SP2014.NET A COMPACT ARCHITECTURAL GUIDE TO METROPOLITAN

Written by Philippe Jorisch Photographs by Maíra Acayaba

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Quick Start - Ten Steps to São Paulo > Page 23 - Overview Map > Page 4 - Book Reviews > Page 22 - Niemeyer Buildings > Pages 6, 10, 21 - Coastal Escapes > Page 20

SP2014.NET P. 1 / 24 BEM-VINDO IN SP!

“It is exactly because of nesting in cozy corners, realizing accumulation of intelligences. on page four only the streets of this chaos that people stunning projects and enjoying There exists an attitude of con- the described bairros (city parts) develop an unbeatable an intensive lifestyle. It is a city fronting complexity with humor. are fully drawn, leaving blank competence. Here live full of inspiration and after some The irregularity of the city is em- spaces with connecting routes in those virtuosos of disorder.” time one can start to understand braced with a culture of constant between. As such, the overview Dietmar Kamper, German and appreciate its incredible improvisation and instant inven- map functions as an index for a sociologist, on São Paulo complexity. Talking to locals one tion. Brazilians employ their in- city with no clear hierarchy: The realizes they are proud to be Pau- herent qualities in a metropolis different bairros are presented in Metropolis listano and everything is going to where – compared to the rest of sequence as they lay on the map: São Paulo is the ninth largest get even better. the country – time and space are from top to bottom, North to mega city region of the world extremely compressed. South. The scale of 1:100’000 and the largest metropolis in the Guide is typical for regional maps and southern hemisphere. It has be- 2014 is a good year to look at Images allows precise measurement and come an increasingly interesting São Paulo. Compiled by a stran- If the only essence that can comparison despite the subjec- spot on the map of architects ger for strangers this guide offers be distilled form São Paulo is tiveness in the differences of de- and urban planners. ’s first help in gaining competence, chaos, it is understandable that tail. modern Architecture is world- drawing from the experience of São Paulo is a city with no eas- renowned and São Paulo has its several visits. It is an aggrega- ily decodable image. In an age Credits distinct version of it; the Escola tion of sights and anecdotes. of ubiquitous computing and This booklet results from a grant Paulista with Paulo Mendes da SP2014.NET is an open list in digital media, impressions are received by the Erich-Degen Rocha, over 80 years old and the sense that it is freely avail- to a certain extent substituted by Stiftung of the Architecture De- still working internationally. São able on the net, incomplete and the mobile phone photo which is partment of the ETH Zurich (D- Paulo is the economic and finan- that every visitor has to construct distributed through social media ARCH) permitting an extended cial center of Brazil and most of his own hierarchy inside the city. in real time. The accompany- visit to Brazil July through Au- its urban growth took place with SP2014.NET is ephemeral by ing images by Paulistan photog- gust 2012. My thanks go to a small amount of planning. The conception, it is a compact sour- rapher Maíra Acayaba use the Prof. Sascha Menz, dean of the resulting chaotic morphological cebook and can be printed any- language of snapshots for the D-ARCH 2011 to 2013, and tissue is currently being chal- where. documentation of spatial situ- his team. Many thanks to Nils lenged, especially with the in- ations. Rather than simplifying Havelka who pushed this project DISCLAIMER creasing global attention towards Culture clichés these images are specific from a simple brochure to a com- Despite efforts of the author, this an emerging nation. São Paulo is a metropolitan re- portraits on eye level of Paulistan prehensive piece. Maíra Acayaba guide is in not complete and may São Paulo means density with a gion with a population larger city spaces. contributed substantially to the not be accurate in all respects. consequential brutality of prob- than the entire Netherlands conceptional quality of the visual The author is in no way responsi- lems. This makes the city ugly Chile, Kasachstan or the State Map work. My warmest regards go to ble for actions that have been tak- and yet not. There are many fla- of Florida. São Paulo is a place The conventions of a street map the Paulistanos who are enthusi- en based on recommendations. vors within different bairros – the of differences. With a predomi- as an objective portrayal of geo- astic and welcoming every time Note that some areas of the city neighborhoods of the adventur- nant immigrant population from graphic facts do not correspond I return. can be dangerous and accurate ous concrete jungle. People that almost all parts of Brazil and the with a personal experience of official information has to be ob- call themselves Paulistanos are world, this metropolis is a unique a city. For the overview map Philippe Jorisch, May 2013 tained before visiting such an area.

SP2014.NET P. 2 / 24 CONVERSATIONS

lifetime. São Paulo always had tive characteristics. Favelas are 1950s to now has been designed money – contrary to the rest of settlements which usually grew by engineers through infrastruc- Brazil – and the current positive in empty and topographically ture – predominantly for auto- economic situation is unprec- high-risk areas with a lack of mobiles. While engineers just edented. The access to education basic infrastructure. But on the face the technical aspect, archi- and the internet makes people other hand favelas have shops, tects also consider the public conscious and enables mobiliza- restaurants, club houses and a result of infrastructure and the tion and organization. But the real estate market. Favelas are in possible urban spaces generated metropolis almost breaks down fact the only place in São Paulo from it. Brazil has already lost because of traffic. And this traf- with intense street life where so many opportunities to build LULA GOUVEIA fic is in part caused by exorbitant MARCELO REBELO most houses can only be reached LUíS POMPEO a great city when infrastructure Tip: Check out the countless small rents and empty buildings in the Tip: Walk around Centro during by foot – very like the model of Tip: at night has was designed. This mentality has public Praças with greenery, center. This is the current chal- daytime, it is a uniquely dense the city desired nowadays. These real street life, something that’s to change. The World cup is a found all over the city. lenge. city center. morphological qualities should rare in São Paulo. great opportunity to bring some be preserved as much as possible legacy to the city, but it might be Lula, tell us about your How will São Paulo look Marcelo, What’s despite land tenure, infrastruc- Luís, what are you work- lost. Today is a critical moment. work. ten years from now? your task? ture and security issues. ing on? I am one of the four partners of Maybe if things continue to im- At my work in the Housing De- I am one of nine partners of 23S, How will São Paulo look SuperLimao Studio, a small Brazil- prove, São Paulo will become an partment of the Municipality of What does this mean for an architecture studio founded in ten years from now? ian office that works in architec- even more fantastic place. What São Paulo (SEHAB) I am one of São Paulos future? 2006 after a very successful stu- My generation has traveled a lot ture and design. The partners makes me optimistic is that many the responsible architect of the I believe a lot of answers about dent project, while most of us and seen how a city could be. have different backgrounds in people like us are working hard Héliopolis area. Héliopolis is the how to build a successful neigh- still were in school. After studying Also, most of my contemporar- design, architecture, engineering to improve many small things, al- largest informal neighborhood in borhood can be found in the fave- and working in the Netherlands ies have been born and raised and tourism and this constella- though there are powerful forces the city, a favela with over 65’000 las. But the biggest challenge will for a year and getting my degree in São Paulo, unlike our parents tion is important for the kind of that do not care about the well- inhabitants. A few years ago the be related to mobility. Ten years from the FAU-USP, Brazilian that moved here for economical the projects we do. We’ve become being of city residents. Theoreti- SEHAB moved forward from from now we will have four new economy picked up and we have reasons. Because young citizens known for our unconventional cally there is enough money to the model of simply reproduc- subway lines in places currently a lot of work, both in the private are concerned about making this approach towards common or solve most of the problems, but ing standardized housing units scarcely connected to the city. and public sector. Our firm does city a more livable place, they recycled materials and our care- it is hard to face the mentality around the city towards a more Moving around will hopefully not have strong hierarchies and open bars, night clubs, art venues ful detailing. We installed a large of the decision-makers. Yet we complex favela-upgrading pro- become easier and people might at the moment we are designing and so on. Just recently there was workshop in the office to experi- can do our part: My wife and I gram, thus trying to produce a start to choose public transporta- some public housing, a school as the Festa Junina – a Portuguese ment with samples on a one to used to own a car each, now we real city in those informal areas. tion instead of an individual car well as a metro and bus station. tradition that remained in Brazil one scale, almost like artists. share a single one and use more and hour-long traffic jams. The construction of a residential – on the Minhocão, a large high- public transport. Ten years ago What is the biggest chal- villa – our first built project – is way bridge in the center. It was a How does São Paulo look this would hardly have been ac- lenge in transforming a about to be completed. great success! I want to see more 2014? cepted. It’s a slow process. favela into a part of the of that creative use of public Although São Paulo is messy, this formal city? How does São Paulo look space in the future. city is a better place to live today It is how to formalize and legalize today? than it has ever been during my the area without loosing its posi- The city of Sao Paulo, from the Recorded August 2012 in SP.

SP2014.NET P. 3 / 24 23°29' S to Campinas to Belo to Guarulhos Horizonte BEM-VINDO IN SP International 2 MAP & INDEX Airport & Rio CONVERSATIONS 3 23°30' S

Tietê 23°31'30" S BARRA FUNDA 5 Bus Terminal 23°32'16" S LUZ 6 23°31' S 23°32'32" S REPUBLICA 7

23°32'54" S CENTRO-SÉ 8 23°32' S 23°33'08" S HIGIENOPOLIS 9

23°33'14" S 10

23°33' S 23°33'18" S AUGUSTA 11

23°33'30" S LIBERDADE 12

23°34' S 23°33'42" S AV. PAULISTA 13

23°33'50" S UNIVERSITARIA 14

23°33'54" S 15 23°35'S

23°34'14" S 16

23°35'18" S IBIRAPUERA 17 23°36' S to Rio & the Coast 23°36'40" S MORUMBI 18

23°36'54" S PARAISOPOLIS 19 23°37' S COASTAL ESCAPES 20

INTERIOR ESCAPES 21 Congonhas Subjective map – incomplete! 23°38' S to Curitiba National to Santos Metrô (subway) RESOURCES 22-23 & the Coast Airport & the Coast CPTM (train)

1:100'000 0 1 km 5 km 10 km 23°39' S SP2014.NET P. 4 / 24 23°31’33”S BARRA FUNDA 23°31’30”S / 46°40’59”W 23°31’36”S / 46°39’47”W SESC POMPÉIA NIEMEYERS MEMORIAL This culture and sports center The Memorial da América Latina is in an ancient barrel factory is a center promoting the cultural, arguably the most famous piece political, social and economic in- of architect . In- tegration of Latin America. This augurated in 1976 it unalter- state institution was inaugurated ably serves the local population in 1989 with the engagement of as recreational space and is very the famous Brazilian anthropolo- well maintained. There’s a rich gist . The building cultural program including ex- complex was designed by Oscar hibitions, concerts and theatre. Niemeyer in his late phase and The canteen and café serves may not be everybody’s piece tasty menus, snacks and drinks. of cake. If there are no exhibi- Check online for events and get a tions or film screenings, sit in the visitors pass at the entry booth to library and read a socialist news- enter the gym halls. paper or access the internet for Rua Clélia, 93. Tu-Sa 9-22, Su free. 9-20. http://www.sescsp.org.br/ Av. Auro Soared de Moura View on Barra Funda from the gym tower of SESC Pompéiea pompeia/ Andrade, 664, close to Barra Funda Station. Tu-Su, 9-18. Originally a vast flooding area of the riverTietê , Barra Funda turned into an Industrial district in the late 19th 23°31’39”S / 46°40’42”W century, with access to the cargo railway and water. PALMEIRAS STADIUM Although a diverse middle-class district with many enter- The Arena Palestra Itália is the prises and cultural institutions today, its history as a oldest soccer stadium of São workers’ district located between the factories and elite Paulo and home to Sociedade Es- districts such as Higienópolis left traces. portiva Palmeiras, a football club Get there: The red Metrô Line and the CPTM Line 6 terminate at the Bar- closely associated with the Italian ra Funda Station which is also a major bus hub. From there take taxis. community, just like the district When: Daytime during weekdays is recommended. of Barra Funda itself. After com- From there: CPTM Line 6 runs to LUZ. Alternatively VILA MADALENA pletion of enlargement reforms and HIGIENOPOLIS are a short taxi ride away. (scheduled 2013) it isn’t a bad idea to catch a game there – for example a derby against one of the local rivals Corinthians, São Paulo FC or Santos. Rua Turiaçu, 1840.

