the rate is the same whether one or up to (sgl £28, sgl occ £56, three sharing £25pp). three people share). If you want to get an Fassifern Rd is packed with B&Bs, a early start their breakfast box costs £4.95; selection of which follows. Starting at the porridge may be available for £1.95. For a northern end is one of the most interesting full cooked breakfast go to The Great Glen buildings in town, St Andrew’s Guesthouse (see Where to eat) below the Travelodge. (☎ 01397-703038,  www.standrews- The other large hotel chain, Premier guesthouse.co .uk; 3D/1Tr, all en suite, 1T Inn, has a hotel near the railway station: private facilities, 1D/1T share facilities; WI- Premier Inn (☎ 0333-777 7268,  www FI; Mar-Oct), a beautifully turreted stone .premierinn.com; 42D/61D or T, all en house dating back to 1880. B&B costs suite, ; WI-FI). If you book online very far £27.50-37.50pp (sgl occ £48-65, three shar- in advance you may be able to get a room ing £80-95). for as little as £29.50/45 (Saver rate non

Constantia House (☎ 01397-702893, refundable non amendable/Flex rate). ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS  [email protected]; 2S/1T Otherwise, expect to pay around £60-135 share facilities, 2Tr both en suite; WI-FI; for a room; the best rates are always online. Mar-Oct) has nice clean rooms and charges The beds are very comfortable. Breakfast £25-35pp (sgl £30-40, sgl occ £50-60, three (continental buffet/hot buffet £6.99/8.99pp) sharing £90) for B&B, and Aldourie (☎ is available next door at Brewers Fayre 01397-704809; 1S/1D/1T share facilities/ Loch Iall (Mon-Fri 6.30-10.30am, Sat & 1D en suite; WI-FI; Feb-Nov) provides a Sun 7-11am). friendly welcome for walkers; there are On Belford Rd, by the noisy A82, good views over the loch from some of the there’s Nevis Bank Inn (☎ 01397-705721, rooms. B&B costs £25-30pp (sgl occ rates  www.nevisbankinn.co.uk; 5S/2D/14D or on request). Just up from here is Stobahn T/3Qd, all en suite; ; WI-FI; ). B&B (☎ 01397-702790,  www.stobahnguest- starts from £69-92.50pp (sgl/sgl occ from house .co.uk; 1T/2D/1Tr all en suite, 1S/1D £115, three/four sharing rates on request); share facilities; WI-FI; £28-40pp, sgl/sgl occ breakfast is served in Browns restaurant £35/ 45-60), a guest-house with comfort- (see Where to eat). able rooms. The Alexandra Hotel (☎ 01397- Below here on Bank St is Bank Street 702241,  www.strathmorehotels.com/ Lodge (see Hostels) which has some en Alexandra; 7S/78D or T/8Tr, all en suite; suite accommodation but does not provide ; WI-FI;  £5 per dog) is a large old hotel breakfast. in the centre. B&B costs £45-65pp (sgl/sgl GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 44

116 Fort Augustus ______

o Cherry Island crannog A crannog is an ancient dwelling on a loch, often built on stilts over the water or on mounds of stone that formed small artificial islands, with a wooden bridge or cause- way linking it to the shore. The earliest known crannogs are around 5000 years old. Today Cherry Island crannog (see Map 19), in the south-west corner of Loch Ness, appears as a small wooded island, the only island in the loch. It is visible from the A82 main road near The Inch Hotel, outside Fort Augustus, and also through gaps in the trees on points along the Great Glen Way above the hotel. The island would have been a little larger than it appears today since the waters of Loch Ness rose 6ft with the construction of the Caledonian Canal. If you have caught the crannog bug, perhaps, once you have finished the Great Glen Way, a visit to The Crannog Centre ( www.crannog.co.uk) is in order. There, on Loch Tay at Kenmore, in Perthshire, they have reconstructed a complete crannog to how it would have looked 2500 years ago. It is about a 2½-hour drive from the Great Glen.

there is nowhere better to eat than on one of Where to stay; summer daily noon-9.30pm, the tables by the shore. They do burgers rest of year depending on demand). They from £6.95 and paninis from £5.95. have a good range of bar meals such as Fine dining is on offer at The Lovat cheeseburgers for £10.95, lentil & corian- (see Where to stay). Their Station Road der burgers £9.95, and mussels for £13. All restaurant (Easter to Oct Wed-Sat 7-9pm, food is made on site and as much as possi- will sort you out with a five-course meal for ble from local produce. £55pp (if prebooked and prepaid) possibly Mackay’s Bar & Restaurant at with pigeon or Highland beef for the main Cumberlands Campsite (see Where to stay) course. Their Brasserie (daily 7.30-9.30am, does evening meals (weekends Apr-Oct 5- noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm, Fri & Sat to 9pm, daily summer peak season). The 9.30pm) is more affordable and has a more Moorings (Restaurant & Takeaway; ☎ extensive menu that includes cod fillet and 01320-366484; daily summer 11am-10pm,

