WWD Women’s Wear Daily fitted lookofseasons pastforthemorerelaxed silhouetteshe’s begun fitted lookofseasons pastforthemorerelaxed silhouetteshe’s begun numbers. For moreNewYork Fashion Week coverage, seepages6to14. numbers. For moreNewYork Fashion Week coverage,seepages6to 14. Loose Change Loose Loose Change Loose favoring in her own wardrobe. Here, one of her stunning draped silk favoring inherown wardrobe.Here,oneofher stunning drapedsilk favoring in her own wardrobe. Here, one of her stunning draped silk favoring inherown wardrobe.Here,oneofher stunning drapedsilk Victoria Beckhamislooseningup. For spring,shejettisoned the Victoria Beckhamislooseningup. For spring,shejettisoned the • Monday, September13,2010 • $3.00 NEW collections spring ’11spring YORK

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI PARIS — By MilesSocha cutting edge of international popculture,”/ cutting edgeofinternational fashions tame. house in2008,keepingalowprofileandher attheClarins-ownedfashion who quietlyarrived Mendes, KirstenDunstandRobertPattinson. Johansson, Eva Sevigny, Scarlett site includeChloë listed onhisWeb celebrity clients Confused andAnotherMagazine.Meanwhile, a contributingeditorofVMagazine,Dazed& fashion directorofVogue HommesJapanand report inWWDonSept.9. of women’swearandmen’swear, a confirming stylist toLadyGaga—itsnewcreativedirector has namedNicolaFormichetti —bestknownas esque trackbacktofashionnotoriety. and more. Altuzarra Beckham, Wang, Victoria Alexander Furstenberg, Diane von Reviews of Fashion: New York Spring2011 Collections News: The OlsensPostpone TheirShow  Men’s: Kim JonesStepsDownatDunhill The Row, withplanstodoapresentationinParis. collection willbearsomeofhisstamp. Dunhill brandisleavingimmediately, butthefall2011 Touting Formichetti, 33,asbeing“onthe Formichetti Rodriguez, willsucceedRosemary Formichetti, alsoaneditorandconsultant,is The Paris-based fashionandfragrancehouse Names Formichetti Names Formichetti

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▲ ▲ / / / 2 2 6 18 18 / 7 2 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 WWD.COM Olsens’ Row Show Postponed Web Site Ahalife Set to Launch By Marc Karimzadeh cited and are looking forward to By Cate T. Corcoran presenting our collection.” NEW YORK — Mary-Kate Olsen The designing sisters have not NEW ONLINE RETAIL CONCEPT AHALIFE LAUNCHES TODAY, WITH and Ashley Olsen have post- yet finalized the date or venue the potential to remake retail much as Vente-Privee did. poned their runway presentation for their Paris presentation, but It is an online design lifestyle store that features one “globally cu- for The Row because of delayed they are expected to favor an in- rated” product every 24 hours. The items can be chosen by a celebrity

sample deliveries. STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY timate setting over a runway ex- or anyone in the world who is a member of the site. The Olsens were scheduled travaganza. The Row had its first Products could come from the worlds of home design, fashion, food, art, con- to show the spring collection runway outing during New York sumer electronics or charity. Prices will start at $75 and go up into the thousands. of their designer brand at Milk Fashion Week last February with “We feature products that are editorially interesting,” said founder Studios on Tuesday. They are a small runway presentation for Shauna Mei, who studied computer science at MIT, worked on the sale now planning to unveil the line to a select group of editors and re- of the Neiman Marcus Group at Goldman Sachs and co-founded luxury buyers and editors in Paris dur- tail buyers. investment firm the Aronsson Group. “We’re not trying to predict what ing the city’s fashion week, which The Olsens launched The Row consumers will want. They tell us what they want.” is Sept. 28 to Oct. 6. in 2007 with the idea to create a Gilles Bensimon is creative director, while chief buyer Lou Sagar “We have made the decision perfect T-shirt, but the collection founded SoHo-based home retailer Zona. to postpone our spring-summer has since evolved to include cat- Each member can submit an idea or a photo of an item to sell. If 2011 presentation of The Row egories like eveningwear, outer- Ahalife likes the idea, its nine-person team will hunt it down or pro- due to sample delivery,” Mary- wear, knits, men’s wear and sun- duce it. The item will be produced according to demand or shipped Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen said Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen glasses. It is sold in stores such immediately if it’s something available in limited quantity. in a joint statement. “Production as Barneys New York, Bergdorf Each item will be introduced with a story in the form of a video of the de- and delivery of our samples is delayed by a few Goodman and Maxfields in the U.S.; Isetan and signer talking about the product and profiles of the designer and the curator. days and this has cast us out of the New York The Wall in Japan; Le Bon Marché, Maria Luisa Some of the upcoming curators and designers include Diane von schedule. We will therefore present it to the and Printemps in France, and Podium, Aizel Furstenberg, Iris Apfel, Tim Gunn, blogger James Andrew of What Is market within the Paris schedule. We are ex- and The Icon in Russia. James Wearing, Alexis Bittar and Rachel Roy. Lauren Bush plans to cre- ate a scarf hand-dyed by women in the Congo. Buyers will receive an “aha karma” badge on their profiles. Each member will have a profile, but only the curators’ profiles will be visible to everyone. Profiles will ask, “What was the most inspiring Kim Jones Leaving Alfred Dunhill thing you bought recently?” A later version of the site will allow mem- bers to “follow” favorite curators and to receive notifications when an By Samantha Conti brand has logged double-digit item of theirs goes up for sale. Curators are not paid. volume increases worldwide Items will fall into daily themes. Monday is “Optimize Me,” Tuesday LONDON — Kim Jones will step over the past four years. is “Dress Me,” Wednesday is “Nourish Me,” Thursday is “Design down as Alfred Dunhill’s cre- “Kim has made a valuable Me,” Friday is “Treat Me,” Saturday is “Go With Me,” and Sunday is ative director this week after contribution to the creative de- “Enlighten Me.” Sunday’s item will be educational only and introduce two-and-a-half years, the com- velopment of Alfred Dunhill members to a new idea, person or service, but will not be for sale. pany said Sunday. over the past two-and-a-half “Surprise Me” is a wildcard category for special or one-of-a-kind items Jones became Dunhill’s first years,” said Christopher Colfer, that will show up once or twice a month. creative director in February chief executive officer of Alfred Most of the items for sale will fall into three categories, said Mei: 2008, and during his tenure Dunhill. “His collections have •Those available only in a specific geography, such as silk earrings built a creative team and struc- been both commercial and sold only in one kimono shop in Kyoto, Japan. ture, and reinvigorated the la- greatly appreciated, and there- •Exclusives created with an established designer. bel’s men’s wear offer with his fore we are sorry to see him go. •Product launches that will be exclusive to Ahalife for 24 hours. youthful spin on classic, tai- But his departure is in line with Apparel will focus mostly on outerwear, accessories and jewelry. lored pieces. the original planning and strat- The company received one round of funding in March for an undis- His last full collection was for egy for the brand.” closed sum from angel investors and FirstMark Capital. spring 2011, although a Dunhill The spokeswoman said there The site is part of a bigger trend of new ways to shop online, which spokeswoman confirmed that are no plans to replace Jones, frequently combine elements of gaming, limited time availability, social Jones also worked on the fall and that his team would remain media, crowd souring and mobile. The name refers to that “aha!” mo- 2011 collection, which will show in place at the brand, which is ment of inspiration, and the daily curation is meant to be inspiring and in Paris in January. A look from owned by Compagnie Financière to “cut through the clutter” online. Dunhill hired Jones, whose Alfred Dunhill. Richemont. Although the idea combines elements of stores and media sites such background was in edgy, street- “I would like to thank all at as Colette, Yoox, Woot, Groupon, Daily Candy, Nowness and others, Mei wise sportswear, to increase the fashion quo- Dunhill, especially my creative team, and I said she came up with idea by staring at a blank piece of paper and ask- tient. Jones created a younger image for the am looking forward to announcing future proj- ing herself how she would like to shop. brand with updated tailoring while stressing ects shortly as well as publishing two books,” “We believe the Internet is not about discount, we believe it’s a free the travel aspect of its heritage. Dunhill as a Jones said. landscape where anyone can create what they want to create,” said Mei. COMING THIS WEEK DAILY Just remember, MONDAY: Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week continues (through Thursday). QUOTE “fashion people, • Texworld, Paris (through Thursday). your pretty face is going to hell. HILLDUN TUESDAY: Expofil, Indigo Fashion Edition, Le Cuir à Paris, ModAmont, ” Première Vision and Zoom by Fatex, — Iggy Pop at Pop magazine’s party before launching into IS IN FASHION Paris (through Thursday). “Your Pretty Face is Going to Hell.” Page 4. • The U.S. Commerce Department releases the August retail sales report. Annabelle TODAY ON FACTORING Dexter- WWD ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE FINANCING THURSDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases Jones .COM the Producer Price Index for August. LETTERS OF CREDIT • Full runs of show, and PURCHASE ORDER FINANCING FRIDAY: London Fashion Week backstage and front-row (through Sept. 21). coverage, from • The Labor Department releases the New York Fashion Week Consumer Price Index for August. (212) 244-2600 • Additional images from

225 W 35TH STREET, NY, NY 10001 SUNDAY: Mipel, Milan (through Sept. 22). STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY fashion week parties

TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. 7LP0RRUH -HIIUH\.DSHOPDQ &KULVWLQD0DOOHRV WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 200, NO. 55. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, *DU\:DVVQHU two additional issues in March, April, August, September and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President-Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, (213) 955-9010 North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 110 E. 9TH STREET, SUITE A1168 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes LOS ANGELES, CA 90079 undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Group magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available %ULWWDQ\6WDSHOPDQQ to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Go backstage with her at www.maybellinelovesfashion.com. ©2010 Maybelline LLC. 4 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 WWD.COM Alexander Wang CIRCUS MAXIMUS

