CONTENTS OF BOOK IV.

, Page Removing a Barrel Hook ...... 45 Making a Barrel Hook ...... 45 Inserting a Barrel Hook ...... 45 Repairing the Mainspring ...... 45 Inserting the Mainspring...... 46 Stop Works ...... 46 To Set a Stop Work...... 46 Carrier and Taper ...... 47 Centering and Making Carrier...... 4 7 To Make the Pivot Rest ...... 48 Polishing Pivots ...... 49 Bushing ...... 49 Making the Bushing...... 49 Inserting the Bushing...... 50 Side Shake ...... 50 Depthing ...... 50 Correcting the Depthing...... 50 Soft Soldering ...... 51 Straightening a Wheel Tooth...... 52 Inserting a Tooth ...... 52 Inserting a Tooth in a Barrel...... 52 Truing Escape Wheel Teeth...... 53 Truing in the Round...... 53 Shaping the Teeth ...... 53 Refinishing Pallets ...... 53 The Fiber Disk...... 54 Clock Escapements ...... 54 Dead Beat Escapement...... 55 Recoil Escapement ...... 55 Anchor Pin Escapement...... 55 How to Adjust the Escapement...... 55 Assembling a French Clock with Visible Escapement...... 56 Setting in Beat and Timing...... 58

Copyright, 1914 and 1915, by JOHN DREXLER. REMOVING A BARREL HOOK. If the hook is found broken or too short, causing the mainspring to slip, scratch an arrow on the inside of the barrel to show which way the hook points, and drill a hole in the center of the hook about three-quarters its size. From the outside of the barrel, insert a broach in the hole, strike lightly with a hammer and turn it inward until the shell from the old hook is released from the bar­ rel. If the hook is not threaded, broach the hole in it until the shell drops out and cut a thread in the hole in the barrel with a suitable sized tap. MAKING A BARREL HOOK. Select a steel wire 1.5 m.m. thicker than the threaded hole and turn a shoulder on it 2 c.m. long, tapering grad­ ually toward the end, as shown in Fig. 70. Cut a thread from about midway on the taper up to the shoulder, that will fit the thread in the barrel, and leave the lower half of the taper so that it will easily slip into the barrel. Fasten in the lathe and cut off to the desired length. Then file the face of the shoulder to a slant as at X in B, Fig. 71. File the top to a slant (Y) and file the two sides flat and slanting, as S-8 in C, which is the top view of the hook. INSERTING A BARREL HOOK. Insert this finished hook in the hole from the inside of the barrel and fasten the end in a pin vise. Turn it outward until the slanted portion that is to hold the spring is flush with the inside of the barrel, and pointing in the direction of the arrow made. ( See Fig. 72.) Then cut off the remaining wire on the outside surface of the bar­ rel, file smooth and finish with an emery stick. REPAIRING THE MAIN SPRING. If the hole is torn on the outside end of the main­ spring ( See Fig. 73) draw the temper about 1 c.m. from the end of the spring. Cut off the torn part, round off the corners, and make a heavy punch mark. Flatten, and file the hole to right size. File the part of the spring that holds on the hook slanting, leaving the sharp part on the outside of the spring. If the hook has been properly fitted, the spring will lay against the wall of the barrel. 45 The inner end is repaired the same way. If the spring is broken more than one coil from the outer end, or two coils from the inner end, replace it with a new one, the same length, breadth and thickness. INSERTING THE MAIN SPRING. You will have no difficulty in inserting a mainspring if you follow these directions: Place three-quarters of a coil of the mainspring against the inner wall of the bar­ rel, with the end opposite to the hook, and turn the barrel until the spring hooks in its place. ( See Fig. 72.) Hold the barrel firmly in one hand, and the spring in the other, with a thumb partly inserted in the barrel, and with the aid of the forefinger, press the spring against the first coil inserted. Do not release the barrel or make sharp bends in the spring. Gradually work the spring into its place, and when there is no longer room for the thumb, insert the remaining coils without releasing the spring, as in Fig. 69. When the arbor is in its place, and the spring does not hook properly, bend the last coil inward with a half round plier. Place the cover into the barrel, clamp the barrel, wrapped with heavy paper, between the jaws of the vise, and screw the vise together until the cover snaps into its place. STOP WORKS. There are various kinds of stop works used to pre­ vent extreme winding, and unwinding, of the mainspring; but the explanation of one is sufficient. Fig. 74 represents a maltese cross stop work, which consists of a disk called the male, that has one long tooth, and a maltese cross, called the female, which has five sections, one