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14. Safety Bikes & Box Cameras

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14. Safety Bikes & Box Cameras URE FEAT 3 Safety bikes & box cameras 1 2 PHOTOS SACHTLEBEN IMAGES COURTESY OF UCLA SAFETY BIKES & BOX CAMERas In the 1890s, William Sachtleben and Thomas Allen cycled the globe. Around 400 of their photos recently came to light. Historian David V Herlihy tells the story he possibility of a international celebrity. they decided to prepare for a ‘round global tour on two But along came the new-fangled the world’ journey. wheels was initially safety bicycle, its rear wheel powered the stuff of fantasy. by a chain and sprocket. The novel BIKES, CAMERA, ACTION In 1869, the pioneer vehicle quickly challenged the grand Allen and Sachtleben promptly joined cycling journal, Le old Ordinary for road supremacy, the Cyclists’ Touring Club, then a mere T Vélocipède Illustré of Paris, carried promising to bring the joys of cycling 12 years old. The popular London- a series of articles about Jonathan to the general population. It was based organisation lobbied for better Schopp, an American riding around perhaps inevitable that someone roads and signage, and also published the world on a bicycle. He was should try to top Stevens’ feat astride cycling maps and guides. The lads fictitious, of course, for the crude what some were already correctly shared its ideals. ‘Travelling always wheels of that time, later dubbed calling ‘the bicycle of the future’. by first class,’ Sachtleben observed, bone shakers, were hardly capable of That distinction would fall to ‘is like staying in your own country. such an epic journey. two young Americans, William There is such a thing as too much A generation later, during the era of Sachtleben and Thomas Allen, Jr. In convenience. For our part, we have the fleet but precarious high-wheeler, July 1890, shortly after graduating long since tired of trains and artificial, life imitated art. In the spring of 1884, from Washington University in St modern hotels. We love to roam on British-born Thomas Stevens left San Louis, they sailed to Liverpool where our bicycles, unfettered, among the The National Museum of American History Francisco atop a Columbia bicycle they acquired two hard-tyred Singer scenes of unsophisticated nature and with a 50-inch diameter front wheel. safety bicycles. After tooling around the common people.’ Three years and almost 14,000 miles the British Isles, they became so The cyclists appealed to the Camera photo: later, he returned to the same city an enamoured of bicycle touring that American minister to Great Britain, 48 CYCLE DECEMBER/JANUARY 2013-14 Safety bikes & box cameras more compact decided to end their correspondence. than conventional They also determined that their cameras, making Minnehahas were too fragile for the them ideal for journey ahead. Allen thus made a 4 cycle touring. return trip London where he acquired Moreover, there two sturdy forty-pound Humber was virtually no bicycles, bringing them back to set up involved. Athens. (Both still survive: Allen’s As the early Kodak is owned by the London Science ads proclaimed, ‘You Museum and Sachtleben’s by the Los push the button, we Angeles Museum of Natural History.) do the rest.’ So as not to be recognised aboard Three years later, the train, a potential embarrassment after having covered some for a round the world cyclist, 18,000 miles on the ground, Allen donned a disguise that a third of that total in Asia, Allen included spectacles, top hat, and and Sachtleben would secure their cane, all borrowed from the elder own place in history. One American Kapsembelis. Allen’s concern was journalist proclaimed them ‘the not entirely contrived. Gödrich, greatest travellers since Marco Polo’, the German cyclist, had taken a and their remarkable performance strong dislike to the Americans and helped to spark the great bicycle was regularly bashing them in the boom of the mid 1890s. German cycling press, denouncing Here, then, is a sketch of them as frauds who rarely cycled. their adventures during the year 1891. INTO THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE RELAXING IN GREECE Disregarding widespread advice to After traversing Europe in the avoid turbulent Turkey, the lads sailed autumn of 1890, the cyclists settled in to Constantinople in March 1891. Athens to wait out the winter. Thanks They moved in with an Armenian to Sachtleben’s salvaged diary, we doctor and his family and spent know that they enjoyed a rich social several weeks there while they life. The cast of intriguing characters honed their travel plans and roamed they befriended included Serope about the city, taking numerous Gürdjian, an Armenian revolutionary photographs. 