ROUTEwild GUIDE AND venisonMAPS burger; a 3-course meal here winter to 9pm) is a good spot for tradition- costs £29.50pp if prebooked/paid. al fish & chips, as is the Canalside Chip Even more affordable is the food on Shop (☎ 01320-366456; daily noon-8pm). offer at Richmond House Hotel (see

FORT AUGUSTUS TO INVERMORISTON [MAPS 19-23] The Great Glen Way really comes into its own north of Fort Augustus but only if you aim high! There is a high route and a low route between Fort Augustus

and Invermoriston. Take the 9½-mile (15km; 2½hrs-3hrs 40mins) high route! Yes, it will make your calf muscles ache a bit more but you will spend

the day high up on the open hill enjoying magnificent views across Loch Ness and the mountains to the north. By contrast the low route is a monotonous trudge through yet more commercial forestry plantations; it is, though, the same distance: 9½ miles (15km; 2hrs 35mins-3hrs 40mins). Both routes out of Fort Augustus begin by following the back road past Morag’s Lodge. Don’t be tempted by the more direct main road as a shortcut. It’s fast, dangerous and there is no pavement/sidewalk. Leave the back road, just GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 45

Map 20, Loch Ness 117 ______22) AP TONE SHELTER (M S AMPSITE C MINS MINS OILLE C 25–35 20–30 NVER I FROM / MINS TO 55–85 OCKS TO SIT ON R IGH OUTE H R OW OUTE L R ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS RAICHE CAR PARK C LLT NA A

before the road bridge, and follow a narrow trail steeply up through a stand of enormous trees that make you feel quite small. A level path then leads to a viewpoint where you can supposedly see Cherry Island crannog (see box opposite) down on the loch, although I strug- gled to spot it when I was there, perhaps because of encroaching vegetation blocking the view. Just beyond this, it’s decision time. Will you take the high road or the low road? For the latter see the route description on p118. As I’ve already said, the high route is hands-down the best choice.

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118 Fort Augustus to Invermoriston ______20) AP 20) (M AP 22) 22) (M AP AP (M (M BENCH AMPSITE RICHE CAR PARK & C C OILLE LLT NA C FROM STONE SHELTER / A TO BIG ROCK NVER / I FROM / MINS TO TO / FROM MINS TO FROM 20–30 55–85 IGH OUTE H R OW OUTE L R

ROUTEHigh GUIDE AND MAPS route from Fort Augustus to junction of routes From the junction, the high route climbs steadily through the forestry, follow- ing tight zigzags past a waterfall and finally emerging onto the open hill. Finally, the views over Loch Ness begin to open up. It’s a liberating feeling hav- ing been confined to the depths of the glen for much of the first half of the Way. The path constructors have left some large rocks (Map 20) by the trail; these are perfect for sitting on and getting your breath back after the climb up from Fort Augustus. The going is comparatively easy now, as the trail winds its way towards the high point of the route. Here there is a rudimentary stone shelter. Don’t get excited: it has no roof and is nothing more than a low circular wall, offering shelter from the prevailing wind. The next couple of miles continue in the same vein, across open moorland, punctuated by lone birch and pine trees. Look out for golden plover and wheatear. The pretty, wee gorge is a good spot for a lunch stop. There is another opportunity for a sit down at a bench by a big rock (Map 22). This is the last view on this section. After this it’s a knee-shattering descent down through the thick spruce forest. GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 47

Map 22, Loch Ness 119 ______UNCTION OF ROUTES UNCTION OF ROUTES J J MINS MINS 15–25 25–40 MINS BENCH & 30–40 IG ROCK B OW OUTE L R IGH OUTE H ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS R AMPSITE C OILLE C NVER I GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:27 Page 48