SP2014.NET P. 5 / 24 23°32’16”S Sex, Crack, Squat The Area around Luz has LUZ not always been safe. The bairro Santa Efigênia just West of the station was given the name Boca do Lixo (Garbage Mouth) because of its many night clubs and sexual services establishments in the 1970s. In the 1990s drugs, violence and 23°32’03”S / 46°38’03”W organized crime flourished PINACOTECA in the area between Luz and Neighboring the main trainsta- the elevated roadway called tion Estação da Luz, the Pina- Minhocão and it quickly be- coteca do Estado do São Paulo is 23°32’03”S / 46°38’24”W came known as Cracolândia one of the most outstanding art SALA SÃO PAULO (Crack Land). Although rigid- museums of Brazil. Completed The Estação Júlio Prestes or Es- ly patrolled by police and less in 1905 by the important archi- tação São Paulo was inaugurated dangerous today, a new prob- tect Ramos de Azevedo (see p. in 1872 and served freight trains 23°32’16”S / 46°38’11”W lem started in the late 1990s: 7, 8, 13), it is also the oldest art for coffee export. After loosing its CENTRO PAULO SOUZA Empty buildings are squatted, museum in São Paulo. In the importance as a hub in the 1930s In 2004 an improvement plan usually by migrant workers 1990s a French garden was installed in called Nova Luz was launched by and their families who cannot completely reformed the mu- the freight hall, but in the 1970s Mile-high pop-art on stripped concrete towers just next to the city of São Paulo, trying to afford legal apartments close seum and stripped it of its plas- the building was abandoned. In the Luz trainstation and the Pinacoteca do Estado. attract companies from the tech- to the center. The squatters are tering down to the bare bricks. the 1990s, upon the initiative of nology sector. Large sums have well-organized despite poverty. Along with a reorganization of John Neschling, conductor of Historically situated between Centro, the elite district of been invested for new sidewalks, They distance themselves from interior circulation and opening the Symphonic Orchestra of São Campos Eliseos and the workers district Brás with the streets and infrastructure. A large criminality and are sometimes up three-story courtyards, da Paulo, the large space was trans- central market, the Luz trainstation completed in 1900 project currently in construction successful in gaining financial Rocha moved the entrance from formed into a one-of-a-kind con- has always been an important hub for travelers – with is the new Centro Paulo Souza aid from the government for traffic plagued Avenida Tiradentes cert hall with a flexibly adjustable adjacent infrastructures for coffee export to the port of by architects Taddei and Spa- relocation. One of the most towards Praça da Luz, improving acoustic ceiling. Today, parts of Santos. This bairro was a socially problematic area from doni which will house technical iconic venues is the Prestes its relationship towards the city. the building serve the number the 1970s to this day. Yet a great deal has been invest- schools among other public func- Maia 911 building that be- The Institution is today one of 8 train line (also called Linha ed to actively transform the neighborhood into a cultural tions. Facing the Sala São Paulo came internationally known the country’s most dynamic and Diamante) of CPTM. So while center of the city. a new large Cultural Complex through the window portrait showcases many international sipping a glass of champagne in Get there: It is within walking range from Centro. Metrô station: Luz. projected by Herzog & de Meu- series by Brazilian photog- exhibitions. The European- the lobby before a concert one When: To walk around weekdays only. Concerts in Sala São Paulo at ron should go into construction rapher Julio Bittencourt. His Style Café towards the park on can observe commuters rushing night are best visited by car or cab. 2013 – the existing bus station book can likely be found at the the ground floor can be visited to the platform just across a glass From there: CPTM Line 6 runs from Luz to BARRA FUNDA, else you’re and other buildings on site have Liveria Cultura (see p. 13). without a ticket and has clean wall. just a step away from REPUBLICA. already been torn down. Further Reading: See Entropy restrooms. Praça Julio Prestes. 16. Absolute- Centro Paulo Souza’s address is and Gentrification on p. 8; Praça da Luz, 2. Tu-Su 10.00- ly book ahead of time for tickets. not yet published but around Rua Book: City of Walls (see p.22). 17.30 www.salasaopaulo.art.br do Triunfo 45.

SP2014.NET P. 6 / 24 23°32’43”S / 46°38’35”W on the way to the IAB. Edifício 23°32’32”S of the the east-west inner city define São Paulo as an interna- EDIFICIO ITALIA Montreal is located at the End of connection highway. It carries tional metropolis. This is the highest outlook point Avenida Ipiranga, at the corner through-traffic and trucks thun- Praça Ramos de Azevedo, well- in São Paulo (the Mirante do Vale with Av. Casper Libero. REPUBLICA dering barely two meters in front visible from the Viaduto do Chá. buidling is taller but its base is of bedroom windows. Locals about forty meters lower). Take 23°32’38”S / 46°38’28”W gave this unpopular structure 23°32’39”S / 46°38’13”W the rapid elevator to the Terraço 23°32’38”S / 46°38’20”W the nickname Minhocão, mean- PRAÇA DAS ARTES Italia restaurant and bar on the 23°32’47”S / 46°38’32”W ing “Large Earthworm”. But at Accessible from the Parque An- 41st floor, best to be visited be- PAULISTAN GALLERIES night and on sundays traffic is hangabaú and just across from fore 5pm (free). Sip on a caipir- During the construction of the banned. Pedestrians and cyclists the ancient postal office, a gigan- inha at dawn and try to spot the great apartment buildings of claim it as a three kilometer long tic new cultural complex called edge of the metropolis. 1950s and 60s, distinctively Pau- urban terrace for sports and lei- Praça das Artes was very recently Avenida Ipiranga, 244, can’t be listan structures for shopping and sure: The improvised Brazilian inaugurated. This sculptural missed from Republica. offices were erected, too. Gale- version of the tidy High Line. concrete structure with almost rias are open-air malls or public Traffic runs Mo-Sa 6.30-21.30. 30’000 sqm houses the conserva- 23°32’48”S / 46°38’39”W interior streets through ground Related Info: Read AUGUSTA tory, music and dance schools as COPAN & CO floors of larger buildings. Edifício well as archives and exhibition ’s Edifício Copan Califorina by Niemeyer. Large V- 23°32’40”S / 46°38’44”W spaces. It is the largest project by – a thirty floor tall S-formed slab shaped pillars mark the entrance. IAB BOOKSTORE Brasil Arquitetura, an local firm with a gigantic brise-soleil facade Galeria do Rock has an impres- On a street corner close to the with a large portfolio. – could be considered the Bra- sive six storey interior space and Minhocão you’ll find the Build- Av. São Joao and Anhangabaú. zilian version of Le Corbusiers shops to find a leather jacket or ing of the Institute of Brazilian Unité. It is arguably São Paulo’s get a piercing. Espaço Metropole Architects (IAB) with a good 23°32’39”S / 46°38’24”W most famous building and un- is part of the Conjunto Metropoli- Motos are everywhere. A typical São Paulo pattern sidewalk in front selection of publications on the SESC CENTRO doubtedly a very popular one. tano, an International Style-like of Edifício Renata Sampaio Ferreira by Oswaldo Bratke. ground floor. One of the upper Soon one will be able to sunbathe The ground floor has an inclined office building by Gasperini and storeys holds the private atelier on a public rooftop designed by shopping street with a bakery, Cândia with a large open court- The coffee economy in the 1850s fuelled city devel- workspace of Paulo Mendes da Paulo Mendes da Rocha and good coffee and a por-kilo eat- yard devoted to shopping and opment north of the original “Triangular City” (see Rocha. MMBB at the SESC 24 de Maio. ery. Different apartment types small enterprises. It has a hip CENTRO-SE). Praça Republica was originally used for Rua Bento Freitas, 314. www. SESC (Serviço Social do Comércio) ranging from 30 sqm two-room cafe on the ground floor facing rodeos and bullfights and transformed into a european- livrariabks.com.br. is a non-profit institution acting units to 300 sqm luxury lofts are the overgrown Praça Dom José style public park with greenery in the late 1880s, at a throughout Brazil with the pur- accessed through an efficient sys- Gaspar close to Edificio Italia & time when the Viaduto do Chá facilitated access from 23°32’42”S / 46°38’18”W pose of promoting culture, sports tem of interior streets and semi- Copan. across the Anhangabaú valley. Today just as lively as TEATRO MUNICIPAL and a healthy life among workers public platforms. Make friends Galeria California: Rua Br. Ita- Centro-Sé, this bairro has countless interesting modern- This magnificent building is and their families. Throughout with one of the inhabitants as petininga, 255. Galeria do Rock: ist buildings with distinctive Paulistan typologies. Buy more than a century old and São Paulo there are a little over there are no public tours. Then, Rua 24 de Maio, 62. Espaço Hawaianas Sandals and Lunch by the Kilo here. houses cultural institutions such thirty centers, with SESC Pom- also admire the other splendid Metropole: Av. São Luis, 137. Get there: By Metrô with the Red or Yellow Line, Republica. Many as the symphonic orchestra and peia by Lina Bo Bardi being the Niemeyer apartment buildings buses pass here. the ballet group. The architect most prominent (see p. 5). This nearby: Edifício Eiffel and Edificio 23°32’46”S / 46°38’52”W When: Weekdays only, except for the Minhocão. Not considered safe Ramos de Azevedo also drew up new building close to the Galeria Montreal. MINHOCÃO at night. the central market hall (see p. 8) do Rock is aiming to revitalize the Copan is next to the Edificio The Elevado Presidente Costa e From there: Walk from Praça Roosevelt to Rua AUGUSTA or north to and most of the important build- center and scheduled to open in Italia. Edifício Eiffel is at the west- Silva is an urban freeway bridge LUZ. Also, HIGIENOPOLIS starts just West of the Minhocão. ings between the turn of the cen- 2013. erly corner of Praça Republica, erected in the late 1960s as part tury and the 1930s that helped to Rua 24 de Maio.