5 who had just been expelled from At last, in April, the doctor’s Constantinople; the Kapsembelis twelve-year-old son led them to the brothers, the wealthy sons of a local Bosporus, where they boarded a small textile manufacturer; and Anton boat with their all their gear. Once on Robert Todd Lincoln, the eldest von Gödrich, formerly an officer in the Asian side, their adventures began son of the slain president, to help In the photos the German Army whose favourite in earnest. Here they faced entirely 1 Surveying the them secure foreign passports. He volcanic terrain pastime was to ride his beloved high- foreign languages, cultures, and diets, reluctantly obliged. And although 2 Original kodak wheeler. with little or no recourse to railroads. camera they were wealthy enough to tour 3 One of the The cyclists met fellow Americans At times, rocks were thrown at without sponsorship, they accepted cyclists flanked as well, including Archibald Loudon them and aggressive dogs snapped by armed two new Minnehaha bicycles guards on Snowden, the American minister at their heels. When they pulled into horseback with cushion tyres from a London 4 Riding in the to Greece, whose son coveted a towns to settle into a grimy manufacturer. They also arranged to Acropolis bicycle, and James Irving Manatt, 5 A mogul’s send progress reports to the London- mosque the American consul, whose comely based Penny Illustrated Paper. 6 Hired guards daughter Winnie became Sachtleben’s helping to ford To illustrate their accounts (the the bicycles love interest. 6 press was just beginning to publish and gear across The three-month lull in Athens a stream photographs), the lads purchased also gave the Americans ample two novel Kodak cameras. Because time to wander through the they used film rather than glass plates, city and capture spontaneous they were considerably lighter and scenes of everyday life. Their cameras and bicycles invariably drew “AlleN AND sachtlebeN huge crowds of curious onlookers. joiNed the cyclists’ In their spare time, touriNG club, theN A they plotted their ride across Asia. Displeased mere 12 years old” with the editor of PIP, they CTC.ORG.UK CYCLE 49 Safety bikes & box cameras inn, the locals invariably In the photos surrounded them and demanded 7 Sachtleben a cycling demonstration. The cycles over the Gallatin Bridge authorities frequently compelled linking Pera them to hire armed guards on and Stamboul 8 One of 7 horseback to escort them safely to the Humber bicycles, with their next destination. Hagia Sophia Riding over gentle hills, the cyclists looming in the background emerged on the Angora Plateau 9 Sachtleben where nomadic tribesmen tended to strolls with an officer on the the famous sheep, as they had done grounds of for centuries. After visiting Angora the Russian Cathedral in (now the capital city of Ankara), they Tashkent witnessed the start of Ramadan, the traditional period of fasting. They lingered for three months in Sivas, while Allen recovered from typhoid fever. At one point, a mule kicked out the spokes of Sachtleben’s rear wheel, forcing him to hunt down a blacksmith. Near Kara-Hissar, they again while Sachtleben had to carry their bicycles and gear recovered from cholera. across a furious mountain stream. ‘They are plucky fellows and are thoroughly American,’ their host, averaged 75 miles a day, nearly double CROSSING PERSIA the missionary William Whipple their usual output. Reaching Tabriz in August, they were reported to an American newspaper. forced to suspend their ride once ‘We have had them as our guests for THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE three weeks, and have enjoyed talking In early November, they finally to them concerning their route reached the Russian border and blew 8 from Liverpool [to] here… It seems past the bewildered officials. The marvellous how they can travel bright city of Askabad, in present through Turkey and Persia without day Turkmenistan, offered the weary the languages or guides. They have wheelmen a welcome dose of modern had to ford rivers, carrying their civilisation. wheels, and climbing high mountain The governor held a dinner in passes, etc., and live native-like in their honour, but he insisted that every place they stop.’ they take the newly inaugurated In Persia, too, they had to cope trans-Caspian railway for the next with throngs of curious citizens, six hundred miles, to avoid crossing rudimentary inns, and unwanted a desert. Feeling pinched for time and escorts on horseback, not to mention in no mood for further suffering, the extreme climatic conditions. In cyclists complied. Tehran, the temperature soared After a stop in Bukhara, they to 120 degrees. They were again reached Samarkand, an exotic compelled to stop while they waited Oriental city filled with blue domes, for Russian passports. minarets, and the ruins of ancient Finally, the Russian consulate persuaded them to continue east across a desert to the holy city of 9 Meshed, where, he assured them, his colleague would fulfil their request. Armed at last with the necessary documents, the wheelmen took the military highway heading northwest to “A mule kicked out the the Russian Empire.
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