I. MILITARY ROADS AND FORTIFICATIONS IN THE HIGHLANDS, WITH BRIDGE MILESTONESD SAN THOMAY B . S WALLACE, F.S.A. SCOT. Nothing contributed peace mor prosperitth d o ean t Highe th f y-o lands tha roade nth s that were constructe Generay db ls Wadhi d ean successors ways,d "e ol Th ". accordin Burto gt , consiste stonf o d y moors, bogs, rugged, rapid fords, declivities of hills, entangling woods, giddd an y precipices. Although Wad responsibls ewa comparaa r efo - tively small portion of the work, yet he was undoubtedly the originator scheme oth f e whic completes h wa s successorshi y db . These roads, which followed pretty much the old tracks (which have been continued railways)e th y b , were commence dn 172i carried 5an tiln o dl 1814. widte firse thes th a Th tfeetf 6 yhd o road1 weran s , militarr swa e fo y purposes they proceede straighs a dn i lina t possibles ea shorteo t , e nth journey. On account of the peculiar circumstances which followed the Dis- arming Act after 1715, and after representations made by Lord Lovat and others, General Wad commandes ewa Georgy db proceeo t . eI do t the Highlands in 1724 and report upon the state of affairs as he found them, and to suggest remedies for the same. A copy of his instructions will be found in the Record Office, vol. xiv. p. 60. Among other things keeo t roade s pth goon wa si e dh repair communicating betweee nth barracks already established, and to build a galley to be employed in conveying troops, etc. Locn ,o h Ness. Wade's report wil foune b l s a d appendin a Jamieson'o xt s editio Burt'f no s Letters. MILITARY EOADS AND FORTIFICATIONS IN THE HIGHLANDS. 319

Wade arrived at Inverness in 1724, August 10th, and on the 27th Octobe same th f eo r yea reportee rh madd thaha ee h tprogres s with the roads, and that the vessel for navigation on Loch Ness would be finished in a fortnight after that date. The " Highland galley," as it was called, was 25 to 30 tons burden, and was to cost not more than £400. This vesse buils t Inverneswa la t carried san d overlan Loco dt h Ness unde directioe rth f Captaino n Pestle, captai Satisfaction,e th f no by some of his seamen, and almost all the soldiers and officers of Colonel Fitch's regiment. We have already stated that there wer e Highlandroado th en n si s before General Wade's time glimpsA tracke . th t ea s usually followed e Highlanderth y b s when moving from plac placo et e will more than justify this statement. During the rising in 1653 under Glencairn, when General Monk marched from Kintail to Inverness by Glen Strath Farrar, he said : nearlr fo y y fivwa e boggeo "s mile Th s y wa s thabaggag 0 10 t e horses were left behind, and many other horses bogged or tired." " Never any horsemen, much less an army, were observed to march that way before." When Dundee left Invernes n 1689i s e sayh , s thas horsehi t s scrambled over pathless mountains, white with perpetual frosts Gleno t , - garry Castle, whic surroundes hwa gloomy db y marshes returs hi n nO . journey from e mooPertth Eannocf troops o o rht hi d sle saie hh e dh through mountains, forcing his way by plain and cliff, by sweltering bog and gully, and that many of the wearied horses sunk in the marshes werd an e furthee lostH . r notes tha reachee th d Loch Trei streay gb m and mars quakind han g bog foresty b , s blocked with uprooted trees, by precipices and mountain heights. Nothing could better sho roade state wth th f seo tha followine nth g descriptio Lory nb d Lova journea f " t5 o " e o4 fyth fro "e Airmth d " soute th Slochmuic y o hb t Drumouchdad kan r :— " I brought my wheelwright with me as far as Aviemore in case of 320 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAECH 13, 1911.

