From Akershus to Acropolis

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Norwegian travelers to Greece

Edited by Christine Amadou and Jorunn Økland

Det norske institutt i Athen ISBN 978-960-85145-8-4 2019 From Akershus to Acropolis

Norwegian travelers to Greece

Edited by Christine Amadou and Jorunn Økland

Det norske institutt i Athen 2019 The excerpts are from the following books:

Christian Gottlob Bugge, Fra Grækenland. Kristiania: H.J. Jensen, 1860. 44-48 and 250-251

Ingvald Undset, Fra Akershus til Akropolis. Kristiania: Cammermeyer, 1892. 1-11 and 90-97

Carl W. Schnitler, Reise i Grækenland, glimt av Italien. Skildring av landskaper og kunst. Kristiania: Gyldendalske bokhandel, 1922. 1-5 and 103-104

All translations from Norwegian are by Brian McNeil. The translation from Greek is by Delia Tzortzaki.

Mathilde Bonnevie Dietrichson’s drawings are from Lorenz Dietrichson, Fra min Vandringstid, Christiania : J. W. Cappelen, 1876. 1, 143, 153, 197

ISBN 978-960-85145-8-4 Table of contents

Preface Jorunn Økland 5

Introduction Christine Amadou 8

«Feet on the Greek soil» 13

Descriptions of Contemporary Greece 21

Scholarly encounters 31

Translation of Greek review of Undset’s book 40

Preface

It is a pleasure to publish this collection, selected from accounts by early Norwe- gian travelers to Greece, as a contribution to two larger events: Mainly, the celebrations of the 30th anniversary of the Norwegian Institute at Athens. But it is also a contribution to a collaborative project involving all the Nordic embassies and institutes in Athens, as well as the Nordic Library: The Nordic Narrative in Athens: Greece through the eyes of the travelers from the North.

The current collection connects the two by presenting short excerpts from accounts by early Norwegian travelers specifically. For a long time, Norwegian visitors to Greece have come and still come to enjoy the Greek philoxenia, as also the Institute itself has done for 30 years.

Please note that the travelers of the 19th century were neither THE earliest, nor the first known Norwegian travelers to Greece: In the early 13th century A.D., the Icelandic historian and poet Snorri Sturluson writes in his Heimskringla, the history of the Norwegian kings, that the later king Harald Hardråde (mid-11th century A.D.) travelled to Miklagard/Constantinople and advanced to com- mander of the Emperor’s life guard (during the reign of Emperor Michael IV, Paphlagon). Harald, however, was only one among numerous “væringer” in the Emperor’s guard; in fact it even went under the name Τάγμα των Βαραγγίων for a while.

The period covered in this collection, is a second large wave of travelers in the same direction: Included are the travel reports by 19th and early 20th century Norwegian travelers Christian Gottlob Bugge, Ingvald Undset, Mathilde Bon- nevie Dietrichson and Carl Schnitler. Mathilde Dietrichson’s report came in the form of a series of drawings, which constitute the illustrations in this collection. This second wave of Norwegians travelling to Greece was conditioned 5 upon historical developments preceding their visits: When, in the 18th century, the Ottoman Empire decided to slightly soften its previous isolationism, a steady and gradually increasing crowd of travelers from Northern and West- ern Europe followed their dream and visited Greece for the first time. The “Grand Tour” soon became well established as a genre of its own - a must for young aspiring men (and some women) of the higher classes who wanted to present themselves as educated, experienced, “well travelled”, enlight- ened – but to venture further from France, the Alps and Italy all the way into Greece, was still in the 19th century relatively novel and brave. The Norwe- gians presented in the current collection arrived after Greece had gained full independence. This is significant, and will be further explained below.

In the 21st century, travel literature of the 17th-20th centuries has grown into a large research topic of its own. This literature provides one key to understanding how modern Greece became “integrated” into Europe before, during and after its struggle for independence from the Ottoman Empire, and it demonstrates how northerners reconnected with the matrix of European civilization as they imagined it, on contemporary Greek soil. Many of them felt that they knew the place already, through books and studies of ancient Greek literature and art. So in between descriptions of monuments, spectacular nature, and references to ancient Greek authors, the travelers also express great surprise to meet contemporary Greeks since they do not at all look like ancient marble sculptures.

When the travel literature of this period has grown into such a large research field today, it is partly because of what this literature betrays about the travelers themselves, and the cultures they travelled from (in our case North-Western Europe):

- their understanding of race, continuity and art, which led them to as- sume that ancient sculptures of deities must to such an extent have been naturalistic copies of human models that they expected the Greeks of their own time to look like white marble statues: white, tall and unblem- ished. A couple of centuries later, we are generally more aware of the exten- sive painting of ancient Greek marble sculpture, and through the work of scholars such as Robert Garland, more conscious of what people on ancient Athenian streets must have looked like in a society without modern hospitals;

- their understanding of the West and/versus the Orient. This led to particularly intense speculation in the travel literature, on the extent to which the Greece of their day was “Oriental” and the extent to which it was “European”;

6 upon historical developments preceding their visits: When, in the 18th centu- - their understanding of the hierarchy between empires and their colonies. In ry, the Ottoman Empire decided to slightly soften its previous isolationism, a this respect it is important to note that Norway and Greece shared an overlap- steady and gradually increasing crowd of travelers from Northern and West- ping, 400-year, colonial history. They declared a preliminary form of independ- ern Europe followed their dream and visited Greece for the first time. The ence only a few years apart (1814 and 1822, respectively), followed by full “Grand Tour” soon became well established as a genre of its own - a must independence only at a later stage (1905 and 1830, respectively). Thus, unlike for young aspiring men (and some women) of the higher classes who want- most of the North and Western European travelers to Greece in this period, most ed to present themselves as educated, experienced, “well travelled”, enlight- of the travelers presented in this collection travelled from a country that was still ened – but to venture further from France, the Alps and Italy all the way into only semi-independent, Norway (with its own Constitution but whose ruler was Greece, was still in the 19th century relatively novel and brave. The Norwe- the King of Sweden), to a country that had already reached full independence, gians presented in the current collection arrived after Greece had gained “Hellas”. Thus the country represented not only origins and past glory, but also full independence. This is significant, and will be further explained below. the future dream for the Norwegians. Perhaps is it significant in this context that Norwegians chose simply to transcribe the endonym Ελλἀδα when Nor- In the 21st century, travel literature of the 17th-20th centuries has grown into a wegian eventually took shape as the country’s official language? The Latin root large research topic of its own. This literature provides one key to understanding “graec-“ formed the basis for the official name of the country in other European how modern Greece became “integrated” into Europe before, during and after languages. Maybe the shared colonial past played a role when the more com- its struggle for independence from the Ottoman Empire, and it demonstrates monly used Latin exonym was rejected in favour of the term the Greeks them- how northerners reconnected with the matrix of European civilization as they selves used? In any case, our old travel reports, e.g. that by Bugge, still uses the imagined it, on contemporary Greek soil. Many of them felt that they knew the Danish “Grækenland” rather than Norwegian “Hellas”, since Danish was the of- place already, through books and studies of ancient Greek literature and art. ficial language of Norway through the colonial period, and after 1814 the basis So in between descriptions of monuments, spectacular nature, and references for the formation of the official (“Norwegian”) language of the new nation state. to ancient Greek authors, the travelers also express great surprise to meet contemporary Greeks since they do not at all look like ancient marble sculptures. Today, these and many further issues are raised by the old travel narratives. For this collection, Christine Amadou has done the selection of representative When the travel literature of this period has grown into such a large research field reports and illustrations. Together we hope that by offering representative ex- today, it is partly because of what this literature betrays about the travelers them- cerpts and images, we will whet the curiosity for even further investigations selves, and the cultures they travelled from (in our case North-Western Europe): into Norwegian travelers and cultural exchange in a historical perspective.

- their understanding of race, continuity and art, which led them to as- Athens, 20.02 2019 sume that ancient sculptures of deities must to such an extent have been naturalistic copies of human models that they expected the Greeks of Jorunn Økland their own time to look like white marble statues: white, tall and unblem- Director, Norwegian Institute at Athens ished. A couple of centuries later, we are generally more aware of the exten- Professor, University of Oslo sive painting of ancient Greek marble sculpture, and through the work of scholars such as Robert Garland, more conscious of what people on ancient Athenian streets must have looked like in a society without modern hospitals;

6 7 Introduction

From one periphery of Europe to another: It may not seem obvious that two of the youngest European nations, Norway and Greece, should have contact with each other in the nineteenth century. But the Norwegians knew Greece: Greek history and language were part of the classical curriculum. In the new capital, Christiania, neoclassical buildings demonstrated Norway’s belonging to the common European culture that had its source in Greece.

Scholarly knowledge and architectural models came to Norway through philhellenic movements in German-speaking countries. But when a few Norwe- gians were adventurous enough to travel to Greece on their own, they did not go “the German way”, but via Italy. Italy was normally the final destination for “the grand Tour,” the Bildungsreise to the antique land: Like other men from the Northern countries, the Norwegian travelers went to Greece from Rome. They first learnt Latin, then Greek: They went backward into ancient history.

As we celebrate thirty years of official Norwegian scholarly presence in Athens, we present some excerpts from four Norwegian travel reports on Greece. They represent a large time span and four different types of travelers; but through their eyes we also see some common features and, perhaps because they came from so far away, original observations and reflections. The first of them is the young student Christian Gottlob Bugge (1835- 1863) from Trondhjem in the North of Norway. Bugge was born in 1835, and when he had finished his classical studies in 1858, he went on a long voyage “to the south”. He ended up in Greece, and sent a series of travel reports to the newspaper Christiania-Posten. In 1860, the texts were collected and published as a book: From Greece/Fra Grækenland. The young candidate spent three months in Athens, then visited several parts of Greece (the Cyclades, Attica,Attica, thethe SardonicSaronic islands,islands, thethe Peloponnese,Peloponnese, the Ioni-Ioni- an Islands), often in quite uncomfortable ways, like a modern backpacker.