LAST SEPTEMBER, ALEXANDER WANG enlisted Courtney Love to rock his fashion week bash. Twelve months later, the designer thinks performances at after parties “are so over,” so on Saturday night, he erected a carnival on Eighth Avenue and Love was left to play Don Hill’s (where Nur Khan and DeLeon Tequila’s lineup this week spans decades). There were bumper cars, ring toss games, skee ball, a bouncy castle, a carousel and water gun Joseph Altuzarra races at Wang’s party at the Edison with Vanessa Parking lot. Celebrities — model Iris Traina in Chloé. Strubegger, Magnus Berger, Agyness Deyn, Sean Avery, Joseph Altuzarra and especially Kristin Cavallari —were the side shows. “I was like, ‘This is like my high school carnival,’” observed one girl. Iggy Pop Caroline Winberg at the “And then I saw Russell Simmons and Pop magazine party. realized I didn’t go to high school with him or that Victoria’s Secret model.” Over at Don Hill’s, Love didn’t go on stage until 1:30 — 90 minutes behind schedule. “So sorry we are late,” she said to the restless crowd that included Alexandra Richards, Byrdie Bell and Brett Ratner. All was forgiven as soon as the singer dove into a set that included Rolling Stones covers and a hard rock rendition of Lady Gaga’s “Bad Romance.” “That sucked so much,” she said, though the screaming audience clearly disagreed. • • • Pop magazine’s Friday night party at Don Hill’s was something of a circus, Iman in a too. While Karen Elson and Michael Pitt Dolce & stood in a line to get in that snaked Gabbana top around the block (“I’m sure we all got and The Row the invite and I’m rather annoyed,” pants. said Elson), a man and woman on stilts joined the fray. Byrdie Bell “This is not the place for this,” said a straight-faced cop as the man on stilts teetered on the sidewalk. And that was just outside the club. Inside, Dasha Zhukova held court at one table with Gwen Stefani, Gavin Rossdale and Vivi Nevo, while Shala Monroque shimmied on a ledge above them; Gaia Repossi and Caroline Sieber navigated the room like Bambis in headlights, and Selma Blair and André Balazs entered hand-in-hand. When Iggy and The Stooges took the stage, bedlam ensued. During the hour-long set, Iggy Pop shook the stereo equipment, stage dived into the thrashing mosh pit and heckled his audience. “As we are only too aware, it’s fashion week,” Pop screamed. “Just remember, fashion people, your pretty face is going to hell,” he yelled, For more Gwen before launching into the song of the photos name. Chloë Sevigny bopped in a corner, Stefani in and party L.A.M.B. Ryan McGinley joined the mob near the coverage see front of the stage, and the bartender WWD.com/ Magnus got so excited he sprayed the crowd, Berger eyescoop. hose-style, with soda, leaving everyone drenched. • • • Iman co-designed the lounge at Lincoln Center with Carlos Mota, but the supermodel isn’t stepping foot in any of the tents this week. “Fashion shows are not as exclusive as they used to be,” she said at a dinner Saturday night hosted by Mercedes- Benz at The Lion. “Alex Wang showed today at 5 o’clock and I’ve already seen it on the Internet.” That’s not to say, she doesn’t have an opinion on New York Fashion Week’s new venue. “You would think fashion people would like change, but they don’t. They poo-poo everything even Selma before they give it a chance,” said Courtney Love Blair Iman. “The move to Lincoln Center PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND LEXIE MORELAND PHOTOS BY elevates fashion.” Fifth & 54th

DIESEL.com 6 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010

Less is proving to be more on the runways as clean shapes and unadorned looks are surfacing for spring, without sacrificing an ounce of style.

SpringDiane von Furstenberg Cleaning Victoria Beckham

IANNACCONE collections THOMAS AND

GIANNONI NEW GIOVANNI

CHINSEE, YORK

GEORGE spring ’11 BY PHOTOS

Diane von Furstenberg: By the end of Nathan Jenden’s tenure as Diane von Furstenberg’s Victoria Beckham: Sculpture, curves and Brancusi, with a dash of the Sixties, creative director, the collection had taken on an unapologetically girly spirit marked were the key talking points in Victoria Beckham’s charmingly rehearsed by festive pilings and explosions of stuff. Now it’s Yvan Mispelaere’s turn to interpret spring presentation, but one look at her said it all: The signature short, DVF’s printed and wrapped world. In what direction would he go? Show notes tight and sexy silhouette has been traded in for a girlish fit-and-flare, and called the collection, Mispelaere’s first, “Goddess” and traced its inspiration back her severe pixie hair, grown out into easy curls. “My personal style has to an Isadora Duncan show in Paris, two references that were a little misleading in really loosened up,” said Beckham. And since she’s the house designer and retrospect. It turned out this wasn’t an exercise in romantic Grecian draping, and muse, the same goes for the collection, a lovely lineup, now featuring its there wasn’t a single silk scarf in sight. Nor was the first look, a jumpsuit version of softer side. DVF’s iconic printed wrap dress that fell on the bland side of the house vocabulary, Beckham called it “probably the most directional thing I’ve done,” an accurate harbinger of what was to come. relatively speaking. Still dresses-only, the collection was comprised of Mispelaere and von Furstenberg envisioned their goddess as an empowered, smart, approachable shapes that tastefully showcase a woman’s sensuality. intellectual beauty, her messy librarian’s bun and John Lennon sunglasses radiating Languid parachute silk was effortlessly wrapped and knotted into a purple chic practicality. The pilings were out, and clean, crisp sportswear was in. The day dress, and cut long and lean on a glamorous black evening gown, dominant look was for day, built out of lightweight silk separates — shorts, shirts and draped to perfection and secured with an invisible interior belt. Everything jackets that were tailored fluid ease. Done in solid, sporty brights, such as mint green had a distinct femininity, even when the look was structured, as in the stiff and melon, the result was refreshingly pared down and grown up. Likewise the mix lacquered jacquard dresses that were fitted up top with short, full skirts. of dresses, mostly modern variations on a slip or a sheath. Of course, there was also As Beckham said, she’s evolving, in more ways than one: She also an abundance of prints, here, blown-out and graphic, some so big they bordered on introduced her new line of handbags — six chic, boxy styles of which blinding. Mispelaere will have his chance to tame them. Because even though there’s Beckham has a favorite. “It’s called the Victoria bag,” she said. “Because new blood in the house, some things will never change. I’m going to use it every day.” WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 7 WWD.COM

Alexander Simon Wang Spurr TOM’s BACK! Before he wanted to be a famous movie director, Tom Ford wanted to be a famous movie star. Welcome to one man’s American dream. Because on a soggy Sunday night on Madison Avenue, in a sliver of an opening into which he inserted himself be- tween Thakoon and Tommy Hilfiger’s 25th, Ford hit the trifecta. Ford made his return to women’s fashion a masterful ode to exqui- site oxymoron. It was a small-scale, high-impact show that gave the traditional fashion audience — so many of its members by now weary of big tents, pushing, shoving and Twitter-dee/Twitter-dum tent-tab- loid — everything we’ve been longing for. The crowd, make that guest list, was small enough to fit, albeit snugly, into his Madison Avenue boutique, yet included many of the most important industry people who typically populate fashion’s front row. But no celebrities, unless you count his other-career colleague, Bryan Lourd. No Gossip Girls or teen bloggers, and in their absence, no paparazzi stomping on feet. Nor were there any runway photographers, the better for the famous designer-director-control freak to put out for more general consump- tion exactly which photographs by the house photographer (said house photographer being Terry Richardson) merit distribution. He turned the whole age-body-image conversation into pure magic, showing not on a lineup of comely teens, but, he explained in a brief welcome, “on many of the world’s most inspirational women.”

Tom Ford

Alexander Wang: From darkness comes light. Or in Alexander Wang’s world, from fall’s dark opium dens comes a season of optimism. “I wanted to explore a purity and honesty,” said Wang, preshow. “As you can see, there’s not one hint of black.” And in that manner, he joins the myriad of other designers who are working that buoyant, lightened-up mood. The point of difference here is one that’s uniquely his. “I’m in a constant state of construction,” he explained. To clarify, the designer just added a new floor to his offices, is renovating a new apartment and, of course, has been working on his first store. On the most literal level, those notions turned up in the workwear vibe pulsing throughout. Ford then proved what a movie star personality is. Completely debo- Wang riffed on overalls and wide-leg carpenter pants, added swaths of copper paint to denim nair in a newly grown beard and impeccable tuxedo, he narrated the jackets and utilitarian crisscross straps to a flyaway silk trench. Meanwhile, those foil details show as if in an old film, “Ladies and gentlemen, Ms. Farida Khelfa,” throughout referenced duct tape. If one needed more of a hint, his models came accessorized with he said before describing her ivory silk double georgette in detail. He swipes of white paint (plaster? caulk?) in their hair. then proceeded on through a lineup of fabulously diverse women from Wang also continued with last season’s deconstruction motif, resulting in much layering and Beyoncé to “The Honorable” Daphne Guinness to Natalia to his pals ultrarelaxed silhouettes. At times, things turned slightly Japanese (the belted judo jackets and Rita Wilson and Lisa Eisner. And multiple model generations were kimono-esque dresses); others, more baggy, hip-hop-style. The effect wasn’t always successful, well represented from Marisa Berenson to Chanel Iman — they were however, occasionally seeming more haphazard than nonchalant. But there were plenty of great all adult. These are the types of women who might reasonably buy and ideas that will trickle down, like how his languid Ts and his skinny pants have — carpenter wear Ford’s clothes, and they look fantastic. The clothes were very Ford, jeans, perhaps? Also new this season: Wang’s first-ever in-house print, actually doodles done by which is to say consummately glamorous, yet very real, from numerous his staff and reproduced on fabrics in washed-out hues. “There are inside jokes [written] that takes on the smoking to gowns covered in yard-long silken fringe. They even I don’t know,” he said. all sent the message from which Ford the designer has never veered: Looking good, looking chic, looking right is worth a little effort. Simon Spurr: First of all, if you’re a New York men’s designer with good casting, a good soundtrack “It was so much fun,” noted the gorgeously curvy Beyoncé after the and good styling, you go straight to the head of your class. Simon Spurr executes with a level of show. “It felt like a performance. It had the energy of a live show. It’s quality and refinement that leaves most of his peer group in the dust. One can detect from across great to see people have fun in fashion.” a room that the collection is made in Europe. But just who is the Simon Spurr guy? A British Flame-haired model-turned-musical artist Karen Elson proclaimed banker? An Italian playboy? A teddy boy? A Hollywood scenester? All these and more, evidently, it “may be my favorite fashion show ever. The audience was happy. The but a Brit in New York feels like the sweet spot to us. Natty suits, many of them patterned and women were all so happy. Every kind of woman was represented and three-piece, alternated with great leather jackets and jeans. Spurr still needs to modify those we all felt as gorgeous as we’re ever going to look. I’m in heaven. It was trousers, sometimes so tight through the thigh that they look unhygienic. But the overall polish of so intimate, the way a fashion show should be.” a Spurr show is absolutely refreshing to witness. — Bridget Foley 8 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 collections Prabal Gurung NEW Altuzarra DKNY YORKspring ’11

For full runs of show, see WWD.com/fashion-shows-reviews. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 9 WWD.COM

Prabal Gurung: In just four seasons, Prabal Gurung has established Ohne Adam himself as an up-and-comer for the dressed-up type, whose friskier Titel Adam side he explored for spring. During a preview of the collection, Lippes Gurung said that “rather than obvious sexy, it’s intelligent sexy.” He certainly put a lot of thought into the labor-intensive fabrics, such as featherweight cashmere intarsia done in bold color blocks, washed silk duchesse, scuba material and rubberized fil coupé. Some he used to elevate a relatively simple shape — all more body conscious than ever — like a sheath accented with geometric tulle inserts, or the gorgeous ivory tailored coat done in strips of silk faille. But often Gurung took the craftiness too far with raffialike fringe and tricky folds. Also not a complete success was the dominant hemline, which fell well below the knee. If it lent a level of sophistication to some of the dresses that, cut short, could have gone cheesy, it often looked awkward and didn’t pair well with the amply ankle-strapped shoes. Those, on the other hand, the product of Gurung’s first collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood, were the perfect fit for a sexy, smart lady.