of which is longer than the others. The male is pinned to the square of the winding arbor and the female is held loosely either to the plate or the barrel with a shouldered screw. TO SET A STOP WORK. Count the teeth of the female stop, and also the num­ ber of complete turns required to fully wind the main­ spring. Subtract the former from the latter and divide the remainder by two. Unwind the spring a number of turns equal to the result thus obtained, and place the male 46 in a notch, as shown in Fig. 74, with the point X of the female resting against it. This allows an equal amount of turns on each side of the stop work. (The left hand wind is set exactly opposite, that is, Y resting against the male, instead of X.) Slowly wind the spring and ob­ serve if the male engages freely in all the sections of the female and whether the diameter (D) passes easily in the curves ( S). If the action is not free, it must be made so by shaping. If the tooth ( M) is too short, stretch it with a hammer on a block, or if too long, file it to the proper length; also notice whether the screw that holds the female stop is secure. CARRIER AND TAPER. Owing to the fact that wheels are trued from their pivots, satisfactory truing of clock wheels cannot be done except by holding the pivots in female tapers, as shown in Fig. 75. Ordinary female tapers, that can be bought, afford no means of propelling the wheels; so we explain how to make a carrier which can be used for propelling the wheel while topping the teeth and polishing the pivots. The taper that is to fit into the taper chuck must be turned smooth with a gradual taper and must correspond with the inside taper of the chuck and tailstock spindle, or it will not hold firmly when polishing pivots, as it is necessary to apply a little pressure to the pivot burnisher. When thin arbors, especially those of French clocks, are to be held between the female centers, it will be advis­ able to make small brass, or soft steel, removable bushes, with different sized holes, so they can be changed to suit different thicknesses of pivots. CENTERING AND MAKING CARRIER. Before making the female tapers, you should know how to center. Find the center before drilling the holes in the wire by turning a V in the end to receive the drill. To insure a perfect V advance the graver gradually on the line toward the center, until the center is reached, and the V appears like M, Fig. 76. If the graver is not held in the center, a little projection will appear at the point 47 of the V ( See N, Fig. 76), which will prevent the drill from entering the center. Fig. 77 shows a square back center ( C), which is held in the tailstock spindle while drilling a hole in the center of a rod (R) at right angles to its length. For making the carrier use a taper blank that fits the taper chuck of the lathe. Insert it in the chuck and fasten in the lathe. With a graver find the center, and drill a hole with a No. 47 twist drill 5 m.m. deep. Turn away the outside edge of the hole 2 m.m. deep to a V shape, to receive the shoulder of an arbor. About 6 m.m from the V end, make a punch mark and drill a hole 2 m.m in diameter through the blank by holding the drill in a chuck and the blank in the grooved V of a square back center. ( See Fig. 77.) At right angles to this hole ( See Fig. 75) drill a second hole 1 m.m. in diameter to meet it. Cut a thread and fit a screw. This screw holds the rod in the first hole drilled, so that it can be adjusted for wheels of various sizes. In the end of a steel rod, 2 m.m. thick and 2 c.m. long, drill a 0.5 m.m. hole 2.5 m.m. deep, thread it and fit a screw. 2 m.m. back on the rod from the same end, drill a 1 m.m. hole through the rod and fit a brass or steel wire 4 c.m. long, and assemble as in Fig. 75. The drill­ ing must be done slowly, when the holes meet, to avoid breaking the drill. TO MAKE THE PIVOT REST. Select a piece of brass wire which will fit a No. 50 or 55 wire chuck. Fasten in the lathe, allowing the wire to project 15 m.m. from the chuck. Turn a gradual taper 1 m.m. from the face of the chuck, extending to the end. Try occasionally to see if it fits the inside taper of the tailstock spindle or the taper chuck. When it does, file the end rounding, loosen the wire and pull it out so it extends 25 m.m. from the chuck. About 2 m.m. from the chuck cut off the blank. This will leave the wire with a heavy body on one end and a taper on the other. Place the taper in the taper chuck and tighten by tapping lightly. File or turn the end of the body flat. Center with the graver; and with a No. 65 twist drill, drill a 48 hole 5 m.m. deep. Make the lathe head rigid by press­ ing in the index pin ( See No. 18) into one of the