8 Our next traveler is the archeologist Ingvald Undset (1853-1893), who visited Greece in 1882, as part of a tour to Italian and Central European archaeological sites and museums. Undset was a specialist in the Northern European Iron and Bronze Ages, and he went as far as saying that “modern archaeology was born in the north”. He visited Greece with the professional’s curiosity Introduction and systematic thoroughness. For example, he spent several weeks in the newly built museum of Olympia, drawing and depicting buckles and other small metal items in his notebook. Undset travelled with a younger colleague, Anton Ræder, and his visit was possible thanks to a grant from the Norwegian state. From one periphery of Europe to another: It may not seem obvious that two His impressions from Greece were collected in the book with the beautiful ti- of the youngest European nations, Norway and Greece, should have con- tle Fra Akershus til Akropolis/ From Akershus to Acropolis (Akershus being the tact with each other in the nineteenth century. But the Norwegians knew old, royal castle in Oslo), published first in 1892, then in a shortened version in Greece: Greek history and language were part of the classical curriculum. In 1925. Undset’s contributions are illustrated by illustrations from his notebook. the new capital, Christiania, neoclassical buildings demonstrated Norway’s belonging to the common European culture that had its source in Greece. One of the rare women going to Greece from Norway, was the painter Mathil- de Bonnevie Dietrichson (1837-1921). She travelled to Asia Minor and to Scholarly knowledge and architectural models came to Norway through phil- Greece in 1869 with her husband, the art historian Lorenz Dietrichson. In hellenic movements in German-speaking countries. But when a few Norwe- 1876 he published the two-volume work Min vandringstid/My wandering gians were adventurous enough to travel to Greece on their own, they did not years, where part of the second volume covers the visit to Greece. The book go “the German way”, but via Italy. Italy was normally the final destination for is dedicated to “My faithful and bold companion on small travels as well as “the grand Tour,” the Bildungsreise to the antique land: Like other men from on life’s long travel”. Some of Mathilde Dietrichson’s illustrations are present- the Northern countries, the Norwegian travelers went to Greece from Rome. ed here as independent reports and impressions from the travel to Greece. They first learnt Latin, then Greek: They went backward into ancient history. Our last traveler in this collection is the art historian Carl W. Schnitler. He As we celebrate thirty years of official Norwegian scholarly presence in undertook several journeys to southern Europe, and his report from Greece Athens, we present some excerpts from four Norwegian travel reports on is found in the book Reise i Grækenland, Glimt av Italien/Travels in Greece, Greece. They represent a large time span and four different types of travel- Glimpses of Italy, published in 1922. Schnitler went to Greece at a time when ers; but through their eyes we also see some common features and, perhaps travel facilities and accommodation were better than for the poor student Bug- because they came from so far away, original observations and reflections. ge and for the hard-working scholar Undset. One may certainly call him a The first of them is the young student Christian Gottlob Bugge (1835- Romantic. He gives descriptions of the nature, of the ruins, and not the 1863) from Trondhjem in the North of Norway. Bugge was born in 1835, least of the effect they have on him. We find only a few anecdotes about and when he had finished his classical studies in 1858, he went on a long food and folklore, and nearly nothing about his encounters with people. voyage “to the south”. He ended up in Greece, and sent a series of travel reports to the newspaper Christiania-Posten. In 1860, the texts were col- How did these four travelers, with their different backgrounds, who vis- lected and published as a book: From Greece/Fra Grækenland. The young ited Greece at three different historical moments, depict modern Greece? candidate spent three months in Athens, then visited several parts of Greece How did they experience the gap, a topos in travel literature, between the (the Cyclades, Attica, the Sardonic islands, the Peloponnese, the Ioni- idealized antiquity and the de facto reality of Greece? Whom did they meet, an Islands), often in quite uncomfortable ways, like a modern backpacker. and how did they relate their contact with the scholarly milieu in Greece?

8 9 The following extracts from the four travelers are organized in three themat- TheThe followingfollowing extractsextracts fromfrom thethe fourfour travelerstravelers areare organizedorganized inin threethree thematthemat-- ic parts: The encounter with Greece: Here, Undset and Schnitler employ many icic parts:parts: TheThe encounterencounter withwith Greece:Greece: Here,Here, UndsetUndset andand SchnitlerSchnitler employemploy manymany of the common tournures from philhellenic travelers, but with their personal ofof thethe commoncommon tournurestournures fromfrom philhellenicphilhellenic travelers,travelers, butbut withwith theirtheir personalpersonal touch. Undset presents his personal scientific agenda together with the exalt- touch.touch. UndsetUndset presentspresents hishis personalpersonal scientificscientific agendaagenda togethertogether withwith thethe exaltexalt-- ed testimony of actually being in the mythical place. Schnitler also describes eded testimonytestimony ofof actuallyactually beingbeing inin thethe mythicalmythical place.place. SchnitlerSchnitler alsoalso describesdescribes the magic of setting his foot on Greek soil. For him, this has the golden col- thethe magicmagic ofof settingsetting hishis footfoot onon GreekGreek soil.soil. ForFor him,him, thisthis hashas thethe goldengolden colcol-- our of an almost mystical experience (Schnitler also cites Ernest Renan’s “Prière ourour ofof anan almostalmost mysticalmystical experienceexperience (Schnitler(Schnitler alsoalso citescites ErnestErnest Renan’sRenan’s “Prière“Prière sur l’Acropole” on the front page of his book). In his conclusion, also present- sursur l’Acropole”l’Acropole” onon thethe frontfront pagepage ofof hishis book).book). InIn hishis conclusion,conclusion, alsoalso presentpresent-- ed here, Schnitler uses the image of travel to the ancient land as a pilgrimage, eded here,here, SchnitlerSchnitler usesuses thethe imageimage ofof traveltravel toto thethe ancientancient landland asas aa pilgrimage,pilgrimage, but ends up with the expression of a wish: Would it be possible one day for butbut endsends upup withwith thethe expressionexpression ofof aa wish:wish: WouldWould itit bebe possiblepossible oneone dayday forfor the Scandinavians “to have academic organizations down here that investigate thethe ScandinaviansScandinavians “to“to havehave academicacademic organizationsorganizations downdown herehere thatthat investigateinvestigate the value that these ancient stones contain, and make use of them for their thethe valuevalue thatthat thesethese ancientancient stonesstones contain,contain, andand makemake useuse ofof themthem forfor theirtheir own national culture”? “Or are these just fantasies by the light of the moon”? ownown nationalnational culture”?culture”? “Or“Or areare thesethese justjust fantasiesfantasies byby thethe lightlight ofof thethe moon”?moon”? In the second part, we will investigate how these travelers met modern Greece InIn thethe secondsecond part,part, wewe willwill investigateinvestigate howhow thesethese travelerstravelers metmet modernmodern GreeceGreece and their perspective on contemporary Greek culture. As a young “backpacker,” andand theirtheir perspectiveperspective onon contemporarycontemporary GreekGreek culture.culture. AsAs aa youngyoung “backpacker,”“backpacker,” Christian Bugge is the one among them who seems the most interested in the ChristianChristian BuggeBugge isis thethe oneone amongamong themthem whowho seemsseems thethe mostmost interestedinterested inin thethe “living Greece”. He had learnt Modern Greek quite well, and in his description “living“living Greece”.Greece”. HeHe hadhad learntlearnt ModernModern GreekGreek quitequite well,well, andand inin hishis descriptiondescription of his visit to Amphissa in the Phocis region (he uses the old name Salona, in use ofof hishis visitvisit toto AmphissaAmphissa inin thethe PhocisPhocis regionregion (he(he usesuses thethe oldold namename Salona,Salona, inin useuse until 1833), he relates his encounter with three young boys. He presents their untiluntil 1833),1833), hehe relatesrelates hishis encounterencounter withwith threethree youngyoung boys.boys. HeHe presentspresents theirtheir dialect and his political discussion with them. But he also gives us a glimpse of dialectdialect andand hishis politicalpolitical discussiondiscussion withwith them.them. ButBut hehe alsoalso givesgives usus aa glimpseglimpse ofof ethnographic observations. Here, Bugge is the only one among the three writ- ethnographicethnographic observations.observations. Here,Here, BuggeBugge isis thethe onlyonly oneone amongamong thethe threethree writwrit-- ers who compares Greek and Norwegian popular culture, when he compares ersers whowho comparescompares GreekGreek andand NorwegianNorwegian popularpopular culture,culture, whenwhen hehe comparescompares the boys’ song with the Norwegian traditional song “Eg ser deg utfor Gluggen”. thethe boys’boys’ songsong withwith thethe NorwegianNorwegian traditionaltraditional songsong “Eg“Eg serser degdeg utforutfor Gluggen”.Gluggen”. The scholar Undset shows curiosity and interest in Modern Greek culture, but he TheThe scholarscholar UndsetUndset showsshows curiositycuriosity andand interestinterest inin ModernModern GreekGreek culture,culture, butbut hehe also reproduces many of the commonplaces of Northern travelers use to reflect alsoalso reproducesreproduces manymany ofof thethe commonplacescommonplaces ofof NorthernNorthern travelerstravelers useuse toto reflectreflect on their disappointment when they do not meet “the ancient Greek types” in the onon theirtheir disappointmentdisappointment whenwhen theythey dodo notnot meetmeet “the“the ancientancient GreekGreek types”types” inin thethe streets of Modern Athens. When Carl W. Schnitler writes about his visit to Greece streetsstreets ofof ModernModern Athens.Athens. WhenWhen CarlCarl W.W. SchnitlerSchnitler writeswrites aboutabout hishis visitvisit toto GreeceGreece forty years later, he openly discusses the choice the visitor has to make: Should he fortyforty yearsyears later,later, hehe openlyopenly discussesdiscusses thethe choicechoice thethe visitorvisitor hashas toto make:make: ShouldShould hehe describe contemporary Greece, as did the Swedish Count Hugo Wachtmeister, describedescribe contemporarycontemporary Greece,Greece, asas diddid thethe SwedishSwedish CountCount HugoHugo Wachtmeister,Wachtmeister, who “asks whether it is the landscape that has changed, or the men of old who whowho “asks“asks whetherwhether itit isis thethe landscapelandscape thatthat hashas changed,changed, oror thethe menmen ofof oldold whowho have told tales in their descriptions of nature”? Or should he watch everything havehave toldtold talestales inin theirtheir descriptionsdescriptions ofof nature”?nature”? OrOr shouldshould hehe watchwatch everythingeverything “through romantic-tinted spectacles”? Schnitler chooses the latter path: “If there- “through“through romantic-tintedromantic-tinted spectacles”?spectacles”? SchnitlerSchnitler chooseschooses thethe latterlatter path:path: “If“If therethere-- fore, someone will say: ‘I am traveling with a greater interest in the Greece that fore,fore, someonesomeone willwill say:say: ‘I‘I amam travelingtraveling withwith aa greatergreater interestinterest inin thethe GreeceGreece thatthat once existed and it its dead past, rather than in the way it lives today, and I will ac- onceonce existedexisted andand itit itsits deaddead past,past, ratherrather thanthan inin thethe wayway itit liveslives today,today, andand II willwill acac-- cordingly give myself the evil name of ‘romantic’ – well, I will agree with him.” cordinglycordingly givegive myselfmyself thethe evilevil namename ofof ‘romantic’‘romantic’ –– well,well, II willwill agreeagree withwith him.”him.” The last theme of our extracts is the meeting with other European visitors TheThe lastlast themetheme ofof ourour extractsextracts isis thethe meetingmeeting withwith otherother EuropeanEuropean visitorsvisitors in Greece. Here we have Undset’s unique report of his many visits to Hein- inin Greece.Greece. HereHere wewe havehave Undset’sUndset’s uniqueunique10 reportreport ofof hishis manymany visitsvisits toto Hein-Hein- 1010 The following extracts from the four travelers are organized in three themat- The following extracts from the four travelers are organized in three themat- rich Schliemann’s magnificent town-house in Athens, and his descriptions of ic parts: The encounter with Greece: Here, Undset and Schnitler employ many ic parts: The encounter with Greece: Here, Undset and Schnitler employ many Schliemann as a person as well as an archaeologist. This ambiguous, and nu- of the common tournures from philhellenic travelers, but with their personal of the common tournures from philhellenic travelers, but with their personal anced, portrait deserves to be known by German and Greek scholars. But forty touch. Undset presents his personal scientific agenda together with the exalt- touch. Undset presents his personal scientific agenda together with the exalt- years before Undset, even the young Christian Bugge writes about other “Eu- ed testimony of actually being in the mythical place. Schnitler also describes ed testimony of actually being in the mythical place. Schnitler also describes ropeans” he met, namely the Austrian painter Karl Rahl (1812-1865) and his the magic of setting his foot on Greek soil. For him, this has the golden col- the magic of setting his foot on Greek soil. For him, this has the golden col- “hunt for ancient Greek physiognomies in Athens.” Bugge also met the neoclas- our of an almost mystical experience (Schnitler also cites Ernest Renan’s “Prière our of an almost mystical experience (Schnitler also cites Ernest Renan’s “Prière sical architect Theofil Hansen, in whom he discovers a half-compatriot, since sur l’Acropole” on the front page of his book). In his conclusion, also present- sur l’Acropole” on the front page of his book). In his conclusion, also present- the father of the Hansen brothers was from the Norwegian town of Drammen. ed here, Schnitler uses the image of travel to the ancient land as a pilgrimage, ed here, Schnitler uses the image of travel to the ancient land as a pilgrimage, but ends up with the expression of a wish: Would it be possible one day for but ends up with the expression of a wish: Would it be possible one day for These four travel reports (three in writing and one in picture format), in all the Scandinavians “to have academic organizations down here that investigate the Scandinavians “to have academic organizations down here that investigate their differences, are part of Norwegian of Greek history, and not the least of the value that these ancient stones contain, and make use of them for their the value that these ancient stones contain, and make use of them for their the history of the relationship between the two. An example of how the re- own national culture”? “Or are these just fantasies by the light of the moon”? own national culture”? “Or are these just fantasies by the light of the moon”? ports engendered further exchange between the two countries, concludes this volume: It is a translation of a review of Undset’s book published In the second part, we will investigate how these travelers met modern Greece In the second part, we will investigate how these travelers met modern Greece in the Greek newspaper Hestia (January 15, 1889). The review demon- and their perspective on contemporary Greek culture. As a young “backpacker,” and their perspective on contemporary Greek culture. As a young “backpacker,” strates that writings by the Norwegian travelers were also received, read, Christian Bugge is the one among them who seems the most interested in the Christian Bugge is the one among them who seems the most interested in the and further discussed in Athens. The review thus represents one more turn “living Greece”. He had learnt Modern Greek quite well, and in his description “living Greece”. He had learnt Modern Greek quite well, and in his description in a very rich history of cultural exchange between Norway and Greece. of his visit to Amphissa in the Phocis region (he uses the old name Salona, in use of his visit to Amphissa in the Phocis region (he uses the old name Salona, in use until 1833), he relates his encounter with three young boys. He presents their until 1833), he relates his encounter with three young boys. He presents their dialect and his political discussion with them. But he also gives us a glimpse of dialect and his political discussion with them. But he also gives us a glimpse of Christine Amadou ethnographic observations. Here, Bugge is the only one among the three writ- ethnographic observations. Here, Bugge is the only one among the three writ- Associate Professor, Department of Philosophy, Classics, ers who compares Greek and Norwegian popular culture, when he compares ers who compares Greek and Norwegian popular culture, when he compares History of Art and Ideas, University of Oslo the boys’ song with the Norwegian traditional song “Eg ser deg utfor Gluggen”. the boys’ song with the Norwegian traditional song “Eg ser deg utfor Gluggen”. The scholar Undset shows curiosity and interest in Modern Greek culture, but he The scholar Undset shows curiosity and interest in Modern Greek culture, but he also reproduces many of the commonplaces of Northern travelers use to reflect also reproduces many of the commonplaces of Northern travelers use to reflect on their disappointment when they do not meet “the ancient Greek types” in the on their disappointment when they do not meet “the ancient Greek types” in the streets of Modern Athens. When Carl W. Schnitler writes about his visit to Greece streets of Modern Athens. When Carl W. Schnitler writes about his visit to Greece forty years later, he openly discusses the choice the visitor has to make: Should he forty years later, he openly discusses the choice the visitor has to make: Should he describe contemporary Greece, as did the Swedish Count Hugo Wachtmeister, describe contemporary Greece, as did the Swedish Count Hugo Wachtmeister, who “asks whether it is the landscape that has changed, or the men of old who who “asks whether it is the landscape that has changed, or the men of old who have told tales in their descriptions of nature”? Or should he watch everything have told tales in their descriptions of nature”? Or should he watch everything “through romantic-tinted spectacles”? Schnitler chooses the latter path: “If there- “through romantic-tinted spectacles”? Schnitler chooses the latter path: “If therefore, someone will say: ‘I am traveling with a greater interest in the Greece that fore, someone will say: ‘I am traveling with a greater interest in the Greece that once existed and it its dead past, rather than in the way it lives today, and I will ac- once existed and it its dead past, rather than in the way it lives today, and I will accordingly give myself the evil name of ‘romantic’ – well, I will agree with him.” cordingly give myself the evil name of ‘romantic’ – well, I will agree with him.” The last theme of our extracts is the meeting with other European visitors The last theme of our extracts is the meeting with other European visitors in Greece. Here we have Undset’s unique report of his many visits to Hein- in Greece. Here we have Undset’s unique10 report of his many visits to Hein- 10 11