Altuzarra: When a young designer confesses that the collection was triggered by an unedited roster of inspirations, one thought comes to mind: uh-oh. Not so with Joseph Altuzarra, who delivered his best collection to date. If last season he had everyone abuzz about fierce femme fatales, this time he’ll have people talking about his savvy restraint and sleek precision. Which is somewhat ironic, given, as mentioned, his various influences — from the Sixties to urban signage to techno culture. “The idea stemmed from the Internet and how you can see so many sources in a single click,” he explained, postshow. “It’s about that kind of freedom and image consumption.” In other words, with so many references, they boiled down to zero. So what if the metallic collars on sheath dresses carry a touch of Mod? Or that the abundant use of snakeskin — as trim, triangular inserts and geometrically patchworked into body-hugging jersey gowns — hinted at something more tribal? Or that ravers might pick up on the pops of fluorescent hues in those glow-stick-like bracelets? Altuzarra’s cocktail of elements produced a singular vision in streamlined and sexily modern clothes: rigorously cut dresses, some with sweeping asymmetric hems; smart wide-leg pants and nipped-waist jackets, and those patchworked finale dresses, which were absolutely alluring. That Altuzarra’s show was streamed live on the web, only brings his initial inspiration process full circle.

DKNY: Giant posters, emblazoned with witty New York-centric wordplays by illustrator Monsieur Cabinet, greeted guests upon arrival at DKNY. “Long Live the Queens,” “Mad Is On,” “All Hail the Cab,” and “Big Apple of My Eye,” they read in bright vivid hues. All signals indicated a fun, kicky ride — which the show absolutely was. Of course, like any good designer, Donna Karan knows the value of building momentum. Thus, she started off with a chic tailoring story: snappy twill coats, a sleeveless trench dress, and slim skirts in a practical palette of khaki, black and navy. Jackets, some with peplum waists, were worn tied around the waist, Nineties-style; the effect was street-smart sophisticate. Providing the feminine counterpoint here were ruffles (down a lapel; in tiers on a frilly skirt), a motif that continued full-bloom in the playful second half, whether trimming an electric blue maillot or cascading down the sides of a bright, floral-print dress. The season’s other big theme: patterned silk scarves. They were jauntily tied around necks and cut into loose, easy blouses. And if the takeaway here was a slightly French-ified vision of New York dressing, so what? Going global is the new black.

Patrik Ohne Titel: Alexa Adams and Flora Gill have already whipped up serious Ervell retail and editorial acclaim, and according to them their sales last season jumped 300 percent. With this collection, the Ohne Titel duo has climbed one rung higher. Inspired by woodblock artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi, it looked smart, sharp and self-assured. In many ways, the collection felt close in spirit to last spring’s outing, with a major emphasis on colorblocking and a clean, graphic sensibility. This time, however, their Japanese muse led them to looser, more organic shapes. Jackets were cut kimono-style, with generous sleeves; pants came loose and knotted at the waist. Of course, Gill and Adams have a way of pushing wanderlust and exotic inspirations toward ultramodern territory. The jewelry, done in collaboration with artist Tauba Auerbach, undeniably helped boost that vibe — imagine necklaces and bracelets made of sleek Lucite tubing and neon elastic bands. But it’s their knack for innovative fabrics that took charge here, as in their terrifically tight knits, made into flippy pleated skirts and nicely striped and ribbed cardigans. The designers also introduced neoprene, in bodysuits and tanks, as well as patchworked in pocket panels, that added an intriguing, if overly editorial, counterpoint.

Adam Adam Lippes: Adam Lippes was inspired by Charlotte Gainsbourg for his refined spring lineup. Yet it was Lippes’ twist on that image of fashion restraint that gave the collection its special charm — during a season awash in remembrance of days past, when women played it safe and preferred elegant over edgy. Some of the dresses — a bit more daring than Lippes’ sportswear — were the standouts: perfectly cut embroidered or eyelet linen sheaths; a long cutout embroidered chiffon look and even a red leather swingy slip dress. Knits, too, provided some of Lippes’ personal punch — in hardy cotton or linen, paired with shorts or a back-wrapped A-line skirt, and the embroidered sweatshirt with a long, fluid skirt in printed chiffon.

Patrik Ervell: Ervell’s professed allergy to cliché is so acute that he makes virtually no references at all. Such a minimalist approach might invite interesting risks with silhouette and fabric, but Ervell is so restrained that even when he proposes pleats here or stripes there, the gestures feel devoid of message. The dots don’t connect. What’s clear is he’s perfectly capable of churning out nonthreatening, versatile clothes for very young men. A lot of men’s designers are fixated on youth and find different ways to idealize it. Ervell, on the other hand, keeps forcing us to contemplate the most painfully awkward stage of adolescence — the one where everything is just an inch too short and the attempts to dress up are sweet but pathetic. We’re dying to see the kid develop a little. 10 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010

Derek Lam Z Spoke by Philosophy di Zac Posen Alberta Ferretti

collections NEW YORKspring ’11

Derek Lam: There’s no shortage of minimalist references In fact, the collection offered plenty of back interest commercial sportswear the collection was created for this season, but what’s different chez Derek Lam is that throughout — ruffled peplums, flyaway backs and — shrunken jackets, denim and Lurex knit T-shirts, all he pulled his collection’s theme from a New Yorker cape effects. His paper-thin silk cashmere sweater, done with a colorful, kooky spirit. review of the recent “Primary Atmospheres” exhibit thrown over a pleated skirt, had an elegant, asymmetric at New York’s David Zwirner gallery, which focused on swallowtail hem. Evening stuck to a daywear vibe — Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: This spring it’s more like Sixties California minimalism. “[The artists] shared a purposely so, noted Lam. While the breezy print dresses the Tao of Alberta Ferretti. The designer showed serene sensuousness,” wrote critic Peter Schjeldahl, didn’t bring much to the table, his sleek all-white finale her enthusiasm for the East in a major way with “that couldn’t have been more remote from [New York gowns were the perfect punctuation to the show. an Asian-inspired lineup. Between the cheongsam minimalism’s] principled asperity.” It made for a calm- minis, Mandarin collars, dragon prints and frog knots, yet-strong outing for the designer — clean, crisp and Z Spoke by Zac Posen: A front-row full of A-to-Z-list no traditional reference went unchecked. There controlled. celebrities (Claire Danes, Kristin Cavallari), seating were great colors and bold prints that gave the short Lam opened with all-denim looks, which cast a bedlam (crashers!) and a full house at the big tent. ruffled skirts, rompers and smock dresses a nice fresh, new light on the fabric when done as suiting, Wasn’t Zac Posen showing in Paris this season? youthful energy. But overall it skewed way too literal, trim coats and a terrific sleeveless shirt with front Anyone who thought they’d seen the last of Zac Posen’s particularly when it came to the satin styles. flaps. Even the de rigueur denim utility jacket took on traditional evening-slot spectacle underestimated Z an ultrarefined vibe here. But that’s what was powerful Spoke, which made its runway debut with a splash. The Christian Cota: Christian Cota drew on “nature’s fluid about this collection, that sportswear purity jump- party atmosphere was there and the clothes were just irregularities fused with modernity’s sharp structure” started in Paris, rendered here through a distinctly as festive, with girls turned out in punky magpie looks, for his spring lineup. Where these ideas intersected best American lens. Other cases in point: the trim A-line rainbow makeup and tranny shoes. Which isn’t to say was with a charming printed collared blouse under a suede skirts, poplin blouses and the great outerwear, the clothes were out-there too. Rather, Posen wisely loose-knit tank paired with printed shorts. Elsewhere, a including a fabulous canvas trench with a swingy alternated between the fun stuff, such as printed sheer draped black tulle and solid short romper looked ruffled drape in the back. bustier dresses with harness cutouts, and the kind of sexy. As for the rest, Cota lost touch with his youthful WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 11 WWD.COM

Christian Girl by Band of Elise Lacoste Cota Outsiders Overland

Lacoste

Boy by Band Band of of Outsiders Outsiders PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY sensibility and presented a number of ruffled, tiered range of product now felt fully contemporary, especially In men’s, silhouettes focused on pleated pants and flounced frocks that seemed dated and might have the outstanding leather and suede bomber jackets. The with gusts of volume paired with slim polos. Lemaire benefited from more tweaking in the studio. signature fine tailoring has relaxed and mixed easily imagined the iconic Lacoste garment in variations that with sportswear and even pajamas. ran the gamut from classic white to geometric optic Boy by Band of Outsiders: Clever vignettes and preppy prints. Band-collar shirts, collarless blazers and terry- cool are two sights one comes to expect at Boy by Band Lacoste: In his final collection for the brand before cloth cravats added visual interest to a collection that of Outsiders, and Scott Sternberg didn’t disappoint, decamping to Hermès, Christophe Lemaire sent out a was fresh, light and true to the brand’s uncomplicated with primary colors on all manner of clothing veritable swan song of sportif. Traditional tennis whites sportswear heritage. including a playful blue and red polka-dot cropped — check. The infamous polo — check, check. But it was button-down and cuffed pants. Taking inspiration what he did with the rest of the lineup that won the Elise Overland: The question became, how many from the subversive nature of Paul Outerbridge’s game. “I was thinking minimalism,” said the designer ways can you style tiers of fabric? Overland’s latest photography, Sternberg sought to give masculine as he prepped for the show, “and using the shapes to collection was chock full of them. Strapless tiered styles a feminine twist, while raw-edged shirtdresses create a graphic story.” So rather than pattern play, that dresses in her requisite black leather, a silk dress were intentionally sewn together off-kilter. The real meant clean lines in mostly generous cuts, spare for a with capelike sleeves that tiered down in contrasting news came with the debut of Sternberg’s diffusion smattering of mesh swimsuits and slim miniskirts that colors, jackets with rigid tiers down its front. They line Girl, which added a much more, you guessed it, were a nod to the net. Kimono coats were in flowing were not necessarily bad, just repetitive and a bit of girly quotient. A literally steamy setting saw laser-cut nylon and paired nicely over a cognac ultrasuede a step back from the inventiveness she’s shown in short frocks along with airy silk georgette dresses and top and pleated pants in bright orange. Armholes seasons past. Her minidresses, for example, looked separates in a delicate toile print. meanwhile were cut deeper and sleeves wider on great in the layered style and it made for interesting In men’s wear, the preppy, rich-kid aesthetic was fully everything from loosely woven knits to off-the-shoulder peplum-like accents on trousers that will likely intact for Band of Outsiders, but the Seventies-Eighties terry-cloth dresses, both of which volleyed nicely with become a go-to for fans like Kelly Osbourne, who was element has disappeared. Sternberg’s ever-broadening the higher waists Lemaire used throughout. perched in the front row. 12 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010

For full runs of show, see WWD.com/fashion-shows-reviews.

collections NEW YORKspring ’11

Max Azria Robert Geller

Max Azria: Max and Lubov Azria are not up to their old tricks. Rather, their but the relevant denims and olive fatigues only had a contemporizing effect. strong, near-singular point of view for spring is refreshingly light and simple: Remarkably, Geller accomplished this while retaining some of his signatures: pale dresses, from short to ankle-grazing, with a very narrow top and flowing jewel-toned silks, knickers and officer jackets with contoured plackets. He even skirt, sometimes asymmetric. There are lovely variations including a long brought back some items from his Cloak days, including a D-ring trouser and a strapless beauty in mint silk and cotton voile; layered slips in beige gauze over V-neck leather jacket. Ribbed cardigans and baggy, cuffed shorts were additional lime; halter looks under easy tops, and a variety of gowns with stringed or cowl standouts. Looking ahead, here’s hoping Geller keeps it current. backs. Sure there’s the occasional coat, over a bikini; lean pants, and a knockout black crepe jumpsuit, but the duo has found a direction that should lead right to Rebecca Taylor: It was that Seventies show at Rebecca Taylor as she looked to style the cash register. icons Bianca Jagger and Ali MacGraw for inspiration. The outcome: pared-down femininity that worked like a charm. Forget the mini — midi skirts were all the Robert Geller: Robert Geller set this collection in the present day instead of a rage here. Marbleized sweaters looked fresh, ankle-length dresses were easy and historical period — a seismic shift that resulted in his best collection to date. fluid, slouchy leather pants were cool and, of course, the decade’s signature high- Actually, his show notes cited student protesters of the Sixties and Seventies, rise faded denim was perfect. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 13 WWD.COM