SP2014.NET P. 7 / 24 23°32’54”S CENTRO-SÉ 23°32’43”S / 46°38’06”W streets of the center and to the 23°32’55”S / 46°38’04”W EDIFICIO MARTINELLI Viaduto do Chá, bridging across EDIFICIO TRIANGULO Entropy and As an alternative to the famous the Anhangabaú park to Centro- A beautiful commercial and Gentrification white Torre Banespa, visit the top Republica. Among the important apartment building designed by While the number of inhabit- of the Martinelli. Completed in buildings facing the square are Niemeyer and opened in 1955 ants of the Metropolitan Area 1934, the beaux-arts structure the Othon Palace Hotel and the with a mosaique by the fa- has doubled, for the last twenty was at the time tallest building municipality in the Matarazzo mous brazilian painter Emiliano years the center has become of South America. Exceedingly building. And yes, the big white Di Cavalcanti at the entrance. less populated, many buildings high, few trusted the structure steel canopy in the middle was The original facade design had are empty, crime has risen. would stand. So Martinelli com- designed by da Rocha. brises similar to the Copan. There is a trend to break this missioned Architect Fillinger to Walk there from Sé. Crossroad of Rua José Bonifácio downward spiral, especially a design a replica italian villa, the and Quintino Bocaiuva, easy younger car-free generation Casa do Comendador (House of 23°32’30”S / 46°38’22”W to see on the way from Sé to discovers the Centro as an at- the Commander) on the rooftop MERCADO MUNICIPAL Patriarca. tractive venue for living and where he briefly moved in with Completed in 1932 by architect some bars are opening. Some his family to prove its stability. de Azevedo, the large and lively 23°32’34”S / 46°38’07”W claim it will be the place in a Rua São Bento, 405. Visits every central market halls are the best SÃO BENTO BRIDGE few years, as the many bars half hour (free) Mo-Fr 9.30-11.30 place to stop for lunch in one of Completed over a century ago, popping up indicate. Prices and 14.30-16.30. condomino@ the eateries on the upper floor. the protected art nouveau iron for apartments in the area are prediomartinelli.com.br. Located in lower part of the Layers of green on concrete: The Anhangabaú park is on top of a bridge Viaduto Santa Ifigênia (or rising, but not enough to moti- center. highway and the has a roof garden. just São Bento) is an impressive vate investors to refurbish their 23°30’10”S / 46°38’02”W Walk down the steep streets Bri- landmark connecting the two decaying real estate. Maybe PRAÇA DA SÉ cola and Porto Geral right next This is Ground Zero of São Paulo. On top of the trian- parts of the center across the An- the recently enforced law that This is the central square of the to Banespa tower to get there. gular city between the valleys of the rivers Anhangabaú hangabaú. The views in both di- heavily taxes empty property city with a Ground Zero Marker and Tamanduateí the first built structures of the city were rections are stunning, especially will have an effect soon, but for from 1934. Greatly reformed 23°32’50”S / 46°38’05”W erected there by Jesuits in 1554. Today – completely when one is aware of the historic now at night Centro is mostly and reorganized because of the CCBB covered in concrete – Centro is the place to appreciate sediments of civilizing interven- dead. Metrô in the 1970s it is today a The Centro Cultural Banco do the amazing topography and understand São Paulos tions: The park is a layer on top Further Reading: Arch+ Nr.190 square flanked by palm trees. Brasil organizes excellent art multi-level complexity within a bustling mix of business- of a highway which is a layer p.28 ff. Enter the new Cathedral Metro- exhibitions, dance, shows and men, street-vendors and shoppers. on a former river. Look for the politana (from the 1970s despite film screenings. If there’s noth- Get there: By Metrô with the Blue Line, get off at Praça da Sé. slender and elegant 1960s office its historical look) at its head. ing going on there, eat a pão de When: Weekdays only. Not considered safe at night. building called Mirante do Vale Metrô: Blue Line: Sé. queijo and drink a cafezinho in one From there: Cross Anhangabaú park to REPUBLICA or walk to (Overlooker of the Valley), São of the Brazilian street-bakeries LIBERDADE. Paulo’s tallest structure. 23°32’51”S / 46°38’11”W around the corner. Pedestrian bridge, flea market on PRAÇA DO PATRIARCA Rua Alvares Penteado, 112. saturdays. Use to get to Luz. The second most important Roughly between Martinelli, Sé square of the Sé district con- and Patriarca. Tu-Su 9-21. 11- nects to most of the important 3133-3651. [email protected].

SP2014.NET P. 8 / 24 23°33’08”S HIGIENOPOLIS 23°32’44”S / 46°39’12”W 23°32’40”S / 46°39’16”W 23°32’43”S / 46°39’32”W VILA PENTEADO EDIFICIO PRUDÊNCIA PARQUE BUENOS AIRES Intentional Delay The former city residence of This ten-story building by archi- This public park with extensive Although the Yellow Line Four the influential Penteado coffee tect Rino Levi was completed greenery covers an entire city Metrô has been completed dynasty was designed by Karl in 1950, just two years before block with notable residential 2012 with a four-year delay, Ekman in the early 1900s. Just the Louveira apartments and is buildings adjoining. It’s a nice not all stations are yet in op- across the street from the rival a strong statement for verticali- stop to breathe in deeply and eration. Malicious gossip has Mackenzie College, the Faculdade zation. The flexible floor plans observe the generic Higienópolis it that those stations are kept the Arquitetura e Urbanismo (FAU- of each unit aim to account for resident jogging, walking a dog empty to prevent the lower USP) used the villa until they comfort and individualization. or trying to find a parking space. class living nearby from us- moved into Artigas’ building in Make friends to gain entry. Avenida Angélica, 1500. Mo-Su, ing the line before the soccer 1969. Today this carefully re- Av. Higienópolis, 265, corner 6-19. world cup – somewhat like the stored villa houses postgraduate with Rua Martin Francisco. low Bridges by Robert Moses students and the research library. Private building, entrance with a in Central Park New York that Rua Maranhão, 88. Mo-Fr 8-17. resident only. prevented buses from enter- ing. An interesting fact is that the fully automated trains on the Yellow Line are of Ko- rean make, while most trains Edificio Louveira, an elegant residential building of the New York Subway are produced in Brazil. There The name reflects the intention of this finebairro found- has been much critique about ed in 1895. Planned for an aristocratic elite by German the operation of the Line by capitalists according to 19th century French urbanist a private company, while the ideals, Higienópolis is home to splendid modern apart- construction costs have to be ment buildings from the 1940s and later. Prestigious backed by the public. Although schools such as the Mackenzie College originate in this connecting further dots on the clean and civilized bairro. city map the Linha Amarela also Get there: Walk there from Centro, Consolação or Metrô station Santa discloses the delicate nature of Cecilia. Station Higienópolis of the Yellow Line is to open 2014. local politics. When: Daytime during weekdays. From there: Everything is quite close. But AUGUSTA is just across Rua da Consolação, and the Free Books Store (see p. 22) just in between.

SP2014.NET P. 9 / 24 23°33’14”S VILA MADALENA 23°33’09”S / 46°41’28”W 23°33’01”S / 46°41’23”W 23°33’20”S / 46°41’23”W 23°33’26”S / 46°41’13”W THE STREETS MERCEARIA SÃO PEDRO W305 HARMONIA 57 Vila Madalena is the neighbor- This former grocery shop is one Isay Weinfeld is a successful ar- The trend of “new ecological hood to freely walk around and of the most popular bars in the chitect in São Paulo, realizing consciousness” has hit São Paulo discover. In most parts the streets area today. There is also a self- many residences as well as com- too. Farm is a eco-clothing label follow the same grid as in Pin- service buffet between book- mercial buildings, such as the from Rio. The award-winning heiros, the adjacent bairro. The shelves. Lunch on Sunday is Livreria da Vila and the Hawai- “green” building by Brazilian- topography is remarkable and extremely popular and one can anas store in Jardins (see p. 16) or French office Triptyque is the São creates a slight San Francisco be sure to find architects, design- the Galeria Raquel Arnaud in Vila Paulo dependence of Farm. De- feel. Motorized traffic is mostly ers, artists and musicians there. Madalena to name a few. This spite the praise: Exterior techni- slow and attentive underlining The open air covered terrace is particular L-shaped building in cal installations of the vertical the relaxed quiet-town groove of on a street corner next to a small the heart of Vila Madalena fol- garden lost its intended glamour, the entire bairro. park. Other popular places have lows the geometry of the parcel and somehow the whole gig feels The bulk of shops, restaurants, names like Bar do Sacha, São Cris- and is split into an office block very 2007. But the cozy building bars and galleries are in the tovão or Rothko for burgers and with double height workrooms fits the site very well. Vis-a-vis area along the streets Rua microbrewery beer. As in any hip and a slender apartment slab a narrow one-way street called Aspiculta, Rua Coutinho and Rua hood the list is long and changes with a pre-cast concrete facade. (Batman alley) Fidalga. fast. Although architecturally suc- starts. It is a short and curved Rua Rodésia, 34, on the corner cessful the project has been criti- pathway, a kind of open-air mu- with Praça Valadão. Mo-Sa 10-1, Streets of Vila Madalena with a small town vibe. cized on an urban level about the seum with sophisticated graffiti Su 11-18. rupture in scale within existing on its sidewalls. This is the bohemian bairro par excellence with a fabric. But form follows money Rua Harmonia, 57. Mo-Sa 9-21, 23°33’13”S / 46°42’08”W bustling nightlife. Originally the area was a blue collar and there are far less interesting Su 12-18. PRAÇA POR DO SOL neighborhood. Around 1900 residents on the hills of examples being built, which will As the name suggests, this is the Vila Madalena lived in bungalows surrounded by veg- change the morphology of this place to see the sun set behind etable gardens and pastures. In the 1970s students from increasingly gentrified district. the skyline of the peripheral tow- the nearby Universidade de São Paulo began to migrate Galeria Raquel Arnaud: Rua ers and highways in the hazy air here for affordable housing along with artists, musicians Fidalga, 125. Mo-Fr 10-19, Sa of São Paulo. The park is situ- and hippies. Streetnames such as Harmonia (Harmony), 12-16. W305 is a private build- ated on a hill a bit further West Simpatia (Sympathy) or Girassol (Sunflower) testify to ing, entrance with a resident considered to be part of Alto do the lingering artistic happy vibe of the time. only. Rua Wizard, 305. Pinheiros. The inclined site at- Get there: With the Green Line Metrô or by taxi at night. tracts a generational mix of peo- When: Any day and time is fine, Monday and Tuesday night are the ple, street artists, musicians and most quiet. This upscale area of the city is considered safe. food vendors. From there: If you’re far away from the Metrô Terminal station that Jardim Everest at the Rua Des. runs towards AV. PAULISTA, take a cab to relatively nearby JARDINS Ferreira França Southeast, UNIVERSITARIA Southwest, PINHEIROS South or BARRA FUNDA up North.