«Feet «Feet on on the the Greek Greek soil» soil» Ingvald Undset:

So now, I was to come to Greece too! I was to set my feet on the classical soil of Hellas and see the Acropolis, with the most glorious ancient remains in the world!

To visitvisit GreeceGreece was was not not in infact fact a part a part of my of planmy forplan that for particular that particular journey. jour My- ney.plans My for studyplans werefor ratherstudy definitelywere rather restricted, definitely and restricted,considerations and ofconsidera time and- tionsof money of time forbade and me of tomoney deviate forbade greatly mefrom to them, deviate if my greatly studies from were them, to lead if myto any studies solid were result. to I leadhad tonow any traveled solid result.through I hadthe nowwhole traveled of Italy throughfor the bestthe wholepart of oftwo Italy years, for and the I besthad masteredpart of two the years,prehistorical and I hadarchaeological mastered thematerial pre- historicalthat was available. archaeological The plan material was that that a visit was to Sicilyavailable. would The round plan off Italy,was bethat- afore visit I set to out Sicily for centralwould Europe.round off Italy, before I set out for central Europe.

But there was so much that drew me over to Hellas: not only a longing to see this oldest home of the flowering of culture in Europe, but also the hope of finding much instructive material for my special studies. I knew for certain that there were in fact no collections of prehistorical material in Greece. In Italy too, it was above all the latest prehistoric or protohistorical period that had been the principal object of my studies and interests, especially the first half of the millennium before Christ, when the Italian culture which develops into full bloom later on, in the classical period ― is first established, and takes form under continuous oriental influence. But there must be new material to be found in Olympia that would shed light on this development. This material, which had not yet been studied in this context, came from the huge and still unpublished findings of bronze objects brought to light in recent years in the great German excavations. Besides this, there were the findings from the Dipylon cemetery near Athens, which had not yet been published integrally. And Schliemann’s rich findings from the tombs in Mycenae were kept in Athens― findings that had opened up completely new horizons for archaeological research in the classical lands, going far back into the second millennium before Christ. […]

The ancient ruinsruins inin AthensAthens areare notnot nearlynearly as as numerous numerous as in in Rome,Rome, nornor areare they scattered over such a wide area. Besides this, Athens has nothing to offer from the Middle Ages or the Renaissance. It is therefore clear that the ordinary kind of traveler, who only wants to go from place to place to “see everything” that a guide book says is worth seeing, will be finished with Athens in a few days, while he will need to spend weeks in Rome. The ruins in Athens are largely concentrated on and around the Acropolis. Here, as in Rome, a large part of the territory of the ancient city now lies waste and unbuilt upon; but one im-

14 Ingvald Undset: mediately has the impression that Athens was never such a huge metropo- lis as Rome. But I understood at once what a German colleague in Rome had So now, I was to come to Greece too! I was to set my feet on the classical soil of said to me, although I did not believe him at the time―namely, that when one Hellas and see the Acropolis, with the most glorious ancient remains in the world! comes to Athens, Rome and its monuments will fade away in one’s memory!

To visit Greece was not in fact a part of my plan for that particular jour- Every cultivated visitor will be moved and inspired on the Acropolis. The only ney. My plans for study were rather definitely restricted, and considera- possible reaction to the rows of Doric columns on the Parthenon and the Pro- tions of time and of money forbade me to deviate greatly from them, if pylaea is to be captivated by the impression of pure beauty that is imparted my studies were to lead to any solid result. I had now traveled through the by these simple, rectilinear, noble structures. Everyone will be entranced by whole of Italy for the best part of two years, and I had mastered the pre- the light Ionic grace of the Temple of Athena Nikê and the Erechtheion, and historical archaeological material that was available. The plan was that feel the attraction of the calm beauty of the Caryatid Porch. And the fine fea- a visit to Sicily would round off Italy, before I set out for central Europe. tures are so nobly emphasized by the lovely material, the Pentelic marble, on which time and light have bestowed a remarkably warm, golden color, so that But there was so much that drew me over to Hellas: not only a longing to see this it almost seems to be have been gilded. And the air is so indescribably full of oldest home of the flowering of culture in Europe, but also the hope of finding light under the clear, dark blue sky. Seen from a little distance, these marble much instructive material for my special studies. I knew for certain that there columns shine almost as if they were on fire, standing there in their colors were in fact no collections of prehistorical material in Greece. In Italy too, it against the background of the dark blue sky. All this is utterly indescribable! was above all the latest prehistoric or protohistorical period that had been the principal object of my studies and interests, especially the first half of the mil- The entire surface of the fortress summit is full of remains of statue bases, and lennium before Christ, when the Italian culture which develops into full bloom everywhere on the rock one can see the traces where statues stood. One looks later on, in the classical period ― is first established, and takes form under with great interest at the rectangular surface that once bore Phidias’ majestic continuous oriental influence. But there must be new material to be found in bronze statue of Athene, the protectress of the city, a colossal figure that tow- Olympia that would shed light on this development. This material, which had ered up into the sky, high above all the temples of the city. Its shining helmet not yet been studied in this context, came from the huge and still unpublished and the gilded tip of its spear were the first thing one saw of Athens when one findings of bronze objects brought to light in recent years in the great German came to the city from afar. If one walks around up here, one can still see that excavations. Besides this, there were the findings from the Dipylon cemetery the surface of the fortress rock, which looks so strikingly level from a distance, near Athens, which had not yet been published integrally. And Schliemann’s is not really so smooth. And one begins to notice how much skill has been used rich findings from the tombs in Mycenae were kept in Athens― findings that to level the cliff on the top and to make its slopes steep outside the walls. One had opened up completely new horizons for archaeological research in the notices that there are large unfinished sections at certain points inside the walls. classical lands, going far back into the second millennium before Christ. […] No strong imagination is needed here. One can easily picture to oneself how things The ancient ruins in Athens are not nearly as numerous in Rome, nor are they looked when everything was in its splendor. One need only close one’s eyes, and scattered over such a wide area. Besides this, Athens has nothing to offer from one seems to see the Panathenaic procession moving from the Propylaea up be- the Middle Ages or the Renaissance. It is therefore clear that the ordinary kind tween the army of bronze and marble statues and going around the Parthenon to of traveler, who only wants to go from place to place to “see everything” that enter it from the eastern façade: the Parthenon frieze, this wonderful relief from a guide book says is worth seeing, will be finished with Athens in a few days, the hand of Phidias, which everyone who has eyes and is interested in beauty while he will need to spend weeks in Rome. The ruins in Athens are largely remembers from casts or from drawings, is brought back to life here before one’s concentrated on and around the Acropolis. Here, as in Rome, a large part of mind’s eye and glides past, with its lovely groups of young men and women. the territory of the ancient city now lies waste and unbuilt upon; but one im-

14 15 Here inin these these surroundings, surroundings, one onegets agets reverent a reverent understanding understanding of that happy of that co- habitationhappy cohabitation between gods between and beautiful gods humanand beautiful beings, whichhuman the beings,brilliant whichartists ofthe antiquity brilliant saw artists in spirit of andantiquity held fast saw in marble.in spirit and held fast in marble.

