The Topography of Pelion and Magnesia Author(S): Alan J. B. Wace Source: the Journal of Hellenic Studies, Vol. 26 (1906), Pp. 14
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The Topography of Pelion and Magnesia Author(s): Alan J. B. Wace Source: The Journal of Hellenic Studies, Vol. 26 (1906), pp. 143-168 Published by: The Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/624345 Accessed: 20-03-2015 12:34 UTC Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to The Journal of Hellenic Studies. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 169.230.243.252 on Fri, 20 Mar 2015 12:34:49 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions THE TOPOGRAPHY OF PELION AND MAGNESIA. THIns paper gives the results of a journey of exploration undertaken in April, 1905, in the Magnesian peninsula by Mr. A. W. Van Buren of the American School at Rome and myself. The observations are in many cases incomplete, but every effort has been made to make them as perfect as time and means allowed. I would like to point out to archaeologists who are too often content only with a tour to Larissa, Tempe, the Meteora, and Phersala, that Thessaly is in many respects a terra incognita. That it amply repays exploration and excavation is shewn by the results obtained by Dr. Tsountas and Dr. Stais at Dhiminri, Sesklo, and Marmariani. It is to be hoped that in future archaeologists will visit Thessaly more frequently and not be content with mere sight-seeing. I myself hope to return this year to study the Ossa district; and it is possible that the British School at Athens will, if circumstances permit, excavate the temple site at Kato Georgi. In preparing this paper I have received much kind help from Dr. Wilhelm, Dr. Fredrich, Dr. Svoronos, Mr. G. F. Hill, and Mr. Wroth. To these and to Mr. Van Buren I wish to express my hearty thanks. I am also much indebted to two local gentlemen 6e2Scopov Zypydvov 1 and XaplXao4 Patpebfl9 of Argelaste who accompanied me for two days, to the Demarch of Neochori, and many others. ? 1.-Introduction. The principal modern authorities who have dealt with the topography and archaeology of the district are :- Leake, Northern Greece,iv. pp. 368-399, 426-433 [Leake].2 Mdzibres,M6moire sur le Pdlion et I'Ossa(Archives des Missions Scientifiques, 1854, pp. 149 seqq.) [Mezibres]. Bursian, Geographievon Griechenland,i. pp. 96 sqq. [Bursian]. 1 He published in the K4of April Rerum Magnesiarum Specimen ; Tozer, High- 21st and 22nd (May 3rd Havea'raahand 4th), 1905, a brief lands of Turkey ii.; Ussing, GriechischeReisen account of part of our journey. und Studien. For an account of the Magnesian 2 In the square brackets are given the names Confederation see Daremberg-Saglio, v. pp. 837 by which the works will be cited below. Other seqq. works of less importance are, Kretschmann, This content downloaded from 169.230.243.252 on Fri, 20 Mar 2015 12:34:49 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 144 ALAN J. B. WACE Georgiades, ecrreaXi& (first edition 1880), second edition, 1894 [Georgiades]. The most important passages in classical authors dealing with the geography of Magnesia are to be found in Scylax and Pliny. Scylax 3 says: *EOvo9 'Mayvirc al a'e OXazrav ' 'IIoX/coK, MEOlCOV, Xt T 0 KXlwov Kopaal,"iat I.diXavOpa,V7aapa' 'OXtacv, "Jo-at C8v.'7rOXetT o 8& cPt o^,, Epupvtevai, M pat. Hayaa'• tcoio MeXM/3oLa, SEPIAS* CAPEPORI) LAKEB0EBEI 'THEMAGNESIAN PENINSULA 0 5 10 MILES N E L EIL ES *(H AC IO S OE M ETh IO 51 AEAE G4ULF o VO LO (LEIPHKASTRO . *KATOGEORGI SKIATHOM ARGARTEME".UM-4 MYRiMEX (TREMI$RM Pliny tells us:-4 Thessaliae adnexa Magnesia est, cuius gens Libethra, oppida lolcus, Ormenium, Pyrrha, Methone, Olizon, promunturium Sepias oppida Castana, Periplius, 65. SNat. Hist. iv. c. 9, ? 16. This content downloaded from 169.230.243.252 on Fri, 20 Mar 2015 12:34:49 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions THE TOPOGRAPHY OF PELION AND MAGNESIA. 