accidents therd an , eI parte d witbecausm hhi declaree eh d thay m t chariot woul safo dg e t eighenougno s t Londonmileo hwa t I st bu , fro place mth e plaie wheth n n o roa axle-tree d th hin e th d f ewheeo l broke in two, so that my girls were forced to go on bare horses behind obliges footmenwa ridI o dt d e an myself, camI . e with that equipago et Ruthven late at night, and my chariot was pulled there by force of men, wheelwrigha wher t go eI smitha wroughd o tan ,wh day o ttw s mending my chariot, and after paying very dear for their work and for my quarters two nights, I was not gone four miles from Ruthven when t broki miserabla e n againi s thao wa s e, I tconditio n til camI l o et Dalnacardach hile Drummonf th o l t A . fore dth e axle gave wayd an , again smit callee wrightd b han o assistance. o t d cartt d d san sha " The following are a few notes on the roads constructed by Wade and his successors. Road from Perth o Inverness.t —This road proceede y Sconeb d , Murtly, Dunkeld, Dalguise, Blair of Athol, Struan, Dalwhinnie, Kin- gussie, Aviemore, Carrbridge; crosse e Dulna th da bridg y b t na e Sluggan,1—from here to Slochmuick by Torbreck. The Findhorn was crossed by a bridge at Raigbeg, which was carried away by the " Moray floods " 1759. From here roath e d continue y Dalmagerrib d o t e MoAultnaslanachd yan , throug pase h th Mof so y (Starsach-nan-G-ael), crosse Naire dth t Failiena entered ,an d Invernes whay sb knows i t s na " Edinburgh Road." This constructeroas wa d d between 172d 5an 1733. 172n I 8 Wade reporte follows da s :— wit w l possiblhal no m a e " I diligenc roaw e dne carryin e th n go between Dunkel Invernessd dan f abouo , Englis0 8 t h measured miles lengthn i wor a los e thad n essentiab o i tktims o an y , s n t hi ema o t l Majesty's service I have employed 300 men in different parts of the roa ddone b tha wore y e th tdurin kma favourable gth e seasoe th f no year." (Inverness Field Club Trans., vol. v. p. 157.) 1 See the illustration, p. 326. MILITARY ROADS AND FORTIFICATIONS IN THE HIGHLANDS. 321

In 1729 Wade was at Dalnacardach, and in September of that same year lie rode over this road as far as Inverness. Road from Perth Forto t George.—This road extended from Perto ht Blairgowrie, Spittal of Glen Shee, to Braemar, down the Dee to Balmoral, Bridg f Gairneo , Cock Bridge, Corgarfi Castle, Tomintoul,

Fig. 1. Record Stone near Tomintoul. Grantown, Dava, Dulsie Bridge, Calder (Cawdor), Croy, Balsparden, Campbelltown, Fort George. In 1757 mention is made of bridges on this road, and of painting figurind an e milestones gth thesf o o e milestoneTw . stile sar l stand- s aboui e 5 mileinton g: s from Tomintoul e roath dn o ove, e th r Lecht Hill to Donside, of which an illustration is given in fig. 1. It VOL. XLV. 21 2 32 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE TH F O S , MARC , 191113 H .

measure fixew incheinche4 0 dno s3 inches 2 4 s int i y e y sb sd b o th an , walroadsida f o l e well beard an ,e followin sth g inscription :—

A.-D. 1754. Five Companies Regimen3 3 e th t Right Honbl Lord ChaColoney Ha s l made this road from here to the Spey.

The other stands at the east end of the bridge over the Spey at Grantown. It is in a mutilated condition, and bears the following inscription :— A.-D. 1754. Five Companies 33 Regiment Honourable Lord Charles Hay Colonel Finished.

As this road was completed shortly after 1757, and as Fort George (at Campbelltown) was not completed till about 1763, it is evident that the road was made before the fort was ready for occupation. As Wade died in 1748, this road must have been completed by his successor mentioy ma I n. here that ther s anothei e r milestont a e Dalnacardach, but I have not been able to find out the inscription. Road between Inverness and Fort William.—In 1725 Wade reported kine th madd g o t ha tha ee h tgoo d progress wit roae hth d between Kilhuimen (Fort Augustus) and Fort William. In 1726 he com- d extendepletean o Inverness t t i d t i d n 172I reportee . h 7 o t d Lord Townshend tha t greae "th t military road throug e centrhth e Highlandse oth f , extending from Fort Willia Invernessmo t mile0 5 , s in length, is now about finished, and made practicable for the march of troops, cannon r wheeleo , e continuedb carriagesy ma o t dd an , MILITARY EOADS AND FORTIFICATIONS IN THE HIGHLANDS. 323