index holes. File off 8 m.m. of the heaviest part of the taper (See Fig. 75) until only half of the hole, drilled, remains. Drill a hole 2 m.m. in diameter midway between the shoulder and the inside end of the groove. Thread the . hole, fit a screw about 8 m.m. long, and flatten its threaded end. The completed pivot support will then appear like Fig. 78. POLISHING PIVOTS. Place the carrier and brass support in pos1t10n. Mount the wheel and adjust the carrier so that it will carry the wheel. Allow very little side shake to the arbor between the carrier and the support. Set the adjusting screw ( See Fig. 78) so that the burnisher will be level on the pivot. Apply a little oil to the burnisher and pivots. With a slight pressure on the burnisher move it slowly back and forth while the lathe runs rather rapidly. Keep the burnisher sharp and occasionally examine to see if the pivot is polished. BUSHING. There are times when a pivot hole is worn so badly that bushing is necessary, especially in French clocks where the plates are heavy. Bushing wire may be used, although we prefer that you make the bushing. MAKING THE BUSHING. Broach the pivot hole about three times the size of the pivot, and remove the burr with a twist drill, by whirling it between the fingers. Select a piece of brass wire a trifle thicker than the hole in the plate, turn a barely perceptible taper extending from the end a little farther than the thickness of the plate. ( See Fig. 79.) Center, and drill a hole a little smaller than the pivot; and a little deeper than the thickness of the plate. (Run the lathe rather fast, hold the drill in a pin vise and with­ draw occasionally, to remove the shavings and oil the drill.) Then cut off the bushing about .25 m.m. longer than the thickness of the plate, fasten it in a chuck and cup the ends slightly by turning it for riveting over the plate. ( See Fig. 80.) 49 INSERTING THE BUSHING. Press the bushing in the hole, from the bottom side of the plate, with the thin end first. Lay the plate on a flat steel block, place a flat punch on the bushing and rivet the edges down by tapping the punch with a ham­ mer. Enlarge the hole with a broach until the pivot enters the hole tight, then burnish the hole with a smooth round broach to which is applied a little oil. Remove the burrs made by the broaches, and with a drill about twice the thickness of the pivot, drill the top of the bush­ ing, for an oil cup, until the pivot, when in place, pro­ jects through the top, as in Fig. 81. If the bushing is too high, lower it to the level of the plate, with a file, or grind on the emery facing plate or with an emery stick. SIDE SHAKE. The pivot should tilt an equal distance in all direc­ tions, as shown at T, in Fig. 82 ( in which T is the tilt and P is the plate) . If the tilts of the wheel are not all equal, then the hole is not broached straight or the pivot is bent; straighten the pivot, if it is bent, or correct the bushing by pressing the burnisher to the side of the hole toward which the wheel does not lean far enough. DEPTHING. The term depthing is applied to the meshing, or en­ gaging, of a wheel and pinion into one another. A depth­ ing may be correct, too deep or too shallow. If a wheel and pinion are too close together, the depthing is too deep, while if they are too far apart the depthing is too shallow. After bushing, the wheels and pinions should be tried together for the proper depthing. When leading them together, if they crack and jump, the depthing is too deep; if they slip and slide, the depthing is too shallow. In either case the depthing can be corrected by changing the bushing. The pivot holes need be moved but a trifle to produce the desired result. CORRECTING THE DEPTHING. Place the wheel and pinion, that gear together, be­ tween the plates in their respective holes. Press the fore­ finger of one hand ( or a piece of pegwood if the space 50 is too small for the finger), down on the arbor of the pinion, to act as a brake; and lead the wheel with a finger :Jf the other hand back and forth around its entire circum­ ference, and observe if the depthing is correct, and if not, how it should be altered. If the wheel and pinion gear too deep, drive out the bushing with a flat punch, and with a round file, file lightly on the side of the hole ( See X, Fig. 83) that will move the wheel and pinion apart. If the depthing is too shallow, file on the other side of the hole to bring the wheel and pinion closer together. In either case, broach the hole round and fit a new bush­ ing, according to previous instructions, but do not rivet it until the depthing is correct. After rebushing, if the depthing is too deep, or too shallow, repeat the operation.

