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Home , Liwonde National Park, Mangochi

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lush lowland overload ’s National Park

Text & photographs martin benadie >

Liwonde National Park is blessed with a striking diversity of habitats, the impressive , and a bird list of more than 350 species. dana allen 37 Think of Malawi and On first seeing the smooth-as-glass more than likely the im- river, I was struck by its immens­ mense Rift Valley lake ity – it’s up to a kilometre wide in that dominates the coun- places – by the sheer number of birds in, on and around it, and by try will come to mind. the simple tranquillity of the scene. But there’s far more to The whole area has a tropi- this landlocked nation. cal vibe that is enhanced by the Away from , stunning groves of palms and fever trees along the river. Goli- most of the wildlife sanc- ath Herons, Saddle-billed Storks, tuaries have a low-key Spur-winged Lapwings, African charm, are not overrun Jacanas and African Openbills with visitors and make typically adorn the riverbanks, ideal destinations for African Skimmers, Western Os- preys and flocks of Gull-billed birders. One such reserve and Whiskered terns fly past, is Liwonde National Park and among the various shorebird in the south of the coun- and waterfowl species a hawk- try, which hosts about ing Blue-cheeked Bee-eater of- 350 of the 648 or so ten provides a splash of colour. The riverside palms are generally bird species recorded in packed with breeding colonies of Be warned, though making Liwonde the only reliable above Livingstone’s Malawi. Birders who have White-breasted Cormorant, with – the Liwonde site for this species in Malawi. Flycatcher is surpris- not yet travelled north of the occasional Red-necked Fal- It’s also in this habitat that you’ll ingly common in experience is a the Zambezi can expect con, Dickinson’s Kestrel or Palm- find my two Liwonde favour- Liwonde. nut Vulture perched in a tree-top. sensory overload, ites: the delicate Livingstone’s lifers here – lots of them. Our days in Liwonde were a head-spinning Flycatcher and the sought-after opposite The park’s spent birding by boat and ex- Böhm’s Bee-eater. The flycatcher habitat is ideal for bombardment of Liwonde’s location in the ploring the park’s tapestry of occurs in busy groups and can > Dickinson’s Kestrel. low-lying Shire Valley, one of habitats and ecotones by vehicle birds complement- Malawi’s top birding spots and and on foot, including the Shire’s ed by a wonderful indeed one of Africa’s finest, is extensive floodplains and river- array of mammals key to its high bird diversity. In ine fringe, as well as the mopane this tropical lowland, miombo, woodland away from the river. Be the next, depending on the soil tanzania deciduous thicket and mopane warned, though – the Liwonde type and availability of water: in Lake Malawi woodland form a multi-textured experience is a sensory overload, some places along the river there mosaic, with numerous baobabs a head-spinning bombardment are almost pure stands of boras- punctuating the landscape and of birds complemented by a won- sus palms, whereas other areas prehistoric-looking candelabra derful array of mammals. contain mixed groves of species zambia trees providing a backdrop. such as fever, fig, mangosteen, A particularly rewarding way to nowing something about mahogany, sausage, false thorn arrive at the park is by boat from the vegetation of a birding and river cluster-leaf trees. The Liwonde town. The 30-kilometre spot generally enhances understorey includes lianas of im- trip along the Shire River offers an Kyour experience there, as you pressive proportions, and dense malawi excellent opportunity to become have a much better idea of which thicket grows where the riverine L lilongwe acquainted with the local birds birds will be found among certain forest borders woodland. in the ever-changing scenery and plants. For me, the richest and Enter this riverine forest (it’s vegetation. most interesting vegetation type easily accessed on the western Liwonde NP Liwonde The Shire, along with its riparian in Liwonde is the semi-deciduous bank of the Shire, opposite Mvuu mozambique habitat on both banks, is promi- riverine forest, which runs in a Lodge) and you’ll find that the Shire nent along the western boundary band between five and 100 metres richness of its flora is matched of the park and forms part of Li- wide along the banks of the per- by its birdlife. Quinine trees Zambezi wonde for more than 40 kilometres ennial Shire and its seasonal trib- flourish here, supporting a good of its 402-kilometre journey from utaries. The composition of this population of the highly local- zimbabwe Lake Malawi to the Zambezi River. forest varies from one location to ised Brown-breasted Barbet and