Perth at a very moderate expense by the regiments quartered in those parts." The road from Fort Augustus to Inverness was on the east side of Loch Ness passed an , d through Stratherric Foyersd kan . Road from Fort George Failieo t Bridge.—After Wade completed his roads, it was necessary to keep them in repair, and for this purpose Major Caulfiel s appointedwa d , wit n allowanca h f £500eo . During his time some additional roads were madef o thid e an ,s on roas dwa them. This road extended from Fort George, through Petty, past Cradle- Muckoviehald an l joi o ,t roae nth d already described from Inverness to Failie Bridge. Caulfiel headquarters hi d ha d t Cradlehallsa , near Inverness, where soldierse th ' barrack stile sar l standing. In 1755 Caulfield had repaired nearly all the old roads and erected some small bridges. Road from Aberdeen Inverness.o t —This roa d frodle m Aberdeen, by Old Meldrum and Turrifi, to Banff, and thence along the south shore of the Moray Firth, by Cullen, Fochabers, Elgin, Forres, and Nairn Invernesso t , . In 1798 there were no bridges on the Spey at Fochabers, on the Findhor Naire t th Forresn a t Nairnn na o r o , . n 1784I , accordin Loro gt d Cockbur s " hi Memorials, n i n " when Hope and Braxfield were on a North circuit, because of the Findhorn being in flood at Forres, they were obliged to go up its banks about 28 miles, to the bridge at Dulsie, before they could cross. At this time there were no bridges on the rivers north of Inverness, although roads were projected and partly made to the Pentland Firth. Road from Fort Augustus Bernerao t Olenelg.—n i Thise b roay dma looked upocontinuatioa s na e roath df no fro m Dalwhinni Foro et t Augustus. It went by Cluny, down Glenshiel, and crossed the Mam 324 PROCEEDING E SOCIETYTH F O S , MARC , 191113 H .

Rattacha o Bernerant , wher e ruin th ef extensiv o s e barracks still e milestoneth f o stand o thin o sTw s . road have already appeared Society'e th n i s Proceedings, vol .here xxxii.ar e d repeatedan , . No. 1 (fig. 2) still stands on an old road in Glenshiel, about 2 miles from Shiel innt bearI inscriptio.e th s n " XXIV Reg. ended.t I " measures 2 feet 6 inches high, breadth at the top 14 inches, at the

Fig. 2. Record Stone on one of General Fig . Recor3 . d Ston shorn eo e Wade's road Glenshieln si . of Loch Duich.

middle 16bottoe J th inche inches4 t inchesa s 2 m i 2 d d s an ,thick an , . No. 2 (fig. 3) is unfortunately not in its original position, but lies in front of the house, in the wall of which it was discovered some years e shoreth ago n f Loco s,o h Duich, abou mile2 t s from Shiel inns It . dimension (thoug1 . e similaar No s h o t reproducer a slightl n o d y larger scale in the illustration), and the inscription runs—" The IV r King'o n RoyaOw s l Reg. mad 9 (yard24 e sf Roao ?) d Ea[st] 1771." MILITARY ROADS AND FORTIFICATIONS IN THE HIGHLANDS. 325

Road between Ruthven d Fortan Augustus.—This road went over Corryarrick, and was begun in 1731 and finished shortly afterwards. Ther sligha s ei t differenc opiniof o e n abou positioe th teastere th f no n portion of this road. Burt takes it off the main road at Dalwhinnie. Wildey's road map shows a cross road from Ruthven to a place called " Catcleuch " or " Cross-in-hand," on the way to Corryarrick, in the direct line from Ruthven to Port Augustus inn. It is not at all unlikely that Wade took this shorter road. There were exceptional difficulties on this road, on which 500 men were employed. Road from Stirling to Crieff.—In 1729 a road from Dalnacardach o Crieft s projectedwa f e militarTh . y milestone sout f Garro h y Bridge bears the date 1729, but the rest of the inscription is now illegible. n 1742I spens , £941 wa repairinn i . t 2s , e roagth d from Stirlino gt Crieff, accordin Burto gt . This road originally connected Crieff with Aberfeldy, and thence with Dalnacardach. Whether originally one of Wade's roads, it ultimately was regarded as part of the scheme. The inscription above the door of the house of Dalnacardach reads s follows:a — Hospitiuc mHo Publicun I m Commodum Qeorgiua III. Eex. Construi lussit A.D. 1774. Eest a little while. Gabhaif fois car tinwill Bhig.