SOFT SOLDERING. Adhere to the following instructions, and you will find soft soldering a very simple process. The metals used for making solder are chosen with a lower melting point than the metals to be united. Use a separate bench for soldering; but if this is not convenient, spread heavy paper over the bench top after the unnecessary tools are removed. Use an old plier or tweezer for holding the pieces while soldering. Never use these for anything else; as they may retain some of the soldering fluid, which will cause rust. Before soldering, the joints must be filed, so that they will fit closely, and thoroughly cleaned by either scraping or filing the parts on which the solder is to flow. Use very little solder to secure a tight and smooth joint. The alcohol lamp and blow pipe are gen~ erally used for heating. A soldering iron is used on parts where the flame would be injurious, such as a frame of a clock dial. After the joints have been properly pre­ pared, hold the pieces tightly together, or bind them with binding wire. Place a small drop of soldering fluid on the parts to be united, then a small piece of solder; and heat slowly until the solder melts and runs into the crev­ ice. If the crevice is not entirely filled, apply a little more fluid and solder, heat again, then allow the article to cool without separating the parts. ( In some cases it is best to rest the article on a piece of charcoal while sol- 51 dering.) After soldering, wash it thoroughly to prevent the soldering fluid from corroding the metal. Caution.-The fluid used for soldering is purchased in a bottle and kept in a box away from the tools, as it will rust and ruin them. STRAIGHTENING A WHEEL TOOTH. If a tooth is bent, hold the wheel in one hand and with the other, insert a screw driver between the teeth and pry toward the bent tooth, while the screw driver blade rests at the bottom of the space between the teeth, as in Fig. 84. When straightened, lay the wheel on a steel block and lightly tap the tooth and remove any roughness caused by straightening. You may also find it necessary to correct the rounding part of the tooth with a fine cut, half round, or an escapement file. INSERTING A TOOTH. If a tooth is broken, file it away and saw a dovetail ( as X Y, Fig. 85), about half as deep as the band of the wheel is wide, and with a suitable file correct the open­ ing. (Do not make it large enough to weaken the teeth on either side.) Turn a piece of brass wire, to fit the dovetail in the wheel, and the length of the tooth, as shown at A in Fig. 86. File both sides of the wire flat, leaving it a little heavier than the thickness of the wheel, as at B. Place the tooth in position, lay the wheel on a steel block and by tapping both sides lightly, rivet into the dovetail. Cut off the remaining wire and shape the tooth to correspond with the others. Grind both sides of the tooth even with the wheel, .on the emery plate. The finished tooth will then appear as in Fig. 87. (The dove­ tail may be strengthened by flowing a little soft solder in the joint after riveting, before finishing on the emery plate. As many teeth may be inserted by this method as necessary.) INSERING A TOOTH IN A BARREL. To insert a tooth in a barrel, file the space of the missing tooth smooth, and drill a hole with a drill the size of the tooth. Thread the hole and also thread a wire slightly larger than the hole into which it is to be inserted, 52 and screw it in tight. Shape the tooth by filing to corre­ spond with the others as T in Fig. 86A. One or more wires may be inserted in a row to form a tooth. Should an end of a wire protrude on the inside of the barrel, finish it off. TRUING ESCAPE WHEEL TEETH. Examine the escape wheel to see if it is true in the flat. If not, true it. If any of the teeth are bent, make a gauge from a flat piece of brass to fit between two of the teeth tha.t appear straight. Give clearance to the bottom of the gauge, as shown in Fig. 87 A. Try the gauge in all the spaces, and straighten carefully the bent teeth, by tilt­ ing the gauge in the desired direction. TRUING IN THE ROUND. When true in the flat, mount between the carrier and a female taper. Run the lathe slowly, and hold a pointed pegwood firmly on the T rest close to the outside of the wheel, and see if the teeth are of equal length. If not hold an oilstone slip or pivot file (shown in Fig. 88) firmly on the T rest and advance very slowly toward the wheel until all the teeth are of the same length. (This method may be used on any wheel.) SHAPING THE TEETH. Remove the wheel from the lathe and repaint each tooth. While resting its face on a filing block, file the back of the tooth with a half round or oval escapement file until it is pointed. Then again rest the back of the tooth on the filing block and burnish its face with a half­ round burnisher, as in Fig. 89. When the escape wheel teeth are extremely thin, correct them by burnishing with this burnisher, instead of a file. REFINISHING PALLETS. When examining the clock, you may find that the pallets are worn or beaten out, making the clock incapa­ ble of keeping correct time; carefully grind and polish them, removing no more metal than necessary, for the width of the pallets are intended to be equal to half the distance between the escape wheel teeth. If you grind the pallets too narrow, you will have to make a new verge. 