Rebecca Cynthia Rowley Jill Stuart Lela Rose Taylor

Behnaz Malandrino Sarafpour PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY

Cynthia Rowley: At its core, Cynthia Rowley’s spring collection was about clean shapes and circle embroideries. The designer successfully played with geometry, too, in a in sherbet colors. Slim trousers, shells and sheaths cut nice lines and looked fresh cool color-blocked cashmere cardigan paired with a cantaloupe-colored metallic and sporty when layered with sheer striped knits. Bright, geometric jewelry and tweed skirt. Cocktail dresses came mostly sweet and ladylike, with intricate folds, cute floral shoes boosted the plain and simple shapes. Lest it border on boring, wrapping and embroideries, a peplum here, a cutout there. These at times lacked Rowley took what might have been a giant hole punch to skirts and dresses, the designer’s trademark polish, as did some of her evening looks, including dresses perforating them like Swiss cheese, and decorated other pieces with big cabochons with full, mulletlike skirts. to the effect of oversize dot candy — two ideas that were better in theory. Behnaz Sarafpour: Nature has been a recurring theme for Behnaz Sarafpour. She’s Jill Stuart: Jill Stuart seemed to be preaching a new gospel to her party-girl customer, made a conscious effort to incorporate sustainable materials into her collections one whose tenets include a more ladylike reserve (baring arms, fine, décolletage, not without sacrificing the polish for which she’s known. Spring made for another so much) and embracing fashion’s new minimalism — chic linen and silk toppers and stellar example. “I wanted to make a connection between fashion and nature,” skirts, which often extended to or below the knee, and several great simple suede said Sarafpour. To her point were natural cottons done in a neutral palette, some pieces. Adhering to a palette of black, white and cream (with a few champagne, rose recycled materials, namely wrap sandals that were carved from fallen trees. If that gold, navy and khaki moments), Stuart worked a distinctly Parisian vibe via tons of appeals to the conscientious consumer, the collection’s classic, feminine sportif pleats — on fanned collars and floaty printed silk blouses, as well as on A-line skirts — trim jackets belted over full, A-line skirts, and a pretty white lace shell and and dresses cinched with a simple black belt. Appealing, too, were her riffs on black matching skirt — will find fans in a broader audience. tie, as in a tuxedo with skinny cropped pants and a black dress with an amusing white shirttail hem, though a few of her dressier looks, especially those boasting large Malandrino: It’s arts-and-crafts time for Catherine Malandrino as she looked to the cutouts or caterpillarlike embroidery and beaded embellishments, felt overwrought. artists’ village of Vallauris in the South of France for inspiration. She took cues from the unique pottery of the region, notably the ceramist Roger Capron. Malandrino’s Lela Rose: Riffing on a Peruvian theme, Lela Rose sent out some great peppy craftiness shone through with her woven leather boleros, macramé knit sweaters sportswear — a striped taffeta anorak thrown over a lemon tank and embroidered and studded jackets paired with easy harem pants, long asymmetric skirts and fluid full skirt — with homespun effects such as hand-loomed details, textured fabrics sheer trousers, all done with her carefree bohemian spirit. 14 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 WWD.COM

VPL by Tim Tom Scott VPL by Victoria Bartlett: Victoria Bartlett clearly Victoria Hamilton has a fabulous time just doing her thing — Bartlett Redux unexpected cutting, splicing, layering and funny shapes. Depending on one’s vantage point, these clothes can appear from outer space or down to earth. Here, one can find a simple knicker jumpsuit, charming printed sheaths and easy cropped pants. But the spirit of this collection is Barlett’s signature — its quirkiness, reflected by the long gray sweatshirt dress with bold nude insets or an organza bandeau and shorts connected with top to bottom suspenders — not to mention the stockings hanging in front.

Edun: This season marks Sharon Wauchob’s first as creative director of Edun, and for her entrée she delivered a lineup of laid-back pieces with a fluid, layered ease. A crisp white blouse was layered under a breezy silk dress, and long printed dresses draped effortlessly around the body. In men’s, the line’s brand of haute earthy was instilled into a handful of looks, with slouchy pants in organic collections linen or pleated silk, drop-needle tops, crocheted cardigans and a hand-knit suede NEW vest that conveyed a nice sense of craftsmanship and individuality. YORK Tom Scott: Inspired spring ’11 by a 1915 Iowa State University yearbook called “The Bomb,” Tom Scott interpreted Americana sport with retro silhouettes and a palette that ranged from girly to futuristic hues. He was most successful when subverting conventional knitwear. After all, it’s not easy to make old gym shirts look downright feminine, as he did with an open-weave cropped sweater paired with cashmere briefs. Scott turned metallic raffia into a basketball net weave, while other fun knits Edun Edun Isabella Juan included a sweet polka dot Tonchi Carlos cutout T and an asymmetric Obando striped oversize sweater.

Tim Hamilton Redux: Tim Hamilton’s presentations always dissolve into a sloppy party, and maybe that’s the main thrust after all — downtown kids having too much fun. For his contemporary line, Hamilton designed comfy, soft layers of knits that look amply modern and fashionable, thanks to fitted, elongated proportions. Perfect outfits for guys who spontaneously spend their nights on sofas.

Isabella Tonchi: While the shirtdress is showing up on most runways this season, for Isabella Tonchi it was the source of her inspiration — specifically, as she saw it in the work of Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt. And interpretations of that easy classic appeared throughout Tonchi’s terrific collection — long and belted in black-and-white pinstripe; in white cotton under an ivory vest and in tunics over metallic pants. But Tonchi is no one-note designer, and she showed some beautifully cut short halter and corset dresses, as well as crisp suits and dramatic metallic brocade jackets, her own juxtaposition of art and fashion.

Juan Carlos Obando: After Juan Carlos Obando watched the film “Hubble 3D” at the California Science Center, the mysterious, emotional side of space became the foundation for his latest collection, as seen in galaxy prints fashioned into his favored structured shapes. When he innovated with For full runs of show, see pieces like goddess-y sweeping chiffon skirts,

PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY WWD.com/fashion-shows-reviews. the lineup really shone.