E BRIDGESTH .

orden I o makt r e roadeth s serviceable s necessarwa t i , y thae h t should construct bridges. In connection with the system forty bridges were built on 250 miles of road. 1732n I , £60 provides 0wa builo dt bridgda t Weem a y e Ta ove, e th r 326 PBOCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MARCH 13, 1911. and £150 for one over the Faragaig near Foyers, and £55 for another at Aberhalder. The bridge ove Tae t th rAberfeldy a largese th s e tth ywa oned an , only one over the Tay. It consisted of five arches, the middle one being 50 feet span. The foundation-stone was laid on 23rd April 1733, and it was finished the same year. It bears two inscriptions,

Fig. 4. General Wade's Bridge at Sluggan, 1902.

one othen Englis i et th onl n Latin i no d re Lati ye an hTh on n. commemorates Wade's connection with this bridge t wite bu ,th h whole syste f road-makinmo e Highlandsth n gi . Ther bridgee ear s e oveTumme e Garrth th rd f singlyan o l e spans of 50 feet. t George'S s Bridge ove e Speth rt Garvamorya spano tw f o s eha 40 feet each. In 1736 the " High Bridge " over the Spean was built. There is an inscription on this bridge by Wade. MILITARY ROAD FORTIFICATIOND AN S E HIGHLANDSTH N I S 7 32 .

e chieTh f. objec f theso t eo keet road s p wa sope n communication between the south and the barracks at Fort William, Fort Augustus, Bernera, Euthven, and Inverness. In order to keep the roads clear o establist thed ha y h camp e principas th alon n e routei gth d l an s passes. In 1725 companies of soldiers were established in Stratherrick and

Fig . Ruin5 . Stratherrickn si .

in the passes north and south of Inverness to report all robberies and depredation e clanse ruinth Th f somy o s. b f sthes o e e sitee ar s to be seen now in Stratherrick. One of them, of which No. 5 is an illustration, will be found in the birch wood opposite the Catholic Chapel. The. remains consist of foundations of'square, oblong, and circular forms. They show some curious combinations. Two square conjoineoblone e ar on e d gon an d withou appareny tan t communication 8 32 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE TH F O S , MARC , 1911H13 .

between them. The largest circle and the largest square are conjoined. Several of the surroundee mar ditchesy db , evidently wit intentioe hth n of keeping the interior dry. Each of them has a path over the ditch, as showillustratione th n ni . Note.—I may mention here that I have just visited a place near Whitebridge in the same locality, where an area of close on 60 acres is completely covered with foundations of buildings, of which I hope reporo t difficuls whay i t sa I t tlate o t . thet on r y represent. They appear to be too extensive for sheilings, and too substantial for the remain temporara f so y military encampment. The more yar e likely remaine th croftee a b f o so t r township.

E FORTSTH . We will now note one or two of the Forts or Castles that were used in connection wit roade militarhd th san y operations. Kuthven Castle n Badenoc i e e Cumins th th a sea f n s o I t wa h. latte fourteente r th hal f o f he chie th centur s fe Wol seath wa f ft yo ti of Badenoch. Queen Mary is said, to have frequently visited it to enjoy the pleasures of the chase in the extensive forests. In 1415 it was seized Johny b , broke Eard rebellion i f Rossha t o lo nou wh , n against James II. It was possessed also by the Earls of Huntly and the Dukes of Gordon helo dwh , swa n Badenocyi r foufo h r hundred years. Previous to the battle that was fought between Argyle and Huntly in 1594 at Glenlivat, Argyle laid siege to Ruthven Castle. It was purchased by the Government and converted into a castle for1718e n i tTh isolatestoon .a n do d knoll, surrounde extensivy db e marshy heighfeetlandmoune e 0 2 th Th s ,f .o antd aree wa dth n ao aboup yard0 to e 12 t th s lon y 60b g broad doublA . e iron gatd ean a portcullis guarded an arched entry in the south wall. Two towers flanked the north end of the court. Shaw says that he saw this fort entire. MILITAEY EOADS AND FORTIFICATIONS IN THE HIGHLANDS. 329

A barracks (fig. 6) was constructed on, the site of this old castle in moune 1781Th .supposes di peopld artificiale b ol o e dt n ei Th . Shaw's time said that in sinking the well within the barracks planks of wood were found laid across each othe t equaa r l distances from near the surface to the base. It is quite possible that this mound may haye been built over an old crannog.