53 fhe pallets must be maintained of equal width and length with their former angles retained. If you grind more from the locking face of one pallet than from the other, the drop will be made unequal. By reducing the lock­ ing face of the receiving pallet, shown at M, Fig. 90, the verge is made narrower on the outside; and the outside drop is increased a distance N. By reducing the lock­ ing face of the discharging pallet, the verge is made wider, on the inside, and the tooth, leaving the receiving pallet, drops a distance equal to the amount taken off, plus the distance which the tooth advanced from Y, Fig. 90, to Y, Fig. 91. Thus, a certain amount removed from the locking face of the discharging pallet increases the inside drop more than the same amount removed from the locking face of the receiving pallet would increase the outside drop. However, this difference is very slight and has been exaggerated in the drawing, so it may be more easily understood. When grinding pallets in the lathe, hold the verge on the T rest table, as in Fig. 92 ( in which V is the verge, T is the table, and E is the emery facing plate) . Run the lathe rapidly and press the pallet lightly against the emery facing plate. Polish on a fiber disk, to which a little diamantine and oil is applied, and give the final pol­ ish on a circular felt buff with dry diamantine. THE FIBER DISK. Make a fibre disk 5 m.m thick and 4 c.m. in diam­ eter. Mount it on a cement brass, as shown in Fig. 93. Drill and tap a hole in this cement brass, fit a screw, and turn a shoulder on the brass, so the screw ( S) binds the fiber against the brass. True it by turning. CLOCK ESCAPEMENTS. It is our aim to teach you the essential principles of clock escapements in a simple and practical manner with­ out giving too many construction lines, as you will not be called upon to construct new escapements. If all the construction lines were given in the illustrations, it would only confuse you. · As it is necessary to understand the technics and ad­ justment of escapements before assembling a French clock 54 these instructions are given now instead of later. There are three escapements which you must understand, as they are in general use. The important difference between these escapements lies in the construction of their pallets. This difference arises from the fact that the lifting faces of the pallets in the dead beat escapement are arcs of a circle ( See N and N, Fig. 94), whose center is the center of the anchor; while in the recoil escapement, the lifting faces ( B and C, Fig. 9 5), are formed by tangents to this circle ( at X). DEAD BEAT ESCAPEMENT. The first is called the dead beat escapement, because when the pendulum finishes its swing at the moment the tooth locks, it allows a moment to pass before the tooth begins to lift. RECOIL ESCAPEMENT. The second is called the recoil escapement, because the pendulum, finishing its swing after the tooth falls on the pallet, causes the tooth to recoil or move backward. (The recoil escapement requires a longer swing to its pendulum than the dead beat, because its locking and lift­ ing faces are not separate, but on the same plane.) The instant the pendulum finishes its swing the escape wheel finishes its recoil, and starting ahead, continues to give impulse, or energy, to the pendulum until the tooth drops from the impulse face. ANCHOR PIN ESCAPEMENT. A third often found in French clocks is the roller anchor escapement. ( Fig. 96.) The pallets are segments of pins, made of hard, well polished steel or agate, and are set with the curved surfaces opposite to one another. HOW TO ADJUST THE ESCAPEMENT. Instructions have been previously given for adjusting a recoil escapement, and the dead beat is adjusted in the same manner, only more care is required when setting it in beat. If too much metal has been removed from the escape wheel, in topping, and from the pallets in grind­ ing, allowing the tooth to fall on the impulse face ( X, Fig. 97), instead of locking ( at O) as it should, bring the 55 l escape wheel and the verge closer together, until the locks and drops are equal on both pallets, as shown in Fig. 94. However, do not move them too much, or there will be excessive lock and no drop, as in Fig. 98. The escapement in French clocks is adjusted by turning the eccentric bushing ( See Fig. 99) in the bridge of the pallet arbor, with a screw driver blade of a