16 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 FASHION SCOOPS QVC’S CATCH-UP: Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen of mine and I think it’s important to support the were no-shows at QVC’s postshow party Saturday Asians,” she said of Wang. night, but Christina Ricci made an appearance at Lenny Kravitz, whose daughter Zoë is BFF the Rockefeller Center bash. The actress caught with Wang, had a similar explanation for his up with Angie Harmon, while Denise Richards and presence there. “He’s a friend of the family.” Carmen Electra giggled and bonded while trying And Maggie Gyllenhaal was counting it as one on clothes and accessories from the K-Dash by of her few fashion week appearances. “I like his Kardashian, Dennis Basso and Rachel Zoe lines clothes and they asked me to come so I thought in the pop-up store. Jessica Lowndes arrived in I would,” said the actress.” I’m going to one a Monique Lhuillier cocktail dress that she had more tonight, I’m going to A Détacher. I love scissored off an hour before to lose the gown that shop and I’ve been shopping there forever, look. There was no telling whether she passed and they’re so great those ladies. I usually try to muster with Zoe and Elle’s Joe Zee, who used lay low. I like fashion but these are intense!” the occasion to catch up. LIKE A VIRGIN: “True Blood” actress Deborah AT HOME WITH REEM: Reem Acra is the latest Christina Ann Woll is no longer a fashion show novice designer to be indoctrinated into the affordably Ricci at after attending Prabal Gurung’s presentation priced world of televised shopping. Her new QVC’s after Saturday afternoon. Looking demure in a white collection for HSN, called Reem, will make its party. dress by the designer, Woll was bubbling with debut Sept. 22 and 23 during a series of live excitement. “I can’t believe it. This is like a segments filmed during the finale of HSN’s Fall little girl’s dream come true,” she enthused, Fashion Series Presented by Elle. Acra, who is known for her noting the irony of her outfit considering she plays an eternal elaborate and expensive eveningwear, knew the HSN crowd was virgin, Jessica, on the cult show. “Well, I’m a fashion week not her typical customer. She did her homework: “I watched virgin,” she said, adding of Gurung, “I like that he’s kind of up- HSN night after night for more than a month,” she said. I and-coming and new and I’m kind of new to this world as well. would come to work very tired because I watched too much It felt like the right start. I went online and researched his work HSN.” The result is all daywear ($39-$299) with “a touch of and what he’s done in the past couple of years.” beading, but more comfortable,for entertaining at home.” Seems she’ll have to wait a bit for her next time — Gurung’s will be her only show of the week FALL INTO THE GAP: The original as she’s busy shooting the film gap-toothed model Lauren Hutton “Someday This Pain Will Be Useful almost lost her signature smile early to You,” about “a young boy having on in her career. “Eileen Ford told trouble finding himself in maybe a Naomi Campbell at me she would take me if I fixed my world that wasn’t made for him.” Dolce & Gabbana. nose and my teeth. I said I would as PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY soon as I got the money. Of course, NICOLE’S ENTOURAGE: Perrey Reeves CAMPBELL’S SCOOP: Naomi Campbell has taken her share once I did have enough money I of “Entourage” sat front row in a of knocks in the press and, though she has been known to was working so much I didn’t need multicolored Nicole Miller frock at unleash a few, the supermodel was beyond affable Friday to,” she said during a Q&A with the designer’s show Friday. Reeves night. Before she tore up the sidewalk outside the Dolce & Joan Juliet Buck at Giorgio Armani’s talked of the latest season of the Gabbana store on Madison Avenue with a choreographed Madison Avenue store on Friday. Lauren HBO show, saying, “This season dance surrounded by models wearing T-shirts imprinted Pleased as she is that Lindsey Hutton at has been the most edgy, fun, it’s my with images of her, Campbell chatted up fans while signing Wixson, Jessica Hart and others Giorgio favorite so far. There’s so many more the limited edition tops. Surprisingly, the model welcomed are reviving the look, what really Armani. girls, and the characters are growing questions about her personal life, as Dolce & Gabbana’s delights Hutton is the hundreds up and separating from the pack.” Gabriella Forte gamely handed her shirt after shirt. of people who have stopped her She also divulged that, despite The first matter at hand was her recent courtroom in the street over the years to show off their imperfect grins. her put-together appearance, her life in L.A. is spent mostly appearance at The Hague for Nigerian dictator Charles The actress was not as sunny about how time-consuming her in jeans. “I mean, I love couture, and I never get over it, I Taylor’s trial. “In that instance, I felt like it was my trial. signature makeup business is. Hutton, who used to take six feel like ‘Oh my god I’m a princess!’ But I’m not one of those I really did,” she said. “But you know what? I’m moving months off each year from modeling to travel, said, “I am women who gets dressed up to go to the grocery store,” Reeves on. I did what was asked of me and I am living today and placing it in a small corner. I haven’t had two months off in said, adding that she will also be going to Jill Stuart and every day on my own.” nine years. It’s not how I want to live my life.” Monique Lhuillier. Twenty-five years into her prolific career, Campbell Hutton was candid about other aspects of her life, including Also in the front row was Alison Brie of “Mad Men” rolled her eyes at the prospect of 25 more, but she isn’t a few near-death experiences. “Life is very lush and wet and fame, dressed in a sapphire blue Nicole Miller mini. The about to vanish any time soon. “I love what I do. I am still sexy when you have almost died. That’s how guys get addicted actress was wide-eyed with enthusiasm as she listed the working with all the greats,” she said. “I live one day at to war reporting and things,” she said. “But I haven’t done that names of designers’ shows she would be attending (Diane a time. The things that I have committed to doing in the in nine years.” von Furstenberg, Zac Posen, Charlotte Ronson). “Whenever I future I am looking forward to doing.” More high-minded men including Plato and Caravaggio come, I try to balance between seeing the designers I know As much as she likes to cook (“everything spicy — I’ve would be among the men “she has missed.” As for her friend of and love, and going to new ones and continuing my fashion been carrying around a bottle of hot sauce in my bag for I 32 years, Armani, she sized up his contribution to Italy with, “I education,” she said. Brie admitted she was most excited to don’t know how many years”), don’t bank on her settling always say he should be a living treasure and shouldn’t have to meet von Furstenberg at the company’s Fashion’s Night Out down with her Russian billionaire paramour Vladislav pay tax.” event that evening. Brie was tapped to blog for the brand Doronin anytime soon, even though she mentioned As to how fashion has affected her life, the South Carolina during their party, though she admitted she had “no idea repeatedly that she now lives in Russia. Asked if she was native said, “I think fashion affects everyone’s life. And if you what I’ll write about.” getting married, Campbell said, “No. I didn’t say that — I don’t think it does, you should clean your mirror. Even the Angie Everhart slipped into the wings of the show in a am happy as I am.” affectation of not liking fashion is in fashion right now.” tight-fitting Miller dress right before lights-up and admitted, Could the 40-year-old Campbell, who pals around wistfully, that she missed with Leonardo DiCaprio, be more tempted by Hollywood? EN POINTE: New York City walking the runway. At “To be honest, that would be very hard for me because Ballet’s power couple, the show’s close she said, I have this face that people know. It would have to be a Darci Kistler and Peter “Things are different situation where I was either making fun of myself or acting Martins, certainly know now. We used to have completely different than who I am,” she said. “Any type the lay of the land at personality out there. of challenge is appealing to me — let’s put it that way.” Lincoln Center. With their Now, [the models] are just Though she has crisscrossed the globe for work, there daughter Talicia in tow, walking zombies.” is a “bucket list” with the Nile, Petra, Jordan and Israel they stopped by Gilles at the top. But she is not about to reveal her goals. “I’m Mendel’s uptown boutique ANTIQUITIES BY JEFF not a sayer. I like to show. I don’t like to talk about things Friday night and raved KOONS: Art star Jeff Koons until I’ve done them,” she said. about the hub’s new and his wife, Justine, While the British-born beauty has helped break down fashion front. So who took in Ali Hewson’s Edun barriers, she said, “Diversity on the runways is getting is more temperamental show in a parking garage better. I loved what Anna [Wintour] did the other night with — dancers or under the High Line on the Fashion’s Night Out show. There was such a mix of designers? Martins Saturday. “We’ve been girls from so many different countries and continents. It points to designers. Darci Kistler close friends with Ali was like a rainbow. That’s how it should always be.” “It’s too difficult of a and Peter for many years and we Campbell would not do anything differently given life for dancers to be Martins at love the clothes and love the chance to recast her past. And she squashed any temperamental. It takes J.Mendel. Ali,” said Koons in his rumors of supermodel in-fighting with: “I love my group of too much energy out of measured cadence. He beautiful, amazing ladies that I came up with. We’re all you,” he said. added he is working on a friendly and very warm. We’re like family.” Both dancers talked up the tents but Martins curbed new series of works that should be complete in the next two or In fact, Linda Evangelista is the one who first told his enthusiasm: “It’s very exciting, but you are always 15 three years. “I’ve been calling them ‘Antiquities.’ It’s paintings Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana they needed to meet minutes late.” and sculptures and we’ll probably show some of the paintings Campbell, according to Gabbana, who missed Friday’s in about half a year,” he revealed. Asked if he could divulge festivities due to a bout with the flu. The designers and FRIENDS AND FAMILY: Per usual, Alexander Wang collected an the concept, he noted somewhat opaquely: “When you follow the guest of honor cooked up the T-shirt idea on holiday eclectic and genuine group of fans — read: unpaid — to the your interests, art can take you to a metaphysical place where in the Maldives over New Year’s. “For us, this is like a gift front row of his show Saturday evening. M.I.A. was hugging it time bends and you sort of go into the future and into the past. to celebrate her great career. She is a friend. This is not out with Ryan McGinley, exclaiming, “I miss you. Where have It’s really about making that connection and having that time- about business for us,” Gabbana said. you been?” bend take place as easily as possible for the viewer.” Sounds “It’s the only show I’m going to this year. He’s a good friend compelling — and likely pricy. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 17 WWD.COM

ZAC’S PALS: At the Z Spoke by Zac Posen show, Claire Danes, Shanae Grimes, Carmen Electra, Jaime King, Estelle, Leigh Lezark and Michelle Trachtenberg all set off flashbulbs as they made their way to their front-row perches. Reality TV “bad girl” Kristin Cavallari mugged for the cameras in a prissy floral number from the collection. She said, coming from California, she has to “step it up a little” stylewise when she hits the New York scene. The fashion ingénue is launching a collaboration with ShoeDazzle in the spring, and will be unveiling her own shoe line sometime thereafter. Cavallari was similarly elusive concerning a “major network show appearance,” but insisted she would make a definitive announcement by the end of the month. But the real showstopper was Kimora Lee Simmons, who sauntered in true diva style, unannounced and unRSVPed. Simmons mocked reluctance before sitting next to ex-husband Russell Simmons (whose attendance was also a surprise) and said, “I don’t want to sit next to you. It’s bad for my image.” When asked about her ouster at former company Baby Phat, Kimora Lee Simmons said, “Oh, I am completely gone….Honey they changed the locks on me!” Though she quickly added, “I’m busy with Hello Kitty, Fabulosity.… I’m relaunching KLS. I want to cater to this new generation that’s grown up with me.” Russell Simmons helpfully chimed in regarding Baby Phat: “It’s like a baby that’s all grown up. You have to let it go eventually.”

IN THE PICTURE: Victoria Brynner, daughter of the late Oscar-winning actor Yul Brynner, celebrated her dad’s other passion on Saturday night: photography. Fashion folk including Carine Roitfeld, Tonne Goodman, Nadja Swarovski, Aerin Lauder, Ingrid Sischy, Sandra Brant, Lou Doillon and Elisa Sednaoui packed into the Lehmann Maupin Gallery for a party sponsored by Swarovski and celebrating the opening of “YUL, Yul Brynner: A Photographic Journey.” Roitfeld picked up an image before scooting out to another event. “I got the Salvadore Dalí one — I am very lucky,” she said. Others on display included shots of Elizabeth Taylor sitting poolside, Audrey Hepburn in a gondola and Frank Sinatra getting out of a helicopter with a glass of whiskey in hand. “I remember these moments so well,” said Yul’s wife, Doris Brynner, at Indochine later. “We were on the way to Las Vegas and he [Sinatra] just walked in the helicopter with a glass in his hands.”

SEDNAOUI SHOOTS: Four days into fashion week and it’s already clear that Elisa Sednaoui will be one of this season’s Most Visible Players. But she’s meant to be, she said at Thakoon on Sunday, because she’s reporting for New York magazine. “I’m shooting everything — parties, my friends. It’s going to be my personal diary,” said the model, who had rushed over from closing Diane von Furstenberg’s show. “I love to have a reason, something interesting to do during fashion week.”

NOT ONLY IN NEW YORK: Flanked by Will.i.am, Lisa Love and Anjelica Huston, Los Angeles Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa initiated Fashion’s Night Out at Beverly Center on Friday with a call to action. “Everybody Elisa shop,” he ordered. “I need that city revenue so I Sednaoui in can keep that police protection going.” Huston was Thakoon. game. “I adore fashion. I am an avid shopper,” she said. “It’s wonderful to get out there with a good excuse.” After an around 30-minute fashion show, which featured looks from Bebe, True Religion, J. Lindeberg, Max & Co., Ben Sherman, Guess and more, the shopping masses at Beverly Center complied, scurrying to all corners of the mall from Macy’s on one end to Bloomingdale’s on the other. About two miles away, the Beverly Hills city coffers were certainly getting a boost from FNO revelers on Rodeo Drive, where a Ferris wheel, gourmet food trucks and Samuel L. Jackson holding court at Giorgio Armani were among the main attractions.

OFF THE EDGE: An besuited André Leon Talley took in the Costello & Tagliapietra show at Milk Studios, with the likes of J. Crew president Jenna Lyons and DJ-cum-fashionista Leigh Lezark. Lezark turned talk to her own craft, saying she was excited to make her return to Dunhill that evening for Pop magazine’s Fashion’s Night Out party. “We haven’t been back since the beginning of MisShapes. I’ve always loved doing music,” she said. And one of those embarrassing fashion show moments, it appears Talley fell off his bench seat onto the floor at the show’s end, as a confused shuffle of fashion folk rushed for the exits.

YU’S BIGGER WORLD: Jean Yu’s collaboration with Rag & Bone on Friday isn’t her only fashion week debut. On Wednesday, she introduces a new collection, designed with Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, on the Proenza Schouler runway. Unlike the harness-like underpinnings at Rag & Bone, which featured hardware and backpacklike buckles, this new collection will be in keeping with Yu’s minimal sensibility. In fact, the patterns are lifted straight from her classic triangle bras, simply redone in a variety of colors and materials, some of which are Jean Yu firsts. For example: lace. “I don’t do lace. I find it too decorative and have always avoided it,” said Yu, noting that Proenza Schouler chief executive officer Shirley Cook is a client of hers. “But this was fun to do.” Also in the works for spring: a capsule collection of ready-to-wear basics by the designer, called 180 by Jean Yu.