As I stood there, I could not help thinking about how these ruins could exercise such a captivating power over me. Why should I feel such a deep joy and happi- ness over what I saw here? Were not these merely dead stones from a long-dead world? And was it only because “dead” words about these stones had been taught to me in my childhood that I now came to feel such an enchanting joy in this place? After all, I was full of interest in contemporary life and its reality out there in the world of work and at home. And indeed, I was not untouched by modern resentments against the dead languages taught in school, nor by the arguments that a complete change was necessary in the contents of our general education.

But I could not long remain in doubt about why I felt that these ruins and this long-dead world concerned me personally, and why I felt that here was an ancient capital city for the whole of civilized human life! I realized clearly that all this made such an overwhelming impression, not only because these ruins were so beautiful, or because these remains of the creations of a glorious art lay here in the midst of such a fortunate and beautiful nature, surrounded by this rich light and these colors in the air, on the land, and in the sea. No, all this had power over me because I could not for one moment be unaware that this art was the loveliest flowering of the culture that had taken as its conscious ideal the harmonious development of the beautiful human personality. I knew that this culture had belonged to the oldest free society of human citizens; it was here that the concept of political freedom was born, and it was here that for the first time, free citizens had lived in a free state. It was here that the higher interests of the spirit were first developed and cultivated. Accord- ingly, what was done here had become the foundation of all subsequent civilization, and that is why every educated person felt here that one had come, not to a place that was foreign and that did not concern him, but to the cradle of the development to which he too felt happy to belong to an ancient capital city that he too felt to be his own, and to which he felt such a debt of gratitude.

16 Here in these surroundings, one gets a reverent understanding of that happy cohabitation between gods and beautiful human beings, which the brilliant artists of antiquity saw in spirit and held fast in marble.

But I could not long remain in doubt about why I felt that these ruins and this long-dead world concerned me personally, and why I felt that here was an ancient capital city for the whole of civilized human life! I realized clearly that all this made such an overwhelming impression, not only because these ruins were so beautiful, or because these remains of the creations of a glorious art lay here in the midst of such a fortunate and beautiful nature, surrounded by this rich light and these colors in the air, on the land, and in the sea. No, all this had power over me because I could not for one moment be unaware that this art was the loveliest flowering of the culture that had taken as its conscious ideal the harmonious development of the beautiful human personality. I knew that this culture had belonged to the oldest free society of human citizens; it was here that the concept of political freedom was born, and it was here that for the first time, free citizens had lived in a free state. It was here that the higher interests of the spirit were first developed and cultivated. Accord- ingly, what was done here had become the foundation of all subsequent civilization, and that is why every educated person felt here that one had come, not to a place that was foreign and that did not concern him, but to the cradle of the development to which he too felt happy to belong to an ancient capital Undset’s notebook from Olympia city that he too felt to be his own, and to which he felt such a debt of gratitude. NB (Nasjonalbiblioteket) Ms.4º 858:27. Undset, Ingvald. Etterlatte papirer. Studiereise i Italia inferiore ed orientale samt Grækenland 1883.

16 17 Carl W. Schnitler:

When one steps ashore onto the soil of Crete, or sails up past Cape Sounio ― or drops anchor at Piraeus, and then stands, one hour later, on the Acropolis in Athens,Athens oneone doesdoes notnot havehave thethe usualusual experience thatthat one has when coming to a foreign land. It is, of course, true that one ought to look at this country and at the persons we meet in the same way that one looks at every other country and people. And yet, it is only human ― at least, if one is a historian ― that one uses one’s eyes in a different way, one that is somewhat more open to moods, than in any other place. For the moods that move in oneself at such moments are not every-day moods. Most of the days in one’s life are indifferent, colorless, or bad. For the greater part of the time of our life, we are not living. We count the pendulum strokes of eternity. But very rarely, brilliant golden days occur, days that radiate with their own deep splendor throughout the rest of one’s life. One such day is the day on which one sets foot on the soil of Greece. And the landscape over which one’s eye travels… every individual one meets, and every col- umn shaft one’s foot bumps into, automatically finds its place in the light of the dream of beauty and of the immortality that is one with the name “Hellas.” […]

All truths change or become worthless over the course of the millennia, even the religious truths. Only beauty lasts. Only great art is eternal. There is art that is so profoundly human, so comprehensive and simple, that it is valid for all times for an entire race. This is the case with the Greek form of beauty. Even the age of iron constructions, motor cars, and “applied art” bows its head before it, and attempts to find the way back to its simple, clear, sublime objectivity.

This is is because because European European culture culture is unthinkable is unthinkable without withoutGreek culture. Greek Thiscul- is whyture. theThis Acropolis is why isthe a sacred Acropolis place. is And a sacred it is bathed place. atAnd night it isin thebathed splendor at night of allin thethe glory splendor and mysteriousness of all the glory of the andsanctuary. mysteriousness of the sanctuary.

All the nations go on pilgrimage to Athens and to the Acropolis, as to their spiritual origin, and they have academic organizations down here that investigate the values that these ancient stones contain, and make use of them for their own national culture. But we Scandinavians are missing here ― as in so many other places. We do not yet understand that the classical is just as necessary as the national language and everything that is connected with it. It is certainly necessary for us to get through the language question and to acquire for us, as a nation, the autonomy and power that flow from the language. But if we are to develop a culture that has authority ― and, above all, that has style ― we must go through antiquity, so

18 Carl W. Schnitler: to speak. Through academic emissaries and a purposeful work in the university and the school, we too could come to share in the simple and broad humanity that is When one steps ashore onto the soil of Crete, or sails up past Cape Sounio ― or classical antiquity’s greatest value, and that we are so desperately short of. drops anchor at Piraeus, and then stands, one hour later, on the Acropolis in Athens one does not have the usual experience that one has when coming to a Could something like this happen? foreign land. It is, of course, true that one ought to look at this country and at the persons we meet in the same way that one looks at every other country and Or are these just fantasies by the light of the moon? people. And yet, it is only human ― at least, if one is a historian ― that one uses one’s eyes in a different way, one that is somewhat more open to moods, than in any other place. For the moods that move in oneself at such moments are not every-day moods. Most of the days in one’s life are indifferent, colorless, or bad. For the greater part of the time of our life, we are not living. We count the pendulum strokes of eternity. But very rarely, brilliant golden days occur, days that radiate with their own deep splendor throughout the rest of one’s life. One such day is the day on which one sets foot on the soil of Greece. And the landscape over which one’s eye travels… every individual one meets, and every col- umn shaft one’s foot bumps into, automatically finds its place in the light of the dream of beauty and of the immortality that is one with the name “Hellas.” […]

This is because European culture is unthinkable without Greek culture. This is why the Acropolis is a sacred place. And it is bathed at night in the splendor of all the glory and mysteriousness of the sanctuary.

18 19

Descriptions of Contemporary Greece Descriptions of Contemporary Greece Christian Bugge:

There is in fact a kind of competition between Athens and Syros, with both cities wanting to be the first in the kingdom. I met several groups of pupils, walking like a body of soldiers under command, with their teachers at the head. It seemed that foreigners were a rare sight here; at any rate, we were the object of an uncon- cealed curiosity, even on the part of the finest ladies in their silks and crinolines.

Syros was connected to Athens and Constantinople a few months ago, through a telegraph, which is, however, not yet opened for private correspondence. Some young Austrians were sent over as telegraphists. I looked at the new telegraph station with one of these Austrians, whom I had got to know in Athens. A shab- by wide shed is its temporary location. While I was there, several telegraphic dis- patches from the government in Athens arrived, and were scarcely understood by the telegraphist, who had no knowledge at all of Modern Greek. He did not even make use of the Greek letters, but wrote them down in the usual Latin script. The government is probably reluctant to employ Greeks for this work, since it is precisely those qualities that are so necessary for a telegraphist ― silence and discre- tion ― that are one of the weakest aspects of the Greek national character. […]

We tooktook the the path path that that passes passes high high up under up under the mountain the mountain and far andabove far Chrysó, above andChrysó, leads and down leads to Salona. down Theto Salona. weather The was glorious,weather andwas inglorious, the fresh, and transpar in the- entfresh, mountain transparent air, ourmountain three young,air, our speedy three young,post-boys speedy competed post-boys with competone an- othered with in singingone another their songs,in singing which their echoed songs, from which the mountains. echoed from As Ithe listened, moun -I caughttains. As several I listened, strophes I caughtof these several melodies, strophes which of are these cheerful melodies, though which monoto are- nous,cheerful and though had love monotonous, as their subject. and Onehad lovewas aboutas their the subject. unsuccessful One waswooing about of athe “Graekópula” unsuccessful (a wooingGreek girl)of a by “Graekópula” a “Turkópulos” (a Greek(a young girl) Turkish by a “Turkópuman). The- suitorlos” (a was young supported Turkish by man). her mother, The suitor but the was girl’s supported answer wasby hera determined mother, but “no,” the andgirl’s every answer strophe was a ended determined with the “no,” refrain: and every strophe ended with the refrain: “I don’t want him, I don’t want him!” Another song began with words that strikingly resembled our own song “I see you out there in front of the hatch, my dear sweet friend!” It began thus: “I saw your black eyes and your red cheeks, my girl, through the hatch.”