proper width, or the pallet frame is sometimes spread or closed a trifle to bring the pallets nearer together or further apart. To adjust a pin anchor escapement, make the teeth lock at the thickest part, or the center of the pallet, as shown by the arrows in Fig. 96. In case it is necessary to change the lock or drop, turn the pallet pins, if they are steel, with a smooth flat jaw plier; but if agate and fastened in with shellac, saw a slot in a copper or brass wire, somewhat thicker than the pallet, to allow the pal­ let to slip in easily. ( See Fig. 100.) ( R is the rod in which the slot is cut and P is the pallet.) Clean the pallet frame, then heat the rod slightly, place on the pal­ let and the heat will penetrate the agate, causing the shellac to melt, permitting the pallet to be easily turned. Turn the pallet, while the shellac is warm, to the desired position and allow it to cool. When cool, scrape off the unnecessary shellac with the flat end of a chisel-shaped brass wire, and thoroughly clean with a pegwood, sat­ urated in alcohol. To replace a steel pallet, drive the old one out of the pallet arm. If, after removing the pallet, the hole is found too large, close it up a trifle, broach to the proper size and insert a new pallet. New pallets, whether of steel or agate, must both be of the same length and thick­ ness as the old ones. ASSEMBLING A FRENCH CLOCK WITH VISIBLE ESCAPEMBNT. The parts have been repaired and cleaned. They are now ready to be assembled. Screw on the bridges to the inside of the plate containing the pillars, oil their pivot holes, and place the center wheel in position. Fol­ low with the barrels, the wheels of the time train, and the arbor of the hammer and locking lever. Allow the ham- 56 mer lever, which is a part of the hammer arbor, to rest on the banking pin that is fastened in the plate, and place the third wheel so that the hammer lever comes half way between two of the hammer lifting pins of this wheel. Next place the third wheel and the locking lever in posi­ tion, so that the locking pin rests in the center of the lock­ ing face ( H, Fig. 67) of the locking lever; and follow with the fan and fifth wheel, so placed that the warning pin is next to the pinion of the fan. Place the top plate in position, lightly work the pivots into their places, and fasten the plate to the pillars. Screw the threaded wire springs into the plate that hold the levers in position with the weaker one on the locking lever. When the train is assembled, place the lifting lever on its arbor, and pin it. Place the counting lever in posi­ tion with the pin that projects toward the plate, between the lifting and warning levers. Fasten the fourth wheel of the time train under its bridge, and follow with the cannon pinion, the minute wheel, and the hour hand wheel, in such a manner that the dots on their top surface come on a line between the center of the minute wheel and the center of the cannon pinion ( See 1, 2, 3, Fig. 66), and screw on the bridge of the minute wheel. Follow. with the rack, the ratchet wheels, the bridges, and ratchets. Place the gatherer friction tight on its arbor, so that it points toward the high point of the counting lever face, as in Fig. 66. See if it strikes properly on all hours, and if the ham­ mer, after striking and before the train locks, remains sta­ tionary. If lifted a trifle after the strike, remove the bridge that is fastened to the bottom plate and holds the pivot of the third wheel. Lift the wheel and move it either backward or forward, as required, so that when the train is locked the hammer lever does not reston a lifting pin of the third wheel. Wind one or two turns and try the striking again. If correct, oil the movement, on the dial side only. Pin the dial frame and dial, place the escapement in position and adjust the suspension spring. The slot (N) in the fork should be just wide enough to allow the pendulum rod to slip in easily. The suspension spring (B, Fig. 101) must fit friction tight in 57 its stud (X). If it does not, insert the screw driver (S) in the slot ( P) and apply a little pressure sideways ( this will close up the stud), or remove the suspension spring and bring the slot together by tapping lightly with a hammer. The spring must not be too tight, or too loose, in the slot and the pendulum, when hung, must not wob­ ble. When the suspension spring is properly adjusted, fasten the hammer on the hammer arbor, and oil the rest of the movement. Then screw into the case, with the six and twelve mark vertical. Take care to get the screws tight that hold the movement in the case. Screw on the bell and adjust the hammer so it will not touch the bell when at rest. Hang the pendulum, and the clock is ready to be set in beat and timed, according to instruc­ tions. If you wish to time the movement, before placing into the case, fasten it in a clock movement stand.