SP2014.NET P. 10 / 24 23°33’18”S AUGUSTA

23°33’15”S / 46°39’22”W 23°33’25”S / 46°39’34”W Minhocão and Roosevelt NIGHTLIFE GALERIA LE VILLAGE The Praça Roosevelt is a cen- military reign and suppression. The large variety of venues On a stroll during daytime, plen- trally located square covering During a phase of city center along the Rua Augusta and its ty of shops - from antiquary to the east-west highway between decay in the 1990s, home- surroundings does sometimes washing saloon - are found in this Augusta and Consolação. In the less people and drug addicts impose quite a challenge for se- neighborhood. Most are archi- 1960s this region had a gold- populated the Pentágono and lecting the right place to shake tecturally uninteresting but a few en phase giving life to many skateboarders discovered the and find a friend for the night. of them are exciting discoveries. Real street nightlife on Rua Augusta in one bars, restaurants, theaters and sheltered smooth concrete sur- Known clubs have names like The two-story Galeria Le Village of the many popular Lanchonetes or Botecos. nightclubs that were mostly face. In 2010 construction for Club Outs or Caos. Some are for has a similar typology as coun- frequented by intellectuals and a large transformation project gays, lesbians and sympathizers terparts in the Centro (see p. 7). Rua Augusta and Rua da Consolação are through artists. With the completion of started, which was originally (GLS). Appearing at a club be- Rua Augusta, 1492. streets between the Centro and Avenida Paulista. Histori- the Minhocão in the early 1970s scheduled to be finished in fore midnight is not considered cally many services have accumulated along these traffic (see p.7) the green square was 2012. Adjacent buildings are cool. Instead stop at a hip bar like 23°33’11”S / 46°39’32”W corridors and since the 1960s Rua Augusta is known as replaced by a three-level con- currently undergoing a finan- Bar Volt or Z Carniceria or a local LAMP SHOPS a pleasure district and today this street and its surround- crete structure with shops, cial revaluation because of the lanchonette beforehand. Authentic Paulistano ingenuity: The lamp ings is one of the main hotspots of Paulistan Nightlife. parking and a public rooftop, expected improvement. Yet local snack bars have tiled walls shops along Rua Consolação com- Get there: Walk from Centro, Avenida Paulista or Higienópolis. the Pentágono. But the fast- there is doubt among an elder and bright fluorescent lighting. bine two practical things: Light- When: Daytime for shopping, nighttime to go out. built structure soon showed generation that the place will Botecos, as they are also called, ing and parking. Pick your new From there: Everything is quite close. HIGIENOPOLIS is just across damages and had to be partly ever be as glamorous as in the sell delicious, reasonably priced Chandelier from the seat of your Consolação. reformed, some storefronts 1960s again. and large sized cocktails – to go car! were never occupied and shop Further reading: Book: Stones in foamcups upon request. Around Rua Consolação, 2000, owners successively left. In the Against Diamonds by Lina Bo Most venues are between Rua 1 minute from Metrô station Pau- hearts of many citizens the in- Bardi describes some of the Augusta 400 and 800. lista towards Centro. Free Books sensible urban intervention of struggle in Brazilian architec- bookstore just nearby. Minhocão and Praça Roosevelt ture, urbanism and culture in is to this day associated with general during her lifetime.

SP2014.NET P. 11 / 24 23°33’30”S LIBERDADE

23°34’17”S / 46°38’24”W 23°33’18”S / 46°38’07”W 23°33’15”S / 46°38’07”W CCSP SUSHI BY THE KILO OTHAKE’S BANESPA Escola Carioca The most impressive modern The many Japanese immigrants, Of all Paulistan Architects Ruy and Escola Paulista architectural piece of Liberdade introduced their food culture Othake is considered the clos- Brazil has different strains stands somewhat outside the into this neighborhood, too. Be- est follower of the Escola Cari- of modern architecture. The bustling Japanese Town between sides street vendor shacks with oca and Oscar Niemeyers ideas. older and more famous school Rua Vergueiro and the highway grilled anything there’s a large Othake is an architect with Japa- is the Escola Carioca, with Os- Av. 23 de Maio. Following the amount of excellent restaurants nese roots and he also built the car Niemeyer being its most site’s topography, the Centro Cul- in this bairro. For visitors with Brazilian Embassy in Tokyo. prominent figure. Architects in tural São Paulo (CCSP) reveals its a tight budget, the low-key self- The Banespa Bank building is an Rio de Janeiro from the 1940s public function only upon en- service Itiriki is the place to go. early work of his and an inter- on further developed ideas tering the monumental interior Instead of trying oriental dishes esting mixture of Escola Paulista from Europe – also due to Le space. The CCSP was opened in à la carte enjoy the expansive and Escola Carioca. It is a sim- Corbusiers visit in 1936. They 1982 and stands for the cultural buffet: It includes a large variety ple cantilevering raw concrete searched for an adequate for- opening after the military reign. of delicious sushi and is an excel- The lantern imitating lamps let you know you’re in the volume displaying massive two- mal expression of modernity A stage, exhibitions, classrooms, lent option for a quick and taste- Japanese neighbourhood. story brise soleils. Their sculp- for the tropical conditions of a library and an excellent self- ful lunch among locals. tural quality is the aspect that Brazil – Architecture for an service restaurant are arranged Praça da Liberdade / Rua Gal- This popular neighborhood is listed in every tourist will dominate his later work. Un- ambitious young nation. Free, in a free floating open space in- vão Bueno, 159. Mo-Su 8-19. guide and indeed holds the largest Japanese community fortunately the building has been almost sculptural forms, large terconnected by ramps. outside of Japan. Architecturally it isn’t the most exciting recently painted and modified by structural openings and brise- Rua Vergueiro, 1000. Metrô Sta- place except for maybe the Busshinji and Quannin Tem- its current owner, the Santander soleils are some of the ele- tion Vergueiro. Mo-Fr 10-17. ples. If you’re in for the crazy mix between Japan and bank. ments that rose from that time. South America, highlights are the flea market alongRua Intersection of Rua Galvão The Escola Paulista on the oth- Galvão Bueno, and discount malls selling Asian plastic Bueno with Av. da Liberdade. er hand, with Vilanova Artigas toys, clothes and other bric-a-brac. as its father, searched for a spa- Get there: Metrô stop Liberdade of the Blue Line tial, structural and constructive When: Any weekday during daytime. expression for modernism as a From there: CENTRO-SÉ is just a walk away. social project. Further Reading: Books: Bra- zils Modern Architecture; Der Raum des Öffentlichen - Escola Paulista und Brutalismus in Brasilien.

SP2014.NET P. 12 / 24 23°33’32”S / 46°39’36”W out the delicious self-service res- 23°33’42”S by Paulo Mendes da Rocha and band. Being one of the last build- CONJUNTO NACIONAL taurant below ground floor with MMBB reorganized access to the ings of that time and a national The Conjunto Nacional opened in the original giraffe chairs (p. 16). offices and improved space and heritage site, the villa today 1956 is one of the first multifunc- Avenida Paulista 1578. Tu-Su 10- AV. PAULISTA light conditions for the existing serves as a poetry and arts center. tional modern buildings of São 18. Restaurant open on Monday. gallery, library, theatre and an The garden is an inner city oasis Paulo. The gigantic conglomer- exhibition space. Worth visiting. for a short break. ate was drawn up by the Brazil- 23°33’42”S / 46°39’25”W Avenida Paulista, 1313. Mo-Su, Avenida Paulista, 37. Guided ian architect David Liebeskind, TRIANON PARK ca. 11-19. visits Tu-Fr at 11.00 and 15.00, only 26 year of age at the time. Opened in 1892, a year after the Sa-Su at 11.30 and 16.00. A large shopping mall fills up a inauguration of the Avenida Pau- 23°33’18”S / 46°39’53”W horizontal base covering the en- lista, the Praque Siqueira Campos, GALERIA VERMELHO 23°34’13”S / 46°38’44”W tire plot. A gigantic vertical slab as the Trianon Park is officially This small but excellent gallery SESC placed on top contains various called, was originally designed just off the Western tip of Ave- A former office building is -cur apartment types ranging from by the French landscape archi- nida Paulista shows contempo- rently being transformed into a 40 sqm to 800 sqm. Walk up the tect Paul Villon. Located across raries. Next door young artists vertical SESC (for the meaning spiral ramp to the roof landscape from MASP, the parkscape origi- on grants live and work. The of SESC see p. 7) by a team of on top of the mall and discover nally comprised both sides of the 2003 project by Paulo Mendes architects form the office Königs- the city within the city. Inside, the Avenue, with a magnificent bel- da Rocha and Piratininga Ar- berger Vanucci and scheduled to large Livraria Cultura is the place vedere designed by de Azevedo, quitetos with an extra addition be completed in 2013. for Brazilian Art and Architec- where Bo Bardis building stands in 2007 works with the existing Avenida Paulista, 119, close to ture books. today. One understands the de- substance of small-scale houses Paraiso Metrô station. Avenida Paulista, 2073. Mo-Sa sign of the MASP only in rela- and connects them into an open 9.00-22.00, Su 12.00-22.00. tion to the park that has a pro- assemblage of diverse indoor tected view-cone towards Centro. This urban corridor is a concrete jungle with 800’000 daily commuters. and outdoor spaces. The gal- 23°33’41”S / 46°39’21”W The public park was redesigned lery’s restaurant called Sal serves MASP by in the When coffee trade was at its height in the late 19th great menus and is worth a stop TV towers and The building of the Museu de Arte 1960s, and within this dense veg- century, many of the millionaires moved into mansions for lunch or coffee. Also check billboards de São Paulo (MASP) is an iconic etation the last remaining bit of lined up on a hill just outside the old city center. The out the legendary, recently re- In 2007 city mayor Gilberto a red bridging structure spanning original Atlantic Forest of the re- 1891 building plan of engineer Joaquim Eugênio de opened Restaurant/Bar Riviera Kassab passed the Leia Cidade 74 meters. Lina Bo Bardi’s bru- gion is said to be found. Lima secured some distinct qualities of the Avenida Pau- on the corner of Consolação and Limpa (clean city law), prohib- talist architectural statement was Mo-Su 6-18. lista – even after its skyrocketing verticalization in the Paulista. iting all forms of external me- inaugurated 1968 and thrones 1950s and 60s. Along this grand avenue with towers of Rua Minas Gerais, 372. Tu-Fr dia and visual pollution such as on a platform just across the 23°33’48”S / 46°39’14”W powerful enterprises and institutions, one finds superb 10-19, Sa 11-17. billboards. The bare concrete Trianon park overlooking the Ta- FIESP shopping, rich culture and tasty eateries. walls of the city are completely manduateí valley (today the Nove The headquarters of the Feder- Get there: The Green Metrô Line runs along Avenida Paulista between 23°34’15”S / 46°38’43”W free from ads to this day. Only de Julho expressway). The interna- ação das Indústrias do Estado de São Consolação and Paraiso, where the Yellow and Blue Lines also stop. the countless bare steel struc- tional art collection is diverse and Paulo (FIESP) are housed in a When: Any weekday is fine, although weekends are quieter and If one wants to escape the hectic tures of large-scale billboards the growing Pirelli photography 1979 building by Brazilian archi- museums are closed on Monday. This very busy area of the city is pace, this mansion from a com- remain on rooftops. Together collection is a stunning document tect Rino Levi (see p. 9). It has a considered safe. pletely different time period is a with the television towers of contemporary Brazil. Unfor- truncated pyramid shape, which From there: North to AUGUSTA or South to JARDINS. East to LIBER- good suggestion: Completed in they form a catchy filigree sil- tunately the exhibition spaces are is intensified by a homogeneous DADE via Paraiso Metrô station or West with the Green Line to VILA 1935, the House of Roses was houette on the skyline of São not used in the open way Bo Bar- metal grill facade. The 1998 re- MADALENA. designed by Ramos de Azevedo Paulo. di intended in her design. Check furbishment of the ground floor for his daughter and her hus-