22 The boys had lost both their parents while they were still young, and they were Christian Bugge: Thefull of boys lamentations had lost both about their the parents education while they they had were not still received. young, Theyand they had werenot fullhad ofthe lamentations chance to learn about to readthe education and write, they since had they not had received. been obliged They tohad earn not There is in fact a kind of competition between Athens and Syros, with both cities hadtheir the bread chance by workingto learn tofrom read a andvery write,early sinceage. When they had there been was obliged some expresto earn- wanting to be the first in the kingdom. I met several groups of pupils, walking theirsion inbread their by language working that from I dida very not earlyquite age.understand, When there they was always some said: expres “We- like a body of soldiers under command, with their teachers at the head. It seemed sioncould in not their speak language as one thatshould; I did we not are quitelike animals; understand, we could they notalways speak said: proper “We- that foreigners were a rare sight here; at any rate, we were the object of an uncon- couldly.” They not speakpresented as one themselves should; we modestly are like asanimals; Rumeliots we could(inhabitants not speak of Rumelia,proper- cealed curiosity, even on the part of the finest ladies in their silks and crinolines. ly.the” Theycommon presented name thatthemselves is usually modestly given toas theRumeliots Greek mainland),(inhabitants and of farmersRumelia, theunder common the Hellenes name thatand iscity-dwellers usually given. The to thelatter Greek spoke mainland), “Hellenish,” and butfarmers they Syros was connected to Athens and Constantinople a few months ago, through underspoke “Rumeliotish,”the Hellenes and that city-dwellersis, the simple,. The uneducated latter spoke dialect, “Hellenish,” as opposed but to theythe a telegraph, which is, however, not yet opened for private correspondence. Some spokelanguage “Rumeliotish,” spoken in the that cities. is, the Albanian simple, uneducated is not spoken dialect, and asunderstood opposed toat theall young Austrians were sent over as telegraphists. I looked at the new telegraph languagein these regions.spoken inMoreover, the cities. they Albanian were not is innot any spoken way oppressedand understood by the atfeel all- station with one of these Austrians, whom I had got to know in Athens. A shab- ining these that theyregions. were Moreover, ignorant; they spokewere not in ain cheerful any way and oppressed lively manner by the about feel- by wide shed is its temporary location. While I was there, several telegraphic dis- ingthis thatand theythat. wereThe ignorant;subject of they politics spoke also in camea cheerful up. andThe rumorslively manner about aboutwar had patches from the government in Athens arrived, and were scarcely understood by thisreached and eventhat. Thethese subjectremote ofvalleys, politics although also came in up.a much The changedrumors aboutform. warHere, had the telegraphist, who had no knowledge at all of Modern Greek. He did not even reachedthey took even the theseform ofremote gloomy valleys, rumors although about anin auprising much changedthat had form.broken Here, out make use of the Greek letters, but wrote them down in the usual Latin script. The theyin the took capital, the Athens.form of Igloomy told them rumors that theabout reality an uprising was different, that had and broken on a largout- government is probably reluctant to employ Greeks for this work, since it is pre- iner thescale: capital, it was Athens. a question I told of them the Europeanthat the reality great waspowers, different, and how and small on a largand- cisely those qualities that are so necessary for a telegraphist ― silence and discre- erunimportant scale: it was Hellas a question was in ofcomparison the European to them. great Mypowers, post-boy and howthen smallcried andout tion ― that are one of the weakest aspects of the Greek national character. […] unimportantwith a delightfully Hellas modestwas in comparisonand humble to expression, them. My provokedpost-boy thenby the cried feeling out withthat hisa delightfully fatherland wasmodest unimportant: and humble “Yes, expression, we are like provoked a mouthful by theof lettuce!” feeling We took the path that passes high up under the mountain and far above that his fatherland was unimportant: “Yes, we are like a mouthful of lettuce!” Chrysó, and leads down to Salona. The weather was glorious, and in the And precisely this little “lettuce” would be far too strong a temptation for Russia’s fresh, transparent mountain air, our three young, speedy post-boys compet- Andgreedy precisely appetite! this We little passed “lettuce” by several would shepherds be far too with strong their a temptation flocks, and for the Russia’s sounds ed with one another in singing their songs, which echoed from the moun- greedyof their appetite! flutes flogerá( We passed) were by melancholic several shepherds and sad with among their the flocks, mountains. and the This sounds re- tains. As I listened, I caught several strophes of these melodies, which are gionof their was flutes barren, flogerá( wild,) withoutwere melancholic any trace of and human sad among dwellings. the mountains. Succulent oleander This re- cheerful though monotonous, and had love as their subject. One was about gionbushes was grew barren, here wild, and there without along any the trace mountain of human brooks. dwellings. Their Succulent sweet-smelling oleander red the unsuccessful wooing of a “Graekópula” (a Greek girl) by a “Turkópu- bushesflowers grew were here not andyet inthere bloom. along In the some mountain places, brooks.pomegranate Their treessweet-smelling had put down red los” (a young Turkish man). The suitor was supported by her mother, but the flowersroots in thewere stony, not yet ochre-red in bloom. cliff In some soil. places,After ridingpomegranate for more trees than had three put downhours girl’s answer was a determined “no,” and every strophe ended with the refrain: rootsalong inthe the steep stony, southern ochre-red slopes cliff of Parnassus, soil. After which riding stretch for outmore in than a straight three line,hours “I don’t want him, I don’t want him!” alongwe arrived the steep down southern on the north-western slopes of Parnassus, part of which the Crisean stretch plain. out in This a straight is cultivat line,- Another song began with words that strikingly resembled our own song weed, arrivedespecially down with on luxuriant the north-western fields and part vineyards; of the Crisean lower plain.down towardsThis is cultivatthe sea,- “I see you out there in front of the hatch, my dear sweet friend!” ed,most especially of the ground with luxuriantis covered fields in olive and groves. vineyards; The blood-redlower down anemones, towards “Adonis’ the sea, It began thus: mostblood,” of stoodthe ground out in is an covered utterly in beautiful olive groves. manner The against blood-red the light-greenanemones, “Adonis’vegeta- “I saw your black eyes blood,”tion, like stood large, out heavy in an drops utterly of bloodbeautiful poured manner out againstover the the fields. light-green The grapevines vegeta- and your red cheeks, my girl, tion,had just like put large, forth heavy their drops first leaves.of blood Theirpoured fragrance out over spread the fields. far and Thewide, grapevines and their through the hatch.” hadflowers just putwere forth white-green. their first Aleaves. winepress Their is fragrancebuilt at the spreadfront offar every and wide,vineyard, and andtheir flowersthe grape were juice white-green. flows down A fromwinepress it through is built a athole the intofront a ofsubterranean every vineyard, cistern. and the grape juice flows down from it through a hole into a subterranean cistern. 23 22 23 Around 11 o’clock, we reached Salona, the ancient Amphissa, the capital city of the Ozolian Locrians. It lies deep within the north-eastern part of the plain, right at the foot of the level ascent of the Coraz, which towers up with its snow-clad peaks several hundred feet above Parnassus, and is only a quarter of a mile away from its south-west corner. This is one of the country’s larger and more prosper- ous towns, with between seven and eight thousand inhabitants. The houses are fairly respectable, some with several stories and windows, but most of them are built of clay. The town is surrounded by gardens in bloom. A steep height that towers over the town is crowned by the picturesque ruins of a mediaeval fortress, partly built on the foundations of ancient walls that mark the Acropolis of the ancient city. These ruins, and the name itself―officially, the town is now once again called Amphissa―are all that remains of it. A plentiful spring flows down at the fortress rock, and it bubbles up in many wells in the town. The streets were lively and full of idlers and of handworkers, who sat with their work under the open sky outside the houses, as is usual in the south. Since we had brought no recommendation with us here, we asked in the Greek manner, without shy- ness, for the Demarch (the town bailiff). He soon appeared and kindly saw to it that we and our mules got rest and refreshment. The people were amazed at our very unusual adventure, since we were traveling without a guide and a dragoman, who are otherwise accustomed to be milord’s constant companions.

Ingvald Undset:

I shall not attempt to give detailed description of modern Greek life or of the classical remains, many of which we were able to see. But our visit was too short to enable us to get to know the new Greece and its people more closely, and there are so many excellent descriptions of Athens’ ruins that I shall not repeat here what the reader may know very well from other books. Our stay of a few weeks was extremely interesting. Although I spent most of my time working in the museums, I received fleeting impressions of the external phys- iognomy of the city, not only of the ancient ruins, but also of the modern Eu- ropean capital and of the contemporary national life down in the old part of the town, in the bazaar and in the small streets, both up towards the Acropolis and down towards Hermes Street. We saw the same open-air life here that we had come to know in the other Greek cities, where trade and commerce, as well as spending time together and discussing seemed to be most people’s primary occupation and interest. The colorful oriental garments; the many vivacious people; all the motley life between the small houses and booths, between which

24 Around 11 o’clock, we reached Salona, the ancient Amphissa, the capital city of groups of ancient columns, blackened and broken, rose up; or the picturesque lit- the Ozolian Locrians. It lies deep within the north-eastern part of the plain, right tle Byzantine churches, with many fragments of ancient architecture and stones at the foot of the level ascent of the Coraz, which towers up with its snow-clad with inscriptions inserted into their walls―all these images were extremely pic- peaks several hundred feet above Parnassus, and is only a quarter of a mile away turesque and characteristically oriental. We were struck by the fact that the entire from its south-west corner. This is one of the country’s larger and more prosper- race here in Athens looks different from what we know as the ancient Greek types. ous towns, with between seven and eight thousand inhabitants. The houses are There were indeed handsome, vigorous men to be seen, but none of the pure, fairly respectable, some with several stories and windows, but most of them are regular types that we call Greek. The people seem to be a somewhat degenerate, built of clay. The town is surrounded by gardens in bloom. A steep height that crippled race, with angular, irregular features. There were not so many women towers over the town is crowned by the picturesque ruins of a mediaeval fortress, to be seen on the streets, and we have nothing to relate about the modern Greek partly built on the foundations of ancient walls that mark the Acropolis of the beauties, because we saw none. We saw many students up at the University, some ancient city. These ruins, and the name itself―officially, the town is now once of whom were good-looking. They looked particularly fine when (as many of again called Amphissa―are all that remains of it. A plentiful spring flows down them did) they wore their new national costumes, with dazzling white sleeves and at the fortress rock, and it bubbles up in many wells in the town. The streets fustanella, colored, gold-braided trousers and waistcoats, and a saber at the belt; were lively and full of idlers and of handworkers, who sat with their work under I do not know if these students were members of a patriotic youth organization. the open sky outside the houses, as is usual in the south. Since we had brought no recommendation with us here, we asked in the Greek manner, without shy- Modern Athens has its greatest importance as a capital and a royal residence. ness, for the Demarch (the town bailiff). He soon appeared and kindly saw to It is only in the last two generations that the city has grown to any size, and its it that we and our mules got rest and refreshment. The people were amazed population does not yet amount to 100,000 persons. In earlier centuries, and at our very unusual adventure, since we were traveling without a guide and a in the Middle Ages, it is said to have been almost deserted for a short period. dragoman, who are otherwise accustomed to be milord’s constant companions. Now, the new urban districts look very splendid; and the newly planted alleys of trees and the monumental buildings that wealthy Greek patriots have built Ingvald Undset: and given as a gift to their fatherland make an important contribution to this splendid appearance. These buildings include an astronomic observatory, the I shall not attempt to give detailed description of modern Greek life or of the university, the academy, the polytechnic college, and several institutes of high- classical remains, many of which we were able to see. But our visit was too er education. The most striking of these buildings, although perhaps not the short to enable us to get to know the new Greece and its people more closely, most beautiful, is the academy, which was paid for by the Greek-born Baron and there are so many excellent descriptions of Athens’ ruins that I shall not Sina in Vienna, and was erected by the Danish Viennese architect Theophilus repeat here what the reader may know very well from other books. Our stay Hansen in Pentelic marble in the classical style, with a consistent polychrome of a few weeks was extremely interesting. Although I spent most of my time decoration with a rich application of blue, red, and gold. It was very interest- working in the museums, I received fleeting impressions of the external phys- ing to see these accoutrements (of which only faint remains can be detected on iognomy of the city, not only of the ancient ruins, but also of the modern Eu- the ancient architectural remains) applied here consistently on a marble build- ropean capital and of the contemporary national life down in the old part of ing in the classical style. It looked rich and splendid in this dry and infinitely the town, in the bazaar and in the small streets, both up towards the Acropolis sunny air. It is very different from the glorious parliament building in Vienna, and down towards Hermes Street. We saw the same open-air life here that we built by the same architect, but unfinished. Its main forms are like those of the had come to know in the other Greek cities, where trade and commerce, as well academy in Athens. On my last visit to Vienna, the polychrome decoration had as spending time together and discussing seemed to be most people’s prima- been carried out only as an experiment on a few parts of the building, and I ry occupation and interest. The colorful oriental garments; the many vivacious do not know if it has since been completed. But I recall that when I saw it in people; all the motley life between the small houses and booths, between which Vienna in wintertime, under a gray sky heavy with clouds, my immediate im-

24 25 pression waswas that that this this decoration decoration would would not looknot welllook for well very forlong very under long the weatherunder theconditions weather north conditions of the Alps, north with snowof the and sleetAlps, and with the smokesnow fromand coalsleet firesand in thea modernsmoke European from coalcity. fires in a modern European city.

