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00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page i NAGASAKI THE BRITISH EXPERIENCE, ‒ 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page ii The battleship Kirishima undergoes final touches at the Misubishi Nagasaki Shipyard in DLDG.The Scottish-built hammerhead crane looms behind it. (Author’s collection) 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page iii Nagasaki THE BRITISH EXPERIENCE, 1854–1945 Brian Burke-Gaffney Nagasaki Institute of Applied Science GLOBAL ORIENTAL 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page iv NAGASAKI THE BRITISH EXPERIENCE, DKHG–DLGH by Brian Burke-Gaffney First published ECCL by GLOBAL ORIENTAL LTD PO Box EDL Folkestone Kent CTEC EWP UK www.globaloriental.co.uk © Brian Burke-Gaffney ECCL ISBN LJK–D-LCIKJI–DF–H [Cloth] LJK–D–LCIKJI–EK–L [Paperback] All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A CIP catalogue entry for this book is available from the British Library Set in Bembo DD on DE point by Mark Heslington, Scarborough, NorthYorkshire Printed and bound in England by Antony Rowe Ltd., Chippenham,Wilts 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page v For my parents, John and Elizabeth 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page vi 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page vii Contents Plate section faces page 133 Preface ix List of plates xiii Map of Japan xvi Chapter D Historical Background Chapter DK The Turbulent First Decade Chapter HJ Obstacles to Coexistence Chapter JI Life,Work and Recreation Chapter KK Mitsubishi Connections Chapter DDE Japanese Wives in Fiction and Real Life vii 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page viii Contents Chapter DFI Golden Years Chapter DKJ Downhill to the Second WorldWar Chapter EED And in the End Chapter EGE Gone but not Forgotten Appendix: British Consuls and Acting Consuls in Nagasaki, 1647–1731 236 Notes 240 Bibliography 251 Index 261 This work was supported in part by a Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (NO. 18520638) from the Japanese Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology viii 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page ix Preface NAGASAKI IS ONE of Japan’s best-known cities. Its fame rests to a considerable extent on the atomic bombing of L August DLGH and the wealth of available information on the tragedy that unfolded in the city that dark day.Closer inspection of the library bookcase nevertheless reveals a number of excellent works on the ‘Christian Century’, when Nagasaki was a centre for the religion and a stomping ground for Portuguese, Spanish and Italian priests, traders and buccaneers.The same goes for the Edo Period, when the Dutch Factory on Dejima Island and the Chinese Quarter in the Ju zenji neighbourhood served as this country’s only windows on thē world and vice versa. However, the period in local history starting from the opening of Japan’s doors during the closing years of the Tokugawa regime and continuing until the flash of the atomic bomb – a period that may justifiably be called Nagasaki’s ‘British Century’ – has largely escaped the scrutiny of systematic research.This is particularly true with regard to the Nagasaki Foreign Settlement, which came into being in DKHL as a hub on the invisible path linking the outposts of the British Empire and, although officially abolished four decades later, ix 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page x Preface persisted as a social/architectural entity until being permanently shuttered by the hostilities of the Second WorldWar. One reason for the neglect is that many Japanese historians take exception to the ‘unequal treaties’, which were thrust upon Japan in the DKHCs and tend to overshadow more positive aspects of British-Japanese exchange during the Meiji Period as well as the role played by the foreign settlements in this country’s emergence as a world power. As a result the majority of writings on the history of the Nagasaki Foreign Settlement focus on economic and architectural topics rather than the life and work of the foreigners who lived there and established businesses in the city.Another reason is thatYokohama and Kobe, the treaty ports serving the metropolitan areas of Tokyo and Osaka, expanded rapidly after the Meiji Restoration of DKIK and left Nagasaki in the shade in terms of foreign population, trade volume and attention from both within Japan and abroad. Still another factor may be Nagasaki’s traditional complacency in its role as a receptacle for everything the world has to offer and, by extension, its utter lack of urgency in analysing and advertising itself.This attribute is alluded to by the observation that Hiroshima and Nagasaki responded differently to the