SETTING IN BEAT AND TIMING. Now that the clock is repaired, cleaned, assembled and oiled, it is ready for adjustment. The pendulum fork ( Fig. 102) is screwed on the arbor friction tight ( at M), and the arbor is fastened tight in the anchor frame. The clock must be set in beat by turning the pendulum fork on the arbor, instead of bending the verge wire, as in common clocks. If the bottom plate does not have a pin on each side of the fork to serve as a bank for the fork, tilting the clock sidewise may throw it out of beat. It is therefore well to inform the customer how to set it in beat on the place where it is to run. This is done by shifting the clock back and forth, without raising it. The pallets are thus caused to strike the rim of the escape wheel equally on both sides, bringing the clock in beat. The clock is then adjusted to time by moving the stud up or down with a screw which is operated from the dial by means of an arbor having a square on its end and a cog­ wheel that gears into another cog wheel at the top of this screw. Raising or lowering this stud alters the length of the pendulum and changes its point of suspension, and is used for small adjustments only. Turning the nut that holds the bob changes the center of gravity of the pen­ dulum and is for larger adjustments. 58 r------~7 Fig. 97 Fig. 96

No Lock Escapement Too Shallow

Roller Anchor Escapement

0:, 0.... Fig.99~ Pallet Bridge

:'ft. Fig. 100

Excessive Lock Escape­ ment Too Deep

Fig. 102 Fig. 101 x

Pendulum Fork

Tightening Suspension Fig. Spring

L

Pin Lever Escapement

Copyright 1914-1916 Fig. 75 Fig. 76 t -----N- t INCO"RRECT CENTERING.,M. Centering

Fig. 79 Side View Of Brass Taper Pivot Support

Bushing Drilled and Turned Fig. 77 Wheel Cut To "R. Receive Tooth Fig. 80 Fig. 84 I I I Bushing Ready For- Riveting

Straightening Wheel Tooth

Finishing Bushing With 87 A Straightening Escape Fig. 87 Correct Oil Cup Wheel Tooth T..., Fig. ii 82 Fig. 86

Finished Tooth

Side Shake For Pivot

Fig. 83

Front View Side View Fitting Tooth 86A Inserting Tooth in Barrel Shifting Pivot Hole

Copyright 1914-1915 -7

Finishing Escape Wheel

[(.) CD 0 ~ 00 00 ::E 0 0:: Ii, rn Discharging Pallet Too Narrow ~ Receiving Pallet Too Narrow m ::E ~ Fig. 92 T. Fig. 93 D ....ci Ii, s.

Grinding Pallet Fiber Polishing Disk

N

Recoil Anchor Escapement Dead Beat Anchor Escapement

Copyright 1914-1915