Portrait of Ingvald Undset as a young man Foto: Omenta, Miron B./NTNU Universitetsbiblioteket 0001 Henrik Mathiesen

26 pression was that this decoration would not look well for very long Carl W. Schnitler: under the weather conditions north of the Alps, with snow and sleet and the smoke from coal fires in a modern European city. It may perhaps happen that one is caught up in ecstasy on seeing many things that one would pass by indifferently in every other country. The imagination, and the splendor that comes from a great past, beautify reality and the present day. Some people would say that one is lying to oneself. In February and March this year, the Svenska Dagbladet newspaper published a series of letters from Count Hugo Wachtmeister about his travels. He writes that he attempt- ed to describe Greece as it is, not as it ought to be in virtue of its past. He speaks ironically of the archaeologists and the others who travel with Homer and Plato on their brains, and with their ideas about the glories of ancient Hel- las. He asks whether it is the landscape that has changed, or the men of old who have told tall tales in their descriptions of nature. He cannot conceive of a country that is more scrawny and poor, a land that is more hopelessly uniform with its sterile rocky deserts, its wastelands empty of human habitations, and its cities devoid of life, of traffic, and of every trace of comfort. With lauda- ble self-knowledge, he does indeed go on to say: “I have in the meantime recognized that I was unworthy. It all seemed dead to me―incomprehensible.”

This, then, is the effect Greece has on one who is not burdened down by historical knowledge either of the country or of the classical spirit and art, and who can, at the very least, be suspected of seeing everything “through romantic-tinted spectacles.” Despite this, his words have a salutary freshness and a lack of affectation; but one cannot avoid wondering why such a man undertakes a journey to Greece, rather than choosing any other Europe- an or American territory, where he is certain of finding both luxuriant smil- ing nature and luxury hotels. Greece is particularly short of luxury hotels.

Sentimentality about ruins is, of course, a vulgar phenomenon. It often creates a false pathos, with which every average tourist likes to equip himself. On the other hand, one may surely affirm that it need not in the least be an affectation when one records, as one of the great high days in one’s life, the day on which one en- tered through the Propylaea and set one’s foot on Athene’s sacred fortress ground.

For some people, the act of seeing this land, its monuments, or the historical points at which Europe’s destiny more than once has been decided, has no significance, Portrait of Ingvald Undset as a young man Foto: Omenta, Miron B./NTNU Universitetsbiblioteket 0001 and it communicates no vital values to them. It is very unfair to mock them for this. Henrik Mathiesen

26 27 There are others whose primary interest is in the people that lives today on the soil of ancient Hellas―in Panhellenism and in other political and ethno- graphical problems. This is because, over the course of the millennia since the days of the Persian Wars, the clash between East and West has been harshest in this furthermost south-east corner of our part of the world, and it is precisely today that we are experiencing the latest waves in the perennial struggle between the peoples of the Orient and of Europe. This is a struggle between the European culture, on the one hand, which grew up in this precise place and that put forth here its earliest blooms, more beautiful than in any other place, and on the other hand, the Oriental view of life that can never be ours.

And finally, there are those who believe that the culture that came to birth on this soil two and half millennia ago is a highpoint in what the whole of humanity in East and West has brought forth, and that classical antiquity possesses values of human wisdom and of artistic form that are not tied to one particular place, but that are eternal and belong to all humankind. For them, experiencing the classical, the Greek landscape is something else and something more than historical romanticism. And to see Greek art on the soil out of which it grew is more than an abstract aesthetic enthusiasm with no value for the present day. This is because classical antiquity is as alive and valid today as when it was creat- ed. It is perhaps more valid today that it ever was. Europe is out of joint, and the constructive power, the lofty rest that is present in antiquity contains something of the healing and resignation that our time needs. As long as European culture lasts, it will never be “finished” with antiquity. We neither can nor should imi- tate it, and we achieve nothing by turning ourselves into classicists. But we can never appropriate too much of its spirit and method. Thanks to its affirmation of all that is human, its deep-rooted autonomy, its sublime simplicity, clarity, and feeling for form, the period of its flowering seems to us like an unattainable golden age that radiates all the more strongly against the background of a Eu- rope that even then was more or less held captive in a state of archaic barbarity.

Accordingly, if the main point of one’s journey is art, one is (so to speak) com- pelled to be a venerator of the past and an enthusiast in this country, where almost all the artistic monuments of any value are remains from the past. And that in turn means: from the classical past. There is some Byzantine church art and secular architecture, as for example in Mistra, but otherwise there are few monuments from the middle ages, and those that exist are not particularly striking. The exception is Salonika, which Greece is allowed to keep hold of as the last remnant of its dream of a Great Hellas. But there is no Renaissance art.

28 There are others whose primary interest is in the people that lives today on It isis on on this this point point that that the thehistorical historical development development of this of countrythis country diverges diverg most- the soil of ancient Hellas―in Panhellenism and in other political and ethno- stronglyes most fromstrongly that offrom Italy. Therethat areof Italy.some Franco-ByzantineThere are some and Franco-Byzan Venetian cas- graphical problems. This is because, over the course of the millennia since the tlestine and and fortress Venetian sites, whichcastles basicallyand fortress appear sites,to be fromwhich recent basically centuries. appear I could to days of the Persian Wars, the clash between East and West has been harshest notbe discoverfrom recent any significantcenturies. Imodern could art not at all,discover neither anyin architecture significant nor modernin pic- in this furthermost south-east corner of our part of the world, and it is pre- torialart at art.all, Mostneither of thein architecturefew recent monumental nor in pictorial buildings art. Mostin Athens of the have few been re- cisely today that we are experiencing the latest waves in the perennial struggle erectedcent monumental by foreigners. buildings in Athens have been erected by foreigners. between the peoples of the Orient and of Europe. This is a struggle between the European culture, on the one hand, which grew up in this precise place It is isclassical classical antiquity, antiquity, and not and least notthe landscape,least the that landscape, capture one’s that attention cap- and that put forth here its earliest blooms, more beautiful than in any other andture one’sone’s imagination attention andand never one’s let themimagination go. and never let them go. place, and on the other hand, the Oriental view of life that can never be ours. If, therefore, someone will say: “I(I am traveling with a greater interest in the And finally, there are those who believe that the culture that came to birth on Greece that once existed and in its dead past, rather than in the way it lives this soil two and half millennia ago is a highpoint in what the whole of human- today, and thatthat II willwill accordinglyaccordingly givegive myselfmyself thethe evilevil namename ofof ‘‘romantic”) ‘‘romantic” ity in East and West has brought forth, and that classical antiquity possesses ―—well,well, I agreeagree withwith him. him. values of human wisdom and of artistic form that are not tied to one particular place, but that are eternal and belong to all humankind. For them, experiencing the classical, the Greek landscape is something else and something more than historical romanticism. And to see Greek art on the soil out of which it grew is more than an abstract aesthetic enthusiasm with no value for the present day. This is because classical antiquity is as alive and valid today as when it was creat- ed. It is perhaps more valid today that it ever was. Europe is out of joint, and the constructive power, the lofty rest that is present in antiquity contains something of the healing and resignation that our time needs. As long as European culture lasts, it will never be “finished” with antiquity. We neither can nor should imi- tate it, and we achieve nothing by turning ourselves into classicists. But we can never appropriate too much of its spirit and method. Thanks to its affirmation of all that is human, its deep-rooted autonomy, its sublime simplicity, clarity, and feeling for form, the period of its flowering seems to us like an unattainable golden age that radiates all the more strongly against the background of a Eu- rope that even then was more or less held captive in a state of archaic barbarity.

28 29

Scholarly encounters

Scholarly encounters Christian Bugge: Wednesday, 16th March We left Syra this morning on the Austrian Lloyd Company’s steamship Mahmudie and returned to Athens. This steamship plies the Lloyd Compa- ny’s route between Syros and Piraeus, taking on board post and passagers in Syros from the larger steamship that lands once a week at that place, on its route from Trieste to Smyrna and Constantinople. Since we had left our passports in Athens, it was not without considerable difficulties that we were able to get a ticket. There were several passengers who came on board from the Europa, and I made several interesting acquaintances among them. These included a young American classical scholar, Mr. Bliss from Saint Louis, and the famous painter, Professor Karl Rahl from Vienna, who had been sent there by Bar- on Sinas inin ViennaVienna toto paintpaint aa portraitportrait of of the the King King and and the the Queen Queen. . He was an elderly, jovial man with the genuine GemütlichkeitGemütlichkeit of a southern German, and he united warm sympathies for Greece with a thorough education in the classics. As a portrait painter, he had studied in depth the ancient Greek types of face in the rich collections of portrait busts in Germany and Italy.