TRAINA DAY: Having tapped high-profile American socialite-turned-model Vanessa Traina as its latest muse, Maje is the latest French contemporary fashion label looking to crack the U.S. market. Along with its sister brand, Sandro, Maje, which currently has no sales points in the States, is expected to open in several Bloomindale’s doors next spring, along with a flurry of stores, possibly combining the two brands. Overlooking homegrown talent, the brand tapped Traina, daughter of romance novelist Danielle Steel, for its just-released fall campaign. Featuring two visuals lensed by Max Farago in a Parisian apartment, the ad has rolled out in a range of international glossies, including Elle, Vogue and Jalouse. Maje currently counts 156 doors internationally. 18 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 WWD.COM Thierry Mugler Taps Formichetti Continued from page one Thierry Mugler SAS said he would show his fi rst collection for fall 2011, overseeing two newly engaged designers. The format for presenting the revamped lines has yet to be determined. Coty Signs Sébastien Peigné, a 10-year veteran of Balenciaga and head of the studio since 2006, has been named head de- signer of women’s under Formichetti, while Romain Kremer, 28, who has shown experimental looks for Lady Gaga men under his fl edgling Paris label since 2005, will be head designer of men’s. NEW YORK — Lady Gaga, perhaps the “We were looking for a young talent who could re- most sought after and compelling name ally bring new energy to the brand,” stated Joël Palix, in show business these days, has signed president of Clarins Fragrance Group, Mugler’s parent, and a long-term licensing deal with Coty director general of the Mugler company. “Nicola is a multicul- Inc. to create fragrances under her tural, techno-savvy expert involved in fashion, communication, name. image and entertainment. He and the appointed talented de- Stephan Mormoris, senior vice presi- signers will represent a new direction for French fashion. dent of global marketing in the Coty “Thierry Mugler has an incredibly rich heritage, which Beauty division, told WWD exclusively means we must always innovate, create something new, the agreement was hammered out last daring and special,” Palix added. week and the fi rst Lady Gaga women’s To be sure, Formichetti is comfortable in the daring scent is expected to be launched in department as the man behind Gaga’s outrageous stage spring 2012. and video getups, from direct-from-the-runway Alexander Mormoris sees the signifi cance of the McQueen armadillo shoes and custom-made sparkling Lady Gaga deal in cultural terms with bodysuits by Giorgio Armani to a towering hat by architect Frank her appeal and huge following embody- Gehry. His most recent outfi ts for the outré singer were on view ing all age groups worldwide. Describing Sunday night at the MTV Video Music Awards in Los Angeles. her as a “phenomenon,” Mormoris clear- Born in Japan to an Italian father and Japanese mother, ly sees the singer as “a fascinating cul- Formichetti describes his style on his site — next to a photo of him tural force” who is capable of electrify- Lady Gaga at in a sleeveless denim vest and mul- ing the market. the Grammy tiple bracelets doing his best “Cats” Further details of the deal and the fra- Nicola Formichetti Awards. claws-out pose — as the result of grance were unavailable at press time. an “internationally eclectic” — Pete Born upbringing. In addition to his ce- lebrity styling and editor work, Formichetti consults Thierry Mugler looks. for a number of brands, listing among his clients Prada, Costume National, Levi’s and MAC. A spokes- woman for Mugler said he would contin- ue with his editorial and celebrity work. Plenty of stylists have ventured into fashion in recent years, including the likes of Rachel Zoe, L’Wren Scott, Andrea Lieberman and Lori Goldstein. But by hiring someone behind the big- gest music-fashion tsunami since Madonna, EXCLUSIVE Mugler’s choice stands out from most re- cent fashion appointments at major fashion brands: mostly little known second-in-com- mand designers. Formichetti was traveling Sunday and could not be reached for comment. However, in a statement, he told WWD: “Thierry Mugler is about the power of glamour and walking straight into the future. He’s been a god for successive generations in the fashion indus- try. He fused pop and high fashion, told a story in style and com- bined fantasy with reality. My approach is personal and always very eclectic. I’d like to fi nd new ways for a luxury brand such as Thierry Mugler to excite people.” Formichetti certainly has a rich heritage to draw upon, given Mugler’s theatrical shows, some of the most icon- ic of the Eighties, and Mugler’s recent tabloid-worthy shenanigans, including nude photos of his bulked up physique that circulated on the Internet. The founder continues to work on fragrances that bear his name, and has also created costumes for Cirque de Soleil. In 2009, he served as the creative adviser for Beyoncé Knowles’ “I Am… Sasha Fierce” world tour. Strasbourg, France-born Mugler trained as a classi- cal dancer, and founded his namesake fashion house in 1974 at age 25, earning fast acclaim for his futuris- tic and hyper-feminine designs. Along with Jean Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana, he helped electrify Paris in the Eighties with his sculptural designs and theatrical shows starring the likes of Jerry Hall and every supermodel who looked good in a catsuit. He also earned acclaim as a photographer and went on to create a series of successful scents with Clarins, staring in 1992 with Angel, a blockbuster which endures as one of the world’s top-selling fragrances. However, Mugler’s fashions lost momentum and resonance in the minimalist Nineties and, in 2003, Clarins shuttered the money-losing fashion business, selling its remaining four stores and Anger, France-based factory to Balmain. Mugler licensed out its men’s wear, fi rst to Tombolini Group, transferring the license earlier this year to anoth- er Italian fi rm, Inghirami, but it focused mostly on build- ing its fragrance portfolio, creating Alien in 2005, and fol- lowing up this year with Womanity. Lady Gaga’s Mugler quietly resuscitated its women’s wear line in stylist has 2008, tapping Rosemary Rodriguez, a Mugler alum who had been named previously been at Paco Rabanne, as creative director for at Thierry women’s wear and men’s wear. Mugler. $05&3*&

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cynthia oconnor + company new york los angeles 212 594 4999 [email protected] www.cocandco.com

22 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 WWD.COM Accessories Report Expectations High at Biennale des Antiquaires By Katya Foreman “[The Biennale] has a status and a cachet that al- lows these jewelers to do something special; it’s rather PARIS — Judging by the caliber of events in store important to them,” confirmed organizer Hervé Aaron, for jewelry clients attending the 25th edition of the president of the National Antique Dealers Association, Biennale des Antiquaires at the Grand Palais here adding that several tables have been reserved by hous- this week, it’s set to be a sparkling affair. es for the event’s gala dinner tonight. Aaron disclosed Jewelers predict a solid client turnout and he had heard of at least two companies that are plan- strong demand for their exclusive creations ning to fly in clients from the Middle East. at the event, which opens on Wednesday for “It’s become an unmissable event for us. It one week. The Biennale takes place every concentrates over a short period of time a two years. big number of clients around a collection,” “The market is quite strong, let’s face said Philippe it. We expect to sell more than we did Mougenot, president of Chanel’s watch two years ago,” said Bernard Fornas, and jewelry division, who likened the president and chief executive officer of Biennale’s impressive setting to an exqui- Cartier International SA, which has invit- site jewelry box or stately museum. The ed 250 top clients from around the world. house, which has organized a dinner The house’s broad collection will include and baroque concert for clients at the precious decorative objects and panther Château de Versailles’ Le Théâtre de la pieces carved from petrified wood or white Reine, will present its plume-themed opal. As real estate and stock exchange val- jewelry collection. ues seesaw, clients have come to regard fine “It’s great to be able to present jewelry as a rock-solid investment, Fornas alongside modern art galleries, say, as said. “People’s [perceptions] of fine jewelry opposed to showing alone or with other have changed. They don’t necessarily buy for jewelers,” echoed Nicolas Bos, vice pres- investment, but on top of the pleasure and ident and worldwide creative director of emotion, there’s an investment connotation which Van Cleef & Arpels, who is also president and is maybe stronger than it was 10 years ago.” ceo of the jeweler’s Americas division. The house figures among seven fine jewelers Bos described the house’s Les Voyages participating in the art fair, nestled among major Extraordinaires collection, inspired by 19th players from the art and antiques worlds. These in- century science fiction author Jules Verne, clude Chanel Joaillerie, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry as the highpoint of the year for its fine jew- Winston, Dior Joaillerie and first-time participants elry business, offering exposure to a public Louis Vuitton and Piaget. The jewelry zone measures outside of its usual clientele. A hot air balloon and around 5,000 square feet. fantasy submarine will form part of the house’s set On a par with the last session, around 80,000 visi- this year, designed by Argentine theater director A hot air balloon from Van Cleef & Arpels’ tors are expected to attend the Biennale, which for Alfredo Arias. Four new rings will also be unveiled Biennale set, designed by Alfredo Arias. jewelry brands represents an increasingly important at the event, including the sea-inspired Hydôr ring Left: A platinum and diamond brooch from rendezvous for driving business, drawing a number featuring spiraling diamonds and blue sapphires Chanel Joaillerie’s Biennale collection. of major clients from across the globe. around a 20.04-carat oval Ceylon sapphire.

 Some things should never change.