120 Fort Augustus to Invermoriston ______Low route from Fort Augustus to junction of routes This follows the high route as described on p118, as far as the path junction. From that point it’s a fairly level walk through the forest on a broad track. This is a much less inspiring walk than the high route but there are moments of interest. Notably, about a mile past the Allt na Criche car park the way pass- es beneath the tallest trees you will encounter on the walk. And these are sig- nificant trees: they were planted by Lord Lovat, the founder, some say ‘the father’, of the Forestry Commission (see box p62). Indeed, this is the first land owned by the Forestry Commission in Scotland. Continuing on, the track switches this way and that through the plantation. There are some large areas of clear-fell where the views open up across the loch. Look out for the famous Horseshoe Crag on the opposite side of the loch; a natural feature of scree and stone. Campers will find a few pitches at Inver Coille Campsite (see p122 and Map 22); a sign points the way down a path that strikes off downhill from the Way. Beyond this, there is little of great interest and after mile after mile of forest track you eventually join up with the high route (see below) for the final stretch into Invermoriston. Junction of routes to Invermoriston At the foot of the path the high route meets the low route and the trail follows an old stone dyke, running parallel to a forestry track. Irritatingly, the route goes further and further away from the destination of Invermoriston which lies a hop and a skip away across some fields. Eventually the path joins a broader track which doubles back and continues in the right direction, all the way to the beautiful old stone bridge (known as Telford’s Bridge) at Invermoriston.

INVERMORISTON [see map p122] This little hamlet sits by the banks of the Services tumbling waters of the River Moriston. The hamlet boasts the friendly, independent Glenmoriston Stores (☎ 01320-351212;

ROUTETelford’s GUIDE AND MAPS Bridge (see box below) dates back to 1813 and is well worth a look, as is Mon-Fri 6am-6pm, Sat 6am-1pm, Sun the waterfall, best viewed from the sum- 7.30am-1pm) selling the essentials. There merhouse, a short detour downstream. are public toilets in the village hall. Next to the main road, near the bridge The bus stop is by the village hall, for is St Columba’s Well, an unassuming pool Scottish Citylink’s 19 & 919 and of water set within a stone square. The Stagecoach’s 19/19C & 40 bus services. water is said to have been blessed by St For Scottish Citylink’s 917 bus to Skye wait Columba in the 6th century AD and legend outside The Glenmoriston Arms Hotel. For has it that it is the source of Loch Ness. further service details see box p44.

o Telford’s Bridge (also known as Invermoriston Old Bridge) The pretty stone bridge at Invermoriston was designed by Thomas Telford, he of Caledonian Canal fame (see box p84), as part of a drive to improve transport links in the Highlands. Constructed between 1805 and 1813, it is a twin-arched stone bridge, utilising a natural rock, in the centre of the river, as a pier. It has stood the test of time very well, although some stone is missing from the walls, and was used by traffic until the 1930s when it was usurped by the new and current road bridge. GGW-1 04_Layout 1 19/12/2016 22:28 Page 49

Map 23, Invermoriston 121 ______22) 22) AP AP 24) (M 24) (M AP AP (M (M MINS TO VIEWCATCHER MINS FROM VIEWCATCHER MINS TO JUNCTION OF ROUTES MINS FROM JUNCTION OF ROUTES 55–75 40–60 25–35 20–30 RIDGE RIDGE B B NVERMORISTON NVERMORISTON I I ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS GGW-1 Colour maps-Q8_Prelims Template 21/12/16 4:32 PM Page 6

A862

A833 Beauly Kirkhill A831 Tychat A862 MAP 29 B9164 INVERNESS Loch MAP 30 Meiklie Drumnadrochit A831 Leachkin Strone Kilmorack MAP 28 Loch Ness A833 B8082 0123 45km A82 Caledonian 021 3 miles Kiltarlity Canal Bunloit B852 River MAP 27 Blackfold Ness B861 Balbeg Grotaig

B862 MAP 26 Errogie Loch a Chrathaich A82 MAP 25 Loch B862 Ness Loch Dores MAP 24 Wester Laide Alltsigh Aberchalder Loch Abriachan Old Mhor Forest Invermoriston route Loch Kemp Garthbeg

MAP 23 A833 Tychat B852 Whitebridge Loch Knockie Drumnadrochit B862 Strone B862 B851 MAP 22

400m 400m Abriachan Forest Blackfold 300 300

200 Invermoriston 200 Old route Grotaig Drumnadrochit 100 100 Tychat Leachkin Alltsigh Drumnadrochit Inverness 0 miles 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 0 miles 234 5678910 11 12 13 14 1516 17 18 19

Inverness Maps 23-29, Invermoriston Drumnadrochit to Drumnadrochit Invermoriston 14½ miles/23.5km – 4hrs 35mins-6¾hrs Via old route 15¼ miles/24.5km – 4hrs 55mins-7hrs 5mins Fort William