Besides this, thanks to his reading of the works on the modern Greeks’ na- tionality by the learned historian Fallmerayer, he had imbibed a great deal of this professor’s skepticism about the provenance of this people from the ancient Hellenes. He was extremely interested now in acquiring certainty with his own eyes about the correctness of Fallmerayer’s views, and he really went on a hunt for ancient Greek physiognomies in Athens. It is, of course, true that the opinion of such a man on this subject must have a rare weight, and I found it not unimportant, when we later often spent time together in Athens, to hear him present the results that he had arrived at by observing on the lanes and streets the facial type of the race that is alive today. After convincing himself through the evidence of his own eyes, he assured me that he could no longer have a shadow of doubt, as far as the Athenians were concerned: they were not descended from the Greeks. In the whole of Athens’ population, he had scarcely found ten or twenty classical profiles. The formation of the face pointed incon- trovertibly to a dual origin: the broad, blunt, or flat nose, the thick lips, and the broad faces with protuberant chins indicated the Slavic race, and the promi- nent forehead, the crooked aquiline nose, pointed chin, and the oval form of the face indicated the Albanian race. This, of course, is only a judgment about ______He is still living in Athens, and at the present time (1860) he is engaged in decorating the Hall of Columns in the University, erected by the Danish Professor Christian Hansen, with fresco paintings of scenes from ancient Greek history. This too is being paid for by Sinas. 32 Christian Bugge: the Athenian or Attic population. The latter is very mixed, and has absorbed many Wednesday, 16th March foreign elements; this is something that one can know beforehand, and something We left Syra this morning on the Austrian Lloyd Company’s steamship that the evidence of one’s own eyes quickly convinces one of. Indeed, there is no Mahmudie and returned to Athens. This steamship plies the Lloyd Compa- longer any shadow of doubt that the entire population of Attica is entirely Albani- ny’s route between Syros and Piraeus, taking on board post and passagers in an; and the more educated Greeks themselves admit this. But it is equally incon- Syros from the larger steamship that lands once a week at that place, on its route trovertible that the ethnic groups on the islands and the coasts of Asia Minor, and from Trieste to Smyrna and Constantinople. Since we had left our passports perhaps to an even higher degree in the more remote valleys in central Greece, are in Athens, it was not without considerable difficulties that we were able to get completely different. Later on, I myself had the occasion to convince myself of this. a ticket. There were several passengers who came on board from the Europa, and I made several interesting acquaintances among them. These included a In addition to Professor Kahl, I made perhaps an even more interesting ac- young American classical scholar, Mr. Bliss from Saint Louis, and the famous quaintance in his companion, the Danish architect Theofil Hansen, who, like painter, Professor Karl Rahl from Vienna, who had been sent there by Bar- his older brother, Professor Christian Hansen, seems to be sufficiently well on Sinas in Vienna to paint a portrait of the King and the Queen . He was known to the Norwegian public. While the older brother was busy on a plan an elderly, jovial man with the genuine Gemütlichkeit of a southern German, for our Parliament building, the younger brother was employed in Athens in and he united warm sympathies for Greece with a thorough education in sketching the plan for a grandiose “Academy of the Sciences.” The Greek em- the classics. As a portrait painter, he had studied in depth the ancient Greek issary in Vienna, the millionaire Baron Simon Sinas, whom I have mentioned types of face in the rich collections of portrait busts in Germany and Italy. above, has with a truly princely generosity contributed the financial means for this project. I was, of course, doubly interested in this noble artist, of whose Besides this, thanks to his reading of the works on the modern Greeks’ na- skill in Athens I had already heard so much―and whose brother has won tionality by the learned historian Fallmerayer, he had imbibed a great deal of fame there through glorious monumental buildings, in the Greek universi- this professor’s skepticism about the provenance of this people from the an- ty, constructed in the noblest style, in the beautiful French Academy, and so cient Hellenes. He was extremely interested now in acquiring certainty with his on―because, in him, I met a half-Norwegian (his father came from Dram- own eyes about the correctness of Fallmerayer’s views, and he really went on a men) with whom I could talk in my native language. His contacts with me later hunt for ancient Greek physiognomies in Athens. It is, of course, true that the were both instructive and interesting. Of all the architects alive today, Hansen opinion of such a man on this subject must have a rare weight, and I found it is recognized as the one who has penetrated most deeply, with an artistic con- not unimportant, when we later often spent time together in Athens, to hear sciousness, into the ancient art of building, and he puts its principles into prac- him present the results that he had arrived at by observing on the lanes and tice in his own works with a rare expertise and an acknowledged geniality. streets the facial type of the race that is alive today. After convincing himself through the evidence of his own eyes, he assured me that he could no longer Ingvald Undset: have a shadow of doubt, as far as the Athenians were concerned: they were not descended from the Greeks. In the whole of Athens’ population, he had scarcely Visiting Heinrich Schliemann found ten or twenty classical profiles. The formation of the face pointed incon- On one of the first days of my stay in Athens, I visited him in his marble palace trovertibly to a dual origin: the broad, blunt, or flat nose, the thick lips, and the on the University Boulevard. I had met Schliemann and his wife at an academic broad faces with protuberant chins indicated the Slavic race, and the promi- congress in Germany a few years earlier. I learned that Virchow had written to nent forehead, the crooked aquiline nose, pointed chin, and the oval form of him to say that he could expect me in Athens, and that he had recommend- the face indicated the Albanian race. This, of course, is only a judgment about ed me very warmly. I was therefore now met with the most exquisite friendli- ______ness; that same evening, Schliemann returned my visit in my hotel and told me He is still living in Athens, and at the present time (1860) he is engaged in decorating the Hall that he was always at home to me. The porter and the servants had been given of Columns in the University, erected by the Danish Professor Christian Hansen, with fresco ordersbeen given to let orders me in, towhenever let me in,and whenever wherever andI wanted; wherever his libraryI wanted; and hishis librarycollec- paintings of scenes from ancient Greek history. This too is being paid for by Sinas. 32 33 tionsandand his were hiscollections alwayscollections open were were for always me, always when open open I forwished forme, me, whento workwhen I wishedthere. I wished His to workwifeto work also there. there. let Hisme His knowwifewife also that also let they letme ateme know breakfastknow that that they at theyhalf-past ate atebreakfast breakfast twelve at and half-pastat dinnerhalf-past twelve at twelveseven and o’clock, and dinner dinner and at at thatsevenseven for o’clock, as o’clock, long and as and Ithat was that for in forAthens,as longas long asthere Ias was wouldI was in Athens,inalways Athens, bethere athere place would would set alwaysfor always me beat be theira placea placetable, set setwheneverfor forme me at Itheirat had their table,the table, time whenever andwhenever the I inclination had I had the the time to time come.and and the I enjoyedthe inclination inclination this exceptionalto come.to come. I enjoyedhospitality I enjoyed this asthis exceptionaloften exceptional as my hospitality studies hospitality in asthe oftenas museumsoften as as my permitted studiesmy studies inme inthe to the domuseums museumsso, and permittedI spent permitted many me highlyme to doto pleasant doso, so,and and hoursI spent I spent in thismany many splendid highly highly Trojanpleasant pleasant house, hours hours with in in thisthis remarkablesplendid splendid Trojan man Trojan andhouse, house, his withendearing with this this remarkable wife. remarkable man man and and his hisendearing endearing wife. wife.

Undset’sUndset’s notebook notebook from from Athens Athens NB NB(Nasjonalbiblioteket) (Nasjonalbiblioteket) Ms.4º Ms.4º 858:27. 858:27. Undset, Undset, Ingvald. Ingvald. Etterlatte Etterlatte papirer. papirer. StudiereiseStudiereise i Italia i Italia inferiore inferiore ed orientale ed orientale samt samt Grækenland Grækenland 1883. 1883.

SchliemannSchliemann himselfhimself himself isis aa is small, small,a small, inconspicuous inconspicuous inconspicuous man; man; man; his his face hisface isface isneither neitheris neither really re - re- beautifulallyally beautiful beautiful nor attractive; nor nor attractive; attractive; his expression his hisexpression expressionis almost is uncomfortably almostis almost uncomfortably uncomfortably nervous, almostnerv nerv- - grumpy;ous,ous, almost almost there grumpy; aregrumpy; lines there aroundthere are are linesthe lines mouth around around that the denotethe mouth mouth will-power that that denote denote and will-pow energy.will-pow- - Buter er andone and needenergy. energy. not But spend But one muchone need need time not notspeaking spend spend muchwith much him, time time before speaking speaking one haswith withthe him, im him,- pressionbeforebefore one of one anhas interesting has the the impression impression and singular of ofan personality. aninteresting interesting and and singular singular personality. personality.

HisHis most most striking striking characteristic characteristic is hisis hisexceptional exceptional enthusiasm enthusiasm for forthe the Homer Homer- - ic ageic age and and for forhis hisown own studies, studies, which which seek seek to shedto shed light light on onthis this age age by bymeans means of excavations.of excavations. He Hecan, can, of course,of course, quote quote the the whole whole of Homerof Homer by byheart, heart, but but he he readsreads the the texts texts again again and and again again with with the the same same joy. joy. He Hehas has also also read read extreme extreme 34 34 and his collections were always open for me, when I wished to work there. His ly widely and knows the whole of ancient Greek literature; but one soon notes wife also let me know that they ate breakfast at half-past twelve and dinner at that he is not himself a classical scholar, and he has largely taken over the re- seven o’clock, and that for as long as I was in Athens, there would always be sults of academic studies of classical antiquity. His critical faculties are small, a place set for me at their table, whenever I had the time and the inclination or at any rate restricted in their development by the enthusiastic way in which to come. I enjoyed this exceptional hospitality as often as my studies in the he reads and thinks. His knowledge is very wide, and he is still―as he always museums permitted me to do so, and I spent many highly pleasant hours in was―unusually industrious and hard-working. He also possesses a surprising this splendid Trojan house, with this remarkable man and his endearing wife. memory. But he did not acquire his prodigious knowledge in a planned manner, nor is it structured. It is not his own intellectual possession in such a way that one could call him a genuinely learned man. He is not a man of science in the proper sense of that term. Besides this, his critical faculty and his judgment are not sufficiently developed. His knowledge of languages is surprising; that is to say, his mechanical ability to learn foreign languages and to be able to speak them. He reads, writes, and speaks more or less all the European languages, even Swedish, Finnish, Polish, and Russian, as well as Turkish, Arabic, and many others. At home in his house, Greek is spoken all the time; but if a foreigner is present, he or she can choose the language. As I have mentioned, English has become his second mother tongue. He himself writes his books in English, and has other persons produce the German and French editions.

I worked for several days in his large library, and thus had the occasion to make interesting observations about his studies. The works that are most highly es- teemed and regarded as the most fundamental in the academic world of classical studies were the least used works here; he had nearly everything that had been published recently about classical antiquity, but while the strictly methodical works from the German philological school were often unopened, he had read with great precision everything in French and English; these books were often Undset’s notebook from Athens popular and half-dilettantish legends. He was excessively one-sided both in his NB (Nasjonalbiblioteket) Ms.4º 858:27. Undset, Ingvald. Etterlatte papirer. studies and in his interests; he was not so interested in anything that was not Studiereise i Italia inferiore ed orientale samt Grækenland 1883. related, either closely or more distantly, to the Homeric past and to his own studies. Indeed, in his naïve enthusiasm, this past and his own studies and in- Schliemann himself is a small, inconspicuous man; his face is neither re- vestigations were meant to shed light on what was central and most important ally beautiful nor attractive; his expression is almost uncomfortably nerv- both in the study of classical antiquity and in scholarship as a whole. I had to ous, almost grumpy; there are lines around the mouth that denote will-pow- smile when we talked about recently published works in archaeology, and he er and energy. But one need not spend much time speaking with him, would sum upup hishis verdictverdict in in a a statement statement such such as: as: “That “That is bookbook isis ofof nono use now; before one has the impression of an interesting and singular personality. I have found nothing in it that I could quote!” I received many compliments about my most recent monograph: “Your book is a most excellent and valu- His most striking characteristic is his exceptional enthusiasm for the Homer- able work.work. InI the the book book that that II amam aboutabout toto publish,publish, II had to quote it sixsix times!”times!” ic age and for his own studies, which seek to shed light on this age by means of excavations. He can, of course, quote the whole of Homer by heart, but he These peculiarities and irregularities in his academic formation are explained, reads the texts again and again with the same joy. He has also read extreme of course, by his strange life story and by his special intellectual abilities. His 34 35 greatest ability is certainly his enthusiasm for the idea that took up its residence in him when he was only a child, the idea that became a plan for his life, and that was realized in the course of a long and exceedingly industrious life. This enthusiasm has filled him, and fills him now, to such a degree that he regards the rest of existence, with the most beautiful and happy naivety, as less important. He must have been a capable businessman, since he was able to earn such an enormous fortune in less than twenty years. Even now, he can envisage earning money. Although he has spent huge sums of money on his excavations, he has always organized his capital in such a way that his wealth has constantly increased. He has earned large sums with his books, which always appear simultaneously in London, Leipzig, Paris, and New York, that is to say, in four editions. And he im- pressed upon me with all seriousness that a scholar must see that he earns money with his books, for what he puts into them is his capital. He therefore advised me urgently to see to it that my books did not appear exclusively in German editions; he said that one earned most money with the American versions. I was completely in agreement with him that, for a scholar, money is the most necessary means of all, in order to reach the goals one sets for oneself. But I could not believe that the books of just any author would have the same success in America as those books that had such a celebrated name as Schliemann’s on the title page.