Claudette APRIL 18, 1985 Colbert, CLAUDETTE, 1985 CLARK AND CLAIROL HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CLAUDETTE Colbert! The actress would have turned 107 today. The native of France, who moved to New York as a kid, initially set out to be- come a fashion designer when she took a bit part in the 1923 play “The Wild Westcotts.” Two years later, she fully yielded to the lights of the Great White Way, getting her big break in the 1927 show “The Barker,” in which she played a snake charmer. Though PHOTO BY WWD ARCHIVE PHOTO BY she was likely costumed in a sexy and exotic getup — aren’t all snake charmers? — WWD ran a por- trait of Colbert, in a promo for the play, looking quite the Twenties 6\Y JSPLU[Z RUV^ [OL` JHU YLS` VU [OLPY YLSH[PVUZOPW ^P[O 4PSILYN -HJ[VYZ girl in long pearl strands and a graphic-print dress — her signa- >L^VYRL]LY`KH`[VWYV]PKL[OLJYLKP[Z\WWVY[[OH[LHJOVULULLKZ-YVT  ture bangs not yet in place. The following year, her photo ran again, [V[VKH`V\YÄYTOHZWYV]PKLKMHJ[VYPUNHUKÄUHUJPUNZLY]PJLZ[OH[HYLZVSPK this time tied to the play “The Ghost Train.” (By then, she had ex- Z[YHPNO[MVY^HYKHUKMV\UKLKVUHUVSKMHZOPVULKWYVTPZL!^OLU`V\ULLK\Z changed the wavy bob for a slight ’fro.) Fast forward to 1985. After decades spent as one of the top screw- ^LHYL[OLYL ball actresses of Hollywood’s Golden Age, Colbert appeared again on the New York stage in “Aren’t We All?” with Rex Harrison. Seven years >L WSHJL NYLH[ ]HS\L VU V\Y I\ZPULZZ YLSH[PVUZOPWZ 0U IV[O IVVT [PTLZ HUK earlier, the two had co-starred in the play “The Kingfisher.” “We only WLYPVKZVMJOHSSLUNL^LZ[H`JVTTP[[LK[VV\YJSPLU[ZHUK[V[OLPYL]VS]PUNULLKZ met at parties. We never worked together,” said Colbert in an inter- view with WWD that April. “Suddenly, here in — shall we call them our 4PSILYN-HJ[VYZPZZVSPKS`I\PS[KLKPJH[LK[VZLY]PJLHUKMVJ\ZLKVU[OLSVUN later years? — we’ve almost become a team.” Of course, the Astaire to [LYT0M`V\»KSPRL[VSLHYUTVYLNP]L\ZHJHSS her Rogers was, most famously, Clark Gable. “It was male incarnate, you know,” she recalled. “My husband always said the only man he would ever forgive me leaving him for would have been Gable.” Colbert, dressed in a crisp white Adolfo suit paired with pearls, Milberg Factors, Inc. had plenty to discuss about fashion, too. “Before Adolfo came into my life,” she proclaimed, “I had Chanel. What they’re doing today with A Tradition of Entrepreneurial Finance these exaggerated shoulders and the big floppy looks, unless you’re 5 foot 10 and weigh 110 pounds, you should stay away from that kind of thing. Most women I’ve seen who do try to wear it and shouldn’t, look www.milbergfactors.com like bag ladies. I tried on something just the day before yesterday, and I swear to you, I thought, ‘Well, who will I tackle?’” As for her hair, in a Nancy Reagan-esque crop, Colbert noted she still cut and colored it herself — and always had. “Every time I Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 talk about [letting my hair go gray],” she said, “all my friends start Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 screaming. So every three weeks, I dive into the Clairol.” ©2010 Milberg Factors, Inc. — Venessa Lau www.blackglama.com 24 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 WWD.COM BEAUTY BEAT Fulerton Offering One-Stop Nail Shopping LONDON — Andrea Fulerton the line features four Flip Flop French Millie Kendall, one half of the duo behind the Ruby & knows that creating the perfect sets, which comprise two colors meant to Millie and Scarlett & Crimson beauty brands, acts as Andrea manicure can be a nail-biting be worn in the style of a French manicure. Fulerton Nail Boutique’s brand development manager. experience for a nonprofession- Rather than traditional hues of white and — Brid Costello al. That’s why the nail guru has pale pink, however, the duos come in poppy developed Andrea Fulerton Nail red and sheer iridescent pink. French man- Boutique, a 78-unit line of pol- icure sets and “Peel Off Varnish” are also ishes and manicure tools meant part of the line, as are a number of nail art Macy’s Expanding Impulse Beauty to be fun and functional. items, including nail tattoos, gems and glit- MACY’S INC.’S OPEN-SELL CONCEPT FEATURING “I noticed wherever I went ter dust. Seasonal items will be added at niche beauty brands is gaining ground. Next year, that there were no one-stop nail regular intervals, too. Macy’s will outfit 50 additional stores with the concept, boutiques,” said Fulerton, who is There are also 10 nail preparation units called Impulse Beauty, bringing its chainwide total to a regular on editorial shoots and — including nail files, nail polish remover 104 store-in-store boutiques. backstage at fashion shows. and an undercoat, plus finishing items, such The department store said that, by next month, a “I wanted professional nail as a cuticle oil and three types of topcoat. total of 54 Macy’s stores will feature the Impulse Beauty [products] that I use in my Instructions are displayed on product department, which coexists with beauty counters and everyday world — prepping packaging, which was designed to make includes trained advisers. Currently, 49 stores include nails for celebs and maga- nail grooming simple. Polish bottles are the concept, measuring about 1,000 square feet in size. It zines — to be readily available long and narrow, for instance, which makes features a host of cosmetics, skin care and hair care lines, for the girl out there that loves them easier to hold, according to Fulerton. including, but not limited to, Bare Escentuals, Benefit, a bit of nail art.” Prices will range from 1.99 pounds, or Cargo, Dior, Laura Geller, Philosophy, Smashbox, Stila, The brand comprises a $3.08 at current exchange, for a Miracle Bliss, Clarisonic, Dr. Brandt and T3. Macy’s plans to tailor plethora of quirky products Nail Buffer, to 7.99 pounds, or $12.36, for a the assortment to each store location. meant to make decorating digits Trio. Individual bottles of color will retail “Impulse Beauty is a beauty destination geared toward a snap. The line’s color stock- at 4.99 pounds, or $7.72. a trend-wise customer,” stated Muriel Gonzalez, executive keeping units, for instance, in- Andrea Fulerton Nail Boutique prod- vice president and general manager for cosmetics, fra- clude Trios, dual-ended items ucts will be merchandised together on grance and shoes. “The new collection of fresh, contempo- comprising two bottles of nail freestanding display units when they rary niche brands, which are not traditionally associated polish that can be worn alone or launch in Superdrug stores in the U.K. in with department stores, along with our established beauty layered to create a third color. September. counters, provide Macy’s customers with a wide assortment Fulerton said she was inspired by An Andrea “[Within major high street retail stores, of product to choose from for all of their beauty needs.” plaid patterns, a recurring theme Fulerton Nail nail] color was within makeup and treatment The retailer began testing Impulse Beauty in three for the brand, when designing the Boutique Trio was within the beauty category,” she said. “I doors last year, as an answer to a growing crop of open- product as well as the “wow” factor and display. wanted to create a unit that would fuse them sell beauty retailers, ranging from Sephora to Ulta and, in she believes customers will feel when together as they should be in one place.” the mass market, the upscale concepts of CVS Pharmacy’s they transform their nails. The line will also be carried in some department Beauty 360 and Duane Reade’s Look Boutique. There are also 24 5.5-ml. bottles of stores in the U.K. International launch plans have yet The move marks Macy’s biggest departure yet from polish, many of which sport the first to be confirmed. Industry sources estimate the brand its long-held tradition of selling mega nameplates from names of celebrities Fulerton has either will generate first-year retail sales upward of 2 million behind glass counters. worked with or is inspired by. In addition, pounds, or $3.1 million. — Molly Prior

jk THE MAGAZINE FROM THE WALL STREET JOURNAL

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To find out more about WSJ., the magazine from The Wall Street Journal, contact: Sophie Raptis, Publisher, [email protected] or your WSJ. sales representative. Photo from WSJ.’s September 2010 issue. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 25 WWD.COM Financial Michael Kors’ Big Plans for the East By Amanda Kaiser and vibrant fashion market,” the executive said at an in- Kors Collection and the Michael Michael Kors brands, terview at the new Michael Kors Japan showroom in the but he said handbags, footwear and other accessories TOKYO — Michael Kors is embarking on an ambitious heart of Harajuku. “We view this opportunity as being account for 65 percent of the total. growth plan for Asia as the fashion house hits the $1 bil- perfect timing for our company.” The executive said the company, unlike scores of other lion threshold in annual sales. Two weeks ago, the company opened its first store on luxury goods players, has not experienced a downturn John Idol, chief executive officer of Michael Kors, Omotesando Avenue selling Michael Kors Collection ac- in the current macroeconomic climate. He attributed said the American house plans to open five to seven cessories as well as the Michael Michael Kors diffusion that success to a combination of Kors’ trend-savvy talent, freestanding retail stores, 50 accessories shop-in-shops, range of apparel and accessories. craftsmanship and “approachable luxury” positioning. and an undetermined number of apparel shop-in-shops Idol said Michael Kors will do $1 billion in business “If you start worrying about the economy, the compe- in Japan over the next three years. The first batch of this year and specified the figure includes the company’s tition, you lose your focus,” he said. these will open between February and April and the consolidated sales as well as a “small” amount of licens- In line with that thinking, Idol said he’s not concerned designer, famous for his sportswear and his turn as a ing revenue. He declined to give a comparable figures for with the fact that the luxury market in Japan is stagnant “Project Runway” judge, is expected to pay a visit here 2009, but said the business was about $17 million seven at best. He said he expects the brand’s quality and reason- sometime in the spring. years ago, when he joined the company as ceo and became able pricing strategy will resonate will consumers here. The company also plans to open a Shanghai flagship, a part owner alongside Silas Chou and Lawrence Stroll. When stating his case, Idol picked up a pink ceramic its first store in China, in fall 2011 and open another The executive said 65 percent of the $1 billion is gen- watch, which retails for 63,000 yen, or $752, in Japan. 40 to 50 corners and freestanding stores in the country erated in the U.S. and the balance is international. He “This is as good as any ceramic watch in the world,” over the next three years, he said. did not break down the business in terms of the Michael he said.

Client

Michael Kors in Tokyo. loyalty? Idol explained the house wanted to regain full control of its Japanese business and establish its own image here before moving Let’s talk. on to China. At the end of this year, the brand’s licensing deal with Onward Kashiyama will expire. I have been a CIT client for “Japan is still a very exciting 16 years. CIT provides fast online OBITUARY credit approvals and flexible Michael Belluomo, 64 financing that has helped my MICHAEL BELLUOMO, THE company grow. Recently, three former editor, associate pub- different factors tried to get my lisher and owner of Sportswear International and sister publica- business. I said no to all of them.” tion In Fashion, and former exec- utive editor of California Apparel KC HUANG, Ph.D. News, has died. He was 64. PRESIDENT AND OWNER Belluomo died of undiagnosed WEEKENDZ OFF )DVKLRQIRUWKH&DVXDO/LIH metastasized cancer, according to his widow, Catherine Belluomo. In addition to his publishing roles, Belluomo served as president of Map Media Services, a media marketing and public relations con- sulting firm specializing in casual CIT is the nation’s leading factor and sportswear and the jeans market. lender to the apparel industry. A former Golden Glove boxer, What’s the secret to our success? Belluomo was also a Vietnam Deep and long-standing relationships veteran. “He was an avid read- with clients like Weekendz Off, a er, a major Yankees fan and an Los Angeles-based supplier of casual extremely generous and giving man,” said Catherine Belluomo. sportswear. We provide fast credit In addition to his wife, Belluomo decisions, flexible financing solutions and is survived by three daugh- the support that clients need to grow their ters: Grainne Belluomo, Emma businesses during all economic cycles. Belluomo and Tallie Belluomo. Want to talk about how CIT Commercial Services will be held at the Services can begin a long-term Frank E. Campbell Funeral relationship with your company? Chapel at 1076 Madison Avenue on Tuesday. The family will receive Visit us at cit.com or call 800-248-3240. visitors beginning at 1:30 p.m., fol- lowed by a 3 p.m. memorial service. In lieu of flowers, the fam- ily is requesting donations to the National Military Family Credit Protection QWorking Capital Association, a nonprofit organiza- Factoring QImport/Export Financing tion committed to strengthening Debt Restructuring QGrowth Financing and protecting the families of the men and women currently serv- ing, retired, wounded or fallen. — Julie Naughton © 2010 CIT Group Inc. CIT and the CIT logo are registered service marks of CIT Group Inc. 26 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 WWD.COM Financial Brooks Brothers Taps Paulette Garafolo Cutler and Gross By Jean E. Palmieri “We plan to leverage her experience.” In Eyewear Deal He noted that her role at Brooks “is crucial to our NEW YORK — Brooks Brothers is bolstering its man- overall development.” agement team by adding industry veteran Paulette Garafolo said she wasn’t looking to change jobs, but With Margiela Garafolo in the newly created position of president of Del Vecchio convinced her to make the switch. international, wholesale and manufacturing. “Claudio and I have been colleagues in the same in- Garafolo, currently chief executive officer of Bally dustry for a number of years,” she said. “We’ve shared North America, will start her new job at the retailer information and have a lot of common ground. He told next month. me he was thinking of restructuring and looking for Before joining Bally a year ago, Garafolo spent someone to oversee the areas he wanted to expand. And 11 years at Hartmarx Luxury Group, first as ceo and they happen to be my expertise.” group president of Hickey Freeman and Bobby Jones, She called Brooks “a solid company that I admire and then the entire group, which included Hart and respect. It’s such an incredible brand and to be Schaffner Marx. part of the management team is a great opportunity.” “We like her very much,” said Brooks Brothers ceo She added she was not expecting to leave Bally, Claudio Del Vecchio. “We can’t wait for her to come on Paulette calling her impending departure “bittersweet, but this board.” He pointed to her background at Hartmarx, in- Garafolo is a once in a lifetime opportunity. If it wasn’t Brooks cluding its manufacturing facilities, as key to the hire. Brothers, I wouldn’t have considered it.” Be Inthavong Launching Handbag Line