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0123 45km

A862 021 3 miles A833 Beauly Kirkhill A831 Tychat A862 B9164 INVERNESS Drumnadrochit A831 Leachkin Strone Kilmorack

Loch MAP 37 Ness MAP 35 A833 MAP 36 B8082 A82 Caledonian Kiltarlity Canal Bunloit B852 Blackfold B861 MAP 33 Balbeg MAP 34 Grotaig Inverfarigaig

B862

Errogie MAP 32

A82 Foyers Loch B862 Ness Loch Loch Laide Dores Ashie Alltsigh MAP 31 Achnaconeran Abriachan Forest Old Loch Invermoriston route Ness Garthbeg MAP 30 Loch A833 Duntelchaig TTychatychat B852 Whitebridge MAP 29 Drumnadrochit B862 Strone B862 B851

400m 400m Abriachan Forest Blackfold 300 300

200 Invermoriston 200 Old route Grotaig Drumnadrochit 100 100 Tychat Leachkin Alltsigh Drumnadrochit Inverness 0 miles 234 5678910 11 12 13 14 0 miles 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Inverness Maps 29-37 Drumnadrochit Drumnadrochit to Inverness 20 miles/32.5km – 6¼hrs-8hrs 40mins NOTE: Add 20-30% to these times to allow for stops Fort William

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Dingwall

Map 1 – p83 Fort William Map 27 – p129 Grotaig Maryburgh A832 Map 2 – p85 Caol Map 28 – p130 Bunloit Conor Munlochy Map 3 – p88 Shengain Aqueduct Map 29 – p131 Drumnadrochit Bridge Map 4 – p89 Glen Loy Aqueduct Map 30 – p137 Temple Pier Moray Map 5 – p90 Moy Swing Bridge Map 31 – p138 Abriachan Forest Muir of Ord Map 6 – p91 Gairlochy Map 32 – p139 Loch Laide Beauly FINISH Map 7 – p95 Bunarkaig Map 33 – p140 Balnagriasehin Beauly Map 8 – p96 Clunes Map 34 – p141 Blackfold Firth Map 9 – p97 Loch Lochy Map 35 – p142 Old Drovers’ Road Inverness Map 10 – p98 Loch Lochy Map 36 – p143 Leachkin Kirkhill Leachkin 37 36 Map 11 – p99 Glas-dhoire Map 37 – p145 Inverness 35 (Trailblazer rest site) 34 33 B861 Map 12 – p100 Kilfinnan 33 Blackfold 833 A833A8 Map 13 – p103 Laggan Balnagriasehin Map 14 – p104 Old Invergarry 32 331 8831 Railway A83A8A 1 LochLoochoch LaideLa Map 14a – p107 Invergarry 31 Map 15 – p108 Leitirfearn CannichCanCCannaannnnichchch AbriachanAbriachaachan ForestFoor Ness Loch Map 16 – p109 Aberchalder 29 30 Duntelchaig Map 17 – p110 Kytra Loch DrumnadrochitDrumnadroDrumDrumummnadrnnadaddrocochchith t Tychat Map 18 – p111 River Oich Map 19 – p113 Fort Augustus BunloitBunlB oito t Loch 282 B851 Map 20 – p117 Loch Ness B852 GrotaigGrotGGroroottaaigg Map 21 – p118 Loch Ness 227 Map 22 – p119 Loch Ness LonLonon nanaF FFoFolaoolaa Map 23 – p121 Invermoriston 25 2626 Map 24 – p125 Allt Sigh Burn 24 Map 25 – p126 Alltsigh AlltsighAAlltlltsits ghgh Map 26 – p127 Lon na Fola Invermoristonnnvvevvermorermorrmorir stttotonon 2323 2222 GREAT GLEN WWAY 21 A87 20 A887 19 Loch 18 Fort Augustus Cluanie 17 Kytra Lock A87 Aberchalder Loch 16 0 5 10 20km Loyne 14a 15 0 5 10 miles Loch Invergarry Leitirfearn Garry 13 14 Old Invergarry Laggan 12 Railway A9 11 Kilfinnan Laggan Loch 10 Arkaig 9 Loch Lochy Clunes 8 Achnacarry 7

A82 A86 6 Loch A889 Laggan 5 Glenloy 4 Gairlochy Aqueduct Roybridge 3 Spean A8A83030 Shengain Bridge 2 Aqueduct Loch Lochyside Ericht 1 START A861 FFort William Loch A9 Treig Ben Nevis A82 1344m

WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Loch Blackwater Leven Reservoir Great Glen Way

Glencoe

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