july/august 2015 liwonde national park 39 more proved to be first or second tend to move around in mixed- above The shy White- records for Malawi. species foraging groups. Seasonal backed Night Heron pools develop in the mopane belt frequents overhanging oving away from the after good rains and here Green, riverine vegetation. Shire and its flood- Wood and Pectoral sandpipers plain, the central and may be seen. More reliably, el- below The sought- Meastern parts of Liwonde, espe- evated bird hides have been built after Western Banded cially the 4 200-hectare Rhino next to several of the waterholes Snake Eagle occurs Sanctuary, are characterised by in the Rhino Sanctuary and they in Liwonde’s riverine beautiful, cathedral-like mopane make for a pleasant birding stop forest. woodland. Often adorned with or two. Small, noisy flocks of epiphytic orchids, this is the main Grey-headed Parrots are typically vegetation type of Liwonde and seen in the early mornings as > covers 70 per cent of the park. It holds a different assemblage of Mopane woodland is be surprisingly common if you Spectacled Weaver, Collared Moving away from they are alive with breeding South- birds, of which the most obvi- the main vegetation know its habits and call, while Sunbird, Brown-headed Parrot, the Shire ... the cen- ern Brown-throated Weavers. On ous and colourful are chattering the bee-eater is unusual in that it Purple-crested Turaco, Trum- my most recent visit, a surprise flocks of Near-threatened Lilian’s type of Liwonde, and tral and eastern covers about 70 per nests in level ground (see African peter Hornbill, Western Banded flock of Magpie Mannikins repre- Lovebird. cent of the park. Birdlife, January/February 2015, Snake Eagle, Green Malkoha and parts of Liwonde ... sented a new species for my per- Other species of the mopane pages 22–24). African Emerald Cuckoo. Species are characterised sonal park list. woodland are Speckle-throated Other specialist birds in the riv- to look for in the thicket vegeta- On the park’s north-eastern Woodpecker, Racket-tailed and by beautiful, erine forest include those of the tion are Red-throated Twinspot edge, remnant pockets of Zambe- Broad-billed rollers, Meves’s Star- lower stratum, such as African and, typically in December, an cathedral-like zian dry-deciduous forest support ling, Arnot’s Chat, Red-headed Broadbill, Black-throated Wattle- occasional African Pitta. This mopane woodland bird species similar to those found Weaver, Mosque Swallow, South- eye, White-browed Robin-Chat, is also ideal habitat for African in riverine semi-deciduous for- ern Ground-Hornbill, Stierling’s Bearded Scrub Robin, Collared Cuckoo Hawk and Pel’s Fish- The Shire’s tranquil tributaries, est. This isolated plant community Wren-Warbler, Ayres’s Hawk Ea­ Palm Thrush, Tambourine Dove, ing Owl, which nests here and where dense vegetation hangs over contains the richest vegetation in gle and, in summer, European Eastern Nicator, Garden War- is often seen at a daytime roost. the water, are the haunt of White- the park, even though it covers no Honey Buzzard. bler and Terrestrial Brownbul. Among the mammals, the re- backed Night Heron. The river’s more than 1.5 per cent of its area. Bird density in the mopane Higher up in the canopy you may clusive Livingstone’s suni is seen reedbeds are home to Rufous- Several plant species found here woodland is typically lower than see Green-backed Woodpecker, from time to time. winged Cisticola and in summer were new to science and many in the riverine forest and the birds

40 african birdlife july/august 2015 liwonde national park 41 above Flocks of the they screech overhead to and Sunbird and Green-capped Ere­ yellow , , Near-threatened Lil- from their feeding sites. momela. Bat Hawks are often Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, water ian’s Lovebirds may be The terrain of Liwonde is seen hunting here at dusk and mongoose, common reedbuck, found in the mopane generally flat, at about 500 me- I have recorded them nesting in oribi, greater kudu, , woodland. tres above sea level, except for the vicinity too. eland and Sharpe’s grysbok three isolated groups of hills. Liwonde’s northern bound- (near ), as well as a right Collared Palm The most noticeable of these ary adjoins the Mangochi Forest small population of black rhino. Thrush occurs in the are Chiunguni in the south and Reserve, an area of escarpment One of the highest densities of understorey of the Nyafulu in the east and they are that peaks at the 1 716-metre hippos in Africa, estimated at groves of riverine covered in mixed Brachystegia, Mangochi Mountain. A wildlife 49 individuals per kilometre, forest. Combretum, Burkea and Kirkia corridor (albeit poorly patrolled) occurs in the Shire River and woodland. This miombo habitat exists between Liwonde and numerous monstrous Nile cro­ harbours yet other bird com- Mangochi and the amalgamation codiles can be seen lazing on its munities, with the area around of these two conservation areas sandbanks. Chiunguni Hill, for instance, would not only be logical, but The birdlife in Liwonde is offering good birding for the also of extreme value in the long prolific and the national park likes of African Barred Owlet, term, as human pressure in the offers probably the best year- Orange-winged Pytilia, Shelley’s area is on the rise. round birding in south–central Overall, especially consider- Africa, with easy and afford- ing its 548-square-kilometre able access to a range of species And away you go… extent, Liwonde’s flora is sig- that are difficult to track down Seasons & weather There are two distinct seasons: dry and nificant, with at least 1 600 plant elsewhere in Africa – all this wet. About 85 per cent of the annual rainfall occurs between species estimated in the park in some of the most inspiring December and March. Temperatures can rise to above 40 °C and on the Mangochi Plateau. scenery on the continent. I re- in November, before the rains; winters are cool and comfort­ This can be compared with Tan- call one special evening, when able. Birding is better in the wet season, but reaching all zania’s 44 800-square-kilometre a rising full moon illuminated parts of the park then is more difficult. Selous Game Reserve, which the Shire escarpment before us has a flora of about 2 100 species and I simply couldn’t think of Habitats Semi-deciduous riverine forest; river and floodplain; or ’s 19 485-square- anywhere I would rather be. It mopane woodland; miombo woodland. kilometre Kruger National Park, really is very easy to get used Specials Brown-breasted Barbet; Livingstone’s Flycatcher; which has a similar number. to enjoying a succession of sun- Böhm’s Bee-eater; African Pitta; Lilian’s Lovebird; Pel’s Fishing The park’s mammal fauna is downers (and sunsets) along the Owl and Spur-winged Lapwing. equally varied, with good num- serene Shire to the accompani- Find out more at www.malawitourism.com and cawsmw.com bers of common , ment of the churring of Square- sable, , , zebra, tailed Nightjars. 

42 african birdlife