By Lauren Benet Stephenson resources, just trying to turn a dollar” to focusing on craft and product first. BE INTHAVONG, CO-FOUNDER AND FORMER DE- The collection, unveiled last week, contains 40 signer of luxury handbag line Be & D, is venturing A look from pieces in nine styles, including a tote, a top handle out on his own with a namesake line of woven leather Be Inthavong. bag, a shoulder satchel and a small clutch. The hand- handbags. worked fabric is lightweight, durable and “smooth The leather is handcrafted in Laos, where like silk,” he said. Inthavong was born, using a patented weaving tech- Inthavong anticipates the line will be sold at nique on silk looms. Laos has a history 10 to 20 specialty boutiques, priced from $595 of creating hand-loomed silks, and to $3,295. He hopes it will be embraced by Inthavong’s family has maintained a silk “a customer who understands craft. [This weaving business for generations. consumer is] underserved, they’re not into After immigrating to the U.S., trendy things. They want something very Inthavong had an aversion to the silk unique, something that no one else has. looming business. “I grew up in Texas, The economy is teaching designers to up the and I was trying so hard to fit in,” he said. ante…it’s a reshift of what our perception of “Anything Laotian, I thought…I’ll never do manufacturing and luxury and price is.” that.” Inthavong is working to develop a manu- But Inthavong returned to his artisanal facturing foothold in Laos by acquiring addi- roots after the “soul searching” that followed tional silk looms and training Laotians in his Looks from Maison Martin Margiela’s his split last year with design and business patented technique. One of his goals is to cre- sunglasses collection. partner Steve Dumain, who now ate a sustainable source of employ- owns and designs Be & D. ment for Laotians. “To stand up and By Miles Socha “I’ve always wanted to work with try to help promote the local-ness my homeland,” he said. “I love New of things…it’s important,” he said. PARIS — Two cutting-edge York, I love fashion, but I wanted [This consumer is] underserved, Inthavong acknowledged he names in fashion — Maison something more long term and “ has not yet cobbled together an in- Martin Margiela and Cutler more meaningful.” they’re not into trendy things. They frastructure to handle extensive and Gross — are finally seeing Referring to his work at Be & D, demand. “I don’t know what I’ve eye-to-eye. Inthavong said: “It was a lesson to want something very unique. gotten myself into.…If the world On Wednesday, Paris-based me as a designer, [going from] design- —” Be Inthavong came [to buy], I couldn’t accom- Margiela said it signed an eye- ing for a price, trying to find cheaper modate them,” he said. wear license with the London optical firm for a collection that will be unveiled at the Silmo trade fair here later this month and hit counters in November at Margiela boutiques and se- lect Cutler and Gross sales points. Also expect sightings at Margiela’s fashion show here Oct. 1. It’s the first licensing pact for Cutler and Gross, and Margiela’s first in the hot prod- uct category. Terms were not disclosed, but the agreement is described as multiyear, covering sunglasses only. Margiela took its first step into eyewear two years ago by introducing its Incognito style, which resembles a black cen- sor bar. The style, and a handful of other models, was produced under a production agreement with Marcolin. The first licensed collec- tion, to be handmade in Italy, will comprise two groups: one dubbed Anatomic and focused on large, enveloping shapes; and the other Wrong Size, with purposely ill-fit- ting lenses. Prices have not been final- ized but are expected to be in line with styles currently in stores, which range from about 350 to 450 euros, or $445 to $575 at current exchange rates. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2010 27 WWD.COM MEMO PAD Prada Takes Complete this country,” said Rogers, adding, “Really being close to the GAME ON: Unlike during her White House tenure, Desirée Rogers artists is always important to me, even though I took big heat was in a particularly chatty mood in the front row of the Jason for it.” — Vanessa Lawrence Control Over Car Shoe Wu show Friday afternoon. Seated across the runway from the requisite starlets in attendance (Diane Kruger, Elisa Sednaoui PUSHY OR PRECOCIOUS? Halfway through the interview process By Luisa Zargani and Katie Cassidy) and wearing her own Lanvin jersey dress with Tavi Gevinson, The New Yorker’s Lizzie Widdicombe instead of one of Wu’s designs (“I love his eveningwear”), discovered that the pint-size fashion blogger had hired her first MILAN — Prada SpA has taken full control of Rogers was clearly projecting a down-to-business demeanor and publicist. It was a sign the 14-year-old was ready to assume footwear and accessories brand Car Shoe. with good reason: The former White House Social Secretary was grown-up dimensions. For the magazine’s latest Style issue, “We believe the brand can be developed inter- recently named chief executive officer of the Chicago-based out today, Widdicombe visited Gevinson at home in suburban nationally,” said Stefano Cantino, group commu- Johnson Publishing, owner of Ebony and other titles, whose Chicago, at her school and on the road. She also observed nications director, pointing to a retail expansion ranks she had joined earlier in the summer as a consultant. fashion’s rock star, Karl Lagerfeld, speaking to Gevinson that will add “impulse and identity” to Car Shoe. “[My] major goal is to take a look following his Chanel couture show in Paris. “She has a fresh In addition to the Milan, Rome and Capri Desirée at the trends and just see everything eye,” he said to the camera (for a Canadian TV show). “She’s stores, a boutique opened in Singapore in Rogers obviously and really to just kind of get not ruined by zillions of bad collections.” And some magazine March. Another new venue will be unveiled in to know the scene a little bit better. editors such as Teen Vogue editor in chief Amy Astley even envy October in Hong Kong at the Elements mall. We really are enlarging our space her touch. “Sometimes I say to my staff, ‘Wow, I had more fun There are 250 points of sale that carry the in Ebony in the fashion and beauty reading the blog of this teenager than reading professional copy brand globally. Cantino declined to provide segments, so we really want to be that we wrote.” sales figures for Car Shoe. current, we want to have the best Gevinson is courting a certain reader for her Style Rookie Prada first bought a 51 percent stake in the stuff, we want to be a little edgy, so blog, more i-D and Pop than those that watch, say, “The Oprah label from founder Antonio Moretti in spring I’ve got to be here to see everything Winfrey Show” (which she’s turned down) or “Good Morning 2001. The Car Shoe trademark was first regis- and meet everybody,” explained America.” “I guess that’s just not a crowd whose eyes I want tered in the early Sixties and is known for its Rogers of her fashion week presence, on me,” she said. But apparently she does want the readers pebble-soled driving shoes, which originally which will include stops at Rodarte, of Harper’s Bazaar. She accepted an assignment from the appealed to professional race-car drivers and Thakoon, Calvin Klein, Diane von magazine to review the spring collections, a fact that irked later became fashion accessories. At the time Furstenberg and possibly Chado Elle’s Anne Slowey. “Is it gimmicky to hire a 13-year-old au of the acquisition, Prada’s chief executive of- Ralph Rucci. Ebony has quite the courant ‘sensation’ to write about fashion when the mean age of ficer Patrizio Bertelli touted the uniqueness of fashion legacy to uphold, considering your reader is over 40? Maybe.” While Joe Zee added, “Let’s say the shoes, and the purchase was seen as a jab the late Eunice Johnson, a co-creator Tavi’s 14, versus someone like Cathy Horyn” — of the Times — at Tod’s chairman and ceo Diego Della Valle, of the magazine with her husband, “who’s done this for x amount of years and can say, ‘When I was given the past thorny relationship between the John, and of the successful traveling at the Galliano show ten years ago, this is how it was.’ Tavi can’t two entrepreneurs, who clashed in 1999 over Ebony Fashion Fair, was also a huge say that, because she was 4 ten years ago.” control of British shoemaker Church & Co., couture collector. Be that as it may, Gevinson is used to having detractors, which was eventually bought by Bertelli. Last “We’re looking at bringing [the and it’s not affecting her ability to get ahead, it seems. She was year, Prada, which also controls the Prada and fair] back,” said Rogers, who will be hired as a stylist for a BlackBook shoot. And her publicist has Miu Miu brands, raised its stake in Car Shoe to making the fashion week rounds for been charged with getting advertising for her blog. Gevinson 55 percent. the first time in a media capacity after sitting front row a few submitted a list of preferred design houses (Marc Jacobs, Propelled by a 41 percent increase in retail seasons ago as a White House emissary. Though she doesn’t see Prada, Balenciaga, Lanvin) and the publicist is proposing sales, Prada said consolidated revenues rose 29 much difference in her mind-set now versus her previous White banner-ad deals as well as less traditional forms of advertising. percent in the first half ended July 31 to more House persona, her stylish appearances earned her plenty of “She crossed over into becoming a product,” said articles than 930 million euros, or $1.2 billion. Dollar flack. editor Susan Morrison. “She’s suddenly not this strange little amounts have been converted at average ex- “It’s enjoyable, but to me it’s always been about the kid anymore. Even while we were working on the piece, we change for the period to which they refer. business as well and being in tune with what is happening from watched her pictures on the blog: She went from a kid to this In July, Prada negotiated a three-year loan a design perspective,” she said. “Whether it’s organizing events curvaceous, young teenager.” agreement of 360 million euros, or $474 million or creating a magazine or beauty product, you have to see what Also in the issue: an interview with J. Crew’s Mickey Drexler at current exchange, which will partially go to- the trends are, you have to see what people are doing, you need and a conversation with Mark Zuckerberg of Facebook. “He’s so ward funding the company’s retail growth. to be around creative people to see what’s happening on the private, so to go to his house, meet his girlfriend, you will see a The group is once again mulling an initial front end. And so hiding out in an office to me was never a way picture of Zuckerberg that is very different than the one that will public offering, this time for the first quarter to see everything, be able to represent what was happening in be in “The Social Network,” said Morrison. — Amy Wicks of 2012.

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE DESIGNER Charles Garnier - Paris MEN’S ACCESSORIES Major women’s apparel mfg. located in a luxury designer jewelry brand since Luxury men’s accessories brand seeks New York City is seeking a fashion 1901 with current world headquarters freelance salesperson to represent the designer. Candidate must be a fast located in Los Angeles, California, is collection and establish accounts for and detailed at sketching as well as actively seeking a National Sales Di- growing private label division. Send having a strong knowledge of fabrics rector and three (3) Account Execu- resumes to: [email protected] and garment construction. Must have tives for the US and Caribbean. good communication skills and be Showrooms & Lofts The ideal candidates will have a mini- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS detailed oriented. Candidate must be dependable, flexible and able to work mum of 5 years working with a luxury, Great ’New’ Office Space Avail designer or fine jewelry brand. Addi- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 in a fast paced environment while multitasking. Knowledge of Adobe tionally, they must have a proven Illustrator is must. Email resumes to: track record of sales, account manage- [email protected] ment, prospecting, CRM and strong working knowledge of competitive landscapes. Must be willing to travel extensively throughout the assigned Production Coordinator territory. Modern American Handbag Designer If you are interested in joining a world is looking for an organized self starter renowned jeweler, please contact us at to help manage their growing busi- [email protected] or 213-892- ness. Candidate must have minimum 0075 X 118. of 5 years experience in cost negotia- tions, sourcing and product knowledge of handbags and SLG’s. Proficient in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Excel and experience with AS400 a PRODUCTIONS MUST. Please include the job title in All line, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. the subject line. Include a cover letter, Call Sherry 212-719-0622 resume and salary requirement to [email protected]. We are an EOE with great benefits. VIRTUAL SAMPLES / DESIGN Call Shima Seiki USA at 212-391-4020 SOURCING MGR ...... $130-150K or email [email protected] Underwear, swimwear A Must. for more details. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 [email protected] FAIRCHILD CLASSIFIED IS NOW SELF SERVICE! To place a print ad, go to www.fairchildclassified.com For online-only recruitment ads, go to wwdcareers.com