145 Spalathra, promunturium Aeantium, oppida Meliboea, Rhizus, Erymnae, ostium Penii, oppida Homolium, Orthe, Iresiae, Pelinna, Thaumacie, Gyrton, Crannon, Acharne, Dotion, Melite, Phylace, Potniae. Other important information is given us by Strabo, Ptolemy, and Pomponius Mela. The towns or places which previous writers have assigned to the Magnesian peninsula are Sepias, Aphetae,5 Olizon, Spalathra, Kopaxcal, Methone, Neleia,0 Demetrias, Iolcus, Orminion, Pagasae, Glaphyrae,7Boebe, Myrae. Of all these sites not one is actually identified by epigraphical evidence. The position of Demetrias is certain, since Strabo tells us it was built between Pagasae and Neleia. The site of Pagasae is fixed because Strabo also says it was in his day the port of Pherae. Therefore Pagasae must be identified with the ruined city to the west of the harbour of Volo. On the east of this same harbour in a very strong natural position is another city site: this must be Demetrias. Thus we must assume Neleia to have been to the south of Demetrias. Iolcus we know from Strabo was only seven stades from Demetrias; therefore it must be looked for quite close to that city. Scylax in enumerating the towns within the Gulf of Pagasae heads his list with Iolcus, and then mentions four or five more sites. Similarly in his list of those outside the gulf he begins with Meliboea, which we know from Livy S to have lain at the foot of Ossa between it and Pelion. Therefore we may follow Georgiades in placing it in the neighbourhood of Thandtu,9 which identification has been confirmed by epigraphic evidence.10 Thus it is legitimate to assume that Scylax' list of towns begins with the most northern. In this paper then it is proposed to take the towns in the reverse order from south to north, and to identify them as far as possible with the ancient sites of the peninsula. A brief description of each site is given with additional notes on any features of interest in its neighbourhood. ? 2.-Sepias 11and Aphetae.12 This town was situated on or near a promontory which bore the same name. Hitherto it has been universally assumed that Cape Sepias is the promontory at the heel of Magnesia opposite Skiathos. Our most important authority for its position is Herodotus. In describing the movements of the Persian fleet before Artemisium, he says three of the Persian scouts advanced to the sunken rock between Skiathos and Magnesia. This rock, 5 Herodotus, vii. 193. Athenaeus, i. 30 D; Pliny, loc. cit. ; Apol- 6 Strabo,ix. 436. ]onius Rhodius, i. 580 ; Ptolemy, iii. 13, ? 16; 7 Iliad, ii. 712; Stephanus, s.n. Pomponius Mela, ii. 3. 580; Georgiades, p. 8xliv. 13. 137 ; Bursian, p. 100 ; Mizibres, p. 210. 9P. 144. 12 Herodotus, vii. 193, viii. 8; Strabo, ix. 10 AeXTLoJ,1889, p. 92; Inscir.at Thanitu 436; Apollonius Rhodius, i. 591; Stephanus, nfapjevowa Mevz'vapovMEALo'ooaa. s.n. ; Leake, p. 243; Bursian, p. 101; Geor- 11 Herodotus, vii. 113, 188, 191; Strabo, giades, p. 114. vii. 330, ix. 443; Pausanias, viii. 27. 14; H.S.-VOL. XXVI. L This content downloaded from 169.230.243.252 on Fri, 20 Mar 2015 12:34:49 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 146 ALAN J. B. WACE then called Myrmex and now Eleutheri, lies just awash in the channel between the heel of Magnesia and Skiathos, rather nearer the mainland than the island. He then says the whole fleet made one day's voyage from Therma to the coast between Casthanaea and Cape Sepias. Casthanaea is identified with great probability with a site by Keramidi 13 on the northern coast below Pelion. Later in describing the storm he says that some Persian ships were wrecked at Hipnoi at the foot of Pelion (a place identified by Georgiades with the cave-eaten cliffs by Vendto), others at Cape Sepias, others near Meliboea and Casthanaea. A glance at the map shews all these places near together except Sepias, if we identify it with the heel of Magnesia. Finally Herodotus, in describing the last movement of the fleet before Artemisium, says the Persians rounded the extreme point of Magnesia and sailed straight into the bay leading to Pagasae. There they anchored at a place called Aphetae, said to take its name from the abandonment of Heracles by the Argonauts. Georgiades identifies Aphetae with Aphesos, a little modern village right inside the Gulf of Pagasae. This view is clearly absurd. If the Persians could enter the Gulf of Pagasae they would have passed the Greeks at Artemisium and have outflanked Leonidas at Thermopylae. Besides it would make nonsense of Herodotus' statement that Aphetae and Artemi- sium were opposite one another. Leake places Aphetae at Trikeri at the mouth of the gulf, a very unsuitable place and open to the same strategic objections. Grundy,14who seems to accept the orthodox view as to the position of Sepias, says that Aphetae must have been somewhere in the south of Magnesia at the entrance to the Gulf of Pagasae. Now in the south of the Magnesian peninsula there are only two harbours, one at Platanih not far round the corner of the peninsula, and another by the Palaeokastro identified as Olizon.