SP2014.NET P. 13 / 24 23°33’36”S / 46°43’48”W 23°33’50”S / 46°43’50”W 23°33’50”S 23°33’35”S / 46°43’19”W FAU CAMPUS GROUNDS MAC-USP Free and yet not The Faculdade de Arquitetura of The generous park surrounding The Museum of Contemporary Unlike other prestigious archi- the Universidade de São Paulo individual faculty buildings is UNIVERSITARIA art was inaugurated in 1963 tecture schools such as Mac- (FAU-USP) is perhaps the most the only large-scale publicly ac- thanks to the donation of the en- kenzie or Escola da Cidade that important manifesto of the Pau- cessible green space in the city tire private collection of Fancisco are privately run, the Univer- listan building culture of the besides Ibirapuera. It is intensively Matarazzo Sobrinho, a success- sidade de São Paulo is a state 20th century. Designed by Vil- used by students, also for sports ful industrialist who also founded university and all courses are lanova Artigas and completed and music. Stroll around, go for the Museum of Modern Art and free of charge for those who in 1969 it is a building in which a run or take a bike to prolong the International Biennale of pass its competitive entrance the ethical, aesthetical, technical the workout down to the Pinheiros São Paulo. The museum houses exams. But here lies the catch: and political vision of the archi- cycleway (see p. 15). a vast collection of 20th century A good basic education and tect materializes. The complex Praça do Relogio (close to Western art in Latin America additional preparatory courses static structure is a symbiosis of MAC) and Rua do Matão are with over 8000 works. The mu- in private schools are basically architecture and engineering, nice strolls. Sports venues can seum’s collection is displayed in a must to be able to pass ad- disciplines Artigas both studied. be seen on the way to Marginal three locations. The building on mission exams where about There is no barrier between Pinheiros. the campus grounds is less inter- one out of fourteen gets ac- interior and exterior. The free esting than the setting of the oth- cepted. In a country where flowing spaces organized around 23°33’42”S / 46°42’33”W er two venues near the Ibirapuera economic segregation starts the central hall are intercon- RESIDENCIA DA ROCHA park, so go there for the art not with education, the well-meant nected with ramps. This layout This is the residence Paulo the architecture. free higher education for eve- strengthens social exchange but Mendes da Rocha built for his Rua Praça do Relogio, 160, ryone rather subsidizes those also accounts for many delays family in 1966. The carefully between Praça da Retoria and families who could already af- as the unofficial term “walking detailed concrete structure rests The campus grounds of the Cidade Universitaria are the Praça do Relogio. Mo closed, ford to send their kids to elite the ramps” does imply. Besides on merely four pillars and the in- largest continuous parkscape of the entire metropolis. Tu&Th 10-20, other days 10-18. schools in the first place. design studios students today at- terior floors and room divisions Further Reading: Book: City of tend open air lectures, dance and are made of tropical wood. It is Established 1934, the Universidade de São Paulo (USP) Walls (see p. 22). music classes. The Friday even- Paulistan architecture at its best. is a public institution that brought together existing ing parties are legendary. Unfor- This eye candy is set within flow- humanistic and technical institutions, originally located tunately the buildings substance ering vegetation next to a park in different buildings in the center (see Higienópolis). In is in a deplorable state: Blue safe- and protected from the street by the 1960s the individual faculties were gradually trans- ty nets cover the coffered ceiling an overgrown ridge. ferred to a new university campus where they still are strewn with stalactites, in urgent Please be respectful, entrance today. The Cidade Universitária is a vast campus and a need of renovation. to private grounds should only bustling place during lecture periods. Rua do Lago, 876. Get off bus at happen with permission or invi- Get there: By Metrô with the Yellow Line to Butantã and then walk Avenida Gualberto. The building tation. Rua Engenheiro João de Avenida Vital Brazil, get off at Cidade Universitaria of the Line 7 Train has no doors, but is guarded Ulhoa Cintra, 14. Next to Casa along . Buses run from the Centro along Avenida 24/7. Check out the FAU book- do Bandeirante at the Praça Consolação and Rebouças to the USP. store next to the café. Monteiro Lobata. Across the river When: Weekdays during semesters are best from the CPTM Line 7 Station. From there: PINHEIROS is just across the river, a short bus or taxi ride. A taxi to IBIRABUERA costs about 30 R$.

SP2014.NET P. 14 / 24 23°34’00”S / 46°41’15”W 23°34’20”S / 46°42’02”W 23°33’54”S 23°34’14”S / 46°42’19”W 23°34’52”S / 46°40’00”W VELHA LOJA FORMA PINHEIROS CYCLEWAY GALERIA LEME HOTEL UNIQUE Completed in 1987 this furniture Running between the tracks of There is a big controversy about This hotel by architect Ruy store building doesn’t claim much CPTM Line 9 and a river which PINHEIROS this building housing a small Ohtake has the shape of a gi- attention, but at a second glance is actually also the city’s largest but fine art gallery. The original gantic wedge and is close to the the extra effort Paulo Mendes da gully, the Ciclovia do Rio Pinheiros 2004 gallery by Paulo Mendes . Top off the day Rocha put into the design of this is the longest cycleway of the city, da Rocha, less than two blocks with a drink at the Skye Bar on slick steel bridging structure can spanning just over 21 kilometers. away, was recently destroyed to the top floor and stay for dinner be grasped. Today a different If you can take the smell it is an give way to a shopping center. if money is not an issue. furnisher than “Forma” is using adventurous bike ride (for exam- The new, nearly identical build- Av. Brigadeiro Luiz Antonio, the building, displaying a slightly ple in combination with Cidade ing was constructed in a different 4700. unsexy selection of office chairs. Universitaria) along an infrastruc- context (now a corner parcel) fol- But it’s worth seeing the building ture corridor of a developing lowing the original plans and is 23°33’51”S / 46°42’04”W alone for its fancy fold-up stair- bairro. conceived as an annex to a larger PRAÇA VICTOR CIVITA case serving as main entrance. Get on the cycleway at specific complex. The architectural de- This eco-awareness center on a Avenida Cidade Jardim, 924. access points next to one of the bate around the relocation of former waste processing plant following stations: Jurubatuba, Galeria Leme includes questions with heavy soil contamination is 23°34’12”S / 46°41’05”W Vila Olímpia, Santo Amaro, of heritage and age, original and a public-private partnership pro- MUSEU DA CASA Cidade Universitária. copy as well as conservation ver- ject completed 2010. A wooden BRASILEIRA sus profit. deck designed by Adriana Lev- This yellow neoclassical villa Old site: Rua Agostinho Cantu, insky and Janna Julia Dietzsch built in 1945 was the former seat 88. New complex: Av. Valdemar connects different areas of the of the influential Prado family. Ferreira, 130. Mo-Fr 10-19, Sa parkscape with a discovery trail, Today it houses the “Museum View upon avenida Nações Unidas from the district: 10-17. a stage and a plant nursery. In- of the Brazilian House” that The Pinheiros River and Complexo Parque Cidade Jardim. side the former industry building displays interesting changing 23°33’38”S / 46°41’40”W there’s an informative exhibition design-related exhibitions and Pinheiros is by many considered to be the oldest district OHTAKE INSTITUTE on São Paulo’s problems with an impressive permanent furni- of São Paulo because of its strategic proximity to Rio The mother of architect Ruy growth and fluxes. ture collection ranging back to Grande, now known as the Pinheiros river. This area Othake is a famous abstract Rua Sumidouro, 580. Mo-Su the 17th century. The restaurant along Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima is today an impor- painter. Named after her, the In- 6.30-19.00. Quinta do Museu serves great light tant business district, comparable to Avenida Paulista. stituto is a build- lunches and is located in the old Neoliberal urban development after the military reign ing complex providing exhibi- mansions dining room adjoining produced a rather disconnected city tissue, yet not as tion and congress spaces, and the back patio with an expansive generic as one might expect. containing shops. The high-rise garden. If you enjoy an occa- Get there: The Yellow Line of the Metrô and Line 7 of CPTM serve the office glass tower is a well visible sional cigarette and a lemonade, Area quite well. Buses along Faria Lima. colorful landmark. National and this quiet garden is a great place When: Weekdays during daytime. international art exhibitions are for it. There usually is a small live From there: CIDADE UNIVERSITARIA or MORUMBI and shown here and depending on concert on Sundays at 11 AM. PARAISOPOLIS. the program the place can be Av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 2705. worth a visit. Tu-Su, 10-18. http://www.mcb. Rua dos Coropés, 88. Tu-Su org.br 11-20. www.institototomieohtake. org.br.