atomic bombings, the former with ikari (anger) and the latter with inori (prayer). Despite the lack of attention paid to Nagasaki’s ‘British Century’, the city is scattered with relics of the period and, in fact, owes much of its present prosperity to the activities of British residents and the ties they made with Japanese counterparts.The former homes of the Glover, Ringer,Alt and Walker families are significant landmarks of the modern-day tourism industry.The DHC-tonne hammerhead crane designed and built in Scotland and installed at the Mitsubishi Nagasaki Shipyard exactly a century ago is still in operation today, along with innumerable reminders, tangible and intangible, of British- Japanese cooperation in shipbuilding, coal mining, railways, fisheries and other industries. The former British Consulate, Dejima Anglican Seminary, and Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank Nagasaki Branch Building remain as nationally designated heritage buildings and speak silently of an era when British residents brushed sleeves with their Japanese neighbours on Nagasaki streets. No one visiting Japan and hearing melodies like Auld Lang Syne, which as Hotaru no Hikari (‘By the Glow of the Fireflies’) is so deeply rooted in popular culture that few people x 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page xi Preface even think of it as foreign, could deny the affinity between the two island nations flanking the Eurasian continent like bookends, a relationship that sprouted and blossomed in Nagasaki. The present work attempts to illuminate Nagasaki’s ‘British Century’, to relate stories of the people who inhabited the period, and to paint a portrait of an important chapter in the history of Japan’s interaction with the outside world.The list of colleagues and friends who contributed to this undertaking is long and old. I am indebted to Lane Earns,Alexander McKay, Naito Hatsuo, Sugiyama Shinya, Ian Nish, Sir Hugh Cortazzi and other̄ authors of ground-breaking works on related subjects. I also thank the many descendants of former British residents of Nagasaki who kindly shared information and historical materials, not to mention the Japanese Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology for its generous grant. Special thanks go to Terry Bennett for opening the door and to Paul Norbury of Global Oriental for his unflagging patience and support. Nagasaki, hitherto little more than a remote fishing hamlet, took Portuguese Jesuit and surgeon Luis d’Almeida under its wing in DHIJ. Four and a half centuries and many foreign visitors and untold mountains and valleys later, it welcomed me in a similar manner. I hope that the present work will shed a ray of light on the history of this remarkable city and serve as a tribute to forebears forgotten in the march of time. Brian Burke-Gaffney Nagasaki, Japan On the cusp of the rainy season, ECCL xi 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page xii 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page xiii List of Plates Plate section faces page 133 D. Portuguese ship and Jesuit headquarters. From an early folding screen E. DKHI lithograph showing Dejima Island in the Edo Period F. Dining-room scene of the Dejima Dutch factory G. Nagasaki woodblock depicting a Chinese merchant with Japanese consort H. DKHG lithograph from The Illustated London News showing four British warships anchored outside Nagasaki harbour I. View of Nagasaki Harbour from the British warships J. Admiral Stirling’s party visit the Nagasaki Magistrate’s Office K. Page from Admiral Stirling’s ‘Convention’, DG October DKHG L. Seitetsusho (Iron Works) at Akunoura DC. Pierre Rossier’s panoramic photograph of Nagasaki DD. Map showing original topography of Oura district DE. Nagasaki Shipping List and Advertiser ¯ DF. William Alt, ca DKII DG. Alt family house DH. Main hall at former Daitokuji Temple xiii 00 Prelims:Nagasaki 17/8/09 13:30 Page xiv List of Plates DI. Oura Catholic Church DJ. Glover¯ house ca DKII DK. Thomas Blake Glover ca DKII DL. European community on Nezumijima (Rat Island) beach, DKIH EC. Oura bund and neighbourhood ca DKII ED. Map¯ showing area of Nagasaki Foreign Settlement EE. Kosuge Slip Dock EF. Maruyama entertainment quarter, ca DKIH EG. Oura creek from nearby hillside EH. O¯ ura creek looking from the waterfront towards the hills EI. Waterfront¯ street in Oura EJ. ‘Winning crew’ of May¯ DKII regatta EK. Boat house of the Nagasaki Racing and Athletic Committee EL. View from Higashiyamate hillside, with Dejima in the distance FC. Western-style buildings of Oura neighbourhood FD. Thomas Glover with IwasakiYanosuke¯ FE. Building berth at the Mitsubishi Nagasaki shipyard FF. Pierre Loti,Yves and Chrysanthème FG. Robert N.Walker and wife Sato, DKKK FH. Wilson and Charlotte Walker, DKKC FI.