It would be both foolish and unjust if one were to judge Schliemann in his relationship to scholarship by applying to him the same criterion that one would ap- ply to a normal scholar. It is absurd when he is simply dismissed by calling him a charlatan and a fantasist, an academic impossibility, etc., as we often heard in the years immediately following his first publications. At that time too, in much of what he wrote, there were things that called for a strict judgment; his books contained expressions of contempt for other men and their work, and dismissive judgments in matters where he himself lacked competence. As time has gone by, this characteristic has vanished in Schliemann. If one wishes to judge him now, one must regard him as an exceptional case, as a phenomenon ―and that is what he is. It is truly phenomenal when a young boy decides to carry out huge scientific investigations, but then recognizes that enormous sums of money will be required, in order to do so. He then begins by working until he is a millionaire, and after he has become a millionaire, when he is fifty years old, he begins to study, so that he can make use of his resources to promote his academic ideals. A just evaluation of Schliemann would therefore be admiration of his enthusiastic energy and of his genial enthusiasm, which has performed such exceptional services to scholarship. A just evaluation would acknowledge these services with a profound feeling of gratitude for such a unique selflessness and willingness to make sacrifices. 36 greatest ability is certainly his enthusiasm for the idea that took up its residence Some years after the blow of fate that I have mentioned above, when Minna, in him when he was only a child, the idea that became a plan for his life, and whom he had loved as a child, married another man, Schliemann married a that was realized in the course of a long and exceedingly industrious life. This Russian woman, who however died young. In 1870, at the beginning of his Tro- enthusiasm has filled him, and fills him now, to such a degree that he regards the jan excavations, he married his present wife. She is an Athenian, much younger rest of existence, with the most beautiful and happy naivety, as less important. He than him, and she is just as enthusiastic about Homer as he is; she has taken must have been a capable businessman, since he was able to earn such an enor- part with him in all his excavations. For all who have been fortunate enough mous fortune in less than twenty years. Even now, he can envisage earning mon- to get to know her, she is the greatest attraction in his house. She is a beautiful ey. Although he has spent huge sums of money on his excavations, he has always and remarkably witty woman; her linguistic gifts are almost as great as his, but organized his capital in such a way that his wealth has constantly increased. He otherwise she is much superior to him in her intellectual abilities. It would not has earned large sums with his books, which always appear simultaneously in be easy to find a more delightful lady, with a finer intellectual formation, -an London, Leipzig, Paris, and New York, that is to say, in four editions. And he im- ywhere in the world, and she has made his splendid marble palace in Athens pressed upon me with all seriousness that a scholar must see that he earns mon- an exceptionally refined and comfortable home, which remains unforgettable ey with his books, for what he puts into them is his capital. He therefore advised for the stranger who has been so fortunate as to get to know it. They have two me urgently to see to it that my books did not appear exclusively in German children: a daughter, Andromache, who was a twelve-year-old girl at the time editions; he said that one earned most money with the American versions. I was of my visit and showed signs of becoming a lady like her mother, and a son, completely in agreement with him that, for a scholar, money is the most neces- who was six years old at that time, the golden-haired Agamemnon, a captivat- sary means of all, in order to reach the goals one sets for oneself. But I could not ing but terribly coddled boy. Schliemann lives a happy life in this home, with believe that the books of just any author would have the same success in America his enthusiasm, his studies, and his delightful family. As a child, he prayed to as those books that had such a celebrated name as Schliemann’s on the title page. God that he might learn the Greek language, and here it has become his daily tongue, in which he speaks, not indeed with Minna, but with his dear Sophia It would be both foolish and unjust if one were to judge Schliemann in his rela- and his little Andromache. And little Agamemnon, whom he has with him every tionship to scholarship by applying to him the same criterion that one would ap- day, is surely no less dear to him than “that king of the Mycenaeans” in Homer. ply to a normal scholar. It is absurd when he is simply dismissed by calling him a charlatan and a fantasist, an academic impossibility, etc., as we often heard in When Schliemann first lived in Athens, his situation was not entirely comforta- the years immediately following his first publications. At that time too, in much ble, with the Greek scholars on the one side and the patriots on the other. Those of what he wrote, there were things that called for a strict judgment; his books with an academic formation continually repeated those harsh verdicts about contained expressions of contempt for other men and their work, and dismissive him that the German philological criticism had been obliged to utter about judgments in matters where he himself lacked competence. As time has gone his first publications; and the patriots saw in a foreigner’s enthusiasm for the by, this characteristic has vanished in Schliemann. If one wishes to judge him Homeric past, and in his desire to be a Greek, something like an unjustified now, one must regard him as an exceptional case, as a phenomenon ―and that invasion among them, and they met him with indignation. However, after the is what he is. It is truly phenomenal when a young boy decides to carry out huge verdict on Schliemann in Germany changed its character to some extent, the scientific investigations, but then recognizes that enormous sums of money will Greeks too changed their attitudes towards him. Now, they spoke of him al- be required, in order to do so. He then begins by working until he is a million- most with pride, and they took pleasure in visiting him. During the winter after aire, and after he has become a millionaire, when he is fifty years old, he begins my visit, I read in the newspapers long accounts of a great banquet that he had to study, so that he can make use of his resources to promote his academic ideals. given in his house, attended by the highest Greek circles, with Their Majesties A just evaluation of Schliemann would therefore be admiration of his enthusias- at the head. There had been more than 1,200 guests. At the time when I was tic energy and of his genial enthusiasm, which has performed such exceptional in Athens, he gave a smaller fête littorale (party on the beach) with dinner in services to scholarship. A just evaluation would acknowledge these services with the bathing hotel in Phaleron. His villa down there was not yet completely fin- a profound feeling of gratitude for such a unique selflessness and willingness to ished. I myself was invited, as were the German, English, and American dip- make sacrifices. lomats and archaeologists who were resident in Athens, as well as some trave- 36 37 lers; it was a pleasant and fine little feast. Schliemann himself was in Phaleron earlylers; it each was morning;a pleasant I andheard fine that little he rode feast. down Schliemann there at 5himself o’clock wasevery in dayPhaleron and oversawearly each the morning; builders Iwho heard were that working he rode on down his villa. there After at 5 o’clock taking every a sunbath, day and he returnedoversaw the to thebuilders day’s workwho were in his working study. on his villa. After taking a sunbath, he returned to the day’s work in his study.

Schliemann’s invitation to Ingvald Undset HeinrichSchliemann’s Schliemann/NTNU invitation to Ingvald Universitetsbiblioteket Undset Thorvald Boecks brev-Heinrich og autografsamling Schliemann/NTNU Universitetsbiblioteket Thorvald Boecks brev- og autografsamling

I remember so clearly the last evening I spent with Schliemann in Athens. At the endI remember of the evening so clearly or at the the last beginning evening of I spentthe night, with we Schliemann always spent in Athens.an hour onAt the flatend ofroof the ofevening the house; or at thisthe beginningtime too, ofwe thewalked night, up we and always down spent there, an hourSchliemann, on the hisflat wife, roof andof the myself. house; It thiswas timean enchanting too, we walked night inup earlyand downsummer; there, the Schliemann, air was so purehis wife, and andcool myself. after the It washot anday; enchanting a weak moonshine night in earlyallowed summer; us to glimpse the air wasthe cityso atpure our and feet, cool but after above the all, hot the day;glorious a weak contours moonshine of the allowed mountains us to thatglimpse form the a gar city- atland our around feet, but the above Attic all,plain. the In glorious the foreground, contours weof the saw mountains the sharply that cut form rock ofa gar the- Acropolisland around with the the Attic row plain. of columns In the foreground, in the Parthenon. we saw Farthe outsharply on the cut sea, rock we of saw the theAcropolis gable-shaped with the mountain row of columns tops of Aegina, in the Parthenon. with the mountains Far out on of theArgolis sea, behindwe saw them.the gable-shaped Our conversation mountain was topsabout of human Aegina, beings’ with the fate, mountains and the plans of Argolis they make behind for theirthem. lives. Our conversationMy own thoughts was about found human their best beings’ expression fate, and in the something plans they that make Mrs. for Schliemanntheir lives. My said own to herthoughts husband: found “Heinrich, their best even expression if your Minnain something turned thatout toMrs. be calledSchliemann Sophia, said your to herlife husband:is an adventure “Heinrich, story even―except if your for Minna the fact turned that it out is true!” to be called Sophia, your life is an adventure story―except for the fact that it is true!” 38 38 lers; it was a pleasant and fine little feast. Schliemann himself was in Phaleron earlylers; it each was morning;a pleasant I andheard fine that little he rode feast. down Schliemann there at 5himself o’clock wasevery in dayPhaleron and oversawearly each the morning; builders Iwho heard were that working he rode on down his villa. there After at 5 o’clock taking every a sunbath, day and he Translation of Greek review of Undset’s book returnedoversaw the to thebuilders day’s workwho were in his working study. on his villa. After taking a sunbath, he (see original on the next pages) returned to the day’s work in his study. A new Scandinavian scholarly edition titled Fra Akershus til Akropolis (‘‘From Akerhus to Akropolis’’) has recently been published in the form of a series of chapters. The aforementioned publication is partly also of interest to us Greeks. Ingvald Undset is the name of the writer, a man quite reputed amidst his peers for his studies in prehistory. The book of the Norwegian scholar, along with his previous work, aims at publicising contemporary views on the life and doings in Greece during ancient times. The terms he uses are simple so the laymen can grasp the essence of his writings. In the chapters already issued, Undset discusses the art of the long lasting Mycenaean period which, brought from the East, flourished due to the spirit of the Achaeans. Undset also discusses the coming of the Dorians and the consequent development of another kind of art connected to [sic] Dipyloi [in all probability the writer of the review refers to the famous geometric Dipylon vases excavated in Kerameikos in the 1870s]. Those chapters constitute a brief guide to prehistoric archaeology invaluable to all archaeology researchers who are able to read the Norwegian book, written by a person with such a scientific calibre. Finally, we should also bring to Schliemann’s invitation to Ingvald Undset HeinrichSchliemann’s Schliemann/NTNU invitation to Ingvald Universitetsbiblioteket Undset Thorvald Boecks one’s attention that Ingvald Undset, who, in principle, studies Greece from afar, brev-Heinrich og autografsamling Schliemann/NTNU Universitetsbiblioteket Thorvald Boecks has recently visited the country and spent time advancing his writings in situ. brev- og autografsamling Journal Hestia, 15 January 1889 I remember so clearly the last evening I spent with Schliemann in Athens. At the endI remember of the evening so clearly or at the the last beginning evening of I spentthe night, with we Schliemann always spent in Athens.an hour onAt the flatend ofroof the ofevening the house; or at thisthe beginningtime too, ofwe thewalked night, up we and always down spent there, an hourSchliemann, on the hisflat wife, roof andof the myself. house; It thiswas timean enchanting too, we walked night inup earlyand downsummer; there, the Schliemann, air was so purehis wife, and andcool myself. after the It washot anday; enchanting a weak moonshine night in earlyallowed summer; us to glimpse the air wasthe cityso atpure our and feet, cool but after above the all, hot the day;glorious a weak contours moonshine of the allowed mountains us to thatglimpse form the a gar city- landat our around feet, but the above Attic all,plain. the In glorious the foreground, contours weof the saw mountains the sharply that cut form rock ofa gar the- Acropolisland around with the the Attic row plain. of columns In the foreground, in the Parthenon. we saw Farthe outsharply on the cut sea, rock we of saw the theAcropolis gable-shaped with the mountain row of columns tops of Aegina, in the Parthenon. with the mountains Far out on of theArgolis sea, behindwe saw them.the gable-shaped Our conversation mountain was topsabout of human Aegina, beings’ with the fate, mountains and the plans of Argolis they make behind for theirthem. lives. Our conversationMy own thoughts was about found human their best beings’ expression fate, and in the something plans they that make Mrs. for Schliemanntheir lives. My said own to herthoughts husband: found “Heinrich, their best even expression if your Minnain something turned thatout toMrs. be calledSchliemann Sophia, said your to herlife husband:is an adventure “Heinrich, story even―except if your for Minna the fact turned that it out is true!” to be called Sophia, your life is an adventure story―except for the fact that it is true!” 38 38 39 Handwritten copy (probably by Ingvald Undset himself) of the Hestia review

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