SP2014.NET P. 15 / 24 23°33’33”S / 46°40’22”W pieces on the exterior too, amidst 23°34’14”S swimming, casual soccer and a decisions. It is difficult not to OSCAR FREIRE one of the last gardens designed drink afterwards. It is considered notice the Hotel Renaissance just The area around by Roberto Burle Marx. one of the most prestigious and behind the Conjuto Nacional close has become one of the most Avenida Europa, 218. Tu-Su JARDINS noble clubs and its enclosed ven- to Avenida Paulista. It somewhat popular shopping districts of 10-19. ues take up an entire city block. formally resembles the Johnson São Paulo with edgy boutiques, The main building from the Wax company tower by Wright. galleries, eateries, beauty salons, 23°34’21”S / 46°40’54”W 1930s was designed by the pio- Othake built the same pink-black flagship stores and other shops. FURNITURE STORES neer of modern Brazilian archi- striped glass facade at the Centro Some locales are beautifully Along the Alameda Gabriel head- tecture, Gregori Warchavchik. Thomie Othake, too (see p. 15). built, too. The most notable is ing Southwest towards Pinheiros Paulo Mendes da Rochas first- The hotel is centrally located, the Isay Weinfeld’s Livaria da Vila on a whole bunch of upscale fur- ling is the gymnasium completed rooms and service are said to be a parallel street to Oscar Freire. niture stores line up. Two are in 1958, but it is almost unrecog- nice, so why not check into this Dark lacquered sideboards along particularly interesting for their nizable today due to heavy modi- postmodern marvel? walls, staircases and balustrades architecture, too. Micasa is an fications. Alameda Santos, 2233. www. are filled with art books and liter- accumulation of different small- Private club, entrance with a marriott.com/hotels ature - also in English language. scale buildings, some old and member or invitation only. A perfect place to roam around retrofitted, some freshly designed SP Chair Designs on a rainy day and enjoy coffee by young architects such as Tryp- 23°33’42”S / 46°39’55”W Some of the most interesting on the top floor. tique or Marcio Kogan. Further EDIFICIO GUAIMBÊ chairs were designed in São Livaria da Vila: Alameda Lorena, south, not far from the MUBE, Completed in 1962, this fifty year- Paulo. The famous classic 1731. Mo-Sa 10-22, Su 11-20. there’s the brand new FirmaCasa old structure is Paulo Mendes da is Paulo Mendes da Rochas store with a clever green facade Rochas first apartment building. Paulistano cantilever chair dat- 23°34’24”S / 46°40’36”W system where plants are hung Unlike other condominos it is in- ing from 1957. Lina Bo Bardis MUBE in polygonal aluminum vases. FirmaCasa, one of the many stores popping up in Jardim Europa credibly slender and the entrance Girafa chair is more like a The Museu Brasileiro da Escultura Inside this new building by Su- is not fenced with steel bars. Da wooden stool and a bit less (MUBE) is a private cultural perLimão Studio, art and avant- One of the most popular neighbourhoods for living and Rocha cleverly proportioned the known. Fernando and Hum- institution primarily display- garde furniture such as pieces working, Jardins was once just gardens, as the name roof of the entrance, creating a berto Campana are part of a ing sculpture and related three- from the is suggests. This city region comprises the kind of natural shadow barrier. younger generation and make dimensional art. The building displayed. more vertical part close to the Avenida Paulista and the The concrete brises on the main pieces that range between art of this museum was initiated in Micasa: Rua Estados Unidos, residential districts for the well-off called Jardim Europa facade further distinguish this el- and design. The Campana the late 1980s with great support 2109. Firmacasa: Al. Gabriel and Jardim America closer to Pinheiros. The convenient egant building. Brothers manufacture furni- of the surrounding neighbor- Monteiro da Silva, 1487. centrality and a kind of small town feel in some sections Private building, entrance with ture from ordinary materials. hood fearing the construction of make it a uniquely rich and diverse part of the city. a resident only. Rua Haddock With their very precise brico- a shopping mall on that parcel. 23°34’02”S / 46°40’08”W Get there: Walk down the hill from Avenida Paulista or use the yellow Lobo, 1447. lages they are internationally Paulo Mendes da Rocha won CLUBE ATLÉTICO Line to Oscar Freire (opens 2014). Plenty of buses run along Rua successful. The Favela chair for the invited competition and got The Club Athlético Paulistano is a Augusta. 23°33’28”S / 46°39’43”W example is made up of scraps to build one of his most famous sports club generally known just When: Any day is nice, but on Sunday most shops and on Monday HOTEL RENAISSANCE of wood, the Vermelha chair of works to this day. The interior ex- as the Paulistano. It is the place museums are closed. Ruy Othake is a well-known red ropes, woven in an impre- hibition spaces are mostly under- where the better-off meet for a From there: Walk Southeast to IBIAPUERA, Southwest to PINHEIROS Paulistan architect, most popular cise way. ground enabling the display of tennis match, basketball practice, or North back to AVENIDA PAULISTA. for his taste in colors and formal

SP2014.NET P. 16 / 24 23°35’18”S

23°35’14”S / 46°39’28”W MARQUISE PAVILLONS IBIRAPUERA PARK The gigantic roof with a length Niemeyer also designed the - The Pavilhão Lucas Nogeira Stroll around the wide walkways of more than 600 meters is buildings at each end of the Garcez also known as Palácio das and enjoy the variety of veg- something that exists in no other marquee. The not so small “pa- Expoisções or Oca (hut) given its etation, ride a bicycle around park of the world. The great villions” are named after their round shape has a fantastic in- the lake or sit down on a bench marquee designed by Oscar Nie- donors and contain different terior and changing exhibitions. and watch some of the downhill meyer connects different build- functions. 23°35’13”S / 46°39’19”W skaters practice sharp turns and ings on site and is a shady place - Pavilhão Ciccillo Matarazzo is - Vis-à-vis the Oca is the Auditório sliding tricks. Alternatively take on hot summer days or offers the largest structure and houses Ibirapuera, completed in 2005 it a brunch on a blanket on the shelter during rain showers. The changing events and exhibitions hosts shows and concerts of all large lawn between soccer play- smooth concrete surface of the on the upper floors, the most kinds. ing kids. floor is perfect and very popular prominent being the Biennale. 23°35’08”S / 46°39’24”W Afterwards grab a drink at the for skateboarding. There’s a res- From the parking lot at the west - On the Western Tip you’ll find Hotel Unique nearby (see p. 15) taurant and kiosk in the middle entrance you can enter one of the two storey Pavillons Manoel and the Museu de Arte Moderna the two dependences of the Mu- da Nobrega and Armado de Ar- (MAM) under the East tip of the seum of Mordern Art from the ruda Perreiro. Both are being marquee. University of São Paulo (MAC- reformed at the time of writing São Paulo Art Biennal Ibirapuera is free and open USP). and the Museu Afrobrasil is in one The Bienal de Arte de São Paulo Mo-Su 5.00-24.00, MAM Tu-Su 23°35’16”S / 46°39’16”W of them. was founded in 1951 is the 10.00-17.30 23°35’05”S / 46°39’35”W second oldest of its kind after Skaters at night under the great marquee. - Behind those two buildings one the Venetian, which serves as a finds what Niemeyer didn’t get to role-model. It takes place every The idea of a São Paulo public park similar to European design: The Planetarium and the two years in the largest build- or American counterparts existed since the 1920s. But it Japanese Pavilion close to the lake. ing on Ibirapuera park, the Pa- was State Governor Pedro Garcez who commissioned - On the other side of the Av. 23 vilhão Ciccilio Matarazzo. The Oscar Niemeyer and Roberto Burle Marx to realize a de Maio Expressway, you can ac- Italian-Brazilian Industrualist vast recreational space with cultural and public institu- cess the new, large dependence Francesco Matarazzo Sobrin- tions to be completed in 1954 for the 400th anniversary of the MAC-USP in a gigantic ho initiated the event with the of the city. Ibirapuera has large areas for sports, leisure Niemeyer Building. Just cross the aim of making contemporary and a convention center where the International Art pedestrian bridge from the Park- art known in Brazil and estab- Biennale takes place. ing lot. lishing São Paulo as an inter- Get there: There is still no Metrô station nearby, so a taxi is the easiest Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral, national art center. The 31st option. Plenty of buses pass by Avenida Brasil and 23 de Maio. 1301. edition in 2014 will be curated When: Any weekday is good, weekends are more packed. Most buildings are open Tu-Su by Scotsman Charles Esche, From there: JARDINS is barely within walking distance, else take a cab 10.00-17.30 director of the Van Abbe- to nearby PINHEIROS or the other parklike area museum, in Eindhoven, the CIDADE UNIVERSITARIA. Netherlands.

SP2014.NET P. 17 / 24 23°36’40”S MORUMBI 23°36’47”S / 46°42’42”W 23°34’53”S / 46°41’57”W 23°36’45”S / 46°41’57”W Rodizios and Helipontos CASA DE VIDRO JOQUEI CLUBE BROOKLYN NOVO To counteract the city’s con- The picture of Lina Bo Bardi The Hipódromo Cidade Jardim, This new business district reflects stant congestion caused by overlooking São Paulo from afar São Paulo’s horse racing and so- the current strength of the Bra- more than seven million daily while leaning on to the living cial club dates from 1875. Within zilian economy. Here, interna- vehicles the Rodízio (meaning room glass window is perhaps the complex there’s a sports cent- tional corporations, consulting Rotation) was introduced over one of the most iconic images of er, a spa, bars, social areas and a firms and television stations have ten years ago. Depending on Paulistan architecture. The sur- stage to socialize with the richest settled. The Ponte Octávio Frias de the last digit on the number roundings of this jewel of mod- inhabitants and visitors of the Oliveira, an elaborate engineer- plate, cars are restricted from ern architecture have changed: city. But even a regular bloke can ing work connecting Brooklyn driving at certain times within Formerly all alone on a hill it bet on his favorite horse. Novo to Morumbi, marks the a limit around the city center. is today enclosed by other resi- Av. Lineu de Paula Machado, spot. The bridge boosted real es- For example the final digits 1 dences. Trees on site have grown 1263. tate prices and neoliberal city de- and 2 are prohibited to drive to form a forest. The adminis- velopment. Existing informal set- between 7 and 10am and be- tration of the Instituto Bo Bardi tlements nearby were relocated tween 5 and 8pm on Mondays didn’t put much effort in open- and there is only one relocation to avoid a fine. But the law ing the house to the public on a project that is successful in ar- backfires as many Paulistan regular basis in the past, but it is chitectural terms: The conjunto families buy a third car with announced that this is about to Habitacional Cidade Jardim by a different number plate, the change. The site is located close Perhaps the most famous residential house in São Paulo: MMBB architects, located on carro de rodízio, usually a fuel- to Paraisópolis – maybe a combi- Lina Bo Bardis Glass House. the Pinheiros-Side of the River, inefficient used car. nation of the two makes sense. just northeast of the bridge. Yet For the richest businessmen in Rua General Almério de Moura, While the city center in the early 20th century repro- in general, there’s a complete South Americas largest city, 200. visitas@institutobobardi. duced ideals of public spaces from European and lack of efficient public transport, time means money. To escape com.br and +55 11 3744 9902. American cities, Morumbi was just grassland. From the pedestrian zones or bike lanes. ground traffic, São Paulo has 1960s on, in parallel to the degradation of the center, The most successful among the the largest private helicopter new elite districts and suburbs like Morumbi started many Businessmen fly in and out transportation network of the flourishing. Thebairro is located just across the Pinheiros to their elite residences outside world – larger than the one river and has an interesting undulating topography. Yet municipal boundaries in private in New York or Tokyo. Every it is a homogeneous residential district where economic helicopters. major highrise has its own heli- segregation is reinforced by walls, so it doesn’t feel ponto (landing platform). How- urban at all. ever, ones comfort is the others Get there: The Yellow Line is to terminate in Morumbi in 2014. harassment and some laws When: Weekdays during daytime. were passed to reduce flight intensity. Unhappy helicopter operators argue Paulistan resi- dents have lost their right to tranquility a long time ago and should get used to modernity.