Fig . Ruin6 . s of Ruthven Barracks. rebele Th t thisse s forfirn o n 1746ti e , afte a siegr f threeo e days by General Gordon of Glenbucket with 300 men and some cannon. The walls still remain, as the illustration will show. The last inciden n connectioi t n with this aftes forwa rt Culloden, when 400 r 500n assemble0o 0me d unde e Dukth r f Atholo e , Lord George Murray, the Duke of Perth, Lord John Drummond, Lord Ogilvie, and others, to invite the Prince to meet them and lead them. • As the Prince did not respond, the chiefs burned the castle and took leave of each other, and sought their own safety. 330 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE TH P O S , MARCH 13/1911.

Corgarff Castle (fig. 7) was a military station on the road from Fort George (Campbelltown), 21 miles from Castletown of Braemar. It was originall a ycastellate d house, whic s appropriatedwa h , and, after additions had been made to it, was converted into a fortress, and garrisoned by the Government to keep the rebellious Highlanders in subjection. The Earls of Mar had anciently a hunting seat here, which was burneGordone th y db 1571n si .

Fig . Corgarf7 . f Castle.

Fort William.—Originally this fort was built by Cromwell, at Monk's suggestion calles wa 1653 n di ,d than , e " Garriso Inverlochy,f no d "an was calculated to hold 2000 men. The ramparts were of earth, en- closed by turf walls. It was rebuilt in 1690 on a smaller scale, but of stone and lime, by General Macka f Scourieyo called an , d Fort William afte kinge th r . A local historian describe follows a t si s :— " The fort contained a bomb-proof magazine and three blocks of houses fitte o accommodatt d 0 men fourt10 A e . h bloc s usekwa d as a store. It was defended on the land side by a ditch, glacis, and ravelin, and on the west side by ramparts faced with stone, upon MILITAEY EOADS AND FORTIFICATIONS IN THE HIGHLANDS. 329

A barracks (fig. 6) was constructed on, the site of this old castle in 1781 moune Th . supposes di peopld artificiale b ol e o dt n ei Th . Shaw's time said tha sinkinn i t wele gth l withi barracke nth s planks of wood were found laid across each other at equal distances from nea surfac e basee th r th o .et It is quite possible that this mound may haye been built over an old crannog.

Fig. Ruin6 . s of Ruthven Barracks.

The rebel t thisse s forfir n n o 1746ti e , afte a siegr f threeo e days by General Gordon of Glenbucket with 300 men and some cannon. The walls still remain, as the illustration will show. lase Th t inciden n connectioi t n with this aftes forwa rt Culloden, when 400 r 500assemblen 0o 0me d unde e Dukth r f Atholo e , Lord George Murray e Dukth ,f Pertho e , Lord John Drurnmond, Lord Ogilvie othersd an , invito t , Prince eth meeo et t the lead man d them. t responde Princno th s d A echiefe di •th , s burne castle d th too d ean k leave of each other, and sought their own safety. 330 PROCEEDING E SOCIETYTH F O S , MARC , "191113 H .

Gorgarff Castle (fig. 7) was a military station on the road from Fort George (Campbelltown) mile1 2 , s from Castletow Braemarf ns o wa t I . originally a castellated house, which was appropriated, and, after addition beed s converteha snwa , madit do t e int oa fortress d an , garrisoned by the Government to keep the rebellious Highlanders in subjection. The Earls of Mar had anciently a hunting seat here, which was burned by the Gordons in 1571.

Fig. 7. Corgarfi Castle.

Fort William.—Originally this fort was built by Cromwell, at Monk's suggestion calles "e 1653wa n Garrisod,i th d an , Inverlochy,f no d "an was calculate o holdt d 2000 menramparte Th . s wer f eartho e - en , close tury db f walls. rebuils wa 169n t smallei a I t n 0o rf stonscale o lime d t ey an bu ,b , General Macka f Scourieyo called an , d Fort William afte e kingth r . A local historian describe follows a t si s :— " The fort contained a bomb-proof magazine and three blocks of houses fitte o accommodatt d 0 men 10 fourteA . h bloc s usekwa d as a store. It was defended on the land side by a ditch, glacis, and ravelin, and on the west side by ramparts faced with stone, upon MILITARY ROAD FORTIFICATIOND AN S E HIGHLANDSTH N I S 1 33 .

which were mounted fifteen twelve-pounder guns. The fort was entered by a bridge across the ditch, consisting of four or five arches, d sentriean s were place t varioua d s parts upon this bridgee Th . guard-hous immediatels ewa y insid forte eth . Adjoinin t weri g e eth officers' quarters, and in the opposite block of buildings was the general's house. The other buildings were occupied by the men. e forte th bac th f , o kt toward A e riveth s re sallyth Nevis s - wa , port." " During the rebellion of 1715 an attempt was made to take the fort on behalf of the Old Pretender, but it was not successful." besieges "Iwa t e followern 174di th y 6 b f Princo s e Charliet I . was dismantle e 186 n latd i Campbelr th sold e M 4 o an dt f Monzieo l . Lastly e Westh , t Highland Railway Company acquire n 1889i t i d , by whom it was demolished." Burt mentions tha e tow erectes th t nwa d int obarona favoun yi r governoe time oth f th e forr e th beingfo tf o rintd an ,oburga e th n hi name of Queen Mary. Fort Augustus s situatei e south-westh t f Locda o d h en Nesst t I . stand fiaa n t so piec f laneo d betwee e Oich th e Tarf d nth , whicEan h flow into Loch Ness. From bein e burial-placgth e e familCuminsth s th f f wa o o ey t i , anciently called " Kilcuminim." s builfore wa tTh t shortly afteRebellioe th r f 1715 o ns for It .m was square, with a bastion at each corner, on which could be mounted twelve guns. It was defended by a ditch, covered-way, and glacis. e barrackTh s were constructe e field-officeron r dfo , four captains, twelve subalterns ran 0 filed 28 kan . d an , After peac s restorede Highlandwa th e o t e magazineth s d an s stores stood gune emptyth sd weran , e remove Foro dt t George. A few soldiers resided here for some time after it was dismantled. Fort George (at Inverness).—This is not the place to enter upon a history of the castle at Inverness ; suffice it to say that Inverness had 332 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MARCH 13, 1911.

castlea , accordin Adamnano gt Kinn i , g Brudi' witn sca htimee W . certainty trace a castle in Inverness from the time of William the Lion (1165-1214) severas wa t I l .time s destroye rebuiltd dan d an , for short periods inhabite Scottisy db h kings. In 1715 it was held for a short time by Mar, but he was expelled royalistse byth Eosy b Kilravockf d eo le ,thoroughl s wa t I . y repaired

Fig . Por8 . t Georg t Inverness)e(a rebuils a , Generay b t l Wade, 1744.

in 1718, and made fit to hold 800 men, a governor's house, magazine, s completeld chapelwa an t I . y destroye e troopth f y Princdo sb e Charli19te th hn e o Februar y 1746. Bernera Glenelgn i onle th ys i other mentionee b for o t t connecn di - tion with .throads d I havdefinity eol t an e bu ,t faileege informao dt - tion regarding it. . In the compilation of these notes I have been indebted to informa- tion obtained from -.—The Home Office Military Entry Book e ; 'Th Treasury Minute Book ; Domestic State Papers ; The King's Warrant MILITAEY ROAD FORTIFICATIOND AN S SHIGHLANDSE INTH 3 33 .

Books ; Domestic Annals of Scotland ; House of Commons Journals; Scots Magazine, by the late Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of Gairloch, and e Transactionse founth b n i o embodiedt m f a papehi o n i y db r Inverness Scientific Society d Fieldan Club', Shaw's Historyf o Moray SurveyThe ; of Moray ; Banff Field Club Transactions ; Inverness Field Club Transactions.