SP2014.NET P. 18 / 24 23°36’54”S Upgrading the City 23°37’16”S / 46°43’40”W In regard to urban planning 23°36’54”S / 46°43’32”W GROTÃO in Brazil, a major change PARAISOPOLIS THE STREETS COMMUNITY CENTER of mind occurred in the last Paraisópolis was informally built While offering spectacular decade. While favelas were on rectangular parcels of land views, the extreme topography formerly seen as a problem that were not developed formally of Paraisópolis is also its biggest to be removed, the strong so- because of decentrality and ex- problem. Landslides regularly cial structures in these settle- treme steepness. The street grid buried entire houses that were ments and the ingenuity of its with a topography similar to erected in high-risk areas. An dwellers are actually part of Vila Madalena is today filled with interesting project combining the solution. Almost two bil- thousands of high density low infrastructure and topography is lion Reals a year are invested rise huts and buildings. Unlike in the process of being realized. by the Housing Department other favelas, Paraisópolis is eas- Urban Think Tank, an office in- of the Municipality of São ily accessible even with motor- ternationally known for its imple- Paulo (SEHAB) to improve ized traffic. Because of the large mentation of an aerial cableway living conditions and relocate number of inhabitants originat- in the San Agustin favela in Cara- dwellers away from precarious ing mostly from northern states, cas Venezuela, designed a Com- areas. With an ambitious long- one finds the most intense street munity center located at the bot- term plan the city aims to suc- life in all of São Paulo – a tropi- tom of the Grotão valley. Stacked cessfully connect and integrate cal village within the city. Loud volumes with functions like a all informal areas into the for- music rumbles all day, there are music school and sports facilities mal city tissue. This enormous all kinds of vendors, two major are directly connected to the dif- task calls international atten- The hills of a city within the city – in the process of formalization. supermarket-chains, three banks ferent levels of the surrounding tion of planners and architects. and several beauty-salons. village, leaving space below for A very successfully completed Few urban planners haven’t seen Tuca Viera’s iconic photo- securing inclined terrain & turn- favela upgrade was realized graph of stacked luxury apartment swimming pools overlook- ing it into a public park. in Cantinho do Céu. This set- ing the raw brick houses of a slum. Of all Paulistan favelas tlement on the southwest end Paraisópolis - translated “Paradise City” - definitely gets the of the metropolis occupies a most fame. Because of its proximity to the elite districts of former nature reserve along Morumbi and Brooklyn Novo the municipality invested large a protected lake that serves as amounts into Favela upgrading programs in Paraisópolis. To- a fresh water reservoir. Paired day it is a legal city district with a largely formalized market with the implementation of and home to 100’000 inhabitants. a sewer line, the São Paulo Get there: For this adventurous trip take a taxi to the northern End of based architecture office of Paraisópolis on the Rua Dr. Flávio Américo Maurano. Walk up the hills along Marcos Boldarini built attrac- main roads and ask for the União dos Moradores (Community Center) lo- tive public parks that positively cated in the center. There ask for a resident to accompany you for a fee. The redefine the relation of the in- Gold Metrô Line will stop nearby but isn’t due to complete anytime soon. habitants with the water. When: Weekdays during daytime. The area is safe if you stay with a local. Further Reading: Building From there: Sit down on a park bench at IBIRAPUERA to digest the impres- Brazil! sions. Or find Lina Bo Bardi’s Casa de Vidro nearby in MORUMBI.

SP2014.NET P. 19 / 24 COASTAL ESCAPES 23°54’S / 43°10’W 23°00’S / 46°15’W 22°26’S / 45°04’W 22°13’S / 44°42’W RIO GUARUJA UBATUBA PARATY Marlene Dietrich once said that This lovely peninsula just across Attention surfers: “Pegar um tubo Touristic guides on Brazil highly Rio is a beauty, yet only São the River from Santos is just a em Ubatuba” is not just a way praise this colonial town an hour Paulo is a city. Maybe that is not short one-hour ride outside the of saying, waves really break Northeast of Ubatuba - and right- quite true anymore today, Rio is metropolis and thus one of the nicely around this decent sized ly so. Although quite crowded by expansive but not a metropolis of most popular weekend escapes. town, Itamambuca being the most international visitors, the archi- the same dimension as São Paulo Many Paulistans have their holi- popular spot. The large variety tectural heritage is well main- and somewhat swayed by tour- day house or apartment here. of beaches make it a small para- tained and the countless beaches ism. There’s quite a rivalry be- More touristic and a little harder dise for swimming too and it’s on the nearby islands are beauti- tween the economic center and to reach is Ilhabela, a lovely is- worth taking a boat trip to ex- ful. The five to six hour bus ride the former capital of Brazil. Rio land two hours away. But for the plore them. For those only into barely make it a weekend escape. is definitely a must, yet alone for ones looking for more nature and snorkeling and sunbathing, more Stop there on the way to Rio, its many architectural jewels that seclusion Ilha Grande about five secluded Ilhabela is a good week- especially in combination with a could easily fill up another guide. hours away from São Paulo is the end escape option. few days in the wilderness of Ilha Copacabana beach on a Sunday is place to go. Buses to Ubatuba are operated Grande. the Brazilian urban public space Buses to Guarujá run from the by Litoranea and leave from the Buses to Paraty are operated par excellence. Jabaquara bus terminal. Tietê bus station. by Reunidas and leave from the Fly in and out the Santos Dumont Tietê bus station. Airport for the view. Alternatively Serra do mar: Pristine atlantic rainforest along the motor-highway. take a Bus (a comfortable seven hour ride, night buses available) The metropolis does tire a lot and Paulistanos love to from Rodoviario Tietê. leave the city for the weekend and feriados (individual holidays) or ferias (long holidays). During hot summer days between November and March, when the stuffy city air numbs the entire body one perfectly understands why the occasional escapes are essential. With the large amount of excellent nearby beaches surrounded by Atlantic rainforest, who can blame the Paulistans for their love of the coast?

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INTERIOR ESCAPES 15°47’S / 47°51’W 20°07’S / 44°13’W 22°17’S / 48°33’W 22°44’S / 45°36’W BRASILIA INHOTIM JAU CAMPOS DO JORDAO The new capital of a relatively About an hour outside of Belo The small city of Jaú is known Mainly known for its replica young country hasn’t lost any Horizonte, on the gentle hills of for its agriculture, production of Swiss Alps town, Campos do Jordão attraction since its inauguration Brumadinho, the former mining ladies’-slippers and for the archi- is a small city just two hours more than fifty years ago. The magnate Bernardo Paz convert- tects there is an impressive build- east of São Paulo with a signifi- plano piloto by Lucio Costa was ed a ranch into a botanical gar- ing by grand master Vilanova cant work of Paulo Mendes da a synthesis of modern city plan- den designed by Roberto Burle Artigas. The Jaú bus station is lo- Rocha. The Capela São Pedro is ning at the time, but today the Marx in the 1980s, to display his cated in plain center, topographi- an annex to the Palácio Boa Vista, metro region holds five times ever-growing collection of art cally mediating between the high the official winter residence of the projected population. One pieces amidst the greenery. Since and the low part of town. The the state governor. The chapel is should explore this automobile its opening to the public in 2006, building’s famous concrete col- poured in raw concrete and rests city by car and find a place to the Centro de Arte Contemporâ- umns, opening up like a flower to on just one single fat column that stay within the Superquadras in neo Inhotim grew to host nearly form a seamless connection with contains a staircase. The chosen one of the two wings of the air- thirty art pavilions with over 500 the roof, are an engineering mas- structure allows a seamless pano- plane-shaped masterplan. works by noted Brazilian and terpiece. The five-hour pilgrim- ramic view, which is reflected Airplanes to Brasilia leave almost international artists. The park age to this remote location and upon a water surface in the in- every hour from Guarulhos and attracts about a quarter-million back is feasible within a day, but terior of this unusual sanctuary. Congonhas, Buses from Tietê. visitors per year and Paz plans is rather worth it, if a longer trip Palácio do Governo, Avenida to expand Inhotim even further, Art, architecture and landscape design merge at Inhotim. to the interior is planned anyway. Doutor Adhemar de Barros, with fancy hotels, theaters and Buses to Jaú are operated by 3100, Alto da boa Vista. Buses lofts. Go there before the quiet Every metropolis has its hinterland. The wealth of São Reunidas and leave twice a day to Campos do Jordao are oper- and secluded feel of that unique Paulo depended on vast coffee plantations and large from Tietê. ated by Passaro Marron and place will be spoiled and catch mines. Crops and cattle continue to contribute to the leave from the Tietê bus terminal. Niemeyer’s early work around wealth of Brazilian economy to this day. Some Paulistan lake Pampulha in families own a fazenda, the Brazilian version of a ranch, on the way. and use it as weekend escape. With space being less Take a plane or bus to Belo Hori- contested than along the coast, the interior makes up the zonte. From B.H. Bus Terminal largest surface area of Brazil and is worth exploring. direct buses to the art park leave Start a longer voyage through the country with one of every morning. the following places.

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Besides the obvious mono- Aachen ArchPlus Verlag, 2008, DER RAUM DES ÖFFEN- urban development in Brazilian with original furniture and edgy graphs on famous Brazilian German, 120 pages. TLICHEN: DIE ESCOLA favelas and conducts a design stu- telephones and TV sets. Many Architecture & Related masters such as Niemeyer, This issue of the quality German PAULISTA UND DER BRU- dio at the ETH Zurich focusing of the buildings don’t exist any- Bookstores in SP Artigas, Reidy, Bo Bardi, magazine ArchPlus unites a his- TALISMUS IN BRASILIEN on the urban poor. Besides burst- more which makes the book an and da Rocha, as well torical overview, essays, and re- Margret Becker, Reimer, 2012, ing with information and crea- inestimable document of time. Livraria Cultura as lesser known masters ports on work in progress on São German, 279 pages. tive solutions, this book is also a Avenida Paulista, 2073. Inside such as Marcos Acayaba Paulo’s City Architecture and its Becker has been visiting and re- graphic treat. SÃO PAULO METROPOLE the Conjunto Nacional. or João Walter Toscano social conception. searching Brazilian architecture Regina Maria Prosperi Meyer, See p. 13 and the actual generation for ten years. Her nicely crafted WHEN BRAZIL WAS esUSP, 2007, Portuguese, 296 around forty called Cole- STONES AGAINST book discusses the relation be- MODERN: A GUIDE pages. Livraria da Vila tivo here some suggestions DIAMONDS tween social ideas and the build- TO ARCHITECTURE Meyer is professor of History Alameda Lorena, 1731. Near on how to stock up. Lina Bo Bardi, AA Press, London, ings of the Escola Paulista from 1928-1960 and Architecture at the Faculty Oscar Freire in Jardins, English, 132 pages. the beginnings to this day. Lauro Cavalcanti, Princeton of Architecture of the USP and see p. 16. BRAZILS MODERN This small booklet of the “Archi- Architectural Press, 2003, trans- this book is the culmination of ARCHITECTURE tecture Words” series edited by BRAZIL lated to English, 468 pages. her knowledge of the develop- Livraria da FAU Elisabetta Andreoli & Adrian Brett Steele contains a selection CONTEMPORARY This comprehensive book gives ment of the city from the eight- Rua do Lago, 876, Cidade Forty, Phaidon, 2007, English, of Lina Bo Bardis texts. Bo Bardi Paul Meurs, Frits Gierstberg, a fascinating tour of over 125 eenth century to this day. With Universitaria. Inside the Ar- 240 pages. arrived in Brazil as a stranger, as- Jaap Guldemond, NAi Publish- buildings and is one of the most hundreds of excellent graphics chitecture Faculty, see p.14. A good pick to start. This beau- similated and ultimately shaped ers, 2009, English and Dutch, complete surveys on Brazils and maps this is the standard vol- tiful and heavy Phaidon book Brazilian Architecture with her 318 pages. modern architectural legacy, in- ume to understand the metabo- IAB Bookstore overviews Brazilian Architecture ideas and buildings. This catalogue of the 2009 ex- cluding lesser-known architects lism of this bursting metropolis Rua Bento Freitas, 306. at large. hibition in Rotterdam examines truly worth discovering. in depth. Ground floor of Brazilian CITY OF WALLS: CRIME, current tendencies within mu- Architects Institue Bulding, BRAZIL: MODERN AR- SEGREGATION AND sical, artistic and architectural RESIDÊNCIAS EM DESENHANDO SÃO near Republica, see p. 7. CHITECTURES IN CITIZENSHIP IN production in Brazil. This well SÃO PAULO 1947-1975 PAULO – MAPAS E HISTORY SÃO PAULO illustrated volume accounts for Marlene Milan Acayaba, RG fac- LITERATURA 1877-1954 Livraria Free Book Richard J. Williams, Reaktion Teresa Pires do Rio Caldeira, Uni- the richness diversity of Brazil- simile, re-issue 2012, Portuguese, Maria Lúcia Perrone Passos & Rua da Consolação, 1924. Books, 2009, English, 288 versity of California Press, 2001, ian culture at large, although São 452+40 pages. Teresa Emídio, Editoria Senac Close to the Lamp Shops, pages. English, 473 pages. Paulo is heavily represented. For more than two decades this São Paulo, 2009, Portuguese, see p. 11. Williams does a good job in tell- This sophisticated book of so- encyclopedic book has been out 184 pages. ing the extended story of Brazil- ciologist Caldeira is well known BUILDING BRAZIL! THE of print – for good reasons. It is This is the standard volume for ian Architecture with some links and points out the precarious PROACTIVE URBAN RE- the most complete and accurate an overview of almost every city to current debates. The paper- interdependences of urban de- NEWAL OF INFORMAL documentation of residential plan ever made and drawn. Fan- back fits in the hand luggage. velopment, security and political SETTLEMENTS buildings of the Escola Paulista. tastic large format detailed color governance. Tough but illumi- Marc Angélil, Rainer Hehl & Every house is represented with maps from different times! ARCH+ NR. 190: nating material. Something Fantastic, Ruby Press, clean 1:200 plans and sections STADTARCHITEKTUR 2012, English, 464 pages. as well as black and white pho- SÃO PAULO Hehl researched the history of tographs from back in the days

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TRAVEL INFO TRAVEL LITERATURE TEN STEPS TO SP familiar with the city structure by mysterious reason. Carry two to a native speaker on a regular studying a map in advance really wallets: One with larger bills and basis is more efficient. Being an economic center, any São Paulo Map It isn’t that hard to hit the helps making sense out of this cards, one with change. time of the year is fine. The city The map edited by international streets. Really. But before maze and thus appreciate the 9. Into the City tends to be rather calm during travel maps is a good start. In ad- you head out follow this metropolis more quickly. 7. Phone and Data Guarulhos airport is located out- vacations. Spring and fall are dition organize a data roaming checklist: Before leaving, check with your side the city. For up to two people nice, summer very hot and hu- plan and an iPad if possible. 5. Culture & Escapes phone provider what the roam- take the Airport Bus Service for mid. Winter can get cold and 1. Get there As soon as flight dates are set, ing charges are, especially for 35 R$ going to different parts most houses are not heated. Wallpaper São Paulo Being a major economic center, check online for cultural events data. Some offer unlimited data of the city every hour or so. For The colorful small booklets by São Paulo is well connected to and concerts within and close for a daily fee, ideal for a tabloid three or more persons share an São Paulo is not the most dan- Wallpaper & Phaidon exist for most international airports of to the city. Some venues such as with GPS. Buying data packages official airport taxi, the only cabs gerous South American city, but many cities. The São Paulo guide the world. It won’t be a problem the Sala São Paulo are extremely in Brazil as a foreigner won’t allowed there. Note that there unfortunately anything from be- has a grayish-pink cover and to find a flight. Like everywhere popular, so tickets will need to work, but there’s plenty of Wi-Fi are two airports: Congonhas is ing considered safe everywhere. contains the most useful tips on its usually cheaper to book in be bought in advance with the spots in cafés. For a stay of more closer to the center and serves Avoid walking alone and at what to do. advance. Flight search engines help of a local. If you plan to than three days it’s worth buying national flights only. night, especially in isolated areas. aggregate price results from dif- escape to the rest of the coun- a local phone number. there are On the plus side it isn’t a touristy Brazil Lonely Planet ferent websites. During certain try, buy plane tickets in advance, several prepaid providers. Buy 10. And Around place like Rio, petty theft is less LP is seldom a bad choice when times of the year flights to Rio price differences are large and the SIM card (chip) at lottery Although public transportation common. Talk to as many locals it comes to guides. But other are cheaper. often cheaper than the bus. Buy stands and recharge credit at ki- isn’t the most efficient, there are as possible. They are heartily and guides tailored more specifically through a travel agency or with osks or pharmacies. several ways of getting around: helpful but sometimes give con- to São Paulo will do, too. 2. Documents help of a local, because websites The Metrô, buses and the tradictory directions – but what You’ll need a passport. US citi- do not accept credit cards with- 8. Language CPTM local train lines. A “Bilete do you expect in a city as large as Culture Map zens need a visa, EU citizens do out a CPF Number (Brazilian The younger generation will Unico” card will work for all of a country? Pick up or download the Mapa not for a stay up to three months. Permit of Residence). speak rough English, but most the above. It needs to be charged das Artes at www.mapadasartes. Brazilians do not understand in advance, 20 R$ is good for a USEFUL WEBSITES com.br for a relatively complete 3. Bed 6. Money or speak it. It is worth investing start. The subway is by far the directory of galleries, museums Guides and websites will recom- While South America is known time in learning Portuguese if fastest and cleanest option. One www.unlike.net/sao-paulo and other venues. It is found mend different hotels and pou- to be rather a budget destina- you stay in Brazil for more than Metrô ride costs 3 R$. The bus www.buscaonibus.com.br in most museums and really sadas across the city. But couch- tion Brazil and especially São a month. Brazilian Portuguese is is cheaper, but less regular and www.decolar.com.br helpful. surfing and Air-BnB is big there, Paulo isn’t. This is the price of not the most difficult language, tricky to get on and off. Taxis are www.prefeitura.sp.gov.br too. São Paulo is more fun when economic success, so don’t be but the pronunciation is tricky. always a safe option – make sure www.mapadasartes.com.br having someone to introduce surprised to pay almost the same Give it three to four months of they have a licence. Walking dur- www.arcoweb.com.br and guide you to some extent. as at home for certain commodi- one hour a day practice before ing daytime is a treat for the curi- www.vitruvius.com.br ties. Within the city almost every going to Brazil – if you want to ous explorer. Enjoy! www.archdaily.com.br 4. Read food shack accepts credit cards be able to lead a basic conversa- guia.folha.com.br Invest a few days to browse nowadays. But you’ll still need tion with a basic vocabulary of vejasp.abril.com.br through guides, books, websites, cash, lots of small bills, because about 1000-2000 words. Listen- www.teatroficina.com.br blogs or even iPad apps. Getting nobody ever has change for some ing to podcasts helps, but talking

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PHILIPPE JORISCH MAIRA ACAYABA NILS HAVELKA Architect, Zurich, Photographer, São Paulo, Architect & Publisher, Zurich, Switzerland. Brazil. Switzerland. [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Born 1985, studied architecture Born 1980, lives and works in Born in Zurich in 1982 to a and Urban Design at the Tech- São Paulo. Her work focuses Swedish mother and Czech fa- nical Universities of Delft and on architectural photography, ther, Nils is an architect currently Zurich and graduated from the cities and landscapes and can teaching at ETH Zurich. His ETH in 2012. He has worked be tracked in various national work has been exhibited at the as trainee at EM2N and Boesch and international publications Museum für Gestaltung in Zu- Architects in Zurich and was and through the website www. rich, the Holcim Forum Shang- involved in urban design work- mairaacayaba.com. Her profile hai, the ZKM Karlsruhe, the shops in São Paulo. During stud- is published in PROJETO De- Van Alen Institute in New York ies he has worked as teaching as- sign 400 which highlights the and the Architecture Biennale sistant at the Chair of First Year work of photographers from in Venice. He is an occasional architectural Design of Prof. Dr. Brazilian architecture and im- writer for Song of the Week and Marc Angélil and was editor of portant architectural sites such as owner of Elektrokontor Agency COPYRIGHT © 2013 trans magazine. After travels as Arch Daily Brazil and Plata- together with Fabian Bircher. © Publication: Havelka Verlag, to Brazil with a grant from the forma Arquitetura. Her pho- He recently founded the pub- Susenbergstrasse 54, 8044 Erich Degen-Stiftung he started tographs have been exhibited lishing house Havelka Verlag Zürich, Switzerland. his own practice, J.A., in 2012. at the Architecture Biennale in documenting critical projects of © Text: Philippe Jorisch, He is fluent in English, German, Brazil and as part of the Col- observation and construction. Zurich. French, Dutch and Portuguese. lective Rolê, photographing Sao Nils is an initiator of the artist © Images: Maíra Acayaba, www.jorisch.com Paulo at night, she attended exhi- collective and project space “Die São Paulo. bitions in Sao Paulo, Rotterdam Weinhalde” in Zurich. No part of this publication may and Berlin. www.havelkaverlag.com be used without citation. www.mairaacayaba.com www.dieweinhalde.ch Version: 10.Oct